your right, that was 57 min of USB knowledge that I had no idea I actually needed to know. first time to this channel, I'ma fan already......... dog toenail clippers, who knew......?!
29:47 hubs that look like this are usually quite fake. 1. The power supply that ships with it is not safety rated, it often has OBVIOUS double insulation violations. It also doesn't have very good regulation or any ripple suppression. It is also usually easily cracked open by a child. The first thing you do, crack it open and cut the mains wires to make sure it's not accidentally ever used. Then you dispose of it. 2. USB 3 SuperSpeed lines are connected directly to the first port closest to the input. The rest of the ports including the USB2 portion of the first port are on a USB2 hub chain, there is no USB3 hub inside. 3. The USB input power line is connected directly to the power supply input. This is impermissible as per USB spec, as the PSU, the shitty PSU from above, will backfeed power into the upstream computer. I suggest to block or damage the power input to make sure it can't be used. Many laptop mainboards are susceptible to die from USB backfeeding. Always design your device harness such that there is no backfeeding. More properly made USB hubs will have a Schottky diode in line with USB upstream power from PC. This makes them run substantially worse without the PSU, since the incoming voltage is dropped on the diode. Generally there's a second diode to protect it from backfeeding into its PSU as well, usually you find a single sot23 component which houses both diodes. Better would be an active diode circuit which bypasses the currently active diode with a MOSFET to avoid the power loss and voltage drop, but that would be very premium. Given the lack of diode and lack of proper USB3 support, just ditch the supplied cable and give it your own high current rated USB2 cable with beefed up power wires, this means less voltage drop on the wire and better supply to downstream devices. It can be useful as a passively powered USB2 hub like this, when used on a PC or laptop which won't mind running 3A into it. Maybe don't try that with an OTG adapter on a tablet or phone :D 16:00 devices connected without PD feature will generally only draw 7.5W (1.5A) as per USB Charging spec. 26:30 the D+ and D- lines are electrically distinct from each other on every port, they are individually actively driven, they are not in parallel. They do however all live in the same time domain, it's not a packet switched bus, only one device will be talking at a given time across the whole hub chain, and the host is responsible for assigning when devices are allowed to talk. A PC USB root hub in xHCI mode is magical and doesn't obey this rule.
I’m going to study this comment and tinker a little more! This is deep expertise. Are you suggesting the hub with push-buttons shown in this section (not toggle buttons) is more compliant? I trusted it more, but I didn’t compare carefully.
@@davidmalawey Are you asking because you bought it for $10 with free shipping, and wondering whether it's genuine and properly made? Well crack it open, shouldn't take much persuasion.
Usually the ones that work are expensive. And when you get something like a USB C dock that has 2-3 usb c and few A and even a HDMI for your monitor then you will find out that the USB C on your laptop doesn't support video out. And its not like the seller who sold you the laptop is going to tell you about it, because they don´t know what they are selling. Do you need to be a fucking computer engineer that specialises in USB standard to buy a fucking laptop...
You sir, are an invaluable resource to anybody who has access to you. A true wealth of information and deep understanding of the USB standard. I'm not sure how or why your channel and this video in particular got recommended to me, but I sure am glad it did!
I honestly doubt that Apple's main motivator for their own cable is that normal usb cables are of lower quality. If Apple cared that much about quality their cables wouldn't have the problems they come with.
The lack of continuity of the shell from end to end may be intentional. In order for the shielding to function optimally, it must not provide a current flow path. By having it open at one end, it forces the interference to be shunted into the PC's ground and keeps it away from the device. Also a choke does not need to be magnetic.
Man I was beginning to think I was the only one that knew this guy didn’t know what he was talking about half the time. When he was talking about amperage at the beginning of the video I wanted to scream.
I would love to see a detailed video on PD and QC protocols, and even some of the lesser known / brand-specific protocols like PPS, FCP/SCP, VOOC, etc.... Seems like there are many useful applications for that knowledge.
25:00 You need a few more warnings about cheap cables: Do not trust the wire colors, ever. I've seen cables which use black as 5v and red as GND. Other cables use aluminum or copper-clad aluminum (CCA) instead of copper which makes them difficult to solder or connect to and greatly reduces how much current they can carry.
