2005-2011 Audi 3.2L V6 Timing chain and guide replacement | Torque specs and tighten sequence
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2022
- This is an indepth look at what's involved in replacing the timing chain assembly on an audi 3.2l FSI engine. I have included torque specs as well as sequences in the video. I also show some tricks the audi calls for to make installing the timing cover that much easier.
Torque specifications ( I give exact torque values in the video that show bolt differences)
Camshafts guide frame (cam girdle) to cylinder head
8 Nm + 90 degrees (1/4 turn)
Replace bolts
Upper timing chain tensioner to cylinder head
9 Nm
Camshaft adjuster to camshaft
40 Nm then 80 Nm + 90 degrees (1/4 turn)
Replace bolts
Upper timing chain cover to cylinder head
5 Nm + 90 degrees (1/4 turn)
Replace bolts
Sealing plug to cylinder block
14 Nm
Replace gasket
Vacuum pump to cylinder head
9 Nm
Cylinder head cover (valve cover) to cylinder head
9 Nm
Replace bolts if damaged
Spark plugs
30 Nm
Throttle body to upper intake manifold
5 Nm
Oil drain plug to oil pan
30 Nm
Oil filter cover
25 Nm
Sway bar nuts
25 Nm
Sway bar links bolts
40 Nm + 90 degrees (1/4 turn)
Replace bolts and nuts.
Part numbers and tools
Black Sealant D176501A1
Guide rail 079109510M
Lower guide rail 059109469F
Center guide rail 059109469E
PTO tensioner 06E109507D
Left chain tensioner 06E109217H
Right Chain tensioner 06E109218AQ
Lower chain tensioner 06E109467H
Cam adjuster bolts, 4 total, N 910 428 02
Timing chain tensioner bolts, total 12, N 101 243 06
Rear main seal 079103051F
Audi 3.2 Camshaft Locking Timing kit www.ecstuning.com/b-baum-tool...
T40069 crank locking pin
T40070 Camshaft holding tool
T40071 Times two tensioner pins
T10172 cam phaser holding tool 
Авто/Мото
Will, you're awesome, brother! Thanks for the phone call and the amazing help with this.
I'll let you know when done!
Many blessings,
Pav-
Pav, That's a nice bunch of cars you have there. lol Anyway, I hope I was able to take some of the confusion away and cant wait to here it was successful. I will take your advice about mentioning to ask ppl for Super Thanks donation if it helps so I can get some big expensive Coffee. lol
Great video! Very informative.
Thanks for watching.
Great video. Thanks for making and sharing it with others. I'm about to drop a 3.2 out of a 07' A4. I have a lift. Assuming the best approach is dropping the engine trans together? Thanks
Yes, Right from the bottom is the easiest. Can leave most of the exhaust in place until it is down. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Outstanding demonstration. I have a 2008 A6 which might need timing chain/tensioner work so I wanted to see a demo before discussing options with the shop (independent) whether to go ahead or not. Only qstn is you didn't mention sensors or solenoids in the mechanism. I presume you were beyond those by the time you got to the start of your demo? Thanks very much for this outstanding video
Well the sensors and oil control solenoids are located on top of the cylinder head and sides. They are very easy to get too. I did not have an issue with them. The chain was being replaced because of a noise and oil leak. Once I opened it up I saw how brittle the guides were. Thanks for the comment and kind words.
Just to update you my technician at the Little Garage (in Huntington NY) found that the fault codes moved to the other bank with the swap of the sensors and solenoid. He replaced the sensors and one solenoid. Additionally he replaced a bad injector for cylinder #6. Car is now running well again and, based on the instrument panel, seems to have gained on gas mileage.
Thank you, I mean the upper tensioner. I see that some cars have tensioners complete with a gasket, while in the Audi Q5 the upper tensioner is without a gasket (at least I haven't been able to find any information). Regards
Hello there sir. Great video , i love it. How many chain sectors are from the ex adjuster to in adjuster on both sides of the engine?
Hello, and Thank you so much for watching. Are you talking about the amount of links between the Intake and Exhaust sprockets similar to the way you check timing on the 4 cylinder motors? If so, unfortunately there are no timing marks on the sprockets and no keyway that locks them to the cam. They are a taper fit and because of this you must use the camshaft locking tool along with the crankshaft locking tool to set the timing exactly where needed. Also, make sure you follow the steps exactly to counter hold the sprockets properly.
