@@jimbanville might have been using bought adapter for them 20 years or anything we dont know, maybe they learned about the depth thing, who knows butbsomething learned is a good thing
Very interesting but not always feasible. In my specific case there is plenty of room in the door for the speaker's magnet but no extra gap at all between top speaker and door's panel. For my installation I was a bit limited but also I decided to use the stereo own amplifier (plenty of power), high efficient speakers (93db) and a under seat amplified subwoofer. I love the setup and that proves that in the car you don't need mega watts but instead quality and enjoyment!
Discovered this channel halfway through my first installation and these videos are impressive as hell. At 01:34 you mention bolting speakers directly to the door, which is how I'd like to proceed given that I have no woodworking equipment. I'm curious to know some of the steps you would have taken if you'd gone that route. Long story short my vehicle is a rare exception and the bracket doesn't work, so I've found myself needing to "ghetto it" like so many else on RUclips with my car. You've already earned my subscription but that would be the perfect video: "How to custom mount speakers only with stuff from your local hardware store". That's pretty much what I'm workin with aside from the tools needed for an average install. Your videos have inspired me to pull all my trim up again to jerry rig these speakers better. The mounts secure, it's the seal on an uneven surface that presents a challenge. Keep up the great work! :)
Free Tips on making custom speaker mounts: You are not making a speaker ring (or spacer) you are making a structure to hold a driver that may weigh up to 2 pounds vertical in a door metal cutout that is subject to several vibration and shock modes. 1) Use black HDPE instead of Expanded PVC (for many reasons, mainly strength and rigidity). 2) Have the door side mount pilot on the metal round cutout in the door, this will help eliminate shear forces on the hardware used to attach it to the door, and also use 3M Polyurethane (it is a sealent and not a glue) to prevent rotation. You could use epoxy but the 3M Polyurethane will allow you to remove the mount. You can use rivnuts (Treated Steel or SS) or large serrated flange nylock nuts (18-8 SS) to attach the mount to the door. 3) Use countersink screws (Flat head Torx drive 18-8 SS) to attach the mount to the door. 4) Have the driver outer circumference (circular frame) recess (pilot) into the front side of the mount. This will help remove shear forces on the hardware holding the driver to the mount. Which gives more options for the type of fastener used to attach the driver to the mount. 5) Use Heat-Set Inserts (303 SS) for plastic (melted into the HDPE, this is one reason to use HDPE) to attach the driver to the mount. Use the largest size Insert that will match the available clearance and driver holes (often a metric sized screw). 6) All hardware should be 18-8 SS. In the rust belt salt spray seems to get everywhere eventually. 7) You can fit larger drivers by stacking the mount outward (greater diameters) if you pilot as you stack forming a sort of outward cone. You can also make the outer ring match up with the door panel if you want to use a custom grille (3D printed SLA or metal mesh) to attach the door panel to the mount. This will keep everything tight.
Sounds like a lot of good info. Care to make a video on it? Being shown, instead of just reading and then trying to duplicate it, is often a lot harder to do, than if one sees how to do it. Thanks.
Mobilesolutions-usa.com has you covered 👌 Just remember it would be impossible for them to have a ring that fits every speaker in existence, so to get to the right size you can use the technique I show in the video with the eco tray.
Wow! JL sure is proud of the C3 series. I guess it's sticker shock from the days of accommodation pricing. Time to put on some Chapstick and give Lucio a call.
Great video as usual but a ? If using the c3 as coax and c5 coax in rear why not use c5 coax all the way around or c3 coax in rear. I mean why use the better series in the back? Thanks
someone named Mark from CAF made my speaker adaptor rings. they're awesome. like someone below, I am most interested in that rivet setter. what I have is not nearly that slick. where do I find that please?
Can or do you have the router bits you used for this design? I am wanting to make a bracket and would love to know where I can buy the bits and what they are called.