Don't say , "whole rabbit hole." Say instead, "entire rabbit hole." ;) Nice video. I love the super nerdy stuff. You certainly know your business. Great narration, clear communication, and excellent presentation. This was a long and wordy video, but sometimes that is required when instruction and information is what is on the plate. Thanks, and good job. 👍
I first saw your video on tapes, which was great! A tool you might consider adding to your USB 3.0+ tool for your arsenal is the Chargerlab Power-z Km003c. Maybe you already have something like this and I'll find out when you do your PD video, but either way it has been a very useful tool for my troubleshooting toolkit.
Most of the issues I have had to diagnose with my computer always have to do with crappy USB hardware. So many devices randomly disconnect during long sessions. USB standards are great in theory but no manufacturer seems to follow them.
Thank you so much for this video., this is exactly what I needed as a jumping off point for teaching myself more. I will definitely be checking out the rest of your videos!
Not 100% sure but the Ferrite air core choke is best but I believe there may be graphite in the rubber choke and give a weaker effect. But I would definitely go for proper graphite for sure! Great video as usual, you have helped me more than you will ever know! A big thank you.
Nah that's just a fake bump moulded into the sheath of the cable. If cheating a little, why not cheat a little more? Efficacy of a ferrite choke is already quite marginal.
Ferrite is an iron oxide and a poor conductor of electricity, while graphite is a carbon based ore with good electrical conductivity. It is not going to suppress HF noise like ferrite does.
@@Mad4400: Electrical conductivity has nothing to do with it at all. The beads are electrically insulated from the conductors they surround. What matters is that they are ferrimagnetic. They directly attenuate high-frequency magnetic fields - and thereby indirectly attenuate the associated electric field.
The dog and cat nail clippers work awesome. However, they don't last that long. I suspect it's because neither the joint nor the metal grade was picked with the intent of cutting metallic wire. Perhaps tempering the steel would improve their endurance. 6:05 Not sure about "magnetic", I've never seen one stick to a magnet, however they're called "Ferrite cores" or "Ferrite rings" which are supposed to reduce interference. They could be your poor man solution to not having balanced audio cables, at least according to Wikipedia although personally I didn't notice significant difference when using these cores on regular audio cables versus just the un-balanced cables without any Ferrite cores.
me: "oh those are cool cutters" David: "Oh, by the way" me: *caught off guard* David: "The dog nail clippers are great for clean cuts" me: "oh thats what they are *takes notes*"
You no longer get a USB cable with printers, and yes the fake ferrites are very common, to the point I use a magnet to check if there is any ferrite in the bulge, often there is none, only on older cables, which are kept as they reduce RFI. The printer sales are always has the most expensive USB cables near them. The cheap ones, which do the job, but are not as high a margin, are often still in the store, just far away in the corner, almost hidden away. USB charger simple way to tell if it is good or not is to get only branded ones, and not the fakes. Almost all fakes lie about current rating, and also many of them have inferior insulation, so they can break down and apply mains to the output, and many also have horrid voltage regulation. Cheap no name ones I toss in ewaste, and get genuine ones as used, often for almost free, and use them that way.
Yes, that is an electroless nickel plating not tin. And that is polyester tensile cord, though in better cables it is nylon which last less stress, not cotton. But close enough! Great video! And cheap cables are frankly not worth it. Love this channel!
There are so many special use cases out there concerning USB and all it's variants. For instance, the 3D printer conundrum of needing data only, but nearly no cable being data only. OR USB connectors on audio equipment where the form factor has been used for a "fancy" speaker wire. While it is not frequent that I come across these cases, I have on more than one occasion. The speaker thing being less than the 3d printer thing. I ran across one use case of 19v being sent across a USB cable. While it was very low amps it was 19v...and it was apparently for a specialized sensor dealing with water/environmental type stuff. That is why I say double check. Proper labels... BUT I do find all the info you have shared fairly accurate and more or less in line with what I understand. There are a lot of ways to cause issues with splitters or hubs tho. As a rule I just double check before mounting a new device. I try hard to keep PC stuff only on my PC USB, and everything else I power through one hub direct to AC instead of through a PC. I have, back when I started with the microcontrollers like rpi and esp stuff, fried a few things because I got confused with the powering options. So now I use a double check before powering anything.
As someone who recently dove to the bottom of the USB HID spec to which documentation doesn’t even exist, I asure you this isn’t more than I want to know lol
that foil shielding in the cable is very important. Long ago I repaired a cable, a DATA cable, the small area between the 2 sides I soldered together were left unsheilded. That cable wouldn't work until I wrapped aluminum foil around it and made sure both sides touched the shielding in the cable. I used tie wraps to insure a connection. ive also used that braded tubular shielding to make the same type repair, it can be soldered. I think those may have been DVI and an HDMI cables. point is shielding matters,
@25:50 sorry but USB ports are never on a bus. If they are, the device is either fake or only intended to be used with just one port (different connectors maybe). Two USB devices on the same data lines cannot work.
