Everybody has to start somewhere, so even if Patrick didn't do EVERY SINGLE THING how some of you more experienced folks know it should be done, it took KING KONG BRASS BOCCE BALLS to make a video of a pretty involved process with a lot of steps and a lot of things that could go wrong along the way...that deserves a tip of the hat. Constructive criticism feeds GROWTH and through our mistakes we learn and grow as input from those more advanced in their knowledge serves to reinforce our body of knowledge. Simply put, yes, you are correct in several things like seating the bearings, but as the adage goes, "If you don't have anything nice to say, or at least if you don't know how to say it nicely, don't say anything at all." Patrick, you did a great job and didn't deserve some of the unnecessary roughness and putdowns some saw fit to dish out. I wonder if they have forgotten what it feels like to be somewhere between beginner and competent, before feeling expert enough to make fun of others? I'd work on a vehicle with you any day of the week, because you are methodical, humble, and not in a hurry. Rock on, bro.
Hey Patrick, thanks for the video! Helped me tonnes when I changed the pads and rotors on my 2000 Pathfinder this past weekend. It took a little longer than you...probably because my rotors were shot...the caliper guide pin on the driver side was also seized...had to use a torch to get it loose. the hub was also seized to the rotor...it took about 100 wacks with full force to get it loose...it doesn't help that I live in Canada where they use salt about 5 months of the year and my brake servicing has been close to nil over the past half a decade.
i love the way you show us how to changing front rotor i had 2001 Nissan pathfinder everything is the same part it take me two hours to changing my front rotor break pads and new calipers now it run and making break applications is very nice and smooth thank you so much brother for showing us how to changing rotor by our self thanks again brother you are very great person i'm from Canada love it
Not really necessary. Most backyard DIY mechanics are going to be prepared with general assortment of tools that will cover most things like brakes, shocks, suspension, oil changes, tune ups, etc.... If not, and this is your first time doing brakes on any car, go purchase a socket set, ratchet set, and wrench set with sizes ranging from 8mm to 27mm (maybe get SAE equivalent as well). With that, you will be able to tackle pretty much any task on just about any vehicle. Don't think you will be getting it done with just a hammer, screwdriver, and an adjustable wrench.
Good video, thanks..... 22mm,14mm,13mm sockets, ratchet, snapring pliers, screwdriver, mallet, brake parts cleaner, wheel bearing grease, hammer, rags. About an hour job, for a rookie.
Good video, thanks! Personally, I like to use Permatex anti-seize on every bolt I put back in, especially for chassis/brake parts that are a b*tch to take apart when rusted. I also agree with another comment that caliper pins should've been cleaned and re-greased. Finally, there's another video where a guy "sets the bearing" by torquing and backing it off while spinning the rotor... but whatever works, I guess! ;)
Good video. A couple of things. You really should spin the rotor while seating the bearings when tightening the nut. Also lubricating the caliper bracket pins is an absolute must especially up here in the north east. I have seen them so seized that a 4lb hammer blow did not move them. Finally, I yelled at other techs when I was a Mercedes tech for putting grease all over the back of the pads. Please only apply it to the contact surfaces like the pistons and caliper contact points that touch the outside pad.. The lubed non-contact part just attracts dirt, dust, salt and anything else.
Man, thanks a lot! I needed to replace the studs (3out of 6 were broken) and I couldn't find a video that showed how to do it. I believe I saved 300 bucks now!
best damn video on how to change the brake pads, rotors. i have a 97 Pathfinder. took a trip and could feel uneven braking when i stepped on the brake. figure the router needs replaced. or is it rotor? just messin with ya. thanks again!
Also, the washer has two screws -- he only had one. These screws are pretty soft material, so you have to be careful not to strip the screw head slots.
spin the rotor as you are tightening the spanner nut, tighten the nut (the threaded ring in this case) as much as to where the rotor resists turning - then back it off. If you give the rotor a spin it should make a couple of rotations without stopping, no looser. So snug but not tight, you just want to seat the bearing first to ensure that it is not grease of misalignment that makes it feel snug. You can repeat this procedure, doesn't hurt. Probably someone can give you a more informed answer, but I've no trouble with this method.
Hi. If i wanted to just change the lugs could I just unbolt those bolts at 4:26 and remove the front of the hub without taking the whole assembly off the vehicle?
