How I Did it: P320 Clean with 50/50 alcohol/water Primer P600 Clean Color Wet Sand (P1500 then P3000 if you have at least 4-5 coats or used a gun) Wet Sand (P2500 and/or P3000 if you only managed 2-3 coats) Buff w/ Hard cutting pad and ultimate compound Polish w/ultimate polish Wax and/or Ceramic Spray (after about a week of paint curing) Materials used: 12 cans of Color - 2 coats 8 Cans of Primer- 1 coat
you forgot a 2k clearcoat!!! That is why you burnt through paint. You should have applied a 2k clear, than wet-sanded, buffed and waxed it. Still turned out REALLY good though.
@@finneganfun2705 in hindsight, I think a 2K clear coat would reallly have improved the quality and durability 100%. But since this was a bit of an experiment, using 2K clear cans would have put this project over budget (At the time). If I were to do this project again, 100% I would 2K clear it.
Clear coat would give you a real nice gloss shine, and also give you a layer you can cut and buff to a mirror shine without worrying about burning into the actual paint. I have done quite a few paint spray jobs including the front bumper on my s2000 this way, I used the spray Max 2k clear on top of silver metallic paint match and it came out really super nice. Next time go two stage paint with clear will come out wayyyy better trust me. Still cool to see you do a single stage paint job, this is how they used to paint cars back in the day with no clear coat. I have an old 56 Vw that is painted like this. Very cool!
Totally! I was considering doing a 2K clear but the cost to spray the whole car was creeping too high. next time around I might just paint it properly with a good quality clear out of a gun. Or spray paint and then gun on some good clear. =P
just out of curiosity can you actually clear over this paint? i had used rustoleum red spraypaint and i layed a clear over it 48 hours later and it all buckled and had a chemical reaction
@@BK-vj1oz you didn’t give it enough time to cure. The clear will act like a solvent and wrinkle all the paint if you don’t spray it in the right time frame. It’s best to leave each coat cure for a longer period of time that way it won’t react that way.
@@crxvtec0069 yes you are 100% correct I contacted Rust-Oleum yesterday and they advised me that I either have to spray the clear coat within one hour of sprained my actual base coat or I have to wait a full 48 hours. Thanks for the response though
Don’t ever use a gloss rustoleum color if you ever do decide to rusto spray bomb your car… use a flat or satin and 2k clear over that. It’ll last much longer.
It turned out great!! If I didn't see the video I would not have been able to tell that this was with a spray can.. forget the haters clear coat costs$$ and the prices today are crazy..
I was thinking about it but its $$$ for the cans. Maybe I shoulda shot the 2K clear out of the gun but that would be cheating on a spray can paint job right?! 😅
@@HazardGarage It will also mess you up. Isocyanate is nasty stuff and whatever you see on RUclips a normal filter mask won't stop it getting in and hardening in your lungs.
@@KineticLatency yeah ive heard that stuff is extra nasty for the lungs! The 3M mask I was wearing was rated for painting, didnt smell a single scent of fumes while I had the mask on. It worked great!
@@HazardGarage I'd check the specific model on the 3M website first if you're thinking of doing 2k at some point as the last time I checked 3M did not rate any of their masks for isocyanate paints. In the UK the requirement is for an air-fed mask.
OMG you did one hell of a job. If I did not watch you spray the paint from a can I would never have believed it. I really loved your paint booth. If wood wasn't $100 for a 2x4 these days I think you would have had an easier time putting up your walls. You definitely did the right thing by covering the top. There's a lot of dust and dirt and bugs that live up in the ceiling of a garage. To be honest I would have not thought of that until starting and having things fall onto my paint. I most definitely gave you a big old thumbs up and hit the subscribe button. I figured that's the least I can do when someone goes to the trouble of making a video to help show others how it's done. I'm looking forward to watching more of your videos. I'm going to go back from the beginning with your Miata and see all the things you have done with it. Again looking forward to watching your next video.
thanks! If you can afford it, 2K clear cans would be the only thing I would do different! and maybe only primer spots that went down to bare metal or were repaired... 2k Clear: amzn.to/44CXCny
That looks great! Will be starting my car this coming friday fingers crossed the weather holds lol, (update) the weather is not going to hold lol my luck, been put back for 2 weeks straight now, strapped for time with work..
