I just want to tell you thank you dad!! I started watching your RUclips since broke and boosted, you've motivated me so much and influenced me to build the hell out of my miata, I've had the car 3 years now, boosted for 1 year and recently blew it up, now I'm rebuiding all back up, I couldn't be more excited, I had a rough start of the year, it felt like life kept pulling me down, especially when the car blew up, everytime I lose motivation and feel like I can't anymore, feel like giving up, I always go back and rewatch the rebirth videos, and now videos of your 500hp vvt beast! you really have and keep pushing me to keep going, keep working on my dreams, and never give up, so I just want to thank you for being the best miata dad, you have helped me through so many rough patches, I just thought I'd tell you how much you've helped me and keep re motivating me!
@@donovinmiller3532 250 whp at 15 psi, stock internal 1.6. Took an entire year of harsh abuse like a champ! Got too ballsey and tried 18psi. Then rod #4 became an astronaut 😂
@@colebina5271 unfortunate. I've done all the research in terms of what I need for my own turbo build i'm just wrestling with going through with it. Just rebuilt my na6 motor and I dont wanna have to rebuild again. I won't run more than 8psi to keep things safe but still a little hesitant
@@donovinmiller3532 makes sense, but at 8-15 psi you're pretty save, also it's all in the tune too, I was very conservative at 15 psi and handled it no problem with the abuse, that engine owed me nothing after what I put it through lol, then I made the spicy 18 psi tune and that's when it blew, don't be too scared of it, once boosted you'll want more lol, do a 10 psi waste gate with a boost controller, that's how I started, got comfortable with my tuning at 10 psi then went from there
@@kenneyt2720 Yeah, was wanting the full kit. He has a facebook page where he just posted a bunch of newly cast manifolds, but I'm sure they're for backorders.
@@kenneyt2720 not gonna happen. I ordered over a month ago and honestly setting my hopes for March2022. From what I hear he has long wait times but def we’ll worth it
I hope you're using fuel submersion rated crimps and hose (SAE J30R10) :) The fuel hose you took out looks to have degraded consistent with non submersion rated hose.
Those hose clamps may rust over time in the E85. Zip ties may be a more reliable solution, and have proven to last in E85. Why not both? Redundant materials.
Very well explained as always sir, well done and congrats on doing such a fine job. And very impressed you stuck to your word over 2.5yrs after I did this, I'm honored to have been mentioned :-)
This is great timing; I'm about to go troubleshoot mine and figure out why I have no fuel pump action in my stock NB. It was nice to see you open everything up and I have a better idea of what I'm getting into. Even us stock engine guys benefit from your videos. Thanks for doing what you do!
I’m Litterly doing a similar build with my Miata Currently the block is in the shop getting work then time to put it together. You have really been a big influence and I cannot wait to document it
Great job. The only issue with that fuel filter setup is what you saw... it's common for a line to give out at the filter due to the restriction there and if the filter is in your engine bay there's a higher chance of a fire. Just keep up with maintenance of the filter and inspect the lines periodically and you should be fine.
I love the concept of turning your pre-existing power lines into relay signals. My roommate did the same process with some crazy bright lights in a ratty old pre-tacoma Toyota pickup. Gotta love the security of not burning your cars original wiring harness.
I don't even own an MX5 or Miata, I'm from the other side of town with an Mr2 Roadster/Spyder. But watching this channel, gave me the confidence to turbo charge and fully map my own car. Great channel and keep up the good work! 500hp in no time!
Something I learned after the fact for mine is an additional safety measure to using a crimp with heat shrink is to splice in two different sections for each wire, that way if they were to ever be exposed they are even less likely to contact the other wire. Maybe it'll be helpful to someone else before they splice into theirs.
Bro I promise you were a big part for me to buy my nb... (bought is 3 cylinder and fixed it home! Never fixed a car before appart from maintenance) ...and man I love your car as much as mine so much that I'd like to see it bit better protected from corrosion (even in my nb that was the first thing to do and I still got some more road to do) ! So that's a friendly reminder to fix every spot of surface rust !
Blew my main relay after about 8/9 years with a larger fuel pump (for those who don't know, the main relay feeds power to the fuel pump relay.) I hit the easy button and got the higher amp relay out of a MPV. ($7 at a junk yard vs $80ish brand new online) I also have this hard wire kit ready to go, since June, but SCREW GETTING UNDER THE DASH! Planned on doing mine the very same way. Happy to see it's just as easy as I thought but now I feel bad for how I keep putting it off. Ready to see that 500+hp!!!!
