Threaded Inserts | What Are They & How to Install
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- Опубликовано: 24 сен 2022
- What are threaded inserts and how do you use them.
Products Used*
EZ Lock Threaded Inserts: amzn.to/34kEkGG
5 Minute Epoxy: amzn.to/2KxBS8S
Allen Wrench Set: amzn.to/3BHPKnZ
Milwaukee Drill Bits: amzn.to/2TssR2e
Milwaukee Driver Set: amzn.to/3mxx4OH
WEN Drill Press: amzn.to/3sudTuB
Forstner Bits: amzn.to/31OW7oy
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Incredibly helpful. Gave me a great sense of direction on how to go about a project I'm starting. Thank you!!!!!
Glad you found it helpful!
Good luck on your project!
Great as usual. Love your videos and your style. Keep them coming.
Thanks again Vince!
Thanks for the clear explanations!
Glad you found it helpful!
Hi. Thanks for an informative video. Besides my Forstner bits, I also have a "Brad point drill bit set". It does help drill perfectly located holes and they also come in smaller sizes.
Good to know! I’ll have to look into getting a set of those.
Well done. Thanks for tips!
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!
Good demo video~! I've used threaded inserts for years and love incorporating them into as many wood-joining situations where feasible. Great tips~!
Thanks Andrew! Glad you liked the video and find them useful too!
I'm INCLUDING them into my projects instead.
Have used them often on different projects. You're so correct that they are easy and can speed up your work considerably. Your tips on the brad point and Forstner bits is right on point.
Pun intended? It was great 😂 and thanks! It’s always nice to get confirmation from other woodworkers that use the same techniques.
I am a Nut factory supplier, The product in video is enough use for generally product, but for metal part, need more harder nut, like stainless steel or carbon steel . These two material works more better.
We are source Factory supplier of Thread insert Nut. If you need them for new item, we are willing to send you free sample. Them can also be install by molding injection. More a easy way
7:09 - remember WEN drill press! Thanks for the video.
Very helpful!!!
Glad you found it helpful! 😀
In a hardwood, I like to use a forstner bit to create a slight recess for the head of the threaded insert so it sits flush with top of the surface...maybe a millimeter or so before drilling down for the insert. For soft wood, I'll usually just tighten down on the insert so it creates its own recess. For drill sizes, I'll usually stick with the recommended hole size if I'm drilling into hard wood, and 1/64 under for soft wood before applying the epoxy.
Those are great tips! I’ll definitely be integrating those.
Hi from the One Handed Maker.
Great video on the insert tutorial..
I have subscribed and will be checking out more of your furniture builds.
Regards
James
Thanks James! Glad to have you around!
Josh
Northwest Craftsman
Thanks for this. We were about to use plastic anchors but I think this is much simpler. Sidenote: We know nothing about woodworking lol
Hey! I was there not 3 years ago 😂 and still learning a ton!
Glad I could help!
Great educational video! Question, I want to connect 3 round dowels that will be attached to cookie tins to create 3 tir trays. Which connectors should I use. Thank you!
Oh fun! A couple of thoughts. If the dowels is large enough to support the tin, then put a hole that can fit a fastener in the center of the cookie tin. In the bottom dowel, put a threaded insert and in the top embed the mating fastener. In the end you should be able to thread the top dowel onto the bottom dowels through the cookie tin.
@NorthwestCraftsman Hi! Thanks for the great response! The dowel is 3/4 inch round. I have enough to practice on. I will follow your recommendations!
Would you say these are stronger or those pronged tee nuts are stronger? Was thinking of using for attaching some wheeled castors to a wood base
Great question! My personal bias would be towards threaded inserts because they’re attached to your workpiece where T-Nuts are usually just on the surface. That being said I don’t have any data to point me one way or the other.
All very good but you must make sure your joints are self locating by design or have one or more dowels as a locator. They do this on engine parts so why not on wood. Things you did not discuss, cross bolts and T nuts
Great feedback Steve!
You are correct on the locating nature of dowels or dominos and I didn’t mention that, thanks for the addition.
And great catch! T-nuts can be a great addition in certain locations. I’m not a huge fan of them because they “feel” less secure to me than threaded inserts but they are certainly another option.
Regarding cross bolts. I had never seen one of those before until I googled them. Very cool mechanism.
Great additions all around Steve, thanks for the comment.
Josh
Northwest Craftsman
I am attaching a long 3 foot finial bed post to a frame. Both are round. How would find dead center on the round post and since I cannot use a drill press how would you get the the drill to go straight into the finial? Thks for any advice
Great question, are you looking for the center of the end of the round beam (circular face) or for the center of the face that wraps around the beam (cylindrical face)? If you have photos to email, that may be easier.
for the Ooops:Glue and drive a dowel in and then drill again.. Insert: Countersink for the head for a flush fit.
Inserting: Fix a Bolt with a double nut lock, cut the head off and run it in with your drill.
Put a little wax on the threads and drive it home. Should not need epoxy, but, was a good idea for the larger hole.
Great feedback all around!
Hey buddy. Great video. I’m in the process of building a live edge headboard out of ash and I was planing on using threaded inserts to attach the French cleat to the slab and hang it on the wall. You mentioned that you wouldn’t use threaded inserts in a vertical application. I didn’t want to glue the cleat to the back because I was concerned slab expansion/contraction may cause damage when moisture levels change. What would you recommend in this application? The slab is 9’W x +/- 20”H x 2”D. I’d really appreciate your insight and found your video excellent. I hope you can give me your thoughts on this. Thanks either way!
