Rock auto is THE best place for car parts, seriously. They ship basically within the hour, and it arrives here in Canada WAY before parts I've ordered from Ontario to Alberta.
@@notsevenfeettall dang that sucks. I’ve had good luck but I haven’t ordered any electrical parts. Just brakes, shocks and something else. Feel like it has to be worth the price with shipping to order. Ordered rear shocks on my dad’s truck for $90 shipped. Oreilys, advanced and autozone wanted $90 for one. It was same part number as autozone. I’ll probably stay away from them for electrical components.
@@marshallmann2171 parts below, around $600-$800 bucks, but I think most people doing this already have most of the tools needed. You don’t need the Milwaukee impact wrench though, a ratchet/socket set and a breaker bar will do just fine. They’re charging $700 for rear brakes, fronts can’t be too far behind, there goes another $700. Now you also have tools to do small jobs, fluid changes, oil pan, calipers, shocks, etc. -Milwaukee impact wrench $350 (home depot /online) -3 ton Jack $180 (HarborFreight) -torque wrench $25 (HarborFreight) -sockets $30-$100 (shop around) -Jack stands $30 (northern tool)
1a auto is way better. They're as cheap and I've never had a wrong part shipped. My last order was for plugs,wires and coils which is about 600+ at the parts store came in at 200 at 1a. But that's my opinion I guess
@@CaptinJack2 The parking brakes clamp onto the rotors locking them up, making it almost impossible to remove. Unless you’re a stubborn dummy like me, in which case you will be severely dehydrated.
@@ibake84 Good question. I don’t know since I don’t have any but I suspect you’d have to lift one wheel at a time while securing the other three really well.
There are certain fasteners where the torque spec is very important and others where they just have to be tight enough not to fall off and not tight enough to damage the threads, those are tight enough not to fall off kind, I do however like to use blue locktite on my brake jobs especially if they had locktite from the factory
and when you have a $300 milwaukee fuel setup lol. No elbow grease needed. Had a honda crank bolt stuck. 1 inch breaker bar setup couldnt get it off with 2 people. Tore the holding tool slot right off. Went to home depot and paid $500 for a m18 fuel with a 8ah and the sucker came loose in less than 3 seconds with a heavy socket.
Yea I live in New England and only drive 99 Outbacks. My last one was so rusty that everything was a bitch to work on. My new one is pretty clean so I’m happy
Well, the us on Toyota is the rotors invariably have threaded holes in the face. 2 bolts, a little elbow grease and rotors off. As long as the caliper piston pushes in easily and the piston seals are good, boom!
I love to see people learn how to work on their own cars, so long as it's done correctly. Basic maintenance isn't that hard to do if you have a repair manual and RUclips.
Learning this after a shop wanted $800 for a coolant blow out in my 97 Z3. Luckily a car buddy said "lemme take a look" a $10 coolant flange. A $12 clamp. $50 of coolant later. A few small spaces climbed in and a few cuss words uttered and im back on the road. Truly love the exposure to "big boy Legos" as I call working on cars.
These days manufacturers are making things much hated to DIY on jobs that used to be fairly easily done in your driveway!!! I was told a few years ago that on Ford F series trucks 2016 or newer, when you do a brake job just like that one in the video, you have to break the bleeder valve loose before compressing the calipers or you’ll screw up the ABS system and you’ll have to pay the dealership several hundred dollars to “un-screw” it; not to mention having to pay a towing bill to get it to the dealership!!!
@@AzzKicker-bz1cb it isn't just the Ford trucks, it is any vehicle with an anti~lock brakes. In some instances pressing the piston in on a caliper can possibly mess the ABS pump up. Just wait until you see the bill for engine jobs on the big Ford and GM trucks, the entire cab has to come off to work on them.
No, Asian parents supervise. Watch you make a mistake, say nothing until a few steps after. Then chide you. It's so annoying that I never let my old man watch me work.
And they go extremely cheap on the parts for their profit margin Rather put that on the quality of my parts than on their pocket Dealerships are you blatant thieves
Tbh 250 in labor isint that far off from what I'd expect at a dealership or the like. I wouldn't take it to them cause I can do it myself, but that's about 1.5 hours in labor in my area
@@floppybeefcurtains7679 yep, there are some good mechanics out there that do good work and then there are those ones that are lazy and do shotty work but any day I can do my own repairs, is a good day.
@@jamiel3504 a lot of them dont start that way, but feel the pressure of deadlines from customers and the shop. So they opt for shortcuts on cars instead of doing things right.
How do you DIY with blood tests or with the doctor? I have trust issues too like when they ask my history or parental history of this or that. I’m like any issue should show up in results without me needing to disclose history, but if I say I have a history of this & that, then they might return & say we found this & that in you. Off topic, sorry, but the trust issue thing got me thinking.
Brakes are one of those intimidating jobs that are actually quite easy to do, especially if you’re not working on old rusted parts. When that happens, it can become a pita, but the job itself is not complicated to do.
@@thememebean1073 A ratchet is a ratchet, it’s not a type of wrench, but an internally-toothed rotating mechanism on some wrenches. What some people call a ratchet is actually a socket wrench, which generally has a ratcheting mechanism. There are also ratcheting box-end wrenches and ratcheting screwdrivers. So I’d say technically, a ratchet is a feature on some wrenches, but it’s not a type of wrench because those wrenches are also available without a ratcheting mechanism. For instance, you have a box-end wrench (a wrench with a circular end versus the open-end wrench as seen in this emoji 🔧). Whether it has a ratcheting mechanism or not, the tool name is still box-end wrench, but it can also be called a ratcheting box-end wrench or non-ratcheting (regular) box-end wrench to specify between the two. So in the case of torque wrenches, which are a specialty type of socket wrench, there are the beam-type and the click-type. The click-type, as seen in the video, I suppose does have a ratcheting mechanism because you can reverse the direction of the wrench without also moving the socket in reverse, but that’s not considered a primary feature of the click-type torque wrench like it is on other wrenches so it wouldn’t be called a ratcheting torque wrench. Sorry for the long explanation. I just wanted to make sure I properly explained it so hopefully you’ll understand what I’m trying to say.
@@LuckyCharms777 I ain’t reading all that but since you put in the effort I shall change the mistake I always called it a torque ratchet at work and never got told differently
@@thememebean1073 Well if you choose to remain ignorant so be it. You asked a question, I attempted to educate you, but if you prefer to not take advantage of learning from others people knowledge, then you get to stay dumb. Good luck with your torque ratchet. I have a feeling you’ll be stuck in that job for a long time.
ASE master tech here. I love seeing DIY people doing mechanical work on their car while using a torque wrench. Plus the fact you properly cleaned and lubed everything before assembly is great too. The only things I would suggest that you didn’t mention is cleaning the old grease from the caliper bracket where the slides go in since the old grease likes to get caked up after a while and when you compress the caliper piston/pistons back in crack open the blender valve first to let the old cooked fluid out of the calipers so new fluid replaces it when you pump up the brakes (I typically attach a little tube on top of the blender and put the junk fluid in a empty oil container). Still, you did better than many other “professional” mechanics I wave worked with over the years.
Lol ya I want to see him extract a froze guide pin that has rusted! I love how people make these videos with false hope. Not everyone owns tools let alone a jack or 1/2 damn impact lmao. Plus some don't even know where to jack a car from!
