I had this issue recently and watched your video for inspiration. I spent two days trying the ratchet strap thing you did, only to find that I was working harder, not smarter. There are two mounting blocks with hex screws on the outside frame of the mower. Take both of those blocks off and put the mounting bar into the brackets as they would be when installed. Take the entire thing and angle it up into the underframe of the mower and then rotate the mounting blocks back into position. Done. Not digging on you, just letting you and others know that there is a way better way of doing this.
Thank you for posting this. My deck bar had come unmoored from the frame two years ago. It took me forever to figure out what the problem was. Your ratchet strap solution did the trick to knock the bar back into place.
The issue with the leveling was pretty well explained and I do thank you for this video the only thing that I suggest is replacing The Deck bar bracket because by it cutting into that bar it was also taking away metal from the hook side of that bracket I replaced both of my deck bar brackets along with the bar and now I'm good to go I did not redrill any holes just by the new deck bracket for the bar
Great video. I have the same mower and have had exactly the same problems you have had. My deck hooks used to bounce off the rail at least 3 or 4 times a mow, what a pain. I ended up welding some flat bar stock from the front of the hook to the bottom of the bracken to enclose the hook completely. Never comes off now. I have broken the front deck rod and have had to weld it numerous times. My blades are forever spinning loose needing the nuts to be tightened down reguarly. Why they didn't put a key way on the spindle shaft and a groove in the blade is beyound me. I suppose you get what you pay for,.
On my Toro Z4200 there is no need to bend the bar to put it back in the frame end pieces. Both end piece is bolted on with 13mm wrenched bolt. Easy to remove and reinstall the bar ends.
i have a Toro z4235. Your deck is as catawampus as mine is. I have concluded that it is impossible to level the deck by looking at the front or even measuring the deck height from the ground. My theory is with the deck removed and with the underside up examine your blades. You need to look at two things. Look to see that the are blades straight, the tips match at the middle and last that a straight edge or string from outboard blade tips with inboard tips almost touching shows that the blades are in the same plane left to right. I am still trying to determine alignment front to back. If the blade spindle shafts are tilted is is suggested to you bring them back by beating the deck with a sledge hammer. I have found that adding washes between the deck and spindle housings allow a more precise adjustment. Before you remount the deck cut some 2x4 to make a 3" blocks up or cut a 4x4 for 3.5 inch blocks. Move the mover to a flat area as you have. Mount the deck without mounting the drive belt. Raise the deck as high as you can and place the block beneath the mower deck. Lower the deck height lever to 3 or 3.5 inches so that the blocks (2 for each blade) are beneath the blades just to either side of the mounting bolt blade bracket. Loosen the hanger brackets and let the deck settle settle evenly on the blocks. Making sure that both left and right rear hangers are resting on the hanger rod tighten the. Your deck should be leveled left to right.
The easiest way to get that bar in or out is to unscrew the side bracket first. By doing it like you did it may be bent somewhat permanently. One thing i hate about these mowers is the low quality steel parts that wear out way too fast and the sharp edges that seem to saw through the part next to it.
I inherited the same model Toro. One of the deck mount brackets was rusted right off of the deck. I had a guy from work take it home and weld it. I bought new brackets and rehung the deck. It's lopsided too, maybe by 3" or so. I need to get after that and get it fixed. So far besides having the deck repaired, I've added no flat tires to the front, new solenoid, new carb, new blades, new coils. Purged out all of the e85 gas and use only ethanol free gas now ( Marine gas at a local station ). The anti scalp wheel just flop around in their holes. She runs great, but still a little ways to go. Question for you, at 18:45, why did the deck react and bounce like that when you engaged the PTO?
I believe the deck jumped because the belt had to “find its sweet spot”? Maybe after setting a belt it has to spin to find the place of least resistance? It’s running fine now. I’ve been checking out new mowers, those suckers added $500 onto the cost of them now!
@@oxford821 wrangling without success. now I have to buy a special torque wrench to get the pivot blocks out. Sadly the ratchet strap couldn't quite fix it for me. I have bruises all up my arms. Surprised you didn't swear more in the video!
