idk why bros thick country accent and the way he get straight to point, allows me to understand exactly what he explains and seem to be trustworthy he actually knows what the hell he talking about. God bless and thanks.
Thank you so much for this video ... ive been chasing my tail for days .. ive replaced almost every single thing rebuilt the fuel regulator replaced the injectors ... replaced plugs wires rotor cap oil pressure switch fuel pump ..filter ... i was just about to calll the wrecking yard .. see you talk about a map sensor and temp sensor i said why not at this point .... it immediatelyf fired up ...
The frame rate of the camera you are using is what caused the spray of fuel to appear on video differently then it did in reality. Imagine what a strobe light does except for it's a picture taken by a camera, or maybe imagine a GIF. :-) Thanks for the video, I am going to throw a new map sensor in because my truck has 320k+ miles and she probably needs it.
Thanks for the video. My 1994 454 suddenly started flooding, my shop claimed the temp sensor was the problem but couldn't fix it, even with a new part. I couldn't get a code from the check engine bypass trick. It's undriveable so I'll try changing one thing at a time.
This is great pointing things out, but how do we know which one is the problem without just replacing everything? How did you know for sure it was the cap and rotor and spark plug wires? Was it all of those things or did you just replace them all to be sure?
I changed my cap and now it runs smooth (92 chevy Tahoe 350 ) but only in the am when it first starts up I try to take off and it backfires but only once , once it’s warmed up it’s running good
Thanks, the little guy on top (coolant temp sensor) broke and made my truck start rough with the flood and service light come on. Just replaced and truck starts normal without no service light.
@gregorymalchuk272 No, not all the time but you can verify it's the sensor with the paperclip on the OBD port (look up how to use paperclip for code reading). Google gmt 800 diagnostic code to verify.
I just recently replaced my ignition coil due to a blue arc and (popping sound) from the wire to the metal part of ignition coil. Im assuming the wire is bad but not certain. What do you think it is?
1987 4x4 silverado wiring harness caused so many problems after truck reached 20 year point eventually converted to carburetor. Map sensor caused problems every 6 months I started carrying 2 spares. Ignition modules every 2 or 3 years until finally traced intermittent engine shutdowns on highway to corrosion on bottom of distributor pickup
I’ve got an 87 too ..fuel pump stays on when key off ..new pumps relay tank actuator no breaks in the wires ..now runs like it has a cam when first fired up..seems to be an air leak I don’t know..any suggestions having the same truck?
Mine did the same thing for years during warm up even with new vacuum lines, manifold gaskets,tbi gasket, fuel pump, inline filter and injectors . Always figured it was the 3" exhaust and headers with summit x pipe I installed made the primitive computer go crazy never changed with summit chip and used Bosch 02 sensor. I bought truck new when fuel injection was the 1st year on chevy trucks and GM couldn't possibly know the bugs that system would produce.
1990 GMC Sierra changed plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button and EGR valve and still runs rich, cant get through emissions, have had it tested 4 times. Any suggestions
Hey does anyone know why it’s just dumping gas on my passenger side injector? Someone put sugar in my gas replaced the pump and redone the gaskets on the throttle and put new injectors in old ones were toast
I had some problems with my S15 jimmy, I replaced a bunch of stuff and sensors and could not stop the running rich issue, finally I set the timing according to manual and then focused on electrical, and that’s where the problem was, fuel pump relay😡
Hello there thanks for the knowledge... I had a question I just bought a 91 1500 and it’s idling high and when I rev it high I get white smoke out the back
Just changed distrubotor due to no spark no pulse. Now it pulses injectors with wkey on engine off. Will run on throttle floods out at idle, we literally fill throttle body above throttle plates once it dies. I'm assuming that's the module bad in the new cheapo distrubutor?
iv never heard of this. maybe a stuck fuel pump relay. i think there is a sensor on the dizzy that controls the spark, i dont think it has anything to do with fuel pump running. ignition pickup
if its a miss then it sounds like its missing and the engine will shake. newer cars if it detects a miss the engine light will normally flash. flooding u can smell it flooding or notice some blackish flood smoke.
