Yes. That would work as well. But I also run communication equipment from those outlets and for that reason its better to have the negative attached as close to the battery as possible.
Yes. I did it purposely this way I think for obvious reasons. If you are concerned about running your battery dead you can install a device inline with the wiring to disconnect the battery it once the battery voltage gets too low. Something like the Victron Energy Battery Protect 12/24-Volt 65 amp Device comes to mind.
If your rear 12v set up is always hot would you be concern about some drainage of your battery when you truck is off? Ultimately depleting your battery?
Wire link - powerwerx.com/power-wire-ultra-flexible Grommet kit - a.co/d/2IbDytd If you don't want to buy a whole grommet kit you be able find a single grommet in Lowes/Home Depot. I.D. of the grommet was 1/2" to fit the wire loom.
Great video! By the way, you may already have had a 12 volt constant wire nearby if you have a 7 pin trailer plug (or harness for one). It is usally a fairly heavy duty (30amp) circuit too. I also hope at 3:37 you didn't have plastic in your coffee! lol
Thanks. I was going to use the trailer harness constant but decided I wanted a direct line to the battery as well. There are times I will most likely use the new 15 amp circuit for portable amateur radio ops. I've probably had more than just plastic in the past fall into my coffee. I consider it flavor. LOL. Thanks for watching.
@@JonnyRichMusic at least a 15 amp if the new installed 12 volt outlet is the only device on the line to the battery. If you have 2 outlets on the same sized line with 15 amp fuses make sure to not exceed 15 amps when using both outlets (add amperage draw of both devices plugged into the 2 outlets. If you want 15 amps for each outlet- 1- you will need to either increase the wire size with a 30 amp fuse at the battery and each outlet with its own 15 amp fuse. or 2- run two separate wires, 1for each outlet. Each having its own 15 amp fuse as well. Hope this helps.
Im thinking of just removing the whole panel thats screwed into the side to make it much easier to do. Where did you get that fuse mount on the engine bay?
Where / how do you mount any relays with that aux fuse box? Trying to do the exact same thing, but I already have 3 relays from lights mounted on those two bolts holding up the bracket.
I have 2 relays mounted on the bracket with room for at least 2 more. I could probably mount more relays on the bracket with better planning on the location of all the fuse block on the bracket.
I made the bracket. There was no welding involved. I made a template from card board. Then bought a sheet of aluminum on Amazon. Made some strategic cuts with a grinder and saw then made the appropriate bend using a vice and some scrape angle iron to act almost like a bending brake. Hope this helps.
@@RandomGene I assume that is a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover: What brand is the Positive line pre- block you used before the Blue Sea?
Why did you need to run negative cables from the front? Wouldn't any connection to metal in the bed frame give you the negative?
Yes. That would work as well. But I also run communication equipment from those outlets and for that reason its better to have the negative attached as close to the battery as possible.
Thanks for this how to video. Does it remain “hot”/ON even when the truck is not running or in acc mode?
Yes. I did it purposely this way I think for obvious reasons. If you are concerned about running your battery dead you can install a device inline with the wiring to disconnect the battery it once the battery voltage gets too low. Something like the Victron Energy Battery Protect 12/24-Volt 65 amp Device comes to mind.
If your rear 12v set up is always hot would you be concern about some drainage of your battery when you truck is off? Ultimately depleting your battery?
Yes. I do need to be mindful to turn off or unplugged anything using the outlets when I am not using the truck.
@@RandomGene even if you unplug everything you will still have a parasitic draw on your battery right
@@ChuckNorris01 I guess that would depend what exactly is plugged in. I know the fridge I use does not have a parasitic draw.
Do you have a link to the 10 gauge , and the grommet
Wire link - powerwerx.com/power-wire-ultra-flexible
Grommet kit - a.co/d/2IbDytd
If you don't want to buy a whole grommet kit you be able find a single grommet in Lowes/Home Depot. I.D. of the grommet was 1/2" to fit the wire loom.
thanks for the vid...I'm thinking about the samething.. How much did you pay for the aux fuse box install?
