This tool is so simple to use. Cost in California is $60 and a 90 return. Returned it the next day since I got it at night. I used my old inner pad to press in the piston. As the piston is very deep in my 2000 chevy tahoe limited 5.7ltr OBS. Thank you for your video. 😁
Thanks for this, it saved me some time and made me feel a little stupid at the same time. I knew that force plate had to go on there but for the life of me couldn't figure out how to get either the t-handle to come off or the other end. It was pretty funny to see how easy it was to just slide the t-handle one way and then the other when I had put so much effort into it. BUT, I'll know next time! I tried to go with the universal block adapter at first($10) but found it impossible to put enough pressure on it while turning the piston. At O'Reilly's Auto Parts you have to leave a $60.00 deposit for the tool set and it's well worth it! Anyway, I got it done and this video helped so thanks for that.
Check on eBay for these universal tools to keep in the garage, I paid £12 delivered ($15) for a 22pc set with left and right hand rewinders and plates that should fit any car
Thanks. Just used this tool on my rx7's 30yr old brake calipers that haven't been used in about 10 years. Took my He-Man strength cause they were seized, but I was able to get my new brake pads in and on the rotors. Saved about 150$ for reman calipers.
coming across this video as i got my brake caliber tool exackly like your's from harbor freight, i can now put my new brake pads on thank you so much for showing me this demostration how to use this tool. i subscribed and gave this video a thumbs up
Never put pads on my daughter 2003 Mini Cooper before, Frt's went on the old "C" clamp way to compress the cylinders, but the backs use the screw in types, like your video showed. Luckily I watched the video before I attempted the backs, glad I did, then they went on fine. Thanks for putting this on RUclips, you saved me and probably a lot of other people from doing the back one's wrong. Didn't know the back one's screwed in. Never to old to learn something new. Thanks again. Phillip
Love RUclips, it's my "go to" place when I start a project or "need to know" something about a job I'm not familiar with. It always come through. Thanks for being there for us "shade tree" mechanics. We truly appreciate that.
You don't have to open your bleeder screw. Instead open the brake fluid reservoir under the hood of your car and put a towel around it, as the fluid will oozes out as push back the caliber's piston. Once you get your job completely done, make sure to fill up the braking fluid.
you can use a vacuum pump to suck out some fluid if it has been topped off before you push the piston in a vacuum pump works great bleeding too, but you can use it to suck out old power steering fluid or any fluid in a reservoir
It can be done without opening the bleeder. However, sometimes when you do not open the bleeder dirt gets pushed back into the system and has the potential to cause damage on ABS equipped vehicles.
Lmao, wtf?? The bleeder screw is not a defect, ffs. It's there to be used, to make your own life easier! If you are unlucky enough to have a brake system without the capacity to bleed fluid from the caliper, yes, you'll have to play around with fluid at the master cylinder, but... WHY on God's green Earth would anybody actually RECOMMEND ignoring the colossal convenience of a freaking bleeder screw in favour of clowning around, pushing fluid back through the system??! Lmao... well I guess that's what we can expect from the Internet... any and all wacky ways of deliberately making your own life harder. 😂
The piston in the caliper should be able to be easily pushed back into the caliper. No need for breaking the bleeder. If it's taking a lot to push back into the caliper you might want to look into replacing.
Thank you! I bought this set because i own 4 vehicles plus friends and such. I went to use it and no instructions! I figured someone here would show me how it is done. Cheers!
You don’t have to open the bleeder but it’s good to let some of that old fluid out rather than recycle it over and over, if it collects to much moisture I’ve heard it can cause the brakes to fail when very hot
I have a 2008 Ford Taurus X SEL. The caliper on my L/R wheel screws in Clockwise. The caliper on my R/R wheel screws in CounterClockwise. There are other Caliper Piston Tool sets with a L/H screw and R/H screw included. Not just one screw, just to let you guys know.
the main thing i needed this for was for how to get the spreader on the tool....when i seen you slide it on the other end i felt like an idiot good vid
dude that's what brought me here too... I looked at the two pieces and how it was supposed to be and I was like how the heck do I get this dang thing on here? Looked at it for like 5 mins then just youtubed it hahahahahahah sometimes we all need a little help...but got the 3/4 brakes today after that. just need 1 more for tomorrow
Thank you so very much for putting this video up 😀😀 Just bought a brake kit like the one you're using and replacing all 4 rotors and pads. It's so much easier to understand when you can watch and visualise rather than just reading a blurb. Already subscribed 😀😀😀
I agree with Gray Anderson. No need to open the bleeder valve. I also have just opened the cap. And I have used the old pads and a long screwdriver or a pry bar to push it back in. If you have the $ for the tool then it looks like it would be a lot easier.
