This does not look to be a failure of product, rather a failure of installation of it. The application of eternabond should be done with a roller so there are no "gaps". That being said, if after 10 years in the desert that is the extent of the damage to that tape. I'd call that a win. Tell me what dicor looks like in 10 years of desert sun.
I agree. I was told that my roof needs t b resealed with silastic every 2 yrs and quoted AU $1200! when i asked them about the tape they said, It wont last! Well neither does silicon. Give me strength
Amen no rv roof last in heavy rain or dry hot climate and 10 years that’s the failure Sounds to me eterna bond is a 5-8 yr fix while these robbers of rv roof repairs are *every year get the F out of here
Glad I am having perfect results with my Eternabond seal. 8 years on a new TPO roof and is just as new looking as the day we put it on. Could be the ZEP Floor Polish Wet look I also coated it with at the same time. Roof looks just as good as the day it was installed. And it is stored outside. 2006 Everest 344j.
I’m getting ready to buy some Eternabond for all of my roof seals. I know that wasn’t the intent of your video, but lasting that long in extreme heat and sun before needing repair is a major selling point for me. If I can get 5 years out of it in the Carolinas’ weather before needing replacement then I’ll be a happy camper. Nice work on the video, BTW, even though I somewhat disagree with your conclusion.
That factory "tape" was not applied correctly. It was stretched over the contours instead of being applied to follow the shape of the material underneath. The Eternabond now cannot expand-contract, it starts tearing, and the cracks hold water. Also, any roofer will tell people that low spots in the construction should never exist, or be properly addressed when the roof is installed. The environment HAS to be taken into consideration with any construction. I assume that in the desert, most materials will dry and crack faster than in a humid environment. Stay gold.
Eternabond did its job as far as I am concerned, the failure is more on the design and construction method used by Artic Fox. You seem to have an axe to grind with Eternabond, it's a great product and I wouldn't even dream of using anything else on my RV. No sealant would have performed better under the circumstances.
Twelve years ago I covered the front and rear cap seams with Eternabond over Dicor, I sealed the edges with 3M 5200 (would have used the 5200 instead of Dicor on the caps, but dealer had already put fresh Dicor there). No problems in all these years, no maintenance at all, and that is with winters in AZ and hot summers at home. My Eternabond looks nothing like that, it looks the same as the day I applied it.
So, again its improper installation of the tape as it wasn't pressed into the moulding curve causing a stress point/void for failure. Tape is difficult to lay into that small curve due to its thickness and quick adhesion. Dicor would have been preferred originally.
Yeah, I'd rather pay for a roll of eternabond and have it last 10 years or more than to have to keep buying tubes of self-leveling sealant and have to check every single year.
@@AZExpert Ziollo RV Flex Repair 100% Silicone RV Roof Sealant Whats your opinion of using this on a rubber roof. I have a 2010 coachmen catalina 17rd that needs preventive maintenance but I'm undecided what material is the best to use. So many different products and everyone has good things to say about them.
Love Your Video tutorials. Awesome work! Just find it interesting you never use any heat to soften the sealants you remove. Nor do I ever see you sharpen a hard plastic putty knife to do the work around hard items, one might benefit from not scratching? Arizona for 9 years plus on a thin layer if eterna bonds top layer is pretty good. As soon as it started to crack, a owner should of found ya, for a reseal. If not sooner. As with all things created with stock value in mind, the parts of RVs assembled when clean and new, doesn't change the fact that the installer was rushed, did not have all the suggestable tools available, and is constantly told faster was better for the company.
I do “do that”. I’m on our travel trailer roof at least 3-6 times a year, every year. I use a heat gun and plastic scrapers to scrape off the old self leveling lap sealant and then clean the area with alcohol, and apply new sealant This year I actually power washed the roof and “painted” on new membrane sealant. Our roof is 18 years old and does not leak. I have plans to replace the membrane either next summer or the next year after that 24-25 time frame. I’ve got to find a place I can do the work at, preferably some place covered because we do get quite a few bad thunderstorms every year. I also want to replace the black corrugated plastic cover on the bottom of the trailer and the insulation. I really want to insulate our camper as much as possible to live in - in the winter. But I’m afraid it might not be plausible. We drop below zero around here sometimes for weeks at a time. I’d hate to freeze to death lol
What do you think is the best insulation? Most rv's are perobably just stuffed with styrofoam.. I want to experiment with cellulose insulation. I wonder if there are cellulose panels yet, or do I have to invent them?..
It’s my understanding there should have been sealant under the Eternabond and the sealant doesn’t weather being covered with the Eternabond. You just need to apply after the sealant has cured two months.
Thanks for info. I just did use eternabond, Dicor and GE 10 year silicone to re repair a grudge in my RV roof from a huge branch. It was an area surround a vent pipe too. 10 inches along the edge. Took the trim/rain gutter back. Used an oscillating scraper.. no teeth, peeled all they old material, Dicor away. Re set a overlapping later , tucked it in under luan board.. it fit tight. Glue secured. Put trim back on.. used toothpicks in holes then screwed it back into place with silicone dipped screws. Rolled tape with that heavyweight steel roller. Used a thin coat of Dicor over each overlap. Used the flexible silicone over top of trim and screws. First timer.. but it came out better than original repair. The scraper blade on DeWalt oscillator saved me a bunch of work. Didn’t maul my rubber roof
I saw a comment about shingling it properly, and now I'm wondering what the best width might be to use; maybe two 2" strips? I ordered the 3" endurabond, because it seems like a good amount to cover the seams (after I seal it).. Time will tell.
Never seen you actually clean the surface after old material removal. I remove all of the old material, scrub the area with dawn soap water in a hand sprayer then alcohol to ensure a super clean surface for a strong bond. I use ProFlex RV sealant and it sets fast and bonds super strong when the repair surface is very clean. Good video on the problem with factory butyl use and cheap lap sealant.
I'm sure I wiped it down. I don't prefer to use proflex on roof surfaces as it is not self leveling and even with tooling could still have voids and pockets for water to find. Thanks!
Clean well and remove anything that is loose, then just put a wider piece of tape or lap two pieces together making sure to shingle them correctly. Eternabond is awesome stuff but only laste about ten years.
So the decorative white split but the actual sealant was still intact? And in 10 years of Arizona sun? I’m goin out and getting me some eternabond now! Thanks for the tip
These guys don't like Eternabond because they loose thousands in re-calking work. Eternabond has been working for me for over 15 years. He states that the coating on Eternabond is PVC when in fact it is TPO.
Last spring I bought a small Canadian made "mini winnie" knockoff with an aluminum roof that had no less than five very distinct / different sealants that had been used on it previously. The outermost sealant on the cap seams had pealed up a solid three inches high...looked like something in the mastic family that underwent some type of chemical cross fire with the sealant below it. The same held true over the flashing of two of the crank open roof vents, the blackwater vent and the fridge vent. Mercifully the previous owner must have run out of the concoction before being able to slop it on the other roof mounted periphery. As the two crank open style roof vents are antiquated and their plastic covers brittle and cracked and the bathroom vent cover cracked and its fan non functional, it was an easy call to decide to remove ALL the old sealants and fixtures and replace with new. Channel locks and vice grips performed as anticipated during round one removing the most heinous globs and heavy strips of "God knows what". Round two saw both the putty knife and flat scraper bar enter the ring briefly but were clearly overmatched. Round three saw the challenger adjust to the various aspects of multiple layers of unknown sealants by employing a strategy incorporating speed and friction...a high speed grinder with a flapwheel attachment. Lol. Due to unexpected early southern California rains it was realized that the project was going to need to be continued through this coming spring. At least I only went as far as to remove all the excess sealants and had held off on actually pulling the fixtures. Given the reality of the situation I was forced into temporarily tarping the project and then removing it each time windows of work opportunities were presented. I did a little research and rather than buy a top of the line water resistant (cough-cough) Harbor Freight polypropylene tarp I found out that I could buy a used vinyl tarp that was a billboard in its previous life....so I did. Thicker, completely WATERPROOF, more durable, cheaper and repairable (easily). If your viewers need a super high quality tarp for cheap try doing a Google search under "used billboard vinyls". There are several companies offering these and their availability changes daily. The positive that came out of this rare early season weather event was that it gave me time to research not just the best fixtures for my situation but the best methods and products to complete my project as well. Based on that research and what my eyes witnessed on your video I really doubt that the sealant you had to remove and replace was Eternabond RV tape. There must be thirty seven Chinese factories making eternabond tape knockoffs. As for me, the only adhesive I will be using to replace all my roof mounted peripheries is Eternabond.
