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500HP Miata Breaks A Record & Breaks Itself! (100-200km/h)
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- You know what they say, cars always run best right before they break! The next episode should be quite interesting, what are your predictions??
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0:00 Intro
0:57 Pulls & Tuning
5:02 Bad Noises & Attempting to Limp Home
5:54 Diagnosing The Car
15:02 Fire Up Without The Transmission
19:09 Realization & Outro
How fast was that 1/4 mile pull looking to be?
Unfortunately using flatshift is a bit harder on the clutch, which caused it to slip. It was only a 12.69 @ 126mph, but, for reference the 100-200km/h was only 6.71 on that run, so it's basically a throw away. The car should have no issue breaking the 130mph barrier in the quarter assuming the clutch holds on.
@@TheCarPassionChannel adjusting either the clutch grab point to be a bit lower or the position of the clutch switch could help it not to slip with FFS
@@TheJohnb35711 Most likely yes, but I've had it slip a couple times even just rolling into full boost at mid RPM. I believe the torque rating it 510lb-ft, and if that's at the crank, the motor is producing slightly more than that. I'm thinking about just upgrading the pressure plate
@@TheCarPassionChannel seems like a good call with everything apart already. i was debating saying anything since you are so methodological with all this stuff
Exhaust leak at the manifold ? Loose crank pulley ?
Thank you Mexico for providing these proving grounds
It tis the way when you are forging new territory.
If it's not the rod bearing and the noise is coming from upfront, maybe the oil pump?
As a Mexican, your welcome :)
Is there no speed limit in Mexico? Seems that youre setting yourself up driving like that in a country where corruption is so rampant.
@@andyanderson7712 yeah def DONT get pulled over in Mexico. Unless you have a wad of cash.
"-And everything went okay until!... Nah just kidding." BOYYYYY You had me lol
My miata is still sitting after I threw a rod bearing years ago and then swapped in an engine that had no compression in one cylinder lol so I feel this pain to some degree.
Lol me too!! Except I have since swapped that* engine, for another ... That has a bad HG leak into the cooling system. About to dig up a Gen III hemi and say f it. Already did a standalone this last go round so not hard to swap at this point
Yup! Did a 1.8 swap to replace a nuked 1.6 only to realize that the head was trash and low compression on cylinder 4. Finally found a good motor at a good price after months of looking. You’ve got this homie
Kinda sounds like crank walk to me. If you put the trans back in, fire it up and have someone depress the clutch while you watch the crank pulley. This is always how we did it in DSM times.
or just push/pull on the flywheel.
I’m going with thrust bearing failure.
Highly unlikely to be rod or crank bearing since the car made it home with out a problem
That was my thought as well 👍
If it were a thrust bearing it would change when the clutch were pushed in
@@hewbambam not necessarily since the clutch was acting strange and it does not make noise when the clutch is pressed the rear thrust washer would be the one that went not the front
See if the front went you would be spot on correct saying extra noise would be apparent but if the rear goes when you press the clutch it would fix the sloppy tolerance and press on the front thrust washer
But it’s all speculation until it’s taken apart and the problem is found
19:47 Crank walk/thrust bearing
Good guess Senjougahara san. That would also explain the "clutch slip"...
@@R3IMU @TheCarPassionChannel I dont know if you get notifications from replies to comments but this man makes a good point
My guess too!
@@R3IMU why it would explain clutch slip? I would say rather the effect would be no clutch disengagement rather than slip.
@@kitastan it depends on which way the crank walks right? If it goes forward the clutch will slip
On the last pull you can clearly hear increased noise on 4th gear. I don't think it is rod knock, more like main bearing knock (I had one failed me last year and it was similar noise). It may be also piston slap but I'm more on the main bearing problem. Funny think is that when main bearing spoon oil pressure dropped only by a little... Till the end I was hoping it will be simple fix 😔
If his main bearings were gone, he'd have little to no oil pressure. He does have upgraded oil pump and if it's shimmed, putting out more oil pressure flow/psi than factory then maybe he'd still have some oil pressure but you'd still see a noticeable change. It would likely be half as much as before or worst.