I read other attempts and watched this video and thought i could do this. I have changed brakes many time but never a 4x4. I got to the point where i was taking off the 'cap' over the bearing. I could not get it to budge. i gave up. Brakes Plus wanted $650 to do this job. I was bound and determined when set out. now i have a bunch of new parts i will have to take back and find someone that can do it for less. thanks for this video.
Got a question. Brakes plus said i needed to replace oil gasket where bearing is.Do i? I am unable to get to it so thoughalts about skipping that part and only replace pads and rotors.Deal w packing bearing at a later date.Feedback please.
Great video, thanks for posting. I did something very similar with our 1998 pathfinder - replaced rotor, pads, wheel bearings and races. So, the whole deal. The caliper bolts were VERY difficult to remove. Other than that it went smoothly but long process. I do have an issue. When I drive > 25-30 I start hearing / feeling a slight noise on passenger side. Kind of a thunk (low noise more vibration) which gets faster as I go faster. When I press on the brakes at say 40mpg and go down to 30 it isn't evident. Drivers side is good, passenger side has noise. Any thoughts?
I redid everything again, for like the 4th time after testing by tightening the wheel bearings. In the end I bought a new wheel hub (salvaged) and re-did the races, repacked my old bearings. Tightened everything properly and it solved the issue. So bottom line, proper tightening of wheel bearings is key.
Are there any Stainless steel rotors? Just a question because cast iron discs seems to rust and wear faster. I also noted that on the left rotor (the one shown on this video), the pads anti wear scraping springs are both on top, whereas the pads I just fitted, one spring is on top, the other is below. I wonder if I have been given the correct pads. I checked the markings and both says LH. I wonder if it means LH for left side of rotor (not the brake pistons side) or LH for both pads. I will check it again, as I am to redo the work, changing new CV shafts. Also, the pads clip on thin plates, the inner one at the pistons end is rusted and flaking off. I wonder if I can purchase new ones and where. Also, again, I have found the to small bolt on the pads calliper over tight. I am sure they were overtighted, one of the shitty jobs that Dealership mechanics do, over-tightening bolts with an air tool not adjusted to the correct torque. I honestly couldn't undo the lower ones, suggesting that an air tool was used but due to lack of space the tool couldn't have fitted on the top bolts because the top bolts were probably hand tightened. If you car gets fucked up and breaks down on the road, give lots of thanks to Dealership mechanics for their excellent work they do to your cars. When I tried to rotate the wheels around I couldn't undo the nuts, they were so tight that the nuts were stripped. They use one torque setting on the air tool (hammer wrench) for small and large bolts, often ending small bolts being over-tightened to breaking (snapping) point. Talk about trusted Dealership mechanics. Take your car there and let them destroy it, maybe you understand. And the service or repairs are so costly you'll regret sending your car to these careless and irresponsible bastards. It's way better if you do it yourself as long as you know what you're doing and have a good service manual. Good video, Patrick.
Good video, but why you had to remove, repack and replace new rotors on the ground with all those leaves? I can see hair and leaves on the rotor. A bit dirty work in my opinion. A bench would have been better than a rag on the ground. Don't you think?
There is a special tool in the maintenance manual ($$). I made one with a piece of bar stock, and two bolts though it to drive the two holes in the wheel bearing lock nut. A bit wobbly, but it functions and is a lot better than trying to adjust the preload with a screwdriver or punch driving the holes.
i should send this guy some work gloves,why not wear them through the whole install,why just on the clean rotor,change gloves if need be,makes no since at all,doesnt wear during the dirtest part,only the cleanest part of the video
Josh Mori Jesus Christ! Really? Enjoy your how to video. This dude needs a router. Patrick, Thank you for posting this video. Don't mind this nonsense.
oh.. forgot. the 2nd piece of the caliper that holds the brakes, could not for the life of me budge the 2 bolts. the main caliper, those bolts were backwards tighten. Instead of righty tity, lefty loosen, not on this car.
Cony, que no saps parlar a la gent! Aquest pobret soltant intentava ajudar als altres a fer per els mateixos un poquet, en lloc de pagar a algu mecanic qui no fot una merda del treball mes lluny que els diners que fot en la cartera. Quina vergogna que li parlis aixi, Abiel, has d'aprender un poquet a parlar a les gents com desitges qu'et parlen, mare meva no vas saber res quan vas comencar a aprender a fer tot aixo! I si no entencs aixo qu'escric, es prova que tothom pot sempre aprender alguna cosa d'altres gents, si sap aceptar el fet que ningu es perfecte mai. Diunido que has faltat totes les classes del primer any de l'escola????
