That is a very nice upgrade. I really like the acrylic/polycarbonate clear visibility from all sides and it looks terrific. I read on the Bambu website that the p1p didn't come with a circuit board fan and they recommend adding one if enclosing the p1p to keep the main board from overheating. They also recommend an exhaust fan with filter when working with ABS or other performance filaments. I think you can also add the x1c bed cooling fan to keep pla from dropping or sagging, but it's probably better and easier to simply pop off the side magnetic panels when working with pla. Such cool upgrades, thanks for the tips. 👍
I have a P1P on order, should arrive in a month, this is the exact path I plan to take... slowly... over time... as I get into 3D printing. already have a fantastic work table for it.
I’m super excited to upcycle my old prusa ikea lack enclosure acrylic sheets and get them cut for the vision enclosure! I didn’t even think about using the glass top super smart, great vid
I think it should be mentioned that if the extruder gear is hard to remove, Bambu Lab has a tool that can be 3D printed to help remove stubborn extruder gears. Mine are always tough to move and I have to use that tool to remove them.
If you are planning on doing this upgrade anyway, I would think you _could_ start printing abrasive filaments using the stock hotend and gears. I wonder how much abrasive filament it would take before you noticed a degradation. About the enclosure, while the X1 has a top flush with the frame, having a few inches above the top of the frame would seem prudent, especially since it'll be getting hotter inside. A little "attic" in the top would keep printing temps more uniform at the extrusion level. Also, you wouldn't have to mess with the filament feeder tube.
Acrylic is flammable and there is a video from US fire department somewhere showing why polycarbonate is far superior. Also when enclosing you need mc fan and possibly the chamber and part cooling fan.
does the cost of the pc for the enclosure cancel out the upgrading price? if the otd price with upgrades is less than $950 this may be alright, but for 1200 you'll get the full on x1c without the ams
It depends on where you source it. If you know someone who could mill the pc or acrylic parts with an cnc or even kindly ask a workshop for leftovers, than it's noticeably cheaper than buying, of course.
I think if enclosing the p1p you'd also want to add a circuit board fan and an exhaust fan+filter. Even so, those prob don't add a huge amount to the total price. For me, i think it's better to go straight for the X1C. These upgrades are great if you already had the P1P.
I have been really happy with it so far. If you have a means to cut the acrylic it will save you quite a bit over using an on demand service. Yeah! I got it back in November and due to weather didnt want to be in the garage much. Finally getting to put some hours into it. Perhaps it will make it into a video with some more info in the future. :)
Seems like all these mods if you buy the glass top for the ams it brings the current difference between x1c combo and p1p w/ams down to near $300 difference maybe less if you have to pay to have the acrylic cut. Unless the x1c doesn't come with the gears and hotend mods already done
The vision enclosure is awesome however, I still got some warping from largish ABS parts so I think there is still a small draft getting in. Hope the XIC(C) will resolve this issue
For me the price difference is big between a p1p and x1, $912 for the p1p and for an x1 without ams $1587, so if I go with a bamboo lab this is a value solution.
Hello, I just bought the P1p and I'm wondering if there's a way to install silent fands like Nokia? Also, do you know if there's a way to make a motors more silent? This would be an excellent printer if you can. Thank you very much.
Too bad you cant buy the lidar hardware too. would be cool to be able to fully upgrade it to match the X1C. I personally like the darker colors on the P1P where I almost want to buy X1C and P1P just to swap the darker plastics.
have you thought about upgrading the P1P to a full X1, It seems to me the difference is the Motherboard that lets you use the better firmware with all the options the X1 has. No one can seem to point me to what is the difference in hardware other then the Motherboard. MC Board - X1 Series $64.99 USD . can you spot what am i missing, all the P1P hardware works with MC board for X1 series..????
Great vid! Any chance you have a link to the filament you used for the enclosure? And printing tips to avoid warping of the taller panels that need to be printed upright?
