For those talking about over-driving the nails, search for Zip 2.0 from Matt Risinger on RUclips. They're replacing the tape and sealing nails with a liquid-flash product.
@@jeepsuc99 whats you preferred way - I'm repairing an old home and the 120 day grace period is leading me towards zip system at 54$/board the stuffs not cheap but if it gets me to water-tight after installation it can't be beat
@@Kobe29261 120 day grace period? I repair so many new houses with zip. If fluid applied flashing is not used, which I hardly ever see, water gets behind everything. There is no paper lapped the way it was been done for over 100 years, I wld rather use 3/4 plywood everywhere, with typar paper and 30 lb felt splines at all penetrations. And closed cell insulation in walls to create pretty air tight build. Now I know zip is great for air tightness, and if I was forced to use it, I wld fluid apply flashing everywhere, and it would be a great envelope. I just see so many builders use it , like it us great, and most people love it. But too many details get over looked by average builders, I live on the ne coast, so anything not done 100 percent will leak. Middle of the country and inland can get away with alot more than my area
@@jeepsuc99 Thanks for the comprehensive response. I'm DIY'ing so I'll take max precaution with everything. The 120 day was a reference to the claims made about seam-taped zip sheathing, apparently it can go that long without the final sheathing. Half what you said went over my head so am doing some research. You are obviously on top of your game. Thanks again for being generous with your knowledge. Also I'm in NC so slightly higher tolerances than you are probably able to live with up North i.e. winters not as punishing and unforgiving.
One thing I noticed that they missed and a lot of contractors would argue that it isn't necessary, is covering the rest of the fasteners with a water barrier. be it more tape or a fluid applied barrier.
@ Tim Uhler, I was wondering the same thing. They obviously don't have the seismic codes we do here on the left coast. I also noticed that the crew didn't "think like water" when lapping the tape. No offense to this very efficient crew, but I just wouldn't trust the adhesive that much. Does this mean that deck ledger Z flashing and Roof to Wall rely solely on the tape? I'm not sold.
I’m seeing comments about nail holes. I guess I’m lost on that, house wrap is stapled on and siding and trim is nailed on over the wrap. Am I missing something?
Every nail is a potential leak. Every horizontal tape strip with creases can catch water. Tape should overlap in the proper gravity directions. Go and watch the Zip wall water test. Leaks 10x worse than Tyvex. I get it! No exterior wall system is perfect but what contractors and consumers don't realize is that EVERY penetration is a potential leak. SOOOOO, how many nails are there per sheet? 50? ....and no effort is made to fill any nail head that over penetrated.
That "testing" you see by Zip's competitor is spraying rain directly against Zip system - in reality, the sheathing is covered by some barrier like clapboards, stucco etc, so you'll never get driven rain as shown in the "test". And just how well do you think Tyvek would perform with the usual zillion staples thru it under the same "testing" conditions? (Hint - about 10x worse) That said, there are much bigger issues with the overdriven nails shown in this video - any decent inspector would red flag the walls as the structural properties of the sheathing were compromised. Unfortunately, taping the seams hides over-driven fasteners and hack work can go unnoticed. I'd splurge for liquid flashing rather than tape - more time and $, but worth the cost of another few minutes per wall assembly. I'd also make the framer pay to remove and replace their defective work. Next time those framers will properly adjust their nail guns...
Anything is better than this. Workers do not have the attention to detail to use this. Its potential to have issues is huge. I will have work for life fixing this shit installed by idiots that dont care
It's amazing how cheap and lightweighted these houses are build in America. Sure they are all good build, but here in mid Europe most buildings are full brick or cinderblocks. On a new House we have nowadays 30cm brick/cinder and at least 20-40cm of insulating then 1-2 cm mortar and for the finish 2-3cm grater plaster on the out walls. Sure they are more expensive but they are build to last a long time.
Is there more to the zip system than just a layer of sealant? It looks like standard OSB with a layer of paint on it. Unless it's basically the same price as regular OSB, I can't imagine it being cost effective.
I did a rough estimate, per square foot, of the cost of plain OSB & Tyvek, vs Zip. I even included tape cost per foot @ 12 ft per 4x8 panel. And on the roughly 200 sheets I'll need for my new 2100sgft home, Zip is almost $4k MORE! I'd pay it if I thought there was some substantial advantage, but everyone agrees that both systems, as long as they are installed properly, perform basically the same. So I can't justify the massive cost here personally.
Yeah I just watched this video and I noticed that. I did some plywood sheathing in the winter with 1/8" gap between panels and come summer, it closed and even buckled in a few spots. So I ended up running my saw along the seams. Lesson learned. most panels call out 1/8" but I do even more now.
