I install a "windage tray" in all of my engine builds . It does a good job of keeping the oil at the bottom of the case . The crank and rod assembly seems to always try to "whip" the oil up from the bottom of the case . They only cost around $15-20 dollars and they work .
That casting by the bottom of the block looks a little gone; I hope the installation seals fine. This corrosion makes it the perfect candidate for this sump; once it’s installed you “set it and forget it” 😉. I once had a Gene Berg sump that I loved but my car was sufficiently low to kill it over a speed bump one time. That was painful. Great video; thanks for sharing.
Yep, it's getting harder to find good used engine cases these days especially here in Michigan. A lot of people just remove them and put them on the ground and leave them for years. The case we started with for this build actually had a hole in the bottom of it. My buddy found it while pressure washing it. His dad stuck it in the barn on the dirt floor several years ago. Luckily all the internals were all useable.
@@ddk56vw Exactly; contact with the ground will do it. At least there are some nice aluminum cases from Autolinea coming out but even those don’t have the fit like an OEM; tins and the rest don’t fit the same.
Very good video and well informative as usual. I'm going to add a 1 1/2 quart to mine. So this was truly helpful. I'm concerned about pulling my studs out of my block. Yikes! Wow that magnet is brutal. LOL
Yeah, sometimes they can be a bugger, and other times they will come out easily. Just go slow plus, heat maybe required just remember that there is a nut on the backside of the stud that holds the pick up tube to the case.
ddk56vw are usually keep map gas on hand, it seems to work well for me on small jobs. I had no idea there was a nut on the other side of that stud. Can they be removed with the case still bolted together?
ddk56vw well I’m going to put the engine in that I currently have. I just need to put a set of heads on it because it is a good running engine. Then I will be building one starting in the spring I guess that’s when I will add a deep sump
Would have loved to see you trying to catch the long bolt that holds the pickup tube in the case in place. I was doing this at the weekend and it was an absolute nightmare!!!!
I was wondering if you would do a video on painting the engine case. I do it too. But I sure would appreciate seeing the methods others use. (Takes me forever doing all the masking i do). Hoping others can teach me some improved methods or tricks they use. I cant find a single other video showing this step of proper engine building. Shows pride in your work! I've Mentioned this to others with videos Titled "painting a vw engine" etc. but they are actually just sprucing up the tins and shrouds. making claims like "the paint will just burn off an air cooled engine (complete B.S.) and "no one can see it anyway". makes me hope those folks aren't plumbers by trade. If they don't give a hoot about the quality of their work if it isnt visible!!
To tell you the truth and I hope you don't think I am a hack but I don't really mask anything off. I paint my engine case when it is completely apart head studs and all. I use a high temp header paint. I have never seen it burn off. The only time I see it come off my engine case is in my parts washer.
Hey cool video very informative. Quick question when installing the magnetic oil sump cover is there really need for a gasket since is has the rubber O-ring? Also did you install a oil strainer with it or no need for it either?
Hi, thanks for watching. No, there is no need for a gasket since there is o-rings. I personally don't run a screen because I use a remote oil filter and a gene very cow magnet on the pick up tube. Jeremy said he wanted to run a screen on the engine in this video.
Hi. First, thank you for taking your personal time to record this video to teach people like me who loves working on my beetle. I have a question, I had to install a breather kit on my valve covers because look like there was a lot of pressure and it used to separate the gasket of the valve cover and leak oil over the muffler/heater pipes. It resolved the issue for a good couple of hundred miles and months of use. Now it started again doing the same (leaking from the valve cover gasket). If there is too much pressure, by installing a larger oil sump, will it help with that issue? Thank you!
@@ddk56vw cover are clipped. The breather is this one. www.jbugs.com/product/8544.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAvJXxBRCeARIsAMSkApptXKuCEBCuSXhXcU5xCfxvaGum-GKVp48wBl-pW9-NthEhFlnqHoIaAnFGEALw_wcB
@@RacingAlien hi, sorry for the late reply. For some reason I don't get notified that you replied. Anyways, that breather isn't going to cut it. For one the lines from the valve are to small. Try something like this www.jayceevw.com/store/p215/RLR_Breather_Box_-_Polished.html. now for the valve covers, years back everyone was big on running stock covers with stock buckles. I run bolt on but I still have an issue with them leaking. I blame the cheap bug pack covers. One thing you can try is using some sealant on the cover side only this should help the gasket stay in place.
I've never had a problem removing these bolts when using this red thread loc. it might be the fact that I am using Permatex brand and not Loctite. I'll tell ya the only time I had to remove something with heat is when someone used that Green Loctite and this was on a crank pulley.
I install a "windage tray" in all of my engine builds . It does a good job of keeping the oil at the bottom of the case . The crank and rod assembly seems to always try to "whip" the oil up from the bottom of the case . They only cost around $15-20 dollars and they work .