Hi, I’m totally happy with my p1p. It’s my first 3D printer 😍 Do I really need the nozzle and extruder upgrade? Is there a difference in print quality? Would be nice to give me some tips 😉
The upgrades mentioned are specifically designed and necessary to print abrasive and harder materials. The standard nozzle will wear down if used for abrasive filaments, and the extruded gears also. They won’t really improve quality of pla or petg printing, just enable printing more engineering and exotic materials. One thing that should be noted is filaments like abs and asa need ventilation or very good filtration even if enclosed.
@@richi718 just to add to that - PLA composites like Wood PLA, Marble and especially Glow in the dark are also abrasive ; not as much as Carbon Fibre mix with ABS/PA. But yeah, almost any filament with CF is abrasive and will wear your nozzle down quickly and start chewing away at the extruder gears and lead to inconsistent extrusion.
A part from that extruder hardened gears and hotend and enclosure, what else is worse in p1p than in x1 carbon? Do I need to upgrade anything else to get same performance that is on x1 carbon? I do not care about screen etc, but i have heard that electronics is better on x1 carbone and z screws mounting?
I read that the motherboard doesn't have a fan on the P1P. Do you think it's required to add one (like noctua) to not risk frying it, if you enclose the printer?
With what Settings did you print the vision enclosure. I am printing it on my p1p but it always fails because I think the vibrations make the part fall over. I already have a big brim
What brand of ASA do you use? I am trying to print some medium sized parts and they keep warping with the stock Generic ASA and Bambu Labs ABS settings. I have a cardboard box as an enclosure as well. I am also using Polylite ASA which might be the problem...
Hmm, so 20 for gears, 35 for hotend, 20ish in filament and $25 for acrylic. If you have the means to cut the acrylic yourself it is not bad at all. If you have to pay to have it cut out that can add a fair bit to the cost. I still think this route is a better deal than X1C if you are willing to do the upgrades. I should sit down and do the math when I have a moment.
Just curious for the amount of time and effort to print this enclosure Being that your time is worth something Should just purchase the better bamboo model Just a opinion
I think if you have the budget for it sure having it all considering time is valuable makes sense. However for those that maybe don’t need abs or abrasive right away having the upgrade path is really nice.
Honestly for all those upgrades and just buying the printer it probably would cost about 1000-1200$ it’s just a disgrace for doing this since the X-1 carbon with the ams costs a little more than 1200$ and it’s just sad to lose the LiDAR,camera and the beautiful screen if your going to pay that much you might as well buy x-1 carbon combo
It's cheaper to upgrade the p1p but not by much. I'd rather just pay the full value for the x1-c and actually have full warranty when shipping it back. If you need to warranty your p1p after putting on all the upgrade, you need to take everything off before shipping it back.
I'm just now into the video but wanted to ask this before I forgot. I've been printing in mainly PLA and PETG and I wanted to try higher temp materials. Just started using TPU on my Prusa recently and that is fun. My question: What is the difference in your opinion in printing with ABS vs ASA? Thank you
@@trugbilddrachen I think I'm going to hold out for the ARC. So far it seems to be the only version offering a kit. I can print pieces, I have a printer. I can't print bolts, side panels and magnets though.
@@CB_agotchi its not that bad. Need one m3 bolt kit. I didn’t use the door and with smoked panels it came out great with my corex gunmetal metallic and translucent blood red. Used Bambu top glass.
That printer is a problem for me. I want to buy the P1S but i heard that it does not do PLA very well when the door is closed. If i will be printing PLA 90% of the time i dont want to leave it 90% of the time with the door open cause it will break. Also i do not want to remove the door either because mounting and dismounting all the time well... it will break it. Is it possible to install some kind of case fan so the printer can also be good for PLA with the door closed?
Thanks for sharing, this desk is really superb for 3D printing enthusiasts.
Be sure to use "MB50".
I would like to see video showing setting and tips how to print TPU on the X1 and P1P.