Ya truck sat for 9 yrs in the driveway and now I’ve got it running but I can’t get it to pass smog. I put a new catalytic converter and in a week it burned the cat up! Literally ate up the inside of the cat. Help!!! I can smell that it’s running rich but how do I fix that? Any suggestions will help! Please!!! It ran perfect before the transmission went out and it runs excellent now with no codes I already replaced all the sensors
Hello. Good video. I have an 94 7.4 2wd suburban I'm getting super surging when put in gear. Driving is moderate kinda goes away. Weird. I've replaced Tps Map Iac last year Temperature sensor last year Whole Distributor this year.. also purchased rebuild kit to rebuild old one. I think canister purge valve. Has new plugs. Oem plug wires Rebuilt tbi - all orings ,gaskets. Fuel pressure regulator. New oxygen sensor. All vacuum lines replaced Oil change Air filter I did buy this suburban used. And had trany built. I can't let it go for a dumb idle issue. Any more help. I can get. Thanks. I hate to take to a shop and pay out tons. When I can try myself.. Also timed @ 4degrees. New fuel filter. The old distributor pick up coil was super extra rusted and cap rotor has massive corrosion
1990 gmc c1500 5 speed manuel with a 350 small block it runs good but sometimes stalls when I come to a stop thinking it’s in gear still backfiring and popping but I’m in neutral I give it gas and it gets back to it’s normal oil pressure and idle not sure if it’s my trans or motor but it’s wierd need help changes my plugs wire ignition coil fuel filter and everything has been working good other than that little detail of it wanting to stall when thinking it’s in gear and of course if your in any gear and stop without putting it in neutral it will stall.
@@carlosmagana5909 ending up being my EGR valve stuck on open when I would step on it the valve would open to release gas and won’t close changed it and had no problems after
All those injectors I've seen do have a rapid pulse to them but not a real slow pulse like that, just have been the frame rate settings on the camera:)
I have a 1994 GMC k1500 5.7 that continues to run rich. Completely brand new throttle body with all new injectors and temperature control senser. Also new throttle position senser and idle air control valve. New Mass air senser, plugs and wires with cap and rotor and a new 02 sensor but its still running rich. so I bought a new distributor and will be putting that on this Friday. If that don't stop it from running rich I don't no what else to do. Any input would be great thanks
With all the money I have put into it it just might be lol. Will let you know if the distributor is it or not. It seems to run richer when it gets at running temperature. That why I put the new temperature senser in.
I have a 1994 Chevy Silverado I replaced the ECU buy the cap and rotor I replaced fuel pump relay and I replaced the fuel filter Everytime I give it gas it's dies how can I fix it
I’m thinking of buying a 4.3L Chevy that is running rich it has over 200k miles. Is running rich a fixable problem, is running rich more of a communications between sensors, ECU EXTERNAL issue versus internal engine problems?? Should I expect an internal engine component failure from a running rich condition… is that common??
Yes majority of the time its sensor, cheap part related. Shouldn't be anything wrong with the internals. Just always warm the motor up and check oil pressure. Oil pressure is key
@@rednecklife55 thanks, I thought so, I took a look at the truck earlier. I wasn’t able to start it because the guy was working, but I noticed that the MAP green connector was disconnected and not MAP sensor to be found. The guy said that it idles high when he starts it, then when Putting it into gear it boggs and sputter like it’s wants to die. So far I would say the Missing MAP sensor is the problem at the moment.
So I have a 93 k1500 350 tbi and it constantly floods, I can’t seem to figure out what’s wrong with it, I changed the map sensor, distributor cap, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuses and anything that I can think of, if anyone can point me towards what to look for next that would greatly be appreciated as i need my truck and it hasn’t been going for a few months now
Hey yeah I have a question I turn my key to on pos.and the injectors just spray and spray and spray and spray flooding out my engine to where it won't start or if it does start it floods out same recommendation? Or is that the diaphragm holding the injectors in place?
My car 1990 Chevy Caprice tbi runs good til I sit at a red light to long then it just die and you can smell gas but it'll start back up and drive .... Alot of people saying the TBI is bad or computer what u think?
Does anyone know why my 1994 k1500 runs great but when it gets hot it wants to load up with fuel. Sometimes if I drive it somewhere and park and go inside and come back to start it up it will just bog down. I can’t even go through a drive through without it building up with fuel. At least that’s what I think it’s doing. Anything will help thanks
ICM ignition control module burning out? My 1991 350 TBI would run great for about 5-7 miles until the engine warmed up, then stall out. Hard to start and keep running with engine warm, backfiring. Seemed like it was flooding out. Strong gas fumes. Longer it sat and cooled down, the further I could drive. Thought it was the coolant sensor at first. It failed the ohm test, but realized my multimeter also burned out and was giving wrong readings. Then just before I got the new multimeter, the truck would not start at all. No spark at any of the plugs. Got new multimeter. Pickup coil output okay. Ignition coil okay. ICM sits between the pickup coil and the ignition coil, so if both of those work, the ICM is likely at fault if no spark at plugs. ICM has to be taken to a shop to be tested if suspected. Removed old ICM. Turns out the dielectric grease under the ICM totally evaporated and the ICM overheated and finally burned out completely. Got new ICM. Problem solved. Now I can work on poor acceleration that is likely fuel related. This is fun. Not.
