Removing rusty / stuck rear axle in BMW E61 using Harbor Freight Tools (axle was bad as they get)
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- A detailed (and painfully long) blow-by-blow description of the methods I used to get a VERY rusty axle out of my BMW E61 (530xi Touring), though the principle is the same for many other cars.
This axle is worse than 98% other axles, and required a LOT of effort. Without access to "shop grade" tools, I resorted to picking up some tools from Harbor Freight, which actually worked well in this case. This includes a 10-ton hydraulic puller, and an electric impact wrench with 1050 ft/lbs of removal torque (and as you will see, I needed all that).
This removal was done as part of a rear suspension refresh, which includes replacing the upper control arms, lower "wishbone" bushings, axle bearings, and upper control arm eccentric bolts (due to breakage). The remainder of the job will be included on a separate (hopefully shorter!) video.
If you're not doing the entire suspension, you may be able to leave the axle attached at the differential (I removed mine...), though you'll have to unbolt enough components to move the knuckle out to allow the axle to be swung out of the way to allow access to the bearing bolts (accessed from behind, and they're obscured by the axle's rubber boot).
Please subscribe to my channel if these videos are helping you keep your car running... thanks!
That's the toughest removal I've watched so far on the tube, and I've watched a few. You're a very patient man, I'd have been throwing tools around the yard!!
I've done a lot of "normal" axles before without drama, but these were ridiculous. I ended up using a n inductive heater on the hub of the first front axle, and that did help. I was going to do a video of that process for the other front axle, but it came loose with "only" the 10-ton puller.
Two weeks ago I was removing an axle in a 1996 E36, and I had to remove the whole rocker arm, soak the half-axle in oil for 4days until I could take it out
@@S7midnight I sprayed penetrating lube (PB Blaster) on my axles and hubs for a few days in advance, though it didn't do too much.
@@Mark_H_DIY i sprayed tons of wd40, but it did nothing. I placed the rocker arm so that the outer part was facing upwards and poured down some engine oil. After 4days I removed it with a small hammer, even though I'd tried a 20ton press to no effect before 🤯🤯
Just came across this video, as I'm encountering a similar scenario on my E82. This truly helped me understand what I'd gotten myself in to. I've broken three puller tools already trying to get just one of the damn axles to budge. I almost bought a hydraulic unit like the one used here... but after watching this through, and seeing all that's involved, I took a moment to reflect on my DIY skill set. I'd already planned to replace the axle shafts, bearings and hubs on my car. So, after weighing my options, budget, and cost to my personal mental/physical health... I said to myself screw that! And resourced a brand new pair of rear knuckles. Thank you for the valuable insights!
I fully understand. I'm cheap, but I'm also lazy... ;-) Your approach is a valid one considering all the items you are replacing. I did once but a front knuckle because the pinch bolt was frozen solid, but when I got it, I realized that it was destroyed during removal, and the bearing was totally shot. Turned out that my impact hammer (used in this video) drove it out surprisingly easy.
I’m a retired BMW specialist and I found the easiest way to deal with this problem was to buy a complete second hand hub and driveshaft assembly from BMW breakers. I changed many.
There's no doubt that I would have saved time doing it that way, since I have replaced pretty much everything. I did want to do new bearings, so would have had to get an axle out eventually but if it wasn't one rusted solid to the hub, it would have been a win.
Thanks for your comment.
I'm calling a salvage yard tomorrow just in case.👍
Crazy brother! Good job. What I like about this video is:
1. everything is explained so well
2. it shows reality how rusty and how hard things comes off
3. You say some tips and tricks!
Thank you!
Pain really does love company lol
What a bloody painful job! Glad you finally managed to get it out!
Just used this same tool on my 2010 Infinity QX56 on the rear. Had to replace the hub bearing and the axle would NOT come out. Your tips worked perfectly - pull, heat, hit / repeat. On the third try it let loose and sounded like a gunshot.
Thanks for the tips!
Happily, most cars use the same concepts in construction, so the same violence can be used to take them apart as well. Congratulations on a successful job. Glad the video helped.