You need to go back and read the electrical specs for USB. Shield is only grounded at the host end. And apple have their format to get the money. Nothing else.
4:51 Those are the best one to use in an environment where you have no control over the USB Connection to prevent that you infect your device with some nasty stuff. Like in a restaurant or something like that, that offers you USB "Charging" Capabilities at your Table.
Some USB devices have software for initialisation in the connected computer. But not all computers are PC's, so it is not Windows' software. In the old days, all USB connections were strictly 5 Volt and so many milliamps. Now there is a wide variety of Voltages and Ampères but I wonder how misadaptations are handled.
a Charge cable for a flashlight doesnt need data wires when using a dumb device or a (Non USB-C PD) charger that has no use for it to begin with, if it did it likely would come with a proper cable, so i dont see that as being an issue, especially with how easy they are to get anyway. That aside, the fact you're using a super cheap bare bones USB Tester that has its own Quality issues similar to that of crappy USB Cables while doing a "USB informational video" is an issue for me. Yes they do the job of giving you a good enough idea of what you use it for even though its less accurate, but its still super cheap with its own downsides. 2nd issue being that super cheap USB HUB that looks like it came from 5 Below. That HUB in addition to the crappy USB meter are an issue and cause in itself for the voltage drop if the USB Powersupply is not the reason. I also happen to have that USB meter as a backup thus my reason for mentioning its flaws, personal experience testing with it With that said, a USB HUB like that is not built with power in mind in most cases, even if its supposedly able to handle up to 2.4A or whatever, its more for managing multiple devices more so than powering something with a decent power draw, which again is why the voltage dropped so much. Regarding USB ports on TVs, many of them in recent years are now designed with the possibility of using USB light strips if the user wants to, TVs that give you the option to turn off or keep on the USB port power when the TV is off is one example of a TV having that in mind. Other than those points, its an ok video for some USB information but some of the testing methods are flawed because of the above mentioned issues. That crappy USB meter is really triggering for some reason :/ Please get a higher quality one at some point
I do know that there's 2 different charging protocols on USB C, some devices support both but a lot of very cheap ones only support USB A adapter cables, or if you connect a USB C to A and then A to C it then works. and you do need 4 conductors to pull more than 500mA since those chargers require the data pins to be tied together with a resistor to tell the device "hey pull more current up to 5v3a" so that magnetic cable as fancy as it looks is only designed to draw 5v500mA
Thank you for this . I’ve been wanting to build my own usb 3.0 because I’m tired of 2.0 and that’s all we have in my city . I buy from online but at a point where I want to give it a shot
Some Feedback: for me the voice/ sound quality was better on the "Tape" video! But i can not say why you voice in This video is not so "clear / easy to lisen", for me. 😢 Still thank you for making the Nice long all in one video.
still working out consistent sound when i move to different locations. also I had to convert .mov to .mkv and back on some cuts - it got akward. it’s clear to me why the professional youtubers have teams to achieve good quality.
i bought one of those fancy wireless ultrasound probes from the wild west of alibaba for 1400 bucks. a bit cheaper than the 4500$ ge version which requires a 200/yr subscription. completely forgot that og usb cables came with a torroid ferite bead and used to be much thicker and last forever when you bought a 700$ flip phone back in the day.
3:24 This might in some cases be a good thing....Since some cheap chinesium cgargers have floating mains go through them, which may give you a right stinger if you're not careful.
The little circuit board with SCL & SDA is not USB, it is I2C (I squared C) for Integrated Circuit to Integrated circuit communication. You would need a USB cable with a converter in it.
I've been interested in the LaunchPad. Someone who is trying to get rid of bunch of project boards for a killer price and one of those is in there, along with a couple Uno and Pi / picos Cool to see your fixture
Great video.and looks like you have many more I will be watching. USB cables have more than I ever knew going on and this video was very educational so I appreciate you making it.
I disagree with the apple cable argument, they certainly can figure out if the cable has data and just let you know without actually using anything proprietary in the cable apple is doing it purely for monetary reasons
Basically, one get's what one pay's for. However there are those that will profess their cable is better, the actualy better cable will come with the lable as you pointed out where as those that state than are when they are not, won't have the lableing.
at 13:34 there is a black tray with what looks like slots to fit in plastic walls to make different size space for storing your calbes and other electronics in it.. what is that brand model called. or perhaps you have a link to an example of it. I am looking for somethin like that and yours looks better than anythin i have seen.