That is a very nice upgrade. I really like the acrylic/polycarbonate clear visibility from all sides and it looks terrific.
I read on the Bambu website that the p1p didn't come with a circuit board fan and they recommend adding one if enclosing the p1p to keep the main board from overheating. They also recommend an exhaust fan with filter when working with ABS or other performance filaments. I think you can also add the x1c bed cooling fan to keep pla from dropping or sagging, but it's probably better and easier to simply pop off the side magnetic panels when working with pla.
Such cool upgrades, thanks for the tips. 👍
I have a P1P on order, should arrive in a month, this is the exact path I plan to take... slowly... over time... as I get into 3D printing. already have a fantastic work table for it.
I’m super excited to upcycle my old prusa ikea lack enclosure acrylic sheets and get them cut for the vision enclosure! I didn’t even think about using the glass top super smart, great vid
These Bambulab printers are remarkable. Best purchase I have made in years.
I think it should be mentioned that if the extruder gear is hard to remove, Bambu Lab has a tool that can be 3D printed to help remove stubborn extruder gears. Mine are always tough to move and I have to use that tool to remove them.
This is a stunning printer and you are right the spare parts pricing is a super value!
Thanks for the video, I have the Bambu lab P1P on order, can’t wait to receive it.
Thanks for adding the speeds and feeds for the acrylic.
If you are planning on doing this upgrade anyway, I would think you _could_ start printing abrasive filaments using the stock hotend and gears. I wonder how much abrasive filament it would take before you noticed a degradation. About the enclosure, while the X1 has a top flush with the frame, having a few inches above the top of the frame would seem prudent, especially since it'll be getting hotter inside. A little "attic" in the top would keep printing temps more uniform at the extrusion level. Also, you wouldn't have to mess with the filament feeder tube.
Acrylic is flammable and there is a video from US fire department somewhere showing why polycarbonate is far superior. Also when enclosing you need mc fan and possibly the chamber and part cooling fan.
Great video as always
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us 🙂
Thank you Asger. Have a lovely weekend.
does the cost of the pc for the enclosure cancel out the upgrading price? if the otd price with upgrades is less than $950 this may be alright, but for 1200 you'll get the full on x1c without the ams
It depends on where you source it. If you know someone who could mill the pc or acrylic parts with an cnc or even kindly ask a workshop for leftovers, than it's noticeably cheaper than buying, of course.
I think if enclosing the p1p you'd also want to add a circuit board fan and an exhaust fan+filter. Even so, those prob don't add a huge amount to the total price.
For me, i think it's better to go straight for the X1C.
These upgrades are great if you already had the P1P.
Did the same thing. Good set up.
Awesome, been thinking about buying a second x1c. This might be a good option.
I didnt know you had a Shapeoko, would love to see a video on it!!
I have been really happy with it so far. If you have a means to cut the acrylic it will save you quite a bit over using an on demand service. Yeah! I got it back in November and due to weather didnt want to be in the garage much. Finally getting to put some hours into it.
Perhaps it will make it into a video with some more info in the future. :)
Very detailed - I like. I appreciate you even included tips on how to do things the easiest.
Thanks for your kind words on the Vision enclosure. Shout out to Josh Murrah as well :)
Heyyyy, Joe Spanier is the man! Great seeing he's still around helping people with 3D printing. XD
Thank you! I'm definitely going to do these upgrades for mine when I get it.
Honestly i dont think these upgrades are necessary, but are highly recommended
This reminds me of the old joke, "Too expensive, I could build that... for only twice the price"
The AMS still isn't hardened steel right? I was pretty sure they say your not supposed to run abrasives through the AMS because of that.
So how mutch is now the difference between x1c and P1P with all this upgrades? Did you really save money?
Seems like all these mods if you buy the glass top for the ams it brings the current difference between x1c combo and p1p w/ams down to near $300 difference maybe less if you have to pay to have the acrylic cut. Unless the x1c doesn't come with the gears and hotend mods already done
Hehehehehe lifting Table, we all get older! Good Video too, but the Table hook me up!