Will a 16 gauge wire work ? Fridge only needs max 10 amps 80 watts.
Better off using 14 ga at 10 amps.
16ga can handle 10 amps, but not for long periods of time.
Great video! By the way, you may already have had a 12 volt constant wire nearby if you have a 7 pin trailer plug (or harness for one). It is usally a fairly heavy duty (30amp) circuit too. I also hope at 3:37 you didn't have plastic in your coffee! lol
Thanks. I was going to use the trailer harness constant but decided I wanted a direct line to the battery as well. There are times I will most likely use the new 15 amp circuit for portable amateur radio ops.
I've probably had more than just plastic in the past fall into my coffee. I consider it flavor. LOL. Thanks for watching.
How long was the wire ?
20' to start with a couple feet left over.
On the fuse holder you added, what amperage fuse did you use?
15 amp.
@@JonnyRichMusic at least a 15 amp if the new installed 12 volt outlet is the only device on the line to the battery. If you have 2 outlets on the same sized line with 15 amp fuses make sure to not exceed 15 amps when using both outlets (add amperage draw of both devices plugged into the 2 outlets.
If you want 15 amps for each outlet-
1- you will need to either increase the wire size with a 30 amp fuse at the battery and each outlet with its own 15 amp fuse.
or
2- run two separate wires, 1for each outlet. Each having its own 15 amp fuse as well.
Hope this helps.
Nice idea. Those look like some heavy duty zip ties.
I only buy the best
Im thinking of just removing the whole panel thats screwed into the side to make it much easier to do. Where did you get that fuse mount on the engine bay?
Do You ride with your freezer on the back of your truck
Only when I am actually using it.
Very nice want to do it as well. About what was the length of the wire you used?
I measured out 20' to start. Had a few feet left over.
Great idea! Awesome video and great detail👍
Thank You!
Where / how do you mount any relays with that aux fuse box? Trying to do the exact same thing, but I already have 3 relays from lights mounted on those two bolts holding up the bracket.
I have 2 relays mounted on the bracket with room for at least 2 more. I could probably mount more relays on the bracket with better planning on the location of all the fuse block on the bracket.
Thank you 🙏
Are you really holding the camera with one hand while you’re trying to work with the other?
What kind/type/size of circuit breaker switch do you use between battery and fuse panel?
Blue Sea systems circuit breaker.
They're available in various amperage ratings.
@@RandomGene
Thank you. Is that a custom aluminum bracket for the fuse panels ? You weld that up ?
I made the bracket. There was no welding involved. I made a template from card board.
Then bought a sheet of aluminum on Amazon. Made some strategic cuts with a grinder and saw then made the appropriate bend using a vice and some scrape angle iron to act almost like a bending brake.
Hope this helps.
This was the alum sheet I actually ordered:
Brand: RMP
RMP 3003 H14 Aluminum Sheet, 12 Inch x 12 Inch x 0.090 Inch Thickness
@@RandomGene
Thanks a ton. Great idea. New project now 😊
What type of aux fuse panel are you using ?
Blue Sea Systems
Great job! I too need to mount a 12 Volt for my Iceco fridge for my 2020 Tacoma Off Road. Thanks!
I get more use from the 12v outlet than I do the OEM 120v outlet. Thanks for watching.
@@RandomGene I assume that is a Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover: What brand is the Positive line pre- block you used before the Blue Sea?
@@tedspirakis627 You are correct concerning the fuse block. The "pre-block" is a Bussmann CB185-100 100 Amp Type III Circuit Breaker.
@@RandomGene Thanks! Cheers!
I also would’ve put the outlet inside of the box and then made it just a small little notch in the door
I would have put in two 12v outlets since you have room.
Excellent idea
Nice !!!!
Nice video
SUPER GOOD JOB 👍👍👍
Great iob