Can confirm, for me, flush on the tensioner was stock. I carefully tightened the tensioner with the exact same number of turns as I loosened it and it hit the point where it was just flush. One of the clearest tutorials I’ve followed for any 3d printer issue. Thanks!
Hello ! I did the same replacement for hardened steel extruder and hotend with Hardened Steel Nozzle in P1P two weeks ago. The box to pull the wheel is actually unnecessary. Unfortunately, I haven't printed anything with carbon fiber since then because my P1P is not hermetically sealed so far and I don't have a proper carbon filter to capture dust, etc. All your videos are very well watched with interest. Thank you and greetings from Krakow.
Yep, the gear pops right off. I don't plan on doing any CF, but wanted to show my peeps how to do the gear. Also, the Bambu install video, shows the wrong printer. Sadly, this is common for Bambu so far. Greetings from NJ USA!
@@3DRundown Excuse me. It's a European habit. Krakow is an almost 1,000-year-old city with a population of nearly 1 million in Poland. Second largest as a city and third largest as an agglomeration of almost 1.5 million. Where's her to the great and wonderful New York. Despite the nearby war in Ukraine, it has one advantage, it is quiet here and entering the Old Town late at night you can almost feel like in the Middle Ages. Once again, greetings from old Krakow!
Hello. Did you get a chance to print anything with carbon fiber since then? I'm wondering if P1P is going to work well with . And greeting from Kyiv! :)
bro thank you! i found bambu labs tutorial for this specific replacement lacking. followed this and am printing benchy as a test right now. seems to be working fine
Any chance of you showing how to install Oldham couplers on the z rods of an Ender 3 S1 or similar? Im feeling a bit nervous about taking this on and messing up my printer. Thanks, great videos!
Thanks for showing disassembly! Does not look super daunting but a bit of work and glad to see these step by step instructions. What is the purpose of the gear replacement? Enhanced durability? Thanks!!
You can totally do it, just be careful not to strip the little screws, or break the cable connectors. The new gear is much harder metal, for working with higher strength types of filament
Was wondering if you have ever replaced the extruder motor on an x1c ? I replaced mine but not I’m having a hard to putting it back together 😢 there wiki site is not helping
Thanks for this tutorial, do you know where in Bambu studio OR on the P1S panel you actually set the nozzle type to "hardened steel" so that Bambu Studio doesn't prompt you to check the nozzle type when you print more abrasive fillaments
Great, easy to follow tutorial. Thanks! I just wonder: on the original gears of my P1S has been some grease. I replaced them with the hardened steel gears and by following your tutorial I didn't grease them. What do you think: should I put something on them?
you think they will sell the whole unit with the hardened nozzle as well vs just he assembly or swapping out the assembly and the stainless nozzle for the hardened will be basically the same thing?
Not sure, but I think it would be a good idea, to offer additional configurations, as assembled kits. For now, you can get the Extruder, with the hardned steel geer, already installed, but, NOT with the hot end, attached. That said, the hot end is super easy to install. I picked up a few, and hope to shoot an install video in the comming days. They probably should offer more options, and, I wouldn't be surprised if they do. We'll see....
@3DRundown Hello, very good, I am buying a p1s and I wanted to know if that printer came with the hardened steel assembly or not and what benefit does it have? Because the one from the bamboo store is black but it is made of plastic material, right?
I never remove my Glass, and can't remember the last time I removed a PEI bed. I can replace a 20 PEI sheet. Not so easy to replace the Magnet or Hot Plate. I'd rather protect THEM
Hi, I have a stupid newbie question. My P1P is only on the way so far. What is the benefit of installing a "hardened steel gear assembly"? Is it just using abrasive materials without damaging the extruder? Or are there other benefits? What material is used for the default gearbox of the P1P extruder? Thank you in advance for your reply.
after changing to the hardened hot end are there any changes that need to be made in bambu studio or is it plug and play.Mine has worked so perfectly im afraid to touch it. I came from a lulzbot taz so with every change it was a new learning experiece all over again lol Thank you for your videos they are very easy to understand and follow. I always enjoy videos that are informative and too the point.Alot of you tubers post videos that seem to be more worried about time on screen rather than lesson at hand so again THANK YOU..