Sorry..but that crap wasn't eternabond. I have never seen eternabond do that. It was probably a repair by the owner with an eternabond knockoff. Every trailer ive seen done with Eternabond has lasted years and not ever cracked like that.
@@AZExpert then it was most certainly not Eternabond. Factory installers/builders do not use Eternabond. They use inferior products that need to be replaced and fail after 2 years or less.
@@showcasecharlie11 It's just thin TPO membrane with butyl putty adhesive not magic. I think it likely tore because RV's are flexible boxes and it stuck so well. Many manufacturers haved used it and continue to use it mostly on slide out boxes. They use it as flashing to direct water from joints, not a primary seal against water intrusion. Thanks!
@@AZExpert exactly. I believe aftermarket products can eliminate many of the issues caused by the factory. I am constantly repairing other people's roofs and vents, ect because they fail to regularly maintain or repair something properly. I've completely rebuilt several rvs from water damage.
@@showcasecharlie11 Water damage is the worst and my shop is in the desert...lol. I try to tell every customer that a RV roof has to be inspected at least once a year not matter the roof type or what sealant is used. In my mind, RV's by default want to fall apart and require constant vigilance to keep together. Thanks!
I'm replacing my TPO roof on our 2003 Newmar Dutch Star DP and it was suggested that instead of(or maybe in addition to) using all the dicor on the termination bars(which are up on the horizontal flat surface of the radius cap as well as the front and rear caps, I might want to use 4" eternabond or sika tape completely over the termination bars. I got the impression that's what they do when the factory replaces a TPO roof. I may have misunderstood but it does sound a lot easier than sealing over 500 screws and both edges on the termination bars. Love your channel, thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Its' the best part of RUclips.
Thank you very much for the encouragement! From my experience, repair/seal tapes don't perform well between surfaces that flex. Rolling the tape perfectly the entire length of the motor home twice without wrinkles and straight will take a great deal of care. I am not convinced that tape does well "brigding" the gap between the screwed down molding on the roof edge where the screws will be. Sealant from my viewpoint is easier and much easier to undo. Eternabond will likely work though. That being said, I do not like the method Newmar chose to build a roof with the termination molding. Thanks again!
@@AZExpert So, what would be a better way of doing the roof. I know some companies(and shops that replace roofs) extend the membrane over the sides, down the radius cap. I've seen some older Newmar gas coaches, like 1998-99, that was done like that. I don't know if I could do that as I'm not sure where the aluminum structure is. I'll probably just end up doing the Dicor thing over the term bar screws and both sides of the term bars. Like you said, it's a lot easier to pull up some bad looking Dicor than getting eternabond off. Lol Thanks
@@rickl6697 I think the metal radius is much more durable than a membrane so I would not extend the membrane over it. Truthfully at my shop we would just duplicate the factory's method. That being said, RV FlexArmor is not a bad option as far as upgrading a roof goes. I'm still just not sold on trapping all the vents and antennas and molding. But it might be something worth looking into.
😂😂😂😂 Me if I were the trailer owner. “Soooo, why didn’t we just put eternal bond tape back on? It lasted this long😂. Why pick something I might have to do again a year later?”
man in Australia i check my roof every season winter and summer , The sun kills it , Great job as usual ,, My son just brought a small travel trailer with a aluminum roof sealed with a 2 inch wide run of clear non acidic silicone then some muppet put eternabond tape over the silicon ,,,,YEP DIDNT GO DOWN WELL ! ,,,,
Obviously this was not installed properly. The key is to apply pressure into the crack of the seam with a steel roller. This will eliminate any gapping in the material. The key to eternabond is pressure. It can’t stick if no pressure is applied. 👍🏻
I bought my first travel trailer and for the most part in fairly good condition. I did purchase some roof sealant tape to temporarily patch both caps. I did notice some clear silicone on passenger side corners of the caps so definitely had some issues there no problem, re sealed those. Well see how the tape holds up but resealing the roof when weather permits, for now works for the mean time. Cool video. Thanks for sharing
Eternabond tape sure finds it's way into most roof repairs it seems, now factory builds. What is the world coming to? It does do wonders for creating work and job security for you. I sure am glad to know you and the best applications and how to's from your videos. Happy trails!
The PVC is Dry rotted and needs to be replaced completely, Once removed you can replace with a more sun resistant Tape like Beech Lane Eternabond Seal Tape. Must be completely cleaned off. your example has been gooped with sealer not replacing rotted PVC. Example found here - "Camper RV Roof Sealing Repair with Beech Lane Eternabond Seal Tape"
Love your posts. Gives additional perspective on what are numerous professional roof repair opinions. You admitted yourself in this presentation that you weren't certain why the RV manufacturers sealed roofs initially the way they did. In this presentation, it's not clear whether you're working on an entire fiberglass/gel coat cap and roof system or if the cap is fiberglass and the roof surface is rubber. I noticed that when you began to remove the old eternabond from the fiberglass cap side you mention how much easier it scrapes off. I have an all fiberglass roof system that came from the manufacturer with eternabond sealing, both fore and aft caps, and one mid seam. I feel certain that I would do better cleaning the old eternabond off since it's less difficult to remove from fiberglass. Then putting new eternabond down applying it better than what you put your finger through in this post and beading either side of the seam molding with dicor "self leveling." Then put a careful center bead over the top of the molding to prevent pooling of water on the seam. As you say, whatever one does should be checked and cleaned yearly for condition. At least in this way, one could gain the benefits of both sealing systems in what seems to be a contentious issue for RV owners and manufacturers to figure out.
eterna bond,is holding the roof on my mobile home and has for 5 years,last two years we have had 65 to 100 mph winds,as we live on a small mountain,this stuff is remarkable in adhesion,it sticks,we prep the surface with expensive solvents to clean it thoroughly,that's the ticket, is cleanliness,it makes the difference,this product is expensive and should be,it works,that picture that led me to this video looks like another product,i climbed up two weeks ago and looked at the roof,it was filthy but looks just like WHEN i put it on,sold on eterna bond,and will use it on my motorhome NEXT
@@AZExpert That's a good point although I watched a video earlier this evening showing how it's done. But I think different people have different skill sets so maybe not for everybody :-) I've used it before and it showed no degradation what so ever after two years (I sold the camper at that point). But I'm also not so impressed by conventional lap sealants. I've seen roof sealants applied at the factory degrade significantly (drying and cracking) within the first 6 months of ownership. I've also seen a new camper that after sitting on the dealer's lot for a year required a complete roof replacement due to water damage which indicates that even professionals have a hard time applying it properly. I once owned a truck camper with a metal roof and I applied two coats of Henry TropiCool which proved to be incredibly awesome. Not only did it seal completely, it lowered the exterior roof temperature by 32 degrees and the interior ceiling temperature by 13 degrees. It washed off easily and did not get black with dirt like EPDM and TPO roofs do.
Was the gap or channel due to improper installation? If it were applied and pressed so that the tape came in contact with the molding all the way around the gap would not have been there.
So what you're saying is factory-installed Eternabond lasted for 8-9 years despite being installed incorrectly (with gaps under the tape). That's one hell of an advertisement for Eternabond in my opinion.
I believe from what I saw that it appears to be NOT the tape but rather improper installation. It appears to have been applied without a heat gun to mold and bond the tape. Air was left under the tape. Also appears to have not been cleaned properly prior to installation. This is my opinion anyway. All other areas are sealed and bonded well; this also shows that my opinion may be something to consider.