@@Nasonix2 like I said I had spun main bearing and the oil pressure were little lower but was still there. It may be also bend rod. We will see when he drop the oil pan.
Bought a 1990 Miata and fixing all kinds of things and your videos helped me immensely in tackling the timing belt/loctite fix. I’m now dreading pulling the trans to fix a rear seal oil leak. Lol you made pulling the trans look so easy here!
The Trans on the miata is easy it takes about 3 hrs to pull out replace the clutch and rear main seal and put it back together
The worst things always happen to the best people!
Great explanation in the video for each diagnostic test you did and why. To me, like some others have said, sounds like main bearings or crank walk. It gives a very similar sound to rod knock, but obviously every test you've done has exhausted that possibility. The only way I know to test for main bearings is by taking everything apart and visually inspecting them unfortunately. Every video that comes out with the red car is always exciting. Seeing this car progress over the years really brings me, and I'm sure a lot of other people motivation. Keep up the great work, keep your head up, and keep the amazing content coming. Sometimes the best things you can do is walk away from something, sleep on it, and start again with a clear mind.
I'm going with crank walk/thrust bearing.
Sounds like thrust bearing too me. Might be worth tapering in that 30psi 😂
Man, I wish I lived next to a guy like you. So much Miata knowledge. Thank you for the great content 🙏 😀
A couple weeks ago I was doing pulls when I lost a bit of power and my exhaust got louder. I figured the downpipe vband got loose from the heat. I tightened it, but the power loss and noise didn't go away. Checked everything I could, compression, oil, timing, ect and second guessing myself on all of it. I was racking my head trying to figure it out until I happened to notice a bolt was missing off the back of my turbo. I have a ebay special t3/t4 internal waste gate with the 5-bolt pattern that turns into a 3" v-band. Apparently when they drilled the bolt holes, they went all the way through the housing. The bolt must've gotten hot and fell out which allowed the exhaust to bypass the turbine and the O2 sensor to misread. One trip to Ace Hardware and everything was back to normal. It doesn't sound like that's your problem, but here's to hoping your issue is an uncommon stupid simple to fix too.
Hell yeah. Love these testing videos, Greg.
Thank you for the thorough diagnostics and explanations
Epic build and amazing troubleshooting. I hope we're all wrong and it's a simple fix. Felt that pain throughout the video. Whatever you do next will be faster and cooler, with this nugget or another, looking forward to that!
Just thinking how beneficial this video is to all the new people wanting to build turbo miats. Great Video!
Dude, we are here for the good times and the bad times. When you are troubleshooting, we are all troubleshooting. You have me on the edge of my seat.
I feel like we've been into this journey together. Even though you are doing all the work 😆✌️
I built the same motor you did and blew it up instantly because I vapor blasted the head and the media bonded with the residual oil 😭 feel ya man, keep pushing. I built an nb1 motor in another 6 months and now she's running again! Keep it up, it's all worth it in the end!
I’m sure whatever it ends up being, you’ll figure it out and share the knowledge. Mahalo for all you do!
Ugh, heartbreaker dude.
I’ll keep tuning in, curious to see what you find in that engine. Sounds like a rod on my crappy phone speaker, so obviously my opinion is valid. Haha.
Keep up the quality content. You’ve probably saved someone from hours of brutal work.
Aw hell yea, miata monday
Edit: big sad on the engine issues, hopefully it turns out to be something easy to diagnose and fix
My condolences to the bottom end dear sir. Definitely sounds like a bottom end bearing issue. Either way, considering the amount of power you were running and it lasted 15k miles consider it a good time. The next build will be even stronger. 🙌🏼
Thank you Greg for all the great videos. I have learned a lot from these over the years. Hope you will find the problem!
at least you still got compression. Sounds like a bearing. maybe thrust bearings like I seen below. I would just give the old gal a nice refresh. 15k hard miles, there isn't any shame, and its definitely part of the game. great video as always.