Time on screen is super important, as 99% of all viewers offer 0$ for their veiwership. This leaves us relying on ADS. Without the Ads, we are working for free, and eventually are forced to go do something else with our time, or, be broke all the time. It's a really tricky balance, that some people just don't do a good job with. I focus on what I need to teach, and never think about padding the video for run time. That's just how I work, however, the reality is, anything under 8 Minutes, is tough to monitize. This is why I try to encourage people to be members, super thanks, patreon, and #1: Use my Affiliate links. This way, I can worry less about nonsense like artificially stretching out a videom, which will cause viewers to bail anyways. That said, YOUR WELCOME. Thanks for being here. NOPE, the swap is easy, and off you go. Nothing special to do. The X1 allows you to tell it which Nozzle you are using. The P1, does not. The move to Bambu can be overwhelming, but, with experience, you'll be OK, and your confidence will come
Have I helped you? Help ME, continue to help others: Consider a TIP, or my Patreon: www.paypal.me/cerenzio / www.venmo.com/gregg-cerenzio Support me via Patreon: patreon.com/user?u=73422599 Use my Amazon Affiliate Link when shopping: Amazon: amzn.to/2miGQq9
Good tutorial, I would just suggest putting a small amount of grease between the hardened steel gears tho and maybe a little on the end that sits in the bearing given it doesn’t hurt and it’s recommended.
@@3DRundown Hey man that’s cool. It was a suggestion. In vast majority of cases it will be just fine but again it only helps. There’s a reason they come greased from the factory. It’s a gear, and constant metal to metal contact only benefits and lasts longer from lubrication. Also not everyone’s experience is the same, I’ve seen people run into issues around 1000hrs and opened their extruder to find ground down gear teeth and gear dust everywhere, then others that run 4000+hrs no problem. But hey, at the end of the day, to each their own.
I hear you, but, so far, I've got 3 of them cranking nonstop. But, the real grounding reason I don't do it or teach it, is, Bamby does not reccomend it. Here is the official WikiL wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/extruder-clog
also a big thanks from me: Tried to print PA. Wasn't too thrilled by the result, so I stopped the print. Waited some time, then tried to unload. Wenn, that did not bode well - the P1S tries to unload at 250°C, while the PA was printed with 280°C. I could pull it out, but ... then I loaded PLA (printer was cooled meanwhile). It was pulled in for a cm or 2, then the extruder "snarled" at me and did not pull the PLA further. So, I was stuck with a flashlight (b/c printer off) and my phone looking at your video how to get out the friggin' extruder. Back at my desk I disassembled it. Could not laugh about "there's no mark on how much this screw has to be fastened, just try to match how it was when you disasssem..." - could have used that information while disassembling :) I also had to remove the tiny motor thingy and it's pcb to finally eject all filament. But hey, after all, it worked. Does someone want to have a rather unused spool of eSun PA filament? 😕
i guess i'm gonna upgrade that too btw: have you thought about reviewing some enclosures for the P1P? there are quite a few on printables by now - maybe you can do some rundown on them or testprint a few?
It's a pain in the a**, but, not TOO bad.... I have such a huge list of things I want to cover. It's so hard being just one person. But, that does sound like a fun, yet super-time consuming project. I'll see about getting it on the list! Maybe if I just try some of the more popular ones....
@@3DRundown or just try mine? 😂 mine and yet easy to build, downside: no door I've tried the original armor mod plates, they don't even fit properly it took me about 4 weeks to design them, but printing and installing them is quite fast
I'm finishing up the ARC enclosure. Getting the non-printable parts was a pain but I gather that by some time in March an external supplier will have everything bundled and early adopters will get the prefabbed acrylic panels and the brass hardware for $75, which is a very good deal. BTW, I'm using Lexan rather than Acrylic because it's stronger and more heat resistant, and it was actually a bit cheaper for some reason. Downside is that you either have to cut it yourself or trust the store to do it right (which may be a substantial risk, as it turns out).
If this helps just ONE person...The connectors are designed in a way that allow you to plug them in only halfway. So you can think it's plugged in but only one row of pins is plugged in. I chased a "filament cutter is stuck" error until 2am and realized this was the issue. There's a thing called keyed connectors, Bambu. Look it up.
Would have been easier to unclip to filament tube and do this whole process on the desk. Also remove the tension screw from the start and the gear comes out easier also.