How can you use the brand name Eternabond when you do not even know it was this product....there are others out there. Also you made it sound dicor is easy to clean off, and a 2 second removal....really, since when?
Eternabond has become the default desciption for all roof sealant tapes in this industry(like Kleenex or Levi's). And yes Dicor is tremendously easier to clean up than Eternabond. Thanks!
I 100% agree Roland that there are numerous copycat products of Eternabond brand, several of which do not have the quality performance of Eternabond. Unless one is 100% positive that the factory used the Eternabond product, I agree it’s dangerous to shame Eternabond with derogatory performance comments. If one doesn’t know for fact what brand it is, one should refer to it as perhaps what the author posed in his response as “roof sealant tape”. I’d also like to see demonstrated that Dicor (another great name brand product) is easy to clean off. It’s not!! It’s great however in doing what it’s designed to do. Otherwise, a good informative video from the author with one method of curing this common problem. Thanks
I am a firm believer in the pill and resell method utilizing the proper products. Sikaflex 715 on top and sikaflex 212 or 505 uv on the vertical trim. Get rid of the dicor products that breakdown. Polyurethane is where it's at
So you’re advocating for using a latex goop that you have to check and maintain every year over a permanent fix? If u ever had to replace eternabond, you peel back using heat gun leaving track of nasty gray goop that is the perfect site for new piece of eternabond
Well generally its acrylic based, but yes. I've never experienced any ease in removing the tape. I'd also say that the video shows it's not a permanent fix but is a permanent pain to deal with. If I advocate anything it's to inspect roofs annually and fix the cause of the leak, not put a bandaid on top. Thanks!
He’s judging the product based on how hard it is to remove instead of how good of a sealant it is. It’s obviously a better sealant if you look over some RUclips videos. It might be more difficult to remove but that has no bearing on what’s a better sealant. It’s more labor intensive to remove, it’s really not that bad with the right technique but the guy would lose money if people didn’t reapply doc or every year. On a note you should check your roof very often, but checking it doesn’t mean you have to replace if you eternabond it correctly.
I highly doubt that the manufacturer used the brand eternabond on your motorhome. There are other knock off brands and that's probably what was used, as RV manufacturers are known for going the cheapest route possible. At the end of the day, had they NOT used that sealant tape you'd have been making repairs less than 5 years into ownership with the level of exposure to the elements of the southwest. Just my opinion.
Artic fox of that era is known as a high quality manufacturer. I can't say it protected better than not having it. But I do know the repair would be much easier without the tape there. Thanks
The problem with eternabond is that the manufacture as with many other products on the market not just talking rv & motor home products but much of everything thats made today manufactures had reduced cut back on the products giving less but charging much more as like with eternabond I bought roll of that stuff few years ago & was very thick, today its made very very thin bout thickness of couple pieces of paper stacked together which is why eternabond fails today an absolute joke of many manufactures who push out their junk products today that will break down fail much sooner then later..
@@truckcampertraveler7369 I like sika flex and I use it as well till I discovered the RV Roof Man. It’s a engineer out in SoCal. Made a fireproof durable sealant and coating that I’ve used on 3 coaches and the stuff is amazing
Never used Eternabond always used dicor never had a problem yet and i have 4 trailers I think keeping eternabond handy for a small emergency repair would be a better option! Great Video! Cheers :)
What are you doing? Just clean any lose stuff off that "hard fiberglass cap" and 6" eternobond tape along the sides and then 6" along the top and overlappping the cap. Done.
I have a couple of RV’s one being a 2019 Jayco Eagle which has never moved from its initial spot and a few years in and the vent is already leaking… is there anything that you recommend that could go over the vents besides lap sealant? I have a bad leg so I can’t get up on my roofs all the time. Now I’m waiting for it to stop raining so I can fix this before it ruins the roof… luckily it’s a small leak I can manage for the next day or two until it dries up.
I have just bought a 1992 Australian made motor home and ALL the roofs sealant needs to be removed because it has not been stripped back just had sealant put over the top of the old sealant to the point it has impeded water run off. I need to find a local product because mailing costs ex U.S. at double sometimes triple the product Dicor is an example. .
That does happen for sure. Annual roof inspections are vital to the health of a RV roof. Once the joints have been re-sealed once, they should be "peeled and re-sealed." If cracks on joints are reoccuring, something is likely loose or wrong. Any sealant ontop either tape or self-leveling is a secondary/flashing seal to re-direct water and cap the hardware. This means it's not the primary seal keeping water out. Joints should be waterproof without the seal on top. Thanks!
If you have screw holes in your roof from something like an old TV antenna that you do not plan to replace, would it be a good solution to cover the old base plate holes with a piece of Eterna-bond and then cover over the Eterna-bond tape with a layer of dicor roof sealant? That way when the dicor dry-rots and/or fails, you still have the tape under it?
It really seems like anything you use will fail over time regardless thays just the way it is. But I'd say the eterna bond saved him from needing a while new deck and rubber maybe. That bead you used will be toast ina few years the trick is adding g second and even third barrier and like you said check it every dam year and fix it asap before water gets past the last barrier. Overall great video and great advice thankyou for taking the time to show these failures.
It really is vital to inspect these roofs annually. As far as the tape goes, I doubt anyone would be happy if a roofer put tape on some flashing or torn foam/flat roof of their house. It's akin to a carpenter using duct tape to fix a broken door.
If you think that because it was the manufacturer, it couldn't be install3d wrong, you really are ignorant. Every rv i have ever seen has improperly installed water lines that will inevitably leak because they are not installed correctly. Flex hose does not have the same size inner diameter as PEX, so when they use crimp clamps on the flex hose on a PEX fitting, that 1 millimeter difference is why they all leak at that connection. There is never adequate support provided to prevent lines from moving freely, and its a miniscule cost in parts to do a proper installation and they push their employees to rush as many units out as possible so every shortcut that can be taken, will be taken.
Yeah, you're right. Reapplying sealant every 6 months for the past 10 years would have been way better than a product that lasted almost 10 years with little to no maintenance. If the number one priority is to keep water out, why would you want something that has to be added to or replaced every 6 months superior? Serious question.
AZ Expert: Do you have a preferred rubber roof coating that holds up for several years? I have a 2000 Fleetwood Terry trailer with an Alpha roof that is past due for a recoat. I've considered ProGuard Liquid Roof that would require their primer on my alpha roof with a narrrow window to apply the liqiod roof and rvroofmagic which is touted as not needing a primer no matter what it is going on. Thanks.
My honest opinion is that I do not like like roof coatings. Even putting down perfectly, evey coating might crack, flake, peel or still leak or cause sealant not to stick correctly. Obviously, any Dicor or Alpha coating is good. I have seen good results with silicone rubber coatings which surprised me. Never use an oil-base/petroleum product on a rubber membrane though(ie Plas-T-Cote for metal roofs)...don't ask me how I know.
I don't mean to seem unnecessarily critical, because you do a lot of great work, but it often seems you don't like Eternabond because it does what it's supposed to - because it seals and is difficult to remove. But hey, keep up the great videos.
I think Eternabond is better in wet climates than hot. It's works great here in the pacific northwest and lasts nearly forever. Obviously it doesn't do as well in places like Az! BTW, I have a 2018 AF and my buddy has a 2015. Neither has any Eternabond anywhere. Just gallons of Dicor slopped all over. Frankly, AF builds junk these days.
I've heard that about the new stuff from Artic Fox owners too. I just have a lot of reservations about eternabond and other tapes because I end up having to remove and clean up the mess.Thanks!
how about problems with the auto leaving systems on travel trailer. I have one and it will automatically leave one time then the next time it will not. The dealer ship can not figure what is going on with it. The roof has came apart twice now and is in for repairs again.
Please do not get me started with automatic leveling systems. Usually, the problem is down to voltage, loose grounds, or bad components in the controller itself. What type of system is it?