Holee fuke!! How did that U shaped bar not bend on that left side (in normal mower use) where it was worn through so bad?? I've had that U shaped bar pop out of the holder bracket once or twice on my Toro SW5000 when I hit something hard. I found that a NICE SIZED pry bar was very useful to bend it back so I could get that loose end back into the holder bracket. Seriously though, this guy should have taken the opportunity to at least do some cleaning by blowing it off with compressed air and then pressure washing it, while he had it all torn apart!!! One last comment, I think that the locating arm that goes into the bracket on the front of the deck is attached to the WRONG side of the deck. I believe it should've come in from the left side, not the right hand side, but I could be wrong myself....
getting the deck hanger bar into the two blocks with holes is just an example of bad design. I do not have an easy solution for that. however if you just take one cotter pin out of the front deck hanger bar, the whole deck will lift off without undoing those rear cotter pins. they could have provided slots to slide the blocks onto the deck hanger bar without prying it before bolting the blocks on..
That seems to me to be a design flaw with that bar being worn like that. Mine is doing the same thing. Toro ought to have a recall on that issue. I'm pretty sure they won't cause by the time it happens your warranty has run out. It's a darn shame these manufacturers don't take pride in their products now a days. Heck, they want it to break down so they can make more money off of you.
The reason for that brake is so you dont burn out your hydros. I hear hydro's cost 2000$ a peice. I would proceed to continue to put that brake on there.
@@wadebarnes6720 That’s great! I’ve been looking at the Toro “my ride” lately. My wife and I have been bounced to wear our breath gets taken while cutting at the farm. Money is a big factor but I can’t decide between the Timecutter, Titan, or a 2000 series? I want a 48” deck so I can still load in my pickup truck
@@oxford821 I know when I see people on here talking about them they're a whole lot higher than what it costs down here I bought a 52 inch or 54 with my ride well under $4,000 don't get me wrong that's the most I have ever paid for a lawn mower that's more than I ever paid for a car but it is awesome four you're back
We have the same hair, same beard, same mower, and same troubles with it. You CAN get those switches in and out without taking anything off, you just gotta cuss real loud a little.
You’d think having the whole thing taken apart you would clean the damn thing… just to make it easier for YOU to repair?!? You work like a UAW MILLWRIGHT…😔
Some people bearly have time to make the repairs and here you want him to spend more time cleaning it pshhh you must work with gloves when you replace light bulbs
Love this guy. He does things just Like I would! brute strength! grass and crap everywhere! lol
You SIR, have earned yourself a pinned comment!!! Thanks and right on!
I had this issue recently and watched your video for inspiration. I spent two days trying the ratchet strap thing you did, only to find that I was working harder, not smarter. There are two mounting blocks with hex screws on the outside frame of the mower. Take both of those blocks off and put the mounting bar into the brackets as they would be when installed. Take the entire thing and angle it up into the underframe of the mower and then rotate the mounting blocks back into position. Done. Not digging on you, just letting you and others know that there is a way better way of doing this.
Right on! Thanks for the help!
Thank you for posting this. My deck bar had come unmoored from the frame two years ago. It took me forever to figure out what the problem was. Your ratchet strap solution did the trick to knock the bar back into place.
Holy smokes, right on!!!
The issue with the leveling was pretty well explained and I do thank you for this video the only thing that I suggest is replacing The Deck bar bracket because by it cutting into that bar it was also taking away metal from the hook side of that bracket I replaced both of my deck bar brackets along with the bar and now I'm good to go I did not redrill any holes just by the new deck bracket for the bar
Your definitely correct. Thanks for watching !
@@oxford821 no problem
Man You can fix everything, I have problem with the blade some times don't Stared maybe the
Clouch ah.
Did you check the air pressure in the left rear? Low pressure changes the front wheels height big time. Its Nascar style mowing.
They’re probably low, I might need new ones
Great video. I have the same mower and have had exactly the same problems you have had. My deck hooks used to bounce off the rail at least 3 or 4 times a mow, what a pain. I ended up welding some flat bar stock from the front of the hook to the bottom of the bracken to enclose the hook completely. Never comes off now. I have broken the front deck rod and have had to weld it numerous times. My blades are forever spinning loose needing the nuts to be tightened down reguarly. Why they didn't put a key way on the spindle shaft and a groove in the blade is beyound me. I suppose you get what you pay for,.
