Hi Rich, I’m late to this series so binged it like it’s on HBO ! When you were stood on the lawn in the first episode it didn’t look that big, looks a bit more substantial now ! The whole project seems to have evolved a fair bit from the first pool ! Keep the videos coming 🎥
This is needed to enable me to pump ground water away from the pool should I encounter any issues with groundwater in future. Alternatively I may dig a trench and channel the ground water to a soakway at a later date.
Looking forward to the next video. Really interested to see what rendering/tanking method you're gonna use. Here in NI amvic seem to be the main source of icf. I'm seriously considering a similar design and DIY build...
So I'm still undecided. Just in the process of getting prices in for the different options. A liner is definitely the safest bet and also seems to be the defacto standard for ICF pools in the states. However based on the coats im getting back at the moment, I'm almost definitely not going with a liner! I also don't like the corner radius in the coping when using pre made bag liners. Decisions decisions!
Hi Jamie, So it's definitely more expensive to go down this route overall. How much more is a good question. I've been asked the question a few times, I'll do some maths and do a cost comparison. As it's not just the cost of the blocks, it's also the cost of the extra steel and concrete to fill the blocks. The blocks for this size pools are about £2300.
@@BenBonsor Any reason why not? They're pretty strong when filled with concrete and steel? Built my last one from 9" hollows and it worked well. They are a pain to work with though. I guess hollows maybe ok with a liner but not for tile. You need a super strong shell for tile I'm guessing. Haven't a clue though as I've never done tile. Tile is a lovely finish though but way outta my price range!
Hi Rich, for a tiled pool they are not a good idea, I’ve seen plenty of pools fail using them. In effect you are only piling the shell, it’s impossible to keep the voids free from mortar, when concreted you run the risk of them not being fully filled. I’ve seen them fail for this exact reason. They are also prone to shrinkage and cracking along mortar joints and the block itself, this can then lead to the render cracking. A continuous pour is by far the best and easiest to control the junction between the wall and floor. Personally I would also avoid ICF but can see the advantages over traditional methods. Not sure why you would use something that comes with a risk that it could burst?
@@BenBonsor yeah Im with you there. I guess the mortar joints are weak points. And I guess just having vertical rebar isn't great in the hollows. On the continent they use hollows that can accept horizontal rebar as well. I filled and pokered the hollows when I used them before. But didn't tile, just painted with a cheap epoxy paint system. It worked well for a number of years. But I've since moved house. Yeah I've seen a few different pools systems out there. But I'm just going with a tried and tested method they mostly do in the States. Nudura/Buildblock ICF Forms with basecrete. I'll certainly not be using Cidercrete that's for sure! Id have liked to have done a monopour with base and floor but didn't feel competent to do that!
Hi Sam. I've already got a 19kw Remora inverter air source heat pump. Still need to get the filter and pump. I didn't miss the main drains on my last pool so figured that was an extra complication I didn't need. I'm going with an experimental system where I'll be placing returns low level down one wall and higher returns on opposite wall. Both angled slightly to create a rolling action to keep water circulates and also encourage dirt to flow towards the skimmer. Whether it'll work or not is another question! But the theory is supported by a pool builder in france who models fluid dynamics !
Thank you so much for your videos! I'm in the stage of making a pool as well, will I have to wait for the next video for you to tell me what will go on the inside of the ICF frame or will you tell me please? :)
Hi Rob. Good stuff, what sort of size pool? And what ICF are you using ? The fact of the matter is that I've not quite determined what my internal finish will be. The safe bet would be a bag liner. However as I'm having internal steps and a shelf/seat, this makes the cost shoot up out of my budget... Therefore I am looking at other options. One of which is Basecrete. An American product (I think!) that looks pretty good. I may put a short video together just on the internal finish options. And their respective pricing!
Would have liked to have done a monopour. And I did look into it. But I don't think i'm capable of doing that! Plus the risk is huge if something goes wrong!