Lessons learned:
Use anti-seize. Great job and very detailed explanation.
I'm pretty sure that the previous owner never pulled those axles, so they'd been rusting since 2006. I use plain old grease, but then again I live in Arizona and could probably get away with reassembling them dry without fear of rust. :-)
@@Mark_H_DIY awesome solving problem mate. I live in Chicago area and I dont get ran out of antiseize
Did they grease the axle in 2006? factory made?
@@hlq2action310 On the BMWs I have done, the fit is so tight that adding copper anti seize will make it impossible to insert the shaft!
People like you win wars👍🏴 Fantastic video. Real life scenario here in Scotland when working on BMW's. Thanks.
Thanks! Sorry to hear that my situation is "normal" in Scotland... I've sworn off future cars that haven't spent their entire life in the US desert southwest after these axles. Coincidentally, I just ordered new axles, but swapping them out should be trivial this time!
@@Mark_H_DIY My plan on my daughters e61 535d is to replace the rear axles and rear wheel bearings and hubs. So I'll just cut the driveshafts. Remove the ebrake/ handbrake shoes and grind/cut the e14 hub bolts from the outside. I used this brutal method before due to heavy corrosion and it works a treat. 👍
@@williwonkah.9242 Wow... Makes the way I did it sound like brain surgery. Will grinding the bolts extending through the knuckle allow unbolting the hub / bearing "easy"? My recollection is that I couldn't reach the four E14 bolt heads with the axle in place, but maybe with the axle cut you can wiggle around the outer CV joint. And that E-brake cable is very different than the sedan. I couldn't find good info online, but added that to the other video I did on the rest of the job (bushings, control arms, bearings, etc.). Good luck on that job!
wow. The level of patience. I would have replaced the whole knuckle assembly + the shaft after 20 minutes in. But I can understand -- sometimes I don't let it win over me either. I will break everything until I get that part removed.
When I first got the car, the pinch bolt that held on the front knuckle was rusted solid, and I ordered a used one. It ended up being in such bad shape that I decided it was going to be easier to salvage the original one, which I did using an air chisel to drive out that rusted bolt. The whole thing was certainly learning experience, and I've got some tools that might make it a bit easier next time, though I never, ever, ever plan to buy a car from the Frozen North again. ;-)
Seriously was thinking the same thing. Guy is so calm and had patients till the end of times.
Very nice video! I just sent the old lady to Harbor Freight to pick up the exact same puller -- before I found your video. I'm hoping it will do the trick. I'm doing the 3rd hub bearing on my 98 Subaru Legacy -- the front was finger loose, the first rear took all I could crank on a 2 jaw puller with all the link bolts bent under the strain, then applying heat and pounding on the end of the puller bolt with a 4lb mallet. Now I'm working on the other rear bearing and I snapped the big bolt on an 8" 3 jaw puller. I have a California car with 0 rust & 188K. I think what happens to bind up the splines is that grease leaks out of the bearing, runs into the splines & bakes on like Loctite. There was 0 rust on the other rear axle spline -- but it was coated with a dark brown varnish. I was really glad to find your video because it's the exact sane tool, exact same predicament. Hope it works.
Funny that you'd only have one axle with the problem, but hey - salt isn't always equally spread over everything I guess. FWIW, I had three horrible (!!!) axles on my BMW, and one that came loose with "just the 10-ton puller". Kind of disappointing actually, since I was going to make another video showing how to heat the hub with an induction heater to save time (and propane). ;-) Good luck with your job - let us know how it goes...
@@Mark_H_DIY Got it done with that 10 ton beast & a torch (this was my 08 Subaru Legacy). Your video was very helpful -- also showed me what I was doing wrong on the other rear axle with heat. The first/other rear came out with a great deal of hammering on the bolt-type jaw puller & misapplied heat. I've done 3 of 4 bearings now -- and it was only the rears that seized up like that -- but not from rust -- it's from a baked on black residue that wouldn't even let me get the new bearing on until I ran a Dremel cut off wheel down each spline groove to clean that hard black residue off. Even a screwdriver couldn't scrape it off. I was having a very hard time getting the 3 jaws to stay put while aligning the press with the axle until I wrapped a bungee cord around the 3 jaws.
