Been skipping over your video for a while. Definitely can’t judge a book by its cover. Excellent job, I am impressed. One of the best videos I have seen for head replacement on a 05 Neon. So impressed I am now subscribed.
I just got done doing this and i gotta tell you man... you’re a HUGE lifesaver! This video helped me 1000x more than my haynes manual ever could have. I know this video is old but it saved me hours and hours of research in 2019 so i commend you sir. You did a real service to your country. If anyone is wondering: I hit 100k in my 05 neon SXT and almost a day after that my timing belt snapped in the middle of an intersection. Bent all of my valves and was quoted $2300 for a shop to do this job. DON’T FORGET TO CHANGE YOUR TIMING BELTS KIDS!
This is what the internet was designed for. Sharing of USEFUL information. Not dumb ass prank videos and untrendy dances. On a side note, I love Neon's, great little cars, I've had 3 in my life time, all made it 300k miles. Just got another 2004 RT I'm rebuilding so its new again. For a compact car, very easy to work on, timing belt isn't even that bad and reliable. Least the 5 speeds are, my automatic wasn't too bad but wasn't as much fun.
✌I have done my 2005 Chrysler last month, successfully! Oh yes the car needed a diagnostic machine but i cleared its memory and it started! I thought about this video after all...VICTORY!!!
If you are watching this vid with the intent to work on the head or change a timing belt you need to know: These are interference engines, if the timing belt brakes while the engine is running the pistons will hit the valves, causing considerable damage, usually too much to repair. Often the cure is to purchase a good used head from a wrecker and swap them. To remove the OHC sprocket - you can make a tool from a flat bar and two 3/8 bolts to hold the sprocket while you turn the 18mm bolt. - Note: it is a good idea to manually turn the crank shaft 90 degrees CW so that all the pistons are at mid-height in their bores while you are working on the cam sprocket and timing belt, to ensure your pistons and valves do not come into contact. The plates between the rocker arms are "spacers" and these hold the rockers in line with each poppet. (check to be sure all the rockers are free to move and not jammed) The top of the valve is held with a split pair of "keepers" - note these are tapered so then have to go in the right direction. Scrape the head with non-metallic scraper and a plastic brillo pad (unless you are sending it out to be re-machined anyway) and rely on solvents more the physical abrasion to clean it. Keep all the valves in order so every valve goes back into the exact same location as it was originally, (unless you buy all new valves) and re-lap them with valve grinding compound. After all the work of taking the head off and removing the valves, take the time to lap the valves, it will make a huge difference. In your vid it does not look like you kept track of the valve locations - they will not seal properly doing this. An easy way to keep track of the valves and their locations is the make a cardboard look-alike of the head - draw on it with a sharpie the four cylinder head locations numbered 1-4 and the four valves in each, then poke holes in the cardboard with a pencil to allow each valve to be inserted as you remove them. The re-bolting of the head can be done with the original bolts, I have done this many times when the cost of the bolts could not be justified by the value of the car. (for those trying to do this job with mim cost) Do NOT turn the cam shaft sprocket with the pistons at TDC!!! - the valves will hit the top of #1, #4 piston. Put the crank-shaft at 90-degrees CW (note at 90-degrees CW all the pistons are mid-way in their bores) while the head is installed and the cam shaft sprocket is installed, when you are ready for the timing belt installation, First turn the cam shaft to line up the scratch mark with the mark on the timing belt cover, THEN turn the crank shaft CCW 90-degrees to line up the two arrows (one on the cog and one on the engine block) then install the belt WITHOUT turning the sprockets. This is an interference engine, the pistons can hit the valves,because of the angle the valves sit it takes very little effort to damage the rim of the valve and then the cylinder compression will be poor.{ I have done a top engine job several times to fix a poor compression cylinder after someones' "friend" tried to fix their head, and wow there it is yet again the edge of the exhaust valves damaged on Cylinder 1 and/or 4 from exactly this procedure. Be careful at this stage of the job, you don't want all this effort to have been a waste of your time.} When you show the timing belt installation you missed showing the belt tension set up - for those following this vid the tensioner has two arrows that need to line up to set the correct tension - another vid on just the timing belt change by Richpin shows the correct procedure here : ruclips.net/video/fdFV7LgIPqA/видео.html otherwise good informative vid to help someone to work on their own car, thanks for the post.
great job!!! people like you should be rewarded!! you really did a perfect video and I just did my 2000 neon.. runs like new!!! timing belt broke that's how I found your video. THANKS again!!!
