Had a really bad clog that required disassembling the extruder and your video made that process very simple for a beginner. Found it when on the step to remove the yellow gear, it would budge. After a while, success and now I can continue printing. Thanks for making and sharing this!
Thank you so, so much. The part to loosen the screw of the cutter was essential, I had the feeling I would force and break as-is. Other videos this part is suddenly moved aside to allow the gears to be removed but none tell you *how* you can move the cutter safely away. Huge thanks and props for this!
This is a fantastic video. The swap when ALMOST perfectly. In my case, the screw holding the cutter arm was so tight, the supplied wrench started to strip the screw head. I found another allen wrench in my garage that worked great. I made sure to tighten it enough, but not TOO much when i reinstalled it. Thanks for making such a great tutorial!
Thanks for posting. I’m weighing my options between a P1S and an A1 & this makes the ease of nozzle swaps on the A1 look more attractive for my abilities.
Best tutorial. I suck at fixing things and this made it so easy. Thank you. Annd no unnecessary long spiel at the beginning that's frustrating to listen to when you're trying to fix something complicated.
Thanks for the video! I only needed to replace the hotend, not the whole assembly, but this video gave me everything I needed to do it successfully, although I did need to pause a lot.
Great guide. Also it seems like you can even leave the PTFE guide/collar on? Mine required quite a lot of force to put on, not sure I want to try removing it if it's not needed.
Highly recommend electronic swabs over the standard cotton ones. They don't shed like normal swabs so no stands of cotton mixed into the thermal compound.
Yes, something other than Q tip. The bambulabs video says to use a Q tip, and I did, but it leaves behind some cotton strings of not careful, seems like not a good thing when the thing is getting so hot.
oh wow! That’s good info to know that it’s not just needed for abrasive filaments. I’ll have to order me some more to have on hand here for maintenance. Thanks for the heads up.
interesting I only print PLA, my extruder just starting to have issues at 1021 hours of print time lol. still using the default stainless steel gear on my p1s.
5:30 The video is missing a part: After putting on the silicone sock, remember to install the fan back on, with the 2 screws. The screw side is the same side the cables are. The fan is also oriented with the sticker side in, otherwise the cable will be too short to connect back at the printer
No, THANK YOU. That is a hell of a process. Just changing hot ends I think will kill those microscopic connectors soon enough. Your instructions saved me. Well done, Doug
I just wish the there was an option to order it with hardened steel option. I changed hotend without realising extruder needs to be messed with as well. I just want to print and not mess with the thing 😁
I print lots of 30% wood with my stainless steel 0.4 nozzle no problem. What will a hardened steel setup really do? Just last longer that’s all. I’ll wait until it comes time to actually replace it THEN I’ll upgrade. All these recommendations saying you need a steel setup but never has anyone demonstrated exactly the why. My P1S even came with an extra 0.4 nozzle so I won’t be upgrading to steel until both those wear down. I’m not replacing a perfectly good part with the same exact slightly stronger good part just because it’s recommended for abrasive materials. Show me a schematic detailing the difference of how merely feeding different filaments does major damage then we’ll have some actual proof. At worst it’s just the filament dust slowly kicking up and getting into the gears after a ton of hours usage.
Well my original nozzle got clogged eventually so I went extra mile and upgraded the extruder as well. I had to fiddle a bit before I got it to print PETG CF reasonable well. I just don't know if it is possible just to have a machine with pre-sets to print whatever I want out-of-the box. I assume the people who designed and built the machine know about wear and tear hence it comes with recommendations
Just followed your vid to make the swap on my P1S, all steps are identical from P1P. Thanks for posting this. Not sure if the gears are supposed to be lubed or kept dry. The wiki didn't seem to mention this either way, so I left dry for now.
Hi, for printing wood filament, is the stainless stell nozzle and extruder gears that the P1S comes with, good enough?, or both nozzle and extruder gears needs to be replaced with the hardened steel ones?