Good call out with the Id1300s and the skunk2 manifold, I plugged the adapters in and then installed the injectors, but it was still very tight and I was worried about getting a good seal. No leaks thus far! Cant wait to see this thing make 500whp!
PLEASSEEE send another “How fast is it” video!!!! 60-130 pulls again to compare to the last video at 400hp!! You the man! Thanks for all the content good sir
Fun fact, rising rate and boost referenced fuel pressure regulators are not the same thing (16:45). Rising rate is generally not linear (so 1psi of boost may be an increase of more than 1psi of fuel). Boost referenced are always a 1:1 relationship, although often this will decrease to 0.8psi fuel to 1psi boost or so at 20-30psi of boost pressure - it depends on the regulator itself as to what point that changes. Anywho, just wanted to mention that quick tidbit. Nice video.
I'm about to do this and am a little confused. You cut 2 wires at the harness before it connects to the fuel pump (the power and ground). I get the part where you split the blue and yellow wire one going to the pump and one going back to the relay. What I don't get is why you cut the ground wire and capped it? I'm not saying it's wrong I'm just seeing other ways people have done this and they said all they did was cut the power wire and connect the blue and the yellow wire. I think in the directions it just mentions splicing into the power and not cutting 2 wires (power and ground)
smart on the plug modification. I went the manifold flange trimming method on my build and it was terrible. Thankfully i had the manifold off at the time i realized the interference. This was on id1050x's
Be careful with vasoline. I found out that it can make rubber O-rings swell. (Bathroom sink, so it may not apply to the injector O-rings). I always now use dielectric grease (like for sparkplug wires)
I Really enjoy your videos. Although I'm keeping my Miata as OEM+, your work has been invaluable for me and many others. Every video you put out, I'm always learning something. Perhaps some day I'll have the confidence to turbo my Miata.
Awesome job, cant wait for 500hp. Consider also a fuel cooler on return line. I had issues with 320lhp pump. Pump was dying after more the 6hr of running. Fuel cooler with tiny fan solved the problem.
I had a similar problem with my VVT engine dying at startup, and it was because the activated VVT was adding more air than the WUE was set for. I combat this by deactivating it till WUE ended.
I would add grease the rubber seal on the connector for the pump, ran into fuses blowing constantly and that was because the connector was getting fuel in it
Great video as always. Please consider the Fuel Lap filter a necessary upgrade with ID injectors. Two friends suffered clogged ID injectors running the OEM filter only.
Obviously it works, obviously it’s fine. But there is always something about connectors sitting inside the fuel that will always weird me out. Electricity hanging out in a flammable liquid. Sounds great. 🤣🤣 Nicely done dad, bring on that 500 HP!!
Even more fun to think about how the fuel cools the pump. Always running on a low tank is a sure way to strain the pump into an early death as it overheats without being surrounded by liquid (flammable liquid in this case).
Taking the pump out looks so much easier with no soft top. I had towels all over my driver seat and was still saying "sorry sorry sorry" to the car as I pulled it up over the seat and out the door lol
Hey Greg is think the hard starting of car for the first time you start is due to e85 and the engine being cold. My friend has a 500hp Honda Civic on e85 and he has to start it a couple of time to get it idling. Sounds exactly the same.
One correction to point out - what you have is a MAP referenced 1:1 FPR, not a rising rate. A rising rate would increase fuel pressure MORE than manifold pressure, say at 3:1 ratio or more
Hey dad great vid and th cuz now I know to just go straight to 1300 instead of 1000cc injectors for my next upgrade 😉 e85 capable is my next goal then breaking some 1.6 power goals 💪🏽🏎🤘🏼✌🏽peace n love pops lol stay rad bro
But doesn't this mean the factory cables you've left behind become the weak point and aren't correctly sized? I am asking because im in the middle of upgrading my fuel system wiring
so i turboed my car and i put a stronger fuel pump in and it was working perfectly fine until one day it didn’t. i replaced the stock fuel pump relay and still nothing. I already tested my fuel pump separately and confirmed that it is good. would this fuel pump hardwire kit fix my problem ? personally i would think so bc it would be getting its power directly from the battery but just a question for you greg and anyone who happens to see this. Thanks and have a great day !
I have a similar set up for my 1995 turbo Miata, I went off the same signal wire for my hardwire relay, works fine sometimes but other times I’ll be driving and the stock relay and the hardwired relay get hot and then the car starts to run weird, any ideas?
I bet if you bypass the stock fuel lines and go with larger AN fittings instead of the restrictive stock stuff, I bet you won't have any more fuel issues.
