How to fix a Chev Colorado Cluster
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- In this video I repair a Chevrolet Colorado (same cluster platform as GMC Canyon & Hummer H3) instrument cluster with gauge issues and install red LED's.
For a repair quote send me a email at 1mr.repairman@gmail.com
So cool seeing these on your channel. Worked on these Colorado clusters for years.
The middle LED you were wondering about does the needle backlight for the fuel and coolant needles, and also lights up the PRND321 display.
The 4 right angle LEDs at the bottom can be changed out as well to change the backlight color of the odometer display.
You can also change out each PRND321 LED for whatever color you want too.
Followed your instructions and fixed a 2010 gmc canyon with fluctuating fuel gauge. Thank you so much for the videos!
These videos have helped me immensely when DIYing my 2001 Audi TT cluster (LCD replace and various reflow points, no more LED flickering). Certainly the most difficult part was putting the needles back accurately (need VCDS diag tool to put the cluster in test mode). Mine has two types of stepper motors, rpm and kph and smaller ones for temp and fuel. What I have to say when dealing with unavailable stepper motors is not only put the stepper motors where they belonged previously but also take care not to put them upside down (in mine the motors click into place, no soldering). The problem I now have is the kph gauge is lazy to return when speed drops, probably due to it having worked in a specific range for 20+ years.
One other side note on Colorado clusters, regarding the ODO.
These clusters will advance to whatever the BCM value is, so you have to be careful not to plug them into a higher mileage vehicle or test bench. They will not come back down without eeprom programming.
Yup, and it works the other way too. Had a Colorado come in to the dealer I work at, from another shop, they had swapped a BCM from a junkyard truck with really high miles into a low mile truck, and it changed the mileage in all the modules to the higher miles. They just wanted us to program it and get the right mileage back. Well, not gonna happen, GM programming system doesn't allow it. Swapping modules on any vehicle after 2010 is just asking for trouble
@@Chevtec yep exactly!
I do have some first-hand experience with this. This last summer a shop that was trying to fix up a customers abandoned Colorado to sell. A previous owner put in a junk yard cluster with higher miles (was over 200k iirc) and the odometer stopped counting up. I used my x100 to subtract 10,000 miles at a time until the odometer started counting again. It finally started to match the BCM and start counting at 140k. This is all going off of memory so I could be wrong about some of the details, but we got it to work like it should.
@@jeffescortlx yep that's correct. Odometer won't move, trip will, until BCM catches up with the cluster
Hopefully you had a decent xmas, no cluster repair jobs, no catching colds or any other illness.
I used to be ill on every xmas, i think my immune system has woken up at last :-D
Nice puddy cats, you will never be alone.
Great video Jeff! Thanks!
I worked in a junkyard it's a 2011 cluster all the same cruise control and all the same controls and I put it in my truck and it works fine you don't need to have them programmed
What did the odometer do?
One of my favorites..learned a lot thg hanks
I've had issues with my cluster not working at all in my 05 Colorado. I used to be able to just wiggle the plug in the back and it start working immediately, but now that doesn't work. I thought it was a soldering problem like in other cluster repair videos i've watched but it might be something else
Wonderful video, nice work
Aaaaaawwww kitties 😻😍❤️
So cool , have the same one that quit working ,would like a quote , please
My email is 1mr.repairman@gmail.com
Great video per usual Jeff! What are you using to send the serial data signal? On the full size GM clusters I've got an ECM setup with potentiometers for the different sensors and then connect the serial data line from the ECM to the cluster data line.
ruclips.net/video/LnDgK4rJ2us/видео.html
My tach quit working on my cluster plus I would like to have blue lights put in how much would you charge?
The speedo on my Canyon is starting to act up. How exactly did you fix them. Just re-soldering?
Great Video....Thanks
I have no sound on the signal or emergency flashers. Could it be a bad speaker? or a bad solder joint?
I would start by looking for fractured solder joints.
@@jeffescortlx Thanks
Thank you for the very informative and detailed video. I have a 2005 Colorado, and the backlighting works normally for short drives (although sometimes they are stuck on the dimmest setting), but after more than 30-60 minutes, it cuts out, although the needles and everything still move, and the DIC and blinker arrows still illuminate normally, the gauges don't. This also happens if I shut off the truck and turn it back on after driving. This is fine during the day, but at night it makes it impossible to see my speed once they go dark. I tried replacing the interior light switch, cleaning all of the grounds (even made some extra grounds), I don't really know what else to do. Any suggestions? I had heard the issue might be the BCM, but I opened this up and everything looks fine to me.
