Such a pleasant dinner to have, watching this breakdown, just at the right time. Greetings from italy, I hope at some point my mx5 will have a turbo on it. 🤞
I appreciate you sticking with the BP and showing what is possible. Obviously it's far from the best engine out there for making the most power, but swapping in a completely different powerplant usually involves a ton more fabrication work and money, which are things most Miata lads like myself don't have. You've built this car in your driveway and that is one hell of an achievement considering the sort of performance it managed to dish out.
Man your videos are so worth the wait. Literally one of the only channels that can keep me entertained all the way until the end, not to mention I'm still learning stuff too! Keep it up Craig and good luck on the rebuild!
Yo, if the crank is bent, i said in an earlier video about the 2.1L forged crank stroker kitt you can get for these engines. it would be nice to see one of those boosted with the testing you do. Great videos as always, I have followed this car since the MS install and the china turbo days :D
@@nickespo89 Maruha makes those stroker kits, just google maruha stroker kit and it will lead you to a new world of parts you didnt even knew you wanted :)
I can’t put my finger on it but something about the production quality seems even higher than usual this episode, maybe it’s the haircut… but seriously, great work as always!
Good job and great video! I would assume the reason for your main caps cracked, was due to crankshafts flexing. I am making well over 500 hp and still running the stock caps, which got me thinking why mine haven't cracked yet? I have installed a stroker kit that uses a moldex crankshaft that is way more sturdy then the oem one's. Just a thought! so let me know if yours is out of shape. But I must say that you have got me thinking 🤔 By the way, sorry that I still haven't replied your mail. Will get back to you Best Regards Bassam Rammaha Denmark
7:25 i recommend you strength the oil feeder system, either make a bracket/ change fitting direction... I concern it due your solid mounts and engine vib, it can crack and goes dry
@@alexstromberg7696 i mean the oil adapter... mine had snap (same kind contraption) due vibration (on diesel) luckily, i saw the press go 0, so i could pull over and no $ happend, just make big mess on the road....
awesome infos here. will help me push the boundaries of my engine (though it's not a miata engine) my project is on a Peugeot 205, with the 1.7 NA diesel engine. I want to turbo it and push it from 60hp/120Nm to 200hp/400Nm, which is a lot for that engine.
@@jefftoonstra5087 I will, but it'll be in french. I'm french and although I am quite good at English, I don't plan to become a RUclipsr so reaching only a small audience doesn't matter to me, plus people building diesel Peugeot engines are mainly french speakers, so they way I can hopefully get people together
Just a thought on the rod bearings- Since the oil path for the rod bearings goes through the crank, as the crank pushed away from the top bearing (where the oil feed is,) the crank and rod bearings would both lose oil pressure. This could be the cause of your excessive rod bearing wear. Do you happen to have a log of the oil pressure before and after the failure?
Maybe a slightly more aggressive cam with a slightly milder tune/boost might reduce your mid range torque values while retaining your top end power. Might make the car feel less power but it could ease the stress on your powertrain and drivetrain, plus it may also reduce wheel spin when launching the car.
An engine that gets little acknowledgment in aftermarket are the Suzuki M13A, 15 etc. They are far better than all the 4 cylinders around this time, yet they have little aftermarket support. I guess its because the cars they came out in. These engines have 4 bolt billet caps from factory.
Instead of sending it to a machine shop. You could always get a honing stone and do it diy. I was weird about it the first time I did it but after that. That's what I do every time
Unsure if you'll see this message on an older video but I would be very interested in seeing how your interactions with a machine shop would go. I do intend to build my stock miata motor to something fun and would love to shoot for 450+ whp but I have 0 experience working with machine shops (aside from work) and would love to see how I can be absolutely prepared to bring my block/head in for work without making the shop's job harder. Love the videos Greg!
Don't have time to give you the full breakdown but it's pretty much the same as a stock rebuild if you're talking about the block itself. Let them know it's for higher power with boost, if you're doing upgraded main studs bring them the block with those studs. At the bottom of this page I list out all of my clearances for my previous engine: thecarpassionchannel.com/VVT-MEGA-PAGE
Are you planning to put a girdle on the mains? We use this to keep our stock block 460's together a over 7500rpm in pull trucks. I know you can cad one up in fusion and have someone make it.
