just had this done on my car two weeks back. I changed my gaskets too. hardest part was getting the fluid. No Toyota/lexus dealer in my area had it, but was lucky to get it at a dealer in Toronto. Not cheap at $40/quart. I also changed my front diff fluid as well using the same fluid.
Hey There, you are right, the fluid is expensive, and I don't know why. I found it odd that it was in a steel container, as most everything is in plastic now. I found the fluid at a Mississauga dealership. Have a great weekend and thanks for the comment !!
im sorry, im not so informed about cars. Only AWD versions have front diff right ? So if i have a RWD, I just need to take care of the Rear diff fluid ?
Damn and I thought my IS350 was rusty underneath, I'd recommend just having new plugs on hand especially with these hex driver types that you could easily round off on the inside.. Good on always checking that you can get the fill plug out first, it's not good if you drained the assembly only to find that you have no way to refill it.
Awesome, great walkthrough! Thanks for the heads-up on using a 3/8 hex, my diff is rusty too. Any tips on getting the car on all 4 jack stands so the car is level? My floor jack doesn't seem to reach the front cross member or the rear diff jack points without the pole touching the bumper. I bought the same oil from the Toyota dealer, just need to get around to doing it already lol.
Happy New Year to you, and thanks for the comment :) As far as jacking the car up, before I had the QuickJack system (I really love it - and did a review vid on it) I use to use jack stands all the time. I found that I had to use the jack on the side using the pinch weld, or as you correctly say, you wind up hitting the rear bumper, and you can't reach the cross member in the front. I would place my hydraulic floor jack a few inches from where the jack stand would be placed. I would also have to angle the jack so its not coming right out of the side of the car, or the pump mechanism winds up hitting the wall. So the jack was always on an angle to the car. I would always use pinch weld protectors like amzn.to/3t4A5wv or amzn.to/31hEDUH I found that jacking up the vehicle so it was level helped with so many jobs, but you know it's actually really time consuming to do. Time yourself and you will be surprised at how long it takes !! It can be done, as I have done it way too many times, and finally I found the Quickjack system on sale at Costco and never looked back. Its safe, and quick. But to answer your question I use to use the pinch welds to get the car up high enough, but be careful, you may have to do it in 2 steps rotating the jack through the lift points, as one full lift on a corner may be too much at once. Keep that IS250/350 on the road, I love the vehicle !!! Very underrated and overlooked.
48 Like great video I was change my Harley davison fluid last week transmision drain hard to get to can not see it can only do by feel it, I do not have the jack for the bike, I think I end up cross treath the bolt small drip leak, need to take it out and do it again, rule number 1 never force anything when you work any motor😂😂
Such a good rule, never force anything, you are so right with that !! It's amazing how easily things can get damaged. I give you credit for trying, most people don't try, you do and that's good.
This video was very helpful cool your teaching your son, I was wondering for the front of my 2006 is250 do you recommend Toyota atf WS or do you use something else?
Thanks for sharing, I hope I get to do the same with my future kid before we are all forced to drive electric toys that we won't be allowed to work on and have to take to the stealership.
Was that your first time to change the diff fluid in that car with over 300k miles? If so looks like it’s been over a year since you changed the diff fluid so have you have any issues with the diff since it had so many mile on the original fluid?
Hey There and thanks for the comment. Yup it was the first time its was ever changed. I know that as I bought the car from a neighbour so I was aware of its history. No issues at all. For a car with that many miles its been really good. I did do the exhaust on it, and I had to change the left rear axel as it was making noise (Haven't edited that video yet)
Wow, realize my car *could approach 332k miles like yours. I still have long away, but has been diy for my is250 maintaining herender and has 130k, still 1/3 of yours.
@GarageKing I have a 07 is250, for rear differential do you recommend I guess the OE/factory oil you used in the vid or synthetic? Also does brand matter?
Hey There and thanks for the comment. I'm sure you could get away with a quality aftermarket oil. The engineers recommend 75W85 oil, so if you get that in a quality aftermarket you will be fine. I used the factory oil because this is not a job you do regularly, so I'll probably only do it once during my ownership of the car, so the extra cost really didn't matter much to me. Plus it took all the guessing out and I didn't have to worry about anything.
@@DaiLLSpoken Hey there, no problem at all with the questions, at least you want to learn so thats great. The front takes gear oil (but obviously you need to have an AWD vehicle) In warmer weather, above -18C or 0F you can use SAE 90, and below those temps its 80W90.