@@thesarcasticgenius3986 yea but people making mistakes is how they learn. If us pros talk down to the people out there trying then they will not end up learning anything. I want to see more people involved with their car repairs (or any repairs to be frank) and I would love to see more pros be helpful instead of condescending and ignorant. Now I’m not saying I don’t enjoy a little bit of schadenfreude when a certain type of person that doesn’t know better does something dumb with their car. I just don’t think we should treat everyone that decides to take on their brake repairs like that.
@Jay ThatGuyYouKnow I hear that. But there is another thing that I seen in my time is, that not everyone has the the gifts to even do a simple oil change. Ya I know sounds crazy and far fetched but some people just cannot be taught. Plus again tools! And how to use them. Utube does not show u everything. I tell people all the time if u have doubts don't do it. Makes no sense to mess it up then pay extra to get it fixed right. Know ur abilities and limits!
Bedding brakes is really only necessary for race/high performance pads. Recently replaced my rotors and pads with Centric (OEM for StopTech) and they say its not needed.
So I still do a bedding in process for new pads. However, I have found it's not necessary for pure street duty. Even brand new pads will lock up the tires and you can only brake so hard as to kick on abs. As for warping rotors, I've found what does that more often is heating the rotors up and then parking it with the parking brake on right, or doing heavy braking multiple times and then just sitting there holding the brakes. Basically doing things that heat up the rotors more than normal, and then leaving the pads firmly pressed into the rotor, not allowing for an even heat dissipation. A good example is braking down a long hill and sitting at a light for 5 minutes. I'm sure there are other ways but that's what I have found warps rotors most often
@@LOWZZ33 ya but they take advantage of people’s lack of knowledge as to what the problem really is. I’ve heard so many stories about little old ladies coming in complaining about their breaks. Mechanic finds a coffee mug lodged under the pedal and charges them for a full replacement.
Don't forget to check the brake fluid reservoir. When you wound the caliper back, if someone has ever topped up brake fluid when pads were thinner, the system may need some fluid extraction.
I never push the fluid back into the reservoir. I always open the bleeder and let the fluid out there. A lot less messy, and minimizes the risk of the seals in the master cylinder getting damaged.
I usually recommend a brake fluid exchange with a brake job so I just leave it a little low after so it doesn’t over flow my shop gives a better warranty on out brakes if u get a fluid exchange with the brake job that’s why I always recommend them
@Will Swingem definitely not a silly idea considering how often brake fluid is overlooked. I'd say theres a fair few vehicles driving round on original fluid thats only ever been topped up when its gotten low.
@@Vikingxbwell had a caprice once and did some mountain driving when the oil began cooking we had extremly brake fade and needed to pump twice before it braked 😂... but that just an american car. Also had this with a vw golf 2. When i reached 50mph and brake it brake til 20mph and then it didnt brake anymore. When i had a toyota starlet p7 from 1986 and brake it from 60 mph it did brake till 0 mph. Thats why the rest is crap
Yep, pop the cap off and giggle while it runs out thinking "dumbass Mr fix it here seen his brake light and added fluid........why does it need fluid......is something getting smaller.....wearing down if you will, and it's not fluid but pads you need" 😂😊
Yeah this Friday just passed I just went and paid $100 for a diagnostic test because I had a power steering leak they found the problem and said it will be $1,600 to repair my steering box. First off it's a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 it doesn't take long to repair why so high. And why so high for a diagnostic test when it didn't really tell me nothing else going on with my vehicle.
We don’t upgrade them for 700 either just replace them with oem parts shit ya pay 200-1000$ or more for repairs and when we don’t have a part in stock guess where we get it from autozone, orilly, advanced, Napa etc you get the memo, dealerships are the biggest scam but thanks to those who don’t know shit about cars we make hella money
@@bmo14laxbro threw in the ….. that means he thinks he smarter and you have to be dumb to never have read the torque wrench manual like his daddy made him
@@tylercecil5634 *breaks* - "brakes" are what the video is demonstrating secondly, his advise not to yank on the torque wrench isn't because you'll snap the bolt.. it's because your torque won't be accurate when not using the tool correctly.. If you're going to use a torque wrench, why not employ proper use of the tool?
Yeah, while i was out of town, the brakes were needing done on my caravan. They wanted 1500 to replace all of it & flush the fluid. They lasted long enough for me to do it myself. Saved right at 1000 bucks!
Pardon me, but you shouldn’t jerk on the torque wrench because it won’t be accurate. Just pull smoothly until it beeps or snaps, depending on the kind you have. Good job, my friend.
It doesn't hurt to wipe them but in actuality the brake cleaner will disolve the oils on the new rotors & as the cleaner runs off the grease & oils will go with it. So no you really don't need to wipe them. Just use enough cleaner for it to run off and take the bad stuff with it.
I’ve paid that $700 before, simply because I lived in a city and didn’t really have a place to work. Now that I have a garage I’ll be doing this myself. Thank you for the CONCISE video. Lots of videos like this go on for half an hour.
I’m a service advisor at a BMW repair shop, and I can attest that no brake job is under $1,000 at our shop. So yeah, that dude should get trade that BMW for a Honda.
BMW was charging me $1200 to replace the brake line clip for hand brake. It’s located underneath the car, above drive shaft. 🤦🏻♂️ Ended up replacing it myself for the cost of the part, $22. All I’ve read on BMWs is that every trip to the deal is at least $1000.
Right I work for a GMC dealership and don’t get me wrong. I gotta make my paycheck but I really hate whenever I give people a quote for front and rear brakes with new rotors and it’s almost $1500. I’m sorry but that is incredibly unrealistic and the response I get from my boss is “ we’re just trying to be competitive with the other places around town” Go f!ck yourself if I didn’t have a warranty I wouldn’t be coming to you. And that’s from a person who works for the dealership! 🙄
that's what I thought when he mentioned total price. for a truck the brake pads you should use are ceramic and alone cost 40$ or more, and rotors 110$ or more.
Bs😂😂😂 a quailty set of rotors and pads are at least 400+... this is aint no TRQ a1 auto bs but go ahead and buy that all in one kit nd be mad them shit squeak or vibrations still happening
I have a 2005 Pilot. Amazon Prices as of 04/15/23: ACDelco Silver 18A1312A Rear Rotors = $25.90 ea. Raybestos Element3 Pads 865H $27.21 Or Wagner QuickStop ZD865 Pads = $22.93 Total in parts $74.73-$79.01+tax These aren't Bendix or Detroit Axle parts either. If you go to your local AutoZone, I would pay ~$280+tax on their Duralast brand of parts. It is realistic if you shop around before you need to do the job. The rear brakes for the model year of my vehicle. To me it looked like he was doing the rears only.
This isnt a race car any basic rotors and pads will be fine and cheap for my vehicle and I just looked $45 each for rotors and $42 for 2 sets of pads so if you know math thats $264 for all 4 brand new and it will work perfectly fine
Always clean uncoated rotors before install. But you never ever use brake clean on new coated rotors. That coating is made to be removed by the pads and if you hit it with brake clean it breaks it down and will not be removed correctly which can cause squealing.
You are totally wrong about that. Always clean them with brake cleaner. The coating is not meant to be removed by the pads. Where the hell did you hear that? That's absurd.
