So typically the install involves notching the sub-frame to allow AC and keep similar charge pipe arrangement. Greg's improvisation is a great solution - but the real MVP's are in the comments section. Thank you guys for suggesting the Rivnut idea, we love those things and have them sitting on the shelf. They will be included from now on.
That custom intercooler branding is legendary lol.. it wouldn't matter if it was a 500hp wheelchair. This build is bad ass, dialed, and represents a lifetime of hard work.
hey, when you've got rusty nuts like those bumper rod bolts, hit the end of the exposed thread with a wire brush and clean all the gunk off, then use a penetrating oil if you can break it free, squirt with penetrating oil and work the nut/bolt back and forth 1/4 turn to allow the oil to really get in there the wire brush is the secret advanced technique that saves sooo many snapped bolts
So crazy that I used to watch your videos with my 100% stock NA Miata- and now I've got over 20k into it (Yes, it's boosted). I still come back every once in a while just because I love ya- but I'm honored to take this journey with you. I appreciate you! I lived right there off of El-Cajon Blvd when I was stationed there and seeing you drive under that wide bridge makes me wish I was still back there! I wish I were into Miata's back then (SRT-4's) and maybe I'd of seen you around then. Thanks so much Greg. Hopefully one day, I'll take a trip down there and I'll see you out on the roadways.
so I stumbled on your channel because I am picking up a near mint 95 1.8 miata. You are giving me way too many ideas lol. I love your content. Keep at it bud!
I honestly recommend you go way back through his videos over the years, one of the great parts about greg is that he also shows mistakes and how to avoid them, so as cool as learning some cool upgrades is, he gives great insight on how to avoid failures from his experience. Welcome to the channel man.
Gotta love Bryan at Fab9, exactly the type of weld I would have put.....LOL. Greg if you are looking to get a welder I can highly recommend the Prime weld TiG 225. This is the best tig you can buy for under $1000! I have one and love it.
Suggest you use micalor hose clamps for the boost pipes, I guarantee you will blow a hose off with the clips you are using with that boost pressure, especially as you've just cut off one of the beaded ends.
I've ran 30psi plus before with some sections of my piping just using regular clamps and no beads and was all good. One trick I've learned is if you have a course wire wheel or something just run it around the clamping surface really notice a difference in the silicon grip.
I love love love watching your videos when they come out. It has always been my goal to build a 500hp + Miata. And with boost by gear it’s a no brainer!!!!
It seems no matter what you do there are going to be people that say negative stuff. Fact is You do your homework and do not do stuff off the cuff. Add to that you are No Dummy. Good Luck at the Dyno! Still say though you could lower your temps in the engine bay by using JetHot Coating. I've been using it since before you were born, I wish you would try it or ask for sponsorship as the Miata Community as yet to embrace their product. I'd also like to see CenterForce clutches used as they are easy on the leg, but still hook up like mad. Best Always,
I think the welded patern under the intercooler is just the shape of the water pump gasket you're suposed to use... Many water pumps gaskets have similar shape/patern (not miata ones though) OG manufacturer might have put that there to help when changing the water pump :p
Next step is to move to a stand alone that can read wheel speed sensors and do pid loop tuning of boost and timing to allow for maximum usable traction no matter gear, tire, or road condition.
BBG still needs to be relatively close, boost level can't be changed near quick enough to act as a traction control. That needs to be done with fuel and spark
@@TheCarPassionChannel Yup, with the motec and fueltec they pull timing, then boost, then throttle as a last resort. I have a haltech, which unfortunately can't do this yet, however I have 4wd so less traction issues.
I have a question and a suggestion... When choosing turbo parts, are the choices based on the cfm of air being to be moved or is it just a educated guess on what will work and how big things need to be? My suggestion is to find a way to put a bead on the end of that hard pipe on the inlet side of the intercooler. With the boost you're making, that could easily blow off. Love the content bro💪
@@flyhacking5830 i agree, his compressor map video is a great video and it's the only one I've seen so far that easily explains what it is and how to read it. I've always wondered tho, do you select a turbo based on the peak cfm of air an engine can move? Do you then select an intercooler based on the peak cfm the turbo engine can move or the peak cfm that the turbo can move? Or do you just size the turbo and intercooler based on "hey this is big enough, so it should work"?