Id like to add that if you have usb to some kind of 2 wire output it could have some kind of interface converting it to some kind of 2 wire coaxial cable or audio cable.
called a choke. i got the nicer magnetic swivel from amazon with ALL the wires. if you look carefully at the data sheet before buying you can find the good stuff.
I am building weather station using an ESP32. I'd like to figure out how much power it's drawing. I would like to have solar panels power it and charge a battery that will keep the device runniing at night or dark days.
Im having trouble with the explanation that the output is 5 volts dc constant. Its pulsed. With an average of 5 volts. Its indicated on the outside of the case. Its a switch mode power supply. It doesn't work the same as a constant DC supply. Hopefully, you can explain this better than me, or correct me.
As an engineer I agree to a certain degree that OEM manufacturers can have quality over an open market of manufacturing. However, it nieve to believe that companies like Apple are doing this because they love the custom soo much that they've designed everything perfect. On the contrary, apple has some very poor designs in certain products that actually insure failure. Also, everyone ( well smart consumers) know that auto manufacturers do the same with concepts like sealed transmissions. Its a guarantee to create revenue and definitely not designed because they just love the customer so much. They love revenue and simp customers that believe everything they say. Very silly not to know this.
Exactly. When they design something proprietary it’s to channel the revenue back to the company. Also planned obsolescence comes into play. Thanks a lot Phoebus cartel. And he keeps refer to Amps as power and reading the amperage rating and saying this is how much power it’s drawing. The dunning-Kruger effect here is off the charts.
You know, when someones smiles and is hold a USB cord proadly, and smirking, and the video is under an hour long, you know your in the land of bullshit and your about get pooped on. And i haven't even watch more than 0:03 seconds of it. and i know whats about to go down. A beating you never have seen in your entire life.
This channel is awesome. "Borrow a Tolerance" made it's way to my algorithm and I've been glued to the screen since
Exactly the same here !!
Which adhesive kept you watching?
Yooo, that was this guy? I loved that video
Same!
Same!
I had no idea I wanted to know this much about USB. Thanks for doing this brother!!
your right, that was 57 min of USB knowledge that I had no idea I actually needed to know.
first time to this channel, I'ma fan already.........
dog toenail clippers, who knew......?!
29:47 hubs that look like this are usually quite fake.
1. The power supply that ships with it is not safety rated, it often has OBVIOUS double insulation violations. It also doesn't have very good regulation or any ripple suppression. It is also usually easily cracked open by a child. The first thing you do, crack it open and cut the mains wires to make sure it's not accidentally ever used. Then you dispose of it.
2. USB 3 SuperSpeed lines are connected directly to the first port closest to the input. The rest of the ports including the USB2 portion of the first port are on a USB2 hub chain, there is no USB3 hub inside.
3. The USB input power line is connected directly to the power supply input. This is impermissible as per USB spec, as the PSU, the shitty PSU from above, will backfeed power into the upstream computer. I suggest to block or damage the power input to make sure it can't be used. Many laptop mainboards are susceptible to die from USB backfeeding. Always design your device harness such that there is no backfeeding.
More properly made USB hubs will have a Schottky diode in line with USB upstream power from PC. This makes them run substantially worse without the PSU, since the incoming voltage is dropped on the diode. Generally there's a second diode to protect it from backfeeding into its PSU as well, usually you find a single sot23 component which houses both diodes. Better would be an active diode circuit which bypasses the currently active diode with a MOSFET to avoid the power loss and voltage drop, but that would be very premium.
Given the lack of diode and lack of proper USB3 support, just ditch the supplied cable and give it your own high current rated USB2 cable with beefed up power wires, this means less voltage drop on the wire and better supply to downstream devices. It can be useful as a passively powered USB2 hub like this, when used on a PC or laptop which won't mind running 3A into it. Maybe don't try that with an OTG adapter on a tablet or phone :D
16:00 devices connected without PD feature will generally only draw 7.5W (1.5A) as per USB Charging spec.
26:30 the D+ and D- lines are electrically distinct from each other on every port, they are individually actively driven, they are not in parallel. They do however all live in the same time domain, it's not a packet switched bus, only one device will be talking at a given time across the whole hub chain, and the host is responsible for assigning when devices are allowed to talk. A PC USB root hub in xHCI mode is magical and doesn't obey this rule.
