I have a shaft with a pxg adapter already attached to it that I'm looking to put on a pxg 3 hybrid head. Do I need to epoxy the shaft into the club head? Or is the screw all that is necessary to hold the shaft and adapter to the club head?
I use acetone on a small piece of white cloth, gun patch, or paper towel to swab out the bore of the driver head after using a wire brush on a drill motor to clean it out. Surprising what'll come out of what looks to be a spotless bore.
Hi Ryan, another great video! That's such a perfect 'snug' fit. RARELY do I ever have any club that fits that well. Perhaps the next video can be one where a shim is needed?
That's a great idea Gary. Since all of these videos come from the fact that I am just doing actual work and decide to film, the next time I have to shim a wood or iron I will certainly make a video. Thanks or watching.
Greetings Rayan, great demo I getting a new driver head, 1. how can I remove the existing head from my old shaft and fix new one 2. what is the name of epoxy
With some of the reshaftimg I've done the fit doesn't seem that snug always and there is a bit of movement but not enough to put a shim on. Is that ok with a bit more epoxy? They seem solid after curing but was curious any tips or best practices. Thanks!
Too much epoxy is a bad thing! This is where shafting beads or something thicker like a "quick center" help get the shaft snug and take up the extra room. Another great tip is to let the epoxy sit for a little bit to thicken up - but not too much that you loose working time. The truth is some shafts will sit slightly off center, but if it's only a minor amount then there is not much to worry about, when there enough lean to cause an issue with the ferrule you will need to find a different solution.
@@ryanbarath1916 Thanks for the reply, I've used shafting beads a bit but a little unsure of how much to use. Any recommendations, I've just sprinkled a few in the epoxy when mixing but should I add more?
The only benefit of the lighter grip would be to increase swing weight. As for building a shorter driver you have to make sure head weight is adjusted to get it to spec
@ryan barath I've got a GD Tour AD DI in my TM M5 and was told it would have been tipped by 1", does this sound correct? Is it because of the manufacturers trimming guideline or bore depth of the TM adaptors. Thank you, new sub from NZ.
@@ryanbarath1916 Thank you, I am also doing a build project for a set of irons at the moment and I was wondering if you could please help me with a few questions by providing some guidance and advice, I am happy to pay for any service. What's the best way to communicate with you directly please? Thank you.
I know you mentioned grabbing some CPM data, what if anything did you do with that measurement as far as trinmming? Also, did you make any adjustments for swing weight before installing the shaft?
I had no plans to tip the shaft but by checking CPM it just allows me to keep data on what I'm building for any future reference. I don't worry too much about swing weight - especially when it comes to a driver, but I do make sure the head weight is right where I want it before assembly.
Great video as usual, I am re-shafting my TaylorMade SLDR driver (Project X Loading Zone 17 6.5 didn't want to spring for the Hzrdus). Did you tip your Accra shaft? Also I have never thought of leaving the sleeve/hosel in the driver head and then epoxying, do you do this on all adjustable heads? Thanks
After talking with Accra and getting some initial data compared to what I've tested in the past I did NOT tip this shaft. Unless it is not available, I always install the shaft into the adapter while its in the head. This allows to to check length pre-build and also make sure the graphics are aligned how I want them.
Thanks. Great video, but I have a couple questions. Do I HAVE to have beads? If it matters, I'm re-shafting clubs for a beginner, an 11 year old girl. This shaft will probably be replaced within 1-2 years as she grows. And why do I need to wait 24 hours to cut it? Trying to get these ready for a match tomorrow afternoon. I was going to replace tonight, then cut and grip in the morning.
I used to build clubs decades ago (hey, I'm old :) ), but that was before the adjustable hosels. A couple questions: Can a shaft be removed from an adaptor/adjustable hosel, or do you have to buy a new adaptor and just put a different shaft into the new adaptor. I'm not familiar with the tech nowadays, but I assume the adaptor itself does not get epoxied into the hosel, but rather is held in place using a screw or nut of some kind so that the whole thing can be taken out?
Club is measured using a ruler from the middle of the sole to the end of the shaft ( or final length to be marked ) measure where the bottom of the sole and the axis of the shaft meet.
I have a shaft with a pxg adapter already attached to it that I'm looking to put on a pxg 3 hybrid head. Do I need to epoxy the shaft into the club head? Or is the screw all that is necessary to hold the shaft and adapter to the club head?
I use acetone on a small piece of white cloth, gun patch, or paper towel to swab out the bore of the driver head after using a wire brush on a drill motor to clean it out. Surprising what'll come out of what looks to be a spotless bore.
Plan on doing my old wedge's to test, excellent video, very well explained 👍 subed
Hi Ryan, another great video! That's such a perfect 'snug' fit. RARELY do I ever have any club that fits that well. Perhaps the next video can be one where a shim is needed?