I bought some adaptor rings for my 1998 Passat. I'm installing a Audio System double kicker set because I don't have rear passengers in my car so the backdoors only going to get a mid kick woofer. But i am in doubt of with of my amp's im going to run. I could chose between a Audioson SRx2S, Audioson LRx6.9 (that gives me some options on bi wirering and still have a option for adding a subwoofer) og a Hertz HP2X 🤷♂️
Nice work again 😃 and just to let you know, I could of used this video when I did my doors.🤪 Now I'll be taking out the foam rigging and do it right. Yes there's kits and other videos on this. But the VW beetle is not on the aftermarket parts list. I tried one's for the Jetta/golf.. but it was no good. Other people are using fancy tools. This is simple. 👍
Man. When I was a young, ignorant (in the literal sense) bass head, Crutchfield was the cheap shit. Pyle, pyramid, etc… I found out 4-5 years ago that that’s FAR from the case now. And their customer support is awesome!
I fell like I would've made a groove like a 1/4 that size for the speaker wire to run through or just pushed it through the grommet and kept it inside the door.
What material is that? I’m doing a diy stereo install and I’m having a ton of trouble with my bracket. It’d be nice to have a custom one so it’s sealed perfectly.
So in your professional opinion: is it possible to make an adapter to fit a 6x9 in a 6.5 slot in a door? I have 6.5s right now but I kind of want to give 6x9s a shot. So I want to know if I can make one without having to cut the door..
Great episode. Just one question; Do you have to seal the hole the wires pass through to prevent air leaks around the speaker/trim ring basket? Keep up the great work.
I'd use Silicone gel, but that's me. It would be harder to remove later but I wouldn't use the gel till the speaker install was tested and complete. The problem with the tape is it will still flex under pressure, whereas the silicon once hardened won't flex in the slightest. Again, the tape IS a perfectly acceptable solution, I'm not arguing against its use. Just offering a different one.
@@CarAudioFabrication it takes a little work but Silicon will come off cleanly. I couldn't tell since the sound treatment was already covering it, was the factory wire outside of the door panel it's entire length?
Could you do a video of installing speakers in the bed of a truck and in the cab. But being able to turn off the ones in the bed and leave the ones in the cab on. And maybe will your doing that make it so the ones in the bed run off a second battery so they can play when the trucks off
Albert Bellas you can get them at Harbor Freight. I got one for $25 and it included 8 sizes of rivets / nut zerts and 10 of each size. Only issue is as of a year ago they didn't carry separate zerts/ rivets, only the kit. They do sell them separately online though.
The expanded PVC can be found at big box hardware stores: ruclips.net/video/G9hZ1H9m7Ko/видео.html&ab_channel=CarAudioFabrication Acrylics come from local plastics supplier.
Hey Mark! Love your content, very jealous of your shop setup, but always impressed by your quality of work and quality of content! If I only have one critique, I do notice a difference in quality between your voiceovers and your "selfie" cam. Wondering if you should add some sound deadening to your cabinets and/or ceiling in order to reduce the amount of echo going on in your shop? I think that may offer some good content and improve your final product! Great stuff, excited to see the next video!
Lmao I just received this headunit from crutchfield today. Thanks for the content btw I've been binging the past week while deciding what to do with my system.
Hey. Need some help with an amplifier. It is a 4 channel amp that can be bridged to 2x240w, right. So if I add 2 independent speakers to another 2 free channels, how will the power be distributed? Do I lose that 240w from a sub and that will be shared to those other channels?
One day I'll have a garage where I can actually do all this fabrication...until then, it's the hard way or it ain't happenin' lol...doesn't stop me, though...onward and upward!
Didn't the ring push the speaker way out (1" closer to the door skin)? But the gap between the grill and speaker got bigger so you added foam (fast ring). What am I missing? How did that gap get bigger instead of way tighter, or even push the speaker out beyond the plane of the grille?
Intrigued why you opted to go for coax instead of component seeing as the factory has tweeters higher up in the door panel? Surely dragging the sound stage down is a bad idea generally speaking so curious what i'm missing.
@@CarAudioFabrication Sounds likely. Here in the UK we are not even able to order the base models from any of the German manufacturers. Mercedes and BMW are much worse, but VW do it as well. The entry level spec for the UK is usually the mid range one for Germany and maybe the rest of the world? Thanks for taking the time to reply. Love the work you do. You have a skill of making things look so easy but as a DIY enthusiast doing car audio for 20 years, I know what you show in a short video is sometimes very time consuming and takes a lot of care and attention to get right!
