Somehow watching and listening to this video makes me actually believe that I can do this too. I didn’t realize that you could get code that’s already been written and download to your arduino etc. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
I printed this exact same thing a month ago but haven't put the electronics in yet so its awesome to see a video of it being built and used thanks for sharing dude
Hi Mark quick question, what wire gauges are used because in the diagram (Step 5: Attach JST connection for eyes(2), button(2), PCA9685(4), and power(2)) the green and yellow look slightly a thicker gauge. still a great video
@markitmade, thanks so much for such a wonderful video! I built everything and printed all the parts, but I'm stuck on what seems to be a silly problem. Once I power the circuit with the servos connected, the power LED on the servos board turns red. Then, when I press the chin switch, the red LED goes off, and nothing happens. I uploaded the Arduino code with no errors, and I’ve checked all my connections multiple times for shorts, but still nothing. I would say the circuit is properly assembled, but nothing moves! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
1. Can you hear the servos "clicking/humming"? 2. What power source do you have? The one I have linked in my description from Adafruit is the one you should use. I tried using a different one I got off Amazon with practically the same specs and it couldn't power the system. I switched to the one from Adafruit and it worked no problem.
@markitmade8319 I was doing some tests last night, and I can't hear any noise from the servos. However, when I touch (not press) the chin button, Servo 0 sometimes moves, but the movement is slow and incomplete, suggesting a potential lack of power. After many tests, I can't find a clear pattern linking my touching the + and - of the switch to the servo movement. I’m using a power bank exactly like the one from Adafruit-5000 mAh at 2.1 A, etc.-but following your advice, I’ve just bought the one directly from Adafruit (also the one recommended by the creator). Thanks a lot, and I’ll keep you updated!
Curious when you spray paint, is that box indoors somewhere, do you ventilate that to the outside somehow? Was considering prefab boxes they sell on amazon with a fan and hose sending to a window (basement)
Yes I spray inside. It’s in my basement. It has a large fan on the back and I have a duct hooked up to a window. It works really well. I always wear a respirator, but overall, the smell is minimal and doesn’t spread anywhere else in the house. I actually believe I got mine on Amazon…I can try to find the exact one I purchased if you’re interested. One of the best investments I ever got tbh.
Great job. Thank you for uploading this. I think you just solved the issue I was having. I didn't select the right board. I have the every board as well. It's been sitting on my shelve for over a year now. I think I can finally finish it. Did you have any issue with the power bank shutting off after a few minutes?
Not sure which one or what is used in this but I have a couple that shutdown when there is no load and also some that shutdown when there is a low power draw which is below their minimum output level, both these situations are a pain in the arse as I have to press the button on the power bank to activate it again. So basically they will charge something till it reaches nearly charged and the wattage demand falls and then shut off not fully charging the device and then not automatically start up again when the device needs charging. As said a right fooking pain.
I actually tired purchasing a cheaper power bank from Amazon and could not get it to work; it was a 5V 2A, basically the same one I used just a cheaper brand. I then bought the one in my description from Adafruit and it worked no problem; it is rated for 5V 2.1A. With the power bank I used, if I don't open the mask for a while (more than 5 min) the power bank will "go to sleep" and you'll have to press the little button on the side of the bank to energize the servos again. Might be annoying for some people but I don't mind.
Also, for the Arduino Code you might get an error after uploading the code to the board (after selecting the right one). If you get the error just test the board with the servos to see if the code was uploaded. I kept getting an error and spent like 2 hrs trying to figure out what was going on just to find out the code was uploading and executing no problem lol I'm not an Arduino expert though so it was probably something stupid I was doing XD
Thank you so much. I am definitely gonna get back to finishing it. I thought I wired it wrong. I was only able to get the eyes to light up. Not the servos. I've never used arduino before either. This was my first time.
printe the cage and it is kinda okay it fit but my nose is touching the front part a little anddd my back of the head is like touching it so idk if it will have space for the parts..... .... idk if the cage i like the size including the electronics....