@@jeffriedstraoh yeah like the brake pads rubbing on the rotor aren't going to take the coating off but brake clean does according to you right😂 no rotors have coating the only coating they have is a light film of oil to keep them from rusting during shipping and mouisture
Listen, you are both talking about a different type of coating. I specifically stated that I am not talking about rotors that are coated in oil that is meant to prevent them from rusting during shipping. Obviously you need to remove that, most shops via brake clean, and more and more switching to dish soap now. I am talking about the silver, zink/aluminum coating that is baked onto the rotor during production on new rotors now. Very few have any type of oil coating on them and the baked ones 100% do not have oil on them.
Also: Toyota parts and labour have a warranty at any Toyota dealer, should there be an issue. The Toyota dealet assumes responsibility for the repairs. He screws up and kills someone, he is responsible.
@@gumps1986 huh? when winding calipers back in you should open the reservoir to pop the seal otherwise there will be too much air in the system to wind them in properly
I'm. no brake shop tech... ive done a few tho.. I've never even considered removing the hose for a job like this. wouldn't this just be more work, more chance for failure of the fitting? my standard has always been to carefully suspend the caliper out of the way.
Those rotors you actually don’t have to spray off. They have a solid coating on them to keep rust away. You will hear a grinding noise for a few miles until it wears away. There’s my little tidbit of information:)
Yeah it all just depends on what you buy, some rotors I’ve gotten have an oil coating for shipping protection, but the ones I just got for my truck came dry like you said, I still like to spray them down regardless to get any oils off that I may have gotten on from handling them.
Most if not all rotors (even painted ones) are shipped with an oil coating on them. Always a good idea to spray them anyways before putting on the tires just to get off any slide lubricants you might of gotten on them during the installation.
That must be an american thing, I have yet never seen suppliers in Germany like ATE, TRW and Bosch deliver rotors with an oil Film on them, they are always coated and ATE does the most visible one where it’s literally like gray paint on the whole thing
@@wermish6040 and completely unnecessary, tight is tight when it comes to brakes, different story if you’re doing wheel bearings, cylinder heads etc but a waste of time trying to get a torque wrench behind a hub just to torque the carrier and calliper bolts
@@MrSilk13642 every mechanic uses an impact gun to tighten wheel nuts, you’re supposed to buzz it til it clicks then tighten with a torque wrench, if he’s gunned them up too tight he’s not a very good mechanic
Twisted flex lines, calipers mounted up side down, rear brake shoes backwards. Even had one where the rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and backing plates were removed completely, the rear flex hose had vice grips pinching it shut!
@@boltsandbanter I was able to get wiper arms, headlight casings, break light casings, Sideview mirrors, lots of goodies for cheap, saves a ton of money by switching to pick n pull 😀
Even better when they have a sale. Sometimes the environmental fees stack up, and when they sneak in a warranty I never asked for. I get plenty of parts there regularly
Back in college the Toyota dealership quoted me the same for brakes on my Tacoma. That single quote got me into fixing and maintaining my own stuff Thanks Toyota! 😊
I had my brakes go out and hit a curb in my first car. Quoted 1000 bucks for a new A frame and master cyclinder, actually needed a brake line and a junk yard A frame. Fixed it myself for 70 dollars. I'll never go back to mechanic after they couldn't even get the diagnosis right. It's been 11 years since then and I've done all my own work.
About $400 in tools between M18 impact wrench, a torque wrench, sockets, etc. You can cut that down to under $100 easily, you just won't have the impact wrench. Might need a breaker bar to break loose the caliper bracket bolts.
Another tip, for a more complete job, depending on the degree of rust, remove the shims in the caliper bracket and wire wheel the shim mounting surfaces to a perfect finish. Apply some paint as you've just exposed bare metal, and install new shims. Also worth noting that the caliper piston surface which contacts the pad, as well as the opposite side of the caliper inner face must be wire wheeled and protected, in order to apply even pressure on the pads. Hope this helps, happy wrenching 🔧🧰
Just did the fronts on my tacoma yesterday. $105 for the pads from the deakership + $50 to have my rotors turned at an autoparts store. Started the job after 5pm & was done before dark, that includes an hour of waiting for the rotors to be turned. Screw dealer service centers.
If it's a newer vehicle the rotors are so thin you don't wanna turn them because they will warp. Better to just replace them and wouldn't be buying parts from a dealership that's just common sense.
@@trev119 no no no... the rotors will be fine. They only warp if you drive like an idiot. The first set of front pads lasted over 90,000 miles. This is on a 2015 , manual transmission. I barely use the brakes.
Lol 90k miles on rotors and you decide to turn them!? Dude for an extra 50 bucks you got brand new rotors and have no possibility for issues. As far as the dealer goes. They can’t be putting on aftermarket brakes or cutting rotors at 90k miles. They have to fix it so customers don’t come back complaining
There’s a reason. Everything gets cleaned, re-greased, resurfaced, new bolts, nuts, and clips sometimes. Every nook and cranny cleaned and prepped for new parts.
Here in the UK, my Ford Mondeo 2.0L TDCi failed its MoT test (Ministry of Transport Test) due to serious rot the rockers (sills) on the off-side. The garage quoted £1,400 to replace the entire part. I could buy an aftermarket part for £75 on eBay. But instead I bought a MIG welder and gas, and the necessary extras for £250. Then I acquired a load of scrap mild steel of the correct thickness from the scrap bins of a local engineering company, and taught myself to weld - badly, despite watching lots of very skilled welders who generously shared their knowledge and skills. I already had the other tools. It took me over a week to learn, beat multiple pieces of steel into all the shapes necessary to replace approximately 1/3 of the inner and outer sill. I used cereal packets to get the correct shapes of all the different elements, borrowing inspiration from the other side. The main reasons for doing it this was because the car is only worth £350, therefore it wasn’t worth spending £1,400; I couldn’t afford it anyway; I gained a new tool and a new skill (almost); and using lots of smaller pieces of free steel, instead of fitting an aftermarket part meant that I didn’t have to peel back the carpets to avoid setting the car on fire. I could have cut up an aftermarket sill, but where’s the challenge of that…?
They are that high. My daughters friend took her car to a shop and they wanted $1200 to change rotors and pads on all 4 wheels. It cost me $225 in parts to change 2 of my daughters rotors and pads on all 4 wheels.
@@kmacnumber2 that's the spirit! DIY brake jobs aren't so bad and can save tons of money, even if you buy parts off the shelf at Autozone or O'Reilly's. I got my rotors and pads on sale at Rockauto and my wallet couldn't be happier!
@@tonygregori4138 cool so maybe your dealer can teach NYC dealers a thing or two about fair pricing. I haven’t been quoted sub $500 for a brake job, ever.
That sounds about right. Toyota dealer wanted $1,200 for pads and rotors all around for my Camry. That was 20 years ago! We decided to do it ourselves.
same, never changed a brake in my life, but Honda wanted $500 to change brakes and rotors all around. Bought all the tools I needed, and brakes and rotors. Did the work myself after watching several videos. Now I have all the tools for less than what they wanted. Next I did engine oil and transmission oil myself. I find it fun and relaxing. Not sure I would do on a brand new car, but my old Honda, who cares.
Thanks to my grandfather for teaching me how to maintain a car at the sge of 13. Now that I'm an adult, it saves me so much money, plus I know what's being done to my vehicle.
“RockAuto: All the parts you’ll ever need!” And I believe it. Most of my parts for my 02 Saturn comes from that website! Foglight assemblies, electrical connections, brake kits and calipers, suspension and soon to be alternator! So far, the parts are holding up the test of time and driving.
