Update: I upgraded my airbrush setup so I now have a compressor with a storage tank - it is considerably more controllable regarding pressure output, and is much quieter. For those of you who are torn between the product in the video above - it is generally fine - but I have had better results with my newer compressor with storage tank. Yes they are a little more expensive but they are worth the extra investment. The portable compressor featured in this video is still in my modelling supplies, and to date, still works. But that being said, I don't use it very often as I have my other compressor now. The product above is good for learning the basics, but I very quickly found myself moving on to better equipment, so in my opinion - if airbrushing is something you know you definitely want to do, i'd look at the better compressors from the start. I hope this helps
Paint bleed is always something to watch out for. One way to minimise it is after masking you do a light coat of the previous colour. That way any paint that does bleed under the tape will be the same colour as the colour you have masked off. It also forms a seal so when you put on the next colour there shouldn't be any more paint bleed.
Cleaning after use is an absolute MUST or else the bits will gum up. I have been using solvent based paints that need a lot of thinning but it's worth taking a long time to disassemble, clean and putting back together and leaving with neat thinners in the cup after spraying some through the nozzle. Always wear a mask !!
I recommend you to put that moisture trap on the end of the airbrush and not the compressor. The trap needs to be vertical, so the moisture doesn't flow back into the compressor or hose. Also, it is easier to let the moisture out that way and it makes a great extended grip. Although don't grab on to it too much as if it gets too warm from your hand the condensation won't form and the water will get into the airbrush. Sadly this is something we have to deal with if you have a compressor without a tank. I have two traps, one on the compressor end and the same that you have on the airbrush end. Although I do have a bigger compressor. Well done on the Spitfire. Turned out really nice. The biggest difference you will see when you're going to do mottling and other camo types with soft edges, which are much harder with a brush.
@@dfar2303 I got a cheap airbrush with one built in under the nozzle. Just a small screw valve. You can't effectively tell the pressure but after a while you get the hang of it anyway. I test the pressure on my palm and set it accordingly.
What a beautifully finished aircraft! I am ready to make the move from single action to dual-action airbrushing. Thanks for the motivation. Thanks for your time in making this great video.
I have pretty much the exact same set (It was cheaper, so didn't include as many goodies). The compressor switches to continuous running at 20psi (The ideal pressure for airbrushing I was told), so if you slowly increase the pressure until it starts running continuously, you'll be set just so. I roll it back slightly for somewhere around 18psi. At full pressure, the poor little thing does have to work quite hard, but at the lower pressures, it's nowhere near as loud. I found it can get quite warm after about half an hour. Not enough to overheat, or cut out, or offer a danger of burning yourself, but the case is warm to the touch. I always hesitated to start airbrushing because of the apparent cost of entry, I was once told a 'beginner' setup needed an £150 airbrush and an £80 compressor, which got a hard 'No' from me. I later decided to chance it with one of these sets. I'm fully aware it won't last as long or do as many clever things are the more expensive offering, but as a kit to learn from, it's perfect and I've been really pleased with the results I've been able to achieve and am quite pleased at being able to add another skill to my bowstring. I would even call this little set portable, the box mine came in will happily transport the brush, compressor, hose, power cable and basic mixing and cleaning tools .
Great video! i bought the same set up off amazon probably over two years ago now. it was the first airbrush i have ever had, been making models on and off for over 30 years. I wasn't expecting miracles or for it to last. But suprisingly its still going strong! its had cellulose thinners through it to clean it, enamel and water based paints and used it to touch up a stone chip with old fashioned coach enamel. Just give it a complete strip down every now and then and it keeps going.
Interesting review and a really nice build! I tried an airbrush even cheaper than this one a couple of years ago but could never really get used to it. Especially as a small house and small children made opportunities to use it rare. I've since adapted to using spray cans which suit me but I think in the future I'd like an airbrush again.
Thanks! 👍 Yes, spray cans are useful and I have used them in a number of my builds. I'm actually looking to upgrade my airbrush in the near future for something a little more robust - a compressor with an airtank would be great!
Valejo can spray straight from the bottle. Which allows you to use just a few drops of paint. Needle, nozzle and jet size are chosen for paint particle size. If it doesn't spray without thinning, change the jet or needle, and the air pressure. Humbrol enamel wants to be thinned 7:3 from a new tinlet, maybe a little more more thinners if the tinlet has been opened a while. Stir the stuff for at least twice as long as you think it needs, use one of those motorised whizzers.
Nice video! We all started somewhere. I started with a cheap Chinese knock-off of a Badger 155. It's still working. Those cleaning brushes you got and show at 4:50? Do not use them to clean inside the airbrush, especially inside the nozzle. They will scratch the inside of the nozzle, and then the needle will not seat properly, causing all sorts of problems. I watched an interview with Ken Schlotfeldt, the owner and president of Badger Airbrush company, and he said they have service request quite often from people who have used those brushes inside their nozzles. The only fix is a new nozzle, and Badger won't cover that under warranty. Use a pipe cleaner or an interdental brush (that's what we call them in the States, not sure what they are called in the UK).
I started airbrushing with a similar set by Shesto with a single action airbrush. It was a great start to experiment. That is the most important thing: experiment, fail, learn, re-do. And have fun!
@@ModelMinutes more of a physical work area sadly gotten fed up crouching over coffee table lol. Some of my builds have been part built and stored. You know yourself sometimes no matter how big the kit is space build is nice.
Thank you very much for your video. I've returned to modelling after retiring and have been looking at getting an airbrush and this might just fit the bill.
My first airbrush set was a small set like this. Totally spot on about how loud they are though, the only downside to it. But to be honest, after a while you get used to it it's the rest of the family that complains. So as a starter set. Brilliant starting point.
Nice vid thanks Matt, I always wondered about the all in one entry level sets from the web. A few thoughts; The selection of nozzles and needles are good , perhaps giving folks a chance to try out a selection of sizes , finding what they like before upgrading. The moisture trap is often placed below the airbrush and some people like the extra grip it gives. Either way both works and its a nice addition to see in a budget set. The compressor is my biggest gripe but for the money you can't really complain. I dont see it putting out enough consistent pressure and I dont think it will last very long. That being said its cheaper than canisters in the long run. Also unless you go for a tank compressor where the air isn't constantly on you'll get a racket. Mine started quiet but has got louder over time and that was a premium one. Tank is the way to go for quiet, but they can be a bit dearer. For budget ones somewhere like Bartsharp airbrushes in the UK might be a good place to try. Im stoked you joined the club and glad you got it to a a happy level on the model. As you know there is lots to learn and I cant stress that just spending time drawing lines and mottles at different pressures on some shiny card ( to emulate plastic) will help the learning curve a lot. Once your used to the processes its becomes second nature. Good luck !