Love ya boi, good luck with the motor I’m really pulling for you (in my ND)
Such good content!
Ah man, such a bummer! Thanks for showing us your diagnostic process.
Really enjoyed this one. Chasing faults are the most interesting 👍
Feel for you man! Although it's shit, this video was absolutely sick. Loved the in depth problem solving. If anyone can find the issue, it will be you dude.
Congrats on breaking your record! You are a madman.. I wouldn't be surprised if Greg still calculates how much he can eat each day to put maximum funding to each build/#2$jR .. awesome video, thank you
It sounds like either thrust clearance or main bearing failure. This man out here finding the limits of the block.
Glad you made it home.
Though rather unfortunate, glad the car didn't have a catastrophic failure like the 1.6
My guess, like others have said, Worn thrust bearing. I'd imagine a very stiff pressure plate would increase thrust loads.
To pull out an old DSM meme;
"See Crank?
See Crank Walk
Walk Crank! Walk!"
This channel is underrated
Sucks that this happened but this makes for such good content.
K24 build? :p
Did you try the bottom end isolation test?! Remove the top end. unplug fuel pump relay, plug oil ports, crank bottom end and listen for noise! I just made that up, but might help idk. GL homie. That doesn't not sound like rod knock or valve train. I like the crank walk theories, I just never heard crank walk before.
WOW! After suffering withdraw it sure was great to see a new post, but my heart broke with yours when the engine went south. I am so very sorry to see this and my heart goes out to you!!! You are a lot smarted then this OG, so I can't give any bright ideas other than the crank. Do you want to pull the oil pan off and give it a look??? Best to you,
Amazing diagnostic and your explanation through it. Looking forward for more in depth video and when you'll find out what has happened :D
I was hoping someone would appreciate it and that it wasn't too boring!
@@TheCarPassionChannelit's always super interesting and honestly entertaining when you breakdown how you go about finding problems and fixing them!
Hoping it's somewhat fixable, but at least she had a good run! Man those pulls were awesome!
I should add that these more in-depth videos are exactly what inspired me to work on my own car and do (and learn) maintenance myself. If you go little by little you'll get there. Really happy to have been doing a lot the work myself ever since owning my Miata! Forever grateful for that, thanks Greg!
Nice video man, hope for the best outcome for your engine :(
Sorry to see see your troubles Greg! If worst come to worst hopefuly kpower will hook you up with some k24z3 goodies! On anther note boy she was popping in those runs.
The way we used to diagnose rod knock was while the engine is running pull a plug wire on each cylinder and see of the noise gets quieter. Obviously you would cycle this if you don't hear it change, and it'll be a little different since you have COP. But perhaps you can just kill each cylinder via the tuner.
This is perfect for rod knock. I was going to suggest it but an oil analysis will tell the story. Along with a check of endplay. You can do that with the trans off with a pry bar.
check for end play/crank walk, thats what took out my first built motor, crank was contacting the main caps and wearing it down
I'm surprised you didn't check endplay, although when my nb had a thrust bearing failure it still idled smooth, the crank moved under boost and I would lose crank sensor sync
looking forward to the next videao 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Dude that’s sick! And fast!
My guess is the thrust bearing because I heard a similar noise a few months ago. When we disassembled a engine we saw significant axial movement and high wear on the thrust bearing.
I had a similar noise from not tightening water pump pulley bolts enough. I think you would've torqued those down but is there a chance they came loose? Also worth checking any other pulley bolts like crank pulley.
