I run stock springs in my double barrels and that helps big time with keeping ride height normal with all the flex still. I also run overdrive up front with wheel weights. Makes a huge difference
The reason why tread direction is import is self cleaning during wheel spin. If you reverse the tire, they may grab better initially, but only until the treads pack with mud. When oriented correctly, there is a path for mud to evacuate. This probably isn’t important for RC scale, but is for full scale rigs.
@@UpperLeftRC - you’re welcome! I just really wanted to comment on some obscure reference you made in the video, so that you knew I was paying attention.
I wonder if a strap of some sort down the center of the front axle would help limit some travel of the complete axle but allow the shocks to flex to their full ends on each side.
I don’t know if you run shocks without the springs. But, some run with what they call a full droop and you get much better lower center of gravity with a full droop , you get your full flex still😊
Try different rubber bands. They work as limiting straps. Different lengths wrapped around frame and axle work better at limiting upwards suspension travel.
This was a nice little video. Nice to see new content in here. May I suggest a little faster building play speed or maybe partial cutaway? I found myself skipping forward on that part. Just a viewer recommendation. I'm excited to see more of that kind of content from you though!
I really appreciate the friendly feedback! I look forward to making more content, my goal is to post a video a day and tips like this really help so thank you! :)
Make sure you’re using the Very Low Pressure springs included, but mine does that too. Seems like maybe a shock limiting strap down the center to the axle might help. I may just run them in the back, then I can trick out two of my cars.
Just bought a kit of the kinetics right now. Mainly for when I do the rock bouncer conversion. I’ll test them out on the deadbolt like you did and play with different spring setups and mounting points.
Awesome, you going to do a video review of them as well? I think people would really like to see it, I get questions all the time about them and some other peoples perspective on them would be cool 😄👍🏻 but if not then that’s fine too lol
@@UpperLeftRC I do plan on doing a video with them. I’ll be taking it out on the rocks for this video and not just trying to climb a piece of plywood in my basement haha.
Seems like a lil Weight distribution or even just a couple stick on lead weights they use on real car tires up on the chassis over the axle or alil further forward of the front axle would help that a lot
Have you tried installing the double barrel on the rear and keeping thw front shock stock. Im guessing that will prevent it from toppling when climbing.
Just throw some fishing string from the frame to the center of the axle. It’ll stop the exile from getting too far away from the frame but allow the axle to articulate all the same
Havnt even watched the video yet but I saw the Washington logo and had to sub! Now as I'm watching I already have the double barrels and honestly there kinda impossible to get any flex outa them without the springs. Mine showed up damaged without the springs
I found mine on eBay, it’s a great resource for finding stuff for these trucks right now because they are so popular that parts are hard to find right now
Why don't you angle the shocks like most other people do? Yours are vertical with the tires I see mods that angle the shocks (even stock ones) and it makes a huge difference.
I had the same issue with the Double barrels I bought. They would stick or bind in the extended position. Never thought about being because the wheels don’t roll. I thought all around the stock shocks handled much better. My Double barrels are now sitting in the parts bin. What size is your course?
Broski flip the shocks upside take springs off . Ur welcome 😉 Also if u do this and u get any body rub because ur running bigger tires get spacers and cut/trim body a little in wheel wells .
I wonder if you have to grease/oil the shocks so that it adapts to the terrain. I have yet to try it but I notice the barrels and shaft do not compress all the time from the metal grinding into each other.
@@justinwood61 I bought 2 sets of the hot racing and was sent one wrong set but the seller just sent me just the adapter I’m sure if you message kinetic thru ebay they can sell you just the adapters and save you from buying another set
hey man, may i suggest the 1/18th scale panda hobby sport tetra k1? i run it as my own personal rig with a custom built body and its a solid rig, its even solid stock out the box and its true rtr
Stock is very capable, it depends on the terrain you are running on and what you want your shocks to do, I tend to think of shocks like knives, “there are different ones for different tasks” sometimes you need loose bounce shocks and sometimes you need stiff ridged shocks 👍🏻
@@calebpoole7177 seller is kinetic-kms on eBay.... Just got mine last week, sold out again, all he has left is the upgrade kit for the hot racing aluminum shocks
Yep! I don’t like double barrels either, I do know of a mod though that might help you, if you remove the inner O-ring on the top and bottom swivel mounts that slide into the eyelets on the shock itself it gives it more side to side flex, it doesn’t add any slop either. Just some food for thought 👍🏻
I run stock springs in my double barrels and that helps big time with keeping ride height normal with all the flex still. I also run overdrive up front with wheel weights. Makes a huge difference
I just commented about if this helped and it sure sounds like it cool 😎
I wonder if you used the black set if that would help?