@@willpoweredgarage969 Thank you sir! I understand perfect what you mean.
Nice. Have question about tightening the timing cam adjuster/phasers. Do you have to do passenger side head first then drivers side, or does it matter? Thanks.
Hello, thanks for watching. No, it does not matter, the only important part is to make sure you counter hold in the right direction.
@@willpoweredgarage969 ok thanks. Unfortunately we found the left bank upper tensioner not functioning correctly. Ordering that, hope to have the car back up and running next week.
Very informative I have an issue with timing. I just purchased the 2009 Audi q5 and has several codes, P0019, P0018 and P0304, P0306 . It seems all the problems is with Bank 2. It looks like a timing chain upper chain assembly was done . Any feedback would be appreciated.
Okay, so p0019 and p0018 refer to sensor A and sensor B ,respectively. Since you also have missfire codes in the same bank, I would believe it's in the timing. Now, there are a few things i would do. Since there are no timing marks, the only way to really sorta gauge if the timing is off is to get the crank at tdc and lock it with the pin on the side of the block. Then, remove the valve cover and look to make sure the flats on the cam shafts are both facing up and level to each other. If even one is not (would not be able to install the lock tool without turning the cam), then the timing is not set right. The other is that the cam phaser could be getting stock with debris. Audi recommends cleaning it and making sure it moves freely. I have never seen this as an issue, though, and maintaining the timing is off. Even though it was replaced, make sure the guides all look okay. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching
So I just bought a 2008 A6 with a 3.2 and I believe I will need to do the timing on it. In your opinion would it be a good idea to change out the cam adjuster/phasers or not necessary? Or is there a way to test them?
I think that if there is no reason to change them unless you have a car that was not maintained well, have faults for them, or can get them affordably. They are very expensive.
How did you get the rear main seal installed. I have been struggling with that and I have bought the tool but still unable to get the new seal over the crankshaft. Any guidance would be appreciated.
Its hard to describe, but as long as you have the correct taper tool just make sure the tool is well oiled and that the lip of the seal is facing the engine and does not get folded back. Its also worth mentioning that the seal is a big tight to get over the crank seal but don't worry , the seal does stretch and will relax back to size.
Hi, amazing video! - question - I have the same engine, it's having the rattle noise for about month now when I do cold start, can be heard for about 1-3secs, can I keep driving for next 10-20 days before it goes to workshop for chain kit replacement? ..
Hard to say for sure without actually hearing it, But I can tell you I drove mine this way for a very long time before I actually did the repair. I would be cautious, and take not if it gets worse or the engine light comes on. Thanks for watching!!! Cheers!
@@willpoweredgarage969 I actually recorded the sound a while ago: ruclips.net/video/Rfw548Bs3l8/видео.html - what you think?....
Hello Will and Everybody, I'm in the middle of this job on my 2006 A6 3.2L, and this video has been a great help! I haven't yet received my new parts, and I have a question about the oil pump/baIancer tensioner from the video. At about 8:00, the old tensioner you took out appears to be a hydraulic tensioner, which looks the same as my old one. At about 28:00 it appears that the new tensioner does not have a hydraulic piston? Did Audi make a design change in the oil pump/balancer tensioner? As I say I haven't received my new parts yet, but I want to make sure I'll be using the right one.
Also, will you please post the part number of the VW/Audi sealant you recommend? Thanks.
Hello Steve, Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. So the quick answer is yes. Audi did change the hydraulic damped one with a spring controlled one. There is no oil feed to it anyway so no advantage to it being so. At the time I was still able to get either but I went with the updated unit and it has been fine since.
As for the sealant, it is audi/VW specific though it is made by loctite brand I have not seen it sold by them. I've always had to get it from either the dealer or places like ECS or FCP . The loctite number is 5970 and the factory part number is D176501A1. Hope this helps, and good luck. Most of all Take your time doing it!
Lp0
Lp😊
Thanks, I'm trying to find out if there are gaskets in the Audiq5 3.2 from 2010, because according to all catalog data there is no information whether they are or not. I bought an INA tensioner and it has no seal. This car doesn't seem to have them. Regards
The gasket is a metal one that goes behind the upper tensioners only. The lower one does not have one, just to clarify. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the tutorial
I have 2006 Audi A6 3.2FSI. Gives me ALL THE TIME. I replaced 4x New Camshaft sensors. And nothing helps. Same code. It could start for 1-2seconds and than dies. And never start again
I suspect camshaft itself is stuck or not rotate, !! ?..
