It's true. Kirk doesn't give me shit for free. He does throw in a discount here or there for my own personal cars, but no freebies. I've been begging him for freebies though. Even putting the first interchiller on the C8 he didn't send me a freebie! What gives Kirk!
Just being up front and Honest I think you are the best at what you do...because you ate straight up front and to the point. Thanks for the great video. T-Man
Wish I had that chiller system when I took my 2017 C7 Z06 to "wanna go fast" 1/2 mile event in Ocala, FL. Very 1st run and it shuts down at the 1/4 mile mark. I thought the 17' had the heat problem fixed....NOT! If I still had the car it would be at your place for that terrific fix!!! And I like your videos. Keep publishing!!!
It would have also been interesting to see warm pulls with the AC turned off on the chiller car so you then have a comparison of chiller on and chiller off and heatsoaked on the same vehicle.
Yes.. I couldn't even dyno mine when it was bone stock. It heat soaked so badly just idling and getting loaded on the dyno... ambient temp was 72.. 150 intake Temps. I dyno'd 535 515 and 495 smh. Waste of an hour. These cars NEED them
There is a speed shop here in virginia beach. DTP racing. This guy Brent Huges is on of the best tuners in the US. Andrew and him have a lot in common. Not many tuners like you and Brent.
For road course we retain the heat exchanger on a bypass valve which is temperature controlled splitting your intercooler fluid 50/50 (chiller/heat exchanger). Depending on driver talent, the track and how much heat the blower/turbo produces the heat exchanger becomes necessary for cooling as you heat up your stored fluid volume that the chiller is able to provide. The chillers "job" is to make a tank of fluid freezing cold. The tank of fluids "job" is to provide enough fluid volume so that your entire time spent at wide open throttle you are supplying a constant -15f to 32f fluid to the intercooler. As example you would install a 1.5-3gal reservoir buying you fluid volume so that you are then able to supply a constant temperature of fluid for X-amount of time....with circuit racing as you are on the throttle so often, based on driver talent, the track and how much heat the blower/turbo produces the heat exchanger might be needed for additional cooling. Then when the fluid temps drop below the outside air temp the heat exchanger will automatically be bypassed out of the system and the chiller will be in control of 100% of the cooling again vs the 50/50 split (heat exchanger/chiller).
Do you guys remove the heat exchanger with the FI kit? Seems like the heat exchanger would just heat up the fluid a lot and combat the hard work of the FI.
Andrew/Eric, what are your thoughts on people criticizing the interchillers because of the excessive amount of condensation (for safety reasons)? I have heard that some tracks won't allow you to run once dripping a noticeable amount of water onto the track. I also wanted to ask about the AC cutting of at WOT, is that a thing?
We use braided lines to stop condensation from dripping. Haven't had any issue that way. AC does cut off at full throttle, so you need to make sure you have capacity for the entire pull you plan to do.
Blower running hot I have never seen over 120 iat charge air on my Edelbrock 2650. 130 charge temp is dangerous that’s when the tune should pull back to save the motor.
@@completestreetperformance I have a 6th gen ZL1 would i have to add some kind of condensation insulation to my front mount cordes tank aswell? and a stage 1 would be more than enough right? no need for stage 2?
Stage 1 is enough. I had great success in 100 degree heat with it. Stage 2 would make it better for sure though. We use braided line to stop condensation from dripping to the ground. Every kit we sell comes with the competition valve so you can dedicate the refrigerant to the chiller - and keep the condensation to those parts as well. The 6th gen Camaro is bolt together, no cutting of the ac system required. It's a tough install though.
@@JLSpeed If you want a plug n play interchiller for your 6th gen Zl1, highly highly recommend the WeaponX Boost Chiller. Check it out. I think it is the better option. It gets rid of only 1 of the smaller oem heat exchangers and keeps the other 2.
yes but the trick is to have the intercooler fluid capacity big enough so that the fluid only circulates 1 time according to the type of racing you do. A street car would be 1.5+ gallon, 1/4 mile would be about 3 and 1/2 mile-1 mile would be closer to 5 gallon. Depends on the pump and it's actual flow in your car as installed. The less laps the coolant makes during your run.....the cooler the IAT will be.