klowny1969 The only time I have opened the bleeder valve was to push the caliper back in by hand because I didn’t have a pry bar. Or to bleed the system after replacing the caliper. I guess there are times it needs opening. You did a great video. I am not putting it down. I have never used the tool and was interested in how one worked. After watching it. I thought looks like a cool tool. It just seemed a little weird to me that if your opening the valve then why use the tool? It goes back real easy with just using your hands. Without opening it it’s a bit tougher and the tool would be much better then a pry bar so there is little chance in damaging the caliper. But again in all it’s a good video. ✌🏽
It's good practice to always open the bleeder and apply a tiny amount of anti-seize so it doesn't rust shut over time. But opening the brake fluid cap works too if you're in a rush.
dont open bleeder;; open the master cylinder cap, the pressure will relieve and the brake cylinder reservoir will fill up or catch the fluid you press into it. less messy, and no lost fluid to fill, cheaper cost.
couple things..you should NEVER open the master cylinder reservoir when pushing fluid back in, because it can spill over and end up on ur car paint. .and brake fluid eats up paint..secondly, the reason you bleed as u push the piston in os because the dirtiest part of the fluid is in your caliper..that can end up in your abs solenoid and clog it..also the seals on your master cylinder piston are only designed to go one way..pushing the fluid back into ur reservoir can unseat the seals and then u have no brakes..thanks for watching
It's better to open the bleeder because that is going to be contaminated fluid that you want to get rid of anyway. You're not saving money by reusing fluid, flushing the fluid at a pad change will reduced problems like corrosion and seized caliper pistons.
I have never opened the bleeder on any of my ABS cars. Good practice though, I guess. First brake job I ever did I was 16 and about 25 years older now and have done it without opening the bleeder and never had any cars come back. I've had my daily beater for 15 years now and for 15 years done it the same way. Been the running the same MC and works without any flaws. And ABS works good.
ron hanish In the ASE certification manual it says to open the bleeder because you don’t want contaminated particles going back up to your master cylinder. Also you are getting this old fluid out of your system and introducing new fluid into your caliper. The fluid at the caliper is the worst and should be cycled out. Brake fluid should be cycled every 3 years as it absorbs water and water is not compressable. And do you want rust in your system? There are brake fluid strips that you can buy that will tell you the state of your fluid. I will stick with the experts. Good job Klowny!!!!
It it true that you only really need such a tool for cars where you have to turn the piston while pushing? I mean, in a 3rd gen Camaro for example, you could just put / leave the old brake pad on and use some kind of a clamp to push or a cheaper tool without all these different extensions.
Before you take the caliper off crack the bleeder and stick a flat screw driver between the inside pad and the rotor and pull back and it will push he piston back, it's so much easier.
When I do brake jobs I place a blue shop towel into master cylinder and then collapse caliper. I changed the shop towel as needed. I never had to bleed brakes after.
Don't forget some are left and right handed too! End up using a different pusher thread for the left and right hand callipers. Guess the manufacturers thought mechanics life was too easy and thought we needed to up our game some?!
I’m trying to use this tool kit to push the piston back in for my 2016 Polaris slingshot sl. Everything was working fine until I dismounted the caliper to replace the break pads. Once I changed the break pads the piston came out and is not letting me push it back in with the tool set. Idk what to do. I don’t got a lot of experience. I already tried using this set and releasing the break fluid thing too. The set fits good but I can’t turn the knob. Idk if it’s too hard or if something else is stoping it from turning
if one of the dual piston is slightly less compressed than the other one maybe by like 5-6mm, but was able to slide it in the bracket okay, will both piston make even contact once i pump my brakes during normal use
@@klowny1969 I saw you do that, and I’ll admit I’ve only done a couple, but I’ve never had to twist it like that. Good instruction though. If I ever run into that, I’ll know how to do it (Only did pads once at work on a utility cart, others were personal).
To be honest, this almost looks more cumbersome than just using an old brake pad and a large 'C' clamp. Mind you I haven't used a kit like this, but I assume there is to this kit than just depressing pistons?! Much appreciated video as I was considering getting a kit, but not sure I am in the market yet as a brake job hasn't really required anymore than I already use. Cheers!
Rear brakes pistons with an integrated emergency brake need to be threaded back in, not just compressed like the front. It's super tough to push and turn at the same time without these tools. Definitely possible but not fun.
I messed up big time the first time I used this.. popped a seal because I kept the tension on the tool too tight and brake fluid started leaking out. Had to put a whole new caliper.
@@klowny1969 no I'm saying before watching your video I spent about ten minutes trying to figure out how to place it on the compressor tool. Your explanation and visuals are what showed me how to get it on the tool.