Good luck! I will add, if you have budget for 2K clear, do it! They sell it in cans but it can get a bit pricey. You really only need about 2-3 coats. Make sure you wear full proper PPE though. 2K clear is uber toxic.
Should of wet sanded the primer with 600-800 grit before applying the base coat would of helped the 3000 knock some of the orange peal of the clear coat but came out good tho
Next time, try doing it with a foam roller and wetsand in between coats and final cut and buff 😎👍. Boat primer and paint is good too. Very tough and durable and boats are painted using the foam roller method.
@@HazardGarage Can be done for sure but it's alot of elbow grease wetsanding and buffing. The tradeoff is less masking, overspray mess, and spray equipment especially an expensive compressor. One negative is you are limited to solid colors, no metallics or pearls with the roller method for obvious reasons.
just a little tip: try using a clear coat over the base coat and buffing and polish that (i reccommend using a 2k clear coat since it's way more durable than regular one)
If I use a clear coat, would I still need to sand out the orange peel from the paint before I add clear? or will the clear hide the orange peel, and then I can buff and polish the clear coat?
Luckily Rust O-Leum released a new 5 spray nozzle cans for better spray handling. And the 1 thing I’ve noticed not a lot of spray paint car guys use, 2K CLEAR!! best automotive factory results
@@HazardGarage drop a new project video, with Rust Oleum 5 spray nozzle cans and 2K clear. You’ll enjoy the results. The new can nozzle has fan spray which results in the best non professional spray gun results
On my ford ranger. I am doing something similar to this except i am not using primer. I am sanding down the clear coat and only using primer on the spots that are down to metal. I am using gloss black and clear coat finish. Then a good wax. 👍
yeah looking back, primer wasnt needed except for bondo and bare metal parts. If I were to do it again, I'd lay more coats and a thick clear coat. Also dont wax for a month or 2 to let the paint fully cure but you can use a non-sealing compound to give it some shine and cut back on some orange peel. Good luck!
everybody write in a call in and tell rustoleum to start putting all of their colors i a turbo can,that will just about take care of painting everything i own,including my motorhome,that turbo fan works real good,more colors rustoleum
did this to my srt4 took 31 cans of pain 4 cans of sem clear about $100 worth of sandpaper and tape and 3 months cause I had work and was doing it all outside with no garage... it turned out ok but my car has like permanent static cling problem now lol
Great effort with the spray cans, but you are always going to get lots of orange peel as the pressure from the cans is too low compared to a spray gun and compressor. It'll be interesting to see how the colour holds up under the summer sun! Red tends to fade more easily than most with out a clear coat. I was wondering why you didn't use a clear coat seeing how you went to a lot of trouble to build the booth and prep the car? It would have hidden some of the orange peel too. Really enjoying your series on the MX5 (sorry Miata!). Well detailed content with a splash of humour. I can't believe you don't have more subscribers!
Thanks man! Spray cans definitely is a quick and dirty way to paint the car. I was curious, but not expecting too much and didnt want to add too much cost (because at that point a gun and compressor would make more fiscal sense). If I were to do cans again properly, I would spend the money to get a bunch of cans of clear to build a nice coat that is thick enough to wet sand and buff. I really think you can make it look pretty darn good, but i think the cost/benefit at that point starts to learn towards a compressor and gun. Also glad you're enjoying the build! Appreciate you.
You should have really waiting to just buy a gallon of single stage paint and use a compressor, take it from my years of using rusto lol plus it smells bad all summer here in AZ lol
I've done more research since this project and in my opinion you dont really need to primer the whole car. Just the parts where you had to do repairs like bondo or if you sanded down to the bare metal. If the original paint is rust free, just sanding it will be good enough for paint adhesion.
No clear coat as this was a trial run. Next time I'll probably use a clear coat for extra durability and extra shine and detail. Although Rustoleum says their advanced formula is supposed to be chemical resistant and UV resistant when fully dry.