The only way to make this whole system work is to keep your nails strait and tape over your nail line because this stuff just like OSB will puff up when the water hits it. I really think this board will expand just from moisture in the air.
I am watching this video because I want to use the Zip System for my oversized garage. I want to save time and money doing it. At 4:01 it mentions that "Sealing overdriven fasteners was not necessary." If you look at the image at that time, the integrity of the factory coating has been compromised and would allow water to enter and soak. Am I missing something. Wouldn't common sense say "Seal it."?
You are absolutely correct. This video shows a hack job for zip sheathing. They are not leaving a 1/8th inch gap between the sheets. They are overdriving the nails and then not covering the holes. They are not shingling the tape. DO NOT use this video to help with zip sheathing installation.
You will not save time and money using this. If the builder insists on using it. Go look at another job he has done. If he is not using liquid flash and rainscreen . I would not use him because he doesn't care and/or doesn't have a brain
2X4 walls? Where the heck is that? No structural blocking on 12 foot walls? Love framing but unfortunately most the framers where I live are hacks. These days I get people wanting me to run crews of 10 for $25/hr. That's what Hong Kong Chinese immigrants were paying me in 1988 they like my work so much. I turned down a job the other day leading a 3 wing 4 floor condo project because they would only give me $28. Apparently they cant find any good workers. Go figure
I've never understood why the sheathing on the east coast is run horizontally. Out west we have seismic issues to deal with and run it vertically to meet the engineering requirements. It is stronger, and doesn't require more time to install. We prefer to cut out our window and doors with a router since it eliminates all measuring and marking.
that's not the case actually from doing stress tests, it's stronger running it horizontal. I've heard of some requiring blocking to be put on the seams, but maybe that is just in earth-quake zones, where it's required to run horizontal.
@@abacab87 Yeah I was wondering about this when I read his comment. I'm no engineer, but I'd like to think that I understand basic physics, and it seems to me that a larger horizontal piece will offer more strength against side to side shear forces.
I was doing it just like that 1992 without the zip stuff of course but with the router. Gable ends windows and all. Clean. this is a good framing crew though
Kind of funny... I frame houses in Massachusetts and you haven’t been able to use 2x4 exterior walls in over 10 years dose not meet insulation requirements
@@Jookyforever a product that can b installed wrong in so many ways is not worth it. 90 percent of builders don't install products correctly. I will stick with what has been around for years and works. And I will continue to fix new builds using this shit system.
lol, their nails are just crushing through the outer coating. I know it will be covered up with tape but the deeper the nail crushes the material the less strength it has. plus say you have an area where the tape didn't seal all the way. water could possibly get in there. I'm surprised no one told them to turn down the pressure on the nail gun.
Nail holes , tape failure and the fact that OSb has an uneven rough surface , which makes it extremely difficult to seal with any type of liquid sealer. Americans need to stop basing EVERYTHING on money. There are NO shortcuts in quality time tested house building . The homeowner is not saving a dime by having their contractor use Zip panels . He is NOT passing the alleged labor saving on to you, but rather himself. Don't be a sucker.
More seams more problems.....tyvek is a better system and covers whole sheet in an overlapping manner.......even better is tyvek over this system in northeast
@@abewilcox4560 trust me when I tell you that I can use a router to cut out a blind window in the time you snap out the same window. And I don't run the risk of cutting a trimmer
OSB is shit compared to good plywood (not Chinese, North American quality). I don't care if it's cheaper, it's crap. It burns at a much higher temperature than plywood and much faster. Give me good plywood any day.
Good luck not breaking the membrane nailing it. These guys definitely broke the membrane. Zip states it is crucial not to break membrane. I don't like this system, house wrap is faster than taping seams.
So most of these comments sound like a bunch of amateurs. This is one hell of a framing crew in as far as the zip I mean come on guys what the f*** you think that's the finish? Who gives a f*** if you break a goddamn paint barrier on the subsurface.
For those talking about over-driving the nails, search for Zip 2.0 from Matt Risinger on RUclips.