On the parts website it indicates (or at least implies) that the hardened steel is incompatible with the P1P. If it has the same geometry then I can't see why it would be incompatible. Hardened steel (carbon steel) is less corrosion resistant than stainless but can sustain a sharper edge on knife blades. It's common to coat or treat a hardened steel blade by bluing it or by dura-coating it, although that doesn't protect the edge. However, you can keep the edge oiled, which prevents corrosion. I'm not sure what this would mean with an extruder, since I wouldn't really know an extruder from a canoe. Anyway, perhaps it's just a maintenance thing. They don't expect P1P owners to put in much time for maintenance and that's the source of the incompatibility implication.
A very important step (also when changing hot ends) is to check your part cooling fan. Just open the app, tap printer, tap part, turn it on. Thank me later. I've had a couple of times where it felt connected but it didn't work and your prints will get ruined if that fan ain't spinning 😂
Nope. Not even on the P1S.... My extruder just exploded, and I asked them to send me one with the hardned gear, and.... it doesn't exist. Not for the P1P/P1S... it DOES for the X1C. So, you have to order the Extruder, AND the Gear, then dissasemble the NEW extruder, and install the Hardned gear. It ends up costing like $20 more than the X1C extruder, and, a bunch of your time. Kinda sucks
Can confirm, for me, flush on the tensioner was stock. I carefully tightened the tensioner with the exact same number of turns as I loosened it and it hit the point where it was just flush.
One of the clearest tutorials I’ve followed for any 3d printer issue. Thanks!
Thanks so much, and OMG, finally somebody steps up with the Tensioner verdict! #HERO. Thanks for being here. :)
srsly thanks dude this was a 10/10 well done
13 turns for me!
Thank you brother. I've come back to this video when I need a reminder on how to take apart and put it back together.
Welcome broski! Come back anytime. 💯💯
Awesome tutorial! Detailed, clear and automatically answered all questions I had. Thanks a bunch for making this a breeze to do!
Very welcome friend. Welcome!
Amazing tutorial, quick, to the point. Good job.
🙏🏼🙏🏼
Just what I needed to see. I currently have a clogged/stuck extruder and these steps to disassemble make it less daunting. 👍
Excellent work!!!!! The step by step made it easy to understand and no mistakes were made!!! Thank you!!!
Awesome. Nice work. Now your set for fun stuff like GITD!
Hello ! I did the same replacement for hardened steel extruder and hotend with Hardened Steel Nozzle in P1P two weeks ago. The box to pull the wheel is actually unnecessary. Unfortunately, I haven't printed anything with carbon fiber since then because my P1P is not hermetically sealed so far and I don't have a proper carbon filter to capture dust, etc. All your videos are very well watched with interest. Thank you and greetings from Krakow.
Yep, the gear pops right off. I don't plan on doing any CF, but wanted to show my peeps how to do the gear. Also, the Bambu install video, shows the wrong printer. Sadly, this is common for Bambu so far. Greetings from NJ USA!
@@3DRundown Excuse me. It's a European habit. Krakow is an almost 1,000-year-old city with a population of nearly 1 million in Poland. Second largest as a city and third largest as an agglomeration of almost 1.5 million. Where's her to the great and wonderful New York. Despite the nearby war in Ukraine, it has one advantage, it is quiet here and entering the Old Town late at night you can almost feel like in the Middle Ages. Once again, greetings from old Krakow!
Hello. Did you get a chance to print anything with carbon fiber since then? I'm wondering if P1P is going to work well with . And greeting from Kyiv! :)
bro thank you! i found bambu labs tutorial for this specific replacement lacking. followed this and am printing benchy as a test right now. seems to be working fine
Very welcome! Stick around. :)
@@3DRundown def subscribed
Great tutorial. Just upgraded my extruder gears. Thank you!
Mine are still going! 🔥
Have you noticed any decline in print quality, such as surface lines or overhang performance, after switching to harder steel extruder gears?
@@mitchellkirschall6699 No, I haven't.
Thanks for this video. I was able to replace my gear without the 3d printed adapter. Appreciate the tutorial.
Thanks for the guide. Instructions were very clear and easy to follow!
Welcome friend!
Great stuff, thanks. It was a bit stressful but I managed to follow everything easily and the new part works fine now!
The first time can be a hold-your-breath experience. But after that, easy-peasy
Brilliant tutorial, thanks so much. Followed it and it was much simpler than I originally thought! You've got a new subscriber.
Awesome. Happy to help! Welcome. :)
Excellent Instructional Video
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼 Stick around for more fun. 👍🏼
How is it working inside the cabinet 🗄️ of the printer easy or hard ? Ty you for the repair on this . 😎👍🏻
Very easy, because you will almost never be doing it. It's shocking how little you need to work inside these machines.