@@user-bg2oi4bz3p so I got to looking and a lot of people don’t really think of this but when you put a new motor in a lot of times people will crimp the fuel return line right behind the throttle body. Well sure enough that’s what happened to mine. It was crimped just enough to not let fuel return back to the tank.
No valve noise when I start it from a cold start and I put it into gear and drive it has power but as soon as it starts to warm up I start losing power and starts backfiring from the intake at that point I just let it warm up and even then I step on the gas it just backfires from intake and has no power to go unless I rev it up high and release clutch super slow which I dont like doing once I'm going I dont have enough power to pass cars when I need too as soon as I try to give it gas backfire from intake
I've got a 95 350tbi bogging down and backfiring at highway speed, i just did tune up all filters and tps. Idles low and bogs out at cruising then starts bucking and jumping like i lost a spark plug wire until i stop and check. Then it bugs out again. Any advice for all that?
I have a 1993 GMC 5.7 v8 and it won’t accelerate when u press down the peddle all the way u have to lightly tap it for the truck to accelerate I already changed the knock sensor, map sensor I need help any suggestions??
I replaced my plugs and wires on my 94 and immediately when I went to start it ran real rough then caught idle and stayed right after about 30 seconds, stops on me at certain stops and when I turn it on it bogs for about another 20 secs then catches
I got the same issue my 1990 c1500 kinda tries to die first thing in the morning as if I let the clutch out but I don’t and sometimes it backfired when I’m out of gear and in neutral and stalks when I come to a complete stop but I don’t let it stall and hit the gas.
I was a fleet mechanic and had a lot of these trucks. Had one that was pouring black smoke out the exhaust. Found out one injector had something stuck in it and it was wide open all the time.
So i have a 91 4.3l s10 and its running rich and ive replaced the ignition system new distributor with the cap and icm and rotor like whole new distributor and did the coil and plugs and wires its also got a new o2 sensor oil pressure sensor sender switch and new eec canister and air filter plus i did oil and coolant flush /refill. And used a can of seafoam through the intake but it still failed the smog test im in California. It fail because hydrocarbons so its running too rich but i cant see any leaks from injectors or anything
I think you have several options here. See if you can have your local mechanic check your fuel pressure, also check the fuel pressure regulator its behind your 2 injectors there are a few screws holding the too peice on u csn see if it failed and is throwing pressure off. Try getting another used set or new Injectors. Check your timing it sounds like the map sensor check the vacuum hose from the map sensor to the back of the throttle body or the engine coolant temperature sensor you can tell if it's bad I would bet that its between the map sensor or the engine coolant temperature sensor
I doubt it's the regulator but there are a few screws on top of the peice that mounts your 2 injectors take the screws out and you can look at the regulator my money is the map sensor or ect sensor but if you want a further inspection of the regulator I could make you a video of it tomorrow
@@rednecklife55 all my vac lines are good too ive checked it so much and my distributor is in pointing pretty much directly at the cylinder 1 and plug tower 1 i can get a timing light in the am but pretty sure i need the new oil pressure sensor sending unit switch and map sensor
@@Petrolhead350cui awesome im still struggling with mine I rebuilt the throttle body and put new throttle position sensor along with the idle air control valve and it fixed most of the idle issue also new plugs wires but still runs a little rich at idle.. now the only things left is the coolant temp and map sensor.
Forgot to mention tbi unit runs at 11-13 psi I bought an inline test kit with various fittings and a Gauge from O'Reilly auto parts that can be screwed inline at your fuel filter on the passenger side frame rail. Summit racing offers an adjustable fuel regulator that installs on the back of your tbi unit where the diaphragm is housed it has a knob that screw in or out for more or less fuel. I personally never bought that kit since psi was 12. After 36 years of screwing with that truck I finally went to a carb but saved tbi/ egr manifold and distributor and did not cut anything off wire harness
@@markhumphrey6016 summit racing non-egr manifold part# sum-226061 for chevy 262-400 eng. Years 1955-95 $184.00 edelbrock 1406 carb $428.00 part# EDL-1406 Holly bypass fuel pressure regulator part# HLY-12-881 it has inlet/outlet and 1/8" gauge port $69.00 . Summit fuel pressure gauge 0-30 psi part #sum-800136 $32.00 summit aluminum inline fuel filter part # sum-230100 size -6AN fitting $29.00 used Russell proflex fuel hose 10 ft. $66.99 plus fuel line adapters are AN-6 to metric O-Ring fittings if you go the stainless covered hose route like I did or save time by cutting your metal fuels to use rubber hose and clamps. You will need a new HEI distributor also, I bought a summit brand. Don't hack your computer harness to the old distributor up, on the distributor plug you will need to splice into the purple wire of that 4 prong plug so your fuel pump operates with key on/off excess fuel travels back to fuel tank via bypass regulator to return line. Koul tool kit or single fitting assembly tool part #KTS-6 for assembling -6AN hoses. Look at summit racing online catalog 2023
@@markhumphrey6016 forgot to ask if your truck is a 90's model you will have to use a holly carburetor with a TPS sensor attached on the electric choke of the carburetor to shift your computer controlled transmission, mine is a 1987 chevy 4x4 with a 700r4 transmission that uses a TV cable to shift therefor I didn't need to use the holley carb setup which summit racing also sells if neeed.