Looking forward to learn how you control the boost pressure over such a wide range. Ferrari does this to make their cars more drivable. It would be awesome if we could do it in the aftermarket.
It'd be good if you could post any findings on the effect on spool up of changing intercooler sizes. Similar to the differences of changing turbos last time around.
Don’t know how it is down in so cal but up in the bay. It’s war right now against the tuners! Giving state revs out like nothing! it’s 1200$ now not 750$. couple people this weekend at a meet got tickets for no air bag in the steering wheel “quick release”. 2300$ Ticket. it’s 2100$ with proof of correction! Good lucky my friends! I would paint that intercooler black..
that hard pipe you cut will pop off or leak boost as it has no bead for it to lock onto just saying also why do you not rubber mount your intercooler? not worried about vibration?
The artwork addition was so so awesome! Edit-1: Okay... I love you man... but that mounting without threading (I heard ya) is janky, oh... I agree with @paul kimble on this one, but will change it to a, "may regret it", depending on how much you torqued that clamp down.... Edit-2: Also... you're going to get that extra 3 HersPers with just not having the bumper on... wager... Edit-3: Will be very interested in the outcome of the boost controller / Spring changes... Edit-4: Don't worry about the trolls man... There's a lot of folks out there that speak as they know... Just prove them wrong, man... :-) You're gonna do it, man!!!
I don't have a Miata but hot-rodding is universal right? Been watching your stuff and applying it on my V8 ranger. Used the 3 port by bypassing lower pressure to the top of the 50mm gate. I've been able to get 4.5psi gate pressure up to 15.7 psi @100% duty. It's awesome how you can tune the tire haze all the way down the Trac. Are you going to setup boost by time as well?
Hi Greg, it will be very interesting to see your boost by gear setup (tune) in action. Are you stil running open loop boost control or have you dialed in closed loop?
I always run open loop on the dyno because it's easy to fine tune it and get it repeatable, just doing the same exact pull over and over. For boost by gear it will need to be in closed loop.
Sorry to be that guy, but... Did you just cut way the bead rolls on your hard pipes? With your boost levels, it's very likely you'll blow a coupler off smooth pipe. Just be prepared.
@@TheCarPassionChannel Greg, if you can, bring some appropriate sized worm clamps with you to your session (preferably good stainless ones, if you can get them in time) They may be narrow enough to give you the opportunity to double clamp if you have to. Cheap insurance to possible save a Dyno Session.
Yeah the fuel system was all taken care of in the last video. The rest should be fine for 500+, clutch may be the next weakest link but I think it will be fine. It's rated for around 510lb-ft
I'm not going to run a turbo, so WHY AM I WATCHING THIS?????? uhhh... does the Mustang "collision part" of the front bumper cause you to veer off into the spectators lining the street?? Asking for a friend.
Sure. For safety you can first rev it to 3500rpm before flooring it because torque destroys not hp. I had 276hp on the wheels on a stock 1.8 vvt turbo.
Yes. And you don't need to wait until high RPM to floor it... That's what proper boost control is for. Not that you need to worry about anything at 200bhp
Someone get this man a Milwaukee Fuel power ratchet or at the very least, a fine tooth hand ratchet. Watching you remove the bumper hardware with a sloppy Craftsman hand ratchet was painful knowing you could have saved so much time and effort with a power tool.
I don't know if it was the custom artwork or not but having a really hard time (giggity) not making jokes about all the nuts and rod talk in this video...
I think you're a much smarter/saavy guy than I, but on my 4port I was only able to readily get 20psi out of my EWG with 7.8psi spring at 75% duty cycle. going as high as 85% no change, and running it fully closed previously (It was hitting boost cut at 19psi). I suspect I was close to maxing the spring out. I'm curios to see how the 4port works for you with the smaller spring. Looking forward to seeing more and possibly how your hose routing works with the 4port. Based on readings online I was seeing reports of 2.5x being about the max you could run, short of putting CO2 on the dome to control boost pressures with a lighter spring.