@@3DRundown ty
Absolutely perfect instructional video. Thanks so much for this, much better than the instructions on the official wiki.
Very welcome! Thanks much! :) #SuperChat
Thanks for the video. Make my switch out to the hardened steel extruder and gear easy.
Thank you! Made install a breeze. Such a well put together machine.
Welcome friend.
You helped me with this video to get my first clog out of the extruder gears. Thank you ;p
Any chance of you showing how to install Oldham couplers on the z rods of an Ender 3 S1 or similar? Im feeling a bit nervous about taking this on and messing up my printer. Thanks, great videos!
Ironically, I actually thought about it.... Lemme look into it. Can't promise, but I'll try
Thanks for showing disassembly! Does not look super daunting but a bit of work and glad to see these step by step instructions. What is the purpose of the gear replacement? Enhanced durability? Thanks!!
You can totally do it, just be careful not to strip the little screws, or break the cable connectors. The new gear is much harder metal, for working with higher strength types of filament
They also sell a pre-assembled extruder with the gear already in it.
Love your vids man 🙂↔️
My vida love you too. 🙏🏼
Thanks for the clear instructions
Perfect tutorial, thank you!
Welcome!
YOU are fantastic. good work and great video.
Thank you.... 🙌🏼🙌🏼 Means allot.
Was wondering if you have ever replaced the extruder motor on an x1c ? I replaced mine but not I’m having a hard to putting it back together 😢 there wiki site is not helping
I haven't. I was super late to the X1C game. I hope to cover that soon, but not sure when
Super easy to follow. Thank you for this excellent walkthrough
🤜🏼🤛🏼 Happy to have you. Consider supporting my Course, my Patreon, or a SUPER THANKS, to help keep me around. :)
Thanks for this tutorial, do you know where in Bambu studio OR on the P1S panel you actually set the nozzle type to "hardened steel" so that Bambu Studio doesn't prompt you to check the nozzle type when you print more abrasive fillaments
In ORCA, you can, in Bambu you can not. On an X1C, under maintenance, you can. So, for now.... I don't know of a way.
This may now be available on latest firmware as you can configure nozzle on screen and handy app, cannot confirm studio as I use orca
Great video man. Keep them coming!
Thanks so much. Ima try!!
What size bearings are those? My stainless steel extruder assembly wouldn’t give up one of its bearings, and I broke it attempting to pry it off.
I'm not sure brother. Bambu shop likely sells it, or, can swap out the entire extruder.
Thanks for this, exactly what I was looking for!
Gotchu 🙌🏼🙌🏼
i dont have bambulab printer jet, but this video helps a lot, looks easy, now i can buy just P1S and change gears, no need go for P1X carbon
P1S ships with the Steal gear 🔥🔥
Steal gears, but not Hardened steel , at least I can found info about it more. @@3DRundown
Bambu makes a Hardnes Steel Gear upgrade for P1P. This is what is in the P1S. That's all Bambu offers
Thank you for this video.
Great, easy to follow tutorial. Thanks! I just wonder: on the original gears of my P1S has been some grease. I replaced them with the hardened steel gears and by following your tutorial I didn't grease them. What do you think: should I put something on them?
I didn't, and I'm about 92829291922882 in on it.
you think they will sell the whole unit with the hardened nozzle as well vs just he assembly or swapping out the assembly and the stainless nozzle for the hardened will be basically the same thing?
Not sure, but I think it would be a good idea, to offer additional configurations, as assembled kits. For now, you can get the Extruder, with the hardned steel geer, already installed, but, NOT with the hot end, attached. That said, the hot end is super easy to install. I picked up a few, and hope to shoot an install video in the comming days. They probably should offer more options, and, I wouldn't be surprised if they do. We'll see....
Have you noticed any decline in print quality, such as surface lines or overhang performance, after switching to harder steel extruder gears?
No. I installed mine before I ever printed a single thing on a Bambu. It's still there, and I often forget which machine even has it. Been great.
I found i was able to disassemble the extruder without the tool. If you loosen up the tensioner enough, everything falls out on its own
So I’m doing this upgrade and inside my extruder was metal shavings that has rusted… I think it was way to tight. Imma loosen it up some.
Wow, that is really unusual. How do the gears look?