Well done, but did you not to spray with a clear laquer after ?? Im restoring a 2001 merc slk and in the process of sanding and painting a front wing and front bumper. Im going over the paint with 2000 grit then spraying with the clear !!
yeah i was trying to stay within a budget as well. With a good thick clear coat, wet sanding and buffing could have amazing results. Spray cans have a limitation!
@@HazardGarage not to mention, high end graffiti paint cans Have high pressure cans for those "quick" graffiti tags haha combined with a fat cap can make for an interesting paint job
I no longer have the car, but for the year I owned it, the color held up well (I do park it inside though). I will say that if I were to do this again, I'd use like a 2K clear because the paint itself isnt as durable against rock chips as I would have liked.
yeah the cost was creeping up on how much i wanted to do with spray cans. but definitely a nice thicc clear coat would have allowed me to make this glass!
Sorry had that stuff lying around. But I used like a $10 bottle of Meguiars Ultimate Compound and then another bottle of Meguiars wax lying around the garage!
Hey man im following this exactly pretty much. I have 320 grit and im just starting to sand. The panels dont look as grey and sanded down as yours. I even ordered those foam pads. There are parts where you still see clear cloat with bubbles still in it. Do i just need tons of force to sand that off or am i doing something wrong?
you don't really need to primer the whole car like I did. Just areas you repair with like bondo or areas that go down to the metal. You'll want to sand until its feels smooth. Sanding by hand can take a while so just keep at it. Unless this "bubbling" is actually rust then youll need a harsher grit to sand the rust out. Then maybe even bondo to build it back up. If the rust has destroyed the metal then you might need to do some metal repair as well.
opt'd out of clear coat and just went with the single stage color. Adding clear coat definitely would increase durability and gloss but would get a little out of budget for this particular project. If I were to do this again I would buy much less primer (only needed it on bondo spots and bare metal) and spend that on clear coat cans.
I did sand the primer, but the orange peel is most likely just the limitation of rattle cans but almost maybe some other stuff lol. I'm no pro painter obviously.
I think I mentioned it in the video but in case I didnt it was around like 6 or so cans and like 8 cans of primer. I bought 12 cans total and didnt use all of them.
no clear coat as I was trying to keep costs down. Although if I were to do it again, I would put a clear over it for durability. Clear is much much more durable from chips, dings, scratches and UV/weather. But in the future if i were to paint a full car again i'd spray it with a paint gun.
I waited about a week. But I think itll depend on the paint you use. (dry time, usually like 1-2 days, but read the directions on your paint). Also, I wasn't able to wetsand too much because without a clear coat layer, the paint was very thin and I instantly burned through a couple spots when I tried to use 1500 grit. I highly recommend using a clear coat but know it can significantly add to the total cost).
I no longer have the car but had it for about another year after this video. Color was still good but rock chips at the track got certain areas. If I were to do this again, I'd recommend a 2k clear coat. It adds to the cost ($20 a can....) but really only 2 coats are needed and it dramatically helps durability.
still holding up in terms of fading or color, but if I were to do it again, definitely adding a 2K clear coat would be the way to go to make the paint job more durable to chips etc and chemicals. But at that point, buying paint by the quart or gallon becomes a bit more cost effective but if you dont got the space for compressor then this option makes a bit more sense.
Thanks for watching! From my research, you can color sand single stage paints. The problem seemed to be my paint layer was just too thin (spray cans). If I could have laid some more coats I think it could have worked. 🤷♂️
How I Did it:
P320
Clean with 50/50 alcohol/water
Primer
P600
Clean
Color
Wet Sand (P1500 then P3000 if you have at least 4-5 coats or used a gun)
Wet Sand (P2500 and/or P3000 if you only managed 2-3 coats)
Buff w/ Hard cutting pad and ultimate compound
Polish w/ultimate polish
Wax and/or Ceramic Spray (after about a week of paint curing)
Materials used:
12 cans of Color - 2 coats
8 Cans of Primer- 1 coat
you forgot a 2k clearcoat!!! That is why you burnt through paint. You should have applied a 2k clear, than wet-sanded, buffed and waxed it. Still turned out REALLY good though.
@@finneganfun2705 in hindsight, I think a 2K clear coat would reallly have improved the quality and durability 100%.
But since this was a bit of an experiment, using 2K clear cans would have put this project over budget (At the time).