Nice video. I've been using the exact same airbrush Aerograph AG-152 (7cc cup) and a smaller cousin of it AG-136B (2cc cup). They've both worked great for the last 4+ years that I've been airbrushing, despite being tagged as the "cheap chinese" product on many forums. I've not faced a single problem with it except for my own fault where I cleaned my airbrush with the crude turpentine thus ruining the o-ring seals. The only downside to this airbrush is that its tough to find o-rings. Other than that they're great. So congratulations and welcome to the world of airbrushing. Hope to see many more nice models from you. Cheers
@@ModelMinutes Water and IPA work fine as cleaners. I've made my own home-made airbrush cleaner with a glass cleaner+water,+IPA+glycerine mixture and its also served the purpose of cleaning this airbrush pretty well
October 20th 2020... I have a airbrush... a BADGER 350 model...had it for 30 years...it does ok... better with ENAMELS...ACRYLICS tend to set up and start drying in the tip...usually need to keep the tip/ needle moist... but I’m in the market for a new one ACRYLICS are good because you can use water for clean- up... for ENAMELS I use mineral spirits only for clean-up... use thinners compatible with the enamels I’m using... No matter what , airbrushing is fun practice practice practice... thanks for the review... always enjoy your site... take care CHRIS from the USA
I really want to get into airbrushing but it's so daunting with all the different prices and information out there. Thanks for these videos...I think I'll kick off with a cheap one and see how I get on .
Came across your vid buy browsing I had the same set up as yourself but my airbrush just packed in after a couple week so upgraded to a iwata neo airbrush they are alot better the compressor is still going strong 💪
Love my Iwata HP-BCs and SilentAir compressor. One thing I started experimenting with is an air eraser, a low pressure dust huffer and a dust control box all purchased used on Ebay. The air eraser is like a mini sand or bead blaster and can be used to removed old paint when chemical paint stripping wont work on model paint mistakes.
This seems like a really good deal for 60 pounds. I hope the seals on the airbrush hold up! What I noticed from my 3 years of experience with airbrushing is that you can get away with a cheap set on matt paints (military vehicles etc.) and they can be painted at a nice quality with a cheap product, but when it comes to lacquor paints, especially glossy one (racing cars etc.) a quality airbrush and compressor really make a huge difference. Glossy paints (especially clear coats) really need a high quality nozzel and exact pressure regulation with very even airflow. That's why I bit my tongue and bought a Harder and Steenbeck for an absurd amount of money, plus a higher quality compressor and of course Gunze and Hataka paints.
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Augustus If you can, try Sparmax airbrushes. I couldn’t justify three figure airbrushes and sparmax are great. I now use Hataka lacquers and love them.
I have exactly the same one. However, when I got it, it didn't work well. Hardly no paint came out. I disassembled it, and the truth was; the 3 airholes in the nozzle were drilled, but not quiet the whole way, some metal "discs" remained at the end of the holes, and I had to poke them out. Very naughty! Then I polished the needle to a mirror shine. After all that everything worked perfectly. Next time I buy a Badger. I had a Badger airbrush for 40 years, never malfunctioned.
Sounds like the quality control in the factory had a day off when yours was made. I'll be looking at upgrading to a better airbrush/compressor in the future but for now this one seems to be doing ok
Been nervous about getting an airbrush, I bought an Iwata some years ago, but never bought a compressor for it. Thanks for sharing this set, just bought it, hopefully I can learn to get over my fears.
Just getting back into plastic model building, and I guess at my advanced age :) I am going to try airbrushing. Thanks for the informative review video.
I used to own that compressor. Tbh it's more a source of frustration than anything good. It overheats after some time and you can't paint anymore. I switched to a compressor with a tank. I can't remember the name tho. Doesn't mean you can't do anything good with it. You can get pretty good results. But you better be really patient. PS: Nice painting on the Spitfire
Great video mate, it popped up in my recommendations and reminded me that I need to do more airfix, I've bought the d day air assault kit and I still need to finish my gannet aew3
I think the clips are for holding the things you are painting I often see other people spay paint using clips to hold the part or runners and the clips are on the end of wooden sticks that are held up with a styrofoam block but I’m not sure if these clips can be mounted on sticks though but this is probably the idea behind including them
Great review and some nice model-making!👍😊 As another poster said the moisture trap needs repositioning, but in reality probably not a huge difference to be made 😉😊
Buy a h&s Ultra with a proper compressor. This will catch on fire, and the airbrush is not a good quality one. This option may seem a lot cheaper, but you will want to replace these things after a few models. Ask me how I know it.
@@ModelMinutes If you buy a good compressor with an air tank, and a not chinese airbrush, and after that you realise that you don't want to airbrush, just sell it. And for example you need to buy once a H&S airbrush, and it will last forever. And it's also easier to clean and to work with.
You can get the same kit without the measuring stuff but you do get the rest on Ali Express for £32 although you will wait for delivery up to 28 days, there are loads of versions of this, the compressor is an OEM that other companies put their logo on, you have to be careful though some of the compressors are not compatible with dual action and this is explained in the manual although some are sold with the dual-action airbrush.
I bought a similar drvice for about £40. Didn't come with all the different nozzles or all extras but gloves, pipettes mixing pots are easy for me to source.
@@ModelMinutes i should have added that I haven't got very far with it. Bit of test spraying butI think i want to get some specific airbrush paint (as opposed to randomly watering down Citadel and humbrol acrylic) to give me best chance of getting some value out of it rather than getting annoyed at my own shortcomings in using it.
I got a freebie airbrush years ago with a subscription to a model railway magazine they said it was worth about £35 the on it was model air sp30, turns out it's a sparmax under a different name so loads of back up service ie spares. The bought a twin cylinder compressor with 3 litre tank from the airbrush company for £100. Airbrush set ups can be done really cheaply. I think it's just looking around and buying something in the middle range that you can get spares for. After watching this I'll have to dig a kit out..
I was an airbrush artist (superrealism) for a lot of years. Had Paasches, Thayer Chandlers, but the absolute easiest to clean and best engineered were the Iwatas... Such a beautiful beast. Had everything from an automotive touch up gun for large areas to mid and small Iwatas. If you're gonna do super detail though, you'll need the troublesome but necessary Paasche AB (let someone fine tune it for you: there used to be a watch-maker out west (US) who'd hotrod (fine tune) them for a price. I could paint the shadow of a single hair with a well tuned AB. Can't imagine everyone wouldn't want one for super-detailed modelling. (Temperamental things though: constantly sharpening and cleaning the needles.) Something to think about as you get better. A really good airbrush will improve your technique almost overnight.
I should mention one more thing. If you find that you don't need a big color cup; that you're doing quick color changes and you're working with a difficult medium like acrylic, there's a tough little airbrush that'll keep you painting more, cleaning less and the bigger, tougher tips won't have you tearing your hair out late at night. A Paasche VJR! It's no Iwata, but it won't break your spirit either if you're doing a "color change, clean, color change, clean" ... and you'll be able to find the tip if you drop it in the carpet. It's the AK47 of airbrushes; still works fine in the trenches. Cheers!
I have the same exact model you showed on video. It works like charm for my level of skill, but i found quite a few issues - The compressor is loud as shit, shakes like hell (and it drifts around the table, since it's very light) and tends to overheat quite fast - You can't do precision brushing consistently since it will sometimes easily clog and spit out bigger droplets of paint, making pre shading and similar operation very difficult
A single-action valve is usually up and down. The pull back on the needle pre-set by by its screw at the back. This allows you to get consistent spray size and precision, greater accuracy especially with small parts.
@@ModelMinutes I forgot to say that it’s really good and simple to use. My Dad got it for me at Christmas. I don’t know how much he paid. Maybe like £60-£70.
I knew that the spitfire was airbrushed. I got mine for around 50-60 € but damn it was painful to work with such a bad airbrush, so i am still handpainting and will get an airbrush when I will move to California!
@@ModelMinutes yeah it is. Learning from mistakes. Next time when I will buy an airbrush, I will be careful because they are a lot of bad stuff out there.