Everybody has to start somewhere, so even if Patrick didn't do EVERY SINGLE THING how some of you more experienced folks know it should be done, it took KING KONG BRASS BOCCE BALLS to make a video of a pretty involved process with a lot of steps and a lot of things that could go wrong along the way...that deserves a tip of the hat. Constructive criticism feeds GROWTH and through our mistakes we learn and grow as input from those more advanced in their knowledge serves to reinforce our body of knowledge. Simply put, yes, you are correct in several things like seating the bearings, but as the adage goes, "If you don't have anything nice to say, or at least if you don't know how to say it nicely, don't say anything at all."
Patrick, you did a great job and didn't deserve some of the unnecessary roughness and putdowns some saw fit to dish out. I wonder if they have forgotten what it feels like to be somewhere between beginner and competent, before feeling expert enough to make fun of others?
I'd work on a vehicle with you any day of the week, because you are methodical, humble, and not in a hurry. Rock on, bro.
Hey Patrick, thanks for the video! Helped me tonnes when I changed the pads and rotors on my 2000 Pathfinder this past weekend. It took a little longer than you...probably because my rotors were shot...the caliper guide pin on the driver side was also seized...had to use a torch to get it loose. the hub was also seized to the rotor...it took about 100 wacks with full force to get it loose...it doesn't help that I live in Canada where they use salt about 5 months of the year and my brake servicing has been close to nil over the past half a decade.
i love the way you show us how to changing front rotor i had 2001 Nissan pathfinder everything is the same part it take me two hours to changing my front rotor break pads and new calipers now it run and making break applications is very nice and smooth thank you so much brother for showing us how to changing rotor by our self thanks again brother you are very great person i'm from Canada love it
Tutorial tip: When referencing a bolt, detail the type and size. This helps followers determine if they have the correct tools in advance.
Not really necessary.
Most backyard DIY mechanics are going to be prepared with general assortment of tools that will cover most things like brakes, shocks, suspension, oil changes, tune ups, etc.... If not, and this is your first time doing brakes on any car, go purchase a socket set, ratchet set, and wrench set with sizes ranging from 8mm to 27mm (maybe get SAE equivalent as well). With that, you will be able to tackle pretty much any task on just about any vehicle.
Don't think you will be getting it done with just a hammer, screwdriver, and an adjustable wrench.
Brilliant video! Best one showing this process! Thanks for posting.
Best damn video on Pathfinder brakes. It's more informative than any other. I have a '94 Pathfinder. Thank you so much Patrick.
I say this because no one else has shone full on/off procedures. Thanks again.
Your welcome
Good video, thanks..... 22mm,14mm,13mm sockets, ratchet, snapring pliers, screwdriver, mallet, brake parts cleaner, wheel bearing grease, hammer, rags. About an hour job, for a rookie.
Good video, thanks! Personally, I like to use Permatex anti-seize on every bolt I put back in, especially for chassis/brake parts that are a b*tch to take apart when rusted. I also agree with another comment that caliper pins should've been cleaned and re-greased. Finally, there's another video where a guy "sets the bearing" by torquing and backing it off while spinning the rotor... but whatever works, I guess! ;)
Good video.
A couple of things. You really should spin the rotor while seating the bearings when tightening the nut. Also lubricating the caliper bracket pins is an absolute must especially up here in the north east. I have seen them so seized that a 4lb hammer blow did not move them. Finally, I yelled at other techs when I was a Mercedes tech for putting grease all over the back of the pads. Please only apply it to the contact surfaces like the pistons and caliper contact points that touch the outside pad.. The lubed non-contact part just attracts dirt, dust, salt and anything else.
Marc Smith thank you i forgot about that on the video 👍🏼
Man, thanks a lot! I needed to replace the studs (3out of 6 were broken) and I couldn't find a video that showed how to do it. I believe I saved 300 bucks now!
best damn video on how to change the brake pads, rotors. i have a 97 Pathfinder. took a trip and could feel uneven braking when i stepped on the brake. figure the router needs replaced. or is it rotor? just messin with ya. thanks again!
I'm guessing this would be the same procedure and same rotors for an Infiniti QX4.