Sounds like you can fix the deficiencies. Definitely got what we paid for!
On my Toro Z4200 there is no need to bend the bar to put it back in the frame end pieces. Both end piece is bolted on with 13mm wrenched bolt. Easy to remove and reinstall the bar ends.
Thanks, I should’ve looked at it better!
i have a Toro z4235. Your deck is as catawampus as mine is. I have concluded that it is impossible to level the deck by looking at the front or even measuring the deck height from the ground.
My theory is with the deck removed and with the underside up examine your blades. You need to look at two things. Look to see that the are blades straight, the tips match at the middle and last that a straight edge or string from outboard blade tips with inboard tips almost touching shows that the blades are in the same plane left to right. I am still trying to determine alignment front to back. If the blade spindle shafts are tilted is is suggested to you bring them back by beating the deck with a sledge hammer. I have found that adding washes between the deck and spindle housings allow a more precise adjustment.
Before you remount the deck cut some 2x4 to make a 3" blocks up or cut a 4x4 for 3.5 inch blocks. Move the mover to a flat area as you have. Mount the deck without mounting the drive belt. Raise the deck as high as you can and place the block beneath the mower deck. Lower the deck height lever to 3 or 3.5 inches so that the blocks (2 for each blade) are beneath the blades just to either side of the mounting bolt blade bracket. Loosen the hanger brackets and let the deck settle settle evenly on the blocks. Making sure that both left and right rear hangers are resting on the hanger rod tighten the. Your deck should be leveled left to right.
Very good advice, thanks!
Part name or number for the bar? I cant find it
Hey man. You rake leaves like I do. Good luck hunting Saturday
It never ends!! Thanks, it’s a snow blizzard here. Can barely see 100 yards across the fields!
The easiest way to get that bar in or out is to unscrew the side bracket first. By doing it like you did it may be bent somewhat permanently.
One thing i hate about these mowers is the low quality steel parts that wear out way too fast and the sharp edges that seem to saw through the part next to it.
Good info thanks, yes they should use better steel
Great video sir! I have same mower and same problem. I do need to order that cross bar. Could you supply toro part number please?
Thank you
Thanks, just go onto Toro web site. They have a parts link. Just need your model number
That exciment when things fall in place 😂 i get it
Definitely. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video my friend. Amazing how worn down that rod was. Just curious though, how many hours did rhe mower have at repair?
It’s an older model, doesn’t have an hour meter. It’s at least 10 years old???
I inherited the same model Toro. One of the deck mount brackets was rusted right off of the deck. I had a guy from work take it home and weld it. I bought new brackets and rehung the deck. It's lopsided too, maybe by 3" or so. I need to get after that and get it fixed. So far besides having the deck repaired, I've added no flat tires to the front, new solenoid, new carb, new blades, new coils. Purged out all of the e85 gas and use only ethanol free gas now ( Marine gas at a local station ). The anti scalp wheel just flop around in their holes. She runs great, but still a little ways to go. Question for you, at 18:45, why did the deck react and bounce like that when you engaged the PTO?
I believe the deck jumped because the belt had to “find its sweet spot”? Maybe after setting a belt it has to spin to find the place of least resistance? It’s running fine now. I’ve been checking out new mowers, those suckers added $500 onto the cost of them now!
@@oxford821 Thanks for the response brother.
@@matteliano454 NP!
Where did you order deck bar from
I think I went to Toro’s website. There’s a link to parts. You’ll need the model number. A parts diagram will have a number to “add to cart”
these hanger bars are a royal pain in the behind. just spent 3 hours wrangling mine.
You can do it!
@@oxford821 wrangling without success. now I have to buy a special torque wrench to get the pivot blocks out. Sadly the ratchet strap couldn't quite fix it for me. I have bruises all up my arms. Surprised you didn't swear more in the video!
Hollywood magic! Good luck
You have to take the black clips off and side them back and then put the bar in .
It's 2 years later. Did that solve your problems?