+Shiznaft I'm really not a mechanic. I just payed attention in life. I was an electrician, which I think, gave me a lot of experience, when it comes to mechanics, but who the hell knows these days? Teach me how to be hospitable and I'll teach you how to fix your fuckin engine... I'm not very good at hospitality :)
I started with a black neon had a white one and now I have a grey one like yours... Yet I still return to the same video to keep learning ...awesome. Video .like 2 years later.
man I wish you were my friend haha. Thx for filming your process. I'm not a mechanic and have to do timing and water pump tomorrow. Love the ingenuity with your contraption 👍
MAN OH MAN. ONE OF THE BEST VIDEOS EVER! YOU HAD MY ATTENTION ABOUT 95 PERCENT OF THE TIME -NO IM GOING TO SAY 100 BECAUSE THE DAY DREAMING I DO IS REFLEXING ON SOMETHING YOU SAID SO WHEN I REWINDED IT WAS MY FAULT. YOU ARE GREAT AT IT. THIS IS JUST WHAT I NEEDED TO GET MOTIVATED TO DO A FEW REPAIRS TO MY NEON WHICH IS NOT IN BAD SHAPE BUT I AM A PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE GUY. LOVED THE VIDEO IT IS ONE OF MY FAVORITES AND THANKS FOR SHARING.
Great vid man idk why you have only 200 views but the video was nice and clear, very specific, just did the same thing to my 05 neon because of a burnt valve issue and no compression in cylinder 1, had trouble with the Harmonic balancer but it was a good 4 day job runs on all 4s now! Very nice vid my friend i appreciate this. Its hard finding videos on a in depth top end rebuild for these cars but you just added 150k miles to the engine.
King Cobra we'll…. not when you total the car 3 weeks later…..buy anyhow, I appreciate the comment. The only thing I was upset about is I didn't prime the rocker arms. I found out about that later after i made the video. Apparently, the rocker arms need to be submerged in oil and the little metal foot needs to be pumped under the oil. It had a a ticking noise after this, but non the less the neon went to the "progressive" car hell and won't be returning for another 150K :/
Eric Stillman Think you could post a video on the brake booster ? I got a hard pedal, all new vaccum lines.. flushed the fluid new rotors and pads nothing seems to work...
Little more advice for you all that watch him and others on this: watch your dam transmission lines to your radiator one will catch the transmission shift module on the transmission and brake your line and radiator. Done it 40.00 part if you can even find that high pressure line. One more thing about these cars is they have a electric issues with crankshaft and camshaft wire system. Good luck on your car.
I don't know if you're being serious or a smart ass... it kinda gets lost in translation through text. I'm just a drunk man who thinks outside the box, who hates the word "qualified" because it puts you back inside the box. I think for myself and I am surely not a mechanic. I am a tool geek though.
Whatever Eric! Your are just a master of engines! I must bring you down here in Cape Town, you will make make millions and also takes care of my Chrysler Neon for free. Though, thanks Eric, i have just replaced my drivers side (Right) engine mounts myself. But i did not replaced yet the auto transmission mount. Could that be a the reason why there is still slight vibration but only when i am stalled at stop signs and traffic lights.
Hi Eric! I am sure u are well mate! is this "Lisle 51450 Harmonic Damper Pulley Puller" the 3 jaw puller you also used? I removed the pulley pretty fast, and so wished you were a little slower cause its not a simple process.
Nice job for a guy who says he is not a mechanic. Personally, I would have changed the valve cover gasket to fix the oil leak. I really like that you did this video. That took a lot of courage. Not so much the video. Taking your engine apart like this if you're really not a mechanic. Most people would be scared sh%#$@ss. I'm going to make a few comments. Not to be nit-picky but just as pointers for future projects for you and maybe for someone else who might read this. I wasn't there. I didn't see what you were dealing with first hand. I can only go by what you showed in the video. That's why I think the oil leak was from the valve cover gasket. They are notorious for oil leaks. If your head gasket was leaking outward you would have heard it. If your head gasket was leaking inward you would have had oil in your coolant or coolant in your oil. It's also possible that it would have been leaking into one of the cylinders and you would have seen it when you pulled the plugs like you did. Why you pulled the head and disassembled it completely is beyond me. Since you did remove the head I think you should have had it checked to make certain is wasn't warped or cracked in any way. If it's slightly warped you can have it milled so that it's as close to perfect as it can get. There is less chance of cracking the head when you put it back on and torque It down. Since you replaced the valves it would have been wise to have the valve seats ground to make certain your new valves would seat properly since you replaced them too. If you wanted to get by on the cheap you could use a "lapping tool" to make sure the valve seats are smooth to perfection. That may be something you would want an experienced machinist to handle. Paying a machinist is always worth the money spent That is unless you do something to mess up their work before you get the engine back together. It can happen. Compost happens. I'm not a professional mechanic but I've done mechanic work since I was a child (literally)while working in my dad's shop. When you scraped the head with a razor blade to clean it, I think, after you scraped it, you should have used steel wool to clean everything off so it was shiny clean and had no residue. Quite frankly I seriously doubt this was your first rodeo. I'm at the point in the video where you're torquing the head bolts. You didn't mention that there is a certain order you need to follow when you torque a head. Each head has its own torque pattern. You can find the torque pattern for your engine online or in a manual, Chilton or otherwise. When you made sure the timing mark was at top dead center I don't know if you checked to see if the engine was in the Power stroke or the exhaust stroke. You do need to know. If you put an engine back together after doing something major like this and it won't start and run it may be because you have it 180 degree out. That means the ignition will spark when the engine is trying to expel the exhaust and the wrong vale opens etc. I'm not sure about your engine but the big cover you keep calling the "head cover" is or to my knowledge from many years ago, should be called the valve cover. It's not that big of a deal about what you call it other than the fact that if you had known it was the valve cover you would never have needed to buy all of the parts and disassemble the entire top end of your motor. You could have just replaced the valve cover gasket to fix the leak and been done with it. At least that's what it looked like to me from what I could see when you started out and showed where the oil leak was. I guess the main thing is that you got it all back together and it ran great. Congratulations!