@@3DRundown the gears looked intact and in normal ish condition. Ig they were just rubbing to tight causing metal shavings to build up and rust
@3DRundown Hello, very good, I am buying a p1s and I wanted to know if that printer came with the hardened steel assembly or not and what benefit does it have? Because the one from the bamboo store is black but it is made of plastic material, right?
ONLY the gear and Nozzle is steel, and yes the P1S has it. It helps handle Abrasive filament without wearing down the teeth or nozzle opening
@@3DRundown It also comes with a hardened steel mouthpiece.
I have confirned with Bambu Lab: The P1S comes with the hardnes NOZZLE, but NOT the Hardned Gear
What screw drivers are you using in this project. I will be updating soon. Thank you
It's a Teckman, sadly no longer available. This one is just like it:, and will be on sale in about 5 hours: amzn.to/3ERg0y8
@@3DRundown awesome & thank you
Are there any other mods that need to be made to print with their PET-CF besides adding a fan and air filter?
Not really. Unless you have a drafty room.
thank you for the video! It helped me immensley, my only comment is that the print plate should be removed before doing any work
I never remove my Glass, and can't remember the last time I removed a PEI bed. I can replace a 20 PEI sheet. Not so easy to replace the Magnet or Hot Plate. I'd rather protect THEM
Thank you for the video.
Welcomer! :)
Hi, I have a stupid newbie question. My P1P is only on the way so far. What is the benefit of installing a "hardened steel gear assembly"? Is it just using abrasive materials without damaging the extruder? Or are there other benefits? What material is used for the default gearbox of the P1P extruder? Thank you in advance for your reply.
Yes, it's for hard/abrasive materials that will wear down the plastic gear. I'd leave it be for PLA
after changing to the hardened hot end are there any changes that need to be made in bambu studio or is it plug and play.Mine has worked so perfectly im afraid to touch it. I came from a lulzbot taz so with every change it was a new learning experiece all over again lol Thank you for your videos they are very easy to understand and follow. I always enjoy videos that are informative and too the point.Alot of you tubers post videos that seem to be more worried about time on screen rather than lesson at hand so again THANK YOU..
Time on screen is super important, as 99% of all viewers offer 0$ for their veiwership. This leaves us relying on ADS. Without the Ads, we are working for free, and eventually are forced to go do something else with our time, or, be broke all the time. It's a really tricky balance, that some people just don't do a good job with. I focus on what I need to teach, and never think about padding the video for run time. That's just how I work, however, the reality is, anything under 8 Minutes, is tough to monitize. This is why I try to encourage people to be members, super thanks, patreon, and #1: Use my Affiliate links. This way, I can worry less about nonsense like artificially stretching out a videom, which will cause viewers to bail anyways. That said, YOUR WELCOME. Thanks for being here. NOPE, the swap is easy, and off you go. Nothing special to do. The X1 allows you to tell it which Nozzle you are using. The P1, does not. The move to Bambu can be overwhelming, but, with experience, you'll be OK, and your confidence will come
thx you!!!! thank you so much in S.korea..
Thanks my man!
Welcome friend!
I had filament stuck in the gear of the extruder thanks to this video I took it out.
Awesome. Love it
Have I helped you? Help ME, continue to help others: Consider a TIP, or my Patreon:
www.paypal.me/cerenzio / www.venmo.com/gregg-cerenzio
Support me via Patreon: patreon.com/user?u=73422599
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Good tutorial, I would just suggest putting a small amount of grease between the hardened steel gears tho and maybe a little on the end that sits in the bearing given it doesn’t hurt and it’s recommended.
I'm gonna disagree, as I'm 1400 hours in, on this gear set. 😊
@@3DRundown Hey man that’s cool. It was a suggestion.
In vast majority of cases it will be just fine but again it only helps. There’s a reason they come greased from the factory. It’s a gear, and constant metal to metal contact only benefits and lasts longer from lubrication. Also not everyone’s experience is the same, I’ve seen people run into issues around 1000hrs and opened their extruder to find ground down gear teeth and gear dust everywhere, then others that run 4000+hrs no problem. But hey, at the end of the day, to each their own.
I hear you, but, so far, I've got 3 of them cranking nonstop. But, the real grounding reason I don't do it or teach it, is, Bamby does not reccomend it. Here is the official WikiL wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/extruder-clog
Link to stl for tool? Can't get the bearing off
1drv.ms/u/s!AsUNEpEglKSch6VwwPHkZtktqj9XMQ?e=ugi7Ta
Thank you!