I just got finished replacing the brakes on my Mazda 6. The shop "only" wanted $750 for both front and rear, but my wife filed that estimate under "No way, Jose!"
The thing alot of people don't understand is that the average job doesn't cost much in parts. The largest expense is the tools used for the job & the labor of the mechanic. That milwaukee M18 is $400 for the tool + battery. The jack on a low end maybe $120. The torque wrench on the low end $100. The Piston retract tool $40. Sockets and ratchet set on the low end harbor freight $50. So total investment to do ur own brakes is roughly $720. But the good news is if you buy all those tools you get to save money by doing your own work.
As a mechanic I can say he doing it properly time , Labour , parts and equipment along with warranty sound about right for $700. Form my judgement you did a better job then they probably would have
For the naysayers, $78 for the brakes and rotors at Rock Auto. That doesn’t include tax or shipping, but parts are themselves are under $100.
Rock auto is THE best place for car parts, seriously. They ship basically within the hour, and it arrives here in Canada WAY before parts I've ordered from Ontario to Alberta.
But how much moneys did all tools cost ?
@@notsevenfeettall dang that sucks. I’ve had good luck but I haven’t ordered any electrical parts. Just brakes, shocks and something else. Feel like it has to be worth the price with shipping to order. Ordered rear shocks on my dad’s truck for $90 shipped. Oreilys, advanced and autozone wanted $90 for one. It was same part number as autozone. I’ll probably stay away from them for electrical components.
@@marshallmann2171 parts below, around $600-$800 bucks, but I think most people doing this already have most of the tools needed. You don’t need the Milwaukee impact wrench though, a ratchet/socket set and a breaker bar will do just fine. They’re charging $700 for rear brakes, fronts can’t be too far behind, there goes another $700. Now you also have tools to do small jobs, fluid changes, oil pan, calipers, shocks, etc.
-Milwaukee impact wrench $350 (home depot /online)
-3 ton Jack $180 (HarborFreight)
-torque wrench $25 (HarborFreight)
-sockets $30-$100 (shop around)
-Jack stands $30 (northern tool)
1a auto is way better. They're as cheap and I've never had a wrong part shipped. My last order was for plugs,wires and coils which is about 600+ at the parts store came in at 200 at 1a. But that's my opinion I guess
Brakes and oil changes are the gateway drug into car repair.
and filling up your fuel tank is only "secondhand smoke"
You forgot about dad in the back
Then you do your timing belt and fuel injectors and intake boot and carrier bearing and suspension… well you get the point I’m addicted.
😂
@@addisonsmith3503 timing belt change is such a huge step, but really important in older cars as failure can literally total the car
Dad in the back like "Why you no doctor?"
Bruh. 💀💀💀
😅
😂😂😂😂😂
Follow up:
I say supposed to be engineer, not mechanic
Saw this at 5 am. To early for this. Read with the accent also 🤣
ROOKIE tip: Do not put on the parking/foot brakes. You’re going to have a hell of a time removing the rear rotors. I learned that the hard way. 😅😮💨
What does that mean?
@@CaptinJack2 The parking brakes clamp onto the rotors locking them up, making it almost impossible to remove. Unless you’re a stubborn dummy like me, in which case you will be severely dehydrated.
What if you have a manual trans?
@@ibake84chock the wheels.
@@ibake84 Good question. I don’t know since I don’t have any but I suspect you’d have to lift one wheel at a time while securing the other three really well.
My man used a torque wrench instead of just hammering those things home. Mad respect
😅😂😂exactly. He definitely doesn't take his vehicle to any shop.
There are certain fasteners where the torque spec is very important and others where they just have to be tight enough not to fall off and not tight enough to damage the threads, those are tight enough not to fall off kind, I do however like to use blue locktite on my brake jobs especially if they had locktite from the factory
Dad had to use both a time or two no thanx to me. 😔
No need for the mad respect when this is a normal process.
My dad is an oldschool mechanic. He laughs at me when my torque wrench beeps.
and that's how it's done when there is no rust
and when you have a $300 milwaukee fuel setup lol. No elbow grease needed. Had a honda crank bolt stuck. 1 inch breaker bar setup couldnt get it off with 2 people. Tore the holding tool slot right off. Went to home depot and paid $500 for a m18 fuel with a 8ah and the sucker came loose in less than 3 seconds with a heavy socket.
Yea I live in New England and only drive 99 Outbacks. My last one was so rusty that everything was a bitch to work on. My new one is pretty clean so I’m happy
Well, the us on Toyota is the rotors invariably have threaded holes in the face. 2 bolts, a little elbow grease and rotors off. As long as the caliper piston pushes in easily and the piston seals are good, boom!
take care of your car better then
@@DIRTY30DIESEL I could have done it with a 9.99$ harbor freight emergency road side impact. Ive ran mine off of 18v for like 10 years now.
The fact that your dad is watching you makes this even better 😂
Pops got the socks with thongs slides. 😂😂😂 Pure Supervisor mode
Micromanaging lol
I love to see people learn how to work on their own cars, so long as it's done correctly. Basic maintenance isn't that hard to do if you have a repair manual and RUclips.
A few decent tools remember 😅
Exactly 👍🏾
Learning this after a shop wanted $800 for a coolant blow out in my 97 Z3. Luckily a car buddy said "lemme take a look" a $10 coolant flange. A $12 clamp. $50 of coolant later. A few small spaces climbed in and a few cuss words uttered and im back on the road. Truly love the exposure to "big boy Legos" as I call working on cars.
These days manufacturers are making things much hated to DIY on jobs that used to be fairly easily done in your driveway!!!
I was told a few years ago that on Ford F series trucks 2016 or newer, when you do a brake job just like that one in the video, you have to break the bleeder valve loose before compressing the calipers or you’ll screw up the ABS system and you’ll have to pay the dealership several hundred dollars to “un-screw” it; not to mention having to pay a towing bill to get it to the dealership!!!
@@AzzKicker-bz1cb it isn't just the Ford trucks, it is any vehicle with an anti~lock brakes. In some instances pressing the piston in on a caliper can possibly mess the ABS pump up.
Just wait until you see the bill for engine jobs on the big Ford and GM trucks, the entire cab has to come off to work on them.
Pops was there to ensure you did everything correctly
No, Asian parents supervise. Watch you make a mistake, say nothing until a few steps after. Then chide you. It's so annoying that I never let my old man watch me work.
Definitely took you more than an hours worth of work though if this was your first time and your recording it… I mean why lie 🤷♂️
@@Gunzee Then its like "ya, i know. And i know that you knew. So why the fuck wait til i knew that you knew that i know to tell me?!"😂
@@Gunzee my dad would sit there and call me a dumb ass the moment i mess up and keep going for another 15 minutes lol. Thanks pops, im learning!
@@Maudires. yeah this is like a full days job (5-8 hours) if its your first time and lots of rust is involved
Same here. Mechanic wanted 625 to change rear calipers, rotors and pads. I did it myself for 370.
And they go extremely cheap on the parts for their profit margin
Rather put that on the quality of my parts than on their pocket
Dealerships are you blatant thieves
Tbh 250 in labor isint that far off from what I'd expect at a dealership or the like. I wouldn't take it to them cause I can do it myself, but that's about 1.5 hours in labor in my area
DIY is my only language, lol, not just because saving money but knowing it’s done correctly, yeah I have trust issues 😂
I relate to this comment more than I care to admit.