I had the exact same question. Going off Deatschwerks procedure, it doesn't even mention snipping the ground wire. The ground wire from the new relay is essentially just meant to ground it. The existing ground should be sufficient.
Hey Greg, I wanted to ask how much your car weighs after all the mods. With you making 500+HP and depending on your weight, you are the definition of mustang killer! Also Miatadad, does my laundry list before I turbo sound good? 1. Bushings all around, 2. Coilovers, 3 Torsen Swap (1993 LE, so it came with a vlsd 🤢) 4. Standalone 5. Turbo! I am looking to make a reasonable 140-200, I also already have ARP head and main studs. I want to be able to keep up with traffic and have some fun with turbo noises. But I also want to be able to corner amazingly! What Power number would be reasonable to allow me to corner just as good without overdoing it? (I also bought my miata with some weightloss apparently.. owner removed AC and PS for manual rack..
If you're only making 200 a simple turbo setup, and maybe head studs would be more than enough. But I think if you really want, do rods, maybe pistons, and go for a good 300
Buddy, that fuel pump is just pre-meditated upgrade for your 35hp WET SHOT nitrous to spool the turbo up faster. Read up on it, it's safe just cutoff at 8-10psi during WOT only - the bottle should last a LONG time under this scenario.
Real talk - if I was going to do a nitrous spool setup I'd definitely go +2 sizes on the turbo. This thing doesn't leave me wanting any faster response. With spray it would be sick to have something that could spool as fast but actually be able to breath/be efficient at 500-550. This turbo is having its neck rung at 500 😅
EDIT: Found the solution. Check my reply. It seems to be rushed over in the video, but where did you get the connection for the blue DW wire from? I’m trying the install and don’t know where to source a switched wire from.
Nevermind! Figured it out. Yellow on the DW piece connects direct to the blue/red factory wire on pigtail side (goes to fuel pump) and the blue connects to the other half of that blue/red factory wire (goes to the factory fuel relay). Thanks for the video!
@@dilberadam The one thing I'm curious about is if it's essential to snip the existing ground wire or not from the factory harness. I'm tempted to leave mine in tact, but not sure what havoc that could cause.
Hey man I love you videos and have learned a ton from all your content. Question for you ... What fuel line are you using with the E85? And have you noticed any of it deteriorating? I'm making the switch to E85 on my MS3 S480 turbo 460 bbf and curious about fuel line. I'm currently using the Jegs Pro-Flow 250 stuff which had been great so far. Thanks!
I've been using standard 7.9mm fuel line, nothing special, the lines that I showed having issues in the car have been in there for 6-7 years of pure E85. I should probably convert the whole fuel system to something better, but I really haven't had much trouble so far.
@@TheCarPassionChannel that's really good to hear some real world experience. I keep being told that my lines won't work with E85 but I bet they would be just fine and if they last 7 years I'd be happy with that. Keep up the good work brother, you are killing it!
I want to see your car lined up with something else. I just cannot fathom it putting down this level of power I just feel like a 400hp Golf R will still manage to gap it lmao
I think the 2 weak points of any high powered miata build against other cars is traction without weight and the gearing of the transmission. 4000 lbs cars can roast the tires with 500hp, trying to keep a 2100 lbs car from doing it could be damn near impossible. Then you need a gear ratio that allows you to maximize that power for your intended purpose, stock NA miata gearing requires 3rd gear just to hit 60 mph. I know he's not a stock transmission anymore but without really customizing the gearing it's a weak point for the power delivery.
ID injectors supposedly spray best around 100psi, so 60 base + ~30psi boost (1:1 reg) gets me pretty close. Stock base FB on the NB motors is around 55psi
Greg I followed you from the beginning when I bought my completely stock NB in 2016 I had practically no automotive knowledge too... Now I've got $15k+ into the car w/ a built bottom end making 380whp and I did all the labor myself... I'm torn though; do I build the head and do the ZF/getrag swap (approx another 5k+) or do I just part out and go LS. I could see 500/600 doing the head. My rear-end and trans is a ticking time bomb right now anyways as they're both stock. What do you say?
That's awesome to hear man! That's a tough call, but I think in the end you'll likely be more happy with the LS if that's the power level you're going for. It depends what you really enjoy, if you really love that turbo 4-cylinder action maybe build the head + turbo upsize or whatever it takes to get you there, it's just always going to come with unforseen issues as the power goes up, as you might already know. Good luck with whatever route you choose!
@@TheCarPassionChannel thanks alot Greg! I appreciate the quick response. I do hate giving up on platforms and I do love the turbo BP. I guess I'll have to continue giving it thought. By no means do I have tons of money laying around LS swapping won't be something I could do easily financially. Ultimately I've got a running car now and LS swapping might put it out of the game for awhile. Thanks for the insight!