Still can't get the bearing off the yellow gear assembly. Any suggestions?
also a big thanks from me: Tried to print PA. Wasn't too thrilled by the result, so I stopped the print. Waited some time, then tried to unload. Wenn, that did not bode well - the P1S tries to unload at 250°C, while the PA was printed with 280°C. I could pull it out, but ... then I loaded PLA (printer was cooled meanwhile). It was pulled in for a cm or 2, then the extruder "snarled" at me and did not pull the PLA further. So, I was stuck with a flashlight (b/c printer off) and my phone looking at your video how to get out the friggin' extruder.
Back at my desk I disassembled it. Could not laugh about "there's no mark on how much this screw has to be fastened, just try to match how it was when you disasssem..." - could have used that information while disassembling :)
I also had to remove the tiny motor thingy and it's pcb to finally eject all filament. But hey, after all, it worked.
Does someone want to have a rather unused spool of eSun PA filament? 😕
LMAO! Amazing how the smallest things throw us into shitstorms of hell, on 3D Printers. Send me the PA! 😜
send me an address :)@@3DRundown
Email me: gregg at greggadventure dot come
Excellent.
Thanks much! :)
legend
Thank you friend
i guess i'm gonna upgrade that too
btw: have you thought about reviewing some enclosures for the P1P? there are quite a few on printables by now - maybe you can do some rundown on them or testprint a few?
It's a pain in the a**, but, not TOO bad....
I have such a huge list of things I want to cover. It's so hard being just one person. But, that does sound like a fun, yet super-time consuming project. I'll see about getting it on the list! Maybe if I just try some of the more popular ones....
@@3DRundown or just try mine? 😂
mine and yet easy to build, downside: no door
I've tried the original armor mod plates, they don't even fit properly
it took me about 4 weeks to design them, but printing and installing them is quite fast
I'm finishing up the ARC enclosure. Getting the non-printable parts was a pain but I gather that by some time in March an external supplier will have everything bundled and early adopters will get the prefabbed acrylic panels and the brass hardware for $75, which is a very good deal.
BTW, I'm using Lexan rather than Acrylic because it's stronger and more heat resistant, and it was actually a bit cheaper for some reason. Downside is that you either have to cut it yourself or trust the store to do it right (which may be a substantial risk, as it turns out).
If this helps just ONE person...The connectors are designed in a way that allow you to plug them in only halfway. So you can think it's plugged in but only one row of pins is plugged in. I chased a "filament cutter is stuck" error until 2am and realized this was the issue. There's a thing called keyed connectors, Bambu. Look it up.
Bambu doesn't listen or communicate with us peons, at all.
Would have been easier to unclip to filament tube and do this whole process on the desk. Also remove the tension screw from the start and the gear comes out easier also.
Not bad for my first time ever doing it. All my install/build videos are shot on my 1st time.
Thank you
Thanks for your very instructional vids!
Welcome! Happy to have you
On the parts website it indicates (or at least implies) that the hardened steel is incompatible with the P1P. If it has the same geometry then I can't see why it would be incompatible. Hardened steel (carbon steel) is less corrosion resistant than stainless but can sustain a sharper edge on knife blades. It's common to coat or treat a hardened steel blade by bluing it or by dura-coating it, although that doesn't protect the edge. However, you can keep the edge oiled, which prevents corrosion. I'm not sure what this would mean with an extruder, since I wouldn't really know an extruder from a canoe. Anyway, perhaps it's just a maintenance thing. They don't expect P1P owners to put in much time for maintenance and that's the source of the incompatibility implication.
The website absolutely lists the Hardened Steel gear as P1P compatible. Many are well into using them
A very important step (also when changing hot ends) is to check your part cooling fan. Just open the app, tap printer, tap part, turn it on.
Thank me later.
I've had a couple of times where it felt connected but it didn't work and your prints will get ruined if that fan ain't spinning 😂
Geeeez. They really couldn't have included the hardened gear?!
Nope. Not even on the P1S.... My extruder just exploded, and I asked them to send me one with the hardned gear, and.... it doesn't exist. Not for the P1P/P1S... it DOES for the X1C. So, you have to order the Extruder, AND the Gear, then dissasemble the NEW extruder, and install the Hardned gear. It ends up costing like $20 more than the X1C extruder, and, a bunch of your time. Kinda sucks
This should be common sense, but make sure to turn off your machine and unload all filament before doing this 😂
Jesus, I would hope so!! Lol