Based on your experience :
What it could happened for it??
And what repair could helps ??
I appreciate all your help. Thanks
well for one I would definitely make sure the camshaft is spinning. Second, I would check to make sure the timing is correct. Seams to me the timing might be off.
Hi. Could you tell me why you didn't replace the seals under the upper tensioners (isn't it necessary?)
I did replace them. I talk about the surface needing to be clean and dry of oil and dirt. Unfortunately, I did not show me installing it more than just putting the bolts in and torque.
Great video. 2 questions. 1. What's the typical mileage for replacement? I know it depends on proper maintenance. 2. Why not pull the pins on the tensioners before the first 40nm torque? Seems to me it would take the the slack out and take some of the guess work out of these over complicated engines. (came to me when your assistant botched the hold on the left intake, first take?, torque,lol).
And others might want to replace the torque converter while your at it unless its been done. Known problem.
Hello, Thanks for watching and the comments. It really does come down to maintenance. But Usually around 130K there starts to develop some chain noise at start up. As for the tensioner release it would not matter. The reason is the crank and cams are locked, the chain is just connecting the two. You want to remove the slack before the tensioner is release so that slack is not there at all. Then the tensioner can make up the last little bit. Yes, many people have pointed out the " botched" hold. lol Once of those instances, do as I say not as I do. lol
Great video! I'm quite certain I have this issue but I don't have any hard engine codes yet (I caught it early). Is it always the upper timing chain assembly or could the lower timming tensioners also have this issue? I have VCDS but I'm unsure how I would verify this as the timing is fine 5 seconds after start. I just don't want to replace both upper chain assemblies to find I actually needed to pull the whole engine... Thanks!
Well, Its usually just the upper tensioners guides that become brittle and fall apart. When I removed the rear timing cover I saw the lower chain guides were also broken and very brittle. Its just a lotttt more work to get to the lower set.
hey man I see youre kinda active still i really need to know how to get the rear main seal back on, cause the tool is a little too small i dont know if you ran into this same problem but if you have any answers to help me get my seal back would be greatly apreciated
What tool are you using? Its really just a plastic sleeve that fits over the crankshaft to slide the seal on. I have in a pinch used a plastic food container ( like you get from a Chinese restaurant full of soup) its tapered in shape and you can cut it to the size you need. BE careful with the seal, it is very fragile and you don't want to kink it. It is ok to stretch it out with the tool. It will conform back to the original shape though.
@@willpoweredgarage969 I literally tried everything under the moon and ruined two seals and I finally started calling around to see if people would do it for me and Audi offered $60 so imma just go that route to not mess another one up. Thank you so much tho cause you’ve been a huge help everywhere else.
Hi Will I bought a 2007 A4 3.2 with bad tensioners I replaced them on the vehicle and I keep getting code P0341-P0346-P0391-P0366 I've tried 3 times and notice the cam adjusters doesn't move with the holding tool please advice
Ok, So first off are you using the crankshaft locking tool as well as the camshaft locking tools? They are both very important and are absolutely needed to set the correct timing. Are you holding the cam adjusters the correct direction when tightening them? The only other thing I can think of is did you mix up the ex and intake phasers?
Is there any alignment of the sprockets on main drive chain? I dont see any marking on sprockets and you didnt seem to align anything, just put chain right on
There are absolutely no timing marks on this system. Everything is timed by locking the crank with a special tool and locking the cams with another special tool. Once they are locked in, the chain is applied, and the sprockets are locked down on the taper of the camshafts.
@@willpoweredgarage969at 11:45 the upper sprockets seem free to turn (theyre not locked in in any way). The crank is locked though. So my question is do those upper sprockets at 11:45 need to be lined up in any way when installing that main drive chain, I didnt see you line anything up on them
Is the line up mark on the balance shaft.
The balance shaft does not have any marks on the gear. As long as the crank locking tool is installed, and the balance shaft is locked in with the drill bit as I show or the special tool it will be in time. Unfortunately there are no traditional timing marks on this engine. Hope this helps.
Can you pull the engine without a lift and without removing the transmission? If so, do you know of any videos that help with that?
You might be able to do the job by removing the transmission and then replacing the chains with the engine in the car still. But its way easier with the engine out and able to get to everything.