@@CarAudioFabrication we can sure hope so! With your talent and personality, I feel like it would be really easy for you to expand and grow your business if you wanted. That way maybe I can inadvertently work for you at least😁 keep up the work, love what you do and really appreciate your channel! I’ve learned sooo much from you
JL are sonically more accurate in their tonal representation. They are typically unaltered. Focal are always going to be bright and crisp. Every DSP tuner can tell you that they have to attenuate the top end in a focal build.
Question, how much clearance should there be between the back of the speaker and the exterior door panel? If it’s too close will the metal interfere with the magnetic field of the speaker? I need to include that in my calculation to see how much room I actually have to work with.
Many times for a mid or small woofer like in the video the basket of the speaker is made out of steel (which is ferrous), and the permanent magnet field is local and focused on the voice coil, so near by ferrous objects close to the magnet should not make a noticeable difference in driver operation.
How are you going to hold a nut on the back? If you go to service and remove the speaker how do you prevent a nut from falling. Any "solution" here would require somehow sticking the nut to the back, which is why using a threaded rivet is the correct way to do this
I have a 2011 santa fe with the base system and separate tweeters. I was thinking about putting a pair of jvc 2 ways I have laying around in the front doors. Do you know if it would cause any problems? From what I’ve gathered the front and rear 6.5s are the same but there’s not a lot of information online
You may find that you don't get as good of sound when you only replace the speakers. A factory system typically doesn't have the power to make aftermarket speakers sound all that great, but amplify them and you will get better results.
@@CarAudioFabrication I have an aftermarket head unit and the speakers are high sensitivity low rms so the power should be a good match. I can compensate some if it’s too bright with the hu settings.
I know it's unrelated to what you're doing but I would appreciate it if you made a video about how some car audio places throw a bunch of incompatible audio parts at paying customers and giving them subpar audio systems. An example I paid $2,500 for a car audio system and it barely sounded louder than my stock system even with its amplifier and me tuning the settings. This has happened to multiple people that I know including myself.
You want Mark to whinge at some unknown store’s poor service on your behalf? There was nothing stopping you from doing research and learning what components work
Hey Mark. Let me just 1st off say that their does not exist wordz 2 describe u yo! U r just 100% totally beyond belief! Plz keep sharing & teaching. Question. I currently have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra base model. And need 2 know if it'z possible 4 me 2 with custom fab of course, replace my factory oem 6.5" door wooferz with 8" wooferz? Thx. Peace.
Nobody ever shows how to fasten the plastic ring,,,,and instead of holes,, it is sloted ,,,please clarify if you see this comment,, anyone please ! TY,,,,😎👍📢🎶🎶🎶🎶😜
The only negative thing to say about this channel is that we CAN'T go to YOUR shop and have YOU install our car audio system. None of the local car audio shop nearby are as competent as you are.
I appreciate that, to be fair though the reason I can take more time to do things is because I am not up against a clock. I know many guys that own shops that are incredible at what they do, but the added time needs to be covered, and at $100+ per hour it can add up.
Could you do a video of installing speakers in the bed of a truck and in the cab. But being able to turn off the ones in the bed and leave the ones in the cab on. And maybe will your doing that make it so the ones in the bed run off a second battery so they can play when the trucks off
Been doing installs for over 20 yrs and I still learn from this guy
You've been installing stereos for 20 years and you learned something new in this video???
Thats awesome, glad to help.
Theirs always new things to learn everyday my guy 👍🏽
@@jimbanville might have been using bought adapter for them 20 years or anything we dont know, maybe they learned about the depth thing, who knows butbsomething learned is a good thing
Grats on 500K Mark!! You earned it, you're the best fabrication teacher I've seen on RUclips.
Wow, thanks for the compliment, appreciate that!
Yeah...he's fooled me into thinking I can do this myself! LOL
Fluent... Clear.... Simple... And to the point, is what this channel profess every time I watch.
Idk about "to the point". But I'm not a shill so who cares right?
Dude I just bought a Jetta and started matting my trunk. Just found your channel and the fact you also did a Jetta is a blessing
I wish everything cut as effortless on the router as that material does ....awesome video
Very interesting but not always feasible.
In my specific case there is plenty of room in the door for the speaker's magnet but no extra gap at all between top speaker and door's panel.
For my installation I was a bit limited but also I decided to use the stereo own amplifier (plenty of power), high efficient speakers (93db) and a under seat amplified subwoofer.