@@LiveToRidee If you wan to discuss your exact setup and what you can do to squeeze more power out of it without spending unnecessary money to shoot me a DM! Although if you already built a 400hp Miata you probably already know the answers haha
@@TheCarPassionChannel appreciate it Greg! If I think of anything I'll hit you up. I could crank up the boost but I think 26psi is good enough for now lol
yup should have put it in the back of the car where the old one was. upgrade all your lines. its 20-30 years old. its not that expense. youre risking more.
@@TheCarPassionChannel Yes e85. -6an feed and stock return on my evox which I think is around -4an. I do want to clarify it was a dyno jet. Base pressure around 43psi with 1650s, also was at like 100% duty lol.
@@mikelbring Still even regardless of duty cycle/injector size that means the pump can flow it! The math I was going off of is since the 340LPH started dropping pressure right around 450whp in my car, the 450LPH should support 595whp; but I'm sure I'm seeing a decent pressure drop on my 100% stock fuel lines so that could definitely open up some potential. I'm not too worried about it though because the turbo itself is basically at the limit at 500whp. P.s. I'll bet that thing is absolutely sick, I drove a 475whp Evo and that was super fun already
@@TheCarPassionChannel I think every fuel pump manufacturer uses a different "rating" as well. Keep up the good videos, makes me wanna get a miata! (This evo makes 900whp now lol)
Not true on the crimpers tho its water proof(er) shit gets in wheter u like it or now... however it begs the question... why would u have water in ur fueltank ?
Wait a sec. You're still using factory hard lines for fuel? I imagine you're probably pushing your pump an extra 20psi higher to make up for the pressure drop lol
I just want to tell you thank you dad!! I started watching your RUclips since broke and boosted, you've motivated me so much and influenced me to build the hell out of my miata, I've had the car 3 years now, boosted for 1 year and recently blew it up, now I'm rebuiding all back up, I couldn't be more excited, I had a rough start of the year, it felt like life kept pulling me down, especially when the car blew up, everytime I lose motivation and feel like I can't anymore, feel like giving up, I always go back and rewatch the rebirth videos, and now videos of your 500hp vvt beast! you really have and keep pushing me to keep going, keep working on my dreams, and never give up, so I just want to thank you for being the best miata dad, you have helped me through so many rough patches, I just thought I'd tell you how much you've helped me and keep re motivating me!
How much power were you running when you blew? And about how much boost?
Thanks for checking in man that's great to hear!
@@donovinmiller3532 250 whp at 15 psi, stock internal 1.6. Took an entire year of harsh abuse like a champ! Got too ballsey and tried 18psi. Then rod #4 became an astronaut 😂
@@colebina5271 unfortunate. I've done all the research in terms of what I need for my own turbo build i'm just wrestling with going through with it. Just rebuilt my na6 motor and I dont wanna have to rebuild again. I won't run more than 8psi to keep things safe but still a little hesitant
@@donovinmiller3532 makes sense, but at 8-15 psi you're pretty save, also it's all in the tune too, I was very conservative at 15 psi and handled it no problem with the abuse, that engine owed me nothing after what I put it through lol, then I made the spicy 18 psi tune and that's when it blew, don't be too scared of it, once boosted you'll want more lol, do a 10 psi waste gate with a boost controller, that's how I started, got comfortable with my tuning at 10 psi then went from there
Just waiting for the money to buy that kraken exhaust system and then, after many months of saving/building, I'll be ready to drive :D
like the whole manifold too? ive been wanting a kraken setup but nobody has them in stock.
@@kenneyt2720 Yeah, was wanting the full kit. He has a facebook page where he just posted a bunch of newly cast manifolds, but I'm sure they're for backorders.
@@debbiereynolds7759 i gotcha, thanks :) i wonder if its possible to get a manifold this winter
@@kenneyt2720 not gonna happen. I ordered over a month ago and honestly setting my hopes for March2022. From what I hear he has long wait times but def we’ll worth it
@@aafmirq777 bummer, ill have to find some other route then, would love to have it set up before next season
Hey, nice shirt!
Also, this is making me want to turn up the boost on the K swap... RIP that 6 speed maybe.
I hope you're using fuel submersion rated crimps and hose (SAE J30R10) :)
The fuel hose you took out looks to have degraded consistent with non submersion rated hose.
Those hose clamps may rust over time in the E85. Zip ties may be a more reliable solution, and have proven to last in E85.
Why not both? Redundant materials.