You can use code "MB50"，enjoy the lowest price ever!
Thanks for sharing man!
The vision enclosure is awesome however, I still got some warping from largish ABS parts so I think there is still a small draft getting in. Hope the XIC(C) will resolve this issue
For me the price difference is big between a p1p and x1, $912 for the p1p and for an x1 without ams $1587, so if I go with a bamboo lab this is a value solution.
Hello, I just bought the P1p and I'm wondering if there's a way to install silent fands like Nokia? Also, do you know if there's a way to make a motors more silent? This would be an excellent printer if you can. Thank you very much.
Too bad you cant buy the lidar hardware too. would be cool to be able to fully upgrade it to match the X1C. I personally like the darker colors on the P1P where I almost want to buy X1C and P1P just to swap the darker plastics.
have you thought about upgrading the P1P to a full X1, It seems to me the difference is the Motherboard that lets you use the better firmware with all the options the X1 has. No one can seem to point me to what is the difference in hardware other then the Motherboard. MC Board - X1 Series $64.99 USD
. can you spot what am i missing, all the P1P hardware works with MC board for X1 series..????
Great vid! Any chance you have a link to the filament you used for the enclosure? And printing tips to avoid warping of the taller panels that need to be printed upright?
can i just mod it with enclosure to print abs without changing the nozzle and gears?
The Prinatables Vision Enclosure only has 2 files, 2 small corner pieces...Am I missing something?
Where do I find the printable cable chain I got the file in ur link but I don't see the chain just the mounts and stuff
this looks great.. Good channel!
Great video, do you have to remove some panels when printing PLA ? thx
You can just open the door and you‘re good to go. We do the same, where i work. And it works totally fine!
so can u print the same quality of carbon filled with this machine , as you could with the X1? after the upgrades?
Are you going to go into more on your CNC in another video ??
Hi, I’m totally happy with my p1p. It’s my first 3D printer 😍
Do I really need the nozzle and extruder upgrade? Is there a difference in print quality? Would be nice to give me some tips 😉
Also curious about this
The upgrades mentioned are specifically designed and necessary to print abrasive and harder materials. The standard nozzle will wear down if used for abrasive filaments, and the extruded gears also. They won’t really improve quality of pla or petg printing, just enable printing more engineering and exotic materials. One thing that should be noted is filaments like abs and asa need ventilation or very good filtration even if enclosed.
@@lifson22 thx, this was the answer I was looking for :)
@@richi718 just to add to that - PLA composites like Wood PLA, Marble and especially Glow in the dark are also abrasive ; not as much as Carbon Fibre mix with ABS/PA. But yeah, almost any filament with CF is abrasive and will wear your nozzle down quickly and start chewing away at the extruder gears and lead to inconsistent extrusion.
@@TheCyberSpidey thx for that answer!
How well do the pop tent style enclosures work for higher temp materials?
What are the benefits of the hardened gears upgrade?
A part from that extruder hardened gears and hotend and enclosure, what else is worse in p1p than in x1 carbon? Do I need to upgrade anything else to get same performance that is on x1 carbon? I do not care about screen etc, but i have heard that electronics is better on x1 carbone and z screws mounting?
It will allow me to print with carbon fibre correct?
I read that the motherboard doesn't have a fan on the P1P. Do you think it's required to add one (like noctua) to not risk frying it, if you enclose the printer?
With what Settings did you print the vision enclosure. I am printing it on my p1p but it always fails because I think the vibrations make the part fall over. I already have a big brim
What type of vent or filter are you using? I have seen others using carbon filters but curious if you are venting or running filters. Thanks
Love it
What brand of ASA do you use? I am trying to print some medium sized parts and they keep warping with the stock Generic ASA and Bambu Labs ABS settings. I have a cardboard box as an enclosure as well. I am also using Polylite ASA which might be the problem...