Thank you for the detailed and smooth video! I have a P1S. Are these the same hotend and extruder gear I'd have to buy to upgrade the P1S to be able to print abrasive materials? Thanks in advance!
Great video! Just installed and it went well but my hardened gear assembly came with two bearings that weren't mentioned here. I'm assuming those are the same ones already installed holding the gears in place and unless something was damaged we didn't have to replace them?
@tripasgarage at 1:38 you are somewhat forcing the cutter lever too much, if you loosen the screw on the cutter a bit more, you will not need to force it. The screw has two positions, loosen a small amount and you can get the cutter out; loosen further and the arm will be able to move further out.
Thanks for the quick rundown. btw this does not work very well if you have a clog mid print, and you disassemble it on the fly, lol. Layering issues after restart. oh well it was worth a shot
I appreciate the feedback and view. Yeah, this is the X1 cable chain. So far I've no issues with it. It's pretty cheap fix and once you buy the parts, you can reference this video for an easy step by step
@@brandongardner2853 You're welcome. Shoot me a message or reply back here if you're having any issues or questions. You can also contact me on instangram messaging. Pretty quick there @tripasgarage (you'll see lots of cars) that's the page lol.
Make sure to press the cutting lever to the right and hold it while you untighten the screw. otherwise it will scratch the plastic of the printing head. Also tighten the extruder spring BEFORE you set up the enclosing of the gear, otherwise you could miss when the spring isn't properly tensioned.
People say you should replace both together when upgrading. I think it’s a bunch of hoopla. I’ll be printing abrasives with me stainless steel until it actually breaks down. Then I’ll upgrade. All this part does is feed the filaments and get dust accumulated in the gears and the nozzle endures high temperatures of materials extruded. Steel just lasts longer that’s all.
@@Fresco272 unplugged from power/wall once, turned the breaker switch off once and removed the power cord from the printer once, Good try though. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I didn't see anything in the documentation, but ran the standard calibration process anyway. It worked fine immediately afterwards, so I didn't do anything further. I also changed the nozzle type in the Bambu Studio settings, but I think the only difference there is whether it warns you before you run a spool of abrasive filament through a stainless nozzle.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I did this on my P1S this evening. It really is this simple.
What parts did you order?
@@CookinBeatloaf Complete Hotend Assembly 0,4mm Hardened Steel and Hardened Steel Extruder Gear Assembly
Perfect walkthrough, went flawless, right now running the new calibration feature. Thanks a lot !
Thanks! You just saved me so much time with this video!
WOW! I truly appreciate the gift, it's such a nice gesture. Thank you so much
Great job on putting the instructions together. Thank you!
Had a really bad clog that required disassembling the extruder and your video made that process very simple for a beginner. Found it when on the step to remove the yellow gear, it would budge. After a while, success and now I can continue printing. Thanks for making and sharing this!
great tutorial - done my P1S today using your instructions. Bring on the carbon fibre!
Haha I used this video to clear my jammed gears! Thanks man keep it up!! 😊😊
Thank you so, so much. The part to loosen the screw of the cutter was essential, I had the feeling I would force and break as-is. Other videos this part is suddenly moved aside to allow the gears to be removed but none tell you *how* you can move the cutter safely away. Huge thanks and props for this!
Why did I think it would be any less involved than this. Not too bad now I know what to expect, thanks for the step by step.
This is a fantastic video. The swap when ALMOST perfectly. In my case, the screw holding the cutter arm was so tight, the supplied wrench started to strip the screw head. I found another allen wrench in my garage that worked great. I made sure to tighten it enough, but not TOO much when i reinstalled it. Thanks for making such a great tutorial!
Did you start loosening with the short arm of the Allen wrench? That usually works best.
Thanks for posting. I’m weighing my options between a P1S and an A1 & this makes the ease of nozzle swaps on the A1 look more attractive for my abilities.