I love the setup and that proves that in the car you don't need mega watts but instead quality and enjoyment!
Discovered this channel halfway through my first installation and these videos are impressive as hell. At 01:34 you mention bolting speakers directly to the door, which is how I'd like to proceed given that I have no woodworking equipment. I'm curious to know some of the steps you would have taken if you'd gone that route.
Long story short my vehicle is a rare exception and the bracket doesn't work, so I've found myself needing to "ghetto it" like so many else on RUclips with my car. You've already earned my subscription but that would be the perfect video: "How to custom mount speakers only with stuff from your local hardware store". That's pretty much what I'm workin with aside from the tools needed for an average install. Your videos have inspired me to pull all my trim up again to jerry rig these speakers better. The mounts secure, it's the seal on an uneven surface that presents a challenge.
Keep up the great work! :)
Free Tips on making custom speaker mounts:
You are not making a speaker ring (or spacer) you are making a structure to hold a driver that may weigh up to 2 pounds vertical in a door metal cutout that is subject to several vibration and shock modes.
1) Use black HDPE instead of Expanded PVC (for many reasons, mainly strength and rigidity).
2) Have the door side mount pilot on the metal round cutout in the door, this will help eliminate shear forces on the hardware used to attach it to the door, and also use 3M Polyurethane (it is a sealent and not a glue) to prevent rotation. You could use epoxy but the 3M Polyurethane will allow you to remove the mount. You can use rivnuts (Treated Steel or SS) or large serrated flange nylock nuts (18-8 SS) to attach the mount to the door.
3) Use countersink screws (Flat head Torx drive 18-8 SS) to attach the mount to the door.
4) Have the driver outer circumference (circular frame) recess (pilot) into the front side of the mount. This will help remove shear forces on the hardware holding the driver to the mount. Which gives more options for the type of fastener used to attach the driver to the mount.
5) Use Heat-Set Inserts (303 SS) for plastic (melted into the HDPE, this is one reason to use HDPE) to attach the driver to the mount. Use the largest size Insert that will match the available clearance and driver holes (often a metric sized screw).
6) All hardware should be 18-8 SS. In the rust belt salt spray seems to get everywhere eventually.
7) You can fit larger drivers by stacking the mount outward (greater diameters) if you pilot as you stack forming a sort of outward cone. You can also make the outer ring match up with the door panel if you want to use a custom grille (3D printed SLA or metal mesh) to attach the door panel to the mount. This will keep everything tight.
Sounds like a lot of good info. Care to make a video on it? Being shown, instead of just reading and then trying to duplicate it, is often a lot harder to do, than if one sees how to do it. Thanks.
I always get router envy watching this channel :)
Me too
Hello Mark Can you add the Link where you purchased the threaded rivot tool for drill attachment? thanks and killer video btw
Hey man, just discovered your videos yesterday - love them! Also, your garage is awesome! Love the setup and organization.
Sure do congratulate you on 500K! That’s real good! Stay safe mates!😊👍🏻😷
That speaker ring template is awesome. I need to get one of those.
Mobilesolutions-usa.com has you covered 👌 Just remember it would be impossible for them to have a ring that fits every speaker in existence, so to get to the right size you can use the technique I show in the video with the eco tray.
Where do you get the acrylic for the speaker adapters? Great vids. Thanks for spreading your knowledge.
Wow! JL sure is proud of the C3 series. I guess it's sticker shock from the days of accommodation pricing. Time to put on some Chapstick and give Lucio a call.
Quality products have a price 😎
I love crutchfield! I only order from there even if other retailers are cheaper
Love these videos! I was just looking at your older videos in speaker adapters.
Great video as usual but a ? If using the c3 as coax and c5 coax in rear why not use c5 coax all the way around or c3 coax in rear. I mean why use the better series in the back? Thanks
This also confuses me. The c5 tweeters are light years smoother than the c3. 🤔 Why Mark? Surely there is a reason here.
Can you put the link for the rivet nut tool plz and thank you
Congratulations mark on 500k. Great videos, your videos are very informitive , really neat work you do. Keep it up the great work bro..
someone named Mark from CAF made my speaker adaptor rings. they're awesome. like someone below, I am most interested in that rivet setter. what I have is not nearly that slick. where do I find that please?
where can I get some cellular pvc sheet? been looking for some at the local hardware store, no luck so far...