@@willpoweredgarage969 I recently finished a timing job on my B8 A4 wih the 2.0TFSI. It was my first engine pull and worked out surprisingly well. Was able to pull the 2.0 without putting the car in service position. Tight but doable. I want to do chains now on my 2009 Q5 with this 3.2 FSI Engine. Is getting it out any more challenging than the 2.0? Can you pull it without taking off the front bumper? Lots of videos out there about servicing this engine once it’s out but not much on actually pulling it as easily as possible. Any thoughts?
hi, how did you get the rear main crankshaft seal on ? i have been having the worst luck trying to get it on.
There's a special tool for it and the piece the flex/flywheel bolts up to has to be pried off first
@@josephlabosco3063 yes the T10122C but i have purchase two of them sent the first one back be the updated t10122c/2A is not sized correctly for my crankshaft. MY second one that I have now has the same issue. I wasn't sure if you knew of another way other than sending to a dealer.
So the tool is nothing more than a guide to get it over the harsh edge of the crankshaft. I think in one of my other videos (2.0 TFSI maybe?) I showed that i like to use the bottom of a chinese food container.
They are tapered , so I just cut it in the area that fits over the crankshaft. The container has a radius on the bottom and the seal with slide over it and over the crank. Then carefully put the container off. The seal is made of teflon and will stretch a bit but don't worry it will relax back to size and make a perfect seal. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching.
Yes, that's correct. There is a spacer that is on the crank. Might look like part of it at first glance, but Joseph is right, it needs to come off before you install the seal.
@@willpoweredgarage969 I had used a taco bell cup that worked great with a 3.0 supercharged, worked great!! lol but this 3.2 is a head scratcher for me. I have not noticed a spacer on the crank, I will give it another look. Thank you!!!
Thank you very much.❤it
Thanks for watching. I hope it helped.
What is the torque for the 3 torque converter bolts?
60 Nm + 90 deg
Excelente
Thanks for watching
Hi there! Great video, thank you for it! I have a problem with my chain tension even after doing everything as SAID in the video and in the manuals, i'm standing in front of my engine while I'm writing this ^^. When I turn the crankshaft to check timing, there are no blockages and the flats face upwards after two full turns at the crankshaft BUT the tension of the upper chains fluctuate, for example the chains get looser between the camshaft adjusters and then tightens up, the same on other tension points. I tried everything but can't figure it out, could you or someone please tell me what I am doing wrong. Am I not tensing up enough the chain before the first turn of the bolts at 40nm ( I do it toward the chain tensioners) ? Is the problem in the chains? Thank you!
Ok, Not sure If I understand you exactly, but if I think what you are saying is you are rotating the engine by hand? And that when you do to see its timed right the chains are getting slacked, but then tighten up an everything is timed? If so, what Is happening is the hydraulic tensioner is only under spring tension when the engine is not running and has no oil pressure to apply the force to the piston on the tensioner. So when you rotate it the valve springs are forcing either the intake or exhaust cam to jump ahead of the other or lag behind. This is making the chain appear slack. As long as you set the cam phasers and held them in the right direction when tightening the bolt all should be fine. Keep in mind, it will make noise until the oil has pressurized the top end. Always a good idea to remove the coils and crank it a bit to get the oil pressure up before the first start. Let me know if this helps and answers your question!
@@willpoweredgarage969 @WillPowered Garage Dear, thank you very much for your quick reply! I think you understood me correctly, sorry my English though :). I indeed turn the crankshaft by hand and the chains do make a clicking noise depending on the camshaft position and I see the chains "jumping"(not jumping a tooth, just clicking) and the tensioner pistons either go in or out. I think your absolutely right about the valve springs being the reason and that the pistons are pushed by the oil in a RUNNING engine. I'm so mad at myself, I used up 12 bolts doing this over again thinking I did something wrong. Ok now that I understand where the "problem" comes from, could you please tell me how hard should I pull on the chain with the camshaft adjuster holding tool before thightening up the bolts to 40nm? Could you also tell me what you mean by removing the coils? :) Thank you so much, I'm so relieved and grateful!
@@livingarmor3503 Did you get it right? Remove the coils to prevent engine from running.
@@sugerhitman1295 I didn't get the coil part I must admit but, after adjusting the timing correctly, after tightening the crankshaft adjuster bolts (*4) and mounting the rest, before igniting the engine I cranked it by hand somewhat 10 times and this did indeed tense up the chain tensioners a bit (less clicking). Once ignited with the key, it made the clicking noise for few seconds and stopped, the engine ran smoothly afterwards. Don't hesitate if you have any questions, I'll try to answer with my very humble experience.