If you scale it UP your servos and screws will probably be a bit loose. However, if you only scale it by about 5% (105%) you should still be able to getaway with a slightly loose fit. I'd just make sure to add a few extra layers of filler primer and paint to hopefully narrows the tolerances. Either way you'll have to do a bit extra work, which is why I just printed mine at 100%. I didn't want to deal with scaling it.
@ i would like to make it wearable but my head is little bit bigger . Thanks for the idea to fill it i think it could work. Maybe if i fill it with pla pen and put a brass where the screw will be or something like this 🤪
great b roll, the finish of the helmet look incredible! if i can give some constructive feedback, it was a bit hard for me to listen to you going through the steps by saying “i screwed in”, “next, i did”, “i attached”, “i ___”. every sentence had pretty much the same structure, one way to make your narration more interesting would be to break that up a bit. something like “after screwing in part x, part y can be attached here. next up is part z, which screws in to part alpha”. just something that isn’t pretty much the same sentence over and over again.
I've been trying to file someone who has printed the rest of the suit or at least has the files. Does anyone have any links for said info?! I would be forever in your debt!!
If you are referring to when I first put in on in the beginning of the video its actually crooked on my head (my fault for going to fast and not checking after filming), but the faceplate itself when it closes sits fine on the rest of the helmet. I need to add some foam to the inside to fit tighter on my head which would solve the "being crooked when I put it on" issue.
Including the cost to print from PCBWay? If you choose to print the files yourself (which is completely viable) you can plan to spend about $210. That includes material cost plus the cost of all the electronics assuming you don't have anything. I purchased the electronics from Amazon probably about a year ago (I purchase things in bulk since I do so many projects) so the prices might be a little higher now. The EXACT items I used are in the video description. If you include the cost of printing with PCBWay you would be looking at about $340. So, not a super cheap build, but a cool one for sure. Should keep you occupied for a while if you go for it.
THANK you for giving prices - I see PCBWay ads everywhere, but I haven't even looked at them because - like the old adage says - if you have to ask for a price, you can't afford it.
Depending on the material and size of the print I think its really affordable tbh. Especially for people like me who want to post videos more often but also work two jobs on top of that. I don't have a lot of time to do post processing on my prints at home so its a big win for me. Plus I LOVE that I can get prints in aluminum and stainless steel even though they are expensive.
Boxandloop is the creator, and partsguide and tutorial how to build and programming code is already out there. Stealing someone else’s thunder. You should be VERY clear who did all the hard work 🤬🤬
Did you even watch the video? I credit the designer multiple times in the video and have a link to his Thingiverse page in my description. I didn’t steal anything. I’m just documenting the build of the design that he put on Thingiverse for everyone to use.
@@markitmade8319”the designer”. But PCB Way is outspoken multiple times. Gotto make that cash right. The only place you can see that Boxandloop os the creator in your links is when you click the thinglink. As you say, stay classy!
@ PCBWay printed the parts, they didn’t design anything. It was not my intention to take credit for someone else’s work, I’m just documenting the process of the build. I’m not familiar with Boxandloop which is why I say the designer; I found the design on Thingiverse and thought it would be a cool build. I’ll try to make sure in the future to mention the designers by name.
In one hand it's cool to show the service and prices. That's cool. But I'd rather see you print these yourself idk just seems corny to be a maker and have pcbway or whoever print it for you. Mad corny
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This is one the best videos I have seen, only problem is, it wasn't long enough, really good thanks
Thank you for your honest feedback!
Somehow watching and listening to this video makes me actually believe that I can do this too. I didn’t realize that you could get code that’s already been written and download to your arduino etc. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
The opening and closing is amazing!
I printed this exact same thing a month ago but haven't put the electronics in yet so its awesome to see a video of it being built and used thanks for sharing dude
was the cage for test fitting the space with electronics or it is the space without electonics .... ?
That is so cool! I love how it opens and closes.
Hi. Thanks for the video! Great work!
Great job. I think an increase in delay between servos would have a more dramatic effect. It's over before you know what's happening.
Duuuuude you are so right, I'm gonna change it.