An Infinity QX4 is a rebadged Pathfinder/ Terrano
Great video just got my brakes done today
awesome video!!! saved me so much time! great job explaining everything, thanks!
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. Very helpful
Wayne M your welcome
Thank you for a very informative how-to video!
Good job, to much critics but jus learn from them. Make more on the Nissan Pathfinder.
Thanks for the very informative video, need to change my disks soon and this has really helped 👍
Awesome video! Thanks!
Damn these rotors look complicated
I was on the phone with Verizon for an hour about my broken Router and I also had to do my breaks the same day lol
I often have a headset on so I can get things done (like changing a brake disc). It's amazing how much time one can be on hold.
Lol
Are you sure it's not because you Russian?
awesome job explaining step by step my friend. Now I am confident of doing my brake system myself
Dexter Keiler glad I could help you out
I like how you wear rubber gloves to do the job then just squeeze grease in your bare hand.
I ran out of gloves for that part of the video lol
Do you have to do the bearings?
11:03 - completely skips seating the bearings. Big, big mistake.
Agreed ,apart from that and the router wording it was an excellent how too !
Also, the washer has two screws -- he only had one. These screws are pretty soft material, so you have to be careful not to strip the screw head slots.
how do you seat the bearings? do you need a special tool?
spin the rotor as you are tightening the spanner nut, tighten the nut (the threaded ring in this case) as much as to where the rotor resists turning - then back it off. If you give the rotor a spin it should make a couple of rotations without stopping, no looser. So snug but not tight, you just want to seat the bearing first to ensure that it is not grease of misalignment that makes it feel snug. You can repeat this procedure, doesn't hurt. Probably someone can give you a more informed answer, but I've no trouble with this method.
Great video. Thanks for posting!!!!
Very helpful
Good video bud. On the average about how long do you think it would take to do both sides?
Nice job….thanks for sharing!
Hi. If i wanted to just change the lugs could I just unbolt those bolts at 4:26 and remove the front of the hub without taking the whole assembly off the vehicle?
thanks great video very to the point and helpful !!
I read other attempts and watched this video and thought i could do this. I have changed brakes many time but never a 4x4.
I got to the point where i was taking off the 'cap' over the bearing. I could not get it to budge. i gave up.
Brakes Plus wanted $650 to do this job.
I was bound and determined when set out.
now i have a bunch of new parts i will have to take back and find someone that can do it for less.
thanks for this video.
Yeah that's what I was told it would be $700 to do the breaks but I was able to do it myself for $120
Got a question. Brakes plus said i needed to replace oil gasket where bearing is.Do i? I am unable to get to it so thoughalts about skipping that part and only replace pads and rotors.Deal w packing bearing at a later date.Feedback please.
Great video, thanks for posting. I did something very similar with our 1998 pathfinder - replaced rotor, pads, wheel bearings and races. So, the whole deal. The caliper bolts were VERY difficult to remove. Other than that it went smoothly but long process. I do have an issue. When I drive > 25-30 I start hearing / feeling a slight noise on passenger side. Kind of a thunk (low noise more vibration) which gets faster as I go faster. When I press on the brakes at say 40mpg and go down to 30 it isn't evident. Drivers side is good, passenger side has noise. Any thoughts?
Dan W idk what it could be dan sorry
I redid everything again, for like the 4th time after testing by tightening the wheel bearings. In the end I bought a new wheel hub (salvaged) and re-did the races, repacked my old bearings. Tightened everything properly and it solved the issue. So bottom line, proper tightening of wheel bearings is key.
Thank you bro great video
Thank you for the info.
Great job and video!
Are there any Stainless steel rotors? Just a question because cast iron discs seems to rust and wear faster. I also noted that on the left rotor (the one shown on this video), the pads anti wear scraping springs are both on top, whereas the pads I just fitted, one spring is on top, the other is below. I wonder if I have been given the correct pads. I checked the markings and both says LH. I wonder if it means LH for left side of rotor (not the brake pistons side) or LH for both pads. I will check it again, as I am to redo the work, changing new CV shafts. Also, the pads clip on thin plates, the inner one at the pistons end is rusted and flaking off. I wonder if I can purchase new ones and where. Also, again, I have found the to small bolt on the pads calliper over tight. I am sure they were overtighted, one of the shitty jobs that Dealership mechanics do, over-tightening bolts with an air tool not adjusted to the correct torque. I honestly couldn't undo the lower ones, suggesting that an air tool was used but due to lack of space the tool couldn't have fitted on the top bolts because the top bolts were probably hand tightened. If you car gets fucked up and breaks down on the road, give lots of thanks to Dealership mechanics for their excellent work they do to your cars. When I tried to rotate the wheels around I couldn't undo the nuts, they were so tight that the nuts were stripped. They use one torque setting on the air tool (hammer wrench) for small and large bolts, often ending small bolts being over-tightened to breaking (snapping) point. Talk about trusted Dealership mechanics. Take your car there and let them destroy it, maybe you understand. And the service or repairs are so costly you'll regret sending your car to these careless and irresponsible bastards. It's way better if you do it yourself as long as you know what you're doing and have a good service manual. Good video, Patrick.