I tried doing a Hyundai i10 rear OS caliper today, had the tool from Amazon (Nielsen) but given the state of the disc and pads that came off it I had my suspicions the caliper was knackered. I''d seen vids of folk doing this holding the caliper in their other hand, I opted to remove the carrier and rotor, then bolt the carrier back on, then the caliper with one of the caliper bolts and had to wrap a strap around it so I could put all my body weight through the tool and it still only moved a fraction(had the master cylinder cap loosened)...so, as suspected seems the caliper needs replaced. I also had one of those small multi headed Silverline box tools that goes on a 3/8" drive and tried to see if it needed to go counter clockwise but there's no luck there....(This is a sh*t system reminds me of stupid easy slip off shimano bottom bracket tools of the octalink/square drive era... need a ton of force to move them but the hard part is keeping the tool pressed into place and it not slipping out and wrecking everything!)
@@klowny1969 I had another go at it the next day, tried easing off the caliper bleed nipple and whether that helped it moved back in ok.... I've ordered the replacement caliper anyway to fit just in case it is sticking, so after test running it I could tell there was a tiny amount of heat in the wheel, the NSR piston screwed back in so easily in comparison and there was zero heat on that wheel. Also quickly jacked it up after the test run to see how easily the wheel spins and it seems ok...
thanks i knew i was doing something wrong with mine XD. i too never seen people open up the bleeder valve but then again i don't have much experience to speak. might look into that in the future see what it does or might end up trying it
@@klowny1969 ironically i was watching another video since im ready to do both disc and drums on my car i bought it's used and idk the maintenance history but brakes are squealing bad atm and it's something i want to do regardless for safe measures. that video was from A1 Auto and the guy also suggested we could open up the bleeder but he stated it's to allow the fluid to run out instead of back into the reservoir possibly im guessing much harder due to gravity and easier to push the piston back by doing so.
i try to change rear disk for astra 11 plate with electric brake and i try open clipper but i can open just top bolt.i cannot open bottom one as its different than top one there is long something like pipe joint with it.so can you plz help me out plz as soon as possible
Didnt know this tool existed. Always used a C clamp. Take the top off the brake reservoir and the fluid will go back in. Not sure if I would buy this as it just seems excessive to replace a piece of wood and a c clamp.
Could the brake lines for rear brakes be flushed by 1 person using this method? 1.Open the bleeder 2.Compress the piston 3.Close the bleeder 4.Press the brakes 5.Fill the brake fluid reservoir 6.Repeat until new clear brake fluid drops. HMMM?? KLOWNY what do you think brother? I think this method could be used to bleed the front brakes too. PS: I hate using vacuum pump method. And also i hate asking random neighbour to help me with bleeding the brakes.
The VW shop manual says: "If the brake pedal is operated with the caliper removed, the automatic adjustment mechanism will be destroyed." I think they are referring to the hand brake mechanism.
I've always wondered why anyone would every buy these things. Not saying I wouldn't mind owning one as I love tools but I grew up using c-clamps or mostly a pry bar and just compress them before I removed them. I never bought into the brake tools that much but I wouldn't mind a bleed tool so I could do without help. Edited to correct my spelling brake not break, getting old lol.
But you get two drive clamps in my set, one left hand screw and one right hand screw and you have to use the correct one on the correct side. Not sure why this set only has one direction clamp, but it's worth mentioning that some cars will need the two different clamps.
I assume lh is for passenger side and rh for driver side. I'm in UK so right hand drive car. I'm changing passenger side rear in a mk4 mondeo, using lh but it doesn't wind it back in, and if u turn anticlockwise isn't turn it very far before its to tight to spin. Does that mean I need a new caliper or I've used the wrong side tool? Also how do you remove tool as I cab get it back off the caliper
I compressed the caliper just fine, but I can't get the tool out of the caliper. I twisted clockwise and my caliper went I'm, but u can't twist counter clockwise. It's freaking stuck.
+Polished Beauty - Most front pistons you can just "push" back, and do not necessarily need a tool like this. Regarding the rear system - on most cars where the handbrake is a part of the system, you need to push and turn the piston at the same time. Compared to many other tools, a caliper piston tool is actually not so expensive - and you can buy kits that fit several car brands, so even if you sell your current car and buy another brand next time, you can still use the kit. It´s really a good investment and makes the whole process much easier - also for the front pistons :-)
You are twisting the piston clockwise to screw it back into the caliper, doing this tomorrow so all VW's must be the same. I would have thought it was the other way.
Better practice is to open the bleeder and ditch the old brake fluid. Do you ever flush brake fluid or do you consider that an unnecessary maintenance procedure? It is false economy to try to save a few ounces of the old brake fluid sitting in the caliper, which is the most contaminated part of the system.
