R32 GTR mechanical restoration
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- Customer R32 GTR inspection and diagnosis
#skylinegtr #r32 #r32gtr
Listen to "The Autohaus Podcast"
Audio podcast available on most major apps!
CM Autohaus is a dealer/distributor for Amsoil and Verus Engineering! Message us for questions and pricing!
Support the AE86 culture on patreon!
/ cmautohaus
Merch!
cmautohaus.com/
Follow us!
IG @Autohaus_Z
FB @AutohausZ
DISCLAIMER:
The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between the CM Autohaus and you. Every situation may be different, and CM Autohaus does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. CM Autohaus and any sponsors of this video will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk.
![Oasis - Oasis Live '25 [Official Trailer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gol_JnuEtKM/mqdefault.jpg)
I don't own a GTR, but this was fascinating information.
Thanks for the watch and support! Comments also help with the algorithm!
Really enjoyed the bit about the dry, wet, and leak down test since I just went through the same diagnostic process on my SR rebuild and it helped me understand the benefits of a leak down better. Definitely regret not doing it now lol
Leak down is the best. Although tough if you dont have a good supply of compressed air - our shop compressor used to be too small and you cant hear the leaks if the compress has to run all the time.
You’ve been doing an amazing job Ezekiel. I would want you to replace every component on the car if we had the time. You the real MVP
Thank you as always for the constant kind words and understandings (hiccups happen with older cars!)
Just yesterday completed a 60k on a 33 GTR and performed nearly the exact same sequence of parts (Koyorad, new fan/clutch, timing belt, tensioners, etc.) By way of comparison, its not a bad job at all. Tough news about the CAS on that particular car, though. 😦
I think most poignant was your description of the previous affordability of the cars caused many owners to cut corners. As these cars become more expensive and subsequently legal to import (or export - I live in Japan) many American buyers will soon discover the realities of working on what was previously a relatively inexpensive used car often bought by younger generation. As the cars values declined over time, it opened an opportunity for those younger and inexperienced owners to modify with little regard for future value or reliable parts replacement. Now, 25 years later, the bill has come due. Literally. 😄
Thanks for the watch and well written comment Laurence. I see this phenomenon with USDM cars as well: the IS300 has become very popular with the youth locally, but all of them have had maintenance severely deferred in the past and now owners are paying BIG time to undo 10 years of deferred maintenance and shady tree/inexperienced mechanics.
The Toyota MRS and Nissan S-Chassis are also great examples of this. S-Chassis cars are darn near a status symbol for kiddos these days.
Good info, will bring my cars here
Hello Ezekiel. Greetings from North Idaho Brother! Thank you for the great walkthrough on that GTR. Ironically, or not, my wife's car is a 1992 GTR in 732 with what we believe to be between 80,000 - 90,000 miles on it. The one in your video is in far better shape than ours though.
I suspected that we had an issue with the MAF's since every so often the engine would bounce at 2,600 rpm's like a lumpy alcohol burning dragster. Good to know I was right about that. Found some OEM MAF's that I ordered off Yahoo! Auctions. But that's on one of many, many, many, many more problems we have to deal with still.
Two years ago I ordered a Greddy oil cooler and filter relocation kit from Nengn and finally opened it up two weeks ago only to find the 130mm hose is missing. Not too big of deal since I get one made locally here for under $40. But I have no clue how to install this thing...the instructions don't say anything about the PCV valve boost solenoid that is installed exactly where the element flange is to go.
I sure hope one of your customers will bring you another BNR32 to install that Greddy kit on it. Cause I sure could use a how to video on this! I was surprised to see there aren't any videos for installing this kit the R32 GTR anywhere on line. Not that I can do anything till I get the missing hose made, but it would be great to know what I have to do before I get stuck and then wind up with a car I can't fix!
God bess you Bro!
Amazing informative video, you explain things so clearly! Keep up the good work!!!
Appreciate the support Mom!
@@CMAutohaus I actually have a question regarding the fan clutch! Where did you find a new OEM clutch, from what I can tell Nissan discontinued the R32 version and the R33 and R34 version are now available through the heritage program. Is the clutch, like the fan, interchangeable and should I just buy an R34 clutch to go with it? Thanks so much in advance!!
The PIM variation is normal. I just analyzed this data on my car and can confirm that it’s appropriate.
Love your videos, attitude and professionalism
Thank you for the kind words and support sincerely appreciate it
This was a great watch! I could listen to you talk about vehicle inspections and diags all day long 😊.
Thanks Alex! I personally love "nerdy" topics, but unfortunatly majority of my RUclips audience does not
I also encountered a difference in voltage on the MAFs. I couldn’t figure it out) The most interesting thing is that when they work from the same filter housing (stock), the voltage is the same, about 1, 1V. But if you install separate filters (Apexi or M's), then the voltage at the rear MAF drops to 0.75V. I can't find the reason)
most important, no rust
This is a heartbreaker for imports into the US. We have a joke that the Japanese are "masters of bondo"
Pretty much if the car got repainted and looks "too good" that is a red flag
The voltage difference between maf’s is completely normal
Around 0.40v difference
I really like your video, earned a subscriber today... If you could do a Attesa System video if you happen to work on it. It would be great. Thanks.
Cool cars but overhyped and overpriced..
Overhyped?!!! Have you ever driven a powerfull one? I can still keep up with anything sub 80K!!!!