I think if you shopped around a bit more you could have got a kit with a better compresser for the same money. I got mine from amazon, it didn't include the stencils, pipettes or measuring cups but it had the same generic airbrush, cleaning accessories and airline but the compresser is a much bigger professional looking one but with no reserve tank. It also came supplied with a moisture trap and pressure gauge and a much better double airbrush holder. If I remember correctly mine was sold by a company called ABEST. I'm a beginner too but I was very impressed with the airbrush and compresser. I got really good results and found getting the paint consistency correct is absolutely essential. My compresser is much quieter too.
Thanks for your comment. I also agree that I could have probably have found different products - but I picked this one as it would make an interesting video - this is a review channel after all. In the future (as I earn more money from this) I will undoubtedly improve my equipment
@@ModelMinutes to be honest this is the first time I've watched this channel, it came up in my recommendations, I will be taking a look at the rest of your video's because I enjoyed this one. As I said I'm new to this too, I only started modelling about 2 years ago and I've only managed to finish 4 models due to health reasons but I'm always looking for new channels with tips and reviews so I can learn more. Thank you for sharing with us,
I bought a superb air gun off an online auction site for just under £40, it's absolutely excellent. I restore old toy cars etc and also do modelling. Yes it is possible to buy one.
I have an airbrush and compressor set made by a company called "PointZero" that I assume is like a cheaper chinese company. 3 airbrushes and an air compressor together that costs 110ish dollars (This compressor is a cylindrical one on 4 legs and has a handle to move it). Despite being a cheaper chinese copy it works pretty well and I've used it on all my models since. The compressor automatically turns off when not in use, and the airbrush is easy to clean and works well. I've also had experience with an airbrush that has a portable, mini compressor on the bottom. To be honest, it was not good and I returned it. The compressor makes it weird to hold the airbrush, you can't adjust the pressure and the airbrush model was hard to clean.
I like that air compressor.Its nice and small and compact.I already have an airbrush.Its an Heat a dual action airbrush.It was expensive at around $80.00 US dollars.
Thanks for posting this. I’ve been umming and ahing about an airbrush and this video really helps. Can I ask you about whether you had any extraction? I was just thinking about spraying in a cardboard box. We make our models on our dining table so no permanent work bench. Just thinking about how much spray gets into the air?? Thanks in advance James
I'm not entirely sure . . . being a modelling channel i've not had any experience of that. But, if I were to guess, something hard wearing like an enamel - don't quote me on that though
Gotta be carefull what paintyou use on helmets as some can and will degrade the material the helmet is made of. I'm happy to point you in right direction,painted a few helmets now 👌
The clips are probably to be used with a model holding turntable such as the one Tamiya makes. The attachment on the airbrush is probably for a quick connect hose to be used instead of a rubber friction hose. I have seen similar airbrushes of this type all over the internet. They are sold in various packages under various names. And for someone just betting back into models or a beginner an in expensive set up makes more sense than buying the expensive setups. After a lot of practice and a few models completed beginners can move up to more expensive equipment. I did the same getting back into models, a basic airbrush and a cheaper compressor that one uses in a workshop.
These cheap airbrushes are great for starting out, there are a few sets on eBay that include a better compressor (not top line but adequate) with a tank. They usually go for around £70-80,you don’t get as many bits like measuring pots etc, but the last one I got had 3 airbrushes in it! The airbrushes are all of the same quality as in the video although there is a mixture of gravity fed and siphon fed brushes. I have better quality brushes now I am more experienced but still end up using the cheap ones more as they are more forgiving with paint mixes and are still great for general airbrushing of larger areas. The compressors are OK my first one lasted 10 years, it still works but when it gets warm it starts to lose pressure so it is ok for short periods, I recently bought another. I find these brushes great for what I need I have even put pigments through then no problem ( of course with a suitable carrier, I use isopropyl as it provides great adhesion) I would highly recommend them.
Matt, your water trap is fitted the wrong way round and should be vertical. Go steady with those metal "reamers". You may do more damage with them than you think.
Pretty certain its connected the wrong way round as well. there should be an air in arrow on it somewhere. this must be fitted as near to the airbrush as possible. Warm air contains a lot of moisture and will build up in the tubing so you need to catch every drop possible. The metal end is more robust to take your hand pressure.
Bought one which have another brand name but it looks identical including instructions. As i can remember in the description of the compressor there was mentioned that you have to use this compressor only with single action airbrushes. This and some quality issues with the surface of the paint cup let me send it back. Another issue is that the sealings of this cheap airbrushes are not very durable, especially in connection with enamel paints and there thinners.
@Model Minutes can you please do another subscriber showcase? I have submitted multiple models. But only show my A-10. I would also love to see what other people have made. So, can you please consider it?
I dont measure,but use another method to test if it is mixed right...Just put a small drop on the side of the becher you are mixing in and see how it flows down...
Nice video. I found it very helpful bc Im also thinking in buying sn airbrush. Is one of the things I wanted to do since I was a kid. Are u going to upload any more content on e u will change to a better compressor or any videos on how to clean the airbrush please?. And happy new year
Moisture trap goes on the airbrush end, lose the "cleaner kit" you'll kill your seals and kill the tip. Use paper dental tips if you get clogs. As a rule thin your paints with the recommended thinners. Flush between colours and use the correct cleaners. Be aware that it's probably not PTFE seals so acetone cleaning can be dangerous. The reason folks buy "name" brands is quality control and availability of spares. Look at badger, iwata and harder & steenbeck. All do brushes around or under the 100 pound mark. A tanked compressor is the way forward, reduces water in the lines and stops compressor wear. (If nothing else those deal sets on Amazon get you the compressor and hose) And for the love of God wear a mask at all times! It's atomised paint and unless you like rainbow snot and plastic coating your lungs wear one. (Extraction cabs help)
@@ModelMinutes Inter-dental brushes are ideal. Reamers are special tools for refurbishing not for cleaning. Check the points on cheap needles are not hooked, they're not usually hardened as they ought to be and may need honing by rolling on a hard stone. Check cheap jets for burrs, that's what the reamers are for, burrs will not only ruin the spray pattern but cause paint clogs.
@@ModelMinutes nothing wrong with a cheap airbrush provided you can rebuild them. If you can build a model you can do that. Beware of very small parts vanishing. As the cheap ones are knock-offs, you can usually source name-brand parts as replacements. The main difference with name-brand is quality, seals that don't leak and smooth valves; my Badger 200 must be well over 30yo. But don't rush out and buy a better airbrush, your next purchase ought to be a tank compressor, and a much longer air hose.
No worries. You are now in the slippery slope of upgrades😂 compressor with tank next👍 The Tamiya acrylic goes down brilliantly. The Humbrol will go in the bin☹️ If you have an old biggish model you’ve built that is surplus, use it to practice on. Thanks for the time to make these videos mate. Now crack on with the 1/35 Honey 👍🍺🍺🍺
Aye👍 I’ve been building a 1/32 Spitfire since July! It’s missed the battle of britain😂 if you haven’t seen this channel ruclips.net/video/FwzsTkmoMY4/видео.html I highly recommend it. This vid is about the basics of armour modelling. I’m building the Panzer II along with the series. It’s a great channel.
The Spitfire looks great👌Whats the name of the Airbrushset ? I have to get me a thing like that too. I always thinking about the revellairbrushset,but it huge and very expiencive.. However.Great video and explanation.Well done.Thanks a lot.
