Glad to see someone else is doing a video on this as well. The parts diagram is misleading. These machines don't come with 3 shims. Those are just all the shim thicknesses available from Kubota to obtain the factory spec'd timing, regardless of the actual differences in the machining on the face of the block and pump. Both of ours happened to have 2, but some machines may have 1, some may have 5. Those shims are stacked at the factory until the required timing is achieved. That's the reason for the different thicknesses available and the range listed in the spec vs. an EXACT timing target. No two machines will be exactly alike, but they should all roll from the factory within spec, albeit with a different combination of shims to get there. I considered removing both in mine, but I didn't like the idea of a gasket-maker on those machined faces after the fuel filter. If any squeezes through and breaks off in the future, it could block the pump or an injector. I wonder what the thinnest gasket material is that could be purchased and cut with an x-acto to fit.
Yeah man I watched your video and really appreciated the level of detail. I’ve been doing my own research over the last year and knew it would work as well. The gasket maker is meant to go in tight machined services like engines and transmissions. It only seals under compression like loctite. Any sealant that gets in the motor is washed away by the oil (which is minimal). You are correct on never using RTV silicone near an injection pump though. It could ruin a lot of things. So far everything is bone dry. No leaks 🙏🏻
@@RaztechPowersports Fair enough. . I agree in theory oil should wash it away vs. getting up into the pump . I'm very curious to see long term if it holds up. I may consider cracking mine open again. Wonder how much thickness the gasket sealer adds to those surfaces. It's gotta be less than 20 thou, but would be neat to try and measure it. Could potentially be done by marking the position of a mag base from the block with a dial indicator that touches a spot on the top of the pump, pulling the mag base off and setting it back in the exact spot afterwards.
@@netmagi I would say it’s definitely less than the gasket material itself. I’ll be making a bunch more videos pushing it to its limits. Have 20 acres of grass that grows like wildfire 🙃
Might be too much effort, but perhaps one could take off a few thousands to ten thou off the underside of the pump then get a shim in there as a good gasket. That way you’re able to get it to exactly the height you want.
@@beneviolence1946 yeh, about 8-10 thou off and one .2mm shim/gasket would be great, but the risk of damaging the pump is hard to stomach. They’re well over 1k new. Good reason to get that mill i’ve been eying up though :)
Between you and NetMagi, you guys will not be satisfied until I void my warranty!!! Awesome video man, I have the DT like you do and am really curious about how much power increase you would see at the PTO. It would be great if you could hook that thing to a PTO dyno.
Hahahaha we are willing to take the chance and give y’all the results. The l2501 deserves to make 35hp and be a real tractor 💪🏻 Pto dyno is on my to do list to! Stay tuned 📺
Gear drive with the ag tires. You are a man after my own heart.. Very interesting and very well done. If our government stay out of this, tractors and equipment would be better, cheaper, and last longer. Enjoyed the full watch.
Great video. I desperately need to do this to my 2501. It only has 50hrs on it but recently developed a miss under load - starts making black smoke. I have been through the fuel system all the way to the pump, can't find a single thing wrong. I'm convinced it has a piece of trash in one of the injectors - so I have to tear into it anyway. I'll implement this change while I'm at it.
i bought a new 2022 l2501 a few months ago. i pull a 5 foot bush hog in almost 5 feet of grass and small trees, 2nd gear high range with no issues! power is no problem with the 2022 model at all. i have even tried to chock it down by going faster. this is a little power house, i have no need at all for more power. pulling a hill in high gear no problem.
@@RaztechPowersports UPDATE..incase anyone wants to know. on my 2022 model i checked today, there are no shims under the pump. it has sealant you can see around were the pump seats into the block. it seems they did update for 2022... just letting ya know.
The three shims are listed because a combination of the three shims will be used to bring the pump timing into spec. It does not mean that all three shims are necessarily used.
Have seen this process in hardworking mowers that cooling systems have a tendency to run with a certain amount of debris and so be on the warmer side pushed to overheat by this mod.
I’ve seen you and netmagi do this and neither of you figured out that there’s a 0.175 shim available. Only $7 at Messicks. The shims in the WSM aren’t the only ones available. There are actually 5 sizes available.