If I were to do this project again, 100% I would 2K clear it.
Clear coat would give you a real nice gloss shine, and also give you a layer you can cut and buff to a mirror shine without worrying about burning into the actual paint. I have done quite a few paint spray jobs including the front bumper on my s2000 this way, I used the spray Max 2k clear on top of silver metallic paint match and it came out really super nice. Next time go two stage paint with clear will come out wayyyy better trust me. Still cool to see you do a single stage paint job, this is how they used to paint cars back in the day with no clear coat. I have an old 56 Vw that is painted like this. Very cool!
Totally! I was considering doing a 2K clear but the cost to spray the whole car was creeping too high.
next time around I might just paint it properly with a good quality clear out of a gun. Or spray paint and then gun on some good clear. =P
@Lovato Art.. how many coats of 2k did you do?
just out of curiosity can you actually clear over this paint? i had used rustoleum red spraypaint and i layed a clear over it 48 hours later and it all buckled and had a chemical reaction
@@BK-vj1oz you didn’t give it enough time to cure. The clear will act like a solvent and wrinkle all the paint if you don’t spray it in the right time frame. It’s best to leave each coat cure for a longer period of time that way it won’t react that way.
@@crxvtec0069 yes you are 100% correct I contacted Rust-Oleum yesterday and they advised me that I either have to spray the clear coat within one hour of sprained my actual base coat or I have to wait a full 48 hours. Thanks for the response though
I’m addicted to this build
and the only cure...is watching more Hazard Garage videos. 😁
Don’t ever use a gloss rustoleum color if you ever do decide to rusto spray bomb your car… use a flat or satin and 2k clear over that. It’ll last much longer.
Good point. a 2K clear (after the rustoleum has cured) would/could create a really good finish! Just gets a bit $$$ lol
How many cans of 2k do you think a small car like this would take?
@@ER_666_probably between 6-10
@@ER_666_6 -8 at best
It turned out great!! If I didn't see the video I would not have been able to tell that this was with a spray can.. forget the haters clear coat costs$$ and the prices today are crazy..
Try using 2k clear nexttime! will wait for that!
I was thinking about it but its $$$ for the cans. Maybe I shoulda shot the 2K clear out of the gun but that would be cheating on a spray can paint job right?! 😅
@@HazardGarage It will also mess you up. Isocyanate is nasty stuff and whatever you see on RUclips a normal filter mask won't stop it getting in and hardening in your lungs.
@@KineticLatency yeah ive heard that stuff is extra nasty for the lungs! The 3M mask I was wearing was rated for painting, didnt smell a single scent of fumes while I had the mask on. It worked great!
@@HazardGarage I'd check the specific model on the 3M website first if you're thinking of doing 2k at some point as the last time I checked 3M did not rate any of their masks for isocyanate paints. In the UK the requirement is for an air-fed mask.
@@KineticLatency this was the 3M mask I used for the spray paint job www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000152119/
Ur channel is mad underrated
Thanks! Glad youre enjoying yourself!
This makes me very confident that I can spray my old mgb with cans 👍
Awesome! I would advise on adding a clear coat as well though for durability!
Sick job bro, a light sand between color coats makes a huge difference for me
I'm gonna need more paint lol
That came out great! This video makes me want to paint my NA
Thanks! It definitely turned out better than I thought. Still with its faults, but not bad lol
just make sure you put clear coat on it so it doesnt actually look like shit
That looks fantastic, ive got a 1952 ford F6 that I'm repainting the interior on. Love it
Thanks! 😀
OMG you did one hell of a job. If I did not watch you spray the paint from a can I would never have believed it. I really loved your paint booth. If wood wasn't $100 for a 2x4 these days I think you would have had an easier time putting up your walls. You definitely did the right thing by covering the top. There's a lot of dust and dirt and bugs that live up in the ceiling of a garage. To be honest I would have not thought of that until starting and having things fall onto my paint.
I most definitely gave you a big old thumbs up and hit the subscribe button. I figured that's the least I can do when someone goes to the trouble of making a video to help show others how it's done. I'm looking forward to watching more of your videos. I'm going to go back from the beginning with your Miata and see all the things you have done with it. Again looking forward to watching your next video.