This is an awesome resource…thanks for sharing! Subscribed!🎉
What is the name of the tool you use to secure those metal bases to the door?
Can or do you have the router bits you used for this design? I am wanting to make a bracket and would love to know where I can buy the bits and what they are called.
Did you have a link to the material used?
Thanks for all your time and great information. .
I bought some adaptor rings for my 1998 Passat. I'm installing a Audio System double kicker set because I don't have rear passengers in my car so the backdoors only going to get a mid kick woofer.
But i am in doubt of with of my amp's im going to run. I could chose between a Audioson SRx2S, Audioson LRx6.9 (that gives me some options on bi wirering and still have a option for adding a subwoofer) og a Hertz HP2X 🤷♂️
Nice work again 😃 and just to let you know, I could of used this video when I did my doors.🤪 Now I'll be taking out the foam rigging and do it right. Yes there's kits and other videos on this. But the VW beetle is not on the aftermarket parts list. I tried one's for the Jetta/golf.. but it was no good. Other people are using fancy tools. This is simple. 👍
Man. When I was a young, ignorant (in the literal sense) bass head, Crutchfield was the cheap shit. Pyle, pyramid, etc… I found out 4-5 years ago that that’s FAR from the case now. And their customer support is awesome!
I fell like I would've made a groove like a 1/4 that size for the speaker wire to run through or just pushed it through the grommet and kept it inside the door.
These videos are on point man, great work on the channel!
What material is that? I’m doing a diy stereo install and I’m having a ton of trouble with my bracket. It’d be nice to have a custom one so it’s sealed perfectly.
So in your professional opinion: is it possible to make an adapter to fit a 6x9 in a 6.5 slot in a door? I have 6.5s right now but I kind of want to give 6x9s a shot. So I want to know if I can make one without having to cut the door..
Great info. Thanks for sharing.
Why would you want all the sound coming from your feet? I'm fighting that exact problem in my 1998 Firebird. Good tips on install though.
Sir if possible please make a video on chevorlet spark in which you made modifications in door panels to install the speakers.
@CarAudioFabrication they are JL C3 convertible good sounding speaker
Loved Crutchfield auto
Great episode. Just one question; Do you have to seal the hole the wires pass through to prevent air leaks around the speaker/trim ring basket? Keep up the great work.
Yes, I did with speaker gasket tape as noted in the video. :)
I'd use Silicone gel, but that's me. It would be harder to remove later but I wouldn't use the gel till the speaker install was tested and complete. The problem with the tape is it will still flex under pressure, whereas the silicon once hardened won't flex in the slightest.
Again, the tape IS a perfectly acceptable solution, I'm not arguing against its use. Just offering a different one.
That could work too, although it could be a pain if you need to return the factory state.
@@CarAudioFabrication it takes a little work but Silicon will come off cleanly. I couldn't tell since the sound treatment was already covering it, was the factory wire outside of the door panel it's entire length?
No, but inside the door cavity the wire bundle lives within a rubber tube. There is no just isolating the speaker wires unless you cut the tube.
What material is the speaker ring made from?
Expanded PVC.
Nice and wow you hit over 500,000 subscribes that was a good lesson on making speaker rings ⭕
Could you do a video of installing speakers in the bed of a truck and in the cab. But being able to turn off the ones in the bed and leave the ones in the cab on.
And maybe will your doing that make it so the ones in the bed run off a second battery so they can play when the trucks off
Link for the rivet setter? That's a sweet piece!
Albert Bellas you can get them at Harbor Freight. I got one for $25 and it included 8 sizes of rivets / nut zerts and 10 of each size. Only issue is as of a year ago they didn't carry separate zerts/ rivets, only the kit. They do sell them separately online though.
Wish you just sold these spacers need them for my boat to fit my new speakers
Where do you purchase your plastics (abs/hope/expanded pvc) Mark?
Walmart sells hdp cutting boards for 89 cents . Cuts really easy and dirt cheap
The expanded PVC can be found at big box hardware stores: ruclips.net/video/G9hZ1H9m7Ko/видео.html&ab_channel=CarAudioFabrication Acrylics come from local plastics supplier.
How can i get adaptors for my 1993 bmw 740il dash speakers from factory 3 inch to 3.5 inch speakers
Hey Mark! Love your content, very jealous of your shop setup, but always impressed by your quality of work and quality of content!