@geeder9086 Nice tip on the bungee cord. I was able to get the puller arms to stick on my BMW without it, but I can see where that would help a lot. And congratulations on a successful completion. I know that the Subaru bearings are a bear after working on my son's Subaru.
@@Mark_H_DIYI had no idea what I was in for. I figured that with zero rust there would be no issues getting the splines to slip through -- not so on either of the rears. The one front one I did just took thumb pressure to push the shaft through the splines -- and that's what I expected for the rear. The hubs were not rusted into the knuckle of the backing plate on mine -- so at least that part was no problem. The contaminant on the splines seems like black ceramic had been bonded to the steel.
@@geeder9086 Had the bearings gotten really hot? Maybe the black gunk was grease or brake fluid that got baked to a varnish? FWIW my current car is a Mercedes that has been in Arizona it's whole life (the front axles pressed out with finger pressure)... pure bliss! ;-) Even so I just picked up a bigger air chisel, just in case!
What a great video! I just picked up the HF hydraulic puller and I’m going to see if I can get the axle out on my wife’s BMW X3 so I can replace the wheel bearing. Thanks for the helpful video! I hope 🤞🏻 I get lucky like you and get it out.
@@1972davidt good luck. Hope it's easier than mine was...
@@Mark_H_DIYwell I ended up having to take the entire rear control bar thing off and pressed the axle out using a shop press with a 12 ton jack and 10 minutes from a mapp gas cylinder and about 50 whacks from a 3 lb sledge hammer! But it is all back together now.
that was absolutely superb! this video is as real as real gets. i just went through the absolute pain in the ass of a job this is on my own e60 (rwd) and i can relate to every second of this video! well done!
It's true what they say - pain really DOES love company! ;-) Thanks for the kind words.
@@Mark_H_DIY u not wrong , sir! lol! thank u for an excellent video by the way
Just went through this myself. Seized axle and hub. I laughed out loud at the end when you said “piece of cake”! Hahaha
Nice to have a sense of humor after all of that!
It was that or curl up in a fetal position and sob... ;-)
Persistence overcomes resistance.
I now know I'm not the only one 😂😂😂😂 Excellent work.
Followed you just because you are calm
LOL.. Thanks for that. I might have edited out a few less calm bits... ;-)
You didnt have to use the socket as an adapter. The long shiney tube has threading so that you can spin that black nut down to the bottom so that you have the proper space from the beginning.
I think your puller is different than mine. Mine does have threading at the end, but only to add a conical tip. As it turned out, using the socket worked out well, since it allowed using the second socket to allow using the air chisel (the straw that broke the camel's back). ;-)
@@Mark_H_DIY nope same one. The huge silver shaft has threading on it with a huge nut at the top.
Are you talking about the threaded body (with the nut being the part the arms attach to)? I had that adjusted for the maximum extension (relative to the hooks) already. Threading the "nut" down the body of the shaft would only mean I'd need a longer "socket" to reach the axle.
Wow, that was a nightmare. 😎
You have the gift of understatement 😅
Get a Milwaukee m18 impact, would blast it right off and make it look easy, no heating needed. Cheapest option is a long power bar and that would give you more than enough. What you're doing will reduce the life of your bearing
Sorry, I'm not following your comment. I do have a 1,200 foot/pound impact that spun off the axle nut with ease. The Milwaukee M18 produces only 33 foot/pounds of torque. How would an impact get the axle out, and how does any removal method put less stress on the bearing (really a non-issue since I was pulling the axle to replace the bearing anyway).
I really love all your work on this my only friendly recommendation is when using your video editing software take the loud parts where you're using a lot of rattling air tools and bring the volume way down for the final render of the video!
Stick a font on the screen each time you do it with something like "Volune attenuated for your ear drums". I think way lowered but not completely muted is best or people not looking at screen might think sound went out til they realize. But either way your viewers will love you for it as we're not having to dive for the volume buttons each time you use these types of tools in your videos.
Thanks again man enjoyed all the helpful tips!