If the radio, climate control and other dashboard buttons don't have any trouble with backlighting, it's probably not because of the dimmer/BCM. It could be a defective LED within the instrument cluster, but unfortunately you can't tell if it's bad by just looking at it.
@@jeffescortlx Thanks for the reply. The lighting only goes out behind the gauges. Stuff like window switches and HVAC is still backlit (although 1 or 2 bulbs are completely burned out in the HVAC), even the DIC in the middle of the gauges stays lit. Sometimes the gauges are also dim, and then the dimmer switch seems to have no effect on them. I'm proficient enough to replace the LEDs if I get some, I'm just worried about popping off the needles. I'm gonna try replacing the headlight switch one more time (I sent the last one back), if that doesn't work, you think an LED swap would be the next thing to try? I think I'd just put a full set of new white ones in (same spots you did the red in this video) even if only one was bad, just to be done with the issue for good. Again, thanks, and happy holidays to you!
@@eb110americanait sounds to me your Instrument cluster has failing LEDs. Yes I would recommend all LED backlight replacement. No need to worry about the indicator LEDs.
@@jeffescortlx Thank you so much. I ordered a 100 pack of white LEDs, so I think I have my holiday vacation project ahead of me (or one of them, anyway). I think you are probably right. I will let you know how it turns out once I go on a longer drive that would normally shut off the gauge backlights.
@@jeffescortlx I mentioned last time that I would update you on how the replacement went. And I am happy to report that the backlighting behind the gauges is fixed! I took a long 3-hour drive to visit my dad, with the last hour after sunset, and the full 3-hours back at night, and not once then or since has there been a problem. I would have spent around $500 to replace the BCM next if this didn't do it, so you saved me a grip as well. I'd have been happy if the lights went back to factory brightness levels, but bonus: the gauges are now super white and crisp, way better than factory. The only difference is that the LEDs are so efficient, that you cannot dim them with the dimmer switch anymore (only the HVAC controls now dim, since the rest is all LED)--but I never dim them anyway, so no loss. Total cost for the pack of 100 LEDs on Amazon was $10 + tax, and I only used 7. Again, thank you so much for your video and assistance, it was a lot of help fixing something that has been an issue with my truck for a few years now.
Well I am out of luck lasted 3days when back to cut off again so I don't know what to try next i got a bad filling that is got something to do whit the computer on the truck I going to try another cluster I let you know what is come out
My dads chevrolet colorado 2004 the fuel gauge is always on full can it be the gauge or the fuel pump float ? if we move the car the gauge needle goes up and down.
Did I read this right, that is I use a data line from a BCM to power on the lights that it will change the milage of the cluster to whatever is on the BCM?
But no not exactly. If the miles on the cluster is less than the miles and the BCM I believe the cluster will automatically jump up to the miles that's on the BCM. But if the miles are higher on the cluster than in the BCM, The odometer will stop counting and just stay there until the BCM catches up to what the cluster says. It's best to just not swap clusters and keep the original cluster with the original vehicle.
@jeffescortlx Thanks for answering, I wanted to do this on a work bench. I have been repairing clusters for awhile and wanted to add Colorado to my list
2005 gmc cayon
Great video, I have a 2007 Colorado that the turn signal audible signal quit working. I'm retired Chevrolet dealer tech and the wiring diagram shows to have a speaker to generate the sound. Could this be a cracked solder joint? I can't see paying the 300 bucks for a reman cluster and it doesn't bother me until I get the annoying dinging letting me know I'm stupid for leaving my turn signal on.
I can't say for sure. I haven't come across that issue yet.
Great video. I habe a 05 Colorado water got to the dash. Whole Tac is out. When putting on turn signal it flashes w/ check engine. Other than that nothing works. You think whole tac needs ro be replaced? Thanks!
Well sounds to me the entire instrument cluster needs to be replaced not just the tachometer.
But unfortunately it's not that simple with the Colorado. If you try to install a used junkyard instrument cluster into the Colorado the odometer will freeze up and not work. So whatever you do make sure to save the original instrument cluster even though it's water damaged.
excellent, thank you
Thank you for posting this... excellent video.
Question: I have programmed out the Passlock function in the ECM calibration, but I still get the red light randomly flashing on the cluster from time to time while driving. Can I simply un-solder the the red Passlock LED from the board and leave those pads blank (open circuit) in order to eliminate the light altogether, or do I need to install a suitable resistor in its place on those pads? If so, any ideas as to what type/specs resistor I should solder in?
