Here’s a tip, when hanging base if you are right handed go anti clockwise around the room. That way you are always cutting on your scribed joint on the right. I’ve been a carpenter for over 30 years and I promise this will save you a ton of time.
@@babukatv6923 for a square room I would start on the wall with the door. You have 2 square cuts typically, then hang the base board or skirting board in the UK anti clockwise around the room. This way you will only need to cut the scribe on the right end of the board until you get to the last wall. That will require a scribe on both ends. Cut this board slightly long and squeeze it in. This will make the joints tight both ends. Hope that helps. If you facing the door the next board you will hang will be on the left.
@@MaxRank that’s very helpful and informative, thank you. On the last skirting board you install you say make it slightly longer, how much longer roughly would u recommend in Millimetres
@@danielmclaughlin5194 I wouldn’t go longer than 5mm. On plaster board walls if you go longer and sometimes at 5mm you will break the tape joint in the corner of the room. Never cut the skirting long against door linings, this can push over the lining and cause the door to bind.
Great video.. Had a nice honey-do project, putting up 2 murphy beds, which required removal of the existing baseboard. This video gave me all the confidence needed, to cut my baseboards and fit them nicely beside the beds. You even answered my question to paint them prior to install and they came out great!! Thank you kindly!! 😁
Hi nice video! I prepainted (sprayed) my trim in my garage and they look great. How do you go about filling and then painting those holes if you don’t want to mask off and spray again. Any tips or secrets to hiding those dots of paint?
Do you also caulk over where the nails/staples went in? I didn’t paint my baseboard before installing😩 I can also see where the nails went in. Can I caulk along the top even though we just painted the walls too? Or will I have repaint by the trim? Sorry for all the questions, I’m new at home diys
If you scribe your base to the floor it'll be professional. Use tape to hold your outside miters together when you run your pencil. After you cut and sand you can then CA glue your outside miters. I'm not a CA glue guy, I like wood glue as it has better holding power. CA glue is a bit brittle IMO.
One trick for your field seams is to nail through the miter/both parts of the miter, but make sure the piece on the right is a paper or 2 proud of the left side before nailing. Then with a scrap piece of base pound it into flush. With nails and wood glue it'll be perfect and never open up.
Use "Painter's Putty" for the nail holes. It doesn't shrink. Don't use spackle. (It dries concave) Roll the Painter's Putty into a quarter size ball, press firmly into the brad hole with your thumb as you run your spackle knife between your thumb and baseboard. This cuts the putty off for a perfect fill. Finnish up with a little touch-up paint. Good luck!
Quick question: why do coping rather than simply mitre cut both pieces at a 45* angle? Cutting both pieces at a 45 leave you without a gap and takes a whole lot less time . . . I just want to understand why you’d choose to cope over a mitre. I apologize if I missed it during the video.
Great video! Only issue I saw was pushing in the base with your thumb right on the corner where you're nailing. That nail can turn and go through your thumb. I found that out from experience!
Excellent tip on coping after first cutting with chop saw most of the cut. Outside corners 46 degrees, inside corners 44 degrees due to mud buildup. Popsicle sticks as shims for perfect fit. Also try cutting with baseboard upside down. For some baseboard profiles, the fit is better when cut upside down. Fast curing glue with activator is a great tip. Thanks.
I was struggling to figure out how to explain this in text but I found the video that will explain the inversion rule when it comes to miter cuts. ruclips.net/video/Ca0PRZ6ki8M/видео.htmlsi=Mc0OuWQgu9_5Knps
I like to use a small bucket of water to rinse my finger of the excess caulking. I use a wet towel to wipe off any remaining excess caulking after initially using my finger to wipe off caulking because over time, the thin film of caulking spread by the finger over unintended areas tend to darken over time.
Thank you, very helpful and I see we both have a little OCD lol I'm really just a perfectionist. If you're gonna do it, do it right! Always how I felt. That's how you get quality.
Hi remodeller here. I don’t know why you do the straight cut last. You should cut the mitre last always. And you measure it by butting the straight part on the wall or door casing and pencil the mitre and cut from the pencil line. And if you are doing coping corners. You are going to need a jigsaw or a grinder with a sanding blade. Finish carpentry has more in depth videos about this.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! My OCD stays in high gear 😁 Have to make it right, keep it real. I've always said, "Do it right, or just don't do it!" ✌️
No matter what you do you still need to use silicone to hide the small gaps cause not all walls are close to being perfect. Plus I think it would take more time with using little saw for the inner corners. For someone doing the whole house, you be there the whole day or two.