Does the grommet on the top of the tool head where the cable is for the chain just pop out? Or do you have to take the whole head apart?
You need to join Jim Edgeworth - Edge of Tech for his only desk club
Haha I bought one of his edge of desk shirts. I should have worn it for the ad 😂
@@ModBotArmy We will have to get him to watch your ad, and tell him that is the desk he needs.
That would be the total cost? Wondering if it's worth doing this or just buying the X1C if one doesn't need the lidar anyway
Hmm, so 20 for gears, 35 for hotend, 20ish in filament and $25 for acrylic. If you have the means to cut the acrylic yourself it is not bad at all. If you have to pay to have it cut out that can add a fair bit to the cost. I still think this route is a better deal than X1C if you are willing to do the upgrades. I should sit down and do the math when I have a moment.
@@ModBotArmy Where did you actually get the acrylic for 25$
@@xnitropunkx Amazon it was 2 sheets for $50 and it only took 1. Let me see if I can find the link.
@@xnitropunkx amzn.to/3ESht7V this is what I used. Will definitely be using this for future projects.
@@ModBotArmy Ah ya would be well over 80$ if I ordered that in canada. Thanks for providing the link though
Just curious for the amount of time and effort to print this enclosure Being that your time is worth something Should just purchase the better bamboo model Just a opinion
I think if you have the budget for it sure having it all considering time is valuable makes sense. However for those that maybe don’t need abs or abrasive right away having the upgrade path is really nice.
@@ModBotArmy Personly the pip is perfect. I only print pla petg lwpla tpu
Perfect!
where do you buy your inserts from?
Honestly for all those upgrades and just buying the printer it probably would cost about 1000-1200$ it’s just a disgrace for doing this since the X-1 carbon with the ams costs a little more than 1200$ and it’s just sad to lose the LiDAR,camera and the beautiful screen if your going to pay that much you might as well buy x-1 carbon combo
Exhaust fan with the enclosure?
There is not but I see no reason why it couldn’t be added.
Is it cheaper to upgrade the p1p instead of getting the x1 carbon? Which do yiu preffer?
It's cheaper to upgrade the p1p but not by much. I'd rather just pay the full value for the x1-c and actually have full warranty when shipping it back. If you need to warranty your p1p after putting on all the upgrade, you need to take everything off before shipping it back.
65 euros + shipping from germany for the enclosure panels? Hell nahhhhhhhhhh
You probably have somewhere local that can cut them out for you
I'm just now into the video but wanted to ask this before I forgot.
I've been printing in mainly PLA and PETG and I wanted to try higher temp materials. Just started using TPU on my Prusa recently and that is fun.
My question:
What is the difference in your opinion in printing with ABS vs ASA?
Thank you
can‘t find the ams mounts, do you have any link? thanx in advance
Ams mounts? The ones from Bambu? The ones for the enclosure?
@@ModBotArmy sorry, not native speaking english and chose the wrong word. i meant the holders/stands between the p1p and the AMS
the red ones in the video at 6.51 🙂
Vision enclosure or Arc enclosure... 🤔🤔🤔
I ended up with the ARC. Like the looks personally.
@@trugbilddrachen I think I'm going to hold out for the ARC. So far it seems to be the only version offering a kit. I can print pieces, I have a printer. I can't print bolts, side panels and magnets though.
@@CB_agotchi its not that bad. Need one m3 bolt kit. I didn’t use the door and with smoked panels it came out great with my corex gunmetal metallic and translucent blood red. Used Bambu top glass.
Tip make the part where u talk about the sponsor twice as long so we all need to skip to death
Just another afiliate channel,misleading title,no love for you son
That printer is a problem for me. I want to buy the P1S but i heard that it does not do PLA very well when the door is closed. If i will be printing PLA 90% of the time i dont want to leave it 90% of the time with the door open cause it will break. Also i do not want to remove the door either because mounting and dismounting all the time well... it will break it. Is it possible to install some kind of case fan so the printer can also be good for PLA with the door closed?