Sounds like a really fun project! I'll be the first to admit that I'm no expert but I do appreciate the compliment. Here are some thoughts.
I don't love the idea of putting the bolts in shear (not for the bolt but for the insert) as the only line of support but if on your cleat you have a series of them, it passes my gut check. Even better would be to run your router on the back of the slab to allow for an inset, that way the cleat is taking the load and the bolts are only holding the cleat to the slab. Lots of ways to attack that one. If you want, shoot me an email (in the about tab of my page), and we can bounce ideas with photos.
Hey buddy! So sorry for my delayed response. I don’t really comment often and expected RUclips to send me an alert when you replayed. It didn’t. Live and learn …
Thanks sooo much for your advice. I actually did one of the things you mentioned, I put 1 threaded insert 1’ apart into a 7’ cleat with the epoxy in the slab and bolted the other half to the wall at ever stud I hit. It seems super sturdy right now but time will tell if it’s not a good solution. I’ll update you if any issue arises. If it does, I’ll defiantly put a ledge into the slab. I should have thought about such a simple solution. Again, live and learn. Thanks again for your suggestions and help. Great page!
Edit: fyi, it turned out beautifully. Nightstands may be next. 😊
No worries at all! RUclips is odd like that sometimes. Glad it turned out well! If you’re up for it, I’d love to see a photo is it on Instagram?
@@NorthwestCraftsman Sure thing. I'll try to take some pics today or tomorrow and hit you up :)
newbie question, how strong is it? lets say im using a M10 size threaded insert
Not a newbie question at all! That’s a great one. I’ve switched to using Rampa inserts and below is a link to their product sheets. The pullout strength will vary based on what they’re threaded into.
Product Specs
www.rampa.com/na/en/Products/Technical-Documents/Product-data-sheets-wood/
Epoxy is a little difficult for me to get my hands on, would wood glue be an acceptable substitute?
It might work but it won’t bond to the threaded insert very well. Honestly, the adhesive is overkill and not needed. If you really want something on there, use some super glue. Just know you’ll need to put it in quickly or the glue will set before it’s all the way in.
I have discovered that some threaded inserts have the same external thread pitch as a lag bolt which can be modified to make a tap.. It's worth checking. Between you, me, and the lamp post, I don't know why taps for all threaded inserts aren't manufactured.
Fascinating! I’ll have to look for those, that’d be a great idea.
Are washers essential?
Depends on what you're going for, it make me feel better about the compression on the wood. However, if you can get a nominal clearance for your bolt, the head may have enough holding power. Not something I want to play with though.
TAke a breath, WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why are threaded inserts always so short? Most seem to be no more than 3/4" long. I want to use them to hang something heavy from a wood ceiling beam (2"x8"?). I want the insert to be long so there's lots of grip.
That’s a great question and one that I can actually use my engineering background to answer 😂 on threaded fittings (Nuts, inserts like this, etc) only the first 2-3 threads hold the majority of the load. So long threads don’t actually help anymore and that’s why nuts are as short as they are. These threaded inserts are longer so that when they’re epoxied into the wood, they have more grab in the wood side. What kind of pull out strength do you need on your project?
@@NorthwestCraftsman It's for hanging gymnastic rings and other exercise equipment so the load is unpredictable and dynamic requiring far more strength.
But then I realized that headless screws with a wood thread for wood and a machine tread for the part sticking out, would be far stronger. Maybe epoxy would also help strengthen them as well. They don't sit flush but they would have so much more threads holding the load. Your mention of the first 2-3 threads holding the majority of the load really got me thinking. Would it be the same with a headless screw? I need to attach a long bar somehow so I figured something like plate steel or 1" plywood bolted to the headless screws might work that would be affixed to multiple ceiling joists at at least 4 points for each end to spread the load. It's a rental so I can't tear away the ceiling easily (I could if I was skilled at drywall though!) to inspect the quality of the wood but as there's another floor above me and it's a living room water damage is highly unlikely. I'll try some tiny screws to "feel" the density of the wood of course on top of the drywall. A lot of people install rings very poorly and they post their proud videos on YT leading others down a very ill thought out path. With this design it will allow me to unbolt the plates from the ceiling anytime I want without wearing the wood threads.
At a high level, I’d be very cautious installing anything with a dynamic load in a residential setting since most floors and ceiling by joists aren’t designed to handle those. I don’t mean to throw cold water on this but I couldn’t recommend it.
If you’re still set on it, I agree that it’d be a good idea to span as many joists as you can to spread the load and to your question on threads, that holds for all threaded fixtures.
It doesn’t seem much but the flat head of insert should fit flush to wood an not the few thousandths obove
You’re totally right. Normally I actually try to inset it slightly to prevent interference. If that’s not what I showed here, it was unintentional
Hi
Thanks for nice video, can I ask you how strongly it sits, can it be used on shelves ? With some load
Thanks
Hey! Thanks for your kind words, I’m glad you enjoyed it.
It can definitely be used on shelves but it depends how you configure it. I wouldn’t want to do a floating shelf style attachment where the threaded inserts are only in the back. If you have some along the edges and back, it should work great.
In more technical terms these work well in tension and shear but I wouldn’t want to load them in torsion.
Again, it all depends heavily on what kind of shelf your building and what it’s holding.
Epoxy is only for those of us who are paranoid. If you’re not woodworking a spaceship, going without it should be fine too.
Instead go for a spring lock ring to prevent loosening bc of seasonal thermal contraction. HTH
I'm moving towards you on this one. I've switched over to super glue to help ease installation and still provide a small amount of lock. Tried some Rampa threaded inserts and man those things are no joke.