Great video - I'm helping out a friend and your tips make me look like a professional (or at least shows I know what I'm doing). You explained it very simple and concise. Thanks!
Great video. You introduced many new concepts here. You and I should go have a beer and chase fat girls together but I'm a carpenter but not a finish carpenter so seeing your brilliance was something I needed to see. Best wishes and hit me up on my proposal!
It is okay for DIY to use super glue in his own house because it is easier to get good looking joint. However, professionals should not and do not need to use super glue because it is not nearly good as wood glue. it is brittle and dose not last. it has tendency to break over time specially if the joint put under tension or has some movement such a door case. I have seen it several times
When you run your finger to smooth out caulk, instead of wiping on a wet rag, use that caulk on your finger to fill nail holes. Then use wet rag or sponge to clean any remaining caulk around nail holes.
I’ve been installing for 45 years for multiple interior decorators and designers, ALWAYS turned out perfect filling nail holes with caulk. Matches white baseboards and no need to paint.
If the nail hole is small enough why not just fill it with what you have to work with? I didn't have any of those at the moment and was too anxious to wait so I filled the hole with cooked rice. Just smashed the ruce and filled the hole, wait for it to dry, smooth it out if needed and paint. Looks fine to me. Lol
Good job on the cope. I have remodeled a house and just cannot master the cope. Guess I do not have the patience and it is counterintuitive to my finishing skills.
My house has no corners it's round only lol.. I wish mine was like this only 45 degree are inside walls outside walls has a round corner prob Incase you trip into it won't hurt vs a sharp corner
At 8:50 why was there a gap in the outside part of the miter? It was glued together before it was installed, yes? So it should have been a perfectly tight miter. What happened?
You're using low density MDF and it isn't sealed/primed on all sides. It gets the job done but it's not built to last. Unfortunately it's how nearly every company installs skirting nowadays. Good quality seems impossible to find. For extra hints I do find Robin Clevett's channel very useful.
Great video but doesn't work in real life unless you get paid hourly or you doing it in your house. Baseboard takes around 7-9 minutes to cut and I finish caulking a whole room in about 5 minutes. But still great for beginners
Tip when you are nailing low base boards, stud finder is a waste of time. An inch off the sub floor has a stud running all the way down. ( only need stud finder for high boards)
Just sent a home a contractor inwas using $50 a hour im like u knownhow to do laminate flooring its a technique bc i cant figure it out and im pretty handy it keeps clipping out bc the floor anit even i caught his ass on you tube trying to learn it i said yup not on my $
Very good video. Question - when measuring for an inside corner and planning on coping, is the coped board measured to the edge of the board already in place? Or, measured to the wall so the top of the cope would meet the wall? I hope that makes sense!
The short piece that's sitting on the short wall you said that it would have caved in if you didn't glue them together that's not true you could have put a shim in the top in that Gap a tiny shim problem solved.
Hi! Caulking is used for gap filling and aesthetic purposes. If you are not going to use nails to secure the baseboard, you need to use construction adhesive. 👍🏽😊
What?! Professional? Professionals know that if you have a seam in the baseboard you have to put glue on it so it don't break, also the seam has to be on top of a stud to make sure it doesn't move!
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Wow!! I just learned a lot about cutting the corners the saw turning it around and coping saw!! Best video
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
What do you do to cover the nail holes?
a jigsaw with a good blade works well also
Here’s a tip, when hanging base if you are right handed go anti clockwise around the room. That way you are always cutting on your scribed joint on the right. I’ve been a carpenter for over 30 years and I promise this will save you a ton of time.
For a square room lets say starting from bottom and go right?
@@babukatv6923 for a square room I would start on the wall with the door. You have 2 square cuts typically, then hang the base board or skirting board in the UK anti clockwise around the room. This way you will only need to cut the scribe on the right end of the board until you get to the last wall. That will require a scribe on both ends. Cut this board slightly long and squeeze it in. This will make the joints tight both ends. Hope that helps.
If you facing the door the next board you will hang will be on the left.
@@MaxRank that’s very helpful and informative, thank you. On the last skirting board you install you say make it slightly longer, how much longer roughly would u recommend in Millimetres
@@danielmclaughlin5194 I wouldn’t go longer than 5mm. On plaster board walls if you go longer and sometimes at 5mm you will break the tape joint in the corner of the room. Never cut the skirting long against door linings, this can push over the lining and cause the door to bind.
@@MaxRank thank you brother
Simple explanation for beginners. Keep these coming.