It is a LCI Ground Control® TT. It will work great then it will not. It will work then you can retract and run it again and it will not work. And the trailer did not move
Hopefully you find this comment soon. What is your recommendation for re-sealing corners on a aluminum sided camp trailer. Was thinking 1.5” eternabond under the cap. Typical butyl under the cab and possibly dicor along the entire edge? Wanting to re seal the entire trailer. Thanks!
10 year Eternabond tape that wasn’t leaking, and the acrylic fix “Should last a year” Probably could have cleaned it with a rag & alcohol & slapped another roll of Eternabond on it and called it good till 2034.
The tape really wasn't installed properly. You should not leave an air gap like there is there. It should have been pressed down tightly, it's pressure activated and must make contact with a surface to work properly.
The tape was installed properly by the factory on a new clean roof. This is just what happens. All sealants fail, this tape is just a huge mess after it fails. Thanks!
My folks Winnebago has this strange white rubber feel roof. I can feel that in some areas it is lifting. Is that a bad thing or it's just a rubber cover over the fibreglass body? How long do the rubber covers last under constant weather?
It's possible you are describing a roof that has been coated with a spray on covering and the fiberglass underneath is loose. As long as the radius edges stay tucked and sealed in, it should be fine. Thanks!
Okay let see you started giving ETERNABOND a bad review ,later you said you think it might be eternabond. You look like your in the camper business so if you are why not ck with builder of camper to see what they used. I think that would be fair.
I have removed eterabond with a heat gun and worked good. That might help some of your whining. The camping industy bares some of this responsibility NO puddling of watering should be tolerated in their design...be creative engineers. Yes i am anal, i will put the smallest of 3M 5200 beading at the edge of eternabond to detour puddling gives me 3 years of extra watering proofing. Gaps under eternabond are not good, try not to allow. Even to the point of using relief cuts then bond and another piece on top. A round rubber wheel (designed like a sceen roller) would be nice for eterabond to sell to push into corners for 1st bond. Two people helps to put tape down cleaner and straighter also.
How do you insure you don’t cut through the roof material. And your talking 7+ years in the desert like conditions??? Nothing will last in those conditions. Bottom line if you want to save your roof from damage you need keep a barrier (ie. Cover) on it when not in use, period.
Well, I suppose this adds to the notion that Eternabond is inappropriately named as it's anything but eternal. I found it far better, when it comes to the permanent fix, to use James Bond.
Repair tapes do have their uses and are great for tears and temporary repairs. I strongly doubt anyone would use the product on the roof of their actual house for holes or flashing.
If the eternabond lasted 8 years from factory, that is WAY longer than Dycor would ever last from factory. I check my RV every year for cracks on the roof and around windows and keep the sealant clean as well. Eternabond seems to cause a mess though, but wonder if the newer eternabond has improved UV protection? Great video. Cheers
Checking every year is absolutely the best idea so matter the sealant. I would argue that the dicor on the roof outlasted the eternabond though. Thanks!
Why not just cut out the failed tape, clean properly, and reapply another layer of Eternabond tape? You must admit that Eternabond lasts much, much longer than just a year or two for Dicor Lap Sealant.
I do not have to admit that, I am very aware that tape is a bad choice for a lap sealant and should be limited to tears in membranes or temporary repairs.
that doesnt look likw eternabond to me it looks like a cheap knockoff I BET THATS WHAT IT IS it also looks like you promoting another product i am not convinced you are being truthfull
I put extra eternabond on all my seals and that was almost 6 years ago and its standing up great. Wouldn't surprise me if it lasted another 6 years sooooo yea lol beings that you probably get paid by the hour it doesn't Surprise me you'd recommend dicor instead, you know cuz its very time consuming to replace 😂
Summary: BOTH the Eternabond (maybe - no proof of brand) and Dicor (maybe - no proof of brand) failed after 6+ years of sitting in the Arizona sun. Since both Enternabond and Dicor are well known brand names with long histories of success and durability, I'm going to guess that what was installed is neither. Either way, I can't agree that fixing the tape was "more difficult" than with the caulking as both suck in their own way. Now, most shops would simply goop more caulk over the failed seams (and likely the tape as well) and send the customer on his way, but from your statements, you didn't do that. GOOD JOB THERE...but having experience in removing both Eternabond (with a heat gun) and Dicor (with a multi-tool), I'll take the heat gun every time. That said, the owners clearly didn't care for their roof properly in the first place or they would have caught indications long ago.
I'll look into the premier pro. Dicor can be a good product. My biggest concern is that roof components do have to be removed at times and I want to make sure they can without damaging the roof. Thanks!
This does not look to be a failure of product, rather a failure of installation of it. The application of eternabond should be done with a roller so there are no "gaps". That being said, if after 10 years in the desert that is the extent of the damage to that tape. I'd call that a win. Tell me what dicor looks like in 10 years of desert sun.
Amen
I agree. I was told that my roof needs t b resealed with silastic every 2 yrs and quoted AU $1200! when i asked them about the tape they said, It wont last! Well neither does silicon. Give me strength
Amen no rv roof last in heavy rain or dry hot climate and 10 years that’s the failure
Sounds to me eterna bond is a 5-8 yr fix while these robbers of rv roof repairs are *every year get the F out of here
More then correct
I read that the silicone lasts longer if it's high in solids *plastic*.. I guess you also get what you pay for, in a product (sometimes)..
Glad I am having perfect results with my Eternabond seal. 8 years on a new TPO roof and is just as new looking as the day we put it on. Could be the ZEP Floor Polish Wet look I also coated it with at the same time. Roof looks just as good as the day it was installed. And it is stored outside. 2006 Everest 344j.
I’m getting ready to buy some Eternabond for all of my roof seals. I know that wasn’t the intent of your video, but lasting that long in extreme heat and sun before needing repair is a major selling point for me. If I can get 5 years out of it in the Carolinas’ weather before needing replacement then I’ll be a happy camper. Nice work on the video, BTW, even though I somewhat disagree with your conclusion.
it does work, I just recommend making sure the joints are secure first. Thanks!
Exactly better than that self leveling lap sealing that last a year
@@mikehopkins7384 you aren’t using the right stuff then.
That factory "tape" was not applied correctly. It was stretched over the contours instead of being applied to follow the shape of the material underneath. The Eternabond now cannot expand-contract, it starts tearing, and the cracks hold water. Also, any roofer will tell people that low spots in the construction should never exist, or be properly addressed when the roof is installed. The environment HAS to be taken into consideration with any construction. I assume that in the desert, most materials will dry and crack faster than in a humid environment.
Stay gold.
It sounds like a good idea is to use sealant and smooth it down flat, so that the eternabond will not have a low spot when you put it over-top.
Eternabond did its job as far as I am concerned, the failure is more on the design and construction method used by Artic Fox. You seem to have an axe to grind with Eternabond, it's a great product and I wouldn't even dream of using anything else on my RV. No sealant would have performed better under the circumstances.
Why would you believe the factory installed it correctly. I know of brand new trailers leaking. Looks pretty good for how many years in the desert?
Twelve years ago I covered the front and rear cap seams with Eternabond over Dicor, I sealed the edges with 3M 5200 (would have used the 5200 instead of Dicor on the caps, but dealer had already put fresh Dicor there). No problems in all these years, no maintenance at all, and that is with winters in AZ and hot summers at home. My Eternabond looks nothing like that, it looks the same as the day I applied it.
That's great! I also see untouched 20+ year old dicor sealant and membranes in Arizona with no problems either quite regularly.
I've got to say, the eternabond seems to have held up pretty well and yes I do think you've got a vendetta against it.
In northern climate ( that is : NO Arizona sun !!!), EternaBond tape works great and lasts a long time without cracking...Love it...
it does work great when it works.
So, in reality, you don't even know for sure that it was Eturnerbond tape?
So, again its improper installation of the tape as it wasn't pressed into the moulding curve causing a stress point/void for failure. Tape is difficult to lay into that small curve due to its thickness and quick adhesion.
Dicor would have been preferred originally.