@ Eric Stillman Thank you so very much for this video!!! Very big help and has given me the confidence to get under the hood of my neon. You are awesome! great video man!
Dude, fantastic, great camera shots step by step you threw that s*** back together so quick unbelievable great video I am keeping this video why because I have one of those pieces of s*** I'll be doing the exact same thing oh I had hardly wait just hardly waiting good job good video very interesting very informative I'm not s******* either
So this guy says he's not a mechanic while he takes the whole engine apart able to strip down to the very basics of the car makes a very detailed video records every little shot and angle and details needed to understand how to perform this activity while still claiming to not know anything about how to being a mechanic.
Good vid Eric, some of the terminology is off, but your audience likely don't know the difference anyway. That main lower pulley (Harmonic Balancer pulley) will come out with a high torque air impact wrench without a helper, screwdriver or putting the car in gear/brakes)
You should have called the store that changed your oil and tell them the pan plug fell out and your engine puked and they'd have to buy and install a new engine.That happened to my friend and he had a new chevy v-8 put in at no cost and his car runs way better than it ever did.L O L..
Hope you did it well, just like this master! I have ordered my valve cover gasket, seals, auto transmission mount from North Carolina to Cape Town and a have arrived a week ago. Jeez, i am yet to get time to replace those, only by myself. These guys' vids helped us learn a lot!
Although the head CAN certainly leak on these it’s USUALLY the camshaft sensor o-ring that failed. It is 98% of the time misdiagnosed as a head gasket failure. The cam sensor and o-ring is a 40$ repair. Chrysler has a TSB out on it so if you see oil, be absolutely sure to check that sensor and o-ring on the right side of the head below the Pcv valve between the head and the battery near the steel coolant pipe FIRST (because most of them had this failure and it causes a leak like you would not believe when it’s failed)... many people think it’s their head because it’s right at the gasket area but otherwise a great video and thank you! repairpal.com/oil-leak-may-develop-at-cam-sensor-o-ring-774 Ps- I also think that if you don’t want to mess with the valves and springs, send it to a machinist for 100$-150$ and have them put your new valves in and clean up the head.
Excellent I have a 2003 16v 2.0 neon time belt that broke at start up I don't know if there's a easy way to check value damage other the the obvious. Also I don't have the money. But need to get to and from work. Is it feasible to drive it
Should I or shouldn't I attempt to replace the tension pulley has been my question. You answered it for me. No I shouldn't. I'd be better off leaving it to the professionals like you. Thanks for this great video, awesome job. By the way, how long did it take you to do all that work?
What is the ground for on the back of the motor ? Diagnosing a crank but no start issue with mine... what does it ground ? I got crank, spark , fuel , can this ground being dirty or oily cause a no start? Does it have anything to do with the timing???
what's super important is not to listen to anything i say. the spring compressor was a brilliant idea. i bought all the "universal" spring pullers and not a single one worked. I was like "what the fuck can i do with this?" anyways, i made my own with the philosophy of "give me a stick long enough and i can move the world" It was socrates or plato saying crazy shit like that, but now you're dealing with self made cliff notes.
Thanks for the video! I now have a better understanding of where my oil leak on my 2003 dodge neon could be coming from. Are you in Ohio!? I would totally trust you to fix my car even though you're not a mechanic.
This guy is amazing. Mine too has some oil leaks (Chrysler Neon in our South African terms), and i had no idea where its from, but thanks to this video!