I would do neither. I would cover the LED with some black electrical tape.
@@jeffescortlx Good idea... an even simpler solution... thank you!
Great video and nice to see a new type of cluster. Regarding LEDs, do you have a recommendation or source for some to match the 07-13 GM fullsize turquoise color (blue lagoon is what I've heard it called)?
I haven't run across a situation where someone needed an OEM led for the 07-14 full size. Usually the only time I'm replacing the LED's is to change the color.
I would like a quote on fixing a cluster for a 2005 gmc cayon
My email address is 1mr.repairman@gmail.com
Hello, by any chance do you know how to make the turning signal/hazard lights "tic toc" sound work again?
Mine stopped working randomly even though everything still works just fine. There is little to no info about it in 355 forums.
I'd need to get my hands on it to trouble shoot.
I got the same cluster on mi truck colorado 2004 I can get the buss signal part to come on the plugs soldering looks good but the female plug on the truck is hard to check I wonder it is possible that the signal is not coming out of the computer? I have no bench tester so any other way to check this I will spreciate you help thanks
Does a scan tool have any trouble communicating and getting codes?
Thank you for you response no all codes good I fix it i check the circuits lines find a hiding cut on the male plug pin also a rewire ground clean battery connection came a life right on this truck have terrible cluster plug and ground connection plug thank you. you videos help a lot I work on old classic rebuilding cars clusters fiew years back never on electronics ones but I do other types of electronics so this was easy thank you for you time and videos
nice work
Nice information
How did you get into cluster repair and other electronic repairs? Is it your full time job or just a hobby? Electronics always interested me and i honestly don't know why i didn't get into it. Maybe if the internet was around like it is today when i was growing up i might have. I'm an automotive tech and i like diagnosing electrical issues but i feel like its time to move on and change careers, i know what ever i do isn't going to happen overnight
I've had an interest in electronics since I was a child. After high school I went to a technical college. I have 20 years experience as a panel technician. I have some family members with GM vehicles that didn't want to pay dealer prices to get them fixed. They asked me to give it a shot since they knew I could solder.
What do you run the serial buss wire to?
Jeff, would you have any idea why the engine hour meter on an '04 GMC Sierra cluster reset to zero hours? The truck has 508,000 miles on it and the hour meter had 12,000 plus hours showing when it reset itself. Thanks.
It's a very common problem. I believe it has something to do with the way the hours are stored on the eprom. Mileage is stored in triplicate and itself checks itself but I don't believe hours are.
Having an issue with my 2011 Colorado cluster thinking maybe you could help me out. I recently took my cluster apart so I could clean the inside and accidentally bumped a couple of gauges slightly. Once I was done cleaning I moved a couple of the gauges back to their zero position. But for some reason the tachometer gauge keeps wanting to go down below the zero mark. It randomly after the third fourth, fifth sometimes 6th key on, it makes a buzzing clicking sounds as does the one in the video which I believe is normal, and at that point it moves needle down past zero mark, I've tried moving the needle to the zero Mark with power on, power off, key on but engine off. Yet for some reason it keeps wanting to move itself about an inch and a half to three quarters of an inch below the zero mark even though I moved it to the zero mark. I've also tried moving it up to the three and with several key on key offs it eventually Works itself down to again past zero mark. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thank you.
You'll need to remove the needle, power on the cluster without the engine running and then reseat the needle in the correct starting home position.
@@jeffescortlx I will try that, although it don't make much sense since I never actually removed the needle in the first place.
@@curtisbull1583I understand. But you may have bumped into the needle enough to make it spin on the shaft.
Thanks! Jeff🛻
what voltage does it occupy for that led, I have a red one the same and I would like to know what type of led the vdd has left I don't know about that issue
This uses a standard 3528, voltage is around 2-3 volts depending on color. I believe the circuit limits/regulates the current.
can you put 3.3 volts?
@@mariovelazquez7776 yes
Does the cluster need to see a specific serial bus signal, or does any signal do?
I'm not exactly sure. But my 03 Silverado ECU/BCM talks to it and turns it on
Can you suggest a decent solder sucker? I found the links in an older video, but they no longer work.
I myself like the hakko FR-301
Do you have a video on repairing the odometer my odometer does not work everything else works fine no odometer no trip
No I believe this is the only video I have that goes over the Colorado cluster.
what pins do you use for the power aswell as how do I get the serial bus connection?
Email sent.