It could hopefully be a main bearing issue. Also it was induced when selecting the 4th gear by the time the boost raised to 30 psi causing the engine to produce some serious amount of torque. Also the thrust bearing could be the culprit since the noise was introduced at high boost/torque conditions
Sorry to hear this!!
if the compression is right it might be thrust bearing 6puck clutches have big impact to the thrust pull and push the flywheel to check for play same thing you did with the rods. another thing if it comes from the nose you might have oil pump issue
Have you drained the oil and inspected it for metal? How about cutting open the oil filter and inspecting that? Or inspecting the screen for the vvt ocv?
I once had what I thought was a knock coming from my engine. I waited a couple of weeks before I could replace the rod bearings. Started the car and the noise was still there. Removed the serpentine belt and the noise went away. Turned out the bearings in the alternator failed. At least it had a new set of rod bearings 🤣
Thrust bearings, order new, most expensive, highest quality you can find, and send main crank for balance and polishing.
timing belt usually hard to get loose? May have to see whats going on behind crank pulley. love your vids :)
I'm going with partially spun main bearing or thrust bearing issue. Super sucks, I built mine after seeing you start the vvt build. About to start the 3rd race season on the motor.
Did you ever drain the oil to check for shimmer?
Yay dad back
Hmmm thrust washer worn maybe 🤔
Maybe try some Thicc Lucas oil :)
But seriously the crank movement seems the most likely.
I'm in the rebuild stage. Mine ate an exhaust valve. Sorry to hear about your motor man.
I have a FS Mazda 2.0L engine and I have heard that sound before from bent rods due to bad fuel/ too much IGN advance.
Anyway, I saw the whole video and the A/F ratios are a step too high for my comfort. I prefer to loose some power due to too rich ratios.
What is your oil pressure?
If a sound is coming from crank pulley area could it be a oil pump? Gears making noise. I asume pressure is ok so no shatered gears but easy to take it and check if you havent yet.. hoping its not a bottom end!
I would look at the thrust washers, if somehow they were to get out of their spot or start spinning I bet it would make a hell of a noise on the crank but your rod bearings would stay in place, you might be able to check play by moving the crank forwards and backwards but no guarantees on that. Next up I'd check out your oil pump. Since to say the sound is coming from near the nose of the crank. There's also main bearings like others have been saying
My NB2 is also making a knocking noise now, but it doesn't sound like your engine. Mine only happens above ~2k rpm, and it gets louder as the engine warms up. I'm gonna check valve lash right now to see what's up, but I'm really hoping its not a bearing in the bottom end :(
I hope Lil' Red recovers fast Greg! You got this.
timing tensioner?
@@mikescherrer4923 I’m literally looking at that right now lol. The timing belt is definitely looser than it should be. So I’m trying to loosen up the tensioner bolt to re-tension the belt but I just can’t get that bolt loose. I can’t get a wrench on it enough to loosen it. I also just checked my lash and only 4 of the 16 valves are in spec 🤦♂️😭
Could it be the front crank bearing ? Or the fluid damper that seen better days and Is throwing the crank out of balance?
Cut open the filter and maybe send out an oil sample to get tested. Sorry bro. Great video as always.
How much movement on the crank when you push it all the way to the rear extreme and then move it all the way forward?
I think,maybe an bearing is damaged,or maybe the thrust washers, or something with the harmonic fluid damper 🤔Wish good luck,and an fast located and that it cost not too much ✌️
Can you take the plugs back out and measure piston travel? Bent rod?
We are 124k, let’s send 50 cents each to this guy and make his engine on point. With his video he personally helped me saving a lot of money in labour, so I would be more than happy to contribute :)
Best of luck problem solving this one, hate this happened so soon. But tis the game of high horsepower.
Sorry to see this. With headphones, the engine didn’t sound very healthy way before that last pull. I hope you figure it out and it can be repaired relatively easily. How easy is it to drop de oil pan? Can you access the main bearings with the engine in the car?
Check for bent rods, if one is shorter the sound could be from the piston hitting the crank. But with drive back home I would expect it to self clearance.