I haven't been able to identify the 0.175 shim you mention. Do you have a link to it, or a part number? Only one of the shims for the L2501 currently offered by Messick's lists the thickness spec, and that one is the 0.35mm shim.
Thought you were doing the EGT-probe first based on your comment in the vid where I mod'd mine :P Be CAREFUL till you're reading the temps. It rises FAST.
I did but I didn’t want to post it all in one video are bore people. Video is posted now 📺. Temps have been great at one full turn out on the fuel screw at 2600 RPMs
I am going to do the mod this weekend on my 2016 L2501, and your videos have been a huge help! I have one question: What was the final throttle screw adjustment position you settled on; was it a full turn out?
Glad it helped. I settled on 3/4 out on the fuel screw. Was rolling a little to much coal while bush hogging. You still want it to burn pretty clean under a heavy load. A little smoke is okay
The performance increase is noticeable. I did turn the fuel down 1/4 of a turn. Other people have commented that the 2022 has no shims under the injection pump
I think my L3400 and the L2501 share the same base engine the d1703???? I often wondered two things, why the lower HP and the reduced operating RPM's, just stands to reason it is basically the same package, and I have never understood the comparatively lower operating RPM's, actually considered the 2501 when I was looking but I thought I'd be pushing it with the implements I already own and PTO HP, and the next choice up L3301 had the emissions junk👎
How different is the lx2610 engine, i wanna try and boost mine just a few extra HP to run my 60” tiller smoother. I know it’s okay since it shares the 3310 powertrain. I believe I have a d1305 or something
PLEASE HELP, DOES ANYONE KNOW THIS OR CAN POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION? I am wondering if anyone knows if the engine in this video that has been modified is the same as the D1703BM-DI-EF04_CN4. I have a piece of equipment that has this engine model # on a sticker that is attached to the engine and want to make sure that I can do the same modification. The sticker does also say 18.2KW and 2200rpm. Thanks
@@RaztechPowersports thank you. My background is turbo cars. So I assumed remove shims, make gasket and turn out 1 full turn to left and we should be ok
My 70's L345 factory Injection trimming is 25 DEG BTDC. Your new L2501 shipped with only 5 DEG. Thought you might find that interesting keep it up.
Agreed. This motor is very detuned from the factory
@@RaztechPowersports How do you actually measure the timing besides just taking shims out?
Glad to see someone else is doing a video on this as well. The parts diagram is misleading. These machines don't come with 3 shims. Those are just all the shim thicknesses available from Kubota to obtain the factory spec'd timing, regardless of the actual differences in the machining on the face of the block and pump. Both of ours happened to have 2, but some machines may have 1, some may have 5. Those shims are stacked at the factory until the required timing is achieved. That's the reason for the different thicknesses available and the range listed in the spec vs. an EXACT timing target. No two machines will be exactly alike, but they should all roll from the factory within spec, albeit with a different combination of shims to get there. I considered removing both in mine, but I didn't like the idea of a gasket-maker on those machined faces after the fuel filter. If any squeezes through and breaks off in the future, it could block the pump or an injector. I wonder what the thinnest gasket material is that could be purchased and cut with an x-acto to fit.
Yeah man I watched your video and really appreciated the level of detail. I’ve been doing my own research over the last year and knew it would work as well. The gasket maker is meant to go in tight machined services like engines and transmissions. It only seals under compression like loctite. Any sealant that gets in the motor is washed away by the oil (which is minimal). You are correct on never using RTV silicone near an injection pump though. It could ruin a lot of things. So far everything is bone dry. No leaks 🙏🏻
@@RaztechPowersports Fair enough. . I agree in theory oil should wash it away vs. getting up into the pump . I'm very curious to see long term if it holds up. I may consider cracking mine open again. Wonder how much thickness the gasket sealer adds to those surfaces. It's gotta be less than 20 thou, but would be neat to try and measure it. Could potentially be done by marking the position of a mag base from the block with a dial indicator that touches a spot on the top of the pump, pulling the mag base off and setting it back in the exact spot afterwards.