Great suggestion. I'll see if my (very) limited video editing software can handle that. ;-)
When I was a young meck a nik, I used a mallet made out of a 10 inch section of a apple tree to free aluminum wheels. Worked good on rusty drums and discs.
Then I would use a 3/4 inch air impact. I did a lot of axle and transmission work.
If that did not would work. I would a hammer wrench and a 4lb hammer that would persuade it to move..
The axle was easier. Just torque the puller down. Good ones do have a max torque listed. Tap it one the end with 1lb machinist hammer for 4 or 5 minutes and re-torque. Repeat.
If the torque does not come back it is loose.
It works without destroying anything.
Hydraulics work but tapping the end of a mechanical puller works about as good. It does takes a bit long longer and no heat is needed.
I learned this working in refineries doing shutdown repair.
Getting permission to light a torch requires a lot of paper work. For some reason they don't like open flames at ground level. Hammering is faster than chasing the paper.
Yes I believe in using some kind of penetrant on rusty bolts even if it still breaks in the end. You can only try.
Had a Axle nut that wouldn't come off. It laughed at my impact drill. I jumped up and down on my breaker bar and it didn't budge. I finally took my 3 ton floor jack and jack up the breaker bar to loosen it. I said either the bar or the nut is going to break. It finally broke but took a lot more force than I was expecting. 350lb stock torque plus rust.
That's a trick I've used before. You can add nearly unlimited torque without breaking a sweat, though use caution in case something fails catastrophically. I once lifted the rear end of my Jeep Cherokee off the stands using a stout high quality breaker bar when torquing a pinion nut with a floor jack. I guesstimated the torque at nearly 2,000 foot pounds on the nut.
I had to remove the rear trailing arm on my 2001 E46 and take it to a machine shop. It took nearly 45 tons of force to finally remove the axle from the hub. We were actually scared it was going to bend the trailing arm. I used the exact same Harbor Freight puller and it's poorly designed and it didn't budge the axle.
I suspect mine would have probably taken that kind of force to remove as well, if I hadn't used heat and the air chisel. I wouldn't really hold that against the 10-ton puller, which does a great job, as long as you don't need more than 10 tons, which is about 50 times what most people would need to extract a clean axle. :-) I couldn't find a home puller any bigger than the one I bought, so would have been forced to use a professional shop style puller, which would have probably cost 10 times what the Harbor Freight 10-ton puller cost.
excellent job! i use the turn n hit using a REAR HUB PULLER, it looks like a spider with 4 holes which aligns with lug nuts. and of course soak it up with bp blaster. also noticed u did not removed axle screws... neverthe less i loved it....could not stop the laughter....then after you put axle on through the spline you better clean all the splines once you get the threads through try to screw the Nut n use your HF tool n screw the heck out of it until you aligne the two tabs..enough said...
I would have loved to get away with just using a hefty puller, but it wasn't in the cards in this car. And yes, those splines had better be cleaned up on both surfaces before reassembling. No one wants to go through this twice! ;-)
I am in the same process but with a boat propeller shaft to remove the flange on the engine side. The nut came easy and the shaft is a 30 mm stainless, while the flang is some kind or iron. So far i used wd40, torch and a similar extractor with no luck. Haven t pushed to the limit yet, before doing some more search. Next i was thinking of a hydraulic extractor, but have to give the sbs a go
If it's a salt water boat, I'd guess that seriously stuck hardware is the norm. I'd recommend getting some PB Blaster, as it does a better job of penetration than WD40. Soak, shock and repeat.
The pointed air hammer bit doesn't have nearly the power as a flat bit. Also need more than just propane when working with rust
Pretty sure I did use a chisel tip when I got the second hub loose, but it's hard to say for sure (you can only get a short glimpse of the air tool). From that angle, it does look like a chisel tip, and I do agree that it's going to impart more "bang" than the pointy tip bit (though it's probably not that much different when you're hitting a hardened socket, since there's not much give there). FWIW, I went to an inductive heater for my front hubs, and they heated the hub (especially relative to the axle) much quicker and hotter than my wimpy propane torches (the only thing I had at the time). So yeah, more heat is better! ;-)
I served my time working on HGVs (18 wheelers). You don’t get anything done without acetylene and a sledge hammer in Scotland.