Plan A is to use Basecrete as a membrane and final finish. I'll use the white pigmented variant. Having said that I'll be installing liner fittings and a liner track as an insurance policy . Possibly a liner if my attempt to use Basecrete fails miserably. It's not a DIY product! I really don't like the radius corner on a liner pool and will go to great lengths to not have a radius!
Hi Rich, What made you try ICF rather than doing another block pool? I’m planning my pool build and until I saw this series I was going to block it, interested to hear your thought having already done a block pool now trying ICF
A few reasons. 1. A friend of mine did it up north where it's a bit cooler and is realising low running costs as you're not heating up the walls as well as the water. 2. Im a bit older now and didn't fancy moving hundreds of concrete blocks from my driveway to the garden again! 3. As I'm on clay here I wanted stronger walls than last time. I was on rock before with minimal ground movement. ICF walls don't have mortar joints and have lots of steel horizontally and vertically making a much strong wall structure as the concrete for all 4 walls is poured in one go. The easy option would be block and liner but I really didn't want radius corners on the coping as well. I am using liner fittings and will also install a liner track as an extra insurance policy! ICF is definitely a risk especially in the UK as hardly anyone is doing it. I'm definitely not an expert. Block and liner is the safe bet for sure!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Like the pool series , informative and not too long to watch.
Thank you! Sorry it's taking so long! Would be a few weeks work start to finish without kids!
Amazing build and very informative. Keep it up.
@@donaldgaynor thanks kindly. Just taken the last bit of film for the next video! It'll be out soon!
Great job cuz. Enjoy your enthusiastic and excitable commentary! Look forward to seeing it completed!
Cheers Jon! You'll have to come down for the testing phase!
Top quality video Sir
Why thank you !
Great series! Very much enjoying it.
Awesome, thank you!
Starting to look a bit like a pool! 😀
HeHe yea, It would look like a pool if I had more than an hour a day! lol
@@RichDoesDIYmy experience suggests that that statement may not be 100% true 😂
@@johndouglass9822 o alright, an hour Monday - Thursday and a good few hours on Friday ! 😎
I meant that I’m kind of working on mine full time but don’t seem to be making more progress 😂
Hi Rich, I’m late to this series so binged it like it’s on HBO ! When you were stood on the lawn in the first episode it didn’t look that big, looks a bit more substantial now ! The whole project seems to have evolved a fair bit from the first pool ! Keep the videos coming 🎥
Thanks for the words of encouragement! It's all happening a bit slower than I'd like but hoping to have Ep.9 out soon!
good work
Thank you! Cheers!
Why's the perforated pipe needed?
This is needed to enable me to pump ground water away from the pool should I encounter any issues with groundwater in future. Alternatively I may dig a trench and channel the ground water to a soakway at a later date.
Looking forward to the next video. Really interested to see what rendering/tanking method you're gonna use. Here in NI amvic seem to be the main source of icf. I'm seriously considering a similar design and DIY build...
So I'm still undecided. Just in the process of getting prices in for the different options. A liner is definitely the safest bet and also seems to be the defacto standard for ICF pools in the states. However based on the coats im getting back at the moment, I'm almost definitely not going with a liner! I also don't like the corner radius in the coping when using pre made bag liners. Decisions decisions!
We’re thinking of using hollow concrete blocks, render then tile.
Are these icf blocks expensive?
Hi Jamie, So it's definitely more expensive to go down this route overall. How much more is a good question. I've been asked the question a few times, I'll do some maths and do a cost comparison. As it's not just the cost of the blocks, it's also the cost of the extra steel and concrete to fill the blocks. The blocks for this size pools are about £2300.
What ever you do don’t use 9inch hollows!!
@@BenBonsor Any reason why not? They're pretty strong when filled with concrete and steel?
Built my last one from 9" hollows and it worked well. They are a pain to work with though.
I guess hollows maybe ok with a liner but not for tile. You need a super strong shell for tile I'm guessing. Haven't a clue though as I've never done tile. Tile is a lovely finish though but way outta my price range!