@@netmagi I would say it’s definitely less than the gasket material itself. I’ll be making a bunch more videos pushing it to its limits. Have 20 acres of grass that grows like wildfire 🙃
Might be too much effort, but perhaps one could take off a few thousands to ten thou off the underside of the pump then get a shim in there as a good gasket. That way you’re able to get it to exactly the height you want.
@@beneviolence1946 yeh, about 8-10 thou off and one .2mm shim/gasket would be great, but the risk of damaging the pump is hard to stomach. They’re well over 1k new. Good reason to get that mill i’ve been eying up though :)
Between you and NetMagi, you guys will not be satisfied until I void my warranty!!! Awesome video man, I have the DT like you do and am really curious about how much power increase you would see at the PTO. It would be great if you could hook that thing to a PTO dyno.
Hahahaha we are willing to take the chance and give y’all the results. The l2501 deserves to make 35hp and be a real tractor 💪🏻 Pto dyno is on my to do list to! Stay tuned 📺
Gear drive with the ag tires. You are a man after my own heart..
Very interesting and very well done.
If our government stay out of this, tractors and equipment would be better, cheaper, and last longer.
Enjoyed the full watch.
Great video. I desperately need to do this to my 2501. It only has 50hrs on it but recently developed a miss under load - starts making black smoke. I have been through the fuel system all the way to the pump, can't find a single thing wrong. I'm convinced it has a piece of trash in one of the injectors - so I have to tear into it anyway. I'll implement this change while I'm at it.
Yeah, I would definitely take the injection pump apart and make sure all the springs are good and no trash is hanging up the pistons
i bought a new 2022 l2501 a few months ago. i pull a 5 foot bush hog in almost 5 feet of grass and small trees, 2nd gear high range with no issues! power is no problem with the 2022 model at all. i have even tried to chock it down by going faster. this is a little power house, i have no need at all for more power. pulling a hill in high gear no problem.
That’s pretty interesting. My 5 foot bush hog would bog down pretty easy in pasture grass
Same here, I have no power issues with a LX2610 5’ brush hod with 3-4’ tall grass
@@00_ELECTRICWIZARD_00 maybe they made an improvement. Mine would hold 1800-1900 but just bogged
@@RaztechPowersports UPDATE..incase anyone wants to know. on my 2022 model i checked today, there are no shims under the pump. it has sealant you can see around were the pump seats into the block. it seems they did update for 2022... just letting ya know.
@@km4fsi827 thanks for the update! Apparently kubota knew this tractor was under powered and bumper the hp. Good Info
WOW. That's a lot more work than doing the same thing to a kioti ck2610. A Lot more.
The three shims are listed because a combination of the three shims will be used to bring the pump timing into spec. It does not mean that all three shims are necessarily used.
Awesome walkthrough. Nice and detailed.
Appreciate it. You know nothing is off the table to be modified in my possession 🔧
This is why I love my old L2850, she doesn’t bog down where the newer equivalent shit seems to. It’s just a great old tractor.
Have seen this process in hardworking mowers that cooling systems have a tendency to run with a certain amount of debris and so be on the warmer side pushed to overheat by this mod.
I’ve seen you and netmagi do this and neither of you figured out that there’s a 0.175 shim available. Only $7 at Messicks. The shims in the WSM aren’t the only ones available. There are actually 5 sizes available.
I haven't been able to identify the 0.175 shim you mention. Do you have a link to it, or a part number? Only one of the shims for the L2501 currently offered by Messick's lists the thickness spec, and that one is the 0.35mm shim.
@@tcgoggans I always use the IPB on the KubotaUSA site. Generally more parts and better info. The 0.175 shim is 1G866-52200. Two in stock at Messicks.
Thought you were doing the EGT-probe first based on your comment in the vid where I mod'd mine :P Be CAREFUL till you're reading the temps. It rises FAST.
I did but I didn’t want to post it all in one video are bore people. Video is posted now 📺. Temps have been great at one full turn out on the fuel screw at 2600 RPMs
I am going to do the mod this weekend on my 2016 L2501, and your videos have been a huge help! I have one question: What was the final throttle screw adjustment position you settled on; was it a full turn out?
Glad it helped. I settled on 3/4 out on the fuel screw. Was rolling a little to much coal while bush hogging. You still want it to burn pretty clean under a heavy load. A little smoke is okay
@@RaztechPowersports thanks!