The zip ties are typically nylon which seems to hold up pretty well submerged in E85. Just make sure the metal hose clamps are good stainless ones.
Very well explained as always sir, well done and congrats on doing such a fine job. And very impressed you stuck to your word over 2.5yrs after I did this, I'm honored to have been mentioned :-)
This is great timing; I'm about to go troubleshoot mine and figure out why I have no fuel pump action in my stock NB. It was nice to see you open everything up and I have a better idea of what I'm getting into.
Even us stock engine guys benefit from your videos. Thanks for doing what you do!
I’m Litterly doing a similar build with my Miata Currently the block is in the shop getting work then time to put it together. You have really been a big influence and I cannot wait to document it
Also I believe you are in cali but would you sell your 1000cc old injectors
Great job. The only issue with that fuel filter setup is what you saw... it's common for a line to give out at the filter due to the restriction there and if the filter is in your engine bay there's a higher chance of a fire. Just keep up with maintenance of the filter and inspect the lines periodically and you should be fine.
Hardlines would be best.
@@aygwm And always keep a fire extinguisher in your tuner car lol and know how to use it :D
I love the concept of turning your pre-existing power lines into relay signals.
My roommate did the same process with some crazy bright lights in a ratty old pre-tacoma Toyota pickup. Gotta love the security of not burning your cars original wiring harness.
I don't even own an MX5 or Miata, I'm from the other side of town with an Mr2 Roadster/Spyder. But watching this channel, gave me the confidence to turbo charge and fully map my own car. Great channel and keep up the good work! 500hp in no time!
Something I learned after the fact for mine is an additional safety measure to using a crimp with heat shrink is to splice in two different sections for each wire, that way if they were to ever be exposed they are even less likely to contact the other wire. Maybe it'll be helpful to someone else before they splice into theirs.
Bro I promise you were a big part for me to buy my nb... (bought is 3 cylinder and fixed it home! Never fixed a car before appart from maintenance) ...and man I love your car as much as mine so much that I'd like to see it bit better protected from corrosion (even in my nb that was the first thing to do and I still got some more road to do) ! So that's a friendly reminder to fix every spot of surface rust !
Blew my main relay after about 8/9 years with a larger fuel pump (for those who don't know, the main relay feeds power to the fuel pump relay.) I hit the easy button and got the higher amp relay out of a MPV. ($7 at a junk yard vs $80ish brand new online) I also have this hard wire kit ready to go, since June, but SCREW GETTING UNDER THE DASH! Planned on doing mine the very same way. Happy to see it's just as easy as I thought but now I feel bad for how I keep putting it off. Ready to see that 500+hp!!!!
Good call out with the Id1300s and the skunk2 manifold, I plugged the adapters in and then installed the injectors, but it was still very tight and I was worried about getting a good seal. No leaks thus far! Cant wait to see this thing make 500whp!
PLEASSEEE send another “How fast is it” video!!!! 60-130 pulls again to compare to the last video at 400hp!! You the man! Thanks for all the content good sir
Definitely as soon as I re-tune it on the new fuel system and a couple other goodies
Yasssss you are helping me learn so much through my 5-600 whp NC Build. Can’t thank you enough for the content. Keep it coming!
Fun fact, rising rate and boost referenced fuel pressure regulators are not the same thing (16:45). Rising rate is generally not linear (so 1psi of boost may be an increase of more than 1psi of fuel). Boost referenced are always a 1:1 relationship, although often this will decrease to 0.8psi fuel to 1psi boost or so at 20-30psi of boost pressure - it depends on the regulator itself as to what point that changes.
Anywho, just wanted to mention that quick tidbit. Nice video.
Ok this man is nuts.
I'm about to do this and am a little confused. You cut 2 wires at the harness before it connects to the fuel pump (the power and ground). I get the part where you split the blue and yellow wire one going to the pump and one going back to the relay. What I don't get is why you cut the ground wire and capped it? I'm not saying it's wrong I'm just seeing other ways people have done this and they said all they did was cut the power wire and connect the blue and the yellow wire. I think in the directions it just mentions splicing into the power and not cutting 2 wires (power and ground)
Great to see you back bro 🤜🏼🤛🏼
You never know when you need more hp than needed! Keep it up with the videos you rock!
smart on the plug modification. I went the manifold flange trimming method on my build and it was terrible. Thankfully i had the manifold off at the time i realized the interference. This was on id1050x's
dont forget to book yourself a full dyno day, you said to remind you last video.
cannot get enough of miata dad content
Thanks
Thank you!