As good as you do, and as smart as you are, why do you insist on calling the 6mm bolts and nuts 10mm? Do you also call 1/4-20 bolts and nuts 7/16" simply because it takes that size wrench? Sorry. Rant is over. Nice to have new content from you, and as always, great editing and filming. At 57, I still learn from you.
So typically the install involves notching the sub-frame to allow AC and keep similar charge pipe arrangement. Greg's improvisation is a great solution - but the real MVP's are in the comments section. Thank you guys for suggesting the Rivnut idea, we love those things and have them sitting on the shelf. They will be included from now on.
Rivnuts are like new age cable ties.
Not gunna lie ive secured a intercooler with cable ties a few times.
Just make sure you include one of those cheap funky wrench tools like other manufacturers for the people that still somehow don't own rivnut tools.
As I was watching this. I said to myself. Where the hell are the rivnuts/nutserts
@@tonywhite7753 no way....................LOL
@@tonywhite7753 Not really. They have been used on helicopters since the 60s.
I know which hose is going to blow off on the dyno. 🤣
That custom intercooler branding is legendary lol.. it wouldn't matter if it was a 500hp wheelchair. This build is bad ass, dialed, and represents a lifetime of hard work.
right off the bat "the quest for 3hp" cracked me up
Foreshadowing....Greg regrets not bead rolling that charge pipe end, just kidding, as usual you're killing it.
Thought the same xD
So did I...wonder if the pipe will separate...?
😳😳😳😳😳
You bet...just grab a beer and watch.
@@valdeera have a beer rat now... but will have to wait for the next "Miata Monday"
hey,
when you've got rusty nuts like those bumper rod bolts, hit the end of the exposed thread with a wire brush and clean all the gunk off, then use a penetrating oil
if you can break it free, squirt with penetrating oil and work the nut/bolt back and forth 1/4 turn to allow the oil to really get in there
the wire brush is the secret advanced technique that saves sooo many snapped bolts
this is such a common thing to do when working on shitboxes up here in Canada lol
@@snoofayy6150 salted road mechanics know
Would riv nuts resolve the problem to bolt the intercooler to the tow hook "holes"?
Yep that's another option
@@TheCarPassionChannel
Thought about that too.
Why didn't you do that 😂?
Came here to comment this. Beat me too it. In my eyes the best option
I was going to say the same thing
So crazy that I used to watch your videos with my 100% stock NA Miata- and now I've got over 20k into it (Yes, it's boosted). I still come back every once in a while just because I love ya- but I'm honored to take this journey with you. I appreciate you! I lived right there off of El-Cajon Blvd when I was stationed there and seeing you drive under that wide bridge makes me wish I was still back there! I wish I were into Miata's back then (SRT-4's) and maybe I'd of seen you around then. Thanks so much Greg. Hopefully one day, I'll take a trip down there and I'll see you out on the roadways.
YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES
YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES YES
so I stumbled on your channel because I am picking up a near mint 95 1.8 miata. You are giving me way too many ideas lol. I love your content. Keep at it bud!
I honestly recommend you go way back through his videos over the years, one of the great parts about greg is that he also shows mistakes and how to avoid them, so as cool as learning some cool upgrades is, he gives great insight on how to avoid failures from his experience. Welcome to the channel man.
Gotta love Bryan at Fab9, exactly the type of weld I would have put.....LOL. Greg if you are looking to get a welder I can highly recommend the Prime weld TiG 225. This is the best tig you can buy for under $1000! I have one and love it.
Thank you! I'm definitely looking for a TiG that's capable of what I need but not complete overkill
Shoutout to Darby's car. Seriously one of the best looking Time Attack Miata's out there right now
Suggest you use micalor hose clamps for the boost pipes, I guarantee you will blow a hose off with the clips you are using with that boost pressure, especially as you've just cut off one of the beaded ends.
