I Coated My Garage SOLO! Full Polyaspartic & Epoxy Floor Coating Guide
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- MasterpieceEpoxyCoatings.com
Mention this video for 10% off your next garage or basement coating project!
If you have any questions at all about materials, which kit is appropriate for your floor, or installation, call/text me directly Steven, 720-550-9958 or email me MasterpieceEpoxyCoatings@gmail.com
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Good to see somebody doing the proper way instead of all the cheap rust oleum crap. Great job man keep it up.
Thanks 👍
Great question. We say without the grind it won’t bind. In other words, the grinding creates a “scratch” under the cap. The “cap” is the top 1/8th inch of any concrete. The cap tries to seal off from the air and keeps all the pores underneath protected from the elements including air in general. By grinding off the “cap” you can begin to create a surface that epoxy can mechanically bond to. This is why we give a lifetime warranty. We know the bond will never delaminate. On the other hand, etching is a “cleaning process that will clean the concrete to the cleanest it’s ever been but you still won’t have the “teeth” needed for an everlasting mechanical bond. Hope this helps. New or old concrete always has a cap that needs to be grinned for an excellent bond.
Nice job. We use a cove filler on the horizontal to vertical transitions and we install a baseboard with a 1/4 flat top cut to a 30 degree bevel where we end the coating. This allows for a wainscotting if desire but if not, it's a good transition. We paid the walls with a satin exterior polyurithane paint. This makes it possible for the customer to hose off the walls and then water won't sit on the baseboard nor in the corners. Makes it easier to clean.
That sounds like s lot of work to be honest. We just use epoxy and sand to trowel the cove in, tape off the top with painters tape, and flake into epoxy. Then top coat them with epoxy. Of course you gotta be real thin on your polyurathane. 4 days to do the job, but that ugly crack around the footing of the concrete goes bye bye, and your roller fits perfect into the cove when back rolling.
Thanks so much. I tried to show as much as possible without it being boring. This was 3 long days of work. Steven. 😅
This is my favorite AMSR video…
@@pocketpoolboy wow. Thank you so much.
I can tell you if I had you do that for me I would insist on two coats of clear with anti-slip thrown down because I think the thinner the coat the more chance of failure over time.
Good video, always wanted to see a big job done alone, preparation, and material management, with good planning before you go makes for a good product. Thank you for the video.
Glad you enjoyed it😊
This is a great video to help understnad the process. Thanks! Two questions: What product (brand) do you use? And, how did you clean the felt joints?
I use Pantheon products in Denver and Alta. I scratch the felt line and then wire brush it. Hope this helps.
@@masterpiececoatings, thanks so much!
Excellent video, very informative. One question, did wood stairs/platform require any special prep or can epoxy go on fresh wood straight away? Thanks!
I did the epoxy base coat and treated everything just like the concrete floor. Hope it all holds up! S
You can put it on directly. 😮
Awesome video. Good work!! The felt line is a great attention to detail..Im going to do grey epoxy base coat with polyaspartic clear top coat with holographic silver glitter. No flakes to mess with. I’m grinding a 15 year old home depot epoxy floor that is 15 year old concrete. Should I primer the floors?
You shouldn’t need to primer specifically. Your primer is you BASE COAT. Hope this helps. Ty.
@@masterpiececoatings thanks bud much appreciated
Why you never fill up the joints first and do the epoxy on them to give a more smoother look and without any joints? Overall a fantastic job as usual. Keep up the good work.
i have filled the joints. i think its better to allow the expansion joints to be natural in case they crack or want to move down the road.
Looks great! Question: a place where I clean just put this flooring in- it looks great, BUT it feels 'prickly' to the touch. If they don't do anything about it, it will be extremely difficult to maintain. Any thoughts on why this happened, and how to fix it? Thanks in advance!
It sounds like it needed to be scraped more. We scrape the flake off before adding the top coat. The scraping is done to knock down any standing flake. Hope to help. Ty
@@masterpiececoatings Thanks for the response!
What does everyone do with the concrete dust you grind off? Can you just toss it in a dumpster?
Most people just throw it away. I reuse some of it for crack filler when I have big driveway or garage floor cracks. Steven
Have you had decent luck with applying to wood steps? I have wood steps going down from my garage I want to do with Polyurea base with flake and polyaspartic top coat.
I’ve never had any call backs or failures.
So, if it's "new construction".. with no oil stains or damage, why do you need to grind it down?.. Etching would open the pores, so why grind it down?