Hi Greg, just to get you rid of anxiety regarding the front cap intake cam screw, it seems they are t27 and not t25.. try with it and you feel more peacefull 👌🤗
I use Valvoline VR1, my mains are 0.0018-0.0020", and my rods are 0.0020-0.0022" 🙂 I also have a full spec sheet for the rebuild of this engine here: www.thecarpassionchannel.com/vvt-mega-page-v2
I TOTALLY AGREE with you about engine swaps!!! I think it bastardizes the car! I hate too when people get Miatas and change the front of the car so much you can't tell what the heck it is. Best Always,
@13:28 It was the stock engine that is about it and sometimes an engine swap is a more sensible option compared to spending tons of money on upgrading the stock engine. 🤔
Im sure you have covered this before, but what headgasket are you running? It looks like a SCE Vulcan Cut-Ring Head Gaskets CR330057, but i just wanted to confirm. Thanks Greg for being such a inspiration to all of us!
holy shit not only did you manage to get all 3 of those stupid torx bolts off the intake cam gear without stripping them, but you reused them?! Clearly you are a madman! I've never been able to get one of those stupid bolts off without it instantly stripping, even using high quality hardened torx bits. Also, those replacement bolts are super cheap and you can get them from Mazda. Don't tempt fate.
It's at least the 6-7th time I've pulled them, and they legit get 5% more stripped every single time. I NEED to get new ones. In fact I'm gonna order them right now
@@TheCarPassionChannel yeah smart move lol. I need to get one of those screwdriver impact tools that you whack with a hammer, I hear those work pretty good on these kind of screws
I know everyone knowledgeable in the field says BPs don't like to rev and don't bother trying -- which I believe to be totally correct, but yet high rpm is fun even if there ain't a whole lot of power (if any) to be had up there... my question is: Would billet main caps be a good idea for a build targeting reliability for a mostly street-driven Naturally Aspirated BP4W aiming for 8000-8500 rpm fuel cut? For that matter, is Maruha's stock stroke crankshaft a good idea? Power aside. I'm one of the weirdos OK with smol power for street car miatas seems like. The stock BP crank has a reputation for being about as stiff as a wet noodle at that RPM, so just asking some stupid questions about how to get around that.
I sent my head to the shop and it required some fixes on the camshaft journal surfaces, resurface, installing some oversized valves, new bronze manganese valve guides and porting... That was about a year ago, I still have not received the head back... 🙁
I was thinking of building my motor, and wanted to go +1mm for pistons, I have no clue what compression ratio to go with though, what compression ratio did you go with?
Which cylinder head studs are you running there? Are those already the Chrysler one, as they look pretty beefy? Last time on dyno I had 450Nm at 4000rpm and fuelsystem was pressurized, so I belief my current ARP head studs didnt hold the head in place. Now I think about to swap them to Chrysler studs (220k psi vs. 190k psi).
How many degrees per lb of boost did you pull? Just curious on your definition of a ton of timing. I'm in the Civic world, and I pull .4 degree per lb of boost on my B18C1. I was curious about the Miata world.
Are you gonna get the head ported and polished? Also you said the head needs to be resurfaced because the fire rings marked it, is that the same case with the block surface?
Good info to have, I'm making a decision to either rotary or 1.8 swap at this point and this is helping me into the 1.8 land for sure, is there a cost breakdown anywhere of the 1.8 kit so far?
So many little things that almost failed that would’ve costed you sooo much more!!! But you just lucked out!!!! I love it… The Miata gods were looking over you for sure!!!!! Love your content man. I have in NB that I just put a new head on along with a bunch of other project cars I need to get moving on. I just hate the winter because it makes it so hard to work on shit. I wish you the best of luck. The 500 hp Miata what is amazing! And motivated the shit out of me!!!! Never give up man!!! _ Eric
Super sick brotha and can we get a discount code on the billet mains my brotha lol ... na but looks sick and should deff hold up .. now I got to get some lol 😆 peace n love dad stay rad and build on hope to see plenty more content in the positive range lol
With the fresh cut, daaaaamn. Really reppin the hairdresser image.
I love how you treat every challenge as an opportunity to learn. I need to take a page out of that book.
A 1.6 could handle that, heard NASA used them in the first shuttles to space.
Love the build keep pushing it!
Such a pleasant dinner to have, watching this breakdown, just at the right time. Greetings from italy, I hope at some point my mx5 will have a turbo on it. 🤞
Don't stop breaking parts , love the content 😉 0.5mm bigger piston = MORE HP 😂😂
I appreciate you sticking with the BP and showing what is possible. Obviously it's far from the best engine out there for making the most power, but swapping in a completely different powerplant usually involves a ton more fabrication work and money, which are things most Miata lads like myself don't have. You've built this car in your driveway and that is one hell of an achievement considering the sort of performance it managed to dish out.