That's a great idea Gary.
Since all of these videos come from the fact that I am just doing actual work and decide to film, the next time I have to shim a wood or iron I will certainly make a video.
Thanks or watching.
Does a driver shaft and a 3 wood shaft start as the same thing
Just cut different
Yes - they are just tipped differently
Greetings Rayan, great demo I getting a new driver head, 1. how can I remove the existing head from my old shaft and fix new one 2. what is the name of epoxy
With some of the reshaftimg I've done the fit doesn't seem that snug always and there is a bit of movement but not enough to put a shim on. Is that ok with a bit more epoxy? They seem solid after curing but was curious any tips or best practices. Thanks!
Too much epoxy is a bad thing!
This is where shafting beads or something thicker like a "quick center" help get the shaft snug and take up the extra room. Another great tip is to let the epoxy sit for a little bit to thicken up - but not too much that you loose working time.
The truth is some shafts will sit slightly off center, but if it's only a minor amount then there is not much to worry about, when there enough lean to cause an issue with the ferrule you will need to find a different solution.
@@ryanbarath1916 Thanks for the reply, I've used shafting beads a bit but a little unsure of how much to use. Any recommendations, I've just sprinkled a few in the epoxy when mixing but should I add more?
can you talk aboit building components of a 44.5" driver and the benefits of using a 25 grams grip if any??
The only benefit of the lighter grip would be to increase swing weight.
As for building a shorter driver you have to make sure head weight is adjusted to get it to spec
@@ryanbarath1916 so you would not do the lighter grip to get it back to d3.
thanks for the reply
What type of epoxy do you use? Does it matter?
I use to a two-part golf-specific epoxy
How deep does the .370 tip need to go in club head?
Do you tip the driver shafts at all, or just cut down from the butt end?
I tip if need be depending on the shafts and the golfer
How hard is it to get the prototype shaft from Accra?
Ryan- where do you purchase a frequency machine like you have?
Mine is an old OEM machine - best comparable would be the Maltby machine now
Did you have to find the spine to the rod?
@ryan barath I've got a GD Tour AD DI in my TM M5 and was told it would have been tipped by 1", does this sound correct? Is it because of the manufacturers trimming guideline or bore depth of the TM adaptors. Thank you, new sub from NZ.
if it was built stock from TaylorMade than it is tipped 1" - that is their standard tipping
@@ryanbarath1916 Thank you, I am also doing a build project for a set of irons at the moment and I was wondering if you could please help me with a few questions by providing some guidance and advice, I am happy to pay for any service. What's the best way to communicate with you directly please? Thank you.
I know you mentioned grabbing some CPM data, what if anything did you do with that measurement as far as trinmming? Also, did you make any adjustments for swing weight before installing the shaft?
I had no plans to tip the shaft but by checking CPM it just allows me to keep data on what I'm building for any future reference. I don't worry too much about swing weight - especially when it comes to a driver, but I do make sure the head weight is right where I want it before assembly.
Great video as usual, I am re-shafting my TaylorMade SLDR driver (Project X Loading Zone 17 6.5 didn't want to spring for the Hzrdus). Did you tip your Accra shaft? Also I have never thought of leaving the sleeve/hosel in the driver head and then epoxying, do you do this on all adjustable heads? Thanks
After talking with Accra and getting some initial data compared to what I've tested in the past I did NOT tip this shaft.
Unless it is not available, I always install the shaft into the adapter while its in the head. This allows to to check length pre-build and also make sure the graphics are aligned how I want them.
Thanks. Great video, but I have a couple questions. Do I HAVE to have beads? If it matters, I'm re-shafting clubs for a beginner, an 11 year old girl. This shaft will probably be replaced within 1-2 years as she grows. And why do I need to wait 24 hours to cut it? Trying to get these ready for a match tomorrow afternoon. I was going to replace tonight, then cut and grip in the morning.
You don't need the beads, it just helps for a bit of extra security.
I used to build clubs decades ago (hey, I'm old :) ), but that was before the adjustable hosels.
A couple questions: Can a shaft be removed from an adaptor/adjustable hosel, or do you have to buy a new adaptor and just put a different shaft into the new adaptor.
I'm not familiar with the tech nowadays, but I assume the adaptor itself does not get epoxied into the hosel, but rather is held in place using a screw or nut of some kind so that the whole thing can be taken out?
Most adapters can be reused- I did a video on how to pull an adapter from a graphite shaft:
ruclips.net/video/DUzRxAm31g0/видео.html
This may seem basic but you said 24 hours then cut to length. How is length measured on a driver?
Club is measured using a ruler from the middle of the sole to the end of the shaft ( or final length to be marked ) measure where the bottom of the sole and the axis of the shaft meet.
What kind of glue did you use??
2 part epoxy