Chris P I use a Baster or a nasal aspirator to suck out about 3/4 of reservoir before I start just in case any goes back up, this is old fluid gone anyway. If you are concerned about running low, put a bit of new fluid in. ALWAYS open the bleeder screws!! You want this old fluid out of system. Pedal is better when you freshen the system with new fluid. Most dealerships charge in the range of $110 to cycle brake fluid.
klowny1969 okay I got the same tool as you do and I can’t get both the pins to line up and have that metal piece without it getting stuck. Thank you I will try again today
@@klowny1969 You need to compress both back inside or else you can't fit the pads in. My tacoma has 2 pistons inside and 2 outside and it's a pain to get em in enough for the new pads
This tool is so simple to use. Cost in California is $60 and a 90 return. Returned it the next day since I got it at night. I used my old inner pad to press in the piston. As the piston is very deep in my 2000 chevy tahoe limited 5.7ltr OBS. Thank you for your video. 😁
Doing the rear brakes on a VW Golf today, I have that kit, this video was perfect for showing me how to use it 👍
Lol, yes, it was one of the very best instructional videos I've ever seen. 🤣
Thanks for this, it saved me some time and made me feel a little stupid at the same time. I knew that force plate had to go on there but for the life of me couldn't figure out how to get either the t-handle to come off or the other end. It was pretty funny to see how easy it was to just slide the t-handle one way and then the other when I had put so much effort into it. BUT, I'll know next time! I tried to go with the universal block adapter at first($10) but found it impossible to put enough pressure on it while turning the piston. At O'Reilly's Auto Parts you have to leave a $60.00 deposit for the tool set and it's well worth it! Anyway, I got it done and this video helped so thanks for that.
Yeah the force plate really played me. I also knew I had to use it but had no clue how to put it on
Check on eBay for these universal tools to keep in the garage, I paid £12 delivered ($15) for a 22pc set with left and right hand rewinders and plates that should fit any car
Hey thanks for the video. Got a lot of tools for my dad after he passed and now I’m learning it all. Thank you for explaining it
Glad I was able to help and sorry for your loss..don't forget to subscribe 😉
Thanks. Just used this tool on my rx7's 30yr old brake calipers that haven't been used in about 10 years. Took my He-Man strength cause they were seized, but I was able to get my new brake pads in and on the rotors. Saved about 150$ for reman calipers.
coming across this video as i got my brake caliber tool exackly like your's from harbor freight, i can now put my new brake pads on thank you so much for showing me this demostration how to use this tool. i subscribed and gave this video a thumbs up
Glad I was able to help you out!!
Never put pads on my daughter 2003 Mini Cooper before, Frt's went on the old "C" clamp way to compress the cylinders, but the backs use the screw in types, like your video showed. Luckily I watched the video before I attempted the backs, glad I did, then they went on fine. Thanks for putting this on RUclips, you saved me and probably a lot of other people from doing the back one's wrong. Didn't know the back one's screwed in. Never to old to learn something new. Thanks again. Phillip
awesome..im glad i helped u out
Love RUclips, it's my "go to" place when I start a project or "need to know" something about a job I'm not familiar with. It always come through. Thanks for being there for us "shade tree" mechanics. We truly appreciate that.
Only video I could find that actually showed how to use this tool and made it so I could understand. Thank you!
awesome thanks for watching
ditto, thanks.
i love it❤
You don't have to open your bleeder screw. Instead open the brake fluid reservoir under the hood of your car and put a towel around it, as the fluid will oozes out as push back the caliber's piston. Once you get your job completely done, make sure to fill up the braking fluid.
unebonnevie NO NO NO..DO NOT DO THAT!!! BRAKE FLUID EATS UP PAINT!!!SHOULD NEVER OPEN THE MASTER CYLINDER WHEN PUSHING IN THE PISTON!!!!!
you can use a vacuum pump to suck out some fluid if it has been topped off before you push the piston in
a vacuum pump works great bleeding too, but you can use it to suck out old power steering fluid or any fluid in a reservoir
It can be done without opening the bleeder. However, sometimes when you do not open the bleeder dirt gets pushed back into the system and has the potential to cause damage on ABS equipped vehicles.
Correct well executed
Lmao, wtf?? The bleeder screw is not a defect, ffs. It's there to be used, to make your own life easier! If you are unlucky enough to have a brake system without the capacity to bleed fluid from the caliper, yes, you'll have to play around with fluid at the master cylinder, but... WHY on God's green Earth would anybody actually RECOMMEND ignoring the colossal convenience of a freaking bleeder screw in favour of clowning around, pushing fluid back through the system??! Lmao... well I guess that's what we can expect from the Internet... any and all wacky ways of deliberately making your own life harder. 😂
Thanks for video!!! I couldn’t figure out that the bolt goes THROUGH the freaking hole of the plate 😅😅
The piston in the caliper should be able to be easily pushed back into the caliper. No need for breaking the bleeder. If it's taking a lot to push back into the caliper you might want to look into replacing.
cracking the bleeder open is a good idea for a host of other reasons..i think I listed them in the comments..dont forget to subscribe
Thank you so much. Instructions did not show us how to put the plate on. Great handy video.
yes, me too. I just found out how from beginning of this video. It was so simple, but I was lost when I first got the tool.