If I only have one critique, I do notice a difference in quality between your voiceovers and your "selfie" cam. Wondering if you should add some sound deadening to your cabinets and/or ceiling in order to reduce the amount of echo going on in your shop? I think that may offer some good content and improve your final product!
Great stuff, excited to see the next video!
do you even speaker adapter bro 😂
as always, thanks for your expertise shared!!!
Would I be able to make one like these going from a 6x8 location to 6x9? A audio shop told me I wouldn't be able to do this
Like to see you go Bigger. With a 8in Component speaker setup. And or a 6x9 Adapter for front door and rear doors.
Lmao I just received this headunit from crutchfield today. Thanks for the content btw I've been binging the past week while deciding what to do with my system.
Do those rings really make a difference, or are the benefits more theoretical?
Very clean. Question though, are you using crossovers?
That looks a lot better than an epoxy and sheetrock screws
Hey. Need some help with an amplifier. It is a 4 channel amp that can be bridged to 2x240w, right. So if I add 2 independent speakers to another 2 free channels, how will the power be distributed? Do I lose that 240w from a sub and that will be shared to those other channels?
I wanted to see the door panel placed back over the speaker/adapter setup
Great video, and as always great advice.
Glad it was helpful!
One day I'll have a garage where I can actually do all this fabrication...until then, it's the hard way or it ain't happenin' lol...doesn't stop me, though...onward and upward!
Watchin this till the new vid drops.
Awesome! Its live now! (I see you already commented. :) ) Watch i there: ruclips.net/video/tKqelYJqmXw/видео.html
nice work always nice tutorials for me
Appreciate that, thanks for watching
Didn't the ring push the speaker way out (1" closer to the door skin)? But the gap between the grill and speaker got bigger so you added foam (fast ring). What am I missing? How did that gap get bigger instead of way tighter, or even push the speaker out beyond the plane of the grille?
Stock adapter was out far too
Intrigued why you opted to go for coax instead of component seeing as the factory has tweeters higher up in the door panel? Surely dragging the sound stage down is a bad idea generally speaking so curious what i'm missing.
The doors panels don't have tweeters high up or I would have gone that route. Custom fabbing sails or pillars was out of the budget on this build.
@@CarAudioFabrication weird! Must be a difference between Euro and US spec on the Jetta then. Over here we have tweeters up high.
Depends on trim level.
@@CarAudioFabrication Sounds likely. Here in the UK we are not even able to order the base models from any of the German manufacturers. Mercedes and BMW are much worse, but VW do it as well. The entry level spec for the UK is usually the mid range one for Germany and maybe the rest of the world?
Thanks for taking the time to reply. Love the work you do. You have a skill of making things look so easy but as a DIY enthusiast doing car audio for 20 years, I know what you show in a short video is sometimes very time consuming and takes a lot of care and attention to get right!
Do you make custom speaker spacers/rings?
Man I’d love to work for or with you, there’s no telling how much I’ll learn and how much fun I’ll have😄
Haha maybe someday 😅
@@CarAudioFabrication we can sure hope so! With your talent and personality, I feel like it would be really easy for you to expand and grow your business if you wanted. That way maybe I can inadvertently work for you at least😁 keep up the work, love what you do and really appreciate your channel! I’ve learned sooo much from you
How do you feel about JL vs Focal in terms of build quality and your SQ preferences?
Both are excellent! By far some of the best.
I get it of you don't have a preference. The whole system and the setup matter as much as a given speaker brands signature sound profile.
JL are sonically more accurate in their tonal representation. They are typically unaltered. Focal are always going to be bright and crisp. Every DSP tuner can tell you that they have to attenuate the top end in a focal build.
Question, how much clearance should there be between the back of the speaker and the exterior door panel? If it’s too close will the metal interfere with the magnetic field of the speaker? I need to include that in my calculation to see how much room I actually have to work with.
Many times for a mid or small woofer like in the video the basket of the speaker is made out of steel (which is ferrous), and the permanent magnet field is local and focused on the voice coil, so near by ferrous objects close to the magnet should not make a noticeable difference in driver operation.
Wouldn't it be easier to use a nut instead of a threaded rivet to attach a mounting ring with bolts?