@@floppybeefcurtains7679 yep, there are some good mechanics out there that do good work and then there are those ones that are lazy and do shotty work but any day I can do my own repairs, is a good day.
@@jamiel3504 a lot of them dont start that way, but feel the pressure of deadlines from customers and the shop. So they opt for shortcuts on cars instead of doing things right.
@@danielclipper931 agreed!!
How do you DIY with blood tests or with the doctor? I have trust issues too like when they ask my history or parental history of this or that. I’m like any issue should show up in results without me needing to disclose history, but if I say I have a history of this & that, then they might return & say we found this & that in you. Off topic, sorry, but the trust issue thing got me thinking.
Bro had $700 in tools just to pretend like the dealer was an option for him
"influencers" of an entire generation.
You can buy those "$700" in parts easily instead of going to the mechanic/dealer for a repair or two. They pay for themselves fast.
You never thought maybe he work construction or some type of maintenance job. I have tools and I’m not a mechanic. And harbor freight comes in handy.
I mean honestly that is probably close to 700 in tools, but they easily pay for themselves esp. If you do any of your own maintenance
So I either pay 700 and just get service, or I pay 700 and have tools to do it for 100 next time.
Brakes are one of those intimidating jobs that are actually quite easy to do, especially if you’re not working on old rusted parts. When that happens, it can become a pita, but the job itself is not complicated to do.
9/10 times the hardest part is removing the rusted damn lug nuts lol
@@playdiscgolf1546 Rusted carrier bolts
Good stuff! Save money and get the satisfaction and pride of knowing you did a good job on your own!
You know it’s real when pops over your shoulders with the dad stance 😂
Me, still waiting for the brake "upgrade"..
Thank you! I was ready to see drilled rotors at least. Or some racing pads for those big ass tires.
Less than $100 for a complete brake job is definitely not an upgrade from OE parts.
@@BlackLung87 that's basic maintenance.
He probably meant upgraded from garbage to new! 😅
@@DaveDavis-ml5ic drilled rotors are for looks.
Way to go man. Saved yourself a ton of money. Cheers.
Finally someone uses a torque wrench. Thank you
No such thing as a “torque ratchet”.
It’s called a “torque wrench”.
@@LuckyCharms777 so is a ratchet a wrench too?
@@thememebean1073
A ratchet is a ratchet, it’s not a type of wrench, but an internally-toothed rotating mechanism on some wrenches. What some people call a ratchet is actually a socket wrench, which generally has a ratcheting mechanism. There are also ratcheting box-end wrenches and ratcheting screwdrivers. So I’d say technically, a ratchet is a feature on some wrenches, but it’s not a type of wrench because those wrenches are also available without a ratcheting mechanism.
For instance, you have a box-end wrench (a wrench with a circular end versus the open-end wrench as seen in this emoji 🔧). Whether it has a ratcheting mechanism or not, the tool name is still box-end wrench, but it can also be called a ratcheting box-end wrench or non-ratcheting (regular) box-end wrench to specify between the two.
So in the case of torque wrenches, which are a specialty type of socket wrench, there are the beam-type and the click-type. The click-type, as seen in the video, I suppose does have a ratcheting mechanism because you can reverse the direction of the wrench without also moving the socket in reverse, but that’s not considered a primary feature of the click-type torque wrench like it is on other wrenches so it wouldn’t be called a ratcheting torque wrench.
Sorry for the long explanation. I just wanted to make sure I properly explained it so hopefully you’ll understand what I’m trying to say.
@@LuckyCharms777 I ain’t reading all that but since you put in the effort I shall change the mistake I always called it a torque ratchet at work and never got told differently
@@thememebean1073
Well if you choose to remain ignorant so be it. You asked a question, I attempted to educate you, but if you prefer to not take advantage of learning from others people knowledge, then you get to stay dumb. Good luck with your torque ratchet. I have a feeling you’ll be stuck in that job for a long time.
ASE master tech here. I love seeing DIY people doing mechanical work on their car while using a torque wrench. Plus the fact you properly cleaned and lubed everything before assembly is great too.
The only things I would suggest that you didn’t mention is cleaning the old grease from the caliper bracket where the slides go in since the old grease likes to get caked up after a while and when you compress the caliper piston/pistons back in crack open the blender valve first to let the old cooked fluid out of the calipers so new fluid replaces it when you pump up the brakes (I typically attach a little tube on top of the blender and put the junk fluid in a empty oil container).
Still, you did better than many other “professional” mechanics I wave worked with over the years.
Must bleed brakes. 👍
Lol ya I want to see him extract a froze guide pin that has rusted! I love how people make these videos with false hope. Not everyone owns tools let alone a jack or 1/2 damn impact lmao. Plus some don't even know where to jack a car from!
@@user-rn3rn6nl3hwhy tf would u bleed brakes when changing pads and rotors 😂
@@thesarcasticgenius3986 yea but people making mistakes is how they learn. If us pros talk down to the people out there trying then they will not end up learning anything. I want to see more people involved with their car repairs (or any repairs to be frank) and I would love to see more pros be helpful instead of condescending and ignorant.
Now I’m not saying I don’t enjoy a little bit of schadenfreude when a certain type of person that doesn’t know better does something dumb with their car. I just don’t think we should treat everyone that decides to take on their brake repairs like that.
@Jay ThatGuyYouKnow I hear that. But there is another thing that I seen in my time is, that not everyone has the the gifts to even do a simple oil change. Ya I know sounds crazy and far fetched but some people just cannot be taught. Plus again tools! And how to use them. Utube does not show u everything. I tell people all the time if u have doubts don't do it. Makes no sense to mess it up then pay extra to get it fixed right. Know ur abilities and limits!
That's a Proud father trying to figure out what the hell his son is doing right there! 😂😂
Don't forget to bed the brakes. I know people who don't bed them and then drive like crazy, causing the rotors to warp from their heavy foot.
And check brake fluid. Out of all of the tips in this video i feel like thats a necessity for new break changers lol
@@stonedmega1 thanks 👍🏻 sometimes i just type away and dont even look twice
Bedding brakes is really only necessary for race/high performance pads. Recently replaced my rotors and pads with Centric (OEM for StopTech) and they say its not needed.
So I still do a bedding in process for new pads. However, I have found it's not necessary for pure street duty. Even brand new pads will lock up the tires and you can only brake so hard as to kick on abs. As for warping rotors, I've found what does that more often is heating the rotors up and then parking it with the parking brake on right, or doing heavy braking multiple times and then just sitting there holding the brakes. Basically doing things that heat up the rotors more than normal, and then leaving the pads firmly pressed into the rotor, not allowing for an even heat dissipation. A good example is braking down a long hill and sitting at a light for 5 minutes. I'm sure there are other ways but that's what I have found warps rotors most often
Passenger cars don't get rotors hot enough to warp. You're thinking of uneven pad deposits
Dad: those calipers aren't powder coated red.
Mechanics are the hardest people to trust. Trying to find an honest mechanic is like trying to find a blind doctor.
Seriously!
Service advisors are hard ones to trust. A mechanic just wants to fix your vehicle.
@@LOWZZ33 ya but they take advantage of people’s lack of knowledge as to what the problem really is. I’ve heard so many stories about little old ladies coming in complaining about their breaks. Mechanic finds a coffee mug lodged under the pedal and charges them for a full replacement.