Please read this comment as an attempt to help other people make the best decision. Having had the same compressor, I do NOT recommend anyone buy it. Mine only worked well enough for about 2 models. After a lot of frustration and thinking that I was useless at thinning paint, I took it apart and found out that the pressure ring had disintegrated. I always shut it down immediately after painting as it didn't turn its self off after stopping the flow of air. The airbrush was also really bad but I am not sure it is the same, so I won't comment. Now I use an AS-182 compressor (better pressure, has a regulator and gauge, auto cut-off) and a 16 euro airbrush (the ones with the black plastic handle) and I am much happier. I calculate that I spent 79 pounds for both (bought separately so I paid shipping for each). The AS-182 is sold by a lot of brands. Frankly, the compressor I had was not worth the cost of shipping and you are probably better off brush painting as it is less hassle. Of course, there is the possibility that I was unlucky. I really hope this is helpful to other modelers. :)
Thanks for letting us know about your experiences. For the moment i've built about 4 kits with the airbrush and the compressor still seems to be functioning normally . . . perhaps you were unlucky. I will be looking at getting a better one in the future though as the noise of this one drives me a bit crazy
How are you managing with fumes and the cloud of spray in your room? Mask? Open window? I don’t expect to do a huge amount of airbrushing but it does worry me somewhat.
In the future i will build/buy a spray booth, but for now I wear a face mask, turn on my fan and open the window so it's blowing out, but that's about it. I don't do a massive amount of spraying at the moment
Very similar to my first airbrush - I moved on to a much better Harder & Steenbeck, but still use the old chinese-made airbrush for overall coats of primer or varnish. Those plastic pipettes are a pain to clean and eventually get stained and scratched internally - I get small glass ones from a chemist/pharmacy... much better for cleaning up afterwards... Oh, and those little disposable plastic party 'shot-glasses' - I find are great for mixing paint/thinner/varnish etc... So cheap you can just throw them away afterwards.
Update: I upgraded my airbrush setup so I now have a compressor with a storage tank - it is considerably more controllable regarding pressure output, and is much quieter. For those of you who are torn between the product in the video above - it is generally fine - but I have had better results with my newer compressor with storage tank. Yes they are a little more expensive but they are worth the extra investment.
The portable compressor featured in this video is still in my modelling supplies, and to date, still works. But that being said, I don't use it very often as I have my other compressor now.
The product above is good for learning the basics, but I very quickly found myself moving on to better equipment, so in my opinion - if airbrushing is something you know you definitely want to do, i'd look at the better compressors from the start. I hope this helps
Do you have an Amazon UK link for the new air brush and compressor?
@@jeffwalker7185 I didn't buy mine on amazon at the time - but this is pretty much the exact same system amzn.to/3uqrEem
@@ModelMinutes Thank you for your prompt reply. This looks a lot more substantial.
Paint bleed is always something to watch out for. One way to minimise it is after masking you do a light coat of the previous colour. That way any paint that does bleed under the tape will be the same colour as the colour you have masked off. It also forms a seal so when you put on the next colour there shouldn't be any more paint bleed.
Great tip!
Or you can use clear ,that’s what I use any works really
Cleaning after use is an absolute MUST or else the bits will gum up. I have been using solvent based paints that need a lot of thinning but it's worth taking a long time to disassemble, clean and putting back together and leaving with neat thinners in the cup after spraying some through the nozzle. Always wear a mask !!
Thanks for the tips!
Was able to revive airbrush afer almost 2y of laying down, last time was paintin acrylic and cleaned with water
I recommend you to put that moisture trap on the end of the airbrush and not the compressor.
The trap needs to be vertical, so the moisture doesn't flow back into the compressor or hose.
Also, it is easier to let the moisture out that way and it makes a great extended grip.
Although don't grab on to it too much as if it gets too warm from your hand the condensation won't form and the water will get into the airbrush.
Sadly this is something we have to deal with if you have a compressor without a tank.
I have two traps, one on the compressor end and the same that you have on the airbrush end. Although I do have a bigger compressor.
Well done on the Spitfire. Turned out really nice.
The biggest difference you will see when you're going to do mottling and other camo types with soft edges, which are much harder with a brush.
Thanks for letting me know!
That's where I put mine.
@@dfar2303 I got a cheap airbrush with one built in under the nozzle. Just a small screw valve.
You can't effectively tell the pressure but after a while you get the hang of it anyway. I test the pressure on my palm and set it accordingly.
@@dfar2303 Yes, I would like to be able to do that in the future!
And the moisture trap is turned the wrong way.
What a beautifully finished aircraft! I am ready to make the move from single action to dual-action airbrushing. Thanks for the motivation. Thanks for your time in making this great video.
Best of luck!
I have pretty much the exact same set (It was cheaper, so didn't include as many goodies). The compressor switches to continuous running at 20psi (The ideal pressure for airbrushing I was told), so if you slowly increase the pressure until it starts running continuously, you'll be set just so. I roll it back slightly for somewhere around 18psi.
At full pressure, the poor little thing does have to work quite hard, but at the lower pressures, it's nowhere near as loud. I found it can get quite warm after about half an hour. Not enough to overheat, or cut out, or offer a danger of burning yourself, but the case is warm to the touch.
I always hesitated to start airbrushing because of the apparent cost of entry, I was once told a 'beginner' setup needed an £150 airbrush and an £80 compressor, which got a hard 'No' from me. I later decided to chance it with one of these sets. I'm fully aware it won't last as long or do as many clever things are the more expensive offering, but as a kit to learn from, it's perfect and I've been really pleased with the results I've been able to achieve and am quite pleased at being able to add another skill to my bowstring.
I would even call this little set portable, the box mine came in will happily transport the brush, compressor, hose, power cable and basic mixing and cleaning tools .
Thanks for the info! I'm looking at upgrading in the future
I haven't watched u in months but I'm glad to be back
welcome back!
Great video! i bought the same set up off amazon probably over two years ago now. it was the first airbrush i have ever had, been making models on and off for over 30 years. I wasn't expecting miracles or for it to last. But suprisingly its still going strong! its had cellulose thinners through it to clean it, enamel and water based paints and used it to touch up a stone chip with old fashioned coach enamel. Just give it a complete strip down every now and then and it keeps going.
Awesome! I hope mine will last that long too!
Interesting review and a really nice build! I tried an airbrush even cheaper than this one a couple of years ago but could never really get used to it. Especially as a small house and small children made opportunities to use it rare.
I've since adapted to using spray cans which suit me but I think in the future I'd like an airbrush again.
Thanks! 👍 Yes, spray cans are useful and I have used them in a number of my builds. I'm actually looking to upgrade my airbrush in the near future for something a little more robust - a compressor with an airtank would be great!
YES! You finally got an airbrush! I recommend that you thin paints 1 to 1 ratio thinner, not what the bottle suggests
Thanks for the tip!
1:1 is a good place to start but not all paints are created equal. Some experimentation might be needed
Valejo can spray straight from the bottle. Which allows you to use just a few drops of paint. Needle, nozzle and jet size are chosen for paint particle size. If it doesn't spray without thinning, change the jet or needle, and the air pressure.
Humbrol enamel wants to be thinned 7:3 from a new tinlet, maybe a little more more thinners if the tinlet has been opened a while. Stir the stuff for at least twice as long as you think it needs, use one of those motorised whizzers.