I’m going to study this comment and tinker a little more! This is deep expertise.
Are you suggesting the hub with push-buttons shown in this section (not toggle buttons) is more compliant? I trusted it more, but I didn’t compare carefully.
@@davidmalawey Are you asking because you bought it for $10 with free shipping, and wondering whether it's genuine and properly made? Well crack it open, shouldn't take much persuasion.
@@davidmalawey it'd be great to see a usb hub shootout to compliment your very informative channel.
where get good usb
Usually the ones that work are expensive. And when you get something like a USB C dock that has 2-3 usb c and few A and even a HDMI for your monitor then you will find out that the USB C on your laptop doesn't support video out. And its not like the seller who sold you the laptop is going to tell you about it, because they don´t know what they are selling. Do you need to be a fucking computer engineer that specialises in USB standard to buy a fucking laptop...
I got recommended the tape video, enjoyed it, and just got this. Definitely subscribing.
I would never have known to check my cables for these deficiencies. This is excellent information. Thank you for posting.
You sir, are an invaluable resource to anybody who has access to you. A true wealth of information and deep understanding of the USB standard. I'm not sure how or why your channel and this video in particular got recommended to me, but I sure am glad it did!
I honestly doubt that Apple's main motivator for their own cable is that normal usb cables are of lower quality. If Apple cared that much about quality their cables wouldn't have the problems they come with.
For lightning a huge part of it was definitely the huuuuge amounts of money they made from licensing
Yeah, Apple cables are notorious for how quickly they wear out.
You become a trillion dollar company by selling 5 cables to each customer, and convincing them it's their fault
My experience with Lightning is that it is a s**t system. Bad quality especially the cables that came form Apple. Very expensive accessories.
Apple now uses a usb c
Well newer ones do- iPhone 13 still used lightning. I got a 16+ recently and usb-c
I just threw away like 25 lightning cords 😡
Comprehensive and useful more than i had anticipated, thank you for this fine presentation.
The lack of continuity of the shell from end to end may be intentional. In order for the shielding to function optimally, it must not provide a current flow path. By having it open at one end, it forces the interference to be shunted into the PC's ground and keeps it away from the device. Also a choke does not need to be magnetic.
Man I was beginning to think I was the only one that knew this guy didn’t know what he was talking about half the time. When he was talking about amperage at the beginning of the video I wanted to scream.
I would love to see a detailed video on PD and QC protocols, and even some of the lesser known / brand-specific protocols like PPS, FCP/SCP, VOOC, etc.... Seems like there are many useful applications for that knowledge.
25:00 You need a few more warnings about cheap cables: Do not trust the wire colors, ever. I've seen cables which use black as 5v and red as GND. Other cables use aluminum or copper-clad aluminum (CCA) instead of copper which makes them difficult to solder or connect to and greatly reduces how much current they can carry.
Don't say , "whole rabbit hole." Say instead, "entire rabbit hole." ;)
Nice video. I love the super nerdy stuff. You certainly know your business. Great narration, clear communication, and excellent presentation. This was a long and wordy video, but sometimes that is required when instruction and information is what is on the plate.
Thanks, and good job. 👍
I prefer "entire rabbit whole".
I first saw your video on tapes, which was great! A tool you might consider adding to your USB 3.0+ tool for your arsenal is the Chargerlab Power-z Km003c. Maybe you already have something like this and I'll find out when you do your PD video, but either way it has been a very useful tool for my troubleshooting toolkit.
awesome that it has an audio port! many creative ideas are flowing…😮
Most of the issues I have had to diagnose with my computer always have to do with crappy USB hardware. So many devices randomly disconnect during long sessions. USB standards are great in theory but no manufacturer seems to follow them.
A pretty concise attempt at wading through the muck and mire of USB qualifications. Nice vid.
Thank you so much for this video., this is exactly what I needed as a jumping off point for teaching myself more. I will definitely be checking out the rest of your videos!
Not 100% sure but the Ferrite air core choke is best but I believe there may be graphite in the rubber choke and give a weaker effect. But I would definitely go for proper graphite for sure! Great video as usual, you have helped me more than you will ever know! A big thank you.
Nah that's just a fake bump moulded into the sheath of the cable. If cheating a little, why not cheat a little more? Efficacy of a ferrite choke is already quite marginal.
Ferrite is an iron oxide and a poor conductor of electricity, while graphite is a carbon based ore with good electrical conductivity. It is not going to suppress HF noise like ferrite does.