Hey bro, I will be changing my front differential fluid soon and I called the Lexus dealership and they said to use 80w 90 will that work on an 2007 is 250?
Hey there and thanks for the comment. If you scroll down in the comment you will see there was a pretty good oil discussion. 80W90 is the thickest so far. Some guys are using 75W90. The factory stuff that I bought in those cans in the videos was not 80W90, it was much thinner. I'm not sure where you live but if it gets really cold (winter is coming) that 80W90 barely flows, and not sure if it would lubricate enough. If Lexus dealer is telling you that's what they are using, its not recommended by the manufacturer, they are just going as cheap as they can as 80W90 is pretty cheap oil, as its usually not synthetic. Remember the engineers did spec out 75W85 oil. You should be fine, but I would maybe call another dealer just to confirm that they didn't quote you wrong.
Since you have some experience on oil change , can I ask if there is any difference in 75w85 vs 75w90 ? I am buying a 2006 is250 AWD and just need some info do it my self, also is there a differential fluid in the front end to change besides the transmission fluid which I know is ATF WS ? Thanks I appreciate your help
@@robwhiff3411 Hey there and thanks for the comment. There is a difference between 75W85 and 75W90. 75W90 is a little heavier. If you have ever taken apart a differential (I have) you will know the gears are big and very durable, so in the rear diff would it make a difference??? Probably not, but you never know. There is A LOT of pressure on those gear teeth. In addition to providing a film between the gear teeth, it has to protect the bearings. Also gear wear takes time, its not instant. So your vehicle may be fine for quite sometime, and then you get a "whine" in the rear and you need new gears. Now on the rear diff, you are probably ok, but I was bothered when I drained the diff, and saw how thin it was, that's why I didn't use thicker oil, and went with the factory, maybe the thinner oil cools somehow?? The engineers did it for a reason. For the front AWD system there is gear fluid, it takes just under a litre. BUT it is a pain to fill, getting access to the fill port is not easy if you don't have some type of a pump like I do. If you are planning on doing the front REMOVE THE FILL PLUG FIRST and make sure you can get in there to fill it. Hope I helped you out :)
@@robwhiff3411 Hi There, if memory serves me correctly the front fluid was standard gear oil, its SAE 90 if you are regularly above 0 degrees F, if you are colder its 80W90. I have no idea why its difference from the rear. I would check your manual just to make sure :)
Hey there, right in the beginning at the 9 second mark I show the manual, its just over 1 quart so you have to buy two so you are not low. With the IS250 you can probably get away with one quart, with the IS350 you are going to need two or you will be low.
@@c_h_r_i_s_t_c_o_r_e Anytime, you don't have to get the manual, but they are super helpful as those ones are REPAIR manuals like the OEM factory service manual. They are not like the Chilton ones you buy at the car stores.
@@GarageKing just bought one for my fiances 2006 Acura Tl unfortunately they didn’t have the 2014 Lexus is250. But I did use your code thank you for that. I enjoy the lifetime access to them
@@c_h_r_i_s_t_c_o_r_e They are a good service manual. I got one for a BMW I'm doing a starter on now. BMW........ Hope you are having a good weekend !!
just had this done on my car two weeks back. I changed my gaskets too. hardest part was getting the fluid. No Toyota/lexus dealer in my area had it, but was lucky to get it at a dealer in Toronto. Not cheap at $40/quart. I also changed my front diff fluid as well using the same fluid.
Hey There, you are right, the fluid is expensive, and I don't know why. I found it odd that it was in a steel container, as most everything is in plastic now. I found the fluid at a Mississauga dealership. Have a great weekend and thanks for the comment !!
im sorry, im not so informed about cars. Only AWD versions have front diff right ? So if i have a RWD, I just need to take care of the Rear diff fluid ?
@@aneeshprasobhan that's correct. you would follow as the video instructs
@@arjunsecondary thanks :)
Notice any difference
Passing down the knowledge!
You know it !!!!!
Damn and I thought my IS350 was rusty underneath, I'd recommend just having new plugs on hand especially with these hex driver types that you could easily round off on the inside.. Good on always checking that you can get the fill plug out first, it's not good if you drained the assembly only to find that you have no way to refill it.
Hey thanks for the comment and you know it. Always smart to make sure you can fill it before you drain it !!
