I like the idea of the drip leg... will look into that at home... however, anyone spraying, with the compressor in the shop, must duct the intake, to outside, otherwise, they will breath the compressed toxic air, (through their airfed masks,) as pump will draw from inside toxic workshop etc... this I have to do too. As for the pump outlet condenser, (similar idea to a diesel turbo intercooler), surely, this will fill with condensed water? ...loving your work Trev, you make great informative, relaxed videos, in a wonderfully British way.
Another way of doing all this is to just run your airlines out of pipe. They will go up from the compressor output fitting, into the shop and about 6-8ft high on the wall in a horizontal run. This horizontal run will have two important features. It will be on a slight slant with the farthest end from the compressor being the highest point...so that all moisture in the line runs down toward the compressor and back into the compressor tank. The other feature is that every point where you want an outlet for air, you will have a take off line that comes off the top of this horizontal line , goes up about a foot and then makes a 180 degree turn and runs down the wall to a wall bracket and a ninety degree short pipe with an air coupler on it. The loop also prevents water from getting into your tools etc...and you can install an automatic lubricator if you're feeling fancy. This will mean that really the only place you need to drain is the compressor tank. Now...when it comes to air for the paint booth. You put in a separate dedicated line into the booth...and you go and buy a dryer canister for a plasma cutter...the canister will have a filter that will remove both moisture and oil. I've even seen a canister fabricated to hold a roll of toilette paper...and I've sprayed with that ...worked pretty good. BTW...I think your compressor needs to be a little bigger , at school I learned that a good ballpark is a 5hp single phase that can put out 14 -15 CFM @60psi. Cheers from Canada!
Another benefit of cooling the air is that it is denser so, it works better. I mounted an AC condenser in front of the pulley for the pump so the fan that cools the pump also cools the condenser. The compressor unit can be located outside under a rain cover. That way the noise is also outside. The AC condenser method can also be used after the tank but it requires a water trap after the condenser. Located in the tank inlet ,the tank functions as a water trap.
very good never thought of it like this but if you were to put an air receiver outside wouldn't that achieve the same thing cool the air and have a drain tap?
Yes it would certainly work. The drop tube works better if you have limited space because you can fit it behind something ideally in the shade to keep it as cool as possible. Cheers Trev 👍
Am I missing something trev? Surely those scaffold pipes outside (presumably the lowest point of the system?) will be full of water by now if you dont have a water let off on them directly?
Imagine if you did something similiar in between cylinder and tank? You would pretty much never have to drain your tank, which by removing all that moisture, would theoretically mean that your steel tank should last so many more years, because it wouldnt rust! Cool set up.
Like your idea cool lol. Ok if you start at the source very good eliminate it there. You can run it through steel pipes that run inside larger pipes and water runs inside for cooling. This however is a large waste of tap water or requires a tank and pump. The tank has to cycle cool water periodically as water heats up. These pipes are called water jackets. Trevor way is cheaper and simpler. One could of course buy a cooler radiator and electronic fan built for compressors...
I have an a/c condenser mounted to a window fan in between my pump and tank. It has a drip leg after the condenser that gets a bunch of water in it. After the tank I have 2 water traps/dessicant filters and oil filters feeding my hose reel. I still get water vapor out of my air tools. I live in a low humidity area.
I made a grid of steel air line from the compressor outlet that ends in a drip leg before going into my tank and it cools the air before going into the tank and removes at least 90% of the water before the tank. Generally the only time I get more than a few drips from the tank is in a change of weather etc.
G'day from West Australia, hmm food for thought, a condenser with a evaporator set up on it. Use Air conditioning pump driven by the compressor motor belt some hoses a bit of gas and Walla, Dry Air 😉🙂👍👍 I like it Trev very nice buddy.
Hi Trev . Appreciate your videos especially as I’m learning to spray my 1969 Triumph Vitesse . I don’t have a welder and need a better water trap system . Could I use an old radiator mounted upside down on the outside wall of my garage / spray room . I would have an inlet , outlet and of course a built in drain facility . All the best
hi trevor, i`m learning a lot with your videos on sheetmetal so thanks. you pretty much did a good explanation with a bit here and there but anyways if it works it works and the rest is academic. one of the few things i`d correct is air is heated when compressed regardless of the means of compressing it and blah blah :D BUT one important thing to remark is the fabrication of the drip leg as it is a pressure vessel holding the 6 to 10 kilos of pressure any bad weld could result in a nasty accident, so a pretty competent (or lucky) welder is in need, the thing can be made of threaded pipe too which can be safer for the do it yourself guy. one contraption you could check is called "the franzinator". the amount of condensation! do you live in a sub?:D i live in the desert so almost no condensation but air cleanliness is paramount for air tools and such. thanks for sharing and take care. peter.