I think I'm more impressed by that fresh cut
Man your videos are so worth the wait. Literally one of the only channels that can keep me entertained all the way until the end, not to mention I'm still learning stuff too! Keep it up Craig and good luck on the rebuild!
Facts, been watching Miata dad for years!
You should looking into getting a torque plate for miata blocks. Most shops won't carry it and helps a lot with boring and ring wear.
Yo, if the crank is bent, i said in an earlier video about the 2.1L forged crank stroker kitt you can get for these engines. it would be nice to see one of those boosted with the testing you do.
Great videos as always, I have followed this car since the MS install and the china turbo days :D
My wallet really hopes the crank is okay, because a stroker crank will be the obvious next step
Can anyone post a link to the 2.1 forged stroker kit?
@@nickespo89 Maruha makes those stroker kits, just google maruha stroker kit and it will lead you to a new world of parts you didnt even knew you wanted :)
@@TheCarPassionChannel honestly I hear the stock Miata crankshafts are strong AF
but it's still definitely possible
@@nickespo89 Bofi Racing carries them, highly recommended shop! bofiracing.co.uk/?ref=7465
Another great class. I never would have guessed those pistons would look so clean. I think you are right about when and why those bearings wore.
Greg your cut is looking fresh my man
I can’t put my finger on it but something about the production quality seems even higher than usual this episode, maybe it’s the haircut… but seriously, great work as always!
Always trying to find little areas to make better and improve overall quality, thank you!
Good job and great video!
I would assume the reason for your main caps cracked, was due to crankshafts flexing.
I am making well over 500 hp and still running the stock caps, which got me thinking why mine haven't cracked yet?
I have installed a stroker kit that uses a moldex crankshaft that is way more sturdy then the oem one's.
Just a thought! so let me know if yours is out of shape.
But I must say that you have got me thinking 🤔
By the way, sorry that I still haven't replied your mail. Will get back to you
Best Regards
Bassam Rammaha
Denmark
this vid couldn't have come at a better time boost here I come! I owe my miata and motivation to you and this car
7:25 i recommend you strength the oil feeder system,
either make a bracket/ change fitting direction...
I concern it due your solid mounts and engine vib, it can crack and goes dry
The metal pipe he removed? Those dont go dry. It's fine
@@alexstromberg7696 i mean the oil adapter... mine had snap (same kind contraption) due vibration (on diesel) luckily, i saw the press go 0, so i could pull over and no $ happend, just make big mess on the road....
awesome infos here. will help me push the boundaries of my engine (though it's not a miata engine)
my project is on a Peugeot 205, with the 1.7 NA diesel engine. I want to turbo it and push it from 60hp/120Nm to 200hp/400Nm, which is a lot for that engine.
Start a channel on your build, sounds really interesting!
@@jefftoonstra5087 I will, but it'll be in french. I'm french and although I am quite good at English, I don't plan to become a RUclipsr so reaching only a small audience doesn't matter to me, plus people building diesel Peugeot engines are mainly french speakers, so they way I can hopefully get people together
Makes sense, best of luck on your project!
Those main caps are gorgeous!!
Just saying it’s a perfect time for a maruha stroker kit 👀👀
Just a thought on the rod bearings- Since the oil path for the rod bearings goes through the crank, as the crank pushed away from the top bearing (where the oil feed is,) the crank and rod bearings would both lose oil pressure. This could be the cause of your excessive rod bearing wear. Do you happen to have a log of the oil pressure before and after the failure?
That's a really good point. And unfortunately no, I don't have oil pressure hooked up to MS
Craig looking nice and fresh
Geez man, that engine was so unbelievably close to completely grenading... Good catch, got it just in time
Maybe a slightly more aggressive cam with a slightly milder tune/boost might reduce your mid range torque values while retaining your top end power. Might make the car feel less power but it could ease the stress on your powertrain and drivetrain, plus it may also reduce wheel spin when launching the car.
I’d love a version of the shirt with the lights up
Best analogy ever for a bent main stud...
An engine that gets little acknowledgment in aftermarket are the Suzuki M13A, 15 etc. They are far better than all the 4 cylinders around this time, yet they have little aftermarket support. I guess its because the cars they came out in. These engines have 4 bolt billet caps from factory.