To say that's the first time you have used an airbrush I think the results are great well done you've given me some hope!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice video! We all started somewhere. I started with a cheap Chinese knock-off of a Badger 155. It's still working. Those cleaning brushes you got and show at 4:50? Do not use them to clean inside the airbrush, especially inside the nozzle. They will scratch the inside of the nozzle, and then the needle will not seat properly, causing all sorts of problems. I watched an interview with Ken Schlotfeldt, the owner and president of Badger Airbrush company, and he said they have service request quite often from people who have used those brushes inside their nozzles. The only fix is a new nozzle, and Badger won't cover that under warranty. Use a pipe cleaner or an interdental brush (that's what we call them in the States, not sure what they are called in the UK).
Yes, we have those brushes here in the uk - i'll be sure to look at getting some for cleaning - thanks!
I too just got my first airbrush and compressor set. Painting quality is outstanding. Kit cost me £120 all in. Should have done it years ago.
Good to hear
Jay, which one did you go for?
I started airbrushing with a similar set by Shesto with a single action airbrush. It was a great start to experiment. That is the most important thing: experiment, fail, learn, re-do. And have fun!
That's true!
You give me brilliant incentives to build sadly no space. I've bought to many new kits I've never thought of thanks to your tutorials.
Glad to help! I'm also running out of space for my builds too :0
@@ModelMinutes more of a physical work area sadly gotten fed up crouching over coffee table lol. Some of my builds have been part built and stored. You know yourself sometimes no matter how big the kit is space build is nice.
@@LightingSparks82 yes, very true! Sometimes I have to move around and i can't always get enough space to build either
Thank you very much for your video. I've returned to modelling after retiring and have been looking at getting an airbrush and this might just fit the bill.
Glad I could help. I've used it on a number of models and is still working fine
My first airbrush set was a small set like this. Totally spot on about how loud they are though, the only downside to it. But to be honest, after a while you get used to it it's the rest of the family that complains. So as a starter set. Brilliant starting point.
Thanks! It's certainly introducing me to some new skills
There's got to be some way of making a small sound-proof box to put it in, right? It'll never supress all the sound but...
For the first time using an airbrush you did a fantastic job!!
Thank you so much 😀
Nice to see you finally got yourself an airbrush. I’ve had mine for 18 months now and I still feel like a novice - constantly learning.
yes, i'm still figuring out how to use this one
@@ModelMinutes I've had quite a few airbrushes over many years - and am still learning.
I think I’ll be getting one of these. Thanks for the review.
No worries, glad you found it helpful
I found it helpful too but sadly I can’t find it on German Amazon. Guess I’ll keep searching
Nice vid thanks Matt, I always wondered about the all in one entry level sets from the web.
A few thoughts;
The selection of nozzles and needles are good , perhaps giving folks a chance to try out a selection of sizes , finding what they like before upgrading.
The moisture trap is often placed below the airbrush and some people like the extra grip it gives. Either way both works and its a nice addition to see in a budget set.
The compressor is my biggest gripe but for the money you can't really complain. I dont see it putting out enough consistent pressure and I dont think it will last very long. That being said its cheaper than canisters in the long run.
Also unless you go for a tank compressor where the air isn't constantly on you'll get a racket. Mine started quiet but has got louder over time and that was a premium one. Tank is the way to go for quiet, but they can be a bit dearer. For budget ones somewhere like Bartsharp airbrushes in the UK might be a good place to try.
Im stoked you joined the club and glad you got it to a a happy level on the model. As you know there is lots to learn and I cant stress that just spending time drawing lines and mottles at different pressures on some shiny card ( to emulate plastic) will help the learning curve a lot.
Once your used to the processes its becomes second nature. Good luck !
Thanks for the tips! I'll be looking at upgrading the compressor in the future - when I've got more earnings to spend haha!
Nice video. I've been using the exact same airbrush Aerograph AG-152 (7cc cup) and a smaller cousin of it AG-136B (2cc cup). They've both worked great for the last 4+ years that I've been airbrushing, despite being tagged as the "cheap chinese" product on many forums. I've not faced a single problem with it except for my own fault where I cleaned my airbrush with the crude turpentine thus ruining the o-ring seals. The only downside to this airbrush is that its tough to find o-rings. Other than that they're great. So congratulations and welcome to the world of airbrushing. Hope to see many more nice models from you. Cheers
Thanks! Yes, i'm being quite careful with cleaning at the moment . . .might need to get some specialist cleaner though
@@ModelMinutes Water and IPA work fine as cleaners. I've made my own home-made airbrush cleaner with a glass cleaner+water,+IPA+glycerine mixture and its also served the purpose of cleaning this airbrush pretty well
@@swing.wing_singh thanks for the tip!
October 20th 2020... I have a airbrush... a BADGER 350 model...had it for 30 years...it does ok... better with ENAMELS...ACRYLICS tend to set up and start drying in the tip...usually need to keep the tip/ needle moist... but I’m in the market for a new one ACRYLICS are good because you can use water for clean- up... for ENAMELS I use mineral spirits only for clean-up... use thinners compatible with the enamels I’m using... No matter what , airbrushing is fun practice practice practice... thanks for the review... always enjoy your site... take care CHRIS from the USA
Thanks Chris, always good to see your comments! So far I've only used acrylic but have experienced the paint drying in the tip of the nozzle . . . .
I really want to get into airbrushing but it's so daunting with all the different prices and information out there. Thanks for these videos...I think I'll kick off with a cheap one and see how I get on .
if you've not already seen my more recent video on airbrushes - there is quite a good system shown in that one
Came across your vid buy browsing I had the same set up as yourself but my airbrush just packed in after a couple week so upgraded to a iwata neo airbrush they are alot better the compressor is still going strong 💪
Thanks for the info! I want to upgrade as time and money allows
Love my Iwata HP-BCs and SilentAir compressor. One thing I started experimenting with is an air eraser, a low pressure dust huffer and a dust control box all purchased used on Ebay. The air eraser is like a mini sand or bead blaster and can be used to removed old paint when chemical paint stripping wont work on model paint mistakes.
interesting!
Think I will order one of these kits as I’m getting back into model making again and reliving my youth.
awesome!
This seems like a really good deal for 60 pounds. I hope the seals on the airbrush hold up!
What I noticed from my 3 years of experience with airbrushing is that you can get away with a cheap set on matt paints (military vehicles etc.) and they can be painted at a nice quality with a cheap product, but when it comes to lacquor paints, especially glossy one (racing cars etc.) a quality airbrush and compressor really make a huge difference. Glossy paints (especially clear coats) really need a high quality nozzel and exact pressure regulation with very even airflow. That's why I bit my tongue and bought a Harder and Steenbeck for an absurd amount of money, plus a higher quality compressor and of course Gunze and Hataka paints.
Thanks for letting me know! I'll have to keep that in mind
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus Augustus If you can, try Sparmax airbrushes. I couldn’t justify three figure airbrushes and sparmax are great. I now use Hataka lacquers and love them.
I have exactly the same one.
However, when I got it, it didn't work well. Hardly no paint came out.
I disassembled it, and the truth was; the 3 airholes in the nozzle were drilled, but not quiet the whole way, some metal "discs" remained at the end of the holes, and I had to poke them out. Very naughty!
Then I polished the needle to a mirror shine.
After all that everything worked perfectly.