How are you going to hold a nut on the back? If you go to service and remove the speaker how do you prevent a nut from falling. Any "solution" here would require somehow sticking the nut to the back, which is why using a threaded rivet is the correct way to do this
Don't the fast rings get stuck around the woofer? That's what I did
Its the same thing to stick them on the door panel or around the speaker. It bridges the same gap.
@@CarAudioFabrication true. Just assumed it would be more accurately lined up if stuck around the cone
I have a 2011 santa fe with the base system and separate tweeters. I was thinking about putting a pair of jvc 2 ways I have laying around in the front doors. Do you know if it would cause any problems? From what I’ve gathered the front and rear 6.5s are the same but there’s not a lot of information online
You may find that you don't get as good of sound when you only replace the speakers. A factory system typically doesn't have the power to make aftermarket speakers sound all that great, but amplify them and you will get better results.
@@CarAudioFabrication I have an aftermarket head unit and the speakers are high sensitivity low rms so the power should be a good match. I can compensate some if it’s too bright with the hu settings.
Mark can I use the speaker adapters that came from Crutchfield?
Yes, but in the case of this vehicle they aren't large enough to fit the speakers I used, which is the whole point.
🤦🏽♂️they won't fit my 2018 vw jetta 😢
Do you sell those speakers rings on your website?
What is the material your using for these rings?
Check out my other video: ruclips.net/video/G9hZ1H9m7Ko/видео.html&ab_channel=CarAudioFabrication
Mark congrats on your 5k! In what state r u located?
Thanks I just 👍 and subbed
With all the specialized tools you have, I'm surprised you don't have a drill press.
How can I wire up 1 subwoofer to a 2ch amp?
Bridge the channel outputs if the amp allows for it.
Thanks
I knew it was going to a vw.
I know it's unrelated to what you're doing but I would appreciate it if you made a video about how some car audio places throw a bunch of incompatible audio parts at paying customers and giving them subpar audio systems. An example I paid $2,500 for a car audio system and it barely sounded louder than my stock system even with its amplifier and me tuning the settings. This has happened to multiple people that I know including myself.
You want Mark to whinge at some unknown store’s poor service on your behalf?
There was nothing stopping you from doing research and learning what components work
Nice tutorial
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching!
Standard speaker 5 1/4
Me I want 10” mid base and 8” midrange ....
Hey Mark. Let me just 1st off say that their does not exist wordz 2 describe u yo! U r just 100% totally beyond belief! Plz keep sharing & teaching. Question. I currently have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra base model. And need 2 know if it'z possible 4 me 2 with custom fab of course, replace my factory oem 6.5" door wooferz with 8" wooferz? Thx. Peace.
Legenda in português please.🙏
I don't know, why but I thought ( in the thumbnail) that the speaker was in a washing machine 😂
Nobody ever shows how to fasten the plastic ring,,,,and instead of holes,, it is sloted ,,,please clarify if you see this comment,, anyone please !
TY,,,,😎👍📢🎶🎶🎶🎶😜
thumbs up during ad
You're the best! Thanks!
@@CarAudioFabrication I appreciate you saying this!! Also Thanks the time to make the great YT content ill be tuning in Feq.
Nice video but coaxial speakers are generally crap to begin with.
Nice👍🏿
I just 3d print my speaker adapter rings
Does anyone else get have a want for more tools after watching this 😅
great vids ,,need more watching ,,help stop all these nasty sounding systems from being on the road ...
Thanks for watching! You can help by sharing with people, much appreciated 👍
Yes👍 I can't stand the all tweeter and all bass only Guy's.
Man i need tools
Put the car's speaker harness back through the same hole it came out of. It was inside the door already. Wtf.
swell video
The only negative thing to say about this channel is that we CAN'T go to YOUR shop and have YOU install our car audio system. None of the local car audio shop nearby are as competent as you are.
I appreciate that, to be fair though the reason I can take more time to do things is because I am not up against a clock. I know many guys that own shops that are incredible at what they do, but the added time needs to be covered, and at $100+ per hour it can add up.
Could you do a video of installing speakers in the bed of a truck and in the cab. But being able to turn off the ones in the bed and leave the ones in the cab on.
And maybe will your doing that make it so the ones in the bed run off a second battery so they can play when the trucks off
🤣
@@kellypg what