@@Mad4400:
Electrical conductivity has nothing to do with it at all.
The beads are electrically insulated from the conductors they surround.
What matters is that they are ferrimagnetic.
They directly attenuate high-frequency magnetic fields - and thereby indirectly attenuate the associated electric field.
The dog and cat nail clippers work awesome. However, they don't last that long. I suspect it's because neither the joint nor the metal grade was picked with the intent of cutting metallic wire. Perhaps tempering the steel would improve their endurance. 6:05 Not sure about "magnetic", I've never seen one stick to a magnet, however they're called "Ferrite cores" or "Ferrite rings" which are supposed to reduce interference. They could be your poor man solution to not having balanced audio cables, at least according to Wikipedia although personally I didn't notice significant difference when using these cores on regular audio cables versus just the un-balanced cables without any Ferrite cores.
The thing you didn’t know name of is called a choke.
They are used very often for products in amateur radio.
me: "oh those are cool cutters" David: "Oh, by the way" me: *caught off guard* David: "The dog nail clippers are great for clean cuts" me: "oh thats what they are *takes notes*"
I have the upgraded version, Cat Nail Clippers :-)
@@sjenkins1057 Thanks I will look at those too!
Love this channel. Info dump videos and videos about your own preferences have been my favorites (like the new labels video). Thanks
You no longer get a USB cable with printers, and yes the fake ferrites are very common, to the point I use a magnet to check if there is any ferrite in the bulge, often there is none, only on older cables, which are kept as they reduce RFI. The printer sales are always has the most expensive USB cables near them. The cheap ones, which do the job, but are not as high a margin, are often still in the store, just far away in the corner, almost hidden away.
USB charger simple way to tell if it is good or not is to get only branded ones, and not the fakes. Almost all fakes lie about current rating, and also many of them have inferior insulation, so they can break down and apply mains to the output, and many also have horrid voltage regulation. Cheap no name ones I toss in ewaste, and get genuine ones as used, often for almost free, and use them that way.
Excellent content. I’d love more, David.
Can you do a video on how to truthfully measure a AA & AAA battery power and remaining lifespan? Much arguing online!!!!
Thank you for explaining it very well and very thorough. Really appreciate the electrical engineering.
Yes, that is an electroless nickel plating not tin. And that is polyester tensile cord, though in better cables it is nylon which last less stress, not cotton. But close enough! Great video! And cheap cables are frankly not worth it. Love this channel!
Looking forward to USBC and PD. Thank you! Wonderful video.
There are so many special use cases out there concerning USB and all it's variants. For instance, the 3D printer conundrum of needing data only, but nearly no cable being data only. OR USB connectors on audio equipment where the form factor has been used for a "fancy" speaker wire. While it is not frequent that I come across these cases, I have on more than one occasion. The speaker thing being less than the 3d printer thing. I ran across one use case of 19v being sent across a USB cable. While it was very low amps it was 19v...and it was apparently for a specialized sensor dealing with water/environmental type stuff. That is why I say double check. Proper labels...
BUT I do find all the info you have shared fairly accurate and more or less in line with what I understand. There are a lot of ways to cause issues with splitters or hubs tho. As a rule I just double check before mounting a new device. I try hard to keep PC stuff only on my PC USB, and everything else I power through one hub direct to AC instead of through a PC.
I have, back when I started with the microcontrollers like rpi and esp stuff, fried a few things because I got confused with the powering options. So now I use a double check before powering anything.
Thanks David for an hour well spent
I saw a reel and found your channel!! I'm a new subscriber!! Awesome stuff, can't wait to see what else you've put out.
That was a good video on USB and the different wires connected, how charging and data works.
Your channel is amazing, I've been watching for days! I hope to see much more in the future
Complete coverage, thanks.
As someone who recently dove to the bottom of the USB HID spec to which documentation doesn’t even exist, I asure you this isn’t more than I want to know lol
that foil shielding in the cable is very important. Long ago I repaired a cable, a DATA cable, the small area between the 2 sides I soldered together were left unsheilded. That cable wouldn't work until I wrapped aluminum foil around it and made sure both sides touched the shielding in the cable. I used tie wraps to insure a connection. ive also used that braded tubular shielding to make the same type repair, it can be soldered. I think those may have been DVI and an HDMI cables. point is shielding matters,
Ty .. some of my people worked at Tzi for over 26 years
Nice! This showed up in my recommendations at random, happy it did. Lots of stuff I didn’t know.