I don't know why Aritc Fox decided to do it. Many times manufactures will try a new technique and see if it solves or causes problems.
Yeah, I'd rather pay for a roll of eternabond and have it last 10 years or more than to have to keep buying tubes of self-leveling sealant and have to check every single year.
I guess that's your choice. But I'd still advise to check your roof annually at a minimum. Thanks
@@AZExpert Ziollo RV Flex Repair 100% Silicone RV Roof Sealant
Whats your opinion of using this on a rubber roof. I have a 2010 coachmen catalina 17rd that needs preventive maintenance but I'm undecided what material is the best to use. So many different products and everyone has good things to say about them.
“Factory Installed” says it all!!!
LOL
Love Your Video tutorials. Awesome work! Just find it interesting you never use any heat to soften the sealants you remove. Nor do I ever see you sharpen a hard plastic putty knife to do the work around hard items, one might benefit from not scratching? Arizona for 9 years plus on a thin layer if eterna bonds top layer is pretty good. As soon as it started to crack, a owner should of found ya, for a reseal. If not sooner. As with all things created with stock value in mind, the parts of RVs assembled when clean and new, doesn't change the fact that the installer was rushed, did not have all the suggestable tools available, and is constantly told faster was better for the company.
I do “do that”.
I’m on our travel trailer roof at least 3-6 times a year, every year.
I use a heat gun and plastic scrapers to scrape off the old self leveling lap sealant and then clean the area with alcohol, and apply new sealant
This year I actually power washed the roof and “painted” on new membrane sealant.
Our roof is 18 years old and does not leak. I have plans to replace the membrane either next summer or the next year after that 24-25 time frame.
I’ve got to find a place I can do the work at, preferably some place covered because we do get quite a few bad thunderstorms every year.
I also want to replace the black corrugated plastic cover on the bottom of the trailer and the insulation. I really want to insulate our camper as much as possible to live in - in the winter. But I’m afraid it might not be plausible. We drop below zero around here sometimes for weeks at a time. I’d hate to freeze to death lol
What do you think is the best insulation? Most rv's are perobably just stuffed with styrofoam.. I want to experiment with cellulose insulation. I wonder if there are cellulose panels yet, or do I have to invent them?..
Nothing lasts forever. How long do you think this band aid lasted?
It’s my understanding there should have been sealant under the Eternabond and the sealant doesn’t weather being covered with the Eternabond. You just need to apply after the sealant has cured two months.
Thanks for info. I just did use eternabond, Dicor and GE 10 year silicone to re repair a grudge in my RV roof from a huge branch. It was an area surround a vent pipe too. 10 inches along the edge. Took the trim/rain gutter back. Used an oscillating scraper.. no teeth, peeled all they old material, Dicor away. Re set a overlapping later , tucked it in under luan board.. it fit tight. Glue secured. Put trim back on.. used toothpicks in holes then screwed it back into place with silicone dipped screws. Rolled tape with that heavyweight steel roller. Used a thin coat of Dicor over each overlap. Used the flexible silicone over top of trim and screws. First timer.. but it came out better than original repair. The scraper blade on DeWalt oscillator saved me a bunch of work. Didn’t maul my rubber roof
That was a gouge .
Also probably layer, not later.
I believe the tech at the factory didn't roll the Eternabond into the surface with a roller; which is there is a gap.
As per Eternabond' it can be used for permanent repairs AND resealing as an alternative to Dicor or other sealants. It is NOT just for patch repairs.
I disagree, this is my advice and experience
I saw a comment about shingling it properly, and now I'm wondering what the best width might be to use; maybe two 2" strips? I ordered the 3" endurabond, because it seems like a good amount to cover the seams (after I seal it).. Time will tell.
Learning from each old or new episode. In the market, preparing and planning what sort of RV owner/traveler I will be. Thx man
Thanks for watching!
Never seen you actually clean the surface after old material removal. I remove all of the old material, scrub the area with dawn soap water in a hand sprayer then alcohol to ensure a super clean surface for a strong bond. I use ProFlex RV sealant and it sets fast and bonds super strong when the repair surface is very clean. Good video on the problem with factory butyl use and cheap lap sealant.
I'm sure I wiped it down. I don't prefer to use proflex on roof surfaces as it is not self leveling and even with tooling could still have voids and pockets for water to find. Thanks!
Clean well and remove anything that is loose, then just put a wider piece of tape or lap two pieces together making sure to shingle them correctly. Eternabond is awesome stuff but only laste about ten years.
So the decorative white split but the actual sealant was still intact? And in 10 years of Arizona sun? I’m goin out and getting me some eternabond now! Thanks for the tip
No. The white is not decorative and the sealant tore also. Thanks.
Agree I may have to go get some. Great review
Couldnt you put down a bead of sealant in that chanel then put the eternabond over it?
@@davehaag8175 No , sealant will not stick to butyl tape
10 yrs out of any product on something that is MOVING should be considered GREAT.
These guys don't like Eternabond because they loose thousands in re-calking work. Eternabond has been working for me for over 15 years. He states that the coating on Eternabond is PVC when in fact it is TPO.
The RV tape from the factory is only supposed to last as long as one day past the warranty
Last spring I bought a small Canadian made "mini winnie" knockoff with an aluminum roof that had no less than five very distinct / different sealants that had been used on it previously. The outermost sealant on the cap seams had pealed up a solid three inches high...looked like something in the mastic family that underwent some type of chemical cross fire with the sealant below it. The same held true over the flashing of two of the crank open roof vents, the blackwater vent and the fridge vent. Mercifully the previous owner must have run out of the concoction before being able to slop it on the other roof mounted periphery. As the two crank open style roof vents are antiquated and their plastic covers brittle and cracked and the bathroom vent cover cracked and its fan non functional, it was an easy call to decide to remove ALL the old sealants and fixtures and replace with new. Channel locks and vice grips performed as anticipated during round one removing the most heinous globs and heavy strips of "God knows what". Round two saw both the putty knife and flat scraper bar enter the ring briefly but were clearly overmatched. Round three saw the challenger adjust to the various aspects of multiple layers of unknown sealants by employing a strategy incorporating speed and friction...a high speed grinder with a flapwheel attachment. Lol. Due to unexpected early southern California rains it was realized that the project was going to need to be continued through this coming spring. At least I only went as far as to remove all the excess sealants and had held off on actually pulling the fixtures. Given the reality of the situation I was forced into temporarily tarping the project and then removing it each time windows of work opportunities were presented. I did a little research and rather than buy a top of the line water resistant (cough-cough) Harbor Freight polypropylene tarp I found out that I could buy a used vinyl tarp that was a billboard in its previous life....so I did. Thicker, completely WATERPROOF, more durable, cheaper and repairable (easily). If your viewers need a super high quality tarp for cheap try doing a Google search under "used billboard vinyls". There are several companies offering these and their availability changes daily. The positive that came out of this rare early season weather event was that it gave me time to research not just the best fixtures for my situation but the best methods and products to complete my project as well.
Based on that research and what my eyes witnessed on your video I really doubt that the sealant you had to remove and replace was Eternabond RV tape. There must be thirty seven Chinese factories making eternabond tape knockoffs. As for me, the only adhesive I will be using to replace all my roof mounted peripheries is Eternabond.
I'm glad you enjoy eternabond. I do not on the service side
Thats becauce the stuff you use keeps you in business because its junk@@AZExpert
I think he got the endurabond instead of eternabond.. And you are ready to make a video with that long script.. Bravo!
Sorry..but that crap wasn't eternabond. I have never seen eternabond do that. It was probably a repair by the owner with an eternabond knockoff. Every trailer ive seen done with Eternabond has lasted years and not ever cracked like that.
It was installed at the factory when it was built.
@@AZExpert then it was most certainly not Eternabond. Factory installers/builders do not use Eternabond. They use inferior products that need to be replaced and fail after 2 years or less.
@@showcasecharlie11 It's just thin TPO membrane with butyl putty adhesive not magic. I think it likely tore because RV's are flexible boxes and it stuck so well. Many manufacturers haved used it and continue to use it mostly on slide out boxes. They use it as flashing to direct water from joints, not a primary seal against water intrusion. Thanks!