Be careful with vasoline. I found out that it can make rubber O-rings swell. (Bathroom sink, so it may not apply to the injector O-rings). I always now use dielectric grease (like for sparkplug wires)
I Really enjoy your videos. Although I'm keeping my Miata as OEM+, your work has been invaluable for me and many others. Every video you put out, I'm always learning something. Perhaps some day I'll have the confidence to turbo my Miata.
Genius way of wiring in a fuel pump
Awesome job, cant wait for 500hp. Consider also a fuel cooler on return line. I had issues with 320lhp pump. Pump was dying after more the 6hr of running. Fuel cooler with tiny fan solved the problem.
I was thinking about doing 2 staged pumps for this reason, we'll see how it goes!
Hyped for this! Another great video. Interesting point on the wiring, didn’t think about the resistance versus distance.
The kemso pump rock for the money
This video is aspirations. Seriously. I just want to say "The motor that I built, in my garage, made 500whp" looking forward to results Tree.
That's TEETH to you buddy 😂
I had a similar problem with my VVT engine dying at startup, and it was because the activated VVT was adding more air than the WUE was set for. I combat this by deactivating it till WUE ended.
I would add grease the rubber seal on the connector for the pump, ran into fuses blowing constantly and that was because the connector was getting fuel in it
Great video as always. Please consider the Fuel Lap filter a necessary upgrade with ID injectors. Two friends suffered clogged ID injectors running the OEM filter only.
Obviously it works, obviously it’s fine.
But there is always something about connectors sitting inside the fuel that will always weird me out. Electricity hanging out in a flammable liquid. Sounds great.
🤣🤣
Nicely done dad, bring on that 500 HP!!
Even more fun to think about how the fuel cools the pump. Always running on a low tank is a sure way to strain the pump into an early death as it overheats without being surrounded by liquid (flammable liquid in this case).
Appreciate the videos! 👌
Ultimate street car🔥🔥🔥
500 from 4 over fuelled small cylinders will send crank to International Space Station. Well done.
Great video as always Miata father!
Creg always with the fire.
Try enrich the ase setting for the shut off after startup
Yeah ran out of pump at 445whp. Was running an AEM340 going bad. Now running a Hellcat welbro525 pump. 2200cc injectors.
Super stoked!
Taking the pump out looks so much easier with no soft top. I had towels all over my driver seat and was still saying "sorry sorry sorry" to the car as I pulled it up over the seat and out the door lol
😂😂 I can picture this
I’ve been away from RUclips for a while. I missed seeing the red beast bro 😎
Can’t wait to see a satisfied smile on yo’ face!
Hey Greg is think the hard starting of car for the first time you start is due to e85 and the engine being cold. My friend has a 500hp Honda Civic on e85 and he has to start it a couple of time to get it idling. Sounds exactly the same.
“The Red Car” needs a name.
dont feel bad, I just had to use hoseclamps to secure my walbro 450 into the sender unit of my SN95 mustang
Hi dad! Please make sure you also set injector dead times and voltage compensation!
crimp style constant tension hose clamps might not be a bad idea for the hose inside the tank
It's ya boi, with Miata Monday Comments!
Where does discuss Greg? transmission and differential upgrades to handle this power?
He yeah man. Another good flick.
One correction to point out - what you have is a MAP referenced 1:1 FPR, not a rising rate. A rising rate would increase fuel pressure MORE than manifold pressure, say at 3:1 ratio or more
100whp squad where you at?
Corrected?…
Street cred is very important
Awesome video! 🙌❤️🔥❤️🙌
Hey dad great vid and th cuz now I know to just go straight to 1300 instead of 1000cc injectors for my next upgrade 😉 e85 capable is my next goal then breaking some 1.6 power goals 💪🏽🏎🤘🏼✌🏽peace n love pops lol stay rad bro
"I'll fix that in post"
*doesn't*
what an absolute madman
😂😂
Miata Papi posts and work be damned, I'm watching.
Your commentary is so good 😂
17:38 excited belt squeal
But doesn't this mean the factory cables you've left behind become the weak point and aren't correctly sized? I am asking because im in the middle of upgrading my fuel system wiring
so i turboed my car and i put a stronger fuel pump in and it was working perfectly fine until one day it didn’t. i replaced the stock fuel pump relay and still nothing. I already tested my fuel pump separately and confirmed that it is good. would this fuel pump hardwire kit fix my problem ? personally i would think so bc it would be getting its power directly from the battery but just a question for you greg and anyone who happens to see this. Thanks and have a great day !
Hey apologies... I'm not on any social media...but is there a up date on the NB? I apologize if I miss info on it in a past video.