Are dehumifers worth using and do they kill mold already in a room or do they just stop new mold appearing also is salt effective and ok to use in dehumifers that have crystals in the top of dehumifer when Crystal's have run out I have mold in my bedroom and I use dehumifers and I dont wanna have to keep buying more dehumifers
Tara miller this video has nothing to do with dehumidifiers but the crystals for dehumidifiers are readily available to buy online. Search for Kontrol krystals 👍
The air from the compressor will be saturated with moisture, like a rain cloud in the sky. When that warm air hits the cool of the steel the moisture condenses into water. By having a long tube inside the air has further to travel as it’s got to go all the way down to the bottom before coming back up, giving a greater chance for condensation. Cheers Trev 👍
Ryan 1234 a list would be hard for me to put together sorry but if you’re shot blasting make sure you use larger bore airlines and fittings as small ones will reduce the flow too much. Cheers Trev 👍
The easy way to do it is tap the line from the compressor, run it through your drip leg cooling system and return into your tank. In theory it will stop any water building up and eventually rusting. Just a thought
Great advice. Just a couple of questions please..What pressure do you set your regulator at in the spray booth. Up until that you’ll have 8-10 bar running through the Pipework/ drip leg etc. Do you suffer from any pressure drop with this set up. Thank you.
lewigas290 I set the pressure to what I need. Initially I had pressure drop so I increased the bore of the air line and air line fittings to those shown in the video. I don’t have a problem with pressure drop for what I do, general painting and operating air tools etc. Cheers Trev 👍
Trev - great vid - I think you have missed the main problem with air drying, job #1 is to get the liquid water out of the air, job done, but the other part is to get the water vapour out which is why dessicants and refrigeration units are used. When the air is compressed 90% of the heat is caused by the compression itself, beyond whatever friction heat may be added by the compressor components. Problem is, at the business end of the line (paint sprayer, plasma cutter or whatever) when the air loses its compression, all that heat that was caused by compression is lost again and causes the air to cool down considerably (this is the basis of refrigeration). When the air cools down, all the water vapour condenses and causes lots of problems. Your solution does not really help with this as all this happens in the sprayer itself. Still enjoy your vids tho, the accent alone is worth it!
The only change would be the material of your drip leg....as we saw all the rust in the water....one issue being the tubing rusting through and blowing out...hopefully while your not standing next to it and two on a nice dry spell the rust dries and completely travels through the system and into your tools and paint.....personal experience
Been really enjoying your vids! Being formerly from the west (wet) coast of Canada, I can relate to the insane amount of water in the air. I used to have to drain my tank (etc) ever day. I moved about 1200km east to what is now considered the 'desert' (even though it was -35C the other day!), and the air is soooooo dry in comparison! No more flash rusting when I've machined or body worked, etc some steel. Though you never showed it - your air volume is only as good as your weakest point. Are you using Milton "M" series couplings on your tools? They are a HUGE restriction! I switched over to the Milton "V" (otherwise known as Hi-Flow) a few years ago, and the difference is night & day. They flow about double the CFM! Nice thing is, you can stick a male "M" into a "V" coupling if you don't care about the loss of flow.
DrFiero I use a selection of hi flow fittings with large bore line on the compressor pipe and use standard plc fittings after the last trap, this works well for me and I don’t suffer with lack of volume with the tools and paint guns I use. Great points raised thanks. Cheers Trev 👍
Great Trev! I’d like to add please don’t anyone use plastic/pvc pipe! Pressure rating falls fast as temperatures rise. Also it won’t show up on X-ray in the ER . Doctors have to probe for the shards. I’ve seen it!
What do you do for oil? Just an inline filter or does your separator take care of the oil to. What is a good test for the condition or the air compressor? What is too much blow by? As always a great video. Thank you.