@@AZExpert exactly. I believe aftermarket products can eliminate many of the issues caused by the factory. I am constantly repairing other people's roofs and vents, ect because they fail to regularly maintain or repair something properly. I've completely rebuilt several rvs from water damage.
@@showcasecharlie11 Water damage is the worst and my shop is in the desert...lol. I try to tell every customer that a RV roof has to be inspected at least once a year not matter the roof type or what sealant is used. In my mind, RV's by default want to fall apart and require constant vigilance to keep together. Thanks!
I'm replacing my TPO roof on our 2003 Newmar Dutch Star DP and it was suggested that instead of(or maybe in addition to) using all the dicor on the termination bars(which are up on the horizontal flat surface of the radius cap as well as the front and rear caps, I might want to use 4" eternabond or sika tape completely over the termination bars. I got the impression that's what they do when the factory replaces a TPO roof. I may have misunderstood but it does sound a lot easier than sealing over 500 screws and both edges on the termination bars. Love your channel, thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise. Its' the best part of RUclips.
Thank you very much for the encouragement! From my experience, repair/seal tapes don't perform well between surfaces that flex. Rolling the tape perfectly the entire length of the motor home twice without wrinkles and straight will take a great deal of care. I am not convinced that tape does well "brigding" the gap between the screwed down molding on the roof edge where the screws will be. Sealant from my viewpoint is easier and much easier to undo. Eternabond will likely work though. That being said, I do not like the method Newmar chose to build a roof with the termination molding. Thanks again!
@@AZExpert So, what would be a better way of doing the roof. I know some companies(and shops that replace roofs) extend the membrane over the sides, down the radius cap. I've seen some older Newmar gas coaches, like 1998-99, that was done like that. I don't know if I could do that as I'm not sure where the aluminum structure is. I'll probably just end up doing the Dicor thing over the term bar screws and both sides of the term bars. Like you said, it's a lot easier to pull up some bad looking Dicor than getting eternabond off. Lol Thanks
@@rickl6697 I think the metal radius is much more durable than a membrane so I would not extend the membrane over it. Truthfully at my shop we would just duplicate the factory's method. That being said, RV FlexArmor is not a bad option as far as upgrading a roof goes. I'm still just not sold on trapping all the vents and antennas and molding. But it might be something worth looking into.
😂😂😂😂 Me if I were the trailer owner. “Soooo, why didn’t we just put eternal bond tape back on? It lasted this long😂. Why pick something I might have to do again a year later?”
It's an option, not one I would take but it might work.
man in Australia i check my roof every season winter and summer , The sun kills it , Great job as usual ,, My son just brought a small travel trailer with a aluminum roof sealed with a 2 inch wide run of clear non acidic silicone then some muppet put eternabond tape over the silicon ,,,,YEP DIDNT GO DOWN WELL ! ,,,,
I definitely agree with you on routine inspections. Did the tape clean up pretty well as it likely didnt stick well to the sealant?
Obviously this was not installed properly.
The key is to apply pressure into the crack of the seam with a steel roller.
This will eliminate any gapping in the material. The key to eternabond is pressure.
It can’t stick if no pressure is applied. 👍🏻
obviously
I bought my first travel trailer and for the most part in fairly good condition. I did purchase some roof sealant tape to temporarily patch both caps. I did notice some clear silicone on passenger side corners of the caps so definitely had some issues there no problem, re sealed those. Well see how the tape holds up but resealing the roof when weather permits, for now works for the mean time. Cool video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you
Eternabond tape sure finds it's way into most roof repairs it seems, now factory builds. What is the world coming to? It does do wonders for creating work and job security for you. I sure am glad to know you and the best applications and how to's from your videos. Happy trails!
Thanks for watching!! :)
4:59 Why run a bead of caulk on a solid piece of metal or plastic? Unless it is cracked somewhere.
Excellent, like your presentation and attitude along with your personality and information. Great Job, Keep it up 👍.
Thank you for the kind words and encouragement, like most everyone, I don't enjoy my own voice.
@@AZExpert You have an excellent teaching voice! Not a showy expelative narrative. Absolutely thankful of all your work, showing us all as you go.
The PVC is Dry rotted and needs to be replaced completely, Once removed you can replace with a more sun resistant Tape like Beech Lane Eternabond Seal Tape. Must be completely cleaned off. your example has been gooped with sealer not replacing rotted PVC. Example found here - "Camper RV Roof Sealing Repair with Beech Lane Eternabond Seal Tape"
Love your posts. Gives additional perspective on what are numerous professional roof repair opinions. You admitted yourself in this presentation that you weren't certain why the RV manufacturers sealed roofs initially the way they did. In this presentation, it's not clear whether you're working on an entire fiberglass/gel coat cap and roof system or if the cap is fiberglass and the roof surface is rubber. I noticed that when you began to remove the old eternabond from the fiberglass cap side you mention how much easier it scrapes off. I have an all fiberglass roof system that came from the manufacturer with eternabond sealing, both fore and aft caps, and one mid seam. I feel certain that I would do better cleaning the old eternabond off since it's less difficult to remove from fiberglass. Then putting new eternabond down applying it better than what you put your finger through in this post and beading either side of the seam molding with dicor "self leveling." Then put a careful center bead over the top of the molding to prevent pooling of water on the seam. As you say, whatever one does should be checked and cleaned yearly for condition. At least in this way, one could gain the benefits of both sealing systems in what seems to be a contentious issue for RV owners and manufacturers to figure out.
This was on a rubber roof where it met the cap. Your method would of course work too. Thanks!
eterna bond,is holding the roof on my mobile home and has for 5 years,last two years we have had 65 to 100 mph winds,as we live on a small mountain,this stuff is remarkable in adhesion,it sticks,we prep the surface with expensive solvents to clean it thoroughly,that's the ticket, is cleanliness,it makes the difference,this product is expensive and should be,it works,that picture that led me to this video looks like another product,i climbed up two weeks ago and looked at the roof,it was filthy but looks just like WHEN i put it on,sold on eterna bond,and will use it on my motorhome NEXT
Glad you had a good experience!
Eternabond recommends using a heat gun to remove it. Makes removal easier than Dicor removal.
Heat guns require some caution around a rubber membrane to prevent damage...especially and older worn membrane. Thanks!
@@AZExpert That's a good point although I watched a video earlier this evening showing how it's done. But I think different people have different skill sets so maybe not for everybody :-) I've used it before and it showed no degradation what so ever after two years (I sold the camper at that point). But I'm also not so impressed by conventional lap sealants. I've seen roof sealants applied at the factory degrade significantly (drying and cracking) within the first 6 months of ownership. I've also seen a new camper that after sitting on the dealer's lot for a year required a complete roof replacement due to water damage which indicates that even professionals have a hard time applying it properly. I once owned a truck camper with a metal roof and I applied two coats of Henry TropiCool which proved to be incredibly awesome. Not only did it seal completely, it lowered the exterior roof temperature by 32 degrees and the interior ceiling temperature by 13 degrees. It washed off easily and did not get black with dirt like EPDM and TPO roofs do.
Was the gap or channel due to improper installation? If it were applied and pressed so that the tape came in contact with the molding all the way around the gap would not have been there.
So what you're saying is factory-installed Eternabond lasted for 8-9 years despite being installed incorrectly (with gaps under the tape). That's one hell of an advertisement for Eternabond in my opinion.
I believe from what I saw that it appears to be NOT the tape but rather improper installation. It appears to have been applied without a heat gun to mold and bond the tape. Air was left under the tape. Also appears to have not been cleaned properly prior to installation. This is my opinion anyway. All other areas are sealed and bonded well; this also shows that my opinion may be something to consider.
How can you use the brand name Eternabond when you do not even know it was this product....there are others out there. Also you made it sound dicor is easy to clean off, and a 2 second removal....really, since when?