Thanks! glad you found it enjoyable and much appreciation for the support!
Very informative! Can't wait to paint my SUV deciding between Rust-Oleum smoke grey versus charcoal grey, great video.
thanks! If you can afford it, 2K clear cans would be the only thing I would do different! and maybe only primer spots that went down to bare metal or were repaired...
2k Clear: amzn.to/44CXCny
That looks great! Will be starting my car this coming friday fingers crossed the weather holds lol, (update) the weather is not going to hold lol my luck, been put back for 2 weeks straight now, strapped for time with work..
Good luck! I will add, if you have budget for 2K clear, do it! They sell it in cans but it can get a bit pricey. You really only need about 2-3 coats. Make sure you wear full proper PPE though. 2K clear is uber toxic.
i painted my spitfire derusto regal red in the 80s still looks great
You did a great job especially for spray cans
Thanks Mike! I am fairly proud of it for being a rattle can job. 😁
Should of wet sanded the primer with 600-800 grit before applying the base coat would of helped the 3000 knock some of the orange peal of the clear coat but came out good tho
Next time, try doing it with a foam roller and wetsand in between coats and final cut and buff 😎👍. Boat primer and paint is good too. Very tough and durable and boats are painted using the foam roller method.
I have heard of this! some one was able to get like mirror finish but it sounds like he knew what he was doing lol
@@HazardGarage Can be done for sure but it's alot of elbow grease wetsanding and buffing. The tradeoff is less masking, overspray mess, and spray equipment especially an expensive compressor. One negative is you are limited to solid colors, no metallics or pearls with the roller method for obvious reasons.
You did an awsome job...it turned out very nice!
thanks! not bad for some rattle cans right? 😁😁
Not bad for thin layer of paint . Enjoy your pink and orange car. I got red fit polish wax it . It fade bad because of red.
From what it was and how it looks now great job my friend! 👍🤙🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
just a little tip: try using a clear coat over the base coat and buffing and polish that (i reccommend using a 2k clear coat since it's way more durable than regular one)
If I use a clear coat, would I still need to sand out the orange peel from the paint before I add clear? or will the clear hide the orange peel, and then I can buff and polish the clear coat?
@@JBHoughtaling sorry for the late responce lol just buff the clear
@@ZioFrankekko That's what I ended up doing lol, thanks
Luckily Rust O-Leum released a new 5 spray nozzle cans for better spray handling. And the 1 thing I’ve noticed not a lot of spray paint car guys use, 2K CLEAR!! best automotive factory results
if I were to do this again. DEFINITELY 2K clear. I resprayed my BMW M3 with cans and 2K clear had an amazing and strong finish.
@@HazardGarage drop a new project video, with Rust Oleum 5 spray nozzle cans and 2K clear. You’ll enjoy the results. The new can nozzle has fan spray which results in the best non professional spray gun results
@@TienBuilds thanks for the suggestion. If the opportunity comes up soon, I definitely will!
Wow...awesome job
Thanks!
legit, really good job.
thanks!
On my ford ranger. I am doing something similar to this except i am not using primer. I am sanding down the clear coat and only using primer on the spots that are down to metal. I am using gloss black and clear coat finish. Then a good wax. 👍
yeah looking back, primer wasnt needed except for bondo and bare metal parts. If I were to do it again, I'd lay more coats and a thick clear coat.
Also dont wax for a month or 2 to let the paint fully cure but you can use a non-sealing compound to give it some shine and cut back on some orange peel. Good luck!
Looks great. Next time Will come out even better.
always learning. always improving! 💪
everybody write in a call in and tell rustoleum to start putting all of their colors i a turbo can,that will just about take care of painting everything i own,including my motorhome,that turbo fan works real good,more colors rustoleum
turbo cans would definitely speed things up!
@@HazardGarage yeah its industrial paint,that's to protect their reputation,us asking for more colors is a win win
Awesome improvement - great job - thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
did this to my srt4 took 31 cans of pain 4 cans of sem clear about $100 worth of sandpaper and tape and 3 months cause I had work and was doing it all outside with no garage... it turned out ok but my car has like permanent static cling problem now lol
painting is a lot of work especially w/out the right equipment or location. Dont know about that static cling though lolol
Great effort with the spray cans, but you are always going to get lots of orange peel as the pressure from the cans is too low compared to a spray gun and compressor. It'll be interesting to see how the colour holds up under the summer sun! Red tends to fade more easily than most with out a clear coat.