Great video.. Had a nice honey-do project, putting up 2 murphy beds, which required removal of the existing baseboard. This video gave me all the confidence needed, to cut my baseboards and fit them nicely beside the beds. You even answered my question to paint them prior to install and they came out great!! Thank you kindly!! 😁
Hi nice video! I prepainted (sprayed) my trim in my garage and they look great. How do you go about filling and then painting those holes if you don’t want to mask off and spray again. Any tips or secrets to hiding those dots of paint?
Nail holes should be caulked after the joints, small dab with the gun than wipe with your finger
The glue is the goods. Thanks for that pointer
Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Do you also caulk over where the nails/staples went in? I didn’t paint my baseboard before installing😩 I can also see where the nails went in. Can I caulk along the top even though we just painted the walls too? Or will I have repaint by the trim? Sorry for all the questions, I’m new at home diys
A+ how to! Thank you!!
Why Glue do you recommend for gluing baseboard to the wall ? Also a tool that doesn't require an air hose for nailing it to the wall? Thank you!
If you scribe your base to the floor it'll be professional. Use tape to hold your outside miters together when you run your pencil. After you cut and sand you can then CA glue your outside miters. I'm not a CA glue guy, I like wood glue as it has better holding power. CA glue is a bit brittle IMO.
Thank you for the tip! I did make a video scribing it to the floor 👍🏽😊 here it is :
m.ruclips.net/video/NcAMWrqwzDU/видео.html
Thanks. I could tell this was not the most efficient way on the video and there were some alternatives.
Yeah if you wanna look like a hack job… lol
One trick for your field seams is to nail through the miter/both parts of the miter, but make sure the piece on the right is a paper or 2 proud of the left side before nailing. Then with a scrap piece of base pound it into flush. With nails and wood glue it'll be perfect and never open up.
It's hard to understand your explanation my friend
Never caulk nail holes caulking shrinks and you’ll see the hole after a few weeks…use putty and then paint the holes and 🕳️ won’t be visible
- Miter Saw With Precision Laser is unavailable on amazon. Can you please give more info on your - Miter Saw With Precision Laser
3.13..... that joint is not crisp and clean like you say 😮
I’m OCD where can I hire an OCD floor installer.
Are you genoevo9? Your voice sounds very familiar?
Yes that’s me! 👍🏽👊🏽😎
What size and gage nails do you use?
If you're using construction adhesive you can use 18g nails, I'd toe nail them. No glue I'd use 15g.
A little caulk and a little paint makes a carpenter what he aint.
Is this guy TechLead talking?
“When the OCD kicks in” - so relatable 🤣.
🤣
Always cut longest pieces first, the cut offs will do the smaller stuff.
Great idea, thanks
Instead of marking for all the upright studs why not just nail only 1/2in up and it nails it right into the bottom seal plate of the wall
Use "Painter's Putty" for the nail holes. It doesn't shrink. Don't use spackle. (It dries concave)
Roll the Painter's Putty into a quarter size ball, press firmly into the brad hole with your thumb as you run your spackle knife between your thumb and baseboard. This cuts the putty off for a perfect fill. Finnish up with a little touch-up paint. Good luck!
Doesn’t it just get painted over? Sorry I’m new to this.
@@haydenaho9396i think it's hard to paint over a metal nail head. Its hard to cover
Quick question: why do coping rather than simply mitre cut both pieces at a 45* angle? Cutting both pieces at a 45 leave you without a gap and takes a whole lot less time . . . I just want to understand why you’d choose to cope over a mitre. I apologize if I missed it during the video.
When you're marking baseboard don't use a tick mark, scribe the wall on the back of the baseboard.
Great video! Only issue I saw was pushing in the base with your thumb right on the corner where you're nailing. That nail can turn and go through your thumb. I found that out from experience!
Excellent tip on coping after first cutting with chop saw most of the cut.
Outside corners 46 degrees, inside corners 44 degrees due to mud buildup. Popsicle sticks as shims for perfect fit.
Also try cutting with baseboard upside down. For some baseboard profiles, the fit is better when cut upside down.
Fast curing glue with activator is a great tip. Thanks.
I was struggling to figure out how to explain this in text but I found the video that will explain the inversion rule when it comes to miter cuts.
ruclips.net/video/Ca0PRZ6ki8M/видео.htmlsi=Mc0OuWQgu9_5Knps
I like to use a small bucket of water to rinse my finger of the excess caulking. I use a wet towel to wipe off any remaining excess caulking after initially using my finger to wipe off caulking because over time, the thin film of caulking spread by the finger over unintended areas tend to darken over time.
