Back in the day we bailed from the 17th pitch of Mescalito after waiting out a storm for 4 days. We had maybe two days of clearing with a 2 week system coming after. When we got down, I was pretty bent for not topping out until a great friend on our Yosar crew pointed out that we now know how to bail off anything, unsupported. That man was Cade Lloyd and he changed the whole picture for me, not for the first time. "If you can't rescue yourself, you have no business being up there." I would say, a legendary quote from a legend I am proud to have known and shared a rope with. Check your head, eh? Be better at getting back down from anywhere, then you can climb scary things with confidence and responsibly. Peace and happy climbing, Cheers.
Enjoyed this. Been looking for more "how to escape bad situations" videos for climbing and rigging. Would also love to see more on "how to get down when you drop xyz gear by accident" e.g. when working with a shortage of some critical gear like locking carabiners.
Glad you enjoyed it! I'll give that video a thought for sure, here's one you might like if you've not already seen it :) ruclips.net/video/5l4f_-cvPng/видео.html
Really positive vibes considering you got soaked, that's what it's all about, being out there and having fun no matter what!! Also you made me curious about the route, looks ace! I've only climbed a bit in the quarries, gonna have to come back eventually! :)
Lol, around the 3 min mark there's a guy being lowered off a route in the top left. I thought he did a ground fall because of the sped up footage 🤣 I was just like.....😱
I've heard mixed opinions about leaving/using maillons for this. But nobody has ever explained why. Figured it was a bad etiquette thing. Maybe something to do with them being difficult to remove if theyre on the hanger for a while? What are your thoughts on this? Have you encountered such grumbling? Btw, I use them. I have a couple on my harness at all times which I plan to replace with slightly worn out biners. But so far I've donated my worn out biners for mates to rack gear.
Rhys Morgan they can be a pain left mid route if they corrode shut, can make the bolt hard to clip. I don’t see any drama leaving one on a belay like this. If I do bail mid pitch I’d normally leave an old crab instead out of choice.
Looks very like dinorwig quarry. Where was this? Been exploring there quite a bit recently. May go search for the climb. Theres so much climbing there!
At 5:12 there's something written on a bit of slate, what does it say? Also do you have any tips for leader bailing off a trad route when already past half way in rope. Thank. (Interested in route just to left with the wobbly ladder pitch - have you done that too?)
In this case, with the 60m rope we were on I'd have lowered the second to the floor in a oner and then done two abs to get myself down. If the floor was too far, we'd rap down to the last belay. The second would have to secure themselves to the bolts, lots of options with that, but using a sling to join the two bolts and clip to that to make themselves safe, then me as the leader abseiling down to join them, clipping in to the same sling set up.
So you kinda need a maillon rapide per pitch really if you have to bail the proper way on petzl "sharp" bolts. But surely no one carries 20 maillons for a 20 pitch climb ? Or do they???
Most of the time bolted belays either have smooth bolts, rings, or chains that you can thread the rope through. So you leave nothing. If the climb only has these sharp bolts at every belay station... Then yes. You would leave something at each. a carabiner or a maillon. Do not leave maillons in the middle of a route. But at anchors it's absolutely fine.
Hi, bit if a newbie so excuse me if it's a silly question. What are the benefits of lowering your partner rather than you both abseiling off? Should this ideally always be done this way when escaping a route? Thanks in advance and love the videos.
Great video once again Jez! What are your thoughts on the 'texas rope trick' (link below!) where you use a sling and three lengths of the rope to abseil down and then retreieve all your gear. Assuming it would leave you with enough rope to do what you need, would you ever use this method, or would you rather just leave a crab? ruclips.net/video/AkZKaSX6N1M/видео.html&ab_channel=HowNOT2
I will never go climbing with a guy who is such a shitty relay for me. No joke! What does he think he's explaining to us, with his key ring carabiners and straps made from shoe laces?
Oh you deleted your other reply..? I usually do just delete stupid posts but... "key ring carabiners and straps made from shoe laces". Funnily enough any kit you see in this video is fully rated climbing kit. Mostly DMM but the rated prusik loop is Simond. No joke...
A rare bolted multi pitch, what a hidden gem
It's an awesome spot, in the dry!
Beautiful quarry! Looks like n amazing place to climb - when it’s dry! 😀. Very helpful video, thank for sharing posting!
Back in the day we bailed from the 17th pitch of Mescalito after waiting out a storm for 4 days. We had maybe two days of clearing with a 2 week system coming after. When we got down, I was pretty bent for not topping out until a great friend on our Yosar crew pointed out that we now know how to bail off anything, unsupported.
That man was Cade Lloyd and he changed the whole picture for me, not for the first time. "If you can't rescue yourself, you have no business being up there." I would say, a legendary quote from a legend I am proud to have known and shared a rope with. Check your head, eh? Be better at getting back down from anywhere, then you can climb scary things with confidence and responsibly. Peace and happy climbing, Cheers.