Steve Larsen Yes I’ve got an oil separator, the yellow hpc ones. I’m guessing that if a compressor uses oil it’s worn out to a degree... mine never needs topping up. Cheers Trev 👍
Great tips mate, just a quick query, you tend to use a damp rag to cool your welds, old boy once told me that would cause the weld to become brittle due to quick cooling and some other chemical reaction. Just wondered about your thoughts in this regard?? Is it better to blow cool air to cool them or is the damp rag fine. Thanks mate you’re an inspiration in what you can do with basic equipment, more power to your elbow mate 😉👍👌🍻
Mark. Bradshaw the old boy was right but how right was he? If you rapidly cool hot steel you will make it more brittle but this doesn’t mean to say too brittle. Watch this video from around 30 minutes on. ruclips.net/video/1tdAgTCghUk/видео.html Cheers Trev 👍
Your set up best dont recommend car radiator they were not made for such high pressure. They do sell radiators and indeed many compressors come that way. Those setups are made to withstand the high pressure.
Yes I realise it wasn’t a quote from the bible but something made up for a film, which I can’t remember the name of. Tarantino used the quote from the other film for Pulp fiction 👍
I like the idea of the drip leg... will look into that at home... however, anyone spraying, with the compressor in the shop, must duct the intake, to outside, otherwise, they will breath the compressed toxic air, (through their airfed masks,) as pump will draw from inside toxic workshop etc... this I have to do too. As for the pump outlet condenser, (similar idea to a diesel turbo intercooler), surely, this will fill with condensed water?
...loving your work Trev, you make great informative, relaxed videos, in a wonderfully British way.
That's brilliant Trev. I will be doing this for my compressor. Been looking for a cheap way to dry the compressed air so thanks for the vid. 👍🏻
Well done Trev, great explanation.
Another way of doing all this is to just run your airlines out of pipe. They will go up from the compressor output fitting, into the shop and about 6-8ft high on the wall in a horizontal run. This horizontal run will have two important features. It will be on a slight slant with the farthest end from the compressor being the highest point...so that all moisture in the line runs down toward the compressor and back into the compressor tank. The other feature is that every point where you want an outlet for air, you will have a take off line that comes off the top of this horizontal line , goes up about a foot and then makes a 180 degree turn and runs down the wall to a wall bracket and a ninety degree short pipe with an air coupler on it. The loop also prevents water from getting into your tools etc...and you can install an automatic lubricator if you're feeling fancy. This will mean that really the only place you need to drain is the compressor tank. Now...when it comes to air for the paint booth. You put in a separate dedicated line into the booth...and you go and buy a dryer canister for a plasma cutter...the canister will have a filter that will remove both moisture and oil. I've even seen a canister fabricated to hold a roll of toilette paper...and I've sprayed with that ...worked pretty good. BTW...I think your compressor needs to be a little bigger , at school I learned that a good ballpark is a 5hp single phase that can put out 14 -15 CFM @60psi. Cheers from Canada!
I'm happy to see that you're using oetiker clamps thank you for using the clamps that I make
Another benefit of cooling the air is that it is denser so, it works better. I mounted an AC condenser in front of the pulley for the pump so the fan that cools the pump also cools the condenser. The compressor unit can be located outside under a rain cover. That way the noise is also outside. The AC condenser method can also be used after the tank but it requires a water trap after the condenser. Located in the tank inlet ,the tank functions as a water trap.
What a great idea 👍🏼. Thank you 😊
very good never thought of it like this
but if you were to put an air receiver outside wouldn't that achieve the same thing
cool the air and have a drain tap?
Yes it would certainly work. The drop tube works better if you have limited space because you can fit it behind something ideally in the shade to keep it as cool as possible. Cheers Trev 👍
Am I missing something trev? Surely those scaffold pipes outside (presumably the lowest point of the system?) will be full of water by now if you dont have a water let off on them directly?
Imagine if you did something similiar in between cylinder and tank? You would pretty much never have to drain your tank, which by removing all that moisture, would theoretically mean that your steel tank should last so many more years, because it wouldnt rust!
Cool set up.
Like your idea cool lol. Ok if you start at the source very good eliminate it there. You can run it through steel pipes that run inside larger pipes and water runs inside for cooling. This however is a large waste of tap water or requires a tank and pump. The tank has to cycle cool water periodically as water heats up. These pipes are called water jackets. Trevor way is cheaper and simpler. One could of course buy a cooler radiator and electronic fan built for compressors...