My cluster on my 04 colorado recently froze with only the signals and engine light working, is there any chance to make the serial bus signal work again without replacing the entire unit ?
Hard to say without knowing the source of the problem.
@@jeffescortlx was working fine till a few hard bumps killed all the lights and froze the dials, only indication it’s getting power is the signal arrows still work and the check engine and security light powers up when putting the key in the start position. What check list should I go through to see if it’s a problem that could be fixed?
Thanks for the reply btw
@@sockmangames the CEL and blinker indicators don't use the cluster logic to run, they are independent.
Start with checking fuses, power and ground coming in.
@@jeffescortlx funny thing just happened, honked the horn and it unfroze it all, bringing all the lights back on. It did throw a p0650 code after that but I haven’t found any burnt out circuits as of yet
have you worked on Toyota prius m.f.d and if you have do you have video on repair
Sorry I haven't.
Sir, I have a 2004 Colorado that the odometer stopped at 36054 and the trip odometer is 0 no moving. Anything else on the dashboard works fine. Do you have any idea? Or any suggestions where to start? Thanks.
Do you know the history of the truck and cluster?
History was clean. Everything is original. Truck was bought and used on farm only.
The local GM dealer checked but not able to find anything wrong, according to them. They said couldn’t find any code on either cluster and BCM.
@@Panawell-rt8kg the only time I've seen a Colorado cluster work perfect except for the odometer no longer counting is when it was switched out for a non original. Did you see the odometer work before it didn't?
My temp gauge on my Colorado shows 3/4 with the key off and then goes above max hot but its not overheating the gauge is faulty. Will the solder joints cause this or a failed stepper motor?
For the Colorado model this is more than likely just a bad solder joint at the stepper motor.
@jeffescortlx thank you. I am an A level Auto tech. What was the fluid you dripped over the joints. Is that just Flux? I'm sorry first time to your channel. Also I will send you 25 dollars for your help if this is the fix. Thank you Jeff.
@@jeffescortlx as a tech like yourself in the trades we don't work for free, nor should you
@@acetech9237 Yes it's just flux. It's not required, but it does make nicer solder joints.
One more thing. I don't see any rings. I have a set of magnifying glasses you put Over your eyes like normal glasses but can't find them at this moment. I don't see any rings on the joints. I'm trying to email you at the 1mr. Email address but won't go through. I'll keep trying. The question I have is if say the joints are OK is it worth plugging it in turning key to on position and trying to reposition the needle after it has say 20 seconds to do its sweep of the gauges and see it that works? I think this may have been sent off before. The back of the cluster in a corner that looks like sharpie reads SMD OK FCT OK ICT OK. I'm wondering if someone say over seated the needle like you mentioned not to do if it may have just changed its orientation and needs to be put back. After running the truck 15 mins the temp needle read above the max temp position which is why I ask, even though with my infrared temp gun the temps were normal and fine. I have 00926 stepper motors. I can buy a used one from a reputable seller for 30 bucks. Would Changing the needle position to test my theory be a bad idea or should I just opt. For a new stepper motor and solder it on? Thanks Jeff.
12 volts coming from power source? And where did you get the leds?
Yes the cluster is powered by 12v. I get my LEDs from Mouser, Digi-Key, element 14 Newark, Amazon or eBay.
We have the same board and there is no gauge led's that light up?
While it's in the vehicle and headlights are turned on? If the rest of the dashboard lighting works you might just have a defective LED causing them not to light.
@@jeffescortlx It was just all the gauge lights, from you videos I was able to just go thru and re tough all solder points and it now works great, looks better than when it was new. Thanks again for the videos...👍
@@neiltyner1796 glad you got it working!
What does it mean when the whole cluster goes out randomly and then comes back randomly ??
Depends, is the vehicle a Colorado?
@@jeffescortlx yes it’s a 2004 Colorado . The whole dash goes out but the warning lights
@@chapinbound9017 could be a few different things. If it seems to be temperature dependent it could be a bad microcontroller, or it could be a fractured solder joint somewhere like an inductor, If you go over a bump and it causes it to be intermittent. Without hands on troubleshooting it's just a guessing game.
Quick question so my cluster comes on and off all lights and everything work expect all the analogs .. rpm , speed , gas and oil stay at 0 .
Could be a few things. Possible microcontroller going out. I believe it drives the stepper motors directly.
@@jeffescortlx is that’s something I can do myself or it’s better to have someone else do it or just replace it ??