Amazing how motivated you are to continue developing the BP platform.
Dude, you are just the absolute best. I'm shooting for 3ish, not even gonna go for huge numbers but this content is just excellent
Glad to see ya getting it back together. I tell you though I'm mad at RUclips it never tells me when you upload anymore!
Instead of sending it to a machine shop. You could always get a honing stone and do it diy. I was weird about it the first time I did it but after that. That's what I do every time
Thank you for the link, been looking for a set of these for over 4 years
You and Jafro always go above and beyond with these videos. Hope to see this beast running even better soon ✌️
Unsure if you'll see this message on an older video but I would be very interested in seeing how your interactions with a machine shop would go. I do intend to build my stock miata motor to something fun and would love to shoot for 450+ whp but I have 0 experience working with machine shops (aside from work) and would love to see how I can be absolutely prepared to bring my block/head in for work without making the shop's job harder. Love the videos Greg!
Don't have time to give you the full breakdown but it's pretty much the same as a stock rebuild if you're talking about the block itself. Let them know it's for higher power with boost, if you're doing upgraded main studs bring them the block with those studs. At the bottom of this page I list out all of my clearances for my previous engine:
thecarpassionchannel.com/VVT-MEGA-PAGE
Are you planning to put a girdle on the mains? We use this to keep our stock block 460's together a over 7500rpm in pull trucks. I know you can cad one up in fusion and have someone make it.
Hi Greg, just to get you rid of anxiety regarding the front cap intake cam screw, it seems they are t27 and not t25.. try with it and you feel more peacefull 👌🤗
I saw Flyin Miata released new exlusive pistions, maybe something to look at??
Looking forward to the build...nice Video G.
love you craig keep this going
Homie got the fresh cut for the video too 🔥
Noti squad just in time for lunch
Great video sir. Thank you for your service 🙏 ❤️
Love these videos.
Lots of information, love it.
Thanks for sharing your Miata build on YT. Care to share your clearances for the rods and mains and what type of oil was being used?
I use Valvoline VR1, my mains are 0.0018-0.0020", and my rods are 0.0020-0.0022" 🙂 I also have a full spec sheet for the rebuild of this engine here:
www.thecarpassionchannel.com/vvt-mega-page-v2
8:40 "possibly bored out to larger size" got it. 😉👌🏻
Nice Fade Greg
yes
I TOTALLY AGREE with you about engine swaps!!! I think it bastardizes the car! I hate too when people get Miatas and change the front of the car so much you can't tell what the heck it is. Best Always,
out of curiosity: you said you were putting too much ignition advance into it, how much did it have at full 30 psi?
Damn looking fresh
Maybe get your crank knife edged to reduce rotating mass and mitigate against excess stress due to the high torque your rocketship motor producing?
The piston should be clearances to the bore, not the other way around, this is what I was told by my engine builder
Sweet main caps Greg, clearly just what you will be needing 👍
Love the videos , my block has been at the machine shop for a month , they’re super busy, praying they call me soon
cant wait to see this go back together!!
Great video and love your enthusiasm for the BP. Why not just buy another block with good bores so you don't have to buy new pistons?
@13:28 It was the stock engine that is about it and sometimes an engine swap is a more sensible option compared to spending tons of money on upgrading the stock engine. 🤔
For some people it is worth it, for others it's fun to modify the stock engine. I fall into the latter category.
Awesome vid, thanks for sharing the knowledge and experience!
Im sure you have covered this before, but what headgasket are you running? It looks like a SCE Vulcan Cut-Ring Head Gaskets CR330057, but i just wanted to confirm. Thanks Greg for being such a inspiration to all of us!
That's what I run!
Those caps are gorgeous!
Because the dial bore Guage reads in inches it's better to convert your millimeter to inches
Nice cut G!!!!
holy shit not only did you manage to get all 3 of those stupid torx bolts off the intake cam gear without stripping them, but you reused them?! Clearly you are a madman!
I've never been able to get one of those stupid bolts off without it instantly stripping, even using high quality hardened torx bits.
Also, those replacement bolts are super cheap and you can get them from Mazda. Don't tempt fate.
It's at least the 6-7th time I've pulled them, and they legit get 5% more stripped every single time. I NEED to get new ones. In fact I'm gonna order them right now
@@TheCarPassionChannel yeah smart move lol. I need to get one of those screwdriver impact tools that you whack with a hammer, I hear those work pretty good on these kind of screws
Always great content
Awesome quality content as always! Thanks Greg!
