I had a failed fuel gauge as well (F3680; same gauge K75162523). this guide helped a lot. In addition to re-soldering the joints after cleaning them up, I had to bridge a broken trace between the 56 ohm (the largest) resistor to where the trace disappears under the plastic frame of the meter movement. For information, the largest whitish resistor is 56 ohms and the one beside it is 20 ohms. If you test the meter after your repair using a variable power supply, note that the needle will not reach full with the sensor pin grounded if you are applying less than 12-13 volts. You can re-crimp the bezel using gentle clamping with a small channellock pliers and a piece of cardboard to protest the from of the bezel. I don't know how to post photos on this comment...
I didn't lose anything under the meter movement on mine, so since this repair, mine is still working perfectly. (I like that the fix cost me $0.00). ;-)
Thank you for the advise and video on repairing the Kubota rtv 900 fuel gauge ! Everything you presented was correct and worked Great ! Thank You Very Much !! Respectfully , Tom
Threw out a temp gauge on my ZD326 that most likely could have been fixed too. Now the temp gage on my RTV 900 is not working. I bet its the same problem..... Thanks for the video.
Holy crapola Jim! This gauge on my RTV 900 has been dinked for years and it just bugged me. I finally pulled out the gauge and took it almost apart as I could not get the circuit board out of the plastic holder. I saw the exact same burnt section of the board as you had on yours. I resigned myself to get to the dealer and buy another gauge and I thought ... best check out RUclips and see if there is any other fix. So I fixed mine identical to your fix with a pencil soldering iron and a wee bit of solder. Works like a charm! Thanks very much.
Ha! ha! I'm glad it helped. I figured it had to be something easy, as there really isn't much to a gauge. And generally the coils never die. I was more worried that the gauge was going to be good (Thats why I swapped it out with the temp gauge) Because then it would have been in the wiring. My temp gauge circuit has a problem like that, it will only work when it gets to about 60% and then the gauge pops on. Its the sensor, I'm on my second one. And as its never over-temped I've kinda stopped worrying about it. (But its still annoying.) I love the RTV though, great machine.
I diagnosed the sender was fine by unplugging the gauge and then using my "scope on a rope" or 12v test light, I connected the clip to ground and using the probe found the red/yellow wire was 12v+. I then connected the clip to 12v+ and using the probe found that the brown wire and black wire were 12v- or ground. However, the yellow/green(?) wire was not pure ground but had some resistance as the test light was not as bright as the other two wires. While holding the tester to the yellow/green I then rocked the RTV which sloshed the diesel in the fuel tank and the sender then bobbed up and down and the brightness of the test light varied up and down! Sender was fine! Wiring was fine! Gotta be the gauge! These are great machines and I own two. The 900 and an 1100 with a six foot plow and salt spreader for clearing the driveway in the winter. Cheers. Ian
I didn't even go that deep, I just swapped gauges and knowing my fuel tank was full, when I put the temp gauge in the fuel gauges place, it was on full (Hot). But I knew using the temp gauge as the fuel gauge might get confusing for the rest of the family. ;-) It was a pretty easy fix, but I should have spent more time cleaning the connections, as I know this is only going to last a few years before I have to pull it apart again. I love the rtv1100, the guy down the road has one, he beat me in a race pretty easily...Plus he has AC.... ;-)
Thanks much for posting this. I had the same problem with mine and using the same repair technique worked fine. I’m going to put a switch on mine so that resistor doesn’t have to stay on all the time (and overheat). The only other problems we have had are a failed cv boot, a cracked muffler mount, and the fuel cap is sticking badly.
Yup, I had originally thought about buying a replacement, but then I remembered that it’s the exact same oem part. That’s what prompted me to fix it. Now it’s good forever.
Your advice and video solved our fuel gauge issue perfectly . Do you happen to have any Intel. on the temp gauge ? Our 2005 rtv 900 temp. gauge has never shown any reading and the needle has always been completely to the left at cold. Recently we installed a new temp. sender , but still have the 'cold' reading . (We tested the sender by grounding it and the gauge read hot) . Do you know if our 2005 model is designed to run cold ? We're having trouble finding any info. about this . Thank you for your time and any possible direction , (again). Respectfully , Tom
Honestly, I have the same issue on mine, and never really addressed it. I know the gauge is good. (As I was using it for a fuel gauge while testing.) Like you, I replaced the sender, but no joy. Every once in a while it will go from nothing, to about half, then right back off again. My best guess was that the kubota sourced sensors are crap. Because as far as I can see, there isn’t anything else that can really go wrong in that loop that I can see.
I had a failed fuel gauge as well (F3680; same gauge K75162523). this guide helped a lot. In addition to re-soldering the joints after cleaning them up, I had to bridge a broken trace between the 56 ohm (the largest) resistor to where the trace disappears under the plastic frame of the meter movement.
For information, the largest whitish resistor is 56 ohms and the one beside it is 20 ohms. If you test the meter after your repair using a variable power supply, note that the needle will not reach full with the sensor pin grounded if you are applying less than 12-13 volts.
You can re-crimp the bezel using gentle clamping with a small channellock pliers and a piece of cardboard to protest the from of the bezel. I don't know how to post photos on this comment...