Happy New Year!!
Happy New Year to you brother !!!!!!
There you go son!
You know it !!! He loves learning, and I'm really happy to teach him. This was a good moment !!!
Awesome, great walkthrough! Thanks for the heads-up on using a 3/8 hex, my diff is rusty too. Any tips on getting the car on all 4 jack stands so the car is level? My floor jack doesn't seem to reach the front cross member or the rear diff jack points without the pole touching the bumper. I bought the same oil from the Toyota dealer, just need to get around to doing it already lol.
Happy New Year to you, and thanks for the comment :) As far as jacking the car up, before I had the QuickJack system (I really love it - and did a review vid on it) I use to use jack stands all the time. I found that I had to use the jack on the side using the pinch weld, or as you correctly say, you wind up hitting the rear bumper, and you can't reach the cross member in the front. I would place my hydraulic floor jack a few inches from where the jack stand would be placed. I would also have to angle the jack so its not coming right out of the side of the car, or the pump mechanism winds up hitting the wall. So the jack was always on an angle to the car. I would always use pinch weld protectors like amzn.to/3t4A5wv or amzn.to/31hEDUH
I found that jacking up the vehicle so it was level helped with so many jobs, but you know it's actually really time consuming to do. Time yourself and you will be surprised at how long it takes !! It can be done, as I have done it way too many times, and finally I found the Quickjack system on sale at Costco and never looked back. Its safe, and quick. But to answer your question I use to use the pinch welds to get the car up high enough, but be careful, you may have to do it in 2 steps rotating the jack through the lift points, as one full lift on a corner may be too much at once. Keep that IS250/350 on the road, I love the vehicle !!! Very underrated and overlooked.
@@GarageKing Happy New Year! Thanks so much for the helpful tips!
you're a great teacher
Thank you, I really appreciate the comment :) Hope you enjoyed your day today :)
48 Like great video I was change my Harley davison fluid last week transmision drain hard to get to can not see it can only do by feel it, I do not have the jack for the bike, I think I end up cross treath the bolt small drip leak, need to take it out and do it again, rule number 1 never force anything when you work any motor😂😂
Such a good rule, never force anything, you are so right with that !! It's amazing how easily things can get damaged. I give you credit for trying, most people don't try, you do and that's good.
This video was very helpful cool your teaching your son, I was wondering for the front of my 2006 is250 do you recommend Toyota atf WS or do you use something else?
Hey there, gear oil in the front end :) You were mentioning Amsoil and I think thats a good way to go :)
Thanks for sharing, I hope I get to do the same with my future kid before we are all forced to drive electric toys that we won't be allowed to work on and have to take to the stealership.
You know it !!!
Would the hex bolt be the same on is350?
If you are talking about the one to drain the diff fluid yes, its the same.
Was that your first time to change the diff fluid in that car with over 300k miles? If so looks like it’s been over a year since you changed the diff fluid so have you have any issues with the diff since it had so many mile on the original fluid?
Hey There and thanks for the comment. Yup it was the first time its was ever changed. I know that as I bought the car from a neighbour so I was aware of its history. No issues at all. For a car with that many miles its been really good. I did do the exhaust on it, and I had to change the left rear axel as it was making noise (Haven't edited that video yet)
Wow, realize my car *could approach 332k miles like yours. I still have long away, but has been diy for my is250 maintaining herender and has 130k, still 1/3 of yours.
These cars have a lot of life in them if you keep them maintained !!! Thanks for the comment :)
I used valvoline
Many aftermarket oils are good. The things with a differential is they are quite durable.
@GarageKing I have a 07 is250, for rear differential do you recommend I guess the OE/factory oil you used in the vid or synthetic? Also does brand matter?
Hey There and thanks for the comment. I'm sure you could get away with a quality aftermarket oil. The engineers recommend 75W85 oil, so if you get that in a quality aftermarket you will be fine. I used the factory oil because this is not a job you do regularly, so I'll probably only do it once during my ownership of the car, so the extra cost really didn't matter much to me. Plus it took all the guessing out and I didn't have to worry about anything.
@@GarageKing forgive my ignorance but is there/ does front differential need to be changed? And is it the same as rear 75w85?
@@DaiLLSpoken Hey there, no problem at all with the questions, at least you want to learn so thats great. The front takes gear oil (but obviously you need to have an AWD vehicle) In warmer weather, above -18C or 0F you can use SAE 90, and below those temps its 80W90.