@@livingarmor3503 Yeah...I have a 2011 TT with this engine...I got a timing code and another code that according to what I've been reading has something to do with a bad crank seal causing a vacuum leak or bad timing chain.
Thanks for the helping video! Its amazing. English is my 3rd language and didn’t get the proper name of the software of audi and wollsvagen the pro one can you please spell the software name in comment please, thabks for vida keep it up Good job ❤️
Hello, thanks so much for watching!! I really appreciate it!! The software is only available to dealership technicians. It's called Elsapro. The only closest thing to it is buying a dealership manual in paper, though I don't know if that is actually a thing anymore. 🤔
Hi guys,
I have replaced the upper timing chain tensioners on both banks and now the group 93 shows the next measurements:
Phase position Intake Bank 1: -20.6
Phase position Intake Bank 2: -18.4
Phase position Exhaust Bank 1: -20.6
Phase position Exhaust Bank 2: -21,4
I used the locking tools for camshafts and the locking bolt for cranckshaft.
I followed the ALL DATA specifications.
What you guys think happened?
I removed everything out again and started from the beginning,but I get the same measurements
I did a compression test to see if something happened with the valves and I've got between 11.5-12.5 bar.
The car starts and runs fine for about 20 seconds and then starts to rattle bad.
Any thoughts?
Thank you!
So, My first thought is did you counter hold the phasers the correct direction. This will put it very far out of time. I would assume would run ok until the car is in closed loop and then is controlling the cam timing to a point it can not advance/retard it. Let me know how you make out. And thanks for watching.
@WillPowered Garage Yes,I counter hold the phasers the correct direction.
I watched your video plus All Data specifications.
Maybe I have to put more tension on the counter hold tool?
Hello . I am having the same problem with my 3.2 fsi after changing the upper tensioner, block 93 gives me negative values on all 4 phasers, before the change i checked the values were perfect. Did you figured it out , what is causing this? I am goona be very gratefull for a little help! By the way great video guys , it helps a lot.
@Johan Vasilev I haven't figured it out yet.
What measurements you get?
Intake bank 1: -14.25
Intake bank 2: -9.36
Exhaust bank 1: -16.87
Exhaust bank 2: -9.36
I think either didnt put the chain good or the new tensioner needs to be reset, i watch some guy in another video doing that before install it.
Hi There, thanks for the video, I'm doing an audi q7 4.2fsi v8, I forgot to mark the cam sprocket or vvt sprocket(adjuster), but you said it doesn't matter which way it's go, are you 100% sure lol, anyway did your engine start and goes well after that, sorry to ask but I one to make sure before I put this on, thank you.
Ok, So yes and no. Yes it does not matter because there are no keyway or pins to lock it in. That rear bolt is what holds the cam phaser to the cam. It does however matter that you make sure the intake phaser is on the intake cam and same for the Exhaust phaser and cam. You also must use the cam locking tool and crank locking tool so that everything is perfectly timed. The other important thing is to make sure you counter hold the cam phaser in the right directions. The intake and exhaust need to be held in different directions as you tighten the rear bolt. I even had to read this a few times and I even watched a few youtube videos. lol Let me know if you have more questions.
Thanks for that, yes I will make sure that intake phaser goes to intake also the exhaust, and I've got the proper locking tools to tight them. Did you have any issued after running this engine? Thank you.
Brilliant to put the timing chain in the back of the motor. I junked mine with 140k miles cuz it failed. I'll take a timing belt all day
Only one better is Ford putting the water pump inside the timing cover, timing chain driven. That way when the seal goes bad it fills the crankcase with water to make a milkshake.
Ill never understand the redundancy of putting the timing components on the rear of the engine. My only idea is the upcharge on the maintenance.
I have to agree. Its such a pain in the butt. The claim is that it should last the lifetime of the engine, until it does not. I've had to do so many VR6 engines and there are the same way. Thanks for watching.
Where are you located at ?
🇺🇸
Next time turn the music WAYYYYYYY down! Other than that GREAT video so far. My 3.2 is ready tobthrow in the towel at 230K. Wish I saw this sooner.
Yeah, i know. Ive learned alot and i am still learning the edit process. I do really appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching.
I hope you realized that your helper held the slack in the incorrect direction, on the driver side head, BEFORE you reassembled everything. Otherwise, a very helpful video.