Next time I buy a Badger. I had a Badger airbrush for 40 years, never malfunctioned.
Sounds like the quality control in the factory had a day off when yours was made. I'll be looking at upgrading to a better airbrush/compressor in the future but for now this one seems to be doing ok
Nice job on the Spitfire. I have just subscribed.
Thanks for the sub! If you liked this one you should check out my Mustang :)
@@ModelMinutes I certainly will.
@@terryblackman6217 😊
Cracking job on the decals!!!!
Thanks!
That was an excellent video. I was just given one by a friend and am quite excited to give it a go.
Nice!
Been nervous about getting an airbrush, I bought an Iwata some years ago, but never bought a compressor for it. Thanks for sharing this set, just bought it, hopefully I can learn to get over my fears.
Go for it!
Just getting back into plastic model building, and I guess at my advanced age :) I am going to try airbrushing. Thanks for the informative review video.
Go for it!
Very clear and concise video. Many thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Great vid. If you first apply another thin layer of base coat after masking, the bleeding will be the same color as the base =)
Thanks for the tip!
I used to own that compressor.
Tbh it's more a source of frustration than anything good. It overheats after some time and you can't paint anymore.
I switched to a compressor with a tank. I can't remember the name tho.
Doesn't mean you can't do anything good with it. You can get pretty good results. But you better be really patient.
PS: Nice painting on the Spitfire
Thanks for the info! :D
Wow I have that exact airbrush and compressor
It’s done me “wonders” although I don’t have a better set to compare it to so who knows
good to know!
Great video mate, it popped up in my recommendations and reminded me that I need to do more airfix, I've bought the d day air assault kit and I still need to finish my gannet aew3
Thanks :)
@@ModelMinutes no problem mate
i just recently got ahold of an airbrush haven't had a chance to use it yet finishing a hobby 2000 1/32 spitfire, first airbrush project!
nice!
Thanks for sharing this worthfull information with us 👍
- Your little Spitfire looks Beautiful after painting too 🌷👍
Many thanks :D
I think the clips are for holding the things you are painting I often see other people spay paint using clips to hold the part or runners and the clips are on the end of wooden sticks that are held up with a styrofoam block but I’m not sure if these clips can be mounted on sticks though but this is probably the idea behind including them
Yea, you’re probably right 😊
Great review Matt. May put this on my xmas wishlist now.
Hope you enjoy it!
Great review and some nice model-making!👍😊 As another poster said the moisture trap needs repositioning, but in reality probably not a huge difference to be made 😉😊
Thanks for the info!
I’m gonna ask for one for Christmas this year I’m gonna avenge the old models that I butchered
good idea! I might revisit some of my older kits . . .
Buy a h&s Ultra with a proper compressor. This will catch on fire, and the airbrush is not a good quality one. This option may seem a lot cheaper, but you will want to replace these things after a few models. Ask me how I know it.
@@Iceman_74 I trust that you are speaking from experience. I will be looking to upgrade in the future, this was just to get my foot in the door
@@ModelMinutes It nice for beginning, but if you bought an airbrush, there is no return.
@@ModelMinutes If you buy a good compressor with an air tank, and a not chinese airbrush, and after that you realise that you don't want to airbrush, just sell it. And for example you need to buy once a H&S airbrush, and it will last forever. And it's also easier to clean and to work with.
Wow! Incredible paintwork mate :)
Thanks a lot!
Thx for the review I might think about buying it
Cool! If you do make sure you use the link in the description , I would greatly appreciate it 😉
@@ModelMinutes ok no problem
@@ModelMinutes wait where’s about is the link
@@jesseladmore8059 in the video description
@@ModelMinutes I’m sorry to say it’s not there
I think the airbrush is to paint single colour models like a Stealth b 52 or a AC 130 gun ship
Haha maybe!
You can get the same kit without the measuring stuff but you do get the rest on Ali Express for £32 although you will wait for delivery up to 28 days, there are loads of versions of this, the compressor is an OEM that other companies put their logo on, you have to be careful though some of the compressors are not compatible with dual action and this is explained in the manual although some are sold with the dual-action airbrush.
thanks for the info
I bought a similar drvice for about £40. Didn't come with all the different nozzles or all extras but gloves, pipettes mixing pots are easy for me to source.
Thanks for sharing
@@ModelMinutes i should have added that I haven't got very far with it. Bit of test spraying butI think i want to get some specific airbrush paint (as opposed to randomly watering down Citadel and humbrol acrylic) to give me best chance of getting some value out of it rather than getting annoyed at my own shortcomings in using it.
@@gleggett3817 I find that the Vallejo model air paint range is quite good
@@ModelMinutes thanks. I'll bear that in mind.
I got a freebie airbrush years ago with a subscription to a model railway magazine they said it was worth about £35 the on it was model air sp30, turns out it's a sparmax under a different name so loads of back up service ie spares. The bought a twin cylinder compressor with 3 litre tank from the airbrush company for £100. Airbrush set ups can be done really cheaply. I think it's just looking around and buying something in the middle range that you can get spares for. After watching this I'll have to dig a kit out..
Sounds pretty interesting!
I was an airbrush artist (superrealism) for a lot of years. Had Paasches, Thayer Chandlers, but the absolute easiest to clean and best engineered were the Iwatas... Such a beautiful beast. Had everything from an automotive touch up gun for large areas to mid and small Iwatas. If you're gonna do super detail though, you'll need the troublesome but necessary Paasche AB (let someone fine tune it for you: there used to be a watch-maker out west (US) who'd hotrod (fine tune) them for a price. I could paint the shadow of a single hair with a well tuned AB. Can't imagine everyone wouldn't want one for super-detailed modelling. (Temperamental things though: constantly sharpening and cleaning the needles.) Something to think about as you get better. A really good airbrush will improve your technique almost overnight.
Thanks for the info!
I should mention one more thing. If you find that you don't need a big color cup; that you're doing quick color changes and you're working with a difficult medium like acrylic, there's a tough little airbrush that'll keep you painting more, cleaning less and the bigger, tougher tips won't have you tearing your hair out late at night.
A Paasche VJR! It's no Iwata, but it won't break your spirit either if you're doing a "color change, clean, color change, clean" ... and you'll be able to find the tip if you drop it in the carpet. It's the AK47 of airbrushes; still works fine in the trenches. Cheers!
I have the same airbrush set but it didn’t have the moisture trap. Only problem I had was the bent needle tip... but that may have been me
That's a shame :(
I have the same exact model you showed on video. It works like charm for my level of skill, but i found quite a few issues
- The compressor is loud as shit, shakes like hell (and it drifts around the table, since it's very light) and tends to overheat quite fast
- You can't do precision brushing consistently since it will sometimes easily clog and spit out bigger droplets of paint, making pre shading and similar operation very difficult
I've experienced these issues, fingers crossed I can upgrade soon :D
I suggest getting quick disconnect adapters for your airbrush
That would certainly make it easier!
Glad to see you joined the airbrush fraternity 😊
Haha! Yes - for now :P
Hell 5 minutes in and i'm impressed already for $120 cad lol
Thanks :D
A single-action valve is usually up and down. The pull back on the needle pre-set by by its screw at the back. This allows you to get consistent spray size and precision, greater accuracy especially with small parts.
Thanks for the tip!
I got a Timbertech airbrush and compressor kit and it’s pretty good. Didn’t come with anything else other than the stuff it came with the airbrush.