That's the beauty of code. You can change that yourself by changing a value or two. Awesome stuff
This is incredible!!
Awesome💚🇬🇧🌱
Hi Mark quick question, what wire gauges are used because in the diagram (Step 5: Attach JST connection for eyes(2), button(2), PCA9685(4), and power(2)) the green and yellow look slightly a thicker gauge. still a great video
They do look thicker in the photos, but you can use 26 gauge wire for everything. That's what I did.
@@markitmade8319 thanks mark and Happy New Year for tomorrow
@markitmade, thanks so much for such a wonderful video! I built everything and printed all the parts, but I'm stuck on what seems to be a silly problem. Once I power the circuit with the servos connected, the power LED on the servos board turns red. Then, when I press the chin switch, the red LED goes off, and nothing happens.
I uploaded the Arduino code with no errors, and I’ve checked all my connections multiple times for shorts, but still nothing. I would say the circuit is properly assembled, but nothing moves!
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
1. Can you hear the servos "clicking/humming"? 2. What power source do you have? The one I have linked in my description from Adafruit is the one you should use. I tried using a different one I got off Amazon with practically the same specs and it couldn't power the system. I switched to the one from Adafruit and it worked no problem.
@markitmade8319
I was doing some tests last night, and I can't hear any noise from the servos. However, when I touch (not press) the chin button, Servo 0 sometimes moves, but the movement is slow and incomplete, suggesting a potential lack of power.
After many tests, I can't find a clear pattern linking my touching the + and - of the switch to the servo movement. I’m using a power bank exactly like the one from Adafruit-5000 mAh at 2.1 A, etc.-but following your advice, I’ve just bought the one directly from Adafruit (also the one recommended by the creator).
Thanks a lot, and I’ll keep you updated!
Curious when you spray paint, is that box indoors somewhere, do you ventilate that to the outside somehow? Was considering prefab boxes they sell on amazon with a fan and hose sending to a window (basement)
Yes I spray inside. It’s in my basement. It has a large fan on the back and I have a duct hooked up to a window. It works really well. I always wear a respirator, but overall, the smell is minimal and doesn’t spread anywhere else in the house. I actually believe I got mine on Amazon…I can try to find the exact one I purchased if you’re interested. One of the best investments I ever got tbh.
Great job. Thank you for uploading this. I think you just solved the issue I was having. I didn't select the right board. I have the every board as well. It's been sitting on my shelve for over a year now. I think I can finally finish it. Did you have any issue with the power bank shutting off after a few minutes?
Not sure which one or what is used in this but I have a couple that shutdown when there is no load and also some that shutdown when there is a low power draw which is below their minimum output level, both these situations are a pain in the arse as I have to press the button on the power bank to activate it again. So basically they will charge something till it reaches nearly charged and the wattage demand falls and then shut off not fully charging the device and then not automatically start up again when the device needs charging. As said a right fooking pain.
I actually tired purchasing a cheaper power bank from Amazon and could not get it to work; it was a 5V 2A, basically the same one I used just a cheaper brand. I then bought the one in my description from Adafruit and it worked no problem; it is rated for 5V 2.1A. With the power bank I used, if I don't open the mask for a while (more than 5 min) the power bank will "go to sleep" and you'll have to press the little button on the side of the bank to energize the servos again. Might be annoying for some people but I don't mind.
Also, for the Arduino Code you might get an error after uploading the code to the board (after selecting the right one). If you get the error just test the board with the servos to see if the code was uploaded. I kept getting an error and spent like 2 hrs trying to figure out what was going on just to find out the code was uploading and executing no problem lol I'm not an Arduino expert though so it was probably something stupid I was doing XD
Thank you so much. I am definitely gonna get back to finishing it. I thought I wired it wrong. I was only able to get the eyes to light up. Not the servos. I've never used arduino before either. This was my first time.
@@dculnan Let me know if you run into any issues and I can help you troubleshoot if needed.
printe the cage and it is kinda okay it fit but my nose is touching the front part a little anddd my back of the head is like touching it so idk if it will have space for the parts..... .... idk if the cage i like the size including the electronics....