Yup, this. But compression on that cylinder might be a bit different if that was the case. I bent a rod one time and it sounded just like this. It got louder and louder on the 2 mile drive home though. It was bending the rod more and more as it was put under load climbing hills and stuff. The crankshaft was eating through the piston and almost made it through to the wrist pin.
Best of luck Greg. I know it hurts.
I think it could be with the hamonic balancer itself or the sensor plate behind it. I had on a truck I owned the damn bolt kept coming loose and it sounded like that.
How is the thrust clearance on the crank when you pull the flywheel?
5:38 you got me lol
Muffler bearings ? Blinker fluid? Loose nut behind the wheel? I will be interested in what you find. Sorry for your misfortune. It is a monster motor and like you said it has made a ton of power its whole life. Maybe it just be done. Thanks for sharing Professor Peters.
Wondering if the crank could have warped/moved enough to maybe spin or damage a main bearing? Maybe a main could’ve been compromised by dropping a thrust bearing? Maybe it’s as “simple” as a chipped oil pump gear. Anything’s possible I guess
Some other folk have already suggested it, but maybe removing the oil pan and taking a gander there might shed some light on the problem?
Sorry to hear this. I know how you feel.... You will habe your baby back on tbe rd again soon brother.
My miata is also running loud for no reason. (Replaced the entire exhaust with a stock one, still the same loudness). I wish I could recoomend something but instead im waiting patiently for you to provide some insight because I've checked over everything (to the best of my abilities) and brought it to many mechanicts, none could find a reason or explain why the engine sounds loud
I'm thinking oil pump. Sorry to see this for you man. I know the sinking feeling when sounds start. How did the oil look?
Yes. Dropping the oil through a strainer only takes a few minutes. I would want to know if there were chips in the strainer, or glitter in the oil.
Rod Bearings, main Bearings or thrust Bearing. Either way I think you're up for a rebuild mate. I was in Mexico the other day too....but the one in Australia 🇦🇺
Lmaooo the Australian Mexico is another hot spot
2.0 Fe3 swap. Mazda's version of the 4G63. Basically a big block BP. Holds 400hp with stock internals.
Don't forget to check crankshaft end play
Bent rod? That would be pretty impressive if so, it sounds eerily like that to me, great video tho. The car looks like a handful
My turbo manifold started cracking again and I'm about ready to give up and keep the standalone but put stock headers back on lol
Where did you get the bracket for the Toyota coils?
Could it be a bent rod hitting on the wall of the cylinder? Or has on of the piston pins let go so there’s some movement at the top?
Just throwing my idea in the ring. Hope you find it nice and quick and get the car back on the road. It sounded immense when you were spooling it up through the gears.
Any KR or anything on the pulls or driving afterward?
What did the oil look like when it was fully drained and not on the dip stick? Still sorry to see, hope it’s something simple! We’ll be watching!
Sucks to see this happen! But damn that thing grips up with the boost by gear. Makes me want it, 32 psi isn’t manageable in 2nd and 3rd right now.
Never clicked so fast
Maybe bent rod? Piston hitting the crank counter weights
Ol Daddy Gorg blows his 1.8 up again. One day he will realize the error of his ways and come back to the path of the 1.6. Gobbless
Sorry about the car but holy shit your videos are entertaining keep up the great work man👍
Have you checked for play in the crank pulley? I've had this on a different car and it was very tiny, almost undetectable (probably wouldn't feel it when you turned the engine over) but it made a racket. Despite this the car ran fine and I only found the issue when I replaced my timing belt and found the pulley had welded itself on due to excessive friction. How do I know it had been loose then? It was ever so slightly crooked! Damn I've been lucky with my car for it to be running still!
do you burn a lot of oil???? I had the exact same sound from my 1.8 NB turned out to be the valve stem seals popping (made a really metallic tapping noise). it sounded like it was coming from the bottom end but all my bearings were mint. And holy *** **** **** **** that thing rips😮😮😮😮 hope that it's nothing serious🤙
What's were the results of draining the oil and seeing if there was metal?