Thanks for the info!
@@ModelMinutes I forgot to say that it’s really good and simple to use. My Dad got it for me at Christmas. I don’t know how much he paid. Maybe like £60-£70.
@@SubbieNautica thanks! Maybe I’ll get one
@@SubbieNautica thanks! Maybe I’ll get one
I knew that the spitfire was airbrushed. I got mine for around 50-60 € but damn it was painful to work with such a bad airbrush, so i am still handpainting and will get an airbrush when I will move to California!
That's a shame - it is a learning curve if i'm honest
@@ModelMinutes yeah it is. Learning from mistakes. Next time when I will buy an airbrush, I will be careful because they are a lot of bad stuff out there.
@@KJ-kn8pg yeah, i was fortunate with mine
Im new myself and looking at airbrushes. This looks great, you get a lot of bang for your buck, thanks 💪👍
make sure you read the pinned comment first before buying anything
I think if you shopped around a bit more you could have got a kit with a better compresser for the same money.
I got mine from amazon, it didn't include the stencils, pipettes or measuring cups but it had the same generic airbrush, cleaning accessories and airline but the compresser is a much bigger professional looking one but with no reserve tank. It also came supplied with a moisture trap and pressure gauge and a much better double airbrush holder. If I remember correctly mine was sold by a company called ABEST.
I'm a beginner too but I was very impressed with the airbrush and compresser. I got really good results and found getting the paint consistency correct is absolutely essential.
My compresser is much quieter too.
Thanks for your comment. I also agree that I could have probably have found different products - but I picked this one as it would make an interesting video - this is a review channel after all. In the future (as I earn more money from this) I will undoubtedly improve my equipment
@@ModelMinutes to be honest this is the first time I've watched this channel, it came up in my recommendations, I will be taking a look at the rest of your video's because I enjoyed this one.
As I said I'm new to this too, I only started modelling about 2 years ago and I've only managed to finish 4 models due to health reasons but I'm always looking for new channels with tips and reviews so I can learn more. Thank you for sharing with us,
@@allanatwick1606 thanks! I’ve got some fantastic build videos coming over the next few weeks including the Airfix Typhoon, Revell Ju87G and others
@@ModelMinutes I look forward to it cheers
going to get one of these, i have a 1/200 titanic to detail, probably going to use tamiya spray paints on the main hull, due to the size..
good idea
I bought a superb air gun off an online auction site for just under £40, it's absolutely excellent. I restore old toy cars etc and also do modelling. Yes it is possible to buy one.
Sounds like a pretty cool bit of kit! What kind of toy cars do you restore?
I have an airbrush and compressor set made by a company called "PointZero" that I assume is like a cheaper chinese company. 3 airbrushes and an air compressor together that costs 110ish dollars (This compressor is a cylindrical one on 4 legs and has a handle to move it). Despite being a cheaper chinese copy it works pretty well and I've used it on all my models since. The compressor automatically turns off when not in use, and the airbrush is easy to clean and works well.
I've also had experience with an airbrush that has a portable, mini compressor on the bottom. To be honest, it was not good and I returned it. The compressor makes it weird to hold the airbrush, you can't adjust the pressure and the airbrush model was hard to clean.
I think i've seen that kind of thing on amazon . . .
That went really well!
yeah, i was quite pleased with it at the time
I like that air compressor.Its nice and small and compact.I already have an airbrush.Its an Heat a dual action airbrush.It was expensive at around $80.00 US dollars.
sounds cool
Thanks for posting this. I’ve been umming and ahing about an airbrush and this video really helps. Can I ask you about whether you had any extraction? I was just thinking about spraying in a cardboard box. We make our models on our dining table so no permanent work bench. Just thinking about how much spray gets into the air?? Thanks in advance James
Currently I have a fan blowing it out a window but don't have an actual spray booth
Hi Matt hope you still continue to brush paint aswell models aswell as for me I don’t airbrush as I think it’s the eternal kid in me good luck though
That's the plan!
Hi, could you tell me what kind of paint you would use on motorbike helmets.
Thanks
I'm not entirely sure . . . being a modelling channel i've not had any experience of that. But, if I were to guess, something hard wearing like an enamel - don't quote me on that though
Gotta be carefull what paintyou use on helmets as some can and will degrade the material the helmet is made of. I'm happy to point you in right direction,painted a few helmets now 👌
@@wasterdnb Hi, thanks for the reply, what's the best paint to use, I want to practice on my old helmet
@@wheelie-gonzales feel free to send me a email and I'll link you up. Are you in UK? Happy to send a few tester pots over to ya 👊👍
@@wheelie-gonzales are you using 2k paints?
I have same looking airbrush kit
I didn't know you have put the filter thing directly 9n the compressor
I put the thing backwards
Some people say it should go on the airbrush so I guess as long as it’s in the system somewhere then you’re fine
The clips are probably to be used with a model holding turntable such as the one Tamiya makes. The attachment on the airbrush is probably for a quick connect hose to be used instead of a rubber friction hose. I have seen similar airbrushes of this type all over the internet. They are sold in various packages under various names. And for someone just betting back into models or a beginner an in expensive set up makes more sense than buying the expensive setups. After a lot of practice and a few models completed beginners can move up to more expensive equipment. I did the same getting back into models, a basic airbrush and a cheaper compressor that one uses in a workshop.
thanks for the info :D
Excellent! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
These cheap airbrushes are great for starting out, there are a few sets on eBay that include a better compressor (not top line but adequate) with a tank. They usually go for around £70-80,you don’t get as many bits like measuring pots etc, but the last one I got had 3 airbrushes in it! The airbrushes are all of the same quality as in the video although there is a mixture of gravity fed and siphon fed brushes. I have better quality brushes now I am more experienced but still end up using the cheap ones more as they are more forgiving with paint mixes and are still great for general airbrushing of larger areas. The compressors are OK my first one lasted 10 years, it still works but when it gets warm it starts to lose pressure so it is ok for short periods, I recently bought another. I find these brushes great for what I need I have even put pigments through then no problem ( of course with a suitable carrier, I use isopropyl as it provides great adhesion) I would highly recommend them.
thanks for the info!
Matt, your water trap is fitted the wrong way round and should be vertical. Go steady with those metal "reamers". You may do more damage with them than you think.
Yeah, quite a few comments have told me about the moisture trap and the reamer
Moisture trap goes at the other end near the airbrush.
Apparently so. Instructions were unclear
@@ModelMinutes moisture trap can be where it is on video, your hose is not long enough and dont have any joints to make any difference........
@@jozefsan thanks!
Pretty certain its connected the wrong way round as well. there should be an air in arrow on it somewhere. this must be fitted as near to the airbrush as possible. Warm air contains a lot of moisture and will build up in the tubing so you need to catch every drop possible. The metal end is more robust to take your hand pressure.
Bought one which have another brand name but it looks identical including instructions. As i can remember in the description of the compressor there was mentioned that you have to use this compressor only with single action airbrushes. This and some quality issues with the surface of the paint cup let me send it back. Another issue is that the sealings of this cheap airbrushes are not very durable, especially in connection with enamel paints and there thinners.
yeah, i could imagine that enamels would be quite destructive inside some of these cheaper airbrushes
Any chance of a follow up about your current airbrush setup and how it differs from this starting point please?
yeah, I had hoped on doing a video on it soon
You can airbrush with tamyia acrylics instead of using Humbrol acrylics
Yes, I've also recently bought some vallejo and hataka paints too
@@ModelMinutes could you do a tutorial on mottling with an airbrush?