They're replacing the tape and sealing nails with a liquid-flash product.
seems like zip system is way more expensive than tyvek...worthless
The only way this shit shld be used Is with liquid flash and rain screen system. Period. And I still prefer to go another way
@@jeepsuc99 whats you preferred way - I'm repairing an old home and the 120 day grace period is leading me towards zip system at 54$/board the stuffs not cheap but if it gets me to water-tight after installation it can't be beat
@@Kobe29261 120 day grace period? I repair so many new houses with zip. If fluid applied flashing is not used, which I hardly ever see, water gets behind everything. There is no paper lapped the way it was been done for over 100 years, I wld rather use 3/4 plywood everywhere, with typar paper and 30 lb felt splines at all penetrations. And closed cell insulation in walls to create pretty air tight build. Now I know zip is great for air tightness, and if I was forced to use it, I wld fluid apply flashing everywhere, and it would be a great envelope. I just see so many builders use it , like it us great, and most people love it. But too many details get over looked by average builders, I live on the ne coast, so anything not done 100 percent will leak. Middle of the country and inland can get away with alot more than my area
@@jeepsuc99 Thanks for the comprehensive response. I'm DIY'ing so I'll take max precaution with everything. The 120 day was a reference to the claims made about seam-taped zip sheathing, apparently it can go that long without the final sheathing. Half what you said went over my head so am doing some research. You are obviously on top of your game. Thanks again for being generous with your knowledge. Also I'm in NC so slightly higher tolerances than you are probably able to live with up North i.e. winters not as punishing and unforgiving.
One thing I noticed that they missed and a lot of contractors would argue that it isn't necessary, is covering the rest of the fasteners with a water barrier. be it more tape or a fluid applied barrier.
Noise barrier
so the membrane and tape make the sheet water tight - what about all the nails going through the membrane?
pj You beat me to the question....
That's where it leaks
Tape is a option, but the best method is caulking made my ZipSystem. It can be used on nail holes and the seams
they didn't use any and I would imagine the labor involved in that would make the system pointless - plus the window openings aren't wrapped...
refreshing to see other critical thinkers....
@ Tim Uhler,
I was wondering the same thing. They obviously don't have the seismic codes we do here on the left coast. I also noticed that the crew didn't "think like water" when lapping the tape. No offense to this very efficient crew, but I just wouldn't trust the adhesive that much. Does this mean that deck ledger Z flashing and Roof to Wall rely solely on the tape? I'm not sold.
I’m seeing comments about nail holes. I guess I’m lost on that, house wrap is stapled on and siding and trim is nailed on over the wrap. Am I missing something?
Every nail is a potential leak. Every horizontal tape strip with creases can catch water. Tape should overlap in the proper gravity directions. Go and watch the Zip wall water test. Leaks 10x worse than Tyvex. I get it! No exterior wall system is perfect but what contractors and consumers don't realize is that EVERY penetration is a potential leak. SOOOOO, how many nails are there per sheet? 50? ....and no effort is made to fill any nail head that over penetrated.
I think this is in texas i dont think they get that much rain down there... or does that matter?
That's why you use Zip liquid flashing instead of the tape
That "testing" you see by Zip's competitor is spraying rain directly against Zip system - in reality, the sheathing is covered by some barrier like clapboards, stucco etc, so you'll never get driven rain as shown in the "test". And just how well do you think Tyvek would perform with the usual zillion staples thru it under the same "testing" conditions? (Hint - about 10x worse)
That said, there are much bigger issues with the overdriven nails shown in this video - any decent inspector would red flag the walls as the structural properties of the sheathing were compromised. Unfortunately, taping the seams hides over-driven fasteners and hack work can go unnoticed. I'd splurge for liquid flashing rather than tape - more time and $, but worth the cost of another few minutes per wall assembly. I'd also make the framer pay to remove and replace their defective work. Next time those framers will properly adjust their nail guns...
Anything is better than this. Workers do not have the attention to detail to use this. Its potential to have issues is huge. I will have work for life fixing this shit installed by idiots that dont care
It's amazing how cheap and lightweighted these houses are build in America. Sure they are all good build, but here in mid Europe most buildings are full brick or cinderblocks. On a new House we have nowadays 30cm brick/cinder and at least 20-40cm of insulating then 1-2 cm mortar and for the finish 2-3cm grater plaster on the out walls. Sure they are more expensive but they are build to last a long time.
Is there more to the zip system than just a layer of sealant? It looks like standard OSB with a layer of paint on it. Unless it's basically the same price as regular OSB, I can't imagine it being cost effective.
Its not. Very much more $
I did a rough estimate, per square foot, of the cost of plain OSB & Tyvek, vs Zip. I even included tape cost per foot @ 12 ft per 4x8 panel. And on the roughly 200 sheets I'll need for my new 2100sgft home, Zip is almost $4k MORE! I'd pay it if I thought there was some substantial advantage, but everyone agrees that both systems, as long as they are installed properly, perform basically the same. So I can't justify the massive cost here personally.
I didnt like the look of the edges of the sheeting it was crumbling seemed to be falling aoart.
So you're not required to have a gap between sheets like you do with plain OSB?