Check your cam sensor and cam sensor o-ring. They were recalled because the o-ring fails and causes a massive leak right at the head gasket area. Many are misdiagnosed as a bad head gasket and it’s usually not the case it’s usually just that little oring causing a quart per day leak in some instance. repairpal.com/oil-leak-may-develop-at-cam-sensor-o-ring-774
You don’t have to do all of this. I changed a bunch of the seals that didn’t necessarily need to be changed, but because I had the head off and they were easy to get to. You don’t have to change the water pump if you don’t want to same thing I did it because I had the head off. I think I changed the rocker arms in this video to which is not necessary. You can put the old ones back on a new head anyhow, if it were just changing the head the head that I got in the mail already had valves in it. I wanted to change the valve seals because I like a good challenge and to learn. Don’t get overwhelmed just get it done. 💪💪💪
@@wolverinemcstud194 I’m about to start on it but my main concern will probably be the timing belt when I get to it, first time so We’ll see how it goes
In the world of alcoholism time and miles don't matter. The car would still be running had I not nailed the shit out of someone else's car because they made a left turn in front of me while they were late for work. Wearing scrubs. Sorry lady nurse. On a serious note you could do this in 8 hours if you're real go getter that knows tools well, but for me the first experience lasted about a week, because I'm lazy :P
Eric Stillman I just replaced all the coolant in my 2005 neon. Do you think I should also replace the transmission fluid as well or can I just keep driving it without ever replacing it?
Cody Pancamo I have a 2005 Neon sxt I've had my neon since it had 16 thousand miles on it now it has 87,000 now I replace my transmission fluid every 30,000 miles next week I'm going to do the timing belt water pump that is definitely crucial for that engine Cody you definitely want to get that timing belt replaced if you haven't already....
I don’t even want to change my spark plugs and wires He just did a whole lotta everything I mean after he removed everything I would have just gave up Wow all I can say
They actually lock the sensor connection in place. If you notice when they're pushed in, you can press the button but it won't come out of the socket. When you pull them out, it releases it from the side the red piece goes through. It's just a fail-safe if for some reason a big bump, slamming brakes, etc causes it to wiggle and snap the connector button.
Been skipping over your video for a while. Definitely can’t judge a book by its cover. Excellent job, I am impressed. One of the best videos I have seen for head replacement on a 05 Neon. So impressed I am now subscribed.
I just got done doing this and i gotta tell you man... you’re a HUGE lifesaver! This video helped me 1000x more than my haynes manual ever could have. I know this video is old but it saved me hours and hours of research in 2019 so i commend you sir. You did a real service to your country.
If anyone is wondering: I hit 100k in my 05 neon SXT and almost a day after that my timing belt snapped in the middle of an intersection. Bent all of my valves and was quoted $2300 for a shop to do this job. DON’T FORGET TO CHANGE YOUR TIMING BELTS KIDS!
This is what the internet was designed for. Sharing of USEFUL information. Not dumb ass prank videos and untrendy dances. On a side note, I love Neon's, great little cars, I've had 3 in my life time, all made it 300k miles. Just got another 2004 RT I'm rebuilding so its new again. For a compact car, very easy to work on, timing belt isn't even that bad and reliable. Least the 5 speeds are, my automatic wasn't too bad but wasn't as much fun.
✌I have done my 2005 Chrysler last month, successfully! Oh yes the car needed a diagnostic machine but i cleared its memory and it started! I thought about this video after all...VICTORY!!!
Thanx a bunch 😃
Very good video. I like how you tell the sizes of every bolt. This is the most detailed video I’ve seen.
Got Neon SXT `05 for 400$ with same leak problem. Overall you became a savior for my car and my wallet. Thank you so much! Your videos are great!
If you are watching this vid with the intent to work on the head or change a timing belt you need to know: These are interference engines, if the timing belt brakes while the engine is running the pistons will hit the valves, causing considerable damage, usually too much to repair. Often the cure is to purchase a good used head from a wrecker and swap them.
To remove the OHC sprocket - you can make a tool from a flat bar and two 3/8 bolts to hold the sprocket while you turn the 18mm bolt. - Note: it is a good idea to manually turn the crank shaft 90 degrees CW so that all the pistons are at mid-height in their bores while you are working on the cam sprocket and timing belt, to ensure your pistons and valves do not come into contact.
The plates between the rocker arms are "spacers" and these hold the rockers in line with each poppet. (check to be sure all the rockers are free to move and not jammed)
The top of the valve is held with a split pair of "keepers" - note these are tapered so then have to go in the right direction.
Scrape the head with non-metallic scraper and a plastic brillo pad (unless you are sending it out to be re-machined anyway) and rely on solvents more the physical abrasion to clean it.
Keep all the valves in order so every valve goes back into the exact same location as it was originally, (unless you buy all new valves) and re-lap them with valve grinding compound. After all the work of taking the head off and removing the valves, take the time to lap the valves, it will make a huge difference. In your vid it does not look like you kept track of the valve locations - they will not seal properly doing this. An easy way to keep track of the valves and their locations is the make a cardboard look-alike of the head - draw on it with a sharpie the four cylinder head locations numbered 1-4 and the four valves in each, then poke holes in the cardboard with a pencil to allow each valve to be inserted as you remove them.