In saying the coolant temp sensor senses how warm or cold the coolant is to therefor regulate how rich or lean to regulate the fuel sir. Speak b4 u know
Tour comment here made me subscribe. Lol gearheads should always hug into the theory of how components work within their system and together with others. Be open to information at the same time diagnose your problems as your own. When I get stuck I just watch random videos to wrap away from my project and let them gears in my head get lubes up and start moving again. Goin down that line if troubleshooting. Your my kinda a guy someone I orolky drink a beer with open a hood and shoot the shit. I enjoyed your video thank you but this remark is what made me have to subscribe. Damn trolls keep that ba to yourselves speak information and have conversations but dont be narrow minded we all came here for information. And you look like a complete idiot rn . I call bs u ever popped a hood or changed a tire
@@rednecklife55 don't need to be like that in your video your comment you made was that it regulated how hot or cold the engine got maybe describing something in a clear manner would cause less confusion....... when what you ment to say sends a single to help the engine determine whether to add more or less gas pending it being hot or cold
Авто/Мото
idk why bros thick country accent and the way he get straight to point, allows me to understand exactly what he explains and seem to be trustworthy he actually knows what the hell he talking about. God bless and thanks.
thanks for watching
Thank you so much for this video ... ive been chasing my tail for days .. ive replaced almost every single thing rebuilt the fuel regulator replaced the injectors ... replaced plugs wires rotor cap oil pressure switch fuel pump ..filter ... i was just about to calll the wrecking yard .. see you talk about a map sensor and temp sensor i said why not at this point .... it immediatelyf fired up ...
What was it and any code
@@haniballectorhave you figured it out yet having the same issue
I'm starting to look into this on my 94 sierra. This was VERY helpful, thank you
The frame rate of the camera you are using is what caused the spray of fuel to appear on video differently then it did in reality. Imagine what a strobe light does except for it's a picture taken by a camera, or maybe imagine a GIF. :-) Thanks for the video, I am going to throw a new map sensor in because my truck has 320k+ miles and she probably needs it.
Thanks for the video. My 1994 454 suddenly started flooding, my shop claimed the temp sensor was the problem but couldn't fix it, even with a new part. I couldn't get a code from the check engine bypass trick. It's undriveable so I'll try changing one thing at a time.
Thanks bro saved me money and enlightened me
I swear YOU know what your talking about Thank YOU
Yw
This is great pointing things out, but how do we know which one is the problem without just replacing everything? How did you know for sure it was the cap and rotor and spark plug wires? Was it all of those things or did you just replace them all to be sure?
This video is GOLD
I changed my cap and now it runs smooth (92 chevy Tahoe 350 ) but only in the am when it first starts up I try to take off and it backfires but only once , once it’s warmed up it’s running good
Thanks, the little guy on top (coolant temp sensor) broke and made my truck start rough with the flood and service light come on. Just replaced and truck starts normal without no service light.
Woud the check engine light mostly come on during extended idling (like more than a minute or two)?
@gregorymalchuk272 No, not all the time but you can verify it's the sensor with the paperclip on the OBD port (look up how to use paperclip for code reading). Google gmt 800 diagnostic code to verify.
What if it runs good BUT, it's getting too much fuel?
Thanks bro
Got a 93 cutting out at take off and idel when just giving a little peddle any thoughts giving map code changed it and still doing it
Thanks for the help
Maybe a faulty fuel pressure regulator or vacuum leak, o2 sensor.
Been looking for a video that showes what it's supposed to look like. I think mine runs constantly.. the fuel electors
Thank god I found this
I just recently replaced my ignition coil due to a blue arc and (popping sound) from the wire to the metal part of ignition coil. Im assuming the wire is bad but not certain. What do you think it is?
What is the other plug beside the knock senser
Will a vehicle run without the maf sensor?