Also running them upside down
The reason why tread direction is import is self cleaning during wheel spin. If you reverse the tire, they may grab better initially, but only until the treads pack with mud. When oriented correctly, there is a path for mud to evacuate. This probably isn’t important for RC scale, but is for full scale rigs.
I appreciate the info! 😎👍🏻
@@UpperLeftRC - you’re welcome! I just really wanted to comment on some obscure reference you made in the video, so that you knew I was paying attention.
@@FJAdventurer 😂
I wonder if a strap of some sort down the center of the front axle would help limit some travel of the complete axle but allow the shocks to flex to their full ends on each side.
I don’t know if you run shocks without the springs. But, some run with what they call a full droop and you get much better lower center of gravity with a full droop , you get your full flex still😊
Try different rubber bands. They work as limiting straps. Different lengths wrapped around frame and axle work better at limiting upwards suspension travel.
This was a nice little video. Nice to see new content in here. May I suggest a little faster building play speed or maybe partial cutaway? I found myself skipping forward on that part. Just a viewer recommendation. I'm excited to see more of that kind of content from you though!
I really appreciate the friendly feedback! I look forward to making more content, my goal is to post a video a day and tips like this really help so thank you! :)
Maybe if you rig up a front limiting strap you can stop the rearing up and keep the flex...
Make sure you’re using the Very Low Pressure springs included, but mine does that too. Seems like maybe a shock limiting strap down the center to the axle might help. I may just run them in the back, then I can trick out two of my cars.
Yeah the springs on there are the softest I got and yeah running them in just the back might be a great idea!
Just bought a kit of the kinetics right now. Mainly for when I do the rock bouncer conversion. I’ll test them out on the deadbolt like you did and play with different spring setups and mounting points.
Awesome, you going to do a video review of them as well? I think people would really like to see it, I get questions all the time about them and some other peoples perspective on them would be cool 😄👍🏻 but if not then that’s fine too lol
@@UpperLeftRC I do plan on doing a video with them. I’ll be taking it out on the rocks for this video and not just trying to climb a piece of plywood in my basement haha.
Seems like a lil Weight distribution or even just a couple stick on lead weights they use on real car tires up on the chassis over the axle or alil further forward of the front axle would help that a lot
It might help, I haven’t tried it but it’s a good idea
I have a deadbolt with some weights from wheels and sliders and it helps.
Have you tried installing the double barrel on the rear and keeping thw front shock stock. Im guessing that will prevent it from toppling when climbing.
Just throw some fishing string from the frame to the center of the axle. It’ll stop the exile from getting too far away from the frame but allow the axle to articulate all the same
I would like to see stock up front and double barrel rear.
Havnt even watched the video yet but I saw the Washington logo and had to sub! Now as I'm watching I already have the double barrels and honestly there kinda impossible to get any flex outa them without the springs. Mine showed up damaged without the springs
Dang that sucks bud, I’m sorry to hear they came to you damaged, I’m happy to have another sub from Washington 😄👍🏻
@@UpperLeftRC I live in Vancouver WA but work in Portland at Amazon 💪🏻
Anyone else wonder if the faster front gearing kit would fix alot of this as the front would be pulling faster than the rear would be pushing ?
I would like to see thoes on the c10 because its wider and its a lower šestero of gravity
I have been looking at these shocks for awhile now, I might have to get a set. They were out of stock last time I looked.
I found mine on eBay, it’s a great resource for finding stuff for these trucks right now because they are so popular that parts are hard to find right now
So worth it in my opinion 🙌🏼
Contact him thru ebay and he will tell you when he is posting more up.
Why don't you angle the shocks like most other people do? Yours are vertical with the tires I see mods that angle the shocks (even stock ones) and it makes a huge difference.
I prefer to run the vehicles as scale as possible, angled shocks can give better articulation but I like running them like real vehicles
@UpperLeft RC The scx24 Deadbolt should be arriving later today. What do you recommend should be first on the list of upgrades for it? Thanks
Do what I did and just go full droop suspension works great
How did you do that? Remove the springs?