Great video commenting for the algorithm 🤙👍
Excellent video I've watched a few tear downs and yours is by far the most detialed and best filmed. Great work
You’re very welcome and I appreciate it.
Best tutorial. I suck at fixing things and this made it so easy. Thank you. Annd no unnecessary long spiel at the beginning that's frustrating to listen to when you're trying to fix something complicated.
@@happycamperproducts much appreciated
THANK YOU!
All the other videos didn't go as in-depth and I had a little piece stuck inside.
Ironing, NEVER AGAIN.
Agree. Plus the other videos chat a lot, just get to the point man!
Perfect tutorial. Thank you so much!
Your video just saved me! I had a huge clog and this is a new machine so I’m inexperienced. Your video was so easy to follow! Thank you!!
Same haha
Thanks for the video! I only needed to replace the hotend, not the whole assembly, but this video gave me everything I needed to do it successfully, although I did need to pause a lot.
Good job. Thank you for posting. Very easy to follow instructions,good photography and no unnecessary content. Subscribed
Thanks!
@@silvertibby9283 Thank you very much.
Thank you!!! Im about to do an extruder replacement and an upgrade install for the hardened gears. This is VERY helpful!
What a perfect tutorial ! Thank you !
Like others have said, this is a fantastic video, instructions are clear and to the point. Thanks for making this available.
Great tutorial at the right speed.
Wow! Everything perfectly staged, a truly amazing video! Thank you very much for it!
Appreciate it
Thanks for this video! This was beyond helpful 😃
Very helpful and to the point. Worked out great 😊
Thank you so much for this. I could not for the life of me figure out how to disassemble the extruder without breaking it. This was a life saver.
Just went through the full procedure! THank you for babysitting me. Went well :)
@@pathfinder.george you’re very welcome 👏🏼
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Just added a Hardened Steel Extruder and Hotend to print CF and Glow-In-The-Dark filaments.
You're a badass. Thanks for the perfectly simple instructions and well laid out video.
Great guide. Also it seems like you can even leave the PTFE guide/collar on? Mine required quite a lot of force to put on, not sure I want to try removing it if it's not needed.
I was looking everywhere for a tutorial and finally stumbled upon this one. Thank you!
You’re very welcome. I’m glad it came in handy
Good one mate, this was a big help in upgrading my P1S finally abrasive material can be printed without unwanted wear. Thank you very much
Exceptional video! Thank you heaps for making this.
Thanks for posting this. It was very helpful when I replaced my extruder gears and hotend.
You’re the freaking man! Thank you! Even though I wish I would have just ordered the full hot end lol
Great video, very clear, great instructions! Thank you!
Very helpful! Thanx. Some Filament remains at the gear, so i need this instruction to reassemble the extruder! Success!
Highly recommend electronic swabs over the standard cotton ones. They don't shed like normal swabs so no stands of cotton mixed into the thermal compound.
Medical grade swabs are cheaper and plentiful.
Yes, something other than Q tip. The bambulabs video says to use a Q tip, and I did, but it leaves behind some cotton strings of not careful, seems like not a good thing when the thing is getting so hot.
This was EXCELLENT! install went super smooth following these directions.
this video was very helpful, i enjoyed assembling the part with the help of this video. Thanks for showing us how to fix it
Absolute a great video, just followed the steps and it was super easy to do. Thanks for such a great instruction video.
1100 hours according to my unit.. Only have printed PLA.. I just had to replace these extruder gears. Sounded like it was popping while printing.
oh wow! That’s good info to know that it’s not just needed for abrasive filaments. I’ll have to order me some more to have on hand here for maintenance. Thanks for the heads up.
interesting I only print PLA, my extruder just starting to have issues at 1021 hours of print time lol. still using the default stainless steel gear on my p1s.
perfect walkthrough and thank you for the video!!
Really good video, thank you.
Epic video. I used it to fix a super jam I had with mine.
Thank you for making this video.. you made upgrading to hardened steel gears a breeze.