I was wondering why you didn't use a clear coat seeing how you went to a lot of trouble to build the booth and prep the car? It would have hidden some of the orange peel too.
Really enjoying your series on the MX5 (sorry Miata!). Well detailed content with a splash of humour. I can't believe you don't have more subscribers!
Thanks man! Spray cans definitely is a quick and dirty way to paint the car. I was curious, but not expecting too much and didnt want to add too much cost (because at that point a gun and compressor would make more fiscal sense). If I were to do cans again properly, I would spend the money to get a bunch of cans of clear to build a nice coat that is thick enough to wet sand and buff. I really think you can make it look pretty darn good, but i think the cost/benefit at that point starts to learn towards a compressor and gun.
Also glad you're enjoying the build! Appreciate you.
Love it
2x has good coverage better than turbo
Beautiful 🤙
Thanks! Not bad for some spray cans I think lol
You should have really waiting to just buy a gallon of single stage paint and use a compressor, take it from my years of using rusto lol plus it smells bad all summer here in AZ lol
😅😅😅 Yeah after this experience I think I'll do that next time around.
Shit looks clean
thanks my dude! You thinking about doing something like this in the future?
@@HazardGarage yea I’m wanting to buy a car with a crappy paint job and just do this
Man. That came out dam good
The Miata has white primer. Supposed to make a difference. I have one which I am thinking about rattle canning.
I've done more research since this project and in my opinion you dont really need to primer the whole car. Just the parts where you had to do repairs like bondo or if you sanded down to the bare metal. If the original paint is rust free, just sanding it will be good enough for paint adhesion.
Next time buy the Rustoleum Turbo Primer so you wouldnt have to buy so much cans. Otherwise good job bro keep it up
thanks! yeah i think i remember seeing some examples of how much primer those turbo cans put out. definitely would have been interesting
Next do it with a brush
you know, I have always been curious about that method.. 🤔
2 light coats 1 heaven base. 2 light coats 1 heaven 2k clear . Buff and polish .
Did you use a clear coat at all or spray clearcoat?
No clear coat as this was a trial run. Next time I'll probably use a clear coat for extra durability and extra shine and detail.
Although Rustoleum says their advanced formula is supposed to be chemical resistant and UV resistant when fully dry.
Well done, but did you not to spray with a clear laquer after ??
Im restoring a 2001 merc slk and in the process of sanding and painting a front wing and front bumper. Im going over the paint with 2000 grit then spraying with the clear !!
yeah i was trying to stay within a budget as well. With a good thick clear coat, wet sanding and buffing could have amazing results. Spray cans have a limitation!
Yooooo I've always wondered is a NY Fat Cap for graffiti would work good for painting a car haha good shit dude
lol I had the epiphany when watching an artist do a mural and was like...wait a minute...
@@HazardGarage not to mention, high end graffiti paint cans Have high pressure cans for those "quick" graffiti tags haha combined with a fat cap can make for an interesting paint job
@@sergioa9097 oh yeah ive seen those cans! Similar to the rustoluem turbo cans. But they lay a TON of paint lol
Why didn't you sand the filler primer?
I did off camera with 600 grit.
There are 2x spray cans, can they be used?
yes they can!
Is is still looking good? Or has some problems with the paint?
I no longer have the car, but for the year I owned it, the color held up well (I do park it inside though).
I will say that if I were to do this again, I'd use like a 2K clear because the paint itself isnt as durable against rock chips as I would have liked.
You should have put a clear coat on it then sand down with 2000 grit
yeah the cost was creeping up on how much i wanted to do with spray cans. but definitely a nice thicc clear coat would have allowed me to make this glass!
you forgot to mention the stuff you spend/use for buffing/polishing
Sorry had that stuff lying around. But I used like a $10 bottle of Meguiars Ultimate Compound and then another bottle of Meguiars wax lying around the garage!
@@HazardGarage Thanx!