Thank you, very helpful and I see we both have a little OCD lol I'm really just a perfectionist. If you're gonna do it, do it right! Always how I felt. That's how you get quality.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
You explained it so much better than a lot of the videos I have been watching! Thank you!!
Thank you so much for the love and feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Hi remodeller here. I don’t know why you do the straight cut last. You should cut the mitre last always. And you measure it by butting the straight part on the wall or door casing and pencil the mitre and cut from the pencil line. And if you are doing coping corners. You are going to need a jigsaw or a grinder with a sanding blade. Finish carpentry has more in depth videos about this.
This is a *DIY video
@@whith5184 on the title it says "like a professional". So I'm chiming in what is common practice out in the field.
The best baseboard install video I've seen, super informative, I'm doing mines in a couple weeks. This video helps me feel more confident about it
I cope with a Dremel tool using a drum sander bit. Works for me. 👍
Thank you for the tip Jim! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you for saying that I was just wondering if I can use my dremel instead 😂
Nice! I got a drum sander 12 years ago and have been wondering what to do with it. :)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
My OCD stays in high gear 😁
Have to make it right, keep it real.
I've always said, "Do it right, or just don't do it!"
✌️
No matter what you do you still need to use silicone to hide the small gaps cause not all walls are close to being perfect. Plus I think it would take more time with using little saw for the inner corners. For someone doing the whole house, you be there the whole day or two.
100%
Never use silicone if you want to paint. It's lousy caulk except for water areas, tub sink etc
You should glue the field seams.
Same
Hi! Could you cope the smaller board and kept the longer board end straight? It would be easier to handle.
Great video - I'm helping out a friend and your tips make me look like a professional (or at least shows I know what I'm doing). You explained it very simple and concise. Thanks!
Great video. You introduced many new concepts here. You and I should go have a beer and chase fat girls together but I'm a carpenter but not a finish carpenter so seeing your brilliance was something I needed to see. Best wishes and hit me up on my proposal!
what,It's very ugly....just use white Construction adhesive and thats,easy and beautiful work
I learned so much. Thank you for these great tips! You're a lifesaver😊😊
I’m glad 🙂 I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
It is okay for DIY to use super glue in his own house because it is easier to get good looking joint. However, professionals should not and do not need to use super glue because it is not nearly good as wood glue. it is brittle and dose not last. it has tendency to break over time specially if the joint put under tension or has some movement such a door case. I have seen it several times
When you run your finger to smooth out caulk, instead of wiping on a wet rag, use that caulk on your finger to fill nail holes. Then use wet rag or sponge to clean any remaining caulk around nail holes.
You should never fill nail holes with caulking, only putty
I’ve been installing for 45 years for multiple interior decorators and designers, ALWAYS turned out perfect filling nail holes with caulk. Matches white baseboards and no need to paint.
If the nail hole is small enough why not just fill it with what you have to work with? I didn't have any of those at the moment and was too anxious to wait so I filled the hole with cooked rice. Just smashed the ruce and filled the hole, wait for it to dry, smooth it out if needed and paint. Looks fine to me. Lol
@@dalerogers4323 people like you have no business filling holes nor painting
Professional painter here. Never use caulk to fill nail holes. Use painters putty and or spackling
Good job on the cope. I have remodeled a house and just cannot master the cope. Guess I do not have the patience and it is counterintuitive to my finishing skills.
My house has no corners it's round only lol.. I wish mine was like this only 45 degree are inside walls outside walls has a round corner prob Incase you trip into it won't hurt vs a sharp corner
Don't you caulk the gap between the baseboard and the floor? That's where cockroaches come in or hide in.
Key part. Have a mitersaw. But I learned to cut from the top of bb not while it's laying flat down. And to 45 even on the straight to straight bb.
How do you hide those nails?
You can use white wood filler : amzn.to/3o2RPVf
Its been a while since I done trim, how do you guys cover the nail marks on white trim? Just touch up paint or that calk?
Lol says OCD kicks in but with close inspection your caulk lines arent even. Nice work otherwise.
А еще этот «профессионал» не знаком с малярной лентой и наждачной бумагой. Герметик пальцем…
I wish I'd seen this before we started our baseboards... Such a good technique.
At 8:50 why was there a gap in the outside part of the miter? It was glued together before it was installed, yes? So it should have been a perfectly tight miter. What happened?
44° on inner corners and 46° on outside corners.
Hi thanks for the video. What type of baseboard is that? Mdf or pvc or wood?