Hi Rich, for a tiled pool they are not a good idea, I’ve seen plenty of pools fail using them. In effect you are only piling the shell, it’s impossible to keep the voids free from mortar, when concreted you run the risk of them not being fully filled. I’ve seen them fail for this exact reason. They are also prone to shrinkage and cracking along mortar joints and the block itself, this can then lead to the render cracking.
A continuous pour is by far the best and easiest to control the junction between the wall and floor.
Personally I would also avoid ICF but can see the advantages over traditional methods.
Not sure why you would use something that comes with a risk that it could burst?
@@BenBonsor yeah Im with you there. I guess the mortar joints are weak points. And I guess just having vertical rebar isn't great in the hollows. On the continent they use hollows that can accept horizontal rebar as well. I filled and pokered the hollows when I used them before. But didn't tile, just painted with a cheap epoxy paint system. It worked well for a number of years. But I've since moved house.
Yeah I've seen a few different pools systems out there. But I'm just going with a tried and tested method they mostly do in the States. Nudura/Buildblock ICF Forms with basecrete. I'll certainly not be using Cidercrete that's for sure!
Id have liked to have done a monopour with base and floor but didn't feel competent to do that!
Great videos cover all the questions, what size heater will you be using and what was the idea against a bottom drain ?
Hi Sam. I've already got a 19kw Remora inverter air source heat pump. Still need to get the filter and pump. I didn't miss the main drains on my last pool so figured that was an extra complication I didn't need. I'm going with an experimental system where I'll be placing returns low level down one wall and higher returns on opposite wall. Both angled slightly to create a rolling action to keep water circulates and also encourage dirt to flow towards the skimmer. Whether it'll work or not is another question! But the theory is supported by a pool builder in france who models fluid dynamics !
Thank you so much for your videos! I'm in the stage of making a pool as well, will I have to wait for the next video for you to tell me what will go on the inside of the ICF frame or will you tell me please? :)
Hi Rob. Good stuff, what sort of size pool? And what ICF are you using ? The fact of the matter is that I've not quite determined what my internal finish will be. The safe bet would be a bag liner. However as I'm having internal steps and a shelf/seat, this makes the cost shoot up out of my budget...
Therefore I am looking at other options. One of which is Basecrete. An American product (I think!) that looks pretty good. I may put a short video together just on the internal finish options. And their respective pricing!
Are you thinking you should have done a monopour at this point?
Would have liked to have done a monopour. And I did look into it. But I don't think i'm capable of doing that! Plus the risk is huge if something goes wrong!
Monopours are the dream but the stakes are high! I haven’t heard of any done in the UK yet have you?
@@johndouglass9822 we're a bit late to be pioneers in that area aren't we!
What is the interior finish on the ICF. Is it plaster or a liner?
Plan A is to use Basecrete as a membrane and final finish. I'll use the white pigmented variant.
Having said that I'll be installing liner fittings and a liner track as an insurance policy . Possibly a liner if my attempt to use Basecrete fails miserably. It's not a DIY product! I really don't like the radius corner on a liner pool and will go to great lengths to not have a radius!
Hi Rich, What made you try ICF rather than doing another block pool? I’m planning my pool build and until I saw this series I was going to block it, interested to hear your thought having already done a block pool now trying ICF
A few reasons. 1. A friend of mine did it up north where it's a bit cooler and is realising low running costs as you're not heating up the walls as well as the water. 2. Im a bit older now and didn't fancy moving hundreds of concrete blocks from my driveway to the garden again! 3. As I'm on clay here I wanted stronger walls than last time. I was on rock before with minimal ground movement. ICF walls don't have mortar joints and have lots of steel horizontally and vertically making a much strong wall structure as the concrete for all 4 walls is poured in one go.
The easy option would be block and liner but I really didn't want radius corners on the coping as well. I am using liner fittings and will also install a liner track as an extra insurance policy!
ICF is definitely a risk especially in the UK as hardly anyone is doing it. I'm definitely not an expert. Block and liner is the safe bet for sure!