I have an a/c condenser mounted to a window fan in between my pump and tank. It has a drip leg after the condenser that gets a bunch of water in it. After the tank I have 2 water traps/dessicant filters and oil filters feeding my hose reel. I still get water vapor out of my air tools. I live in a low humidity area.
I made a grid of steel air line from the compressor outlet that ends in a drip leg before going into my tank and it cools the air before going into the tank and removes at least 90% of the water before the tank. Generally the only time I get more than a few drips from the tank is in a change of weather etc.
G'day from West Australia, hmm food for thought, a condenser with a evaporator set up on it.
Use Air conditioning pump driven by the compressor motor belt some hoses a bit of gas and Walla, Dry Air 😉🙂👍👍
I like it Trev very nice buddy.
My Friend Dennis Wright built one out of a dorm fridge and a copper coil....
Hi Trev . Appreciate your videos especially as I’m learning to spray my 1969 Triumph Vitesse . I don’t have a welder and need a better water trap system . Could I use an old radiator mounted upside down on the outside wall of my garage / spray room . I would have an inlet , outlet and of course a built in drain facility . All the best
Definitely not, it will explode 💣👍
I meant a radiator from a central heating system 😱
Yes a central heating radiator is designed to run at about 1.5 bar. Your compressor will produce about 120 psi which is over 8 bar.
That’s class Trev great idea
Thank you!
Interesting system--A little different from the copper manifold variations I'm seeing everywhere all of a sudden.
hi trevor, i`m learning a lot with your videos on sheetmetal so thanks. you pretty much did a good explanation with a bit here and there but anyways if it works it works and the rest is academic. one of the few things i`d correct is air is heated when compressed regardless of the means of compressing it and blah blah :D BUT one important thing to remark is the fabrication of the drip leg as it is a pressure vessel holding the 6 to 10 kilos of pressure any bad weld could result in a nasty accident, so a pretty competent (or lucky) welder is in need, the thing can be made of threaded pipe too which can be safer for the do it yourself guy. one contraption you could check is called "the franzinator". the amount of condensation! do you live in a sub?:D i live in the desert so almost no condensation but air cleanliness is paramount for air tools and such. thanks for sharing and take care. peter.
p penca Thanks Peter 👍
Are dehumifers worth using and do they kill mold already in a room or do they just stop new mold appearing also is salt effective and ok to use in dehumifers that have crystals in the top of dehumifer when Crystal's have run out I have mold in my bedroom and I use dehumifers and I dont wanna have to keep buying more dehumifers
Tara miller this video has nothing to do with dehumidifiers but the crystals for dehumidifiers are readily available to buy online. Search for Kontrol krystals 👍
Why would you want the inner pipes in the drip leg so long?
The air from the compressor will be saturated with moisture, like a rain cloud in the sky. When that warm air hits the cool of the steel the moisture condenses into water. By having a long tube inside the air has further to travel as it’s got to go all the way down to the bottom before coming back up, giving a greater chance for condensation. Cheers Trev 👍
I'm wanting to build this for my home compressor/sandblasting setup. Do you have a list of all the parts (fittings and valves). Loving your videos
Ryan 1234 a list would be hard for me to put together sorry but if you’re shot blasting make sure you use larger bore airlines and fittings as small ones will reduce the flow too much. Cheers Trev 👍
Ingersoll rand whish they'd come up with this! Cheap and very effective. Thumbs up, man :)
The easy way to do it is tap the line from the compressor, run it through your drip leg cooling system and return into your tank. In theory it will stop any water building up and eventually rusting. Just a thought
Great advice. Just a couple of questions please..What pressure do you set your regulator at in the spray booth. Up until that you’ll have 8-10 bar running through the Pipework/ drip leg etc. Do you suffer from any pressure drop with this set up. Thank you.
lewigas290 I set the pressure to what I need. Initially I had pressure drop so I increased the bore of the air line and air line fittings to those shown in the video. I don’t have a problem with pressure drop for what I do, general painting and operating air tools etc. Cheers Trev 👍
Trev's Blog Cheers Trev. Appreciate that 👍
Trev - great vid - I think you have missed the main problem with air drying, job #1 is to get the liquid water out of the air, job done, but the other part is to get the water vapour out which is why dessicants and refrigeration units are used. When the air is compressed 90% of the heat is caused by the compression itself, beyond whatever friction heat may be added by the compressor components. Problem is, at the business end of the line (paint sprayer, plasma cutter or whatever) when the air loses its compression, all that heat that was caused by compression is lost again and causes the air to cool down considerably (this is the basis of refrigeration). When the air cools down, all the water vapour condenses and causes lots of problems. Your solution does not really help with this as all this happens in the sprayer itself. Still enjoy your vids tho, the accent alone is worth it!