@25:50 sorry but USB ports are never on a bus. If they are, the device is either fake or only intended to be used with just one port (different connectors maybe). Two USB devices on the same data lines cannot work.
Missing indepth PD and QC protocols section, as wel as some more proprietarym brand specific USB protocols.
You need to go back and read the electrical specs for USB. Shield is only grounded at the host end.
And apple have their format to get the money. Nothing else.
4:51 Those are the best one to use in an environment where you have no control over the USB Connection to prevent that you infect your device with some nasty stuff. Like in a restaurant or something like that, that offers you USB "Charging" Capabilities at your Table.
This is so helpful! I will watch the rest later!
Some USB devices have software for initialisation in the connected computer. But not all computers are PC's, so it is not Windows' software. In the old days, all USB connections were strictly 5 Volt and so many milliamps. Now there is a wide variety of Voltages and Ampères but I wonder how misadaptations are handled.
This was an incredibly informative video .
I have many usb devices.
a Charge cable for a flashlight doesnt need data wires when using a dumb device or a (Non USB-C PD) charger that has no use for it to begin with, if it did it likely would come with a proper cable, so i dont see that as being an issue, especially with how easy they are to get anyway.
That aside, the fact you're using a super cheap bare bones USB Tester that has its own Quality issues similar to that of crappy USB Cables while doing a "USB informational video" is an issue for me. Yes they do the job of giving you a good enough idea of what you use it for even though its less accurate, but its still super cheap with its own downsides. 2nd issue being that super cheap USB HUB that looks like it came from 5 Below. That HUB in addition to the crappy USB meter are an issue and cause in itself for the voltage drop if the USB Powersupply is not the reason. I also happen to have that USB meter as a backup thus my reason for mentioning its flaws, personal experience testing with it
With that said, a USB HUB like that is not built with power in mind in most cases, even if its supposedly able to handle up to 2.4A or whatever, its more for managing multiple devices more so than powering something with a decent power draw, which again is why the voltage dropped so much.
Regarding USB ports on TVs, many of them in recent years are now designed with the possibility of using USB light strips if the user wants to, TVs that give you the option to turn off or keep on the USB port power when the TV is off is one example of a TV having that in mind.
Other than those points, its an ok video for some USB information but some of the testing methods are flawed because of the above mentioned issues. That crappy USB meter is really triggering for some reason :/ Please get a higher quality one at some point
보통 오분이내 다른데로 돌리거나 딴거하는데 15분째 보고 있다는게 내 스스로도 놀라울 따름
I didn't know you could use lesser voltage with a higher one if you had the amps to make up for it with +30% overcap. What is that called exactly?
I do know that there's 2 different charging protocols on USB C, some devices support both but a lot of very cheap ones only support USB A adapter cables, or if you connect a USB C to A and then A to C it then works. and you do need 4 conductors to pull more than 500mA since those chargers require the data pins to be tied together with a resistor to tell the device "hey pull more current up to 5v3a"
so that magnetic cable as fancy as it looks is only designed to draw 5v500mA
Fantastic information, had no idea the variation in cable construction!
Thank you for this . I’ve been wanting to build my own usb 3.0 because I’m tired of 2.0 and that’s all we have in my city . I buy from online but at a point where I want to give it a shot
I was hoping for protocol description.
it just about low level power distribution in usb
Some Feedback: for me the voice/ sound quality was better on the "Tape" video!
But i can not say why you voice in This video is not so "clear / easy to lisen", for me. 😢
Still thank you for making the Nice long all in one video.
still working out consistent sound when i move to different locations. also I had to convert .mov to .mkv and back on some cuts - it got akward. it’s clear to me why the professional youtubers have teams to achieve good quality.
@@davidmalawey mkv master race
i bought one of those fancy wireless ultrasound probes from the wild west of alibaba for 1400 bucks. a bit cheaper than the 4500$ ge version which requires a 200/yr subscription. completely forgot that og usb cables came with a torroid ferite bead and used to be much thicker and last forever when you bought a 700$ flip phone back in the day.
Hey David, at 8:18 you say the board in your hand is an arduino. It looks a lot like an esp32. Am i mistaken?
3:24 This might in some cases be a good thing....Since some cheap chinesium cgargers have floating mains go through them, which may give you a right stinger if you're not careful.
QC signals don't travel through the hub so it's impossible to get more than 5v, the QC signaling is not part of the usb communication.
The little circuit board with SCL & SDA is not USB, it is I2C (I squared C) for Integrated Circuit to Integrated circuit communication. You would need a USB cable with a converter in it.