Eternabond has become the default desciption for all roof sealant tapes in this industry(like Kleenex or Levi's). And yes Dicor is tremendously easier to clean up than Eternabond. Thanks!
I 100% agree Roland that there are numerous copycat products of Eternabond brand, several of which do not have the quality performance of Eternabond.
Unless one is 100% positive that the factory used the Eternabond product, I agree it’s dangerous to shame Eternabond with derogatory performance comments. If one doesn’t know for fact what brand it is, one should refer to it as perhaps what the author posed in his response as “roof sealant tape”.
I’d also like to see demonstrated that Dicor (another great name brand product) is easy to clean off. It’s not!! It’s great however in doing what it’s designed to do.
Otherwise, a good informative video from the author with one method of curing this common problem. Thanks
I am a firm believer in the pill and resell method utilizing the proper products. Sikaflex 715 on top and sikaflex 212 or 505 uv on the vertical trim. Get rid of the dicor products that breakdown. Polyurethane is where it's at
So you’re advocating for using a latex goop that you have to check and maintain every year over a permanent fix?
If u ever had to replace eternabond, you peel back using heat gun leaving track of nasty gray goop that is the perfect site for new piece of eternabond
Well generally its acrylic based, but yes. I've never experienced any ease in removing the tape. I'd also say that the video shows it's not a permanent fix but is a permanent pain to deal with. If I advocate anything it's to inspect roofs annually and fix the cause of the leak, not put a bandaid on top. Thanks!
He’s judging the product based on how hard it is to remove instead of how good of a sealant it is. It’s obviously a better sealant if you look over some RUclips videos. It might be more difficult to remove but that has no bearing on what’s a better sealant. It’s more labor intensive to remove, it’s really not that bad with the right technique but the guy would lose money if people didn’t reapply doc or every year. On a note you should check your roof very often, but checking it doesn’t mean you have to replace if you eternabond it correctly.
I guess then no tape on the sides to the gutter or over any areas where cap meets the rubber roof?
I highly doubt that the manufacturer used the brand eternabond on your motorhome. There are other knock off brands and that's probably what was used, as RV manufacturers are known for going the cheapest route possible. At the end of the day, had they NOT used that sealant tape you'd have been making repairs less than 5 years into ownership with the level of exposure to the elements of the southwest. Just my opinion.
Artic fox of that era is known as a high quality manufacturer. I can't say it protected better than not having it. But I do know the repair would be much easier without the tape there. Thanks
I'm AM going to do THAT, right now!
Sounds good.
The problem with eternabond is that the manufacture as with many other products on the market not just talking rv & motor home products but much of everything thats made today manufactures had reduced cut back on the products giving less but charging much more as like with eternabond I bought roll of that stuff few years ago & was very thick, today its made very very thin bout thickness of couple pieces of paper stacked together which is why eternabond fails today an absolute joke of many manufactures who push out their junk products today that will break down fail much sooner then later..
Thanks for watching!
Dynaflex 230 with elastomeric will work 3.95 at walmart and clean and seal every year
Awesome
its a product that is very unforgiving, use 5200 or flexseal instead to seal your penetrations and flashed areas.
That didn't even look like eternabond? That was way to easy to peel off for eternabond?
Use thru the roof sealer for the houses it seals it and then elastomeric the whole thing
Thanks
I don’t get it. 20 bucks a year or 60 and the tape lasted from 2007-2019?
I couldn't say how long it lasted. Either way, RV roofs require annual inspections, this had gone 7+ years from what I was told. Thanks!
@@AZExpert why do they ? I use sikaflex its good for 15 years dicore is the cash cow for rv owners
@@truckcampertraveler7369 I like sika flex and I use it as well till I discovered the RV Roof Man. It’s a engineer out in SoCal. Made a fireproof durable sealant and coating that I’ve used on 3 coaches and the stuff is amazing
@@JahRootsRadio thank you !
Never used Eternabond always used dicor never had a problem yet and i have 4 trailers I think keeping eternabond handy for a small emergency repair would be a better option! Great Video! Cheers :)
This is 100% my viewpoint. Thank you for making me feel a little less insane! :)
Excellent video
Thanks!
What are you doing? Just clean any lose stuff off that "hard fiberglass cap" and 6" eternobond tape along the sides and then 6" along the top and overlappping the cap. Done.
I'm doing a good job is what I'm doing.
I have a couple of RV’s one being a 2019 Jayco Eagle which has never moved from its initial spot and a few years in and the vent is already leaking… is there anything that you recommend that could go over the vents besides lap sealant? I have a bad leg so I can’t get up on my roofs all the time. Now I’m waiting for it to stop raining so I can fix this before it ruins the roof… luckily it’s a small leak I can manage for the next day or two until it dries up.
I have just bought a 1992 Australian made motor home and ALL the roofs sealant needs to be removed because it has not been stripped back just had sealant put over the top of the old sealant to the point it has impeded water run off. I need to find a local product because mailing costs ex U.S. at double sometimes triple the product Dicor is an example.
.
That does happen for sure. Annual roof inspections are vital to the health of a RV roof. Once the joints have been re-sealed once, they should be "peeled and re-sealed." If cracks on joints are reoccuring, something is likely loose or wrong. Any sealant ontop either tape or self-leveling is a secondary/flashing seal to re-direct water and cap the hardware. This means it's not the primary seal keeping water out. Joints should be waterproof without the seal on top. Thanks!
There use to be a product tape that had a layer of aluminum that was thick enough it didn’t break down
Thanks for watching! :)
If you have screw holes in your roof from something like an old TV antenna that you do not plan to replace, would it be a good solution to cover the old base plate holes with a piece of Eterna-bond and then cover over the Eterna-bond tape with a layer of dicor roof sealant? That way when the dicor dry-rots and/or fails, you still have the tape under it?
It really seems like anything you use will fail over time regardless thays just the way it is. But I'd say the eterna bond saved him from needing a while new deck and rubber maybe. That bead you used will be toast ina few years the trick is adding g second and even third barrier and like you said check it every dam year and fix it asap before water gets past the last barrier. Overall great video and great advice thankyou for taking the time to show these failures.
It really is vital to inspect these roofs annually. As far as the tape goes, I doubt anyone would be happy if a roofer put tape on some flashing or torn foam/flat roof of their house. It's akin to a carpenter using duct tape to fix a broken door.
SIMPLE: We just DO it, 'cause we are either busy, don't have the time, money, lazy, getting old or don't like climbing up on the roof.
If you think that because it was the manufacturer, it couldn't be install3d wrong, you really are ignorant. Every rv i have ever seen has improperly installed water lines that will inevitably leak because they are not installed correctly. Flex hose does not have the same size inner diameter as PEX, so when they use crimp clamps on the flex hose on a PEX fitting, that 1 millimeter difference is why they all leak at that connection. There is never adequate support provided to prevent lines from moving freely, and its a miniscule cost in parts to do a proper installation and they push their employees to rush as many units out as possible so every shortcut that can be taken, will be taken.
Yeah, you're right. Reapplying sealant every 6 months for the past 10 years would have been way better than a product that lasted almost 10 years with little to no maintenance. If the number one priority is to keep water out, why would you want something that has to be added to or replaced every 6 months superior? Serious question.
you shouldn't be reapplying sealant every 6 months but you should be inspecting every 6 months, serious answer.
AZ Expert: Do you have a preferred rubber roof coating that holds up for several years? I have a 2000 Fleetwood Terry trailer with an Alpha roof that is past due for a recoat. I've considered ProGuard Liquid Roof that would require their primer on my alpha roof with a narrrow window to apply the liqiod roof and rvroofmagic which is touted as not needing a primer no matter what it is going on. Thanks.
My honest opinion is that I do not like like roof coatings. Even putting down perfectly, evey coating might crack, flake, peel or still leak or cause sealant not to stick correctly. Obviously, any Dicor or Alpha coating is good. I have seen good results with silicone rubber coatings which surprised me. Never use an oil-base/petroleum product on a rubber membrane though(ie Plas-T-Cote for metal roofs)...don't ask me how I know.