Hmmm that's a hard one... You could always print it at 5% larger just in case.
I am wondering if i scale up the model what will happen with fittings holes do you have some advise how to scale it and all fits together?
If you scale it UP your servos and screws will probably be a bit loose. However, if you only scale it by about 5% (105%) you should still be able to getaway with a slightly loose fit. I'd just make sure to add a few extra layers of filler primer and paint to hopefully narrows the tolerances. Either way you'll have to do a bit extra work, which is why I just printed mine at 100%. I didn't want to deal with scaling it.
@ i would like to make it wearable but my head is little bit bigger . Thanks for the idea to fill it i think it could work. Maybe if i fill it with pla pen and put a brass where the screw will be or something like this 🤪
@@odinrado honestly a PLA pen isn't a bad idea! I think that would work pretty well.
@@odinrado Did you make it ?
@@bluedasher3989 yes, filled it with pla pen then insert the brass with soldering iron it took time to fit it but cane out great
great b roll, the finish of the helmet look incredible!
if i can give some constructive feedback, it was a bit hard for me to listen to you going through the steps by saying “i screwed in”, “next, i did”, “i attached”, “i ___”. every sentence had pretty much the same structure, one way to make your narration more interesting would be to break that up a bit. something like “after screwing in part x, part y can be attached here. next up is part z, which screws in to part alpha”. just something that isn’t pretty much the same sentence over and over again.
Thank you for the feedback, I really appreciate it!
Does it have jarvis?
Haha unfortunately, no 😂
I've been trying to file someone who has printed the rest of the suit or at least has the files. Does anyone have any links for said info?! I would be forever in your debt!!
it sit crooked, like a-least fix that?
If you are referring to when I first put in on in the beginning of the video its actually crooked on my head (my fault for going to fast and not checking after filming), but the faceplate itself when it closes sits fine on the rest of the helmet. I need to add some foam to the inside to fit tighter on my head which would solve the "being crooked when I put it on" issue.
can you tell us the estimated total build cost?
Including the cost to print from PCBWay? If you choose to print the files yourself (which is completely viable) you can plan to spend about $210. That includes material cost plus the cost of all the electronics assuming you don't have anything. I purchased the electronics from Amazon probably about a year ago (I purchase things in bulk since I do so many projects) so the prices might be a little higher now. The EXACT items I used are in the video description. If you include the cost of printing with PCBWay you would be looking at about $340. So, not a super cheap build, but a cool one for sure. Should keep you occupied for a while if you go for it.
@@markitmade8319 thank you appreciate it.
i cant get the code to even verify any idears
THANK you for giving prices - I see PCBWay ads everywhere, but I haven't even looked at them because - like the old adage says - if you have to ask for a price, you can't afford it.
Depending on the material and size of the print I think its really affordable tbh. Especially for people like me who want to post videos more often but also work two jobs on top of that. I don't have a lot of time to do post processing on my prints at home so its a big win for me. Plus I LOVE that I can get prints in aluminum and stainless steel even though they are expensive.
Boxandloop is the creator, and partsguide and tutorial how to build and programming code is already out there. Stealing someone else’s thunder. You should be VERY clear who did all the hard work 🤬🤬
Did you even watch the video? I credit the designer multiple times in the video and have a link to his Thingiverse page in my description. I didn’t steal anything. I’m just documenting the build of the design that he put on Thingiverse for everyone to use.
@@markitmade8319”the designer”. But PCB Way is outspoken multiple times. Gotto make that cash right. The only place you can see that Boxandloop os the creator in your links is when you click the thinglink. As you say, stay classy!
@ PCBWay printed the parts, they didn’t design anything. It was not my intention to take credit for someone else’s work, I’m just documenting the process of the build. I’m not familiar with Boxandloop which is why I say the designer; I found the design on Thingiverse and thought it would be a cool build. I’ll try to make sure in the future to mention the designers by name.
In one hand it's cool to show the service and prices. That's cool. But I'd rather see you print these yourself idk just seems corny to be a maker and have pcbway or whoever print it for you. Mad corny