1987 4x4 silverado wiring harness caused so many problems after truck reached 20 year point eventually converted to carburetor. Map sensor caused problems every 6 months I started carrying 2 spares. Ignition modules every 2 or 3 years until finally traced intermittent engine shutdowns on highway to corrosion on bottom of distributor pickup
I’ve got an 87 too ..fuel pump stays on when key off ..new pumps relay tank actuator no breaks in the wires ..now runs like it has a cam when first fired up..seems to be an air leak I don’t know..any suggestions having the same truck?
Mine did the same thing for years during warm up even with new vacuum lines, manifold gaskets,tbi gasket, fuel pump, inline filter and injectors . Always figured it was the 3" exhaust and headers with summit x pipe I installed made the primitive computer go crazy never changed with summit chip and used Bosch 02 sensor. I bought truck new when fuel injection was the 1st year on chevy trucks and GM couldn't possibly know the bugs that system would produce.
1990 GMC Sierra changed plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button and EGR valve and still runs rich, cant get through emissions, have had it tested 4 times. Any suggestions
Check regulator or injector pulse
Hey does anyone know why it’s just dumping gas on my passenger side injector? Someone put sugar in my gas replaced the pump and redone the gaskets on the throttle and put new injectors in old ones were toast
I had some problems with my S15 jimmy, I replaced a bunch of stuff and sensors and could not stop the running rich issue, finally I set the timing according to manual and then focused on electrical, and that’s where the problem was, fuel pump relay😡
Hello there thanks for the knowledge... I had a question I just bought a 91 1500 and it’s idling high and when I rev it high I get white smoke out the back
Maybe a head gasket leak??
Thanks for the information.
What about gray smoke on starting and high idle after warming up 93 GMC 4.3
Try replacing your pcv valve and check for cracked hoses.
Worst case scenario valve stem seals unless it’s got 1,000,000,000 miles on it and it’s probably more the fuck out bro lol
Just changed distrubotor due to no spark no pulse. Now it pulses injectors with wkey on engine off. Will run on throttle floods out at idle, we literally fill throttle body above throttle plates once it dies. I'm assuming that's the module bad in the new cheapo distrubutor?
iv never heard of this. maybe a stuck fuel pump relay. i think there is a sensor on the dizzy that controls the spark, i dont think it has anything to do with fuel pump running. ignition pickup
my truck boggs out its 95 gmc 2500 change fuel fliter ecm tps clean carburetor still boggs but runs real smooth n quiet
intake gaskets are common too on tbi v6 and v8s
What about v10'$
I wish more people making repair diagnosis vids would show how the vehicle is running before its repaired to see its symptoms
if its a miss then it sounds like its missing and the engine will shake. newer cars if it detects a miss the engine light will normally flash. flooding u can smell it flooding or notice some blackish flood smoke.
@@rednecklife55 Got it, Thx
Ya truck sat for 9 yrs in the driveway and now I’ve got it running but I can’t get it to pass smog. I put a new catalytic converter and in a week it burned the cat up! Literally ate up the inside of the cat. Help!!! I can smell that it’s running rich but how do I fix that? Any suggestions will help! Please!!! It ran perfect before the transmission went out and it runs excellent now with no codes I already replaced all the sensors
Have you done a good tune up?
Hello. Good video.
I have an 94 7.4 2wd suburban
I'm getting super surging when put in gear. Driving is moderate kinda goes away. Weird.
I've replaced
Tps
Map
Iac last year
Temperature sensor last year
Whole Distributor this year.. also purchased rebuild kit to rebuild old one.
I think canister purge valve.
Has new plugs.
Oem plug wires
Rebuilt tbi - all orings ,gaskets. Fuel pressure regulator.
New oxygen sensor.
All vacuum lines replaced
Oil change
Air filter
I did buy this suburban used. And had trany built.
I can't let it go for a dumb idle issue. Any more help. I can get. Thanks.
I hate to take to a shop and pay out tons. When I can try myself..
Also timed @ 4degrees.
New fuel filter.
The old distributor pick up coil was super extra rusted and cap rotor has massive corrosion
Time at 0 them old trucks prefer it
1990 gmc c1500 5 speed manuel with a 350 small block it runs good but sometimes stalls when I come to a stop thinking it’s in gear still backfiring and popping but I’m in neutral I give it gas and it gets back to it’s normal oil pressure and idle not sure if it’s my trans or motor but it’s wierd need help changes my plugs wire ignition coil fuel filter and everything has been working good other than that little detail of it wanting to stall when thinking it’s in gear and of course if your in any gear and stop without putting it in neutral it will stall.
I have the same problem lmk if U found the Issue
@@carlosmagana5909 same here
@@carlosmagana5909 ending up being my EGR valve stuck on open when I would step on it the valve would open to release gas and won’t close changed it and had no problems after
what kind of smoke 💨 white?