I've pretty much sworn off vehicles that have spent any time in the Frozen North anywhere. I did buy an inductive heater tool which is amazing when you have a frozen nut. I was going to do a video on that with one of my front axles, but it came out without a fight, which is a little disappointing. ;-)
What a mission , good job.
Best bet is a much bigger demolition hammer drill. I have a 20 lbs sds max drill and she managed to get my rusty van axle out of the hub after my puller, blowtorch and big ol sledge had no luck.
I actually DID use a demolition hammer / drill. I can't tell you how big it is but "it's a big one". ;-) I had high hopes that it would loosen up the axle, but all it did was make a LOT of noise. ;-) OTOH, I'm sure that it would have made short work out of most stuck axles - mine were just REALLY bad. I decided to not include that video since this video was already going to full-length feature status!
Watching your video gives me hope. I have a frozen bearing hub to a rear axle on a 08 Mazda CX-9. Thank you for your video.
Good luck! Hope it works out for you.
I have a harbour freight impact driver/ corded, and it still works after more than ten years; but I since got me a ryobi 18v impact. I will still need the corded one for heavier jobs like what you are doing now, I guess.
It's great to have both. You will need the corded one for really big tasks, like breaking the rust bond on the axle nuts, and the lighter cordless driver for 98% of the other stuff. I don't know why I waited so long to get that cordless driver but I find myself using it all the time.
I used a crows foot and axle press to do mine. Crows foot uses the lug bolts to bolt on. And then the axle is pressed out without removing the rotor. Much less time consuming and requires far less work.
I only wish I could have done it that way. Trust me, your crow's foot would have either broken or the threads would have stripped long before you got that rusted axle out of the hub. In fact, I used a slide hammer at first on the other side (which uses the same "crows foot" to attach to the hub). Broke the crow's foot without so much as a wiggle out of the axle. My axle was "about as bad as it gets", while most will release easily with MUCH less draconian measures.
@@Mark_H_DIY I live in New England. Parts get rusty here to. The crows foot is solid steel. It's pretty strong. I do understand how bad rust can get tho.
@@jamesbrown4401 Yeah - I'd never seen one this bad. Remember that I used that 10 ton puller, AND two torches (getting the hub to around 400° F) AND an air chisel to get it broken loose (and that's after many liberal applications of PB Blaster). FWIW, I got the front axle out a little easier. I still had to use the 10 ton puller and the air chisel, but used an inductive heater that got the hub up to around 350° in less than two minutes, which means that the temperature differential to the axle was better than using torches - which took a long time to heat up, of course).
Going through the same process, tell u what them mechanics in Arizona ain’t got NOTHING on us rust belt mechanics, they got it easy jaja
I absolutely agree! The only reason my BMW was such a bear was because it spent its first few years in the frozen north. I'd forgotten how much fun rust (everywhere) is, and still take off virgin bolts under my 250,000 mile 1996 Jeep (AZ car its whole life) without a second's extra effort. I've pretty much sworn off any car that hasn't spent its whole life in the desert southwest now - call me a wimp, but every time I crawl under my new desert-only cars now, I pause and smile at the shiny, rust-free expanse above me!
Great job. I hope you changed the hub assembly after all that pulling, beating and heat on it.
FWIW, I didn't change it out. The hub is way, way over-engineered and was still square and straight when I was done with it. I did get it good and hot, but not enough to hurt it from a metallurgical perspective. I also used that 10 ton puller, but that's not enough to warp the hub. It would be a good idea to check a hub for runout if there's any doubt about it.
use induction heater on axle.
I actually did that on the first front axle I swapped (which had the same issue as the rear axles). It did heat the hub up much faster, and (more importantly) kept the temperature of the axle lower, so there was more "heat delta" between the two than when using torches. I was going to show how well this worked on my "front axle video", but (funny enough) the axle I was filming came right out with "only" the 10-ton press. But yeah - those induction heaters are amazing tools, and I'll be using it in the future on these projects / videos.