Thanks and I didn’t know about the brake bleeding trick. Nice!
You got it! Don't forget to subscribe
Thanks man, I was wondering how that tool was used. Thanks once again, this helps.
Thank you..dont forget to subscribe!
Thank you! I bought this set because i own 4 vehicles plus friends and such. I went to use it and no instructions! I figured someone here would show me how it is done. Cheers!
You don’t have to open the bleeder but it’s good to let some of that old fluid out rather than recycle it over and over, if it collects to much moisture I’ve heard it can cause the brakes to fail when very hot
yesir..dont forget to subscribe
Awesome info. Got the job done easy and right because of your help. Thanks guys!!
Thanks for watching
I have a 2008 Ford Taurus X SEL. The caliper on my L/R wheel screws in Clockwise. The caliper on my R/R wheel screws in CounterClockwise. There are other Caliper Piston Tool sets with a L/H screw and R/H screw included. Not just one screw, just to let you guys know.
the main thing i needed this for was for how to get the spreader on the tool....when i seen you slide it on the other end i felt like an idiot
good vid
Lol thanks for watching
dude that's what brought me here too... I looked at the two pieces and how it was supposed to be and I was like how the heck do I get this dang thing on here? Looked at it for like 5 mins then just youtubed it hahahahahahah sometimes we all need a little help...but got the 3/4 brakes today after that. just need 1 more for tomorrow
Thank you so very much for putting this video up 😀😀
Just bought a brake kit like the one you're using and replacing all 4 rotors and pads. It's so much easier to understand when you can watch and visualise rather than just reading a blurb.
Already subscribed 😀😀😀
Glad I was able to help you out! Thanks for subscribing
Idk why I didnt take the time to figure the tool out so simple, but thanks for the video helped a lot.
Benjamin smith you got it..thanks for watching..also dont forget to check out the rest of my channel and subscribe
I agree with Gray Anderson.
No need to open the bleeder valve. I also have just opened the cap. And I have used the old pads and a long screwdriver or a pry bar to push it back in.
If you have the $ for the tool then it looks like it would be a lot easier.
There are a few reasons that you should open the bleeder..especially on certain cars..dont forget to subscribe
klowny1969
The only time I have opened the bleeder valve was to push the caliper back in by hand because I didn’t have a pry bar.
Or to bleed the system after replacing the caliper.
I guess there are times it needs opening.
You did a great video. I am not putting it down. I have never used the tool and was interested in how one worked. After watching it. I thought looks like a cool tool.
It just seemed a little weird to me that if your opening the valve then why use the tool? It goes back real easy with just using your hands. Without opening it it’s a bit tougher and the tool would be much better then a pry bar so there is little chance in damaging the caliper. But again in all it’s a good video. ✌🏽
It's good practice to always open the bleeder and apply a tiny amount of anti-seize so it doesn't rust shut over time. But opening the brake fluid cap works too if you're in a rush.
Thanks. I’ve been debating on getting the kit as I’ve been using a big C-clamp to compress my pistons instead.
This is for the screw type pistons ..don't forget to subscribe
thanks for the video,helped a lot as I was scratching my head holding my c clamp.
Brian Zelazny lol thanks for watching
Great video, straight to the point! Thank you!
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
dont open bleeder;; open the master cylinder cap, the pressure will relieve and the brake cylinder reservoir will fill up or catch the fluid you press into it. less messy, and no lost fluid to fill, cheaper cost.
couple things..you should NEVER open the master cylinder reservoir when pushing fluid back in, because it can spill over and end up on ur car paint. .and brake fluid eats up paint..secondly, the reason you bleed as u push the piston in os because the dirtiest part of the fluid is in your caliper..that can end up in your abs solenoid and clog it..also the seals on your master cylinder piston are only designed to go one way..pushing the fluid back into ur reservoir can unseat the seals and then u have no brakes..thanks for watching
thanks, ive always done it that way, no problems. your way does make sense too.
It's better to open the bleeder because that is going to be contaminated fluid that you want to get rid of anyway. You're not saving money by reusing fluid, flushing the fluid at a pad change will reduced problems like corrosion and seized caliper pistons.
I have never opened the bleeder on any of my ABS cars. Good practice though, I guess. First brake job I ever did I was 16 and about 25 years older now and have done it without opening the bleeder and never had any cars come back. I've had my daily beater for 15 years now and for 15 years done it the same way. Been the running the same MC and works without any flaws. And ABS works good.
ron hanish
In the ASE certification manual it says to open the bleeder because you don’t want contaminated particles going back up to your master cylinder. Also you are getting this old fluid out of your system and introducing new fluid into your caliper. The fluid at the caliper is the worst and should be cycled out. Brake fluid should be cycled every 3 years as it absorbs water and water is not compressable. And do you want rust in your system? There are brake fluid strips that you can buy that will tell you the state of your fluid. I will stick with the experts. Good job Klowny!!!!