Hopefully, it doesn't set timing codes for Bank 2. If it does, at least we know why.
We did it twice for filming. I was kind of hoping no one noticed the filming and more listened to my explanation. Haha, good catch. It's back together and runs great. Better than ever. I wish I did this when I was the owner.
Bros, pull the grenade pin first, then begin the phaser torque dance, that audi manual is convoluted and i have to read it over a few times to figure out what they were getting at. Great video overall!
@@willpoweredgarage969 I was confused right there and I had to watch that section a few times. Good job overall and I am even more determined to do it myself.
@@tuneslubesandsmog6709 Do you know of another video?
I rebuilt a 3.2L V6 CALB and I’m stuck with all four cam VVT actuators.
I need clear directions. Can you, @willpoweredgarage969 or anyone help?
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Please, don't use music for the entirety of the video.
Yes, Thank you. You are not the first to mention it. I have been thinking of re-editing this video to remove it. Thanks for watching and commenting though!
Now do a video on installing that rear main seal because there’s literally no good videos on it and it seems like EVERYONE is having issues with it.
Its actually pretty straightforward. Just make sure its installed the right direction and if it did not come with a protective plastic sleeve for the crankshaft make one. I used a take out container and cut it down. Had nice round bottom to protect the seal as the cover is reinstalled. The rear cover itself is actually the hardest part. Keeping the corners of the headgasket from damage is very difficult. Hope this helps. Ill look through my videos and see if i can find more detailed info.
@@willpoweredgarage969 yea the cover went on ok. The issue we’re having is that the seal we ordered that’s associated with this engine comes with an installation sleeve, however, it’s too small and the seal seems to small. The internal diameter of the seal is 85mm at full stretch. Whereas the external diameter of the flywheel mounting plate is 90mm. We noticed that the flywheel mount also extrudes about 2in out of the timing system cover. In most videos or illustrations that we’ve seen, they are flush with each other and the seal sits on the outside edge of the flywheel mounting plate. Ours seems to sit on the inside edge of the mount where the diameter drops down to what looks like 87ish mm.
Wow nice one 👍 Keep it up, but how can I know when the crankshaft is in right sexting?
Vagtechnik does these all day everyday, they install the main seal with a small rubber mallet tapping it gently around
Great mechanic work, but the same boring music track over and over and over. Just leave out music. It is only distracting and adds zero. This isn't entertainment, it is how to.
Thank you for watching and taking the time to share your thoughts! Your feedback is valuable to me and I'll take it into consideration for future videos. I hope you still found the mechanic work informative!
Show us timing marks and how it works
There are no timing marks on this engine at all. It's part of what makes it so difficult and requires special tools to do correctly. Thanks for watching.
How dare you skip over putting the cover back on 😂 that's why I'm here how the hell did you get the cover back on without damaging the head gasket? Right now my decision is cut the lower level off this gasket and try again or pull the heads. I'd appreciate some tips if you have any at all
First of all let me say, I'm sorry. I did not show it because I had a world of trouble getting it on. The head gaskets are so thin in that area that it is hard to get it back on without kinking it. If I would have left the camera rolling it would have been a good 20mins of me staring at it trying to figure out how to get it on safely. The best tip I have is like I showed in the video, make sure you put that chamfer/angle on the dowel pin so that you can get the rear cover on easily, well id say at all. I actually ended up taking more material off of the dowel than Audi suggested and that made it so I could get it right in place. I also made sure to put extra sealant on the corners where it met the headgasket. :) Thanks for watching.
Es mejor usar torques con esos motores
Thanks for watching, and commenting.
Its amazing to me that anyone thought its a good idea to put plastic parts inside a critical part of the engine with hot oil and moving steel parts. Just another example of planned obsolescence.
I have to agree. I think the worst part is putting them between the engine and trans. Thanks for watching.
Hi, is the timing cover or what it bolts on to, aluminum? Thanks!
The lower cover is aluminum. The upper covers on the heads are stamped steel.
An interesting and very complex engine. First saw one of these on "Speedkar99" channel, of course he was just taking it apart.
It looks like clockworks in the timing chain area. 🕰
Also watched "Its MechaniCole" do a similar job.
It is very overwhelming at first glance. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video, music a little loud. How many miles on this engine?
Thanks for watching. Yeah, sorry about the music. I'm even still learning how to edit the videos and make them pleasent to watch. That car had about 156,000 miles on it. Had been making chain noise for well over 30k, though, before I finally repaired it.