I've ran 30psi plus before with some sections of my piping just using regular clamps and no beads and was all good. One trick I've learned is if you have a course wire wheel or something just run it around the clamping surface really notice a difference in the silicon grip.
I love love love watching your videos when they come out. It has always been my goal to build a 500hp + Miata. And with boost by gear it’s a no brainer!!!!
Just purchased my intercooler yesterday with a DIY kit after weeks of procrastination.. great timing :P
Last minute assignments for college?... nah, CarPassion just posted!
Have you got a place to put another MAP sensor pre intercooler? Would be cool to see pressure drops compared to the original
I do have a 2nd MAP sensor 😃 I will be checking out that data between the two intercoolers
Name for the intercooler... Chode Charlie.😂
Were you able to get a bead on the passenger side hard pipe to coupler connection? I'd hate to see that pop off with all that boooost!
I have been refreshing your page and rewatching videos for the last two weeks!
Loving the new content!!
Let’s go!!!!!
It seems no matter what you do there are going to be people that say negative stuff. Fact is You do your homework and do not do stuff off the cuff. Add to that you are No Dummy. Good Luck at the Dyno! Still say though you could lower your temps in the engine bay by using JetHot Coating. I've been using it since before you were born, I wish you would try it or ask for sponsorship as the Miata Community as yet to embrace their product. I'd also like to see CenterForce clutches used as they are easy on the leg, but still hook up like mad. Best Always,
Did you bead roll the cut alu piping on the tb-side?..
I think the welded patern under the intercooler is just the shape of the water pump gasket you're suposed to use...
Many water pumps gaskets have similar shape/patern (not miata ones though)
OG manufacturer might have put that there to help when changing the water pump :p
Next step is to move to a stand alone that can read wheel speed sensors and do pid loop tuning of boost and timing to allow for maximum usable traction no matter gear, tire, or road condition.
BBG still needs to be relatively close, boost level can't be changed near quick enough to act as a traction control. That needs to be done with fuel and spark
@@TheCarPassionChannel Yup, with the motec and fueltec they pull timing, then boost, then throttle as a last resort. I have a haltech, which unfortunately can't do this yet, however I have 4wd so less traction issues.
I have a question and a suggestion... When choosing turbo parts, are the choices based on the cfm of air being to be moved or is it just a educated guess on what will work and how big things need to be?
My suggestion is to find a way to put a bead on the end of that hard pipe on the inlet side of the intercooler. With the boost you're making, that could easily blow off. Love the content bro💪
This would be a great video. His compressor map video is great but doesn't give you data for choosing a turbo
@@flyhacking5830 i agree, his compressor map video is a great video and it's the only one I've seen so far that easily explains what it is and how to read it. I've always wondered tho, do you select a turbo based on the peak cfm of air an engine can move? Do you then select an intercooler based on the peak cfm the turbo engine can move or the peak cfm that the turbo can move? Or do you just size the turbo and intercooler based on "hey this is big enough, so it should work"?
Your wastegate setup is exactly like my dart. Or any fiat 1.4t the dart has a 7 psi spring in the actuator but can make up to 21 psi.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 Brian killed it. Fab9tuning boys are great !
So happy to see the notification. Great video as always, Kraig!
Looking forward to learn how you control the boost pressure over such a wide range. Ferrari does this to make their cars more drivable. It would be awesome if we could do it in the aftermarket.
It'd be good if you could post any findings on the effect on spool up of changing intercooler sizes. Similar to the differences of changing turbos last time around.
Seriously....cant wait.
You're propably gonna see a few more hp just with the new intercooler because of the colder denser air in the intake.
You don't have problems with the couplers blowing off, the pipes don't have ribs on the end of the pipes?
Excellent as always, keep up the good work !