The only change would be the material of your drip leg....as we saw all the rust in the water....one issue being the tubing rusting through and blowing out...hopefully while your not standing next to it and two on a nice dry spell the rust dries and completely travels through the system and into your tools and paint.....personal experience
Been really enjoying your vids! Being formerly from the west (wet) coast of Canada, I can relate to the insane amount of water in the air. I used to have to drain my tank (etc) ever day. I moved about 1200km east to what is now considered the 'desert' (even though it was -35C the other day!), and the air is soooooo dry in comparison! No more flash rusting when I've machined or body worked, etc some steel.
Though you never showed it - your air volume is only as good as your weakest point. Are you using Milton "M" series couplings on your tools? They are a HUGE restriction! I switched over to the Milton "V" (otherwise known as Hi-Flow) a few years ago, and the difference is night & day. They flow about double the CFM! Nice thing is, you can stick a male "M" into a "V" coupling if you don't care about the loss of flow.
DrFiero I use a selection of hi flow fittings with large bore line on the compressor pipe and use standard plc fittings after the last trap, this works well for me and I don’t suffer with lack of volume with the tools and paint guns I use. Great points raised thanks. Cheers Trev 👍
Great Trev! I’d like to add please don’t anyone use plastic/pvc pipe! Pressure rating falls fast as temperatures rise. Also it won’t show up on X-ray in the ER . Doctors have to probe for the shards. I’ve seen it!
Love the vid Trev. I see you like messer chups, Have you heard of the flattrakkers from Australia. You should look them up.
sam johnson thanks Sam I’ll look them up. Cheers Trev 👍
@@trevsblog Russian Surf music..
What do you do for oil? Just an inline filter or does your separator take care of the oil to. What is a good test for the condition or the air compressor? What is too much blow by? As always a great video. Thank you.
Steve Larsen Yes I’ve got an oil separator, the yellow hpc ones. I’m guessing that if a compressor uses oil it’s worn out to a degree... mine never needs topping up. Cheers Trev 👍
Good video
Pls do the air dryer video with mire specs for dummies like me 🙃🙃🙃
Great tips mate, just a quick query, you tend to use a damp rag to cool your welds, old boy once told me that would cause the weld to become brittle due to quick cooling and some other chemical reaction. Just wondered about your thoughts in this regard?? Is it better to blow cool air to cool them or is the damp rag fine. Thanks mate you’re an inspiration in what you can do with basic equipment, more power to your elbow mate 😉👍👌🍻
Mark. Bradshaw the old boy was right but how right was he? If you rapidly cool hot steel you will make it more brittle but this doesn’t mean to say too brittle. Watch this video from around 30 minutes on. ruclips.net/video/1tdAgTCghUk/видео.html Cheers Trev 👍
Painting the pipes black will increase heat transfer
Precisely why I use a second "charge" tank.
Your compressor would run a lot cooler if the fan wasn't up against the wall. Turn it 180 and let the air draw more freely through it
Your set up best dont recommend car radiator they were not made for such high pressure. They do sell radiators and indeed many compressors come that way. Those setups are made to withstand the high pressure.
I hope you know that the line from Pulp Fiction that you referenced isn't an actual quote from the Bible. Try looking it up sometime.
Yes I realise it wasn’t a quote from the bible but something made up for a film, which I can’t remember the name of. Tarantino used the quote from the other film for Pulp fiction 👍
it was good for me....
portabull 😂
It's saves the tank from rot.
Nice shirt, goes well with your _do._
_Route 66_ $.99 "tourist" special, in'it?
Gonna put surf racks on the van too, Moondoggy?
Well that was not just blowin' smoke up my skirt.
It's a shame about Cliff Richard.