Hey man im following this exactly pretty much. I have 320 grit and im just starting to sand. The panels dont look as grey and sanded down as yours. I even ordered those foam pads. There are parts where you still see clear cloat with bubbles still in it. Do i just need tons of force to sand that off or am i doing something wrong?
you don't really need to primer the whole car like I did. Just areas you repair with like bondo or areas that go down to the metal. You'll want to sand until its feels smooth. Sanding by hand can take a while so just keep at it. Unless this "bubbling" is actually rust then youll need a harsher grit to sand the rust out. Then maybe even bondo to build it back up. If the rust has destroyed the metal then you might need to do some metal repair as well.
Needs new uncut fenders
What happened to clear coat ?
For cost reasons I skipped it. But if I were to do it again, I'd definitely do the clear coat.
Use ceramic coating to give it a nice finish and protection
Love ceramic and Graphene coatings. amazing stuff!
what about the clearcoat ?
opt'd out of clear coat and just went with the single stage color. Adding clear coat definitely would increase durability and gloss but would get a little out of budget for this particular project. If I were to do this again I would buy much less primer (only needed it on bondo spots and bare metal) and spend that on clear coat cans.
All the orange peel is probably the primer you didn't send the primer
I did sand the primer, but the orange peel is most likely just the limitation of rattle cans but almost maybe some other stuff lol. I'm no pro painter obviously.
👍👍👍🌵🌵🌵
😀🤙
Nice job sir.
Can you send me the code for this can paint.
Thanks.
the color from Rustoleum is called "sunrise red"
Ok thank you again.
How many cans of paint did you use
I think I mentioned it in the video but in case I didnt it was around like 6 or so cans and like 8 cans of primer. I bought 12 cans total and didnt use all of them.
Nice. I have yet to see someone can paint a car worth over 10k. Why?????
I figured if it didnt turn out as good, then I could always do it properly after. And I was curious to see for myself!
Aint nothin wrong with a rattlecan paint job. New supercharger, or paint some classist snob approves of? Hmmmm...
No clear coat?
no clear coat as I was trying to keep costs down. Although if I were to do it again, I would put a clear over it for durability. Clear is much much more durable from chips, dings, scratches and UV/weather.
But in the future if i were to paint a full car again i'd spray it with a paint gun.
@@HazardGarage Came out good and clean though. Good job on it
@@JG-cj4db thanks!
curious how long it took to cure? Did you have to wait a while before doing the wet sand?
I waited about a week. But I think itll depend on the paint you use. (dry time, usually like 1-2 days, but read the directions on your paint). Also, I wasn't able to wetsand too much because without a clear coat layer, the paint was very thin and I instantly burned through a couple spots when I tried to use 1500 grit. I highly recommend using a clear coat but know it can significantly add to the total cost).
How has it held up?
I no longer have the car but had it for about another year after this video. Color was still good but rock chips at the track got certain areas. If I were to do this again, I'd recommend a 2k clear coat. It adds to the cost ($20 a can....) but really only 2 coats are needed and it dramatically helps durability.
Welp my rsx is doomed
🤣🤣🤣
is the paint still holding up?
still holding up in terms of fading or color, but if I were to do it again, definitely adding a 2K clear coat would be the way to go to make the paint job more durable to chips etc and chemicals. But at that point, buying paint by the quart or gallon becomes a bit more cost effective but if you dont got the space for compressor then this option makes a bit more sense.
Daaaaang 8 cans, that's literally nothing in terms of spray painting, honestly, I'd be comfortable at 20 cans
Yeah more cans would have been better for sure. Thicker paint for more durability. This was an experiment and an experience.
You screwed up dude... you can’t sand color you need clear coat
Thanks for watching!
From my research, you can color sand single stage paints. The problem seemed to be my paint layer was just too thin (spray cans). If I could have laid some more coats I think it could have worked. 🤷♂️
Yes you can
Yea u can lol , it's like a single stage paint job ..
No clear😳...😂
@@steviefigs4677 too broke for clear lol
You should spent time on body work becuse paint job look good and would looked perfect if body was in better shape. Patients grashopper 🤪
Just a noticed a light weight moan 1:36, for how good the car is going to come out
some light foreshadowing 🤔? 😆