Great video Greg! Have a great day! :)
Greg you better put a bead on that charge pipe or it’s gonna blow off the coupler on the dyno
Don’t know how it is down in so cal but up in the bay. It’s war right now against the tuners! Giving state revs out like nothing! it’s 1200$ now not 750$. couple people this weekend at a meet got tickets for no air bag in the steering wheel “quick release”. 2300$ Ticket. it’s 2100$ with proof of correction! Good lucky my friends! I would paint that intercooler black..
Was that a Lego 32557 pic there at 1:50?
Dude! Killin it as always! Love the grind man, whatever it takes to make it happen.
"Cut the zip-ties to remove the... cardboard". XD
Keep up the good work 👍💯
Bryan is hilarious! Great artist! 😂😂😂
Can you put a nutsert in that empty hole and mount it that way?
Yes, in the same fashion as welding the nut in
ahhh hey greg, someone's prolly already said this, but you're gonna want to roll a new bead around the fresh cut ends of your IC piping.
You have cut the bewell out of one of the intercooler hard pipes, be careful it does non pop off under boost...
SWEET! And I'm just hopeful to getting my stock Miata running again, but now that I own two motors......
Yesss new vid🤩
Nicely explained (as usual) 👌🏼
Looking forward to seeing results at the dyno 🐌➡️☃️➡️💥📈
that hard pipe you cut will pop off or leak boost as it has no bead for it to lock onto just saying also why do you not rubber mount your intercooler?
not worried about vibration?
You could totally rivnut that non threaded hole in the chassis so you wouldn't need to sandwich it like that
I died from that comment about the bumper upgrade
Sick video man!
Miata dad rules 🤟🤟🤟
if only i knew about riv-nuts 3 years ago when I installed mine. welding upside down is never fun.
Get some Jeep LED headlights in there!
why not put a threaded rivet in the empty hole?
cain't wait for dyno vid.
Damn I wish you where my neighbor to help me with my Miata
Have you looked at doing a dual-3 port boost solenoid setup to run whatever boost you want without the potential erraticness of a 4 port?
Yes but looking through the menus and settings it doesn't look like MS3 supports it. I bought a 2nd 3-port before figuring that out
The artwork addition was so so awesome! Edit-1: Okay... I love you man... but that mounting without threading (I heard ya) is janky, oh... I agree with @paul kimble on this one, but will change it to a, "may regret it", depending on how much you torqued that clamp down.... Edit-2: Also... you're going to get that extra 3 HersPers with just not having the bumper on... wager... Edit-3: Will be very interested in the outcome of the boost controller / Spring changes... Edit-4: Don't worry about the trolls man... There's a lot of folks out there that speak as they know... Just prove them wrong, man... :-) You're gonna do it, man!!!
Yes to all of this
I don't have a Miata but hot-rodding is universal right? Been watching your stuff and applying it on my V8 ranger. Used the 3 port by bypassing lower pressure to the top of the 50mm gate. I've been able to get 4.5psi gate pressure up to 15.7 psi @100% duty. It's awesome how you can tune the tire haze all the way down the Trac. Are you going to setup boost by time as well?
the best intercooler ever, a real mans intercooler if i due say myself :D ;)
Hi Greg, it will be very interesting to see your boost by gear setup (tune) in action.
Are you stil running open loop boost control or have you dialed in closed loop?
I always run open loop on the dyno because it's easy to fine tune it and get it repeatable, just doing the same exact pull over and over. For boost by gear it will need to be in closed loop.
155F ~ 69C
Yessir!! 🔥🔥
Any advice on how to fix the bumper support rod stud that I broke off? or just have a slightly floppy bumper?
I've had a broken one for a while, but I'm sure you could get some from Treasure Coast Miata. If they don't have them on the site give them a call!
Hey Greg, out of interest have you upgraded front or rear hubs? I've heard of epic failures on high HP cars..
I wonder what nitrous on the intercooler would do for science...
Sorry to be that guy, but...
Did you just cut way the bead rolls on your hard pipes?
With your boost levels, it's very likely you'll blow a coupler off smooth pipe.
Just be prepared.