Run out of fuel for the most part lol. But when you have it, they do really really good. Although in this case we would keep the power capped at the same level to keep longevity.
Don’t let these kits fool you, there not good for daily driving. They are only good for dyno sessions and 1/4 miles passes. They pull higher MAT then factory with continuous driving and kill power.
So your “stage 5” package that includes heads cam and also 2650 upgrade is only putting down 805 and 845 respectively? That seems pretty unimpressive since RPM is doing a stage 4 (no blower upgrade) with just a ported blower to the heads/cam package and getting 900rwhp on an A8.
We don't do "stages". Also, not an apples to apples comparison as this is without meth injection or E85. Just 93 octane. Nothing else to worry about. No E mix to get wrong. If it had meth injection and/or E85 it would have made 900+ SAE (which reads lower than STD - the correction factor RPM uses). Also we cap the power on the stock engine in the 800-850 range for longevity, even though that setup could produce much more. After that it's a shit show in terms of engine reliability. The Magnuson has far better cooling than the factory blower. It will stay near the same power from the starting line to the finish line thanks to the big intercooler bricks which is something a factory blower can't do. So even at the same dyno numbers, the Magnuson will out perform because it will stay consistent. However, we aren't building cars for dyno queen numbers. While it's nice, a max effort build means you get one pass before it breaks. We don't build those here. And we don't dyno like that here either. The most we do in terms of good dyno numbers is give the car a cool down. I hope that answers your question.
Don’t let these kits fool you, there not good for daily driving. They are only good for dyno sessions and 1/4 miles passes. They pull higher MAT then factory with continuous driving and kill power.
Don’t let these kits fool you, there not good for daily driving. They are only good for dyno sessions and 1/4 miles passes. They pull higher MAT then factory with continuous driving and kill power.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Awesome video CSP
Someone is getting sponsored 😈
@@johnhowl6827 CSP just love our products, none of the CSP cars have been sponsored
It's true. Kirk doesn't give me shit for free. He does throw in a discount here or there for my own personal cars, but no freebies. I've been begging him for freebies though. Even putting the first interchiller on the C8 he didn't send me a freebie! What gives Kirk!
@@completestreetperformance Gees you don’t have to murder me for it lol 😂
Where do you mount these on the C7 z06?
Love how detailed he is on the tuning.. Knowing numbers is everything.. That's the difference between good techs and Great techs
I love those wheels on the white C7. Love, love, love.
Just being up front and Honest I think you are the best at what you do...because you ate straight up front and to the point. Thanks for the great video. T-Man
Wish I had that chiller system when I took my 2017 C7 Z06 to "wanna go fast" 1/2 mile event in Ocala, FL. Very 1st run and it shuts down at the 1/4 mile mark. I thought the 17' had the heat problem fixed....NOT! If I still had the car it would be at your place for that terrific fix!!! And I like your videos. Keep publishing!!!
Stock or modded?
Mine reduced power at 150MPH sucks!
It would have also been interesting to see warm pulls with the AC turned off on the chiller car so you then have a comparison of chiller on and chiller off and heatsoaked on the same vehicle.
This guy knows what he's doing. Good work.
I was cracking up on you're intro! Funny stuff!!
Add 3 coolers for track work works also
Do u recommend, The inter chiller for bone stock Z06’s?
Yes.. I couldn't even dyno mine when it was bone stock. It heat soaked so badly just idling and getting loaded on the dyno... ambient temp was 72.. 150 intake Temps. I dyno'd 535 515 and 495 smh. Waste of an hour. These cars NEED them
@@AverageTrackRat I live in PR, so normal day is 90f…. Still my stock c7 made 574whp intake temp around 140f. You definitely have other issues
@@lehmancamarodefinitely what other issues?
Keep up the great work guys! Very under rated channel
just subscribed from Fresno CA. keep the c7 videos coming. great work, great education your giving.