Thanks! Everything went smoothly
Informative and interesting! 👍
Thanks leaky! Appreciate it.
5:30 The video is missing a part: After putting on the silicone sock, remember to install the fan back on, with the 2 screws. The screw side is the same side the cables are.
The fan is also oriented with the sticker side in, otherwise the cable will be too short to connect back at the printer
@@rubberonasphalt you are correct. Thank you
best toturial for this. needed to unclog my 3d printer and all the other videos skipped the disable part.
I got you! 👍🏼
my first time i did this was when i printed with tpu and a piece got stuck in the extruder and it kept giving me out of filament error
No, THANK YOU. That is a hell of a process. Just changing hot ends I think will kill those microscopic connectors soon enough. Your instructions saved me. Well done, Doug
Exactly what I needed, cheers.
Thanks for putting that together.
You're very welcome
Thanks for the nice explanation. Mission successful 😃👍
You're very welcome. I'm glad it came in handy.
I just wish the there was an option to order it with hardened steel option. I changed hotend without realising extruder needs to be messed with as well. I just want to print and not mess with the thing 😁
I print lots of 30% wood with my stainless steel 0.4 nozzle no problem. What will a hardened steel setup really do? Just last longer that’s all. I’ll wait until it comes time to actually replace it THEN I’ll upgrade. All these recommendations saying you need a steel setup but never has anyone demonstrated exactly the why. My P1S even came with an extra 0.4 nozzle so I won’t be upgrading to steel until both those wear down. I’m not replacing a perfectly good part with the same exact slightly stronger good part just because it’s recommended for abrasive materials. Show me a schematic detailing the difference of how merely feeding different filaments does major damage then we’ll have some actual proof. At worst it’s just the filament dust slowly kicking up and getting into the gears after a ton of hours usage.
Well my original nozzle got clogged eventually so I went extra mile and upgraded the extruder as well. I had to fiddle a bit before I got it to print PETG CF reasonable well. I just don't know if it is possible just to have a machine with pre-sets to print whatever I want out-of-the box. I assume the people who designed and built the machine know about wear and tear hence it comes with recommendations
Great and detailed instructions, thanks!!
You're very welcome.
Nice video tutorial.
Thank you !
Just followed your vid to make the swap on my P1S, all steps are identical from P1P. Thanks for posting this. Not sure if the gears are supposed to be lubed or kept dry. The wiki didn't seem to mention this either way, so I left dry for now.
Hi, for printing wood filament, is the stainless stell nozzle and extruder gears that the P1S comes with, good enough?, or both nozzle and extruder gears needs to be replaced with the hardened steel ones?
You're a legend, thank you!
Thank you for this video.
Thank you for the detailed and smooth video!
I have a P1S. Are these the same hotend and extruder gear I'd have to buy to upgrade the P1S to be able to print abrasive materials?
Thanks in advance!
They are
Perfect!!
Great video! Just installed and it went well but my hardened gear assembly came with two bearings that weren't mentioned here. I'm assuming those are the same ones already installed holding the gears in place and unless something was damaged we didn't have to replace them?
@@draginator6 you are correct. They are already installed
@@TripasGarage Awesome, thanks for the fast response! Did a test print overnight and everything functioned perfectly with the upgraded parts.
thank you and greetings from germany !!!
Great video. Thank you
You’re welcome. Thank you for the feedback
Perfect! Thank you so much!
Thanks for the info
@tripasgarage at 1:38 you are somewhat forcing the cutter lever too much, if you loosen the screw on the cutter a bit more, you will not need to force it. The screw has two positions, loosen a small amount and you can get the cutter out; loosen further and the arm will be able to move further out.
Great video.
Its the best Video for Yutube , for extruder clog vice 1 pi 1 . THANKS , ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for the quick rundown. btw this does not work very well if you have a clog mid print, and you disassemble it on the fly, lol. Layering issues after restart. oh well it was worth a shot
Thank You
Much appreciated
Muchas gracias
Thank you so much for this 🤘🤘 I'm very happy that I bought the fully assembled Nozzle upgrade...!