That casting by the bottom of the block looks a little gone; I hope the installation seals fine. This corrosion makes it the perfect candidate for this sump; once it’s installed you “set it and forget it” 😉. I once had a Gene Berg sump that I loved but my car was sufficiently low to kill it over a speed bump one time. That was painful. Great video; thanks for sharing.
Yep, it's getting harder to find good used engine cases these days especially here in Michigan. A lot of people just remove them and put them on the ground and leave them for years. The case we started with for this build actually had a hole in the bottom of it. My buddy found it while pressure washing it. His dad stuck it in the barn on the dirt floor several years ago. Luckily all the internals were all useable.
@@ddk56vw Exactly; contact with the ground will do it. At least there are some nice aluminum cases from Autolinea coming out but even those don’t have the fit like an OEM; tins and the rest don’t fit the same.
Very good video and well informative as usual. I'm going to add a 1 1/2 quart to mine. So this was truly helpful. I'm concerned about pulling my studs out of my block. Yikes! Wow that magnet is brutal. LOL
Yeah, sometimes they can be a bugger, and other times they will come out easily. Just go slow plus, heat maybe required just remember that there is a nut on the backside of the stud that holds the pick up tube to the case.
ddk56vw are usually keep map gas on hand, it seems to work well for me on small jobs. I had no idea there was a nut on the other side of that stud. Can they be removed with the case still bolted together?
@@SladesVWBeetle I have never done it with the engine together. I believe that it would be next to impossible to do it that way.
ddk56vw well I’m going to put the engine in that I currently have. I just need to put a set of heads on it because it is a good running engine. Then I will be building one starting in the spring I guess that’s when I will add a deep sump
Good stuff!
Would have loved to see you trying to catch the long bolt that holds the pickup tube in the case in place. I was doing this at the weekend and it was an absolute nightmare!!!!
Ya, I change that one out while the case is apart. It's about the only way of doing it. I couldn't imagine trying to change it any other way.
@@ddk56vw I still haven’t managed to swap it out yet! I’ll let you know how I get on 😂 😡
I was wondering if you would do a video on painting the engine case. I do it too. But I sure would appreciate seeing the methods others use. (Takes me forever doing all the masking i do). Hoping others can teach me some improved methods or tricks they use. I cant find a single other video showing this step of proper engine building. Shows pride in your work! I've Mentioned this to others with videos Titled "painting a vw engine" etc. but they are actually just sprucing up the tins and shrouds. making claims like "the paint will just burn off an air cooled engine (complete B.S.) and "no one can see it anyway". makes me hope those folks aren't plumbers by trade. If they don't give a hoot about the quality of their work if it isnt visible!!
To tell you the truth and I hope you don't think I am a hack but I don't really mask anything off. I paint my engine case when it is completely apart head studs and all. I use a high temp header paint. I have never seen it burn off. The only time I see it come off my engine case is in my parts washer.
nice job. thanks
Why not chase the threads with a tap?
Hey cool video very informative. Quick question when installing the magnetic oil sump cover is there really need for a gasket since is has the rubber O-ring? Also did you install a oil strainer with it or no need for it either?
Hi, thanks for watching. No, there is no need for a gasket since there is o-rings. I personally don't run a screen because I use a remote oil filter and a gene very cow magnet on the pick up tube. Jeremy said he wanted to run a screen on the engine in this video.
Hi. First, thank you for taking your personal time to record this video to teach people like me who loves working on my beetle. I have a question, I had to install a breather kit on my valve covers because look like there was a lot of pressure and it used to separate the gasket of the valve cover and leak oil over the muffler/heater pipes. It resolved the issue for a good couple of hundred miles and months of use. Now it started again doing the same (leaking from the valve cover gasket). If there is too much pressure, by installing a larger oil sump, will it help with that issue? Thank you!
I don't think it will change the pressure much. Are you running stock valve covers? what kind of breather did you install?
@@ddk56vw i hace empi chrome covers and empi breather kit.
@@RacingAlien is that the 40 empi breather? Are the covers clip on or bolt on?
@@ddk56vw cover are clipped.
The breather is this one.
www.jbugs.com/product/8544.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAvJXxBRCeARIsAMSkApptXKuCEBCuSXhXcU5xCfxvaGum-GKVp48wBl-pW9-NthEhFlnqHoIaAnFGEALw_wcB
@@RacingAlien hi, sorry for the late reply. For some reason I don't get notified that you replied. Anyways, that breather isn't going to cut it. For one the lines from the valve are to small. Try something like this www.jayceevw.com/store/p215/RLR_Breather_Box_-_Polished.html. now for the valve covers, years back everyone was big on running stock covers with stock buckles. I run bolt on but I still have an issue with them leaking. I blame the cheap bug pack covers. One thing you can try is using some sealant on the cover side only this should help the gasket stay in place.
Stick a rag in there
Red loctite too severe blue is good enough
I've never had a problem removing these bolts when using this red thread loc. it might be the fact that I am using Permatex brand and not Loctite. I'll tell ya the only time I had to remove something with heat is when someone used that Green Loctite and this was on a crank pulley.