Definitely doing this to my C7 Z06
There is a speed shop here in virginia beach. DTP racing. This guy Brent Huges is on of the best tuners in the US. Andrew and him have a lot in common. Not many tuners like you and Brent.
Website says Race Track Safe, but in the video not for road course?
For road course we retain the heat exchanger on a bypass valve which is temperature controlled splitting your intercooler fluid 50/50 (chiller/heat exchanger).
Depending on driver talent, the track and how much heat the blower/turbo produces the heat exchanger becomes necessary for cooling as you heat up your stored fluid volume that the chiller is able to provide.
The chillers "job" is to make a tank of fluid freezing cold.
The tank of fluids "job" is to provide enough fluid volume so that your entire time spent at wide open throttle you are supplying a constant -15f to 32f fluid to the intercooler.
As example you would install a 1.5-3gal reservoir buying you fluid volume so that you are then able to supply a constant temperature of fluid for X-amount of time....with circuit racing as you are on the throttle so often, based on driver talent, the track and how much heat the blower/turbo produces the heat exchanger might be needed for additional cooling. Then when the fluid temps drop below the outside air temp the heat exchanger will automatically be bypassed out of the system and the chiller will be in control of 100% of the cooling again vs the 50/50 split (heat exchanger/chiller).
@@ForcedInductionInterchillers Thank you for the detailed reply. Can I call you to ask a few more questions? If so who should I ask for?
@@MichaelGreco Please call between 9am and 5pm Monday to Friday (Sydney time zone) best person to speak to is Kirk
Streetspeed717 needs a interchiller
I thought he got one on the ZR1 but I could be mistaken
Another classic from CSP.
GIF image of Brick Tamland, "I love interchiller."
What's the deal with that spice red GTO roller!?
You know your craft dude. Impressive!
How much for head cams 2016 camaro ss ?
Do you guys remove the heat exchanger with the FI kit? Seems like the heat exchanger would just heat up the fluid a lot and combat the hard work of the FI.
Was this stage 1 or 2 of the interchiller?
That is Freekn awesome!! No doubt the best mod! I need this for my 2010 GT500 is that possible??
What is the “stealth” baby upgraded camshaft? Which one is that?
if you cant use this for road course races...whats the point? what other solutions are available?
Awesome so the big cam vettes extra 40hp is just the difference in cams?
Yes and I think it was manual. I honestly forget now lol
@@completestreetperformance well it was 2 days ago
Not when filmed lol
First one , white one was manual.
I'll sell you a real nice V Coupe! Install interchiller and off to LS fest you go!!!!!
Any deals on the chillers ?
Andrew/Eric, what are your thoughts on people criticizing the interchillers because of the excessive amount of condensation (for safety reasons)? I have heard that some tracks won't allow you to run once dripping a noticeable amount of water onto the track. I also wanted to ask about the AC cutting of at WOT, is that a thing?
We use braided lines to stop condensation from dripping. Haven't had any issue that way. AC does cut off at full throttle, so you need to make sure you have capacity for the entire pull you plan to do.
RUclips now highlights the subscribe button when you mention it. Never noticed that
Blower running hot I have never seen over 120 iat charge air on my Edelbrock 2650. 130 charge temp is dangerous that’s when the tune should pull back to save the motor.
Getting famous off of comments day 359, so I can live the dream, live every day like it’s your last🤙🚀
so what product to buy and where to buy it ?
CSPracing.com and search interchiller
I need one of these on my Trackhawk, the IAT’s are terrible at 20 psi.
We can help!
@@completestreetperformance I’m in Texas so a little far for install but I might order one from you.
Is the FI interchiller a bolt on afair? would you be able to remove it and return it to stock?
On most cars yes. Some will require fittings to be installed. However lines are replaceable if needed. Although personally I would just cap.
@@completestreetperformance I have a 6th gen ZL1 would i have to add some kind of condensation insulation to my front mount cordes tank aswell? and a stage 1 would be more than enough right? no need for stage 2?
Stage 1 is enough. I had great success in 100 degree heat with it. Stage 2 would make it better for sure though.
We use braided line to stop condensation from dripping to the ground.