No need to crack open the bleeder valve, the brake fluid will just return to the master cylinder.
Not a good idea..don't forget to subscribe
It it true that you only really need such a tool for cars where you have to turn the piston while pushing? I mean, in a 3rd gen Camaro for example, you could just put / leave the old brake pad on and use some kind of a clamp to push or a cheaper tool without all these different extensions.
What part is that on the bleeder valve?? Looks more better than the rubber hose I use. Can you please let me know what part that is. Thanks.
The best video I've seen using this device! thanks.saludos from peru. GRACIAS UNA VEZ MÁS AMIGO
Thank u
Before you take the caliper off crack the bleeder and stick a flat screw driver between the inside pad and the rotor and pull back and it will push he piston back, it's so much easier.
Thanks for commenting and don't forget to subscribe
Rear pistons need to be turned and compressed at the same time, they're not the same as doing front pads.
Apparently I shouldn’t have used my DeWalt clamps 🗜 So what makes this tool better than the ratcheting one?
When I do brake jobs I place a blue shop towel into master cylinder and then collapse caliper. I changed the shop towel as needed. I never had to bleed brakes after.
Don't forget to subscribe
Don't forget some are left and right handed too! End up using a different pusher thread for the left and right hand callipers. Guess the manufacturers thought mechanics life was too easy and thought we needed to up our game some?!
Andrew Wilson lol
I’m trying to use this tool kit to push the piston back in for my 2016 Polaris slingshot sl. Everything was working fine until I dismounted the caliper to replace the break pads. Once I changed the break pads the piston came out and is not letting me push it back in with the tool set. Idk what to do. I don’t got a lot of experience. I already tried using this set and releasing the break fluid thing too. The set fits good but I can’t turn the knob. Idk if it’s too hard or if something else is stoping it from turning
it could be a frozen caliper..time to replace the caliper.
if one of the dual piston is slightly less compressed than the other one maybe by like 5-6mm, but was able to slide it in the bracket okay, will both piston make even contact once i pump my brakes during normal use
There is a chance it wont..one Piston might be frozen..
Thanks for the explanation!!!
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
Thank you.. Im changing one today but without the tools.. its a complete disaster.. Im going to buy it tomorrow haha
Awadz Hasmizan you can use pliers to turn it
yo, i was completely lost as to how that push plate fits into the tool itself . So simple.
Glad I was able to help..dont forget to subscribe
Any suggestions on a torn gasket
Very usefull info 👍👍🏾🍀👍🏾for my impala back breaks
Thanks for watching
I’ve never used one of those tools. I just used a big pair of Channellocks and squeezed it in. My friend uses his big pair of Knipex Cobras.
you have to twist the piston in as you push it
@@klowny1969 I saw you do that, and I’ll admit I’ve only done a couple, but I’ve never had to twist it like that. Good instruction though. If I ever run into that, I’ll know how to do it (Only did pads once at work on a utility cart, others were personal).
@@JakeNaughtFromStateFarm yep..its usually the rear brakes that are twist pistons..thanks for watching
To be honest, this almost looks more cumbersome than just using an old brake pad and a large 'C' clamp. Mind you I haven't used a kit like this, but I assume there is to this kit than just depressing pistons?! Much appreciated video as I was considering getting a kit, but not sure I am in the market yet as a brake job hasn't really required anymore than I already use. Cheers!
This also turns the piston as you depress it..don't forget to subscribe
Rear brakes pistons with an integrated emergency brake need to be threaded back in, not just compressed like the front. It's super tough to push and turn at the same time without these tools. Definitely possible but not fun.
Thx!!! I bought the tool never used it today I’m about too...
good luck..and thanks for watching and commenting..dont forget to subscribe
Very well explained. Thanks bro
Brandon Kinney thanks for watching and commenting
I messed up big time the first time I used this.. popped a seal because I kept the tension on the tool too tight and brake fluid started leaking out. Had to put a whole new caliper.
I spent 10-15 minutes trying to figure out what you did at the 37 second mark in the video by putting the plate through the compressor tool 😆.
Sorry about that
@@klowny1969 no I'm saying before watching your video I spent about ten minutes trying to figure out how to place it on the compressor tool. Your explanation and visuals are what showed me how to get it on the tool.
Saved my brain ty lol
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Great video!
Thank you
Thank you very much!
Thanks for watching Pat! You didn't work in UIT by any chance?