@@LOWZZ33service advisors aren't mechanics. They are predatory salespeople.
@@Dr.White_PHDdid that really happen?
Don't forget to check the brake fluid reservoir. When you wound the caliper back, if someone has ever topped up brake fluid when pads were thinner, the system may need some fluid extraction.
I never push the fluid back into the reservoir. I always open the bleeder and let the fluid out there. A lot less messy, and minimizes the risk of the seals in the master cylinder getting damaged.
I usually recommend a brake fluid exchange with a brake job so I just leave it a little low after so it doesn’t over flow my shop gives a better warranty on out brakes if u get a fluid exchange with the brake job that’s why I always recommend them
@Will Swingem definitely not a silly idea considering how often brake fluid is overlooked. I'd say theres a fair few vehicles driving round on original fluid thats only ever been topped up when its gotten low.
@@Vikingxbwell had a caprice once and did some mountain driving when the oil began cooking we had extremly brake fade and needed to pump twice before it braked 😂... but that just an american car. Also had this with a vw golf 2. When i reached 50mph and brake it brake til 20mph and then it didnt brake anymore. When i had a toyota starlet p7 from 1986 and brake it from 60 mph it did brake till 0 mph. Thats why the rest is crap
Yep, pop the cap off and giggle while it runs out thinking "dumbass Mr fix it here seen his brake light and added fluid........why does it need fluid......is something getting smaller.....wearing down if you will, and it's not fluid but pads you need" 😂😊
The real question is… why were you even at the dealer in the first place
My thoughts exactly
My thoughts exactly
Your manager did a great job!!!😂
Yea man seriously saves a ton of money, I remember when I was showed how to change my breaks on my old scion tc. Life changing for real!
Love the dad flops. He knows his role of sanity keeper.
Man those BFGs look so nice on those rims
Yeah this Friday just passed I just went and paid $100 for a diagnostic test because I had a power steering leak they found the problem and said it will be $1,600 to repair my steering box. First off it's a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 it doesn't take long to repair why so high. And why so high for a diagnostic test when it didn't really tell me nothing else going on with my vehicle.
Dealer told me 1k to replace strut mounts so instead I upgraded my entire suspension myself for the same price
700 for brakes is crazy but if you spent less than 100 it wasn't an upgrade
I think he just meant upgrade as in replacing old ones with new ones.
We don’t upgrade them for 700 either just replace them with oem parts shit ya pay 200-1000$ or more for repairs and when we don’t have a part in stock guess where we get it from autozone, orilly, advanced, Napa etc you get the memo, dealerships are the biggest scam but thanks to those who don’t know shit about cars we make hella money
As some one who’s a mechanic at Toyota in Australia brake pads are around $260 aud not $700 dudes just saying it’s more so he gets more views 😂
@@iamtrinity5187 does that include labor?
@@lucyloo2228 yeah
You don't yank on a torque wrench... Supposed to apply constant, even pressure.
Constructive feedback instead of just aggressive bullying, love to see it on the Internet. Its a rarity Nowadays
And hold it for a few seconds so it doesn’t spring back
If your torqueing something that brakes easily…. Maybe your slow or maybe a salty Toyota mechanic
@@bmo14laxbro threw in the ….. that means he thinks he smarter and you have to be dumb to never have read the torque wrench manual like his daddy made him
@@tylercecil5634 *breaks* - "brakes" are what the video is demonstrating
secondly, his advise not to yank on the torque wrench isn't because you'll snap the bolt.. it's because your torque won't be accurate when not using the tool correctly.. If you're going to use a torque wrench, why not employ proper use of the tool?
Yeah, while i was out of town, the brakes were needing done on my caravan. They wanted 1500 to replace all of it & flush the fluid. They lasted long enough for me to do it myself. Saved right at 1000 bucks!
Pardon me, but you shouldn’t jerk on the torque wrench because it won’t be accurate. Just pull smoothly until it beeps or snaps, depending on the kind you have. Good job, my friend.
Should always give the caliper a good wire brushing too (where the shims sit especially)
Brake clean is a degreaser. You have to wipe after spraying otherwise after brake clean evaporates the oils and grease are still present.
It doesn't hurt to wipe them but in actuality the brake cleaner will disolve the oils on the new rotors & as the cleaner runs off the grease & oils will go with it. So no you really don't need to wipe them. Just use enough cleaner for it to run off and take the bad stuff with it.
You don't even need to use it on painted rotors
I spray wd 40 on my brakes weekly to prevent rusting
@@EricB90 lmfao.. Gotta be cap
@@SmDJeremy obviously
This is the power of being able to do things yourself. Labor costs A LOT.
I’ve paid that $700 before, simply because I lived in a city and didn’t really have a place to work. Now that I have a garage I’ll be doing this myself. Thank you for the CONCISE video. Lots of videos like this go on for half an hour.
I told a guy at work 400 to do his breaks all around on his BMW and he said it was too much. I was like ok pal go to whoever you want
I’m a service advisor at a BMW repair shop, and I can attest that no brake job is under $1,000 at our shop. So yeah, that dude should get trade that BMW for a Honda.
BMW was charging me $1200 to replace the brake line clip for hand brake. It’s located underneath the car, above drive shaft. 🤦🏻♂️ Ended up replacing it myself for the cost of the part, $22. All I’ve read on BMWs is that every trip to the deal is at least $1000.
If you are an experienced tech and your gonna do his brakes on the side then 400 is reasonable but if your not then 200 an hour is a bit much
Right I work for a GMC dealership and don’t get me wrong. I gotta make my paycheck but I really hate whenever I give people a quote for front and rear brakes with new rotors and it’s almost $1500. I’m sorry but that is incredibly unrealistic and the response I get from my boss is “ we’re just trying to be competitive with the other places around town” Go f!ck yourself if I didn’t have a warranty I wouldn’t be coming to you. And that’s from a person who works for the dealership! 🙄
@@Gregg0112 Not if you save him hundreds... And have done a brake job before.
Don't skimp on brake pads tho or you'll have to redo em real quick!
Cheap ones are dirty too.
that's what I thought when he mentioned total price. for a truck the brake pads you should use are ceramic and alone cost 40$ or more, and rotors 110$ or more.
I teach all my friends how to change oil and their whole brake system. Saves a ton of money
When I get a quote from a shop I just think of all the tools I can buy for the price they want
This is why I always delete the brakes it's much cheaper during the short period of ownership. 😂
😂😂😂 very short ownership indeed
Solid advice
Fax
@@135moreno1 And she gets the "upgrade" tail light warranty!
They only slow you down anyway, good riddance!
A good set of rotors and pads are around $ 200.00 parts only.
430$ for my 2017 Ford fusion all around front and rear mid grades.
Bs😂😂😂 a quailty set of rotors and pads are at least 400+... this is aint no TRQ a1 auto bs but go ahead and buy that all in one kit nd be mad them shit squeak or vibrations still happening
@@soilBGuRu420
what do you prefer….?
I have a 2005 Pilot. Amazon Prices as of 04/15/23:
ACDelco Silver 18A1312A Rear Rotors = $25.90 ea.
Raybestos Element3 Pads 865H
$27.21
Or
Wagner QuickStop ZD865
Pads = $22.93
Total in parts $74.73-$79.01+tax
These aren't Bendix or Detroit Axle parts either. If you go to your local AutoZone, I would pay ~$280+tax on their Duralast brand of parts.
It is realistic if you shop around before you need to do the job.
