Thank you, you're video, helped me. My next door neighbor is an a c man, and he said it was the contactor. The fan wouldn't wcome on and the heater either. so I knew it wasn't anything to do with the freon.
Thanks for the info! Mine starting doing this over the weekend. Sounds like it’s igniting then stalling, igniting, stalling repetitively then finally ignites and stays on fine for hours. It sounds like short cycling but with extremely short intervals as you describe. Have a tech coming out on Friday to check it out. Hopefully its an easy fix because we’re expecting temps in triple digits this weekend!
@@kalliniwasaki2910 yes!! The HVAC guy just left literally 5 mins ago! It was the Capacitor in the Compressor and he also found a dead mouse lol It was 81 degrees in my house when I first turned the air on and it’s already dropped 3 degrees in just a few mins. It’s 97 degrees here in Edison nj so I’m very thankful that it’s fixed. Hope you’re able to troubleshoot and get yours rectified right away!
Quick question, do you know during the short cycling if the fan stopped as well or the fan continues working while the short cycling is occuring? My unit has the symptoms of short cycling but the fan never stops.
low refrigerant, failed condenser fan motor can cause this too. good units have pressure switches to prevent compressor damage. it is wise to add a delay on break timer to prevent the short cycling - timer has minimum off time like 5 minutes.
Any idea why my ac condenser would turn on for 1 minute and off for 2 minutes even though it’s several degrees away from the set temperature?this started happening right after the ac guy came to check out my heater. They’ve come back about 5 more times and keeps telling me they don’t see a problem!!!! And I’ve already paid $700 for them to replace parts.
My condenser unit is short cycling after being turned on for 3/4 hours. I changed the contactor, added a new Nest thermostat, new start kit, new run capacitor. I checked the voltage on the contactor and get 24/26v. I changed my filter, no ice is visible anywhere, I'm at lost. Any other ideas than the filter dryer? My unit is 5 years old (York).
does the temp of the dryer line feel significantly different before and after the dryer (do you have a thermal gun?). I would never have replaced all those parts since it's simply something telling the contactor to open and close and probably none of the stuff you replaced. It's probably a pressure switch or something telling the contactor to open and close. I wouldn't replace the pressure switches. I'd focus on what is causing the pressure switches to activate/de-activate. I'd start with low refrigerant charge first. Clogged dryer in 5 years would be somewhat unusual unless refrigerant is contaminated. I'll let the pros comment from here.
@@YuDaMan Thank you for your input. I have a thermal gun, I'll check that out. If there is a big difference of temperature, that will help to point out to the dryer. I had a refrigerant leak that I noticed when it all started and the HVAC tech came over to change the shredder valve on the high pressure side and refilled with a pound of 410a so that should take care of this area. I noticed the leak because the condenser became really loud. I put some soapy water on the valves and it was bubbling so easy to see. And no worries, I just got this house with no history that's why I changed as much parts that I could as I like to know when and what things was change, I didn't pay much for them, had everything from my former house beside the thermostat I won at a sweepstake ;o)
@@YuDaMan So I couldn't do that as the dryer in inside the condenser and the view is obstructed by the fan motor/propeller. However I did a couple of things as I noted the battery voltage on my Nest was fluctuating from 3.80v to 3.94v while still having a C wire connected. I went to the attic and checked the wiring, the C cable was loos and dusty so I ended up cleaning the wires and snug them all back. After that it seems like my voltage was always steady at 3.92v and the condenser never power cycled again. Crossing my fingers.
@@michealbarnes66 yes, in my case I had a few things. First, a a schrader valve leak, I was loosing refrigerant. The tech came over to switch it and refilled. Everything was fine until it did power cycling again. Apparently when he came the first time, temperature outside was 70F. When it started to get over 90F, I'm assuming the pressure increased inside the unit and the issue came back. The tech actually overcharge the unit when refilling. When he came back (was >90F outside), he recovered some refrigerant and the unit has been fine since. Hope that helps.
I have an issue of the HVAC shutting down twice within 2 minutes with a weird loud noise. I captured the video here ruclips.net/video/cexJ5WV6IFQ/видео.html Any idea? All the timer shortcut are in my video description
Thank you, you're video, helped me. My next door neighbor is an a c man, and he said it was the contactor. The fan wouldn't wcome on and the heater either. so I knew it wasn't anything to do with the freon.
You should do a full vaccum everytime after replacing the filter drier, I don't think you mentioned that.
Thanks for the info! Mine starting doing this over the weekend. Sounds like it’s igniting then stalling, igniting, stalling repetitively then finally ignites and stays on fine for hours. It sounds like short cycling but with extremely short intervals as you describe. Have a tech coming out on Friday to check it out. Hopefully its an easy fix because we’re expecting temps in triple digits this weekend!