I tried doing a Hyundai i10 rear OS caliper today, had the tool from Amazon (Nielsen) but given the state of the disc and pads that came off it I had my suspicions the caliper was knackered. I''d seen vids of folk doing this holding the caliper in their other hand, I opted to remove the carrier and rotor, then bolt the carrier back on, then the caliper with one of the caliper bolts and had to wrap a strap around it so I could put all my body weight through the tool and it still only moved a fraction(had the master cylinder cap loosened)...so, as suspected seems the caliper needs replaced. I also had one of those small multi headed Silverline box tools that goes on a 3/8" drive and tried to see if it needed to go counter clockwise but there's no luck there....(This is a sh*t system reminds me of stupid easy slip off shimano bottom bracket tools of the octalink/square drive era... need a ton of force to move them but the hard part is keeping the tool pressed into place and it not slipping out and wrecking everything!)
Sounds like a frozen piston..don't forget to subscribe
@@klowny1969 I had another go at it the next day, tried easing off the caliper bleed nipple and whether that helped it moved back in ok.... I've ordered the replacement caliper anyway to fit just in case it is sticking, so after test running it I could tell there was a tiny amount of heat in the wheel, the NSR piston screwed back in so easily in comparison and there was zero heat on that wheel. Also quickly jacked it up after the test run to see how easily the wheel spins and it seems ok...
I used this and the part with notches slips off of the piston. It eventuantally did the job though.
Good information thanks well done
Thanks..don't forget to subscribe
some other video shows that you can just push the piston by hand. I rarely see any one use it when changing brakes.
Nice and easy video thanks for the help.
Thanks for watching..dont forget to subscribe..thanks :)
Thank you!
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
Thank you for the video man, cheers!
spencer pearson thanks for watching
thanks i knew i was doing something wrong with mine XD. i too never seen people open up the bleeder valve but then again i don't have much experience to speak. might look into that in the future see what it does or might end up trying it
It's the recommended way of doing it for multiple reasons..don't forget to subscribe
@@klowny1969 ironically i was watching another video since im ready to do both disc and drums on my car i bought it's used and idk the maintenance history but brakes are squealing bad atm and it's something i want to do regardless for safe measures. that video was from A1 Auto and the guy also suggested we could open up the bleeder but he stated it's to allow the fluid to run out instead of back into the reservoir possibly im guessing much harder due to gravity and easier to push the piston back by doing so.
Thanks for the video. Time to save myself a shitload of cash doing my own brakes.
Awesome! Dont forget to subscribe
spend that money on hookers and blow
i try to change rear disk for astra 11 plate with electric brake and i try open clipper but i can open just top bolt.i cannot open bottom one as its different than top one there is long something like pipe joint with it.so can you plz help me out plz as soon as possible
Thank you 🥰🙏🏿
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
Didnt know this tool existed. Always used a C clamp. Take the top off the brake reservoir and the fluid will go back in. Not sure if I would buy this as it just seems excessive to replace a piece of wood and a c clamp.
The caliper pistons are screw type..you. eed to turn them to push them in..cant do that with a c-clamp
Is that just a dust boot? I broke mine screwing in the piston.
Water can get in there and seize the piston..dont forget to subscribe
helpfully video thanks, solves the problem i was having
Thanks for watching and commenting
Could the brake lines for rear brakes be flushed by 1 person using this method? 1.Open the bleeder 2.Compress the piston 3.Close the bleeder 4.Press the brakes 5.Fill the brake fluid reservoir 6.Repeat until new clear brake fluid drops. HMMM?? KLOWNY what do you think brother? I think this method could be used to bleed the front brakes too. PS: I hate using vacuum pump method. And also i hate asking random neighbour to help me with bleeding the brakes.
That would probably work, if you do it correctly
The VW shop manual says: "If the brake pedal is operated with the caliper removed, the automatic adjustment mechanism will be destroyed." I think they are referring to the hand brake mechanism.
I've always wondered why anyone would every buy these things. Not saying I wouldn't mind owning one as I love tools but I grew up using c-clamps or mostly a pry bar and just compress them before I removed them. I never bought into the brake tools that much but I wouldn't mind a bleed tool so I could do without help. Edited to correct my spelling brake not break, getting old lol.
How do you 'screw' the piston back in with either the old pad or a pry bar, or do you just whack it back in without turning it?
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO. BUT I WAS SHOWED HOW TO USE NEEDLE NOISE PLIERS IT WORKS NO PROBLEM.
Whatever works for u..thanks for watching and dont forget to subscribe
But you get two drive clamps in my set, one left hand screw and one right hand screw and you have to use the correct one on the correct side. Not sure why this set only has one direction clamp, but it's worth mentioning that some cars will need the two different clamps.
I assume lh is for passenger side and rh for driver side. I'm in UK so right hand drive car.
I'm changing passenger side rear in a mk4 mondeo, using lh but it doesn't wind it back in, and if u turn anticlockwise isn't turn it very far before its to tight to spin.
Does that mean I need a new caliper or I've used the wrong side tool?