Apparently you still need 1/8" on the 4 foot side. I didn't notice any of that happening here.
Yeah I just watched this video and I noticed that. I did some plywood sheathing in the winter with 1/8" gap between panels and come summer, it closed and even buckled in a few spots. So I ended up running my saw along the seams. Lesson learned. most panels call out 1/8" but I do even more now.
The only way to make this whole system work is to keep your nails strait and tape over your nail line because this stuff just like OSB will puff up when the water hits it. I really think this board will expand just from moisture in the air.
Because it is OSB.
Its wood
I am watching this video because I want to use the Zip System for my oversized garage. I want to save time and money doing it. At 4:01 it mentions that "Sealing overdriven fasteners was not necessary." If you look at the image at that time, the integrity of the factory coating has been compromised and would allow water to enter and soak. Am I missing something. Wouldn't common sense say "Seal it."?
You are absolutely correct. This video shows a hack job for zip sheathing. They are not leaving a 1/8th inch gap between the sheets. They are overdriving the nails and then not covering the holes. They are not shingling the tape. DO NOT use this video to help with zip sheathing installation.
You will not save time and money using this. If the builder insists on using it. Go look at another job he has done. If he is not using liquid flash and rainscreen . I would not use him because he doesn't care and/or doesn't have a brain
Imo any type of shingle effect paper is better. Its def good for an air seal. But if not used correct it's a disaster
2X4 walls? Where the heck is that? No structural blocking on 12 foot walls?
Love framing but unfortunately most the framers where I live are hacks. These days I get people wanting me to run crews of 10 for $25/hr. That's what Hong Kong Chinese immigrants were paying me in 1988 they like my work so much.
I turned down a job the other day leading a 3 wing 4 floor condo project because they would only give me $28.
Apparently they cant find any good workers. Go figure
I've never understood why the sheathing on the east coast is run horizontally. Out west we have seismic issues to deal with and run it vertically to meet the engineering requirements. It is stronger, and doesn't require more time to install. We prefer to cut out our window and doors with a router since it eliminates all measuring and marking.
that's not the case actually from doing stress tests, it's stronger running it horizontal. I've heard of some requiring blocking to be put on the seams, but maybe that is just in earth-quake zones, where it's required to run horizontal.
Horizontal is actually more strong due to the off-set, but vertical is definitely my preferred way
thank you for that tip on installing the sheathing vertical instead of horizontal
@@abacab87 Yeah I was wondering about this when I read his comment. I'm no engineer, but I'd like to think that I understand basic physics, and it seems to me that a larger horizontal piece will offer more strength against side to side shear forces.
Use a router with a flush cut bit to cut the OSB out of the windows. No measuring, no lines to snap. It's much faster and more accurate.
Or a sawzall?
@@alejandrozuniga4426 no.
I was doing it just like that 1992 without the zip stuff of course but with the router. Gable ends windows and all. Clean. this is a good framing crew though
@@alejandrozuniga4426 no.
@@markopolo6009 ok than lol
Kind of funny... I frame houses in Massachusetts and you haven’t been able to use 2x4 exterior walls in over 10 years dose not meet insulation requirements
So its 2x6?
@@alejandrozuniga4426 I live in Ma and my house is 2 x 6
So I noticed they didn’t block there seams. Can it be installed vertically?
Are Nail holes are going to let water in. The nails have busted the seal .Just saying.
The carpenter at 5:30 is overdriving nails so badly he might as well not be putting them in.... it absolutely kills your nail connection strength.
And it ruins the membrane
That's why this shit shld not be used
look at him
@@jeepsuc99 Any product can be installed incorrectly. This is one issue that is easy to solve. This is the fault of the carpenter, not the product.
@@Jookyforever a product that can b installed wrong in so many ways is not worth it. 90 percent of builders don't install products correctly. I will stick with what has been around for years and works. And I will continue to fix new builds using this shit system.
is this a add for Zip System ?
That's exactly what this is.
Zip requires nail gap.
Could I install Zip with screws?
If you can find screws that have the sufficient shear strength, rated and code-approved or engineered for use on sheathing.
Johnny looked like a baby 😂
That zip stuff MUST have 1/8" gaps. It appears these boys are butting them tight... This zip stuff is not for me.
I wonder why they did not use a level when checking them walls.
lol, their nails are just crushing through the outer coating. I know it will be covered up with tape but the deeper the nail crushes the material the less strength it has. plus say you have an area where the tape didn't seal all the way. water could possibly get in there. I'm surprised no one told them to turn down the pressure on the nail gun.
What I was thinking
The video shows a bad installation and sloppy handling of the materials. Zip is a good system but it has to be done right.