The re-bolting of the head can be done with the original bolts, I have done this many times when the cost of the bolts could not be justified by the value of the car. (for those trying to do this job with mim cost)
Do NOT turn the cam shaft sprocket with the pistons at TDC!!! - the valves will hit the top of #1, #4 piston. Put the crank-shaft at 90-degrees CW (note at 90-degrees CW all the pistons are mid-way in their bores) while the head is installed and the cam shaft sprocket is installed, when you are ready for the timing belt installation, First turn the cam shaft to line up the scratch mark with the mark on the timing belt cover, THEN turn the crank shaft CCW 90-degrees to line up the two arrows (one on the cog and one on the engine block) then install the belt WITHOUT turning the sprockets. This is an interference engine, the pistons can hit the valves,because of the angle the valves sit it takes very little effort to damage the rim of the valve and then the cylinder compression will be poor.{ I have done a top engine job several times to fix a poor compression cylinder after someones' "friend" tried to fix their head, and wow there it is yet again the edge of the exhaust valves damaged on Cylinder 1 and/or 4 from exactly this procedure. Be careful at this stage of the job, you don't want all this effort to have been a waste of your time.}
When you show the timing belt installation you missed showing the belt tension set up - for those following this vid the tensioner has two arrows that need to line up to set the correct tension - another vid on just the timing belt change by Richpin shows the correct procedure here : ruclips.net/video/fdFV7LgIPqA/видео.html
otherwise good informative vid to help someone to work on their own car, thanks for the post.
what about when to torque down the rocker arms? is it safe to do it with cam and crank lined up in TDC like he does?
@@blackranger900 yes.
Bro been getting ready to rebuild a 2.0 neon an this video is so helpful and informative 👌👌
nice vid. i cant believe how easy you put the timing belt back on. it has been sooo difficult for me.
Great job and great video. One of the best I've seen. Very clear instructions. Great torque specs. All around great job.
Hello..this is a perfect video and even "you arent a mechanic"..you did a great and professional job..
great job!!! people like you should be rewarded!! you really did a perfect video and I just did my 2000 neon.. runs like new!!! timing belt broke that's how I found your video. THANKS again!!!
Hi I saw u replaced your timing belt doing now on my 05 how did u get the timing set it busted water pump when tried to start it
Throughly enjoyed this, I learned a few things. Glad you posted it.
"Not a mechanic" Yeah, right. You could have fooled me. Great video and excellent demonstration. Thanks for posting!
+Shiznaft I'm really not a mechanic. I just payed attention in life. I was an electrician, which I think, gave me a lot of experience, when it comes to mechanics, but who the hell knows these days? Teach me how to be hospitable and I'll teach you how to fix your fuckin engine... I'm not very good at hospitality :)
You've inspired me to take apart my 98 neon lol
I started with a black neon had a white one and now I have a grey one like yours... Yet I still return to the same video to keep learning ...awesome. Video .like 2 years later.
Thanks for the Help! I appreciate you telling all the sizes of the bolts and nuts. Great Video!
man I wish you were my friend haha. Thx for filming your process. I'm not a mechanic and have to do timing and water pump tomorrow. Love the ingenuity with your contraption 👍
That valve spring compressor is ingenious, just pulled my head looking for tips on cleaning everything up, great video
Damn this is crazy in detail 🎉
I just had to replace my AC/Power Steering belt, but I watched the whole video. Thanks, you did a great job making the video.
I'm not a mechanic but I play one on RUclips. Great Vid!!
MAN OH MAN. ONE OF THE BEST VIDEOS EVER! YOU HAD MY ATTENTION ABOUT 95 PERCENT OF THE TIME -NO IM GOING TO SAY 100 BECAUSE THE DAY DREAMING I DO IS REFLEXING ON SOMETHING YOU SAID SO WHEN I REWINDED IT WAS MY FAULT. YOU ARE GREAT AT IT. THIS IS JUST WHAT I NEEDED TO GET MOTIVATED TO DO A FEW REPAIRS TO MY NEON WHICH IS NOT IN BAD SHAPE BUT I AM A PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE GUY. LOVED THE VIDEO IT IS ONE OF MY FAVORITES AND THANKS FOR SHARING.
Great vid man idk why you have only 200 views but the video was nice and clear, very specific, just did the same thing to my 05 neon because of a burnt valve issue and no compression in cylinder 1, had trouble with the Harmonic balancer but it was a good 4 day job runs on all 4s now! Very nice vid my friend i appreciate this. Its hard finding videos on a in depth top end rebuild for these cars but you just added 150k miles to the engine.
King Cobra we'll…. not when you total the car 3 weeks later…..buy anyhow, I appreciate the comment. The only thing I was upset about is I didn't prime the rocker arms. I found out about that later after i made the video. Apparently, the rocker arms need to be submerged in oil and the little metal foot needs to be pumped under the oil. It had a a ticking noise after this, but non the less the neon went to the "progressive" car hell and won't be returning for another 150K :/
Eric Stillman Think you could post a video on the brake booster ? I got a hard pedal, all new vaccum lines.. flushed the fluid new rotors and pads nothing seems to work...