I saw someone using a Bauer A/C hammer drill with a pointed chisel which worked really well driving off a frozen axal shaft from the hub. Also there are much larger more powerful air hammers that would work better than the one you have. But either way one has to admire your Tenacity. LMFIAO
I actually tried that, also using a really big, industrial size hammer drill. I don't think I included that in the video, as it was already long enough, and it didn't work. Perhaps there is one big enough to have done the job, but given how much heat and static pressure it took, I'm a little doubtful that impact alone would have worked. I'll probably never find out, since the car I have now has been in Arizona its whole life. ;-)
That's one way to fix it. LMFIAO@@Mark_H_DIY
Yeah, when I unbolted the front axles on my "new" car (2011 Mercedes GLK 350) I was able to push the axles in the hubs with my fingers. I just got back from a cross-country trip where the car was driven in snow / ice / salted roads, so it might be worse next time (unless it's very soon, in which case I'll clean and lube the splines).
I presume you'll be reassembling those parts with some grease and a new abs ring. You've put me off BMW's forever🤣!
LOL... I'm all about reusing anything I can, but the only parts I left unswapped were the axles. And of course, I've since replaced both of them as well. The end result is that my now 170,000 Mike E61 still rides and feels like a new car (though it no longer smells like one).
@@Mark_H_DIY I like your ethos, and also drive an old car that I maintain myself, however I run something simpler. A comment my dad made when I was a teenager about complcated cars having more stuff to go wrong has haunted me ever since. Over 40 years on my 22yr old car is now far more complex than the most complex cars of the early 80's. You certainly have some tenacity in not letting a job beat you. Keep up the great work!
@@neiljarvis8911 My other car is a 1996 Jeep Cherokee, with a manual transmission and no electric anything. I'll undoubtedly keep that one until I'm buried in it, and enjoy its relative simplicity, though just yesterday I did have to swap both the crank position sensor and front drive shaft. I guess no vehicles are totally of mechanical issues. ;-)
Epic battle ! 👍🇬🇧
Yes it was. What I lack in skill I make up for in stubbornness. ;-)
Excellent job, just wanted to say that I feel the air hammer would have done the job, you just need to get yourself a decent one. That puny one you were using was making a mockery of you more than anything else. It didn't have the power to break loose that flange. A Snap On BH3050 or a CP717 from Chicago Pneumatic would be your best friend. I personally have an Astro THOR, and it would have put that flange in its place in no time.
I'm all about "more destructive power"! ;-) FWIW, that little air hammer / chisel has more guts than you might imagine. I bought it after spending about an hour with a three pound sledge and chisel trying to drive a race out of my Jeep's rear differential, with no success. Literally half a second after I pulled the trigger on the air chisel, the race was flying across my garage. In fact, I'd be wary of any tool with the power to drive out the axles on my car (the first time, anyway), since I think it would be likely they'd flare (mushroom) the end of the axle if they were hitting it hard enough to reverse the effects of 15 years of rust. Maybe not, and hey - I'll look into a bigger, badder air hammer / chisel "just because" I am always up for more tools, especially bigger, more powerful, more dangerous tools! ;-)
Could you get the same effect from an electric hammer? I was in the same situation recently and have tried using a dewalt hammer but did not have the proper chisel
Bull nose chisel & Bosch Rotary Bulldog 8.5A hammer drill made it happen on my axle. I was thrilled. ruclips.net/video/9VrXUVaTRqc/видео.html
👏 very entertaining
In a comical horror-story kind of way... ;-)
a cheap induction heater would help , i bought one , its take out these driveshaft easly and same with rear axle adjust bolts,
I couldn't agree more. I actually bought one (around $200 IIRC), and used it on the the first front axle swap. It got the hub temperature up to around 400°F in two minutes, and even better, did it without heating the axle much (leading to a better temperature / size differential). I was all set to do a video showing the process on my fourth (and final!) axle removal when the car surprised me by letting the axle push out with only my 10-ton press. Sigh. But I absolutely do think the induction heater would have made the removal of those rusted bolts MUCH easier, and I'm glad to have the induction heater in my arsenal of tools... I never, ever mind paying for tools, given the cost of having someone else work on my BMW! ;-)
@@Mark_H_DIY Ibought one after i filled up my little acetylen tube 5L and payed 150 dollars for it, the induction heater is also very good to take old nail and screws out from old wood
Heating up Iron to red reduces the oxygen in the FeO,FeO is softest and FeO4 is hardest,
Ésto me pasó muchas veces, hay que armarse de una gran cantidad de paciencia para poder sacar eso rodamientos oxidados.