Did this improve the power as you expected? My 2501 skips bad when hot and running at over 1600 rpm’s.
Absolutely. The the factory rpm is set way to low imo
I had a l2501 do the same found out the cam was bad on it
So what was the outcome from the upgrade, you did the Dino but how did it perform with attachments and overall hills?
The performance increase is noticeable. I did turn the fuel down 1/4 of a turn. Other people have commented that the 2022 has no shims under the injection pump
It looks like the previous model L2800 I believe was a 1.4L 29hp engine so not bad that we got a 1.6L 35hp engine.
Exactly. Just need to get it back to 35 hp lol
I think my L3400 and the L2501 share the same base engine the d1703???? I often wondered two things, why the lower HP and the reduced operating RPM's, just stands to reason it is basically the same package, and I have never understood the comparatively lower operating RPM's, actually considered the 2501 when I was looking but I thought I'd be pushing it with the implements I already own and PTO HP, and the next choice up L3301 had the emissions junk👎
Yeah very clearly limited the engine meet the sub 26 hp emission requirements
Is this a mechanical or electronic fuel injection?
Mechanical fuel injection, old school
Mechanical
i could not find the video with throttle adjustment. can you post the link to it
I have a 25hp kukje on my bad boy 4025. The same size engine does 35hp in their 4035
Do you think it’s possible to get 10 extra hp out of that engine?
Imo, yes
Can it lift more or is that more on the pressure side?
@@Iron_DPT that’s on the hydraulic pressure side
What is the timing modifications do exacly to the engin
I had boost mine just by unscrew the halen bolt 🤔
It’s putting fuel in the the cylinder quicker. Also a little bit more fuel
Wonder how many of these motors are like that ? Yanmar, Iseki, Daedong etc. A few more ponies would be nice 😁
A lot of companies do it
Probably need a new exhaust manifold gasket on hand just in case
I have a .3 and a .25. Do you think removing all and sealing with anaerobic sealer is too much?
I would remove both
Would any one know if this is the same process on kioti ck2610. I see people adjust the fuel screw but not the shims.🤔???
Remember, removing the Shims increases the timing on the injection pump. I’m not familiar with the kioti engines unfortunately
Did you turn the fuel adjustment screw counterclockwise and how much did you turn it?
Correct, counter clockwise. 3/4 of a turn.
🎉
How different is the lx2610 engine, i wanna try and boost mine just a few extra HP to run my 60” tiller smoother. I know it’s okay since it shares the 3310 powertrain. I believe I have a d1305 or something
PLEASE HELP, DOES ANYONE KNOW THIS OR CAN POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION? I am wondering if anyone knows if the engine in this video that has been modified is the same as the D1703BM-DI-EF04_CN4. I have a piece of equipment that has this engine model # on a sticker that is attached to the engine and want to make sure that I can do the same modification. The sticker does also say 18.2KW and 2200rpm. Thanks
o there is no impact by doing this? engine issues? rich? lean? the why would the factory design it like this initially? seems odd its so easy to do?
Detuned from the factory to be under the 25 hp threshold for no emissions
Maybe they took one shim out due to people complaining about it being smokey?
What size finish mower 5 foot or 6 foot?
6 ft. Landpride fdr 2572
738 is late too whats your point
I did 1/4 turn when I did this mod on my L2501. At 1/2 turn I was rolling coal. lol
Interesting. I do roll coal under extreme load but not under normal operation
would you say the exahust temp guage necessary?
For my testing… it was cheap insurance. No not necessary tho
@@RaztechPowersports thank you. My background is turbo cars. So I assumed remove shims, make gasket and turn out 1 full turn to left and we should be ok
@@james9862 then you’ll have no problems doing this project. Go 3/4 turn out of the fuel screw.
IT SOUNDS LIKE FIRRRE
No def 🙏🏻
It’s a 2015 L2501
So why do i just hear about it
More horse bigger tractor.. goodbye warranty
Yeahhhh No.
Hope the EPA doesnt watch this video
They just played a makeup commercial for black woman dressing for the city.. I wanted to fix my tractor but now i want to but makeup.