King Cobra Unfortunately, I can only fix problems that exist. I no longer own this car. Now I am working on a 2000 Chrysler Voyager….
Eric Stillman deserves a million views! You're spot on!
Awesome job, super appreciate the camera angles and details all the way through.
Little more advice for you all that watch him and others on this: watch your dam transmission lines to your radiator one will catch the transmission shift module on the transmission and brake your line and radiator. Done it 40.00 part if you can even find that high pressure line. One more thing about these cars is they have a electric issues with crankshaft and camshaft wire system. Good luck on your car.
yeah baby! Great video by the numbers. Looks like you even did it in the middle of a desert
This is true service to society. Thanks from Kansas!
This is a master! Jeez! Surely a qualified mechanic!
I don't know if you're being serious or a smart ass... it kinda gets lost in translation through text. I'm just a drunk man who thinks outside the box, who hates the word "qualified" because it puts you back inside the box. I think for myself and I am surely not a mechanic. I am a tool geek though.
Whatever Eric! Your are just a master of engines! I must bring you down here in Cape Town, you will make make millions and also takes care of my Chrysler Neon for free. Though, thanks Eric, i have just replaced my drivers side (Right) engine mounts myself. But i did not replaced yet the auto transmission mount. Could that be a the reason why there is still slight vibration but only when i am stalled at stop signs and traffic lights.
Hi Eric! I am sure u are well mate! is this "Lisle 51450 Harmonic Damper Pulley Puller" the 3 jaw puller you also used? I removed the pulley pretty fast, and so wished you were a little slower cause its not a simple process.
Nice job for a guy who says he is not a mechanic. Personally, I would have changed the valve cover gasket to fix the oil leak. I really like that you did this video. That took a lot of courage. Not so much the video. Taking your engine apart like this if you're really not a mechanic. Most people would be scared sh%#$@ss.
I'm going to make a few comments. Not to be nit-picky but just as pointers for future projects for you and maybe for someone else who might read this. I wasn't there. I didn't see what you were dealing with first hand. I can only go by what you showed in the video. That's why I think the oil leak was from the valve cover gasket. They are notorious for oil leaks. If your head gasket was leaking outward you would have heard it. If your head gasket was leaking inward you would have had oil in your coolant or coolant in your oil. It's also possible that it would have been leaking into one of the cylinders and you would have seen it when you pulled the plugs like you did.
Why you pulled the head and disassembled it completely is beyond me. Since you did remove the head I think you should have had it checked to make certain is wasn't warped or cracked in any way. If it's slightly warped you can have it milled so that it's as close to perfect as it can get. There is less chance of cracking the head when you put it back on and torque It down. Since you replaced the valves it would have been wise to have the valve seats ground to make certain your new valves would seat properly since you replaced them too. If you wanted to get by on the cheap you could use a "lapping tool" to make sure the valve seats are smooth to perfection. That may be something you would want an experienced machinist to handle. Paying a machinist is always worth the money spent That is unless you do something to mess up their work before you get the engine back together. It can happen. Compost happens. I'm not a professional mechanic but I've done mechanic work since I was a child (literally)while working in my dad's shop.
When you scraped the head with a razor blade to clean it, I think, after you scraped it, you should have used steel wool to clean everything off so it was shiny clean and had no residue. Quite frankly I seriously doubt this was your first rodeo. I'm at the point in the video where you're torquing the head bolts. You didn't mention that there is a certain order you need to follow when you torque a head. Each head has its own torque pattern. You can find the torque pattern for your engine online or in a manual, Chilton or otherwise.
When you made sure the timing mark was at top dead center I don't know if you checked to see if the engine was in the Power stroke or the exhaust stroke. You do need to know. If you put an engine back together after doing something major like this and it won't start and run it may be because you have it 180 degree out. That means the ignition will spark when the engine is trying to expel the exhaust and the wrong vale opens etc.
I'm not sure about your engine but the big cover you keep calling the "head cover" is or to my knowledge from many years ago, should be called the valve cover. It's not that big of a deal about what you call it other than the fact that if you had known it was the valve cover you would never have needed to buy all of the parts and disassemble the entire top end of your motor. You could have just replaced the valve cover gasket to fix the leak and been done with it. At least that's what it looked like to me from what I could see when you started out and showed where the oil leak was. I guess the main thing is that you got it all back together and it ran great. Congratulations!
Nice video, I have a 2005 Dodge Neon, giving me the blues! The last year Neons built 2005!
It’s back but in Mexico and manufactured there…
I wish i could bring you down here to change my gasket too! You're amazing buddy!
How many days did you take to do this Eric?
Are you sure that you’re not a mechanic because of what I’m looking at you are doing an excellent job
Smart, entertaining, and informative, thanks for the info !!!