I didn't lose anything under the meter movement on mine, so since this repair, mine is still working perfectly. (I like that the fix cost me $0.00). ;-)
Thank you for the advise and video on repairing the Kubota rtv 900 fuel gauge ! Everything you presented was correct and worked Great ! Thank You Very Much !! Respectfully , Tom
Excellent! Nothing I like better than a repeatable free fix! Glad it worked for you!
Threw out a temp gauge on my ZD326 that most likely could have been fixed too. Now the temp gage on my RTV 900 is not working. I bet its the same problem..... Thanks for the video.
Well, give it a shot, the worst that can happen is you still throw the broken gauge away. At best, you save some $$$ and no one is against that. ;-)
Nice job Jim! Would be nice if someone here decoded the resistor values before they got too burned to recognize. Keep up the great work!
Yea, that would be handy for replacement. In this case, other than suffering from external arc burn, the resistor was actually fine.
Robin Fair just did that, so check his comment.
Had the same issue, The pins on mine did not even look burned but a little solder in the same spots and it worked perfectly. Thanks so much!
Craig Luce Glad it helped, that gauge is not cheap, and you have nothing to lose by giving it a shot.
Thank you so.much!!! I just fixed mine exactly as you said.saved me 70$
Not a problem at all, glad it helped.
Holy crapola Jim! This gauge on my RTV 900 has been dinked for years and it just bugged me. I finally pulled out the gauge and took it almost apart as I could not get the circuit board out of the plastic holder. I saw the exact same burnt section of the board as you had on yours. I resigned myself to get to the dealer and buy another gauge and I thought ... best check out RUclips and see if there is any other fix. So I fixed mine identical to your fix with a pencil soldering iron and a wee bit of solder. Works like a charm! Thanks very much.
Ha! ha! I'm glad it helped. I figured it had to be something easy, as there really isn't much to a gauge. And generally the coils never die. I was more worried that the gauge was going to be good (Thats why I swapped it out with the temp gauge) Because then it would have been in the wiring. My temp gauge circuit has a problem like that, it will only work when it gets to about 60% and then the gauge pops on. Its the sensor, I'm on my second one. And as its never over-temped I've kinda stopped worrying about it. (But its still annoying.) I love the RTV though, great machine.
I diagnosed the sender was fine by unplugging the gauge and then using my "scope on a rope" or 12v test light, I connected the clip to ground and using the probe found the red/yellow wire was 12v+.
I then connected the clip to 12v+ and using the probe found that the brown wire and black wire were 12v- or ground. However, the yellow/green(?) wire was not pure ground but had some resistance as the test light was not as bright as the other two wires. While holding the tester to the yellow/green I then rocked the RTV which sloshed the diesel in the fuel tank and the sender then bobbed up and down and the brightness of the test light varied up and down! Sender was fine! Wiring was fine! Gotta be the gauge!
These are great machines and I own two. The 900 and an 1100 with a six foot plow and salt spreader for clearing the driveway in the winter.
Cheers.
Ian
I didn't even go that deep, I just swapped gauges and knowing my fuel tank was full, when I put the temp gauge in the fuel gauges place, it was on full (Hot). But I knew using the temp gauge as the fuel gauge might get confusing for the rest of the family. ;-) It was a pretty easy fix, but I should have spent more time cleaning the connections, as I know this is only going to last a few years before I have to pull it apart again. I love the rtv1100, the guy down the road has one, he beat me in a race pretty easily...Plus he has AC.... ;-)
Thanks much for posting this. I had the same problem with mine and using the same repair technique worked fine. I’m going to put a switch on mine so that resistor doesn’t have to stay on all the time (and overheat). The only other problems we have had are a failed cv boot, a cracked muffler mount, and the fuel cap is sticking badly.
Bruce Lahmayer Yea, the sticking gas cap is irritating as hell, so far, all I’ve done to remedy that was use a tool to remove and install the cap.
The fuel gauge on the older UTVS is notorious for overheating and can be purchased for under 100 from Coleman.
Yup, I had originally thought about buying a replacement, but then I remembered that it’s the exact same oem part.
That’s what prompted me to fix it.
Now it’s good forever.
Your advice and video solved our fuel gauge issue perfectly . Do you happen to have any Intel. on the temp gauge ? Our 2005 rtv 900 temp. gauge has never shown any reading and the needle has always been completely to the left at cold. Recently we installed a new temp. sender , but still have the 'cold' reading . (We tested the sender by grounding it and the gauge read hot) . Do you know if our 2005 model is designed to run cold ? We're having trouble finding any info. about this . Thank you for your time and any possible direction , (again). Respectfully , Tom
Honestly, I have the same issue on mine, and never really addressed it.
I know the gauge is good.
(As I was using it for a fuel gauge while testing.)
Like you, I replaced the sender, but no joy.
Every once in a while it will go from nothing, to about half, then right back off again.
My best guess was that the kubota sourced sensors are crap.
Because as far as I can see, there isn’t anything else that can really go wrong in that loop that I can see.
Great repair Jim , May outlast the ATV .. WHO KNOWS ..LOL!! Thumbs up man..
ShawnMrFixitlee the resistors were ok, the black stuff was just cooked clear coat.
Two thumbs up.
inarainyplace thanks, it saved me a few bucks....
Windex Breath? You need the Kent Moore J stroke bla bla fuel gauge bezel swaging tool.
1crazynordlander dang, you know my trade secret now! ;-)