Just let me learn my lesson the hard way 😂
@@TheCarPassionChannel Greg, if you can, bring some appropriate sized worm clamps with you to your session (preferably good stainless ones, if you can get them in time)
They may be narrow enough to give you the opportunity to double clamp if you have to. Cheap insurance to possible save a Dyno Session.
CPC new video- full stop. On it asap
Aren’t you redoing fuel too? If your internals are up to it what is stopping you from 600? Turbo hot side size? Clutch?
Yeah the fuel system was all taken care of in the last video. The rest should be fine for 500+, clutch may be the next weakest link but I think it will be fine. It's rated for around 510lb-ft
Is he not running a blow off valve? And is it just for the sound?
My turbo has a built in recirculation valve (Borg Warner EFR6758)
How big are ur eksos pipes? 3” 2.5? 2.-1/4?
Mustang bumpers are built to be used, so they're the strongest in the industry :p
Hell yeah
I’m seeing 511hp at the dyno
Let’s go
Is it being made into a drag car now instead of for canyon stuff?
I think not, just a 500whp goal, just for his Dyno record
Nah I'd just install a huge turbo if it was a drag car
@@TheCarPassionChannel Hot damn haha, stay safe my guy, crazy build
Miata Monday bros
I'm not going to run a turbo, so WHY AM I WATCHING THIS??????
uhhh... does the Mustang "collision part" of the front bumper cause you to veer off into the spectators lining the street?? Asking for a friend.
I guess I know where my income tax money is going to..lol
the dig at mustang owners... LMFAO.
1:50 Puritaner...
You mean 497 he miata gets huge intercooler.... I'm poking the bear! 😊
1:45 LMAO!!!!!
i stay hating on the fap9 intercoolers
twice the price for 2 mounting tabs.
Link me to 1 site where you can get a Vibrant 12810 for $145 (half the price of Fab9). I'll wait 👍
do you think a stock 190k 1.6 can take 200 crank HP easily?
Sure. For safety you can first rev it to 3500rpm before flooring it because torque destroys not hp. I had 276hp on the wheels on a stock 1.8 vvt turbo.
Yes. And you don't need to wait until high RPM to floor it... That's what proper boost control is for. Not that you need to worry about anything at 200bhp
Mo powa baby?
I can't help but picture James in the front row of kindergartners when I hear this
NOICEEEE
I got my hair cut like you papa.
Greg, why do your videos fly by so quickly 😭
1:45 😂
“Firzt gear”
1:45 :D :D :D :D :D xD xD
niiiiiiice
Someone get this man a Milwaukee Fuel power ratchet or at the very least, a fine tooth hand ratchet. Watching you remove the bumper hardware with a sloppy Craftsman hand ratchet was painful knowing you could have saved so much time and effort with a power tool.
Woo-hoo
I don't know if it was the custom artwork or not but having a really hard time (giggity) not making jokes about all the nuts and rod talk in this video...
I think you're a much smarter/saavy guy than I, but on my 4port I was only able to readily get 20psi out of my EWG with 7.8psi spring at 75% duty cycle. going as high as 85% no change, and running it fully closed previously (It was hitting boost cut at 19psi). I suspect I was close to maxing the spring out. I'm curios to see how the 4port works for you with the smaller spring. Looking forward to seeing more and possibly how your hose routing works with the 4port. Based on readings online I was seeing reports of 2.5x being about the max you could run, short of putting CO2 on the dome to control boost pressures with a lighter spring.
As good as you do, and as smart as you are, why do you insist on calling the 6mm bolts and nuts 10mm? Do you also call 1/4-20 bolts and nuts 7/16" simply because it takes that size wrench? Sorry. Rant is over. Nice to have new content from you, and as always, great editing and filming. At 57, I still learn from you.
Because the size of the bolt is really irrelevant, all people need to know is what tool they need to use to remove it 🤓
@@TheCarPassionChannel until they go to buy a 10mm bolt...lol
lol my man got a 400+hp miata with cardboard mods. shit just goes to show you how much you can do with little.