You're using low density MDF and it isn't sealed/primed on all sides.
It gets the job done but it's not built to last.
Unfortunately it's how nearly every company installs skirting nowadays. Good quality seems impossible to find.
For extra hints I do find Robin Clevett's channel very useful.
Kardeşim bunu türkçeden çevir sen türkiyede böyle iş yaparsan o tabancayı bi yerine sokarlar
Great video but doesn't work in real life unless you get paid hourly or you doing it in your house. Baseboard takes around 7-9 minutes to cut and I finish caulking a whole room in about 5 minutes. But still great for beginners
Tip when you are nailing low base boards, stud finder is a waste of time. An inch off the sub floor has a stud running all the way down. ( only need stud finder for high boards)
Just sent a home a contractor inwas using $50 a hour im like u knownhow to do laminate flooring its a technique bc i cant figure it out and im pretty handy it keeps clipping out bc the floor anit even i caught his ass on you tube trying to learn it i said yup not on my $
When you are cutting your cope, another time saver vs. the coping saw is a cordless Dremel type rotary tool after cutting that straight part. 😉
Wow!! I just learned a lot about cutting the corners the saw turning it around and coping saw!! Best video
That caulk sucks. Takes forever to dry. Use phenoseal.
Very good video.
Question - when measuring for an inside corner and planning on coping, is the coped board measured to the edge of the board already in place? Or, measured to the wall so the top of the cope would meet the wall? I hope that makes sense!
Scribed boards are measured from the flat face of the base.
Tried installing my first baseboard without any supervision today. I know I did it wrong so here I am lol. I’m still training at work.
Absolutely beautiful work. I love your perfection…sub added. Thank you for sharing your expertise in your videos.
Better to use medium or thick CA glue and spray with MDF. MDF likes to absorb moisture quickly
Excelente video! Claro y preciso .Gracias.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
I seriously wish I had seen this before we were more than half done with our downstairs! At least I have the knowledge for the upstairs. Thanks!
No problem! I wish you well on your project! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
ALL good finish carpenters have a bit of OCD! You're not alone, my friend.
Nice video I have watched a lot of video on cutting baseboards this was one of the best I just got it this. Thanks so much
What size of gun and nail did you use thank you brother
Didn't think we'd notice the caulk at 6:43 lol. Well done.
Is there a way to install it without the nails being visible? Cuz in my opionion it ruins the decoration..
The short piece that's sitting on the short wall you said that it would have caved in if you didn't glue them together that's not true you could have put a shim in the top in that Gap a tiny shim problem solved.
Could have used a screw driver trick for outside corner
Это профессионал?! На гвозди к стене?
Do you use caulking under the base boards too?
In old houses your going to have to fill the gap. The walls are always uneven.
I use Compound 90, and wipe it off with a sponge.
Why was caulking not used behind the baseboard when placing it up against wall???
Hi! Caulking is used for gap filling and aesthetic purposes. If you are not going to use nails to secure the baseboard, you need to use construction adhesive. 👍🏽😊
I wouldn't paint until after you fill the the nail holes with mud, not caulk
Thank you for your feedback
What?! Professional? Professionals know that if you have a seam in the baseboard you have to put glue on it so it don't break, also the seam has to be on top of a stud to make sure it doesn't move!
Watch the video again 👍🏽😊
what is the length of the nails ? 1.5 " or 2" ?
OCD, lol, I feel you man.
how do you repair that 45 degree cut on those 2 pieces on the long wall?
Stay tuned! I’ll make a video on that 👍🏽😊
How about on concrete if the wall is not straight
6:43 That cornes has without a doubt been caulked. Nice video though. 😊
This is the best diy baseboard installation tutorial 👍
Great job 😃
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
ruclips.net/video/U1fbyJ2nEg8/видео.html i hear ya, brother..
another excellent comprehensive video of yours. well done!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Your miter was nice but look at the fucking gap at the door facing hahahaha
Use a small cup with dish soap and warm
Water it helps it come off super easy
Having some ocd is a good thing I wish I had a little more but not too much beautiful job great vid thank you
SOOOO COOL😉👍 amzing tip and extremely helpful - Love it! ❤ Thank you!!!✨
"Save you time to not have to cope this" ..... pulls out a coping saw. Lol
I never mark my studs, and never had any problems, still stays.
Looks like a little camera trickery at 6:42. You caulked the inside corner.
Excellent post, thank you for sharing.
我们是一家专业从事挤出塑胶产品
3:46... bad place for your thumb...