Every kit we sell comes with the competition valve so you can dedicate the refrigerant to the chiller - and keep the condensation to those parts as well.
The 6th gen Camaro is bolt together, no cutting of the ac system required. It's a tough install though.
@@completestreetperformance Thanks for the response! Interchiller definitely seems to be the way to go!
@@JLSpeed If you want a plug n play interchiller for your 6th gen Zl1, highly highly recommend the WeaponX Boost Chiller. Check it out. I think it is the better option. It gets rid of only 1 of the smaller oem heat exchangers and keeps the other 2.
you should LS swap your plaid
I don't want to go that slow lol
@@completestreetperformance Ahahaha, i can hook you up with CSP they build mean engines
Doesn’t the ac clutch disengage at wot ?
yes but the trick is to have the intercooler fluid capacity big enough so that the fluid only circulates 1 time according to the type of racing you do. A street car would be 1.5+ gallon, 1/4 mile would be about 3 and 1/2 mile-1 mile would be closer to 5 gallon. Depends on the pump and it's actual flow in your car as installed. The less laps the coolant makes during your run.....the cooler the IAT will be.
Great information from CSP🤘🤘
Gonna send you my ctsv I already make 800+ with ice tank but iats still get to 140at the top of 4th …… yes all the pulley
Would you recommend the same thing with ZL1's?
I haven't heard zl1s having heating issues
@@StockCarGuy Interesting, asking because they're the same blower in different bodys
@@imluigi9696 only thing I’ve seen improved on the zl1s r the intake, plus I think the reasoning behind it is the Camaro has a larger front end
@@StockCarGuy Yeah you're right it does have a big grill for more air, awesome thanks for the feedback 👍
2 pivots in one video,you should add a circle back.
Is this on e85?
93 octane only
@@completestreetperformance wow that’s crazy. Wonder what these cars would do on E?
I need one of these on my hellcat lol
Run out of fuel for the most part lol. But when you have it, they do really really good. Although in this case we would keep the power capped at the same level to keep longevity.
How much$
Won't meth injection cool the air charge? Are these cars using water/meth?
Anyway the interchiller is nice no doubt 'bout it. So, water meth?
Cooooooooool
Don’t let these kits fool you, there not good for daily driving. They are only good for dyno sessions and 1/4 miles passes. They pull higher MAT then factory with continuous driving and kill power.
Kong 2650 that ctsv
So your “stage 5” package that includes heads cam and also 2650 upgrade is only putting down 805 and 845 respectively? That seems pretty unimpressive since RPM is doing a stage 4 (no blower upgrade) with just a ported blower to the heads/cam package and getting 900rwhp on an A8.
We don't do "stages". Also, not an apples to apples comparison as this is without meth injection or E85. Just 93 octane. Nothing else to worry about. No E mix to get wrong. If it had meth injection and/or E85 it would have made 900+ SAE (which reads lower than STD - the correction factor RPM uses). Also we cap the power on the stock engine in the 800-850 range for longevity, even though that setup could produce much more. After that it's a shit show in terms of engine reliability.
The Magnuson has far better cooling than the factory blower. It will stay near the same power from the starting line to the finish line thanks to the big intercooler bricks which is something a factory blower can't do. So even at the same dyno numbers, the Magnuson will out perform because it will stay consistent.
However, we aren't building cars for dyno queen numbers. While it's nice, a max effort build means you get one pass before it breaks. We don't build those here. And we don't dyno like that here either. The most we do in terms of good dyno numbers is give the car a cool down.
I hope that answers your question.
Only fix is lithium 😂
No neck. Sheesh
Necks comment please
Holy Shit?!? Talking about a real car for once…
Heat soak🙄imagine heat soak on a 100* day🤦♂️
Another (Button) butcher🤮
Don’t let these kits fool you, there not good for daily driving. They are only good for dyno sessions and 1/4 miles passes. They pull higher MAT then factory with continuous driving and kill power.
Don’t let these kits fool you, there not good for daily driving. They are only good for dyno sessions and 1/4 miles passes. They pull higher MAT then factory with continuous driving and kill power.