I"m both patient and cheap. About the only way to survive owning a BMW! ;-)
Merhb öncelikle başarılar diliyorum. Bundan daha kötü durumda olan bir poryayı daha önce çok düşünerek kolayca çıkardım. Bir şırıngaya hidrolik doldurun. Igne uçlu olacak ve siringayi porya miline ic kısma sıkın. Yaklasik 2 saat bekleyin. Ve hidrolik cektirmeyle 1 dk da sökülüyor. Sağlıcakla kalın
I did apply penetrating lubricant to the hub / axle interface over a day or two, and it didn't seem to help. I do recommend doing that though, since it will make most hubs release the axle much easier.
Aşırı kaynamış durumlarda malzeme tek bir parça gibi oluyor bu durumda yapacak pek birşey kalmıyor. Darbeli titreşim pası döküyor yaptığınız işlem çok güzel emekleriniz için ayrıca teşekkür ederim.
Aşırı kaynamış durumlarda malzeme tek bir parça gibi oluyor bu durumda yapacak pek birşey kalmıyor. Darbeli titreşim pası döküyor yaptığınız işlem çok güzel emekleriniz için ayrıca teşekkür ederim.
Yes, the axle splines and the hub splines had become one single piece. I've never had one close to that bad before, but at least my struggle seems to be helping people with similar issues.
Thanks again! ;-)
Tenatious !!!
7:02 RIP headphone users. Also 15:18
My video editing skills, equipment and app are a little stone-age. ;-) If it's any consolation, it was louder in my garage than in your headphones. ;-)
Just thought I'd mention it, but using a chrome vanadium socket ( as you did over the impact socket) is a bad idea on a puller. With the pressure that socket could easily of shattered.
The real stress on that socket was minimal, concentrated on the face around the flat. I was pushing it to hit it with the air chisel, but it's a pretty stout socket. ;-)
Did you have trouble putting back the axle into the hub?
Not a bit. It should go in easily if you have the hub disconnected enough to get the angle right.
you rock!
Bonjour a tous j ai la même chose avec Renault master 1 ,le garage Renault a mis loctite sur les cannelures du cardant ,même extracteur chalumeau à 2 bouteille ,on a ton change cardant, moyeu ,très bonne vidéo
Merci!
you have to heat the back of the bearing
More heat is better, but the axle doesn't actually touch the bearing anywhere. The bearing lives between the knuckle and the outside of the hub, while the axle runs through the inside of the hub. Heating the hub does indirectly also heat the bearing, of course, but I can't imagine the bearing having a major role in holding a stuck axle in place.
@xjnoise been fighting for 3 days for the same thing needed to cut and heat
Interesting - I think that it might be something of a coincidence if cutting the bearing (?) helped get the axle out of the hub, but the extra vibration and heat from the process could only have helped the axle / hub bond to release. Hope you got it done successfully!
@@Mark_H_DIY yes indeed it work fine
BMW and Harbor Freight in the same sentence?
I was never aware that they carry that monster puller. "You cheated!"
My general rule is, buy good tools for the things you use all the time. If I've wrenched fifty years without needing something, I can probably get by with a tool that's less than legacy quality. ;-) Honestly though, I've had good luck with HF's stuff in general... a few tools that clearly weren't built well, but I'm happy with that 10-ton puller. As you can see from the video, I'm glad I held out and went to a second store to keep from having to settle for the 5-ton puller (never would have gotten those axles out with that!). ;-)
@@Mark_H_DIY
Some of their items are trash, but they have come up in quality. Pittsburgh pro breaker bar, their jacks are good (Some of the original Daytona brand models were made in the same line as snap on.) I own their 3 ton, older grey low profile/long reach jack.