It's been on the back burner for a while since I've been working on the red car, NB stuff is coming back soon!
On the factory fuel relay, jumper the wires.
I have a similar set up for my 1995 turbo Miata, I went off the same signal wire for my hardwire relay, works fine sometimes but other times I’ll be driving and the stock relay and the hardwired relay get hot and then the car starts to run weird, any ideas?
Is more content from the NB Mazda coming?
I bet if you bypass the stock fuel lines and go with larger AN fittings instead of the restrictive stock stuff, I bet you won't have any more fuel issues.
Do you know if there is a downside to not snipping the ground wire in the wiring harness for the fuel pump? It's just an extra ground, yes?
I had the exact same question. Going off Deatschwerks procedure, it doesn't even mention snipping the ground wire. The ground wire from the new relay is essentially just meant to ground it. The existing ground should be sufficient.
Disconnect the positive (harness side) of the battery, or both.
Can you explain why you installed the injectors with the connector pointed towards the front of the car instead of downward like stock NB?
Yes, I did explain it in the video. New style ID injectors have to be installed this way, they don't fit any other way
Excited to see 500 plus grep. I hope uncle Rodney doesn't make a visit
We don't say that here
Who in the world goes and dislikes one of Miata Dad's videos?
Love it!
Would you make one for a 89-f150 bottom rear diffuser
Hey Greg, I wanted to ask how much your car weighs after all the mods. With you making 500+HP and depending on your weight, you are the definition of mustang killer!
Also Miatadad, does my laundry list before I turbo sound good? 1. Bushings all around, 2. Coilovers, 3 Torsen Swap (1993 LE, so it came with a vlsd 🤢) 4. Standalone 5. Turbo!
I am looking to make a reasonable 140-200, I also already have ARP head and main studs. I want to be able to keep up with traffic and have some fun with turbo noises. But I also want to be able to corner amazingly! What Power number would be reasonable to allow me to corner just as good without overdoing it?
(I also bought my miata with some weightloss apparently.. owner removed AC and PS for manual rack..
If you're only making 200 a simple turbo setup, and maybe head studs would be more than enough. But I think if you really want, do rods, maybe pistons, and go for a good 300
Are you still using stock size fuel hoses?? Wouldn’t it help flow to upgrade to -8 -6
Buddy, that fuel pump is just pre-meditated upgrade for your 35hp WET SHOT nitrous to spool the turbo up faster. Read up on it, it's safe just cutoff at 8-10psi during WOT only - the bottle should last a LONG time under this scenario.
Real talk - if I was going to do a nitrous spool setup I'd definitely go +2 sizes on the turbo. This thing doesn't leave me wanting any faster response. With spray it would be sick to have something that could spool as fast but actually be able to breath/be efficient at 500-550. This turbo is having its neck rung at 500 😅
EDIT: Found the solution. Check my reply.
It seems to be rushed over in the video, but where did you get the connection for the blue DW wire from?
I’m trying the install and don’t know where to source a switched wire from.
Nevermind! Figured it out.
Yellow on the DW piece connects direct to the blue/red factory wire on pigtail side (goes to fuel pump) and the blue connects to the other half of that blue/red factory wire (goes to the factory fuel relay).
Thanks for the video!
@@dilberadam The one thing I'm curious about is if it's essential to snip the existing ground wire or not from the factory harness. I'm tempted to leave mine in tact, but not sure what havoc that could cause.
Rip to the ethanol murdered in tank fuel hose
F ❤️
Why so high on the base fuel pressure? I thought 43.5 was the normal base.
Why not solder all them joints?
Hey man I love you videos and have learned a ton from all your content. Question for you ... What fuel line are you using with the E85? And have you noticed any of it deteriorating? I'm making the switch to E85 on my MS3 S480 turbo 460 bbf and curious about fuel line. I'm currently using the Jegs Pro-Flow 250 stuff which had been great so far. Thanks!
I've been using standard 7.9mm fuel line, nothing special, the lines that I showed having issues in the car have been in there for 6-7 years of pure E85. I should probably convert the whole fuel system to something better, but I really haven't had much trouble so far.
@@TheCarPassionChannel that's really good to hear some real world experience. I keep being told that my lines won't work with E85 but I bet they would be just fine and if they last 7 years I'd be happy with that. Keep up the good work brother, you are killing it!
What fuel pressure regulator?
Fuelab 515
Found it on other vid! Thanks dude! One more question what about flex fuel sensor?