@@chapinbound9017 New microcontrollers are not available pre-programmed, and are difficult to replace without experience and good tools.
The Colorado is picky about cluster replacement if you don't go with the dealership doing it. If the replacement cluster has too low of miles, the odometer will not count up. If the miles are too high the odometer will count, but the BCM will force the odometer value to that new higher number.
@@jeffescortlx do you do repairs on them ? Like maybe get it shipped to you
@@chapinbound9017 yes. Although if it is a bad microcontroller a replacement donor board will be needed. The odometer value can be transferred over.
I'd like to do this to mine. Where did you get the red LEDs???
Mouser or Digi-Key is your best bet for name brand. If you're not concerned eBay, AliExpress or Amazon will have them also.
I'd love to see your setup. "Tools etc.
ruclips.net/video/LnDgK4rJ2us/видео.html
@@jeffescortlx oh sweet thanks!
hey whats usually the issue when a cluster works for 30-45 minutes and then shuts off completely until the next day? i got a 01 dodge dakota. its stumped me for a year
I'm not familiar with that year/model. Perhaps a fractured solder joint or failing component.
@@jeffescortlx It happens every single day it's weird. I resoldered pretty much all the joints except the really small ones on the chips. You never saw an issue like that before on a different cluster? Really idk if its even the cluster or something outside of it
how do i order the leds?
hi jeff where can i contact you for a cluster personalized?
ruclips.net/video/T_2WnJMsZaU/видео.html
You should get some hot tweezers much easier then using two irons
I've been down that road. I believe having separate soldering irons is more useful than just a dedicated tweezers.
I have a 2009 canyon
For quotes my contact information is available in the description of this video.
How do you simulate the series bus signal
With a home made bus tester.
@@jeffescortlx thanks I figure need a bcm ecm cluster all wire together
@@larryandbelindaflowers4828 yes that is correct.
👍
Having temp gauge issues with my Colorado cluster. Can I have your contact info would like to send to you. Thanks
1mr.repairman@gmail.com
@@jeffescortlx just sent email thanks!
I would've been tempted to just put a red filter over each LED.
You have to remember that wave length of the white leds maybe not be suitable for a red filter. They may shine as purple affect Lol.
Wait, did you just say that the dealership techs didn’t know how to program the cluster to the truck? With their dealership level tools, and dealership level training they didn’t know how to do it 🤦♂️ I’m in bum hole of UK, where those vehicles are non existent and we happen to have a fleet of those Chevys. I had to figure out what tools US dealerships use, purchase the kit and subscription, then figure out how to use it because we had few of these awaiting programming 🤷♂️ and it certainly was easier to get unfamiliar software and learn on the go rather than send whole trucks back to USA 🤣
As a GM tech, I can tell you that GM techs DO know how to program a cluster, we do it all the time. The problem is, the GM service programming that the dealerships use will not allow the techs to program a used or junkyard cluster and change/correct the mileage. We can only program the mileage into new/reman clusters that show ZERO miles. If it's a used cluster from a junkyard, every GM dealer is going to tell you the same thing, that they can't help you. It's not because they are stupid.
@@Chevtec now that makes more sense! Yeah, I’ve only dealt with remanufactured clusters and that was easy
I did a cluster swap once I bought one with the closet mileage to mine (slightly higher) then just racked up miles tell it was at the clusters mileage.. then did the swap.. I was too cheap to pay for a reprograming
I mean GM dealership techs will also tell you you can't reuse keyfobs. A surprising number of them actually believe it too. lol
@@Chevtec I agree. I didn't intend to word it to make it sound like the GM techs were stupid. I have heard of other times that people have tried to get cluster programming done at the GM dealership and they were told the techs didn't know how. So I assumed it just might not be part of the training and only the techs that take the time to learn it know and there are some that never have, just speculating off of past experiences. Is this part of basic training that everyone needs to know? Or does this just boil down to a techs experience?
Jeff I have the same cluster, the tach drops out after a few seconds of engine running. Everything else works. Any ideas? Here is a video ruclips.net/video/ZlniIyXCjPI/видео.html
Taking a look at your video makes me think it's not an issue with the instrument cluster at all, but maybe where the source of the RPM signal comes from.
Can I make a request for anything, not GM, please? Some of those ridiculously complex Chrysler products should be amusing. Can't understand why someone would want to change the colors of their LEDs.
Yes some Chrysler stuff will be coming up in the future. The owners of this truck wanted to change the color to red because the truck is red.
@@jeffescortlx Thank you
Great video! Thanks Jeff!
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