Hi Denise, my ac starting doing exactly the same thing, has your AC been fixed yet? I’m curious what this issue was
@@kalliniwasaki2910 yes!! The HVAC guy just left literally 5 mins ago!
It was the Capacitor in the Compressor and he also found a dead mouse lol
It was 81 degrees in my house when I first turned the air on and it’s already dropped 3 degrees in just a few mins.
It’s 97 degrees here in Edison nj so I’m very thankful that it’s fixed.
Hope you’re able to troubleshoot and get yours rectified right away!
Quick question, do you know during the short cycling if the fan stopped as well or the fan continues working while the short cycling is occuring?
My unit has the symptoms of short cycling but the fan never stops.
low refrigerant, failed condenser fan motor can cause this too. good units have pressure switches to prevent compressor damage.
it is wise to add a delay on break timer to prevent the short cycling - timer has minimum off time like 5 minutes.
Also could be the capacitor, and I don't think that was the problem in his case
Very helpful , I believe to have the same issue!!!
This sounds exactly like what my ac has been doing
Is it fixed? Do you know what it was?
@@cyrilazoulay9712 coils were leaking. Ended up buying new system.
@@davidthompson8653 Bummer, sorry to hear.
@@cyrilazoulay9712 all is good. Much happier with new system. Much quieter system. Thanks!
The coils in the handler inside? There wasn't an option to just replace the coils? I
Can't you just pump refrigerant in compressor and cut line and replace instead of recovering.?
Any idea why my ac condenser would turn on for 1 minute and off for 2 minutes even though it’s several degrees away from the set temperature?this started happening right after the ac guy came to check out my heater. They’ve come back about 5 more times and keeps telling me they don’t see a problem!!!! And I’ve already paid $700 for them to replace parts.
maybe bad pressure switch or same clogged filter as I had. Maybe an expert will opine. I am not an expert.
Thanks
My condenser unit is short cycling after being turned on for 3/4 hours. I changed the contactor, added a new Nest thermostat, new start kit, new run capacitor. I checked the voltage on the contactor and get 24/26v. I changed my filter, no ice is visible anywhere, I'm at lost. Any other ideas than the filter dryer? My unit is 5 years old (York).
does the temp of the dryer line feel significantly different before and after the dryer (do you have a thermal gun?). I would never have replaced all those parts since it's simply something telling the contactor to open and close and probably none of the stuff you replaced. It's probably a pressure switch or something telling the contactor to open and close. I wouldn't replace the pressure switches. I'd focus on what is causing the pressure switches to activate/de-activate. I'd start with low refrigerant charge first. Clogged dryer in 5 years would be somewhat unusual unless refrigerant is contaminated. I'll let the pros comment from here.
@@YuDaMan Thank you for your input. I have a thermal gun, I'll check that out. If there is a big difference of temperature, that will help to point out to the dryer.
I had a refrigerant leak that I noticed when it all started and the HVAC tech came over to change the shredder valve on the high pressure side and refilled with a pound of 410a so that should take care of this area.
I noticed the leak because the condenser became really loud. I put some soapy water on the valves and it was bubbling so easy to see.
And no worries, I just got this house with no history that's why I changed as much parts that I could as I like to know when and what things was change, I didn't pay much for them, had everything from my former house beside the thermostat I won at a sweepstake ;o)
@@YuDaMan So I couldn't do that as the dryer in inside the condenser and the view is obstructed by the fan motor/propeller. However I did a couple of things as I noted the battery voltage on my Nest was fluctuating from 3.80v to 3.94v while still having a C wire connected. I went to the attic and checked the wiring, the C cable was loos and dusty so I ended up cleaning the wires and snug them all back. After that it seems like my voltage was always steady at 3.92v and the condenser never power cycled again. Crossing my fingers.
Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I'm having the same problem
@@michealbarnes66 yes, in my case I had a few things. First, a a schrader valve leak, I was loosing refrigerant. The tech came over to switch it and refilled. Everything was fine until it did power cycling again. Apparently when he came the first time, temperature outside was 70F. When it started to get over 90F, I'm assuming the pressure increased inside the unit and the issue came back.
The tech actually overcharge the unit when refilling. When he came back (was >90F outside), he recovered some refrigerant and the unit has been fine since. Hope that helps.
I have an issue of the HVAC shutting down twice within 2 minutes with a weird loud noise. I captured the video here ruclips.net/video/cexJ5WV6IFQ/видео.html
Any idea? All the timer shortcut are in my video description
volume to low tp hear