If you go to different manufactureres, they always tell you the only two ways to prep the floor for their warrenty is shot blasting (preferred), or diamond grinding. I believe the acid weakens the top surface. Im also assuming the day to pressure wash, clean, and dry over night is way more of a hassle, than grinding it in a few hours and vacuuming for a better prep
Please assist Is this correct: 1- grind 2- fill cracks etc
3- apply an epoxy primer
4- apply a colored epoxy of choice ( preferably 1 step no mixing)
5- optional flakes/chips
6- polyurea or polyaspartic or poly what is the (3rd) top coat..?
Thank you . I’ve had a few estimates and each seemed to tell me different. So I’m thinking of doing this myself ( after the grinding ).. Thank you in advance . And BTW real good video
yes. you got it
What kind of roller do you use?
@@pocketpoolboy 3/8”nap. 18” roller. Sometimes I will add in the 9” roller.
Curious as to what you charge to do a floor from prep to finish like this a sq ft. I understand that different areas can charge different prices, just curious your state and price?
It ranges from $6 to $8 depending on prep, materials used and needed, and number of top coats. Hope this helps. Ty.
This a ez fun job that pays food $ frfr 20-30$ where im at im in😂😂💯
When it comes to cleaning the polyaspartic coating, can we use a spinning steam mop on it?
Yes you can!
do you find that when properly grinded and cleaned with xylol that a primer isn't necessary? does your base have any vapor barrier properties? what are the wet mils? nice job dude!
Thanks for the reply. I always use a base epoxy or polyaspartic. No primer. But some people say the base coat and primer is synonymous.
I don’t always use a MVB but on my metallics projects I almost always use it. The wet mills are in the 35 range. Steven
@@masterpiececoatings very cool! thanks Steven
Great video!
Thanks!
Where can I purchase these products? The base and sealer.
What city are you in?
@@masterpiececoatings i have the same question on what materials did you use and where to buy. There are tons of "systems" out there and some seem to be a rip off. i am going to be doing 500sq ft this spring and i am doing the research now on this. I am near Cleveland, Ohio. Thanks
Is it normal for the ground to have a crunch sound with flakes sticking to everything afterwards?
@@BrotherNick777 no
Do you always fully coat and flake past the garage door on the exterior side?
I do always full flake out on the apron. I think it looks so much better. More finished.
@@masterpiececoatings Will the sun fade the coating and chips to look different than the interior floor?
@@s2k442 yes
@@s2k442 With a poly top coat, no.
With the polyaspartic top coat no!
Thx
Did you prep the sides with a grinder before?
I did very light prep on the curb wall. Only light grinder to get old paint and drywall off. Not to grind to make a profile or anything like that. Hope this helps.
I did very light prep on the curb wall. Only light grinder to get old paint and drywall off. Not to grind to make a profile or anything like that. Hope this helps.
" Your coatings will be as good as the surfaces where it is applied "
Absolutely!
Cost of the job?
A job like this will depend on the materials, stem wall, and of course that landing. It will range from 4-5 thousand.
you always work alone ?
Not always. I was working hard to catch up! Yikes. So much work.
Please assist Is this correct: 1- grind 2- fill cracks etc
3- apply an epoxy primer
4- apply a colored epoxy of choice ( preferably 1 step no mixing)
5- optional flakes/chips
6- polyurea or polyaspartic or poly what is the (3rd) top coat..?
Thank you . I’ve had a few estimates and each seemed to tell me different. So I’m thinking of doing this myself ( after the grinding ).. Thank you in advance . And BTW real good video
Yes, correct
@@masterpiececoatings I got an estimate for - grind. Then patch. Then base “ coat. Then small amount of flakes ( I don’t like that flakey flake look..). Then poly top.. is this acceptable? ( just 1 coat of epoxy and 1 coat of poly). Will this last. Here in Michigan …
@@TJOLLYRANCHER it will last. If your prep was done correctly. It’s all about the base. You can stack the best epoxy and polyaspartic on shit prep and you get shit. It will fail within 3 months.
If the used and 80grit/soft to hard diamond. The appropriate bonded diamond for your floor…it will last.
If they uses a high grade polyaspartic topcoat…it could outlast the house. S
@@masterpiececoatings thank you. So I have to ensure that the guy uses a 80 grit diamond grinder. I don’t want to swing for the polyaspartic. ..
He says one day…. I read where people say avoid 1 day jobs. …..(?)…