@ Eric Stillman Thank you so very much for this video!!! Very big help and has given me the confidence to get under the hood of my neon. You are awesome! great video man!
Молодец какой...все умеешь!!
great video dude you're awesome I have a Dodge Neon 2002 I wish you were my mechanic 👌💯👊
I just did this to mine... fun times! I heard a lot more cussing when I did it... oh, yeah, I cussed a lot.
Far beyond my ability. Good work.
A well detailed and informative video ! Your opening says you need therapy.
THANK YOU! I couldn't find a video to replace my exhaust manifold (cracked). This is helpful. Great Job!
your a really smart guy! Nice job..
Dude, fantastic, great camera shots step by step you threw that s*** back together so quick unbelievable great video I am keeping this video why because I have one of those pieces of s*** I'll be doing the exact same thing oh I had hardly wait just hardly waiting good job good video very interesting very informative I'm not s******* either
I had to save this one as one of my favorites
So this guy says he's not a mechanic while he takes the whole engine apart able to strip down to the very basics of the car makes a very detailed video records every little shot and angle and details needed to understand how to perform this activity while still claiming to not know anything about how to being a mechanic.
I’m really not a mechanic. My trade is an electrician but I do pay attention to other trades. I will make a video how I think and how it started . 😄
Good vid Eric, some of the terminology is off, but your audience likely don't know the difference anyway. That main lower pulley (Harmonic Balancer pulley) will come out with a high torque air impact wrench without a helper, screwdriver or putting the car in gear/brakes)
Great video for reference!
I noticed you skipped the part where you align the exhaust manifold with the head to reinstall it. That's like the hardest part.
Pretty good job, I got the same project, just was sorta delaying, not to much to it,, thanks man. 👊
You should have called the store that changed your oil and tell them the pan plug fell out and your engine puked and they'd have to buy and install a new engine.That happened to my friend and he had a new chevy v-8 put in at no cost and his car runs way better than it ever did.L O L..
Awesome video man!
Hasta ganas de comprar mi neon me dio
Hella good job loved it
Will be doing this on Monday. 🍻
Hope you did it well, just like this master! I have ordered my valve cover gasket, seals, auto transmission mount from North Carolina to Cape Town and a have arrived a week ago. Jeez, i am yet to get time to replace those, only by myself. These guys' vids helped us learn a lot!
@@KeithSWD it was easy you will have no problem. Doing it.👍
great step by step video . thanks for making it entertaining
31:29 LMAO that's great xD
Great job, on on your demonstration procedure. Can you please list all tools used. Thank you !
Great video man! Have the same car and this was a super usefull video for me. Saludos desde Hermosillo Mexico
Gustavo Luna you did an outstanding job regardless that you're not a mechanic you did a real good job
thanks for watching the it burns when I pee 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 that was the funniest shit I ever heard after see an awesome job man
You should of replaced the belt tensioner too it's worn out just like the water pump and of course new timing belt to they go hand-in-hand .
Although the head CAN certainly leak on these it’s USUALLY the camshaft sensor o-ring that failed. It is 98% of the time misdiagnosed as a head gasket failure. The cam sensor and o-ring is a 40$ repair. Chrysler has a TSB out on it so if you see oil, be absolutely sure to check that sensor and o-ring on the right side of the head below the Pcv valve between the head and the battery near the steel coolant pipe FIRST (because most of them had this failure and it causes a leak like you would not believe when it’s failed)... many people think it’s their head because it’s right at the gasket area but otherwise a great video and thank you!
repairpal.com/oil-leak-may-develop-at-cam-sensor-o-ring-774
Ps- I also think that if you don’t want to mess with the valves and springs, send it to a machinist for 100$-150$ and have them put your new valves in and clean up the head.
I like this guy
This video was perfect btw
for not being a mech. you are smart.
'no im talking to the camera a** hole' 😂
try replacing the cam shaft position sensor. it is known to leak
Do a transmission rebuild now
What he said
Muy bien 👍
magnifico trabajo. saludos.
Excellent
I have a
2003 16v 2.0 neon time belt that broke at start up I don't know if there's a easy way to check value damage other the the obvious. Also I don't have the money. But need to get to and from work. Is it feasible to drive it
After timing belt change of course
Any suggestions I would appreciate thanks
Should I or shouldn't I attempt to replace the tension pulley has been my question. You answered it for me. No I shouldn't. I'd be better off leaving it to the professionals like you. Thanks for this great video, awesome job. By the way, how long did it take you to do all that work?
hi dude! god video and nice work! thank´s for posting. My greating from Argentina. :)
Good job man !
What is the ground for on the back of the motor ? Diagnosing a crank but no start issue with mine... what does it ground ? I got crank, spark , fuel , can this ground being dirty or oily cause a no start? Does it have anything to do with the timing???