The rear brakes for the model year of my vehicle. To me it looked like he was doing the rears only.
This isnt a race car any basic rotors and pads will be fine and cheap for my vehicle and I just looked $45 each for rotors and $42 for 2 sets of pads so if you know math thats $264 for all 4 brand new and it will work perfectly fine
Dad in the back making sure its done right
Pops looks so intrigued. Guess he never realized how easy it is to save $ on simple jobs like that
Always clean uncoated rotors before install. But you never ever use brake clean on new coated rotors. That coating is made to be removed by the pads and if you hit it with brake clean it breaks it down and will not be removed correctly which can cause squealing.
Always clean rotors anyways, that oil on new rotors is to prevent rust. You don't want an oily substance on a brake pad 😂
@@YungEagle3k you can clean coated rotors all you want but you cannot clean them with brake clean. They have no oil on them, just the zink coating.
You are totally wrong about that. Always clean them with brake cleaner. The coating is not meant to be removed by the pads. Where the hell did you hear that? That's absurd.
@@jeffriedstraoh yeah like the brake pads rubbing on the rotor aren't going to take the coating off but brake clean does according to you right😂 no rotors have coating the only coating they have is a light film of oil to keep them from rusting during shipping and mouisture
Listen, you are both talking about a different type of coating. I specifically stated that I am not talking about rotors that are coated in oil that is meant to prevent them from rusting during shipping. Obviously you need to remove that, most shops via brake clean, and more and more switching to dish soap now.
I am talking about the silver, zink/aluminum coating that is baked onto the rotor during production on new rotors now. Very few have any type of oil coating on them and the baked ones 100% do not have oil on them.
Paying someone to do the job while you sit at home or in a comfortable chair is the trade off.
Wuss
Do you twirl your hair while you piss sitting down too? 😂😂😂
Nah I'd like my 700 dollars 😂
@@calidobe Facts!
Also: Toyota parts and labour have a warranty at any Toyota dealer, should there be an issue. The Toyota dealet assumes responsibility for the repairs.
He screws up and kills someone, he is responsible.
Hope you opened your reservoir when you wound your caliper back in :)
So they can blow brake fluid all over the paint? No reason to open it unless they added fluid as the brakes wore which is not smart.
@@gumps1986 huh? when winding calipers back in you should open the reservoir to pop the seal otherwise there will be too much air in the system to wind them in properly
@@gumps1986 wat
This is why I sold my new trucks and bought ones I can work on, saved thousands, and no payments
You did ok but you should leave the caliper connected to the hose. Loosen the master cylinder cap helps also.
he did
I'm. no brake shop tech... ive done a few tho..
I've never even considered removing the hose for a job like this. wouldn't this just be more work, more chance for failure of the fitting?
my standard has always been to carefully suspend the caliper out of the way.
@@nlocflick yeah, don't take the hose off. Hang it with a zip tie or S hook. Taking the cap off the master before compressing the piston helps though
He never disconnected the caliper from the hose. Maybe try paying attention next time.
And as soon as that high temp grease gets good and hot and Cooks those pins they're seized up.
Ceramic lube for ceramic brakes is what I use never have issues
😂😂😂 tell me you’ve never used high temp grease before
I’m a service advisor and i feel embarrassed to quote people $900 for brake pads and rotors
You are a rarity. My local Kia dealership just gave me a price of $1,200 for brake pad & rotor replacement - both axles - on a 12 yo Kia. Thieves.
My wife never believes me when I say I'm saving us thousands when I do our vehicle maintenance 😂
I learned to do this when I was 13. My boys will learn the same.
good. I wish the hell my Dad taught me how to do shit.
@@rosssinclair1313 youtube is free
Those rotors you actually don’t have to spray off. They have a solid coating on them to keep rust away. You will hear a grinding noise for a few miles until it wears away. There’s my little tidbit of information:)
Yeah it all just depends on what you buy, some rotors I’ve gotten have an oil coating for shipping protection, but the ones I just got for my truck came dry like you said, I still like to spray them down regardless to get any oils off that I may have gotten on from handling them.
@@RoastFlea61 still a good habit to have
Most if not all rotors (even painted ones) are shipped with an oil coating on them.
Always a good idea to spray them anyways before putting on the tires just to get off any slide lubricants you might of gotten on them during the installation.
That must be an american thing, I have yet never seen suppliers in Germany like ATE, TRW and Bosch deliver rotors with an oil Film on them, they are always coated and ATE does the most visible one where it’s literally like gray paint on the whole thing
Knowing that steps weren't skipped or half done. Priceless!
In 32 years of being a mechanic, I have never used a torque wrench to do any brake work. 😂
Was looking for this comment 🤣
yeah it is unfortunate to see that even professional don't give two shits abt something that is so simple and quick lol
@@wermish6040 and completely unnecessary, tight is tight when it comes to brakes, different story if you’re doing wheel bearings, cylinder heads etc but a waste of time trying to get a torque wrench behind a hub just to torque the carrier and calliper bolts
@@Steve_T14 Tell that to the clown mechanic that decided "tight was tight" when he used an impact wrench to tighten my lugnuts lol
@@MrSilk13642 every mechanic uses an impact gun to tighten wheel nuts, you’re supposed to buzz it til it clicks then tighten with a torque wrench, if he’s gunned them up too tight he’s not a very good mechanic
As a brake tech seeing so many cars come in from customers doing a brake job wrong is funny asf
Wouldnt you think it more of a worry than funny?!
Safety first
@@daveminuet8114They think they know what they’re doing and end up making it worse, they shoulda just came to a shop first
@@trentulloa i understand what u mean. I work on trucks. But i never find diy repairs gone bad "funny"
Twisted flex lines, calipers mounted up side down, rear brake shoes backwards. Even had one where the rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and backing plates were removed completely, the rear flex hose had vice grips pinching it shut!
and all the equipment that you need to purchase in order to replace the brake pads....priceless!
Great job!
My only issue.. who chooses a *white* shirt to do any sort of automotive maintenance?! Lmao 😋
Where'd you get the parts?
Pick n pull???
😂
Pick N Pull would be under $50. You should know since you shop there as well.
@@boltsandbanter ❤️
@@boltsandbanter I was able to get wiper arms, headlight casings, break light casings, Sideview mirrors, lots of goodies for cheap, saves a ton of money by switching to pick n pull 😀
Even better when they have a sale. Sometimes the environmental fees stack up, and when they sneak in a warranty I never asked for. I get plenty of parts there regularly
@@boltsandbanter Recycling at its best ♻️ 👍
You forgot to adjust parking brakes before putting caliper back on.
There’s a thing called self adjusting parking brakes.
@@tmakerful there not self adjusting lol or I wouldn’t have mentioned it. Been doing this for a minute now. That’s for your input though.
Love how pops is chilling with you. There are many things you can share with family but this one is at the top.
I like how your dad's just watching you 😂 making sure you don't break something
don't forget to mention the $600 of tools you need to finish this job.
Not really. Do need a few sockets, maybe some needle nose pliers, a hammer....
1socket and a ratchet along with a screw driver . Torque wrench is just silly /. Oh I forgot to mention a pliers . $10 on craigs list
Few sockets and a few beers is all that are needed homie.