I've been interested in the LaunchPad. Someone who is trying to get rid of bunch of project boards for a killer price and one of those is in there, along with a couple Uno and Pi / picos
Cool to see your fixture
Thank you so much for making this video, I've been looking for this info and you made easy to understand. Much appreciated and shared!
Ultra articulate. Great video!
The ferrite core is a filter or high frequency noise suppressor.
Great video.and looks like you have many more I will be watching. USB cables have more than I ever knew going on and this video was very educational so I appreciate you making it.
I disagree with the apple cable argument, they certainly can figure out if the cable has data and just let you know without actually using anything proprietary in the cable
apple is doing it purely for monetary reasons
Basically, one get's what one pay's for. However there are those that will profess their cable is better, the actualy better cable will come with the lable as you pointed out where as those that state than are when they are not, won't have the lableing.
Where do you buy consistently high quality cables and chargers? I don’t want to play Amazon roulette
at 13:34 there is a black tray with what looks like slots to fit in plastic walls to make different size space for storing your calbes and other electronics in it.. what is that brand model called. or perhaps you have a link to an example of it. I am looking for somethin like that and yours looks better than anythin i have seen.
You have earned my subscription brother.
Nice bro but you can learn more about the usb including the chip manufacturer via chipset with some other tools
10/'10 content i love usb
Do you discuss the USB 2.0 standard for music and isynchronous timing, with error detection but no error correction?
Beware, I've found USB cables that have the colors reversed for + and gnd. Red gnd, + was black.
wow ! that was very comprehensive and educative👍
Do you have a link to the USB measuring amps volts watts device
Id like to add that if you have usb to some kind of 2 wire output it could have some kind of interface converting it to some kind of 2 wire coaxial cable or audio cable.
Nice presentation. Good job.
called a choke. i got the nicer magnetic swivel from amazon with ALL the wires. if you look carefully at the data sheet before buying you can find the good stuff.
Great vid. Much appreciated. Thank you sir.
I am building weather station using an ESP32. I'd like to figure out how much power it's drawing. I would like to have solar panels power it and charge a battery that will keep the device runniing at night or dark days.
Do you have one on fastex type buckles? This is definitely a design area that could use standardization!
I always thought the cotton inside the cable was to prevent moisture and keep it dry.
Very informative, thank you!
Dude, you are awesome foe doing this video, tysm!!🙏🙏🙏
Very good. I am glad to have found you. 😅
Im having trouble with the explanation that the output is 5 volts dc constant. Its pulsed. With an average of 5 volts. Its indicated on the outside of the case. Its a switch mode power supply. It doesn't work the same as a constant DC supply. Hopefully, you can explain this better than me, or correct me.
Thanks
COOP
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5:20 - Can you cut that cable and see inside what the wire gauge actually is? I've seen a few that are as flimsy as freebies._
i found this very interesting & informative, thankyou
As an engineer I agree to a certain degree that OEM manufacturers can have quality over an open market of manufacturing. However, it nieve to believe that companies like Apple are doing this because they love the custom soo much that they've designed everything perfect. On the contrary, apple has some very poor designs in certain products that actually insure failure. Also, everyone ( well smart consumers) know that auto manufacturers do the same with concepts like sealed transmissions. Its a guarantee to create revenue and definitely not designed because they just love the customer so much. They love revenue and simp customers that believe everything they say. Very silly not to know this.
Exactly. When they design something proprietary it’s to channel the revenue back to the company. Also planned obsolescence comes into play. Thanks a lot Phoebus cartel. And he keeps refer to Amps as power and reading the amperage rating and saying this is how much power it’s drawing. The dunning-Kruger effect here is off the charts.
cool i have not heard of launchpad. thats friggin great. since other boards like rasppi arduino have gotten so expensive
outstanding ....very well done!
There was no mention of USB spec. USB design is in accordance to spec
"We know this is a good cable"
[cuts it in half] 😸👍
Where would you recommend one buy that?
Thank you for the information.👍
1 week now my computer won't boot, I get USB over current detected, system will restart in 15 secs & loops over & over ... is my Motherboard fried ?
Thank you for the video
Very interesting!
Thank you!
You know, when someones smiles and is hold a USB cord proadly, and smirking, and the video is under an hour long, you know your in the land of bullshit and your about get pooped on. And i haven't even watch more than 0:03 seconds of it. and i know whats about to go down. A beating you never have seen in your entire life.
which little usb c board is this? I need some of these