Nail holes , tape failure and the fact that OSb has an uneven rough surface , which makes it extremely difficult to seal with any type of liquid sealer.
Americans need to stop basing EVERYTHING on money. There are NO shortcuts in quality time tested house building . The homeowner is not saving a dime by having their contractor use Zip panels . He is NOT passing the alleged labor saving on to you, but rather himself. Don't be a sucker.
Nailed it
It's a shitty system designed for shitty builders to be faster. But speed is not quality. But most builders disagree
The corners of that zip looks like a beaver got at them, damn beavers...
Tight crew.
Nope, use Zip liquid flashing instead!
CJ Schmitt what is the deal with zip liquid is it and adhesive polymer if some sort
buenos videos
construccion
#1
Honestly, it's OSB with a coating. If that coating has any penetration you're screwed. And it doesn't breathe.
How many OSHA violations can YOU spot?.. (Look at the ladder use for one)
If you tape the seams how will the house breathe, I understand for the roof to keep water out the seams..but the walls
i wanna do framing. ive been doing siding windows and doors for over 10 years and want to get into framing homes.
Damien Nicholas your job is better money
No you dont. Trust me.
What about the nail holes?
i got a Tyvek infomercial before this vid lol...
Me too
Thx your vidio is good...
Can u tell me..?
Who is best carpenter...?
Essensial craftsman or
Larry haun..?
Pliss tell me
Larry haun.. duh
These guys are better than both.
Dont see a 1/8 gap b/n sheets either
Zip has a thing on the edges so you dont need that gap
Why are they using a roofing nailer for framing
That's a coiled siding nailer. In between a roofing and a full size framing nailer.
Leaning a ladder on a building is a safety hazard
Often times safer than opening up an A frame imo.
I miss working with a crew
Haha watching this made me feel the same way.
Yea, those were the good old days.
@5:28 send that nail clear through. ;)
arent they suppose to start tapping from the bottom up?
More seams more problems.....tyvek is a better system and covers whole sheet in an overlapping manner.......even better is tyvek over this system in northeast
Anyone know what brand is the nail gun ?
Looks like Hitachi
Lots of cords have disappeared since they shot this.....
the zip warranty is a joke, if they were to come look at this job they would void any warranty zip offered on the house
On any house every build with shit system. Warranty void
over driven and air/water leaks at every nail. Need to tape the nails too
Over penetrated nails not a water proof seal ever hear of a flush nailer
The reason this is a shit system is because they're sending 100s of nails through it. Not so water tight, not so air tight.
these guys need to set their nail gun to not penetrate too deep... That completely defeats the purpose of the barrier.
You can not control pressure when you have 2-3-4 guns at the same time, to me zip system would be good BUT taping over the nail heads not only joints
I'll stick with SIGA majrex and majvest. Thanks.
No spacing of seams I guess
OSB on steroids is still OSB. No thanks.
Its a commercial
Wouldn't touch this shit. The OSB will be a mushy mess once all those nail holes permit water penetration.
this video should say how not to sheet a home seen this stuff being tested and it is a huge wast of time money and manpower
Using zip tape system is a waste of time and a mistake.. Liquid flashing if you actually care about envelope.
A router would've been easier to cut the openings.
And a lot slower
A router is a LOT faster. Get a real router and try it instead of just stating what you think you know.
@@spadesofaces1980 are you on drugs. On no planet is a router faster than a circular saw.
@@abewilcox4560 trust me when I tell you that I can use a router to cut out a blind window in the time you snap out the same window. And I don't run the risk of cutting a trimmer
@@spadesofaces1980 doubt that. It's 2 extra tools you need to have out.
OSB is shit compared to good plywood (not Chinese, North American quality). I don't care if it's cheaper, it's crap. It burns at a much higher temperature than plywood and much faster. Give me good plywood any day.
It's a waste of money.
That doesn't impressed me much
Larry Hunn
Man I remember our boss would get upset if we installed the zip sheets upside down it didn't look professional he would say
sounds like an asshole
I do interior work and my whole job is to make things look good.
Clean job shows work integrity.
This guy talk to much but i never see him do it somthing😏😏
Good luck not breaking the membrane nailing it. These guys definitely broke the membrane. Zip states it is crucial not to break membrane. I don't like this system, house wrap is faster than taping seams.
thak you the and get good how do thak for you now all do thak you but thak you
So most of these comments sound like a bunch of amateurs. This is one hell of a framing crew in as far as the zip I mean come on guys what the f*** you think that's the finish? Who gives a f*** if you break a goddamn paint barrier on the subsurface.
Not a fan of OSB
Another bad solution to a virtually nonexistent problem.