I don't mean to seem unnecessarily critical, because you do a lot of great work, but it often seems you don't like Eternabond because it does what it's supposed to - because it seals and is difficult to remove. But hey, keep up the great videos.
It fails and it is difficult to remove to make repairs.
Good video what's best for tpu roof
Have you used Dicor tape?
I keep a roll of it in our motorhome
Roof repair tape is absolutely great for emergencies. Thanks!
I think Eternabond is better in wet climates than hot. It's works great here in the pacific northwest and lasts nearly forever. Obviously it doesn't do as well in places like Az!
BTW, I have a 2018 AF and my buddy has a 2015. Neither has any Eternabond anywhere. Just gallons of Dicor slopped all over.
Frankly, AF builds junk these days.
I've heard that about the new stuff from Artic Fox owners too. I just have a lot of reservations about eternabond and other tapes because I end up having to remove and clean up the mess.Thanks!
how about problems with the auto leaving systems on travel trailer. I have one and it will automatically leave one time then the next time it will not. The dealer ship can not figure what is going on with it. The roof has came apart twice now and is in for repairs again.
Please do not get me started with automatic leveling systems. Usually, the problem is down to voltage, loose grounds, or bad components in the controller itself. What type of system is it?
It is a LCI Ground Control® TT. It will work great then it will not. It will work then you can retract and run it again and it will not work. And the trailer did not move
can I put it on all my roof seems of camper
Hopefully you find this comment soon. What is your recommendation for re-sealing corners on a aluminum sided camp trailer. Was thinking 1.5” eternabond under the cap. Typical butyl under the cab and possibly dicor along the entire edge? Wanting to re seal the entire trailer. Thanks!
Is it eternabond for sure or some other tape?
Its definitely eternabond
10 year Eternabond tape that wasn’t leaking, and the acrylic fix “Should last a year”
Probably could have cleaned it with a rag & alcohol & slapped another roll of Eternabond on it and called it good till 2034.
The tape really wasn't installed properly. You should not leave an air gap like there is there. It should have been pressed down tightly, it's pressure activated and must make contact with a surface to work properly.
The tape was installed properly by the factory on a new clean roof. This is just what happens. All sealants fail, this tape is just a huge mess after it fails. Thanks!
AZ Expert I see. I’m in AZ as well and just haven’t seen the same on mine. Thanks!
@@AZExpert you can't say it was installed properly just because the factory did it. Eternabond doesn't recommend bridging gaps.
Definitely improper installation. I’ll bet that gap was there from the beginning.
Thanks for watching!
I have a similar situation and they use the same tape
what do you think about 3M 5,200. ?
My folks Winnebago has this strange white rubber feel roof. I can feel that in some areas it is lifting. Is that a bad thing or it's just a rubber cover over the fibreglass body? How long do the rubber covers last under constant weather?
It's possible you are describing a roof that has been coated with a spray on covering and the fiberglass underneath is loose. As long as the radius edges stay tucked and sealed in, it should be fine. Thanks!
Okay let see you started giving ETERNABOND a bad review ,later you said you think it might be eternabond. You look like your in the camper business so if you are why not ck with builder of camper to see what they used. I think that would be fair.
I have removed eterabond with a heat gun and worked good. That might help some of your whining. The camping industy bares some of this responsibility NO puddling of watering should be tolerated in their design...be creative engineers. Yes i am anal, i will put the smallest of 3M 5200 beading at the edge of eternabond to detour puddling gives me 3 years of extra watering proofing. Gaps under eternabond are not good, try not to allow. Even to the point of using relief cuts then bond and another piece on top. A round rubber wheel (designed like a sceen roller) would be nice for eterabond to sell to push into corners for 1st bond. Two people helps to put tape down cleaner and straighter also.
Thanks for the tips
5200 is not uv stable, use 3m 4000,
3 tubes, good to know. I was wondering how far the self leveling stuff goes.
Glad it helped!
How do you insure you don’t cut through the roof material. And your talking 7+ years in the desert like conditions??? Nothing will last in those conditions. Bottom line if you want to save your roof from damage you need keep a barrier (ie. Cover) on it when not in use, period.
Experience. Yes, storing it inside is always the best, covers don't usually stay on long-term and can blow off and cause damage elsewhere on the unit.
Well, I suppose this adds to the notion that Eternabond is inappropriately named as it's anything but eternal. I found it far better, when it comes to the permanent fix, to use James Bond.
Repair tapes do have their uses and are great for tears and temporary repairs. I strongly doubt anyone would use the product on the roof of their actual house for holes or flashing.
If the eternabond lasted 8 years from factory, that is WAY longer than Dycor would ever last from factory. I check my RV every year for cracks on the roof and around windows and keep the sealant clean as well. Eternabond seems to cause a mess though, but wonder if the newer eternabond has improved UV protection? Great video. Cheers
Checking every year is absolutely the best idea so matter the sealant. I would argue that the dicor on the roof outlasted the eternabond though. Thanks!
@@AZExpert Good to know about the Dicor. I didnt know it lasted that long. Thanks
Key question. What do you use to clean the area prior to sealing. I saw one guy used 50?50 mis of water and vinegar.
Soap and water mostly, but a quick wipe down of alcohol doesn't hurt. Vinegar doesn't help with dirt and can leave stuff behind just make sure its dry
Why not just cut out the failed tape, clean properly, and reapply another layer of Eternabond tape? You must admit that Eternabond lasts much, much longer than just a year or two for Dicor Lap Sealant.
I do not have to admit that, I am very aware that tape is a bad choice for a lap sealant and should be limited to tears in membranes or temporary repairs.
Well I would have cleaned it up better nature alcohol to make sure I had the best surface before putting down my sealant !
Make sure to test that is safe to use on your surface first
that doesnt look likw eternabond to me it looks like a cheap knockoff I BET THATS WHAT IT IS it also looks like you promoting another product i am not convinced you are being truthfull
I put extra eternabond on all my seals and that was almost 6 years ago and its standing up great. Wouldn't surprise me if it lasted another 6 years sooooo yea lol beings that you probably get paid by the hour it doesn't Surprise me you'd recommend dicor instead, you know cuz its very time consuming to replace 😂
thanks for taking time to type and edit a thoughtful and helpful comment
@@AZExpert well if you can't laugh at yourself right ??? 😂
@Keyzer Soze OK professor pretentious, whatever you say 🙄
Summary: BOTH the Eternabond (maybe - no proof of brand) and Dicor (maybe - no proof of brand) failed after 6+ years of sitting in the Arizona sun.
Since both Enternabond and Dicor are well known brand names with long histories of success and durability, I'm going to guess that what was installed is neither.
Either way, I can't agree that fixing the tape was "more difficult" than with the caulking as both suck in their own way. Now, most shops would simply goop more caulk over the failed seams (and likely the tape as well) and send the customer on his way, but from your statements, you didn't do that. GOOD JOB THERE...but having experience in removing both Eternabond (with a heat gun) and Dicor (with a multi-tool), I'll take the heat gun every time.
That said, the owners clearly didn't care for their roof properly in the first place or they would have caught indications long ago.
Late to the party and we're definitely experts.. but that seems to be user error for not applying correctly.
So, Eternabond last 5 to 10 years and the sealant you used will only last a year?
I've seen the sealant last 20 years maintenance is the key
What year was the Artic Fox?
Cheers.
If I remember correctly it was a 2007. Thanks!
The manufacture laid the Eternabond first then fitted the trim. Lift that trim and I'll bet there is Eternabond underneath it.
I don't think so, but thanks
Should be done annually! Durabond sounds like crap.
Dicor stinks. OSI Quad Max for vertical areas and Premier Pro sealant for the roof.
I'll look into the premier pro. Dicor can be a good product. My biggest concern is that roof components do have to be removed at times and I want to make sure they can without damaging the roof. Thanks!
No way that was Eternabond tape from factory. Maybe some other junk. That dicor is junk.
:) Thanks for watching!