Thank you for the video
This video really helped thank you!
I need to replace a broken lug stud. Can you remove the outer bearing and hub while still on car and not have to remove brakes and rotor?
JackedMumin I believe you still have to remove the Brakes and rotor after reviewing the video
Does the brake caliper piston go back out automatically?? Scared to drive lol
good video , Thank you and Yahweh bless you.
Good video, but why you had to remove, repack and replace new rotors on the ground with all those leaves? I can see hair and leaves on the rotor. A bit dirty work in my opinion. A bench would have been better than a rag on the ground. Don't you think?
Mick Carson your right I should have done it on a table away from the elements I was just trying to make this video for purpose
Good video thanks
Great vid! I think I can do this!
1998 Nissan Frontier rotor replacement
1996 Nissan Pathfinder
do you need to use power tools
I just wanna wash my hands now.
What kind of grease did you use?
Nurzat Ah I used high temp bearing grease but I would make sure some autozone or advanced auto part or any auto retailer
Bearings should be preloaded and followed up with the correct torque according to Haynes manual!
warrentomberlin absolutely correct,must be torqued to 70 ftlbs then backed off to 0ftlbs to set the bearing!!!!
Rick Johnson what happens if it's not preloaded?
It wont be seated properly and could cause wobble and premature failure
What the tool(S) required to do that called?
There is a special tool in the maintenance manual ($$). I made one with a piece of bar stock, and two bolts though it to drive the two holes in the wheel bearing lock nut. A bit wobbly, but it functions and is a lot better than trying to adjust the preload with a screwdriver or punch driving the holes.
what is the torque sequence!
sorry for the delay to replay I'm not sure whats the toque sequence but i just did it in a star pattern
i should send this guy some work gloves,why not wear them through the whole install,why just on the clean rotor,change gloves if need be,makes no since at all,doesnt wear during the dirtest part,only the cleanest part of the video
Don't get hung up on trivia....who cares what gloves and when another man chooses to wear or not wear?
Josh Mori
Jesus Christ! Really? Enjoy your how to video. This dude needs a router.
Patrick, Thank you for posting this video. Don't mind this nonsense.
nice tks
rwd or 4wd?
Fwd and can do 4x4
nice using the old grease in hand method. real men don't use latex gloves
those are roller bearing not ball bearings and you should have replaced the bearing races also
Fucking Hero
oh.. forgot.
the 2nd piece of the caliper that holds the brakes, could not for the life of me budge the 2 bolts.
the main caliper, those bolts were backwards tighten.
Instead of righty tity, lefty loosen, not on this car.
Why do you keep saying "Router" instead of "Rotor"?
Or breaks instead of what they are .....BRAKES!
You aint going to do shit without a impact gun.
Why do you keep saying router?!?! SIR ITS CALLED A ROTOR -_-
Idk why I said that didn't realize when I was making the video till I was editing it
pain in the ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
its not a ball bearing brudda
Please dont work on cars again
Cony, que no saps parlar a la gent! Aquest pobret soltant intentava ajudar als altres a fer per els mateixos un poquet, en lloc de pagar a algu mecanic qui no fot una merda del treball mes lluny que els diners que fot en la cartera. Quina vergogna que li parlis aixi, Abiel, has d'aprender un poquet a parlar a les gents com desitges qu'et parlen, mare meva no vas saber res quan vas comencar a aprender a fer tot aixo! I si no entencs aixo qu'escric, es prova que tothom pot sempre aprender alguna cosa d'altres gents, si sap aceptar el fet que ningu es perfecte mai. Diunido que has faltat totes les classes del primer any de l'escola????