Also how do you remove tool as I cab get it back off the caliper
No cars will need both, the right hand tool is for compressing the piston for pad changes, the left hand tool is for doing fluid changes/flushes.
I rented a tool like this but my pistons don't have any holes and i can't get them to compress at all so I can put them back on with the new pads
No holes means that you need to compress only. One of the pads in the kit has no holes. Use that one.
Nice!
Thanks
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I understood, thank you so much.
Thank you
I compressed the caliper just fine, but I can't get the tool out of the caliper.
I twisted clockwise and my caliper went I'm, but u can't twist counter clockwise. It's freaking stuck.
Whack it with a hammer
@@klowny1969 I got it. Turned it clockwise with a spanner
Ty!
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Piston is twisting but it’s not going in what do I do
How do u use the plate w the 3/8s hole in the middle?
You don't, just put an extension on a 3/8th ratchet and turn
Drench the caliper with brake cleaner so you dont mess up the caliper next time, it wasnt seized it just needed to be cleaned up a bit.
Huh?
Why only rear breaks? What about Front ones?
The fronts do not have the twist type of piston, they can be just pushed in normally..don't forget to subscribe
Bwahahaha, 5 seconds in and I have an ahahaa moment, sometimes it's to easy to be an option!
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Great vid, thanks
so what if it’s extruded and the J plate doesn’t fit?
Use a pair of channel locks to turn it..don't forget to subscribe
Thanks 😎
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe and hit that bell
can you use this on the front break pads?
yeah
C-clamp
+Polished Beauty - Most front pistons you can just "push" back, and do not necessarily need a tool like this. Regarding the rear system - on most cars where the handbrake is a part of the system, you need to push and turn the piston at the same time. Compared to many other tools, a caliper piston tool is actually not so expensive - and you can buy kits that fit several car brands, so even if you sell your current car and buy another brand next time, you can still use the kit. It´s really a good investment and makes the whole process much easier - also for the front pistons :-)
No need to bleed the brake line.Just take the cap off the master cylinder.You'll save so much hassle
the proper way is to bleed it as you push the piston in..thanks for watching and dont forget to subscribe.
Thanks
Thank u
Thank you
Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe
A mechanic on another channel said it was easier/faster to compress the brake pads with a prybar.
You have to twist them in..not all caliper pistons are screw type
You are twisting the piston clockwise to screw it back into the caliper, doing this tomorrow so all VW's must be the same. I would have thought it was the other way.
MsCelicagt4 yes maam
Open master cylinder, not bleeder screw. usually you turn counter clockwise on all the cars I've done,
J King open master so everything spills out as u push the piston in? And eats up all ur paint? The proper way is to open bleeder screw
Let's be honest, only a complete muppet wouldn't keep an eye on the level in the reservoir when doing that 🙄 (and remove fluid as necessary)
Better practice is to open the bleeder and ditch the old brake fluid. Do you ever flush brake fluid or do you consider that an unnecessary maintenance procedure? It is false economy to try to save a few ounces of the old brake fluid sitting in the caliper, which is the most contaminated part of the system.
Chris P
I use a Baster or a nasal aspirator to suck out about 3/4 of reservoir before I start just in case any goes back up, this is old fluid gone anyway. If you are concerned about running low, put a bit of new fluid in. ALWAYS open the bleeder screws!! You want this old fluid out of system. Pedal is better when you freshen the system with new fluid. Most dealerships charge in the range of $110 to cycle brake fluid.
@@sirsweetness8332 just use a vacuum pump
What if the piston is to far out an the tool won’t fit?
Juan Sandoval of it's a screw piston, the tool will fit
klowny1969 okay I got the same tool as you do and I can’t get both the pins to line up and have that metal piece without it getting stuck. Thank you I will try again today
Juan Sandoval np good luck
I did it!
Thank you! Great video
Thanks for watching..dont forget to subscribe:)
Dust seals rotten! need to fix that!
I never knew this was a thing. I’ve always used a c clamp.
Yup..usually for back brakes..thanks for watching and dont forget to subscribe
What wrench size do you use for the caliper spreader
Mines stuck cant get it off.
I dont have a small hose. Can i just crack the bleed valve and catch excess fluid under with a low bucket?
Christian Alvarez yeah thats fine
rich piana steroids... LMAO, Great video btw.
DVLENG SS hahah..i was watching one of his videos at the time so i put it down in the description..lol thanks for watching
what if your car has 2 pistons per caliper
Double pistons don't need turning
@@klowny1969 You need to compress both back inside or else you can't fit the pads in. My tacoma has 2 pistons inside and 2 outside and it's a pain to get em in enough for the new pads
No need to open the bleeder screw or master cylinder cap, just turn the caliper screw in with the tool and it should go in.
It's a good idea to bleed as well
Didnt show us how to undo the special tool
Quinncy Woods undo the special tool? Not sure what you mean?
Reverse the process.