Back in college the Toyota dealership quoted me the same for brakes on my Tacoma. That single quote got me into fixing and maintaining my own stuff
Thanks Toyota! 😊
I had my brakes go out and hit a curb in my first car. Quoted 1000 bucks for a new A frame and master cyclinder, actually needed a brake line and a junk yard A frame. Fixed it myself for 70 dollars. I'll never go back to mechanic after they couldn't even get the diagnosis right. It's been 11 years since then and I've done all my own work.
Excellent work Sir, $$ in your pocket
THIS IS THE COOLEST GUY EVER, he changed brakes and rotors in a white crew neck. I’m telling my kids this was Picasso
If you’re getting a pair of rotors for under $80 each, you’re gonna have some warped rotors by your second oil change. Good luck.
I get brembo rotors and some other brand pads for NZ $127.00
Oh so you find all those tools you were using in the back of a cab?
Guess we're not factoring that in?
About $400 in tools between M18 impact wrench, a torque wrench, sockets, etc. You can cut that down to under $100 easily, you just won't have the impact wrench. Might need a breaker bar to break loose the caliper bracket bolts.
@@luisamoa2500 I like Dustin's response better. He didn't appear to take it personal. Which is good, because it wasn't meant to be personal.
Tools are reusable, and the cost gets broken down over every use. There is a good chance that he already owned the tools.
Another tip, for a more complete job, depending on the degree of rust, remove the shims in the caliper bracket and wire wheel the shim mounting surfaces to a perfect finish. Apply some paint as you've just exposed bare metal, and install new shims. Also worth noting that the caliper piston surface which contacts the pad, as well as the opposite side of the caliper inner face must be wire wheeled and protected, in order to apply even pressure on the pads. Hope this helps, happy wrenching 🔧🧰
My father taught my brother and I how to work on cars and now I'm teaching my son.
Watching you tube videos definitely helps.
Just did the fronts on my tacoma yesterday. $105 for the pads from the deakership + $50 to have my rotors turned at an autoparts store. Started the job after 5pm & was done before dark, that includes an hour of waiting for the rotors to be turned.
Screw dealer service centers.
If it's a newer vehicle the rotors are so thin you don't wanna turn them because they will warp. Better to just replace them and wouldn't be buying parts from a dealership that's just common sense.
@@trev119 no no no... the rotors will be fine. They only warp if you drive like an idiot. The first set of front pads lasted over 90,000 miles. This is on a 2015 , manual transmission. I barely use the brakes.
Lol 90k miles on rotors and you decide to turn them!? Dude for an extra 50 bucks you got brand new rotors and have no possibility for issues. As far as the dealer goes. They can’t be putting on aftermarket brakes or cutting rotors at 90k miles. They have to fix it so customers don’t come back complaining
Wayne! Where is your cape?
There’s a reason. Everything gets cleaned, re-greased, resurfaced, new bolts, nuts, and clips sometimes. Every nook and cranny cleaned and prepped for new parts.
Magic $700 "cleaning" oooooo
If you really believe they absolutely do all that.
This man paid himself $300 an hour
Here in the UK, my Ford Mondeo 2.0L TDCi failed its MoT test (Ministry of Transport Test) due to serious rot the rockers (sills) on the off-side. The garage quoted £1,400 to replace the entire part. I could buy an aftermarket part for £75 on eBay.
But instead I bought a MIG welder and gas, and the necessary extras for £250. Then I acquired a load of scrap mild steel of the correct thickness from the scrap bins of a local engineering company, and taught myself to weld - badly, despite watching lots of very skilled welders who generously shared their knowledge and skills.
I already had the other tools. It took me over a week to learn, beat multiple pieces of steel into all the shapes necessary to replace approximately 1/3 of the inner and outer sill. I used cereal packets to get the correct shapes of all the different elements, borrowing inspiration from the other side.
The main reasons for doing it this was because the car is only worth £350, therefore it wasn’t worth spending £1,400; I couldn’t afford it anyway; I gained a new tool and a new skill (almost); and using lots of smaller pieces of free steel, instead of fitting an aftermarket part meant that I didn’t have to peel back the carpets to avoid setting the car on fire. I could have cut up an aftermarket sill, but where’s the challenge of that…?
Remember, all parts are not created equally…
I call b.s. no dealer is that high. More like $200 to $300.
sounds like you've been to every dealer in NYC to ask for pricing. $200 is a brake job at an independent shop, if you're lucky.
They are that high. My daughters friend took her car to a shop and they wanted $1200 to change rotors and pads on all 4 wheels.
It cost me $225 in parts to change 2 of my daughters rotors and pads on all 4 wheels.
@@kmacnumber2 that's the spirit! DIY brake jobs aren't so bad and can save tons of money, even if you buy parts off the shelf at Autozone or O'Reilly's. I got my rotors and pads on sale at Rockauto and my wallet couldn't be happier!
@@boltsandbanter no I work at a dealer. So I know the pricing
@@tonygregori4138 cool so maybe your dealer can teach NYC dealers a thing or two about fair pricing. I haven’t been quoted sub $500 for a brake job, ever.
Lmao my dad stands there watching like that too. Hilarious.
That sounds about right. Toyota dealer wanted $1,200 for pads and rotors all around for my Camry. That was 20 years ago! We decided to do it ourselves.
All dealers are crooks in America 💯👌😂
Less than 100? That sounds sketchy 😂 but not my car or life
You mean "Steeler", The Service Advisor who writes up your Estimate at the Dealership Makes over $100K a year !
Love the supervisor in the background 😂
don't forget to pump the brake pedal is priceless- been there long ago
same, never changed a brake in my life, but Honda wanted $500 to change brakes and rotors all around. Bought all the tools I needed, and brakes and rotors. Did the work myself after watching several videos. Now I have all the tools for less than what they wanted. Next I did engine oil and transmission oil myself. I find it fun and relaxing. Not sure I would do on a brand new car, but my old Honda, who cares.
Thanks to my grandfather for teaching me how to maintain a car at the sge of 13. Now that I'm an adult, it saves me so much money, plus I know what's being done to my vehicle.
That's not bad. Dealership charged me $1300 for one front wheel rotor and caliper replaced. Inspection was in with that too I think.
“RockAuto: All the parts you’ll ever need!” And I believe it. Most of my parts for my 02 Saturn comes from that website! Foglight assemblies, electrical connections, brake kits and calipers, suspension and soon to be alternator! So far, the parts are holding up the test of time and driving.
I have done my own brakes and other people's brakes for 55 years. I just did my wifes rear brakes one week ago. Never had one issue.
I just got finished replacing the brakes on my Mazda 6. The shop "only" wanted $750 for both front and rear, but my wife filed that estimate under "No way, Jose!"
The thing alot of people don't understand is that the average job doesn't cost much in parts. The largest expense is the tools used for the job & the labor of the mechanic. That milwaukee M18 is $400 for the tool + battery. The jack on a low end maybe $120. The torque wrench on the low end $100. The Piston retract tool $40. Sockets and ratchet set on the low end harbor freight $50. So total investment to do ur own brakes is roughly $720. But the good news is if you buy all those tools you get to save money by doing your own work.
Never subject yourself to dealership BS if at all humanly possible.
Looks like a tech from a dealership getting his side hustle on, 😂
As a mechanic I can say he doing it properly time , Labour , parts and equipment along with warranty sound about right for $700. Form my judgement you did a better job then they probably would have
Just did my brothers brakes the other day. With prices skyrocketing for everything it’s smart to learn how to perform these things on your own.
Local man discovers maintaining his own vehicle