That spray pattern shot let me know my shit is bad lol
All those injectors I've seen do have a rapid pulse to them but not a real slow pulse like that, just have been the frame rate settings on the camera:)
After about a minute one of the injectors quits spraying and goes into rough idle and sputters and dies. What do you think is the problem?
Ignition control module
Could a MAP sensor give me code 33 and 43
How do you get the injectors to do patterns mine just throwing fuel flush
Then they are bad.. if fuel pump is good
I have a 1994 GMC k1500 5.7 that continues to run rich. Completely brand new throttle body with all new injectors and temperature control senser. Also new throttle position senser and idle air control valve. New Mass air senser, plugs and wires with cap and rotor and a new 02 sensor but its still running rich. so I bought a new distributor and will be putting that on this Friday. If that don't stop it from running rich I don't no what else to do. Any input would be great thanks
Sounds like a lemon lol, but lmk how the distributor goes
With all the money I have put into it it just might be lol. Will let you know if the distributor is it or not. It seems to run richer when it gets at running temperature. That why I put the new temperature senser in.
@@sassykat012283 did u replace engine coolant temp sensor
Yes I did replace the engine coolant sensor
Change the timing a bit
I have a 1994 Chevy Silverado I replaced the ECU buy the cap and rotor I replaced fuel pump relay and I replaced the fuel filter Everytime I give it gas it's dies how can I fix it
EGR valve fixed that for mine. Easy to change.
I’m thinking of buying a 4.3L Chevy that is running rich it has over 200k miles.
Is running rich a fixable problem, is running rich more of a communications between sensors, ECU EXTERNAL issue versus internal engine problems??
Should I expect an internal engine component failure from a running rich condition… is that common??
Yes majority of the time its sensor, cheap part related. Shouldn't be anything wrong with the internals. Just always warm the motor up and check oil pressure. Oil pressure is key
@@rednecklife55 thanks, I thought so, I took a look at the truck earlier. I wasn’t able to start it because the guy was working, but I noticed that the MAP green connector was disconnected and not MAP sensor to be found.
The guy said that it idles high when he starts it, then when Putting it into gear it boggs and sputter like it’s wants to die.
So far I would say the Missing MAP sensor is the problem at the moment.
@@texas87horns probably has something to do with it. Or idle air control valve
So I have a 93 k1500 350 tbi and it constantly floods, I can’t seem to figure out what’s wrong with it, I changed the map sensor, distributor cap, spark plugs and wires, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuses and anything that I can think of, if anyone can point me towards what to look for next that would greatly be appreciated as i need my truck and it hasn’t been going for a few months now
update: it ran good until i changed the fuel pump
Hey yeah I have a question I turn my key to on pos.and the injectors just spray and spray and spray and spray flooding out my engine to where it won't start or if it does start it floods out same recommendation? Or is that the diaphragm holding the injectors in place?
I would suspect whatever the part is called that tells injectors to fire. follow wires and youll find the problem I suppose
My car 1990 Chevy Caprice tbi runs good til I sit at a red light to long then it just die and you can smell gas but it'll start back up and drive .... Alot of people saying the TBI is bad or computer what u think?
Try ur tpi sensor
@@rednecklife55 I change that also didn't work
Map sensor
Mine does the exact same 1994 Silverado 5.7 tbi
My 89 Chevy caprice Tbi is spraying out too much fuel. Any ideas on why? Can get it to run for a few but not driveable.
i have a 1995 k1500 and at idle the throttle body makes a high pitched whistle noise i dont know why
check the IAC valve
maybe a vacuum leak like he described in the beginning. tb gasket
Yep, sounds like vacuum leak, check tbi base plate gasket, I use water squirt bottle
O2 sensor
@@worstnightmare9772 check engine light would come on for 02 sensor...
I got a 88 5.7 and it shifts at high rpm’s in 1st gear and ideal?
it may be the tv cable adjusted or the tps. im not to sure on it tho
Throttle valve is probably stuck in transmission.
Does anyone know why my 1994 k1500 runs great but when it gets hot it wants to load up with fuel. Sometimes if I drive it somewhere and park and go inside and come back to start it up it will just bog down. I can’t even go through a drive through without it building up with fuel. At least that’s what I think it’s doing. Anything will help thanks
ICM ignition control module burning out? My 1991 350 TBI would run great for about 5-7 miles until the engine warmed up, then stall out. Hard to start and keep running with engine warm, backfiring. Seemed like it was flooding out. Strong gas fumes. Longer it sat and cooled down, the further I could drive. Thought it was the coolant sensor at first. It failed the ohm test, but realized my multimeter also burned out and was giving wrong readings. Then just before I got the new multimeter, the truck would not start at all. No spark at any of the plugs. Got new multimeter. Pickup coil output okay. Ignition coil okay. ICM sits between the pickup coil and the ignition coil, so if both of those work, the ICM is likely at fault if no spark at plugs. ICM has to be taken to a shop to be tested if suspected. Removed old ICM. Turns out the dielectric grease under the ICM totally evaporated and the ICM overheated and finally burned out completely. Got new ICM. Problem solved.