Yes, I have since sold that mower
The front sway bar is in backwards and is cocking rhe deck towards that one hanger on the left.
I’m going check it out, thanks
Holee fuke!! How did that U shaped bar not bend on that left side (in normal mower use) where it was worn through so bad?? I've had that U shaped bar pop out of the holder bracket once or twice on my Toro SW5000 when I hit something hard. I found that a NICE SIZED pry bar was very useful to bend it back so I could get that loose end back into the holder bracket. Seriously though, this guy should have taken the opportunity to at least do some cleaning by blowing it off with compressed air and then pressure washing it, while he had it all torn apart!!! One last comment, I think that the locating arm that goes into the bracket on the front of the deck is attached to the WRONG side of the deck. I believe it should've come in from the left side, not the right hand side, but I could be wrong myself....
Thanks for the input, I’m no pro, just trying to keep things running !
What year is your mower, and did you purchase it new? Good information and a job well done.
I think I’ve had it for around 10 years. I did buy it knew from Home Depot. Thanks for the comment!
getting the deck hanger bar into the two blocks with holes is just an example of bad design. I do not have an easy solution for that. however if you just take one cotter pin out of the front deck hanger bar, the whole deck will lift off without undoing those rear cotter pins.
they could have provided slots to slide the blocks onto the deck hanger bar without prying it before bolting the blocks on..
The slots would be nice. I had to take the rear pins out to get the two hangers off the old rod. Thanks for watching
That seems to me to be a design flaw with that bar being worn like that. Mine is doing the same thing. Toro ought to have a recall on that issue. I'm pretty sure they won't cause by the time it happens your warranty has run out. It's a darn shame these manufacturers don't take pride in their products now a days. Heck, they want it to break down so they can make more money off of you.
Yea, there’s no suspension system, every bump bounces the deck on the bar
The reason for that brake is so you dont burn out your hydros. I hear hydro's cost 2000$ a peice. I would proceed to continue to put that brake on there.
Thanks
Dude you are king
I accept your compliment!
bros mower is drunk looking that lob sided
She cut some stuff over the years!
If you remove the mounts for the hanger rod you don't need to any bending. Took me 20 min. if that.
Right on!
wow - that rods eaten through - + I didn't realize there was 2 mounts @ the front - duh
Yea, the bouncing and vibration worn it down
What moved so much you had to do all that
The one side was worn down so much the deck was scalping and ready to break off.
@@oxford821 how many years did you have the lawn mower before you had to do that
@@oxford821 I bought one of with the ride seat and got a really bad back and it really helps the best lawn mower yet so far that I ever had
@@wadebarnes6720 That’s great! I’ve been looking at the Toro “my ride” lately. My wife and I have been bounced to wear our breath gets taken while cutting at the farm. Money is a big factor but I can’t decide between the Timecutter, Titan, or a 2000 series? I want a 48” deck so I can still load in my pickup truck
@@oxford821 I know when I see people on here talking about them they're a whole lot higher than what it costs down here I bought a 52 inch or 54 with my ride well under $4,000 don't get me wrong that's the most I have ever paid for a lawn mower that's more than I ever paid for a car but it is awesome four you're back
RATCHET STRAP REQUIRED TO COMPRESS THE NEW BAR
I slid it over until it fell into position
Thank You !!
NP!
We have the same hair, same beard, same mower, and same troubles with it. You CAN get those switches in and out without taking anything off, you just gotta cuss real loud a little.
Right on!!
Great job but its not level
Yea, it’s still off a little
That poor deck needs CLEANED!! Cost too much to replace the deck
Yes!
You’d think having the whole thing taken apart you would clean the damn thing… just to make it easier for YOU to repair?!?
You work like a UAW MILLWRIGHT…😔
Yea that was next on my list, don’t forget to subscribe!
Some people bearly have time to make the repairs and here you want him to spend more time cleaning it pshhh you must work with gloves when you replace light bulbs
Timecutter ss5000 really sux.
Mine works fine so far
@oxford821 what do they call that bar I need one for mine and can't find one
I went to Toro’s parts web page. Using the correct model number, you will see a parts diagram. Easy to order from there.
@oxford821 ok cool thank