Love it!
Enjoyed this. Been looking for more "how to escape bad situations" videos for climbing and rigging. Would also love to see more on "how to get down when you drop xyz gear by accident" e.g. when working with a shortage of some critical gear like locking carabiners.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'll give that video a thought for sure, here's one you might like if you've not already seen it :) ruclips.net/video/5l4f_-cvPng/видео.html
Really positive vibes considering you got soaked, that's what it's all about, being out there and having fun no matter what!! Also you made me curious about the route, looks ace! I've only climbed a bit in the quarries, gonna have to come back eventually! :)
Such a cool route in an ace part of the quarries :)
Another great video! Love seeing some footage from the field too!!
What a beautiful wall that is, looks like the English el cap 🤩🤩🤩
*Welsh !
Beautiful for sure, but definitely Welsh ;)
Loving the new intro music, proper good vibes. Keep em up mate.
Cheers! Will do :)
I always carry a few off brand lockers for this exact reason. Not too butt hurt over an 8 dollar beener but leaving a draw would piss me off!
Lol, around the 3 min mark there's a guy being lowered off a route in the top left. I thought he did a ground fall because of the sped up footage 🤣 I was just like.....😱
😂
Thanks great video
Is the maillon also threaded for redundancy in the anchor or is there another reason why not to just abseil off the one smooth bolt?
I've heard mixed opinions about leaving/using maillons for this.
But nobody has ever explained why.
Figured it was a bad etiquette thing.
Maybe something to do with them being difficult to remove if theyre on the hanger for a while?
What are your thoughts on this?
Have you encountered such grumbling?
Btw, I use them. I have a couple on my harness at all times which I plan to replace with slightly worn out biners. But so far I've donated my worn out biners for mates to rack gear.
Rhys Morgan they can be a pain left mid route if they corrode shut, can make the bolt hard to clip. I don’t see any drama leaving one on a belay like this.
If I do bail mid pitch I’d normally leave an old crab instead out of choice.
Looks very like dinorwig quarry. Where was this? Been exploring there quite a bit recently. May go search for the climb. Theres so much climbing there!
Yeah it is, in Twll Mawr, ace bit of the quarries :)
At 5:12 there's something written on a bit of slate, what does it say? Also do you have any tips for leader bailing off a trad route when already past half way in rope. Thank. (Interested in route just to left with the wobbly ladder pitch - have you done that too?)
"Super Massive Black Hole"
I haven't done that other on 6 something I think!
How would things change if you'd both been at the top of say the 2nd pitch? How would the first abseiler secure at the top of the first pitch?
In this case, with the 60m rope we were on I'd have lowered the second to the floor in a oner and then done two abs to get myself down.
If the floor was too far, we'd rap down to the last belay. The second would have to secure themselves to the bolts, lots of options with that, but using a sling to join the two bolts and clip to that to make themselves safe, then me as the leader abseiling down to join them, clipping in to the same sling set up.
So you kinda need a maillon rapide per pitch really if you have to bail the proper way on petzl "sharp" bolts.
But surely no one carries 20 maillons for a 20 pitch climb ? Or do they???
Most of the time bolted belays either have smooth bolts, rings, or chains that you can thread the rope through. So you leave nothing.
If the climb only has these sharp bolts at every belay station... Then yes. You would leave something at each. a carabiner or a maillon.
Do not leave maillons in the middle of a route. But at anchors it's absolutely fine.
Cracker Jez. Great to see real time problem solving.
Cheers, glad you liked it :)
Hi, bit if a newbie so excuse me if it's a silly question. What are the benefits of lowering your partner rather than you both abseiling off? Should this ideally always be done this way when escaping a route?
Thanks in advance and love the videos.
If they are halfway up and you decide to bail ,it’s quicker to just lower them ,also if you have a novice
Not a silly question at all!
As Nathan says, it was purely to be a bit quicker :)
Do you have some videos where you actually go through the whole thing?
Hah wish rain was my excuse.
Great video once again Jez! What are your thoughts on the 'texas rope trick' (link below!) where you use a sling and three lengths of the rope to abseil down and then retreieve all your gear. Assuming it would leave you with enough rope to do what you need, would you ever use this method, or would you rather just leave a crab?
ruclips.net/video/AkZKaSX6N1M/видео.html&ab_channel=HowNOT2
I will never go climbing with a guy who is such a shitty relay for me. No joke! What does he think he's explaining to us, with his key ring carabiners and straps made from shoe laces?
Oh you deleted your other reply..? I usually do just delete stupid posts but...
"key ring carabiners and straps made from shoe laces". Funnily enough any kit you see in this video is fully rated climbing kit. Mostly DMM but the rated prusik loop is Simond. No joke...