Now I can work on poor acceleration that is likely fuel related.
This is fun. Not.
@@user-bg2oi4bz3p so I got to looking and a lot of people don’t really think of this but when you put a new motor in a lot of times people will crimp the fuel return line right behind the throttle body. Well sure enough that’s what happened to mine. It was crimped just enough to not let fuel return back to the tank.
@@Tman-jg7tu I was hoping you had already found it. Good detective work. So many things could go wrong and it's so time-consuming.
Hey I got a 1991 gmc Sierra 5.7 I replaced the fuel injectors and fuel regulator but still backfires so the culprit is cap and rotor?
Or possibly engine coolant temp sensor
Replaced coolant temp sensor still having the same problem up next spark plugs and wires then cap and rotor
Is there any valve noise?? Does it backfire under heavy load?? Miss on several cylinders?
No valve noise when I start it from a cold start and I put it into gear and drive it has power but as soon as it starts to warm up I start losing power and starts backfiring from the intake at that point I just let it warm up and even then I step on the gas it just backfires from intake and has no power to go unless I rev it up high and release clutch super slow which I dont like doing once I'm going I dont have enough power to pass cars when I need too as soon as I try to give it gas backfire from intake
Have you checked the timing??
I've got a 95 350tbi bogging down and backfiring at highway speed, i just did tune up all filters and tps. Idles low and bogs out at cruising then starts bucking and jumping like i lost a spark plug wire until i stop and check. Then it bugs out again. Any advice for all that?
Did you change the coil its self??
I did not but it doesn't look crusty or rusty may have been changed before i got the truck.
check your timing and maybe you got a clogged exhaust system.
Distributor maybe
I have a 1993 GMC 5.7 v8 and it won’t accelerate when u press down the peddle all the way u have to lightly tap it for the truck to accelerate I already changed the knock sensor, map sensor I need help any suggestions??
Tps throttle position sensors
I have same issue
I have same problem. I will return .............
I replaced my plugs and wires on my 94 and immediately when I went to start it ran real rough then caught idle and stayed right after about 30 seconds, stops on me at certain stops and when I turn it on it bogs for about another 20 secs then catches
I got the same issue my 1990 c1500 kinda tries to die first thing in the morning as if I let the clutch out but I don’t and sometimes it backfired when I’m out of gear and in neutral and stalks when I come to a complete stop but I don’t let it stall and hit the gas.
@@sega2229ever figure it out?
Mine is a 4.3l and it’s running high idle. Any ideas?
Map sensor
Figure it out?
What could it possibly mean if both injectors are spraying constantly at the same time?
Paint yer truck Black !!!
Cuál es la solución!!!?? Porfa
Mine has the problem but it don’t pulse it just dumps so much fuel constantly
Did u find the fix? Mine does the same
I was a fleet mechanic and had a lot of these trucks. Had one that was pouring black smoke out the exhaust. Found out one injector had something stuck in it and it was wide open all the time.
Mine runs rough and then shuts off what could it be ?
Injectors
Thank you much sir
Your fuel pump could be on its way out too, happened to mine.
My 1989 4.3 s15 is throwing flames out the catalytic converter! Help lol
We are going to set the standard.
No weapons on Sunday.
We will keep it HOLY unto GOD in JESUS name amen
So i have a 91 4.3l s10 and its running rich and ive replaced the ignition system new distributor with the cap and icm and rotor like whole new distributor and did the coil and plugs and wires its also got a new o2 sensor oil pressure sensor sender switch and new eec canister and air filter plus i did oil and coolant flush /refill. And used a can of seafoam through the intake but it still failed the smog test im in California. It fail because hydrocarbons so its running too rich but i cant see any leaks from injectors or anything
I think you have several options here. See if you can have your local mechanic check your fuel pressure, also check the fuel pressure regulator its behind your 2 injectors there are a few screws holding the too peice on u csn see if it failed and is throwing pressure off. Try getting another used set or new Injectors. Check your timing it sounds like the map sensor check the vacuum hose from the map sensor to the back of the throttle body or the engine coolant temperature sensor you can tell if it's bad I would bet that its between the map sensor or the engine coolant temperature sensor
Keep me updated please
@@rednecklife55 so to check my fuel pressure regulator what would i do i did clean the top of the trottle body with throttle body cleaner.