@@WDCSRacing Just an OEM GM flex fuel sensor, not sure the part number. But just a basic part out of a Silverado or something random haha
I want to see your car lined up with something else. I just cannot fathom it putting down this level of power I just feel like a 400hp Golf R will still manage to gap it lmao
I think the 2 weak points of any high powered miata build against other cars is traction without weight and the gearing of the transmission. 4000 lbs cars can roast the tires with 500hp, trying to keep a 2100 lbs car from doing it could be damn near impossible. Then you need a gear ratio that allows you to maximize that power for your intended purpose, stock NA miata gearing requires 3rd gear just to hit 60 mph. I know he's not a stock transmission anymore but without really customizing the gearing it's a weak point for the power delivery.
I'm trying to get the car ready for a street style drag event before the end of the year, trust me I just wanna line up with a bunch cars for fun too
You got this Dad! I believe in you!! Smash that 500 horsepower and let’s smoke some mustangs 😎
Wow. 60psi at ideal. On the 2200cc injector. My fuel pressureat ideal is at 40psi.
ID injectors supposedly spray best around 100psi, so 60 base + ~30psi boost (1:1 reg) gets me pretty close. Stock base FB on the NB motors is around 55psi
What roll bar is in this (red) Miata?
Hard Dog Hardcore X-Brace
Greg I followed you from the beginning when I bought my completely stock NB in 2016 I had practically no automotive knowledge too... Now I've got $15k+ into the car w/ a built bottom end making 380whp and I did all the labor myself... I'm torn though; do I build the head and do the ZF/getrag swap (approx another 5k+) or do I just part out and go LS. I could see 500/600 doing the head. My rear-end and trans is a ticking time bomb right now anyways as they're both stock. What do you say?
That's awesome to hear man! That's a tough call, but I think in the end you'll likely be more happy with the LS if that's the power level you're going for. It depends what you really enjoy, if you really love that turbo 4-cylinder action maybe build the head + turbo upsize or whatever it takes to get you there, it's just always going to come with unforseen issues as the power goes up, as you might already know. Good luck with whatever route you choose!
@@TheCarPassionChannel thanks alot Greg! I appreciate the quick response. I do hate giving up on platforms and I do love the turbo BP. I guess I'll have to continue giving it thought. By no means do I have tons of money laying around LS swapping won't be something I could do easily financially. Ultimately I've got a running car now and LS swapping might put it out of the game for awhile. Thanks for the insight!
@@LiveToRidee If you wan to discuss your exact setup and what you can do to squeeze more power out of it without spending unnecessary money to shoot me a DM! Although if you already built a 400hp Miata you probably already know the answers haha
@@TheCarPassionChannel appreciate it Greg! If I think of anything I'll hit you up. I could crank up the boost but I think 26psi is good enough for now lol
In regards to the 7 year old zip ties... It's only a temporary fix if it doesn't work
Love you
The 1 thing I don’t understand is with the Miata the size that it is, and with 500+hp, how does he fit in the car with balls big enough to drive it?
😂😂 find out in the next video lmaoo
Recaro makes a special seat with a cutout.
@@s.willis8426 What if I bottom out on a speed bump 0_0
@@TheCarPassionChannel That's called "applying the Flintstone brakes"
“Adult sized cars” that killed me…
should of had that relay kit already on it. an if that hose didn't break your 1000 should have made it
yup should have put it in the back of the car where the old one was. upgrade all your lines. its 20-30 years old. its not that expense. youre risking more.
That fuel pump should be good for 700whp really. I made 670awp on it in my evo.
Is that on E85? And what size fuel line?
@@TheCarPassionChannel Yes e85. -6an feed and stock return on my evox which I think is around -4an. I do want to clarify it was a dyno jet. Base pressure around 43psi with 1650s, also was at like 100% duty lol.
@@mikelbring Still even regardless of duty cycle/injector size that means the pump can flow it! The math I was going off of is since the 340LPH started dropping pressure right around 450whp in my car, the 450LPH should support 595whp; but I'm sure I'm seeing a decent pressure drop on my 100% stock fuel lines so that could definitely open up some potential. I'm not too worried about it though because the turbo itself is basically at the limit at 500whp.
P.s. I'll bet that thing is absolutely sick, I drove a 475whp Evo and that was super fun already
@@TheCarPassionChannel I think every fuel pump manufacturer uses a different "rating" as well. Keep up the good videos, makes me wanna get a miata! (This evo makes 900whp now lol)
Not true on the crimpers tho
its water proof(er) shit gets in wheter u like it or now... however it begs the question... why would u have water in ur fueltank ?
Wait a sec. You're still using factory hard lines for fuel? I imagine you're probably pushing your pump an extra 20psi higher to make up for the pressure drop lol