@@scalesmodellingmagic5883 I'd certainly have a go when i've had some practice! :D
@Model Minutes can you please do another subscriber showcase? I have submitted multiple models. But only show my A-10. I would also love to see what other people have made. So, can you please consider it?
i'll have to look into it
whats the ratio of water to paint please as im going to do this as my first attempt at a model after 45 years since the last one i did :)
50/50 is a good place to start when air brushing. "Consistency of milk" is often a term used for getting the right thickness of the paint
I dont measure,but use another method to test if it is mixed right...Just put a small drop on the side of the becher you are mixing in and see how it flows down...
Nice video. I found it very helpful bc Im also thinking in buying sn airbrush. Is one of the things I wanted to do since I was a kid. Are u going to upload any more content on e u will change to a better compressor or any videos on how to clean the airbrush please?.
And happy new year
I’m due to make a video on my new compressor, I’ve since upgraded to one with a tank which I find gives better air flow
@@ModelMinutes many thanks and sorry if I sounded like demanding. It was a suggestion
try elastic band a car washing or wishing up foam pads to the compressor to reduce the noise ??
I had been placing a thich towel underneath it
Moisture trap goes on the airbrush end, lose the "cleaner kit" you'll kill your seals and kill the tip. Use paper dental tips if you get clogs.
As a rule thin your paints with the recommended thinners.
Flush between colours and use the correct cleaners. Be aware that it's probably not PTFE seals so acetone cleaning can be dangerous.
The reason folks buy "name" brands is quality control and availability of spares. Look at badger, iwata and harder & steenbeck. All do brushes around or under the 100 pound mark.
A tanked compressor is the way forward, reduces water in the lines and stops compressor wear. (If nothing else those deal sets on Amazon get you the compressor and hose)
And for the love of God wear a mask at all times! It's atomised paint and unless you like rainbow snot and plastic coating your lungs wear one. (Extraction cabs help)
Thanks for the info
@@ModelMinutes Inter-dental brushes are ideal. Reamers are special tools for refurbishing not for cleaning. Check the points on cheap needles are not hooked, they're not usually hardened as they ought to be and may need honing by rolling on a hard stone. Check cheap jets for burrs, that's what the reamers are for, burrs will not only ruin the spray pattern but cause paint clogs.
@@jeffslade1892 thanks for the tips!
@@ModelMinutes nothing wrong with a cheap airbrush provided you can rebuild them. If you can build a model you can do that. Beware of very small parts vanishing.
As the cheap ones are knock-offs, you can usually source name-brand parts as replacements. The main difference with name-brand is quality, seals that don't leak and smooth valves; my Badger 200 must be well over 30yo. But don't rush out and buy a better airbrush, your next purchase ought to be a tank compressor, and a much longer air hose.
What nozzle and needle combo did you use in this vid? Thanks!
I believe this was a 0.3
What do yu think of the Revell airbrush that comes with a compress, not the spray gun please? All the vids are in German!
Can't say i have any experience of that one
I would say Tamiya acrylic thinned with mr Color levelling thinners is the best for novice airbrushing. 50/50 ratio.
Thanks for the tip!
No worries. You are now in the slippery slope of upgrades😂 compressor with tank next👍
The Tamiya acrylic goes down brilliantly. The Humbrol will go in the bin☹️ If you have an old biggish model you’ve built that is surplus, use it to practice on.
Thanks for the time to make these videos mate. Now crack on with the 1/35 Honey 👍🍺🍺🍺
OttoVonSkidmarck thanks! The Stuart is making slow progress I’m afraid, but fingers crossed it’s done before Christmas
Aye👍 I’ve been building a 1/32 Spitfire since July! It’s missed the battle of britain😂 if you haven’t seen this channel ruclips.net/video/FwzsTkmoMY4/видео.html I highly recommend it. This vid is about the basics of armour modelling. I’m building the Panzer II along with the series. It’s a great channel.
The Spitfire looks great👌Whats the name of the Airbrushset ?
I have to get me a thing like that too.
I always thinking about the revellairbrushset,but it huge and very expiencive..
However.Great video and explanation.Well done.Thanks a lot.
Thanks for watching - link is in the description for the set that I bought
I find that airbrushes are hard to use in smaller scales but are great on armour models or large bombers but that might just be my airbrush
I find that on really tiny models it just isn't worth airbrushing them
nice result
Thanks :D
Please read this comment as an attempt to help other people make the best decision. Having had the same compressor, I do NOT recommend anyone buy it. Mine only worked well enough for about 2 models. After a lot of frustration and thinking that I was useless at thinning paint, I took it apart and found out that the pressure ring had disintegrated. I always shut it down immediately after painting as it didn't turn its self off after stopping the flow of air. The airbrush was also really bad but I am not sure it is the same, so I won't comment. Now I use an AS-182 compressor (better pressure, has a regulator and gauge, auto cut-off) and a 16 euro airbrush (the ones with the black plastic handle) and I am much happier. I calculate that I spent 79 pounds for both (bought separately so I paid shipping for each). The AS-182 is sold by a lot of brands.
Frankly, the compressor I had was not worth the cost of shipping and you are probably better off brush painting as it is less hassle. Of course, there is the possibility that I was unlucky. I really hope this is helpful to other modelers. :)
Thanks for letting us know about your experiences. For the moment i've built about 4 kits with the airbrush and the compressor still seems to be functioning normally . . . perhaps you were unlucky. I will be looking at getting a better one in the future though as the noise of this one drives me a bit crazy
@@ModelMinutes I'd say just a small desk compressor but with an air tank, puTs less wear on the compressor itself
That one will make your job mate, whit time you will want a better one, I already had a similar one and does ok
Yes, i would like to get an improved version with a reservoir
Does this work with acrylic and enamel paints?
Yes, all airbrushes should. The only difference between acrylic and enamel is the kind of solvent they use
@@ModelMinutes ahh right ok, thanks 👍
That looks good value for 60 quid. Be worth making a padded box to cover the compressor.
Not a bad idea
maybe some rubber feet for the compressor will damp the noise a bit?
It does have some already on it, I did put it on a folded up towel though
Have you got any tips on applying gloss coats
Thin and repeated coats
@@ModelMinutes ok thank you
Nice job
Thanks!
How are you managing with fumes and the cloud of spray in your room?
Mask? Open window? I don’t expect to do a huge amount of airbrushing but it does worry me somewhat.
In the future i will build/buy a spray booth, but for now I wear a face mask, turn on my fan and open the window so it's blowing out, but that's about it. I don't do a massive amount of spraying at the moment
Thanks for the demonstration on a cheap air brush. I've just ordered a cheap one off eBay so this video will help me Egan it arrives 😂
Glad I could help!
Very similar to my first airbrush - I moved on to a much better Harder & Steenbeck, but still use the old chinese-made airbrush for overall coats of primer or varnish.
Those plastic pipettes are a pain to clean and eventually get stained and scratched internally - I get small glass ones from a chemist/pharmacy... much better for cleaning up afterwards... Oh, and those little disposable plastic party 'shot-glasses' - I find are great for mixing paint/thinner/varnish etc... So cheap you can just throw them away afterwards.
I've also moved on recently, video to follow soon