1.6 for life
Cant wait for the future vids, especially the middle list.
Dad?! Good looking haircut!
caps look great
I know everyone knowledgeable in the field says BPs don't like to rev and don't bother trying -- which I believe to be totally correct, but yet high rpm is fun even if there ain't a whole lot of power (if any) to be had up there... my question is:
Would billet main caps be a good idea for a build targeting reliability for a mostly street-driven Naturally Aspirated BP4W aiming for 8000-8500 rpm fuel cut? For that matter, is Maruha's stock stroke crankshaft a good idea? Power aside. I'm one of the weirdos OK with smol power for street car miatas seems like.
The stock BP crank has a reputation for being about as stiff as a wet noodle at that RPM, so just asking some stupid questions about how to get around that.
Higher comp and bigger cams!! ;P
Great content as usual. Glad for all the explanations
Nice vid as always. Would you consider o-ringing the block? For science of course.
I sent my head to the shop and it required some fixes on the camshaft journal surfaces, resurface, installing some oversized valves, new bronze manganese valve guides and porting... That was about a year ago, I still have not received the head back...
🙁
I wish they made those main caps for a 1.6
Tbh you're going to have trouble making enough torque out of a 1.6 to need them. Even the 500whp 1.6's I've seen typically only make 350wtq
Fresh trim bro looking good, loving the content as always. :D
man I love thrustbearing thumper thursday :)
Have you considered the 2.0 stroker kit? I found out about it recently and don't know what the limitations would be on a turbo build
literally scrolled up and saw the video, nevermind!
I was thinking of building my motor, and wanted to go +1mm for pistons, I have no clue what compression ratio to go with though, what compression ratio did you go with?
Keep that engine!
Amazing work brooo
I know some Protégé/323/Ford Escort owners that would love those caps.... 🤔
Piston are not oval, they are conical, going down to the skirts diameter increases as in all good thing 🤣
colol video good work dude
That may be true but they are also ovalled slightly even up at the ringland area.
Cool haircut, but cooler content🥰
wow I've never been this early. nice cut
I'm down for some more motivational moving parts! Lemme at those main caps.
Which cylinder head studs are you running there? Are those already the Chrysler one, as they look pretty beefy?
Last time on dyno I had 450Nm at 4000rpm and fuelsystem was pressurized, so I belief my current ARP head studs didnt hold the head in place.
Now I think about to swap them to Chrysler studs (220k psi vs. 190k psi).
How many degrees per lb of boost did you pull? Just curious on your definition of a ton of timing. I'm in the Civic world, and I pull .4 degree per lb of boost on my B18C1. I was curious about the Miata world.
Yayuh !!! 🔥🔥🔥
that DOOM HUD was great hahah, as a big fan of Brutal DOOM I approve
Is there a crack in piston number 1 or is it something else 4:36
Just a scratch
Are you gonna get the head ported and polished? Also you said the head needs to be resurfaced because the fire rings marked it, is that the same case with the block surface?
Block surface is steel, it’s usually harder to eat into than the aluminium of the head, a clean is enough provided it’s still flat!
Good info to have, I'm making a decision to either rotary or 1.8 swap at this point and this is helping me into the 1.8 land for sure, is there a cost breakdown anywhere of the 1.8 kit so far?
How much more displacement you get from 1 size over me wonder
Going from 84.0mm to 84.5mm on a stock crankshaft bumps displacement from 1884cc to 1895cc. Stock (83.0mm) is 1839cc.
looks like #1 is cracked or scarred? @4:40
Video idea!
Take a stock engine to an engine shop and machine it for boost. Or film them doing it!
The 1.6 comment was from our boy Zack 😂
How did you guess
So many little things that almost failed that would’ve costed you sooo much more!!! But you just lucked out!!!! I love it… The Miata gods were looking over you for sure!!!!! Love your content man. I have in NB that I just put a new head on along with a bunch of other project cars I need to get moving on. I just hate the winter because it makes it so hard to work on shit. I wish you the best of luck. The 500 hp Miata what is amazing! And motivated the shit out of me!!!! Never give up man!!!
_ Eric
Like the hair cut. U look different btw I love the miata videos.
Those things ARE beefy!
Super sick brotha and can we get a discount code on the billet mains my brotha lol ... na but looks sick and should deff hold up .. now I got to get some lol 😆 peace n love dad stay rad and build on hope to see plenty more content in the positive range lol