It is almost impossible to switch the thermistor without damage to the wire coating (at least for me)
Ty for the great vid ! That the x1 chain assembly on the p1p ? want to up grade mine like that .
I appreciate the feedback and view. Yeah, this is the X1 cable chain. So far I've no issues with it. It's pretty cheap fix and once you buy the parts, you can reference this video for an easy step by step
@@TripasGarage Thank you so much will be making this upgrade soon .
@@brandongardner2853 You're welcome. Shoot me a message or reply back here if you're having any issues or questions. You can also contact me on instangram messaging. Pretty quick there @tripasgarage (you'll see lots of cars) that's the page lol.
Nice
Thank you...
Is there a problem to install the extruder gears without greasing it?
no problems
@ thank you
Make sure to press the cutting lever to the right and hold it while you untighten the screw. otherwise it will scratch the plastic of the printing head.
Also tighten the extruder spring BEFORE you set up the enclosing of the gear, otherwise you could miss when the spring isn't properly tensioned.
Does the x1. Arvin come with the hardened version?
Yes
What was the part you had on your PTFE tube? Is that something I can print and put in place?
Hi there, it’s only needed if you don’t use a riser. I typed ptfe tube guide p1p. It is something you can print.
I'm assuming this makes the printer able to cope with more abrasive filaments like carbon fibre?
That is correct :)
Do you sell the metal gears upgrade? I didn't see it on your site.
Those are sold on Bambu website
Are you using the original bambu lab drag chain?
That is correct. Using the chain from Bambu.
The white tube on my p1s is stuck on there, pushing on the black collar doesn't seem to release it.
Before you disconnect the power, have the unit unload your filament
Did you replace the entire hotend here? What about just replacing the nozzle only? Or is the entire hotend required to be upgraded?
People say you should replace both together when upgrading. I think it’s a bunch of hoopla. I’ll be printing abrasives with me stainless steel until it actually breaks down. Then I’ll upgrade. All this part does is feed the filaments and get dust accumulated in the gears and the nozzle endures high temperatures of materials extruded. Steel just lasts longer that’s all.
@@TheFutureLooksGrimm yeah makes sense. No need to replace it until you need to replace it.
Does this allow the hotend to get to 300 deg C
It sure does just like the non hardened steel one. This one does allow you to use abrasive type filaments.
The more I work on their machines the more I see how they don't want you to work on it.
Hello. Where do I get the white piece, where do I know it is at the entrance of the extruder? Thank you
The heating element? It's from Bambu, it's what heats the hotend.
@@TripasGarage I was asking about the moving piece that connects the hose where the filament enters.
@@CasaTridimensional Oh! I downloaded an STL off printables. www.printables.com/model/350714-bambu-lab-ptfe-guide
@@TripasGarage thanks amigo
This upgrade allows to print harder abrasive materials?
Correct
Does this need to done for every nozzle change?
Depends on what you buy.
You can buy the complete hot end assembly, then a nozzle change is two screws and a unplug/plug operation. Takes less than 30 seconds
can not take the wheel out because a piece of filament stuck , any idea ? : )
Use a hotend screw as a drift on the back of the gear assembly to knock it out from the housing.
Just a few gentle taps should knock it free.
Are you sure that unplugging the power 3 times is enough? I would suggest to also flip the breakers. Blowing up power plant is also recommended.
@@Fresco272 unplugged from power/wall once, turned the breaker switch off once and removed the power cord from the printer once, Good try though. Thanks for watching and commenting.
What are the calibration and tuning you have to do after installing these? Can you make a video about it.
I didn't see anything in the documentation, but ran the standard calibration process anyway. It worked fine immediately afterwards, so I didn't do anything further.
I also changed the nozzle type in the Bambu Studio settings, but I think the only difference there is whether it warns you before you run a spool of abrasive filament through a stainless nozzle.