No-Heat call, High efficiency furnace vent screen
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2019
- No heat call....found an incorrect vent screen was blocking exhaust gases causing the pressure switch to trip
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If you are in the Philadelphia area and need residential or commercial HVAC service, call us at 484-322-5913 or visit our website @ WhitingServicesLLC.com
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Thank you for the knowledge, great catch!
I actually had this problem around 16-18 yrs ago. Looking into the exhaust pipe from the furnace end you could see many dust-covered cob webs inside. I cleaned it out and blew compressed air through it. Worked fine after that.
I've had fiberglass window screen installed on my 96 percent Carrier furnace (59TP5A060) intake and exhaust for 9 years and never had a problem. It's installed the same as in the video with stainless steel hose clamps. I live in SE Michigan and it does get very cold here in the winter.
Nice bro!!,watching from philipines!,imductman support😍😍
my furnace has been shutting off and seemed those pipes, went outside and cleared the mud from the yellowjackets using an extention pole with damp sock on the end of it. had it happen 4 years ago, can't get to some of the inside pipes but blew them out with blower best i could, next summer i will be installing a screen or hosery for the summer cause i think the older the furnace gets the more comfortable these yellowjackets are moving into them, i do have the larger wire but that doesn't help with mud in there
I'm licensed plumber fitter every lockinvar has the same problem if developed length is under size nice job
Great video! When i vacuum the outside vents do i need to unhook anything from inside the furnace? Hoses? Thanks!!
Just a friendly tip, that intake should be goosenecked down and to the right minimum of 1 foot down 1 foot to the right side so you don’t get recirculation of exhaust gases through your intake. You will chew through heat exchangers this way.
The exhaust is 12 inches minimum from the intake as required by the manufacturer.
This set up is correct and gases will not recirc.
Also, the intakes ARE facing downward.
You only need 12 inches separation vertically. Not both vertical and horizontally. You can check the install manual of any manufacturer and see that.
It also says the same thing in the fuel gas code and the ICC residential code.
Been living in my house for the last 10 years and doesn’t have any screen at all on mine. Haven’t had any issues such as pest. I could be lucky. Only issue I saw last week was there are leaves that got sucked into the furnace. Not a lot maybe just a couple of dried leaves from the fall. Clean it out just a precaution. I’m thinking of putting the screen shown here. Thanks
Alot of systems dont have them. Most of the time its not a problem, until it is.
Very nice. Does he air intake and exhaust pipe need to be angled back towards the unit or angled outside? Where would any water go?
Angled back towards the furnace. It goes down a condensate drain pipe and gets removed
Some people I tell you, some dumb city inspectors even asked for this thing.
I don’t use anything. Chances of getting stuff in there is minimum.
I have one in a thousand furnaces we install
I have a plastic cap on mine that seems to have been made specifically for it and has about 1/4" holes. When it gets cold like it is now (sub zero temps) it gets frozen condensation in it about every 3-5 hours and the furnace shuts off.
I took the cap off entirely the other day and within several hours the entire pipe was packed with snow-like condensation about 4" in. I don't know what to do because I don't think steel wire will help mine.
My suggestion is to stop at Home depot, get a "45 degree street elbow". Glue it onto the outlet of that vent, pointing down. That will prevent snow from accumulating on the outlet. That should solve the problem.
Another solution is cutting the elbow off the top of the pipe and replacing it with a Tee fitting. That way even if the snow is blowing from one direction, the other side will be clear. Also doubles your outlet area.
@@whitingservicesheatinganda3858 Done! Thank you!
I would think the 90 degree elbow on the combustion outlet pipe would create some kind of back pressure. Certainly understand why a homeowner would screen these pipes - but that solution creates more problems.
This pipe termination is installed correctly according to manufacturer spec. With a distance of 12 in between the outlet and Inlet pipe, the inlet pipe facing down and the exhaust pipe facing out.
Elbows do create resistance. But that resistance is known and calculated. The elbows are required to be long radius style.
Typically manufacturers call for a total allowable length of Inlet / exhaust system piping. Each elbow equates to a given linear length that will be deducted from the total length of the system.
For instance 2 in long radius elbows like the ones in this video typically equate to 3 linear feet of the pipe system. However it can change slightly between manufacturers.
Therefore say a manufacturer issues a maximum 90 ft of pipe system. If your pipe system has 3 elbows in it and each of them equate to 3 linear feet, then deduct that from the total and you have 81 available feet of pipe.
Each manufacturer has a different total length pipe system because different combustion air fans have different specs.
In this case the screens should have been installed by the system installer. And the homeowner never would have had to put them on.
Thanks for watching!
If you are in the Philadelphia area and need residential or commercial HVAC service, call us at 484-322-5913 or visit our website @ WhitingServicesLLC.com
Summer months when insects come around...won't the one on the right let insects in possibly?
Yes but its not usually a problem. Once in awhile tho.
Doesn't it make sense to:
1. Point them down to prevent rain and debris from going in?
2. Use a fine wire to prevent small critters (bugs, wasps, etc) from entering?
1. The exhaust air is already going in an upward Direction when it comes out because it's warm. Also we don't want to shoot it downwards because it will get sucked into the intake pipe. This can cause flame out due to lack of oxygen in the burner. The pipe configuration you see here is according to the International Code Council(ICC) code book
2. In the video we explain why you can't use fine wire. The holes must be at least one quarter inch wide, otherwise condensation will turn into ice and block the flow of gases out of the pipe.
They are going to have mosquito 😂
Remember: you don't even need a GED to get a job in HVAC.
True, you also dont need it to be President either.
George Bush Jr couldn't do hvac or rerember his phone number
There should be some kind of regulation here, I see so much advice that idiotic, for example this vid. First of all, that is
galvanized steel, which will last about 1 year before it rusts into dust. Secondly, that mesh is just perfect for hosting wasp and bee nests, so what was the purpose of 1/2" mesh, to keep birds out? To refuse to pay a bit more for stainless steel mesh when you're only buying enough to cover a few square inches is totally idiotic.
Yea, stainless steel mesh would be much better but 1/2" or 1/4" mesh is what's recommended by the manufacturers. Keeps rodents out without clogging/icing up.
Thanks for your constructive criticism. We did in fact stop using that particular material. Stainless steel wire is harder to find, but we now use prefabricated plastic end screens.
And yes the screen holes need to be over 1/4 inch. Yes to keep birds out. Birds get in the pipe pretty often. The screens we removed were icing over for the exact reason the manufacturer recommends more than 1/4 inch, because water will collect and freeze.
*V
They both look bad