A Tesla can overtake me on a straight but on the bends i sit right up their arses!!!!!!
Then after 30 miles of driving the Tesla pulls in to charge for ages.
I drive my 1989 car with pride mate.
450bhp and one mistake and it'll ripp your face off.
So it's a drivers car.
Not some pussy modern drives itself shit!!!!!
@@CloseToTheEdge89 yeah but this car cost also at least 80k
This isn't "relativley unmodified".
Those HKS valves are old and maybe sticking.
The other standard ones are probably redundant by having their vacume hoses taken off.
And the Air Filters look like Mines. About 5yrs later than the HKS valves.
Good for you replacing OEM with later OEM, nothing worse than sticking on some Pony aftermarket crap.
M's IS Mines. I think they use K&N Filters.
K&N's need cleaning and oiling at certain intervals.
I had K&N's on my Mini Cooper S.
R32 GTR rear spoliers are solid. Only the R34 was adjustable.
The front hood spoiler as a Nismo optional extra. And that stud looks wrong.
You don't "add" coolant to the radiator.
You flush it and replace it!!!
The first thing you should do is replace ALL fluids!!!
And uprated fluids if it is tuned such as a 2 way diff!!!!!
The way you prevent shorting of wires is to use copper lube on ALL sockets.
In Japan they used some White crap that dries out after time.
Use a small wire brush and clean all contacts and use copper lube and everything should be fine.
Copper lube on the battery too.
NO, wiring shorts because it has not been serviced properly.
But the plugs must be removed properly with the right tools to prevent damage to them!!!!
I have a Nov 89 BNR32 and i have NEVER had any of these problems.
But then i service it myself.
And it runs 450bhp.
Yes the coil pack wiring needs replacing after 10yrs in the UK.
After market places make perfect replicas that are FAR more stable.
www.surefireonline.co.uk/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-GTR-COILPACK-WIRING-HARNESS-p/sky-r32-gtr-si-harness.htm
Black oil and black plugs can be a sign of not driving enough or fast enough.
These engines need to be USED.
GATES belts are good.
Show us the oil pressure on a good gauge from a cold start up.
16 minutes in and standard front brakes.
How many miles has that car done for front controll arm bushing to fail?
Mind i have Camber Arms with roller bearings.
HICAS is crap, get rid of it.
The Group A cars NEVER used it!!!
It was designed for NOOBS!!!!!
Another good bit of advice is to put solid bushings on the rear subframe.
Makes a bit of noise, especially with a 1.5 or 2 way diff.
But that BURR BURR noise sounds good.
Not revving beyong 2500 is the CPU going into SAFE MODE!!!!
And NO i am not following you.
I pause it and then comment before you reply.
The car will go into SAFE MODE if MANY things break.
It prevents the car blowing up LOL!!!!
Not just MAF failure!!!!
LOL!!!!!
MAF's are $300LOL!!!!!!!
And they can be fixed.
Ususally they are covered in oil and the element only needs to be cleaned with WD40.
Or the wiring is fried so you undo the cover and fix it!!!!
Things are not that hard or expensive!!!!!!
A MAF is simply a coil of metal with a resistance run through it.
The more air runs through it the more the coil COOLS and the reistance drops and therefore it works out how much mass of air has flowed.
It's not rocket science.
So long as the coil hasn't broken then the MAF can be serviced!!!!!
But they are usually similar pairs.
Similar resistance pairs.
You do NOT need to charcoal cannister.
The charcoal cannister has NOTHING to do with emmisions.
Just bypass it. Pressure on the hot side to the turbo controller and bypass. DONE!!!!
This difference is voltages in MAF's is because they are not paired.
In a way it doesn't matter what voltage they have so long as they are VERY close to each other.
That is what i said earlier.
I would bin the Chinese shit and get a JDM S/H MAF for $300 and test that.
Or buy a pair of JDM MAF's that are proven to be a similar Voltage difference.
So long as they are a close Voltage they will work fine.
And they are NOT as expensive as you say!!!!
Ebay Japan!!!!!!
Obviously the oil depends upon the level of tuning.
And the ATTESSA needs more work.
Some folks fit more Clutches in their ATTESSA to give more FWD, others just stick in thicker fluid and an ATTESSA controller.
I have done the latter. Thicker fluid and a "Boxer Series Field E-T-S Linear Electronic Toqure Splitter".
This can give me a 50/50 split.
I can dial in Corner or Striaght Torque to the front.
So 100% Rear on straights and 50/50 on Corners.
This is the BEST thing i have ever fitted to my car because i live in the UK with lots of twisty bits!!!!!
But i need thicker fluid for it.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123745560611
Who ever took that radiator hose off had never serviced it and crust built up and they yanked the hose off and broke the radiator!!!!!
Cowboys and idiots.
No prying with a screwdriver?
NO...YANK it OFF and drink BEER!!!!!
I have a nice ARC radiator.
ARC are V expensive.
Cusco upper controll arms......YES!!!!!!
That CAS is FUBAR!!!!
Given all that @CMAutohaus GREAT WORK fella.
I hope you take my words constructivley.
I'm British and have tuned old Minis, some Hondas, then a 180SX,a Nissan Stagea, then my BNR32 and then some crap Subaru LOL!!!!
Still have the BNR32 and a Riley Elf from 1969 i am restoring with a Stage 3 1400cc engine!!!!!!
Good luck fella!!!!