@@rileysvideos2059 yes then add a small amount of grease inside the shock body for rebound makes a world of difference 😁
@@rileysvideos2059 yes then add a small amount of grease inside the shock body for rebound makes a world of difference 😁
Also add a small o ring on the bottom of the shock shaft for bump stop
Would overdrive gears help, so the front is always pulling away from the rear?
Yes that would probably help a lot actually, good idea!
What kind? Im new to rc sorry
I came down here to say that
I had the same issue with the Double barrels I bought. They would stick or bind in the extended position. Never thought about being because the wheels don’t roll. I thought all around the stock shocks handled much better. My Double barrels are now sitting in the parts bin.
What size is your course?
Course is 4 foot by 6 foot 👍🏻
Broski flip the shocks upside take springs off . Ur welcome 😉
Also if u do this and u get any body rub because ur running bigger tires get spacers and cut/trim body a little in wheel wells .
So, good or bad ? Add some weight on the front end. The stock shocks suck.
If you do the relocation of the tops of the shocks it stops that from happening
I wonder if you have to grease/oil the shocks so that it adapts to the terrain. I have yet to try it but I notice the barrels and shaft do not compress all the time from the metal grinding into each other.
Great video something to consider
Thank you for the video! Really helped me make a decision b4 spending money on them!
No problem 😄👍🏻
P.s you have a new sub!:)
I have these shocks and just got the adapter to make the hot racing double barrel
Nice! I really enjoy using them for some crawls but everyday running I prefer the normal set :)
Where did you get the adapters?
@@justinwood61 I bought 2 sets of the hot racing and was sent one wrong set but the seller just sent me just the adapter I’m sure if you message kinetic thru ebay they can sell you just the adapters and save you from buying another set
wow this was very helpful and entertaining im going to sub
Thank you 😄 I appreciate the support 👍🏻
If you move the mounting points to the frame how does it respond?
Use magnets to help with the ride. I love these shocks especually the long travel.
how are you using magnets?
@@William-McCueRC ihave videos showing how magnets help as suspension limiters on my scx24.
@@kepikiwi which video is it ?
I am confused as to what the worm gear has to do with the suspension?
worm gears limit torque twist. here with these shocks, torque twist might actually be helpful to settle the shocks back down.
Great video 😄👍😀
Thank you!
Nice review 🤙
I want make a little bit similar track for my c10. What material you use on your track?
Expanding spray foam, I have a couple build series videos on it if you are interested 👍🏻
@@UpperLeftRC can you send here a link on the video. You have so much videos 😆
Have you tried pulling the brake plug out of the esc to let the wheels free roll?
No I haven’t, but I think the worm gears won’t allow it to free roll very good anyways
How do you change the springs???
The kit came with the longer springs
Do you happen to know the name of the eBay seller I can’t seem to find them online right now :/
( kinetic-kms ) was the seller I got mine from 👍🏻
Nor I.....
Where can I find those shocks along with the barrel extensions?
EBay 20-25$
Yep, that's thy I don't do the double barrels.
Change ur spring mounting points
hey man, may i suggest the 1/18th scale panda hobby sport tetra k1? i run it as my own personal rig with a custom built body and its a solid rig, its even solid stock out the box and its true rtr
I’ll have to check it out, where is a good place to purchase one at a good price?
i got mine at a hobby shop in texas but you can get em on amain hobbies for about 120-150 usd
I’ve bought two different sets of shocks and neither have been as capable as stock. To stiff..
Stock is very capable, it depends on the terrain you are running on and what you want your shocks to do, I tend to think of shocks like knives, “there are different ones for different tasks” sometimes you need loose bounce shocks and sometimes you need stiff ridged shocks 👍🏻
Where do I get them I can’t find them on eBay or any where
I got them on eBay about 4 months ago and they run out of stock pretty quick, just keep an eye out and they should get more soon
@@UpperLeftRC but nothing comes up
@@calebpoole7177 seller is kinetic-kms on eBay.... Just got mine last week, sold out again, all he has left is the upgrade kit for the hot racing aluminum shocks
Relocated them try it
Hi
Hi there :)
My double barrels suck no flex at all
Yep! I don’t like double barrels either, I do know of a mod though that might help you, if you remove the inner O-ring on the top and bottom swivel mounts that slide into the eyelets on the shock itself it gives it more side to side flex, it doesn’t add any slop either. Just some food for thought 👍🏻
Yeah those things suck.