I doubt it's the regulator but there are a few screws on top of the peice that mounts your 2 injectors take the screws out and you can look at the regulator my money is the map sensor or ect sensor but if you want a further inspection of the regulator I could make you a video of it tomorrow
@@rednecklife55 all my vac lines are good too ive checked it so much and my distributor is in pointing pretty much directly at the cylinder 1 and plug tower 1 i can get a timing light in the am but pretty sure i need the new oil pressure sensor sending unit switch and map sensor
Cts coolant temp sensor
My spray pattern on the right is pretty bad
Put all the things you called, in new, except for the fuel regulator. Still runs like shit, too rich, black smoke when starting. 91 gmc vandura.
Rebuild the throttle body
@@thrasherjay2400 I did, but I found the issue. One of the rubber seals of one injector was ripped.
@@Petrolhead350cui awesome im still struggling with mine I rebuilt the throttle body and put new throttle position sensor along with the idle air control valve and it fixed most of the idle issue also new plugs wires but still runs a little rich at idle.. now the only things left is the coolant temp and map sensor.
I gas coming out my tail pipe on a 92 s 10 chevy
Forgot to mention tbi unit runs at 11-13 psi I bought an inline test kit with various fittings and a Gauge from O'Reilly auto parts that can be screwed inline at your fuel filter on the passenger side frame rail. Summit racing offers an adjustable fuel regulator that installs on the back of your tbi unit where the diaphragm is housed it has a knob that screw in or out for more or less fuel. I personally never bought that kit since psi was 12. After 36 years of screwing with that truck I finally went to a carb but saved tbi/ egr manifold and distributor and did not cut anything off wire harness
you know of any good videos to swap to carb? what intake, carb, and pressure regulator did you use?
@@markhumphrey6016 summit racing non-egr manifold part# sum-226061 for chevy 262-400 eng. Years 1955-95 $184.00 edelbrock 1406 carb $428.00 part# EDL-1406 Holly bypass fuel pressure regulator part# HLY-12-881 it has inlet/outlet and 1/8" gauge port $69.00 . Summit fuel pressure gauge 0-30 psi part #sum-800136 $32.00 summit aluminum inline fuel filter part # sum-230100 size -6AN fitting $29.00 used Russell proflex fuel hose 10 ft. $66.99 plus fuel line adapters are AN-6 to metric O-Ring fittings if you go the stainless covered hose route like I did or save time by cutting your metal fuels to use rubber hose and clamps. You will need a new HEI distributor also, I bought a summit brand. Don't hack your computer harness to the old distributor up, on the distributor plug you will need to splice into the purple wire of that 4 prong plug so your fuel pump operates with key on/off excess fuel travels back to fuel tank via bypass regulator to return line. Koul tool kit or single fitting assembly tool part #KTS-6 for assembling -6AN hoses. Look at summit racing online catalog 2023
@@markhumphrey6016 forgot to ask if your truck is a 90's model you will have to use a holly carburetor with a TPS sensor attached on the electric choke of the carburetor to shift your computer controlled transmission, mine is a 1987 chevy 4x4 with a 700r4 transmission that uses a TV cable to shift therefor I didn't need to use the holley carb setup which summit racing also sells if neeed.
I just wish I had a reliable vehicle. She has to go somewhere and I get stuck at home. Grrr.. I want to go out and do stuff to.....
O
That engine is a MESS! 😬
Looks like a rats nest under there.
You don't know squate
seems like you dont either considering ur searching up how to diag ur truck lol!!
You’re saying the coolant temperature sensor tells the engine how hot to get?? Sounds like bullshit
In saying the coolant temp sensor senses how warm or cold the coolant is to therefor regulate how rich or lean to regulate the fuel sir. Speak b4 u know
Tour comment here made me subscribe. Lol gearheads should always hug into the theory of how components work within their system and together with others. Be open to information at the same time diagnose your problems as your own. When I get stuck I just watch random videos to wrap away from my project and let them gears in my head get lubes up and start moving again. Goin down that line if troubleshooting. Your my kinda a guy someone I orolky drink a beer with open a hood and shoot the shit. I enjoyed your video thank you but this remark is what made me have to subscribe. Damn trolls keep that ba to yourselves speak information and have conversations but dont be narrow minded we all came here for information. And you look like a complete idiot rn . I call bs u ever popped a hood or changed a tire
@@rednecklife55 don't need to be like that in your video your comment you made was that it regulated how hot or cold the engine got maybe describing something in a clear manner would cause less confusion....... when what you ment to say sends a single to help the engine determine whether to add more or less gas pending it being hot or cold
@@TheAirforce14 if you knew then why even say anything lol. U obviously are trying to find out something by watch a diag video
@@davidnewman4765 thank you bub!!!