@@DaiLLSpoken Oh, forgot to add, the front diff usually does not get as dirty, but it still should be changed.
Hey bro, I will be changing my front differential fluid soon and I called the Lexus dealership and they said to use 80w 90 will that work on an 2007 is 250?
Hey there and thanks for the comment. If you scroll down in the comment you will see there was a pretty good oil discussion. 80W90 is the thickest so far. Some guys are using 75W90. The factory stuff that I bought in those cans in the videos was not 80W90, it was much thinner. I'm not sure where you live but if it gets really cold (winter is coming) that 80W90 barely flows, and not sure if it would lubricate enough. If Lexus dealer is telling you that's what they are using, its not recommended by the manufacturer, they are just going as cheap as they can as 80W90 is pretty cheap oil, as its usually not synthetic. Remember the engineers did spec out 75W85 oil. You should be fine, but I would maybe call another dealer just to confirm that they didn't quote you wrong.
What year is this car?
Hey there, its a 2010.
You can use Mobil 1 or valvoline synthetic 75w90.
Good to know, and thanks for the comment. Much appreciated :)
Since you have some experience on oil change , can I ask if there is any difference in 75w85 vs 75w90 ? I am buying a 2006 is250 AWD and just need some info do it my self, also is there a differential fluid in the front end to change besides the transmission fluid which I know is ATF WS ?
Thanks I appreciate your help
@@robwhiff3411 Hey there and thanks for the comment. There is a difference between 75W85 and 75W90. 75W90 is a little heavier. If you have ever taken apart a differential (I have) you will know the gears are big and very durable, so in the rear diff would it make a difference??? Probably not, but you never know. There is A LOT of pressure on those gear teeth. In addition to providing a film between the gear teeth, it has to protect the bearings. Also gear wear takes time, its not instant. So your vehicle may be fine for quite sometime, and then you get a "whine" in the rear and you need new gears. Now on the rear diff, you are probably ok, but I was bothered when I drained the diff, and saw how thin it was, that's why I didn't use thicker oil, and went with the factory, maybe the thinner oil cools somehow?? The engineers did it for a reason.
For the front AWD system there is gear fluid, it takes just under a litre. BUT it is a pain to fill, getting access to the fill port is not easy if you don't have some type of a pump like I do. If you are planning on doing the front REMOVE THE FILL PLUG FIRST and make sure you can get in there to fill it. Hope I helped you out :)
@@GarageKing thanks I see that makes sense , for the AWD system front fluid is it the same 75w85 as it is for the back ?
@@robwhiff3411 Hi There, if memory serves me correctly the front fluid was standard gear oil, its SAE 90 if you are regularly above 0 degrees F, if you are colder its 80W90. I have no idea why its difference from the rear. I would check your manual just to make sure :)
How many quarts ?
Hey there, right in the beginning at the 9 second mark I show the manual, its just over 1 quart so you have to buy two so you are not low. With the IS250 you can probably get away with one quart, with the IS350 you are going to need two or you will be low.
@@GarageKing thank you soo much
@@1996cutiebaby Anytime, this is one job you can save a few bucks on as its not that hard to do :)
How much did you actually drain though? I doubt it would be 1.15 qt as that's the full capacity. Probably 1 qt?
hey great video 🌹🌹🌹9 lik.e
Thank you !!!!
Yeah I’ll just take it to a shop
You could, or you could attempt yourself. Its a bit of a messy job without some type of pump.
My 2014 is250 dosent have which fluid to get in the owners manual 🤦♂️ good for nothing manual dosent even show how to do an oil change on there
This is what you need bit.ly/44zVazx and if you use GARAGEKING22 you get a discount. I use the manuals for many of my repairs.
@@GarageKing thank you
@@c_h_r_i_s_t_c_o_r_e Anytime, you don't have to get the manual, but they are super helpful as those ones are REPAIR manuals like the OEM factory service manual. They are not like the Chilton ones you buy at the car stores.
@@GarageKing just bought one for my fiances 2006 Acura Tl unfortunately they didn’t have the 2014 Lexus is250. But I did use your code thank you for that. I enjoy the lifetime access to them
@@c_h_r_i_s_t_c_o_r_e They are a good service manual. I got one for a BMW I'm doing a starter on now. BMW........ Hope you are having a good weekend !!