Smooth job man 💪 . How did you get the ground screwed back on after it was snapped? Same exact thing happened to me 🤦🏽♂️
I didn’t see you put any oil in it? 😂
isn't is super important to put the valves back in their original places? i love the spring compressor you made, definitely stealing that idea
what's super important is not to listen to anything i say. the spring compressor was a brilliant idea. i bought all the "universal" spring pullers and not a single one worked. I was like "what the fuck can i do with this?" anyways, i made my own with the philosophy of "give me a stick long enough and i can move the world" It was socrates or plato saying crazy shit like that, but now you're dealing with self made cliff notes.
They are called valve spring retainers.
Why didn't you just buy a 20 dollar valve spring remover?
sweet video.
How many days did you take to complete this AMAZING job Eric?
I just bought a dodge neon I think the same model as u have and I'm thinking about doing the same thing so how long did it take you to do all of that
Aren't you supposed to do some suction cup spin thingy on the valves ?
Thanks for the video! I now have a better understanding of where my oil leak on my 2003 dodge neon could be coming from. Are you in Ohio!? I would totally trust you to fix my car even though you're not a mechanic.
This guy is amazing. Mine too has some oil leaks (Chrysler Neon in our South African terms), and i had no idea where its from, but thanks to this video!
Check your cam sensor and cam sensor o-ring. They were recalled because the o-ring fails and causes a massive leak right at the head gasket area. Many are misdiagnosed as a bad head gasket and it’s usually not the case it’s usually just that little oring causing a quart per day leak in some instance.
repairpal.com/oil-leak-may-develop-at-cam-sensor-o-ring-774
42:07 should be inch Lbs not foot Lbs other than that good vid.
Actually the head bolts would be Foot pounds. The valve cover gasket would only be inch pounds.
What size three jaw puller did use for the crankshaft pulley?
would it be easier to remove the passenger fender before starting?
Very informative. Thanks for the post
2001 dodge neon timing mark
If it's not top dead center how do we line it up?
Good
Is this a manual transmission
Im at the part to take off the drive pulley, we put it in 3rd gear an pressed the brake but it just keep rotating any reason why
is the brake disc turning with the pulley? keep in mind without the engine on the hydraulic fluid has a harder time making it to the caliper.
Ok I just put a impact wrench on it one tap it came out hope I didnt fuck something up lmao
I gotta do all this to replace the head….FUCK!
You don’t have to do all of this. I changed a bunch of the seals that didn’t necessarily need to be changed, but because I had the head off and they were easy to get to. You don’t have to change the water pump if you don’t want to same thing I did it because I had the head off. I think I changed the rocker arms in this video to which is not necessary. You can put the old ones back on a new head anyhow, if it were just changing the head the head that I got in the mail already had valves in it. I wanted to change the valve seals because I like a good challenge and to learn. Don’t get overwhelmed just get it done. 💪💪💪
@@wolverinemcstud194 I’m about to start on it but my main concern will probably be the timing belt when I get to it, first time so We’ll see how it goes
@@wolverinemcstud194will the Tensioner need to be taken off?
would it be the same if my dodge was a automatic?
3rd gear dad...you're getting in my light...lol dont be dissin your help
Hello, I have a Neon 2.0 sohc, can I replace the Hydraulic Tensioner by this mechanic?
I'm Brazilian and unfortunately the parts are very expensive and difficult to find, could you help me with this? Lol kkk
Check on Ebay, you find them at cheaper cost
Goog video
Hey bro i had a few questions
How long did this process take and how many miles do you have on that car? Is it still running?
In the world of alcoholism time and miles don't matter. The car would still be running had I not nailed the shit out of someone else's car because they made a left turn in front of me while they were late for work. Wearing scrubs. Sorry lady nurse. On a serious note you could do this in 8 hours if you're real go getter that knows tools well, but for me the first experience lasted about a week, because I'm lazy :P
Eric Stillman what was wrong with the car that caused you to do all that work?
I had blown head gasket, but while under the hood do as much as you can
Eric Stillman I just replaced all the coolant in my 2005 neon. Do you think I should also replace the transmission fluid as well or can I just keep driving it without ever replacing it?
Cody Pancamo I have a 2005 Neon sxt I've had my neon since it had 16 thousand miles on it now it has 87,000 now I replace my transmission fluid every 30,000 miles next week I'm going to do the timing belt water pump that is definitely crucial for that engine Cody you definitely want to get that timing belt replaced if you haven't already....
I don’t even want to change my spark plugs and wires
He just did a whole lotta everything
I mean after he removed everything I would have just gave up
Wow all I can say
it's fine to pull those red things off someone told me that there just there to tell if you've been messing with the car
They actually lock the sensor connection in place. If you notice when they're pushed in, you can press the button but it won't come out of the socket. When you pull them out, it releases it from the side the red piece goes through. It's just a fail-safe if for some reason a big bump, slamming brakes, etc causes it to wiggle and snap the connector button.