(I won't mention jack stands.)
Their ratchets work and have lifetime warranties. Haven't used many tools from the Bauer lineup or any Hercules.
Went through a few of their cheap warrior drills, their angle grinders work for what it's worth.
I've considered the impact used in the video, reviews were great.
Bought an air compressor instead.
Probably still be nice to have around for ease of use instead of lugging out the compressor and all of that.
Any tool used often should be of good quality. In those instances, not afraid to grab a name brand.
Shop environment...different story. Truck guy is going to clean your pockets.
Another great tool was the Milwaukee (IIRC) sawzall that would go on sale for $20. I've used and abused those beyond words. I have a decent size compressor, but find myself using that electric impact a whole lot more. It's kind of large, and unwieldy - but it DOES do well over 1,000 foot pounds of removal torque. I like the fact it's got "only" 300 foot pounds of tightening torque (coinciding nicely with the highest-torque fasteners I ever deal with, namely the axle nuts on my BMW). And I do really like the Daytona low-profile floor jack (replaces the ancient Craftsman that I used for probably 40 plus years).
Mine slid out, and I live near a beach
With axle splines, it's always the salty slush from road salt that is the problem. The only serious rust I saw when living in Florida was in the Florida Keys, but I doubt even that would cause a serious problem with the axle splines. As now I live in Arizona, where nothing rusts. On my latest car, I pushed the axles out with one finger. :-)
Juu
Rust belt states kill.
I got spoiled living in Arizona, and didn't really think about this car's history when I bought it. :-)
How much tons the hydraulic tool rated for ?
10 tons (about 900kg).
@@Mark_H_DIYthanks I go then for a 20 tones..
@@bigdeal87 Bigger IS better! ;-)
Ahhhh why didn’t we get to see the splines of the axle why it was so reluctant to move?? Honestly that was the money shot and it was a long video awww very informative otherwise.
Honestly, it didn't look any different from an axle that would come out pretty easily. You can get an idea of what the surfaces look like from the video portion where I clean the hub splines. The difference between a nominal amount of rust, and enough to freeze it up solid is pretty small, there's just not that much room between the two surfaces.
So basically i was doing right, i just needed more of everything....bigger tools, more heat and more time. Will try again
Time - if you have it - is your best friend (to allow the PB Blaster to work). And yeah, bigger tools and more violence is always good, too! I got an induction heater and used it on a front axle, and it brought the hub up to a higher temperature much faster (2 minutes), which makes for a higher heat difference between the hub and axle (so more chance of it coming off). I was going to make a video on the last axle, but it popped off with "only" the 10-ton puller.
Lol, I'm having a horrible time doing this job on my E39 at the moment. And I'm in Australia, inland. Bastard of a job
Hard to imagine any car in Oz getting rusty (especially in the outback). That's one dry country (and I live in the US desert). ;-) Good luck with the job - hope you get it done. If all else fails, get a bigger hammer!
@@Mark_H_DIY Thanks mate. I did have a go with my standard small three leg puller, but I have now ordered a big boy just like your one, along with a benzomatic refill to get some heat on the thing.
@@AdamAus85 When in doubt, use more heat and more violence! Let us know how it works out! G'day (I lived in Sydney for a couple years).
@@Mark_H_DIY Got lucky. That big ass 3 jaw puller popped it right off. I did get a new bottle of bernzomatic, but didn't end up needed it. I'm about 2.5 hours inland of the ocean, so perhaps that helped. Kudos for big ass 3 jaw hydraulic puller idea.
@@AdamAus85 Didn't see your reply until just now. Glad to hear that the puller got the job done. When I went to pick mine up, the 10-ton puller was out of stock, but they did have the 5-ton puller. I almost pulled the trigger on the smaller one, but am SO glad I didn't. Also, the puller has come in handy for a number of other tasks, like pulling / pressing in the wheel bearings when the knuckle won't fit well in my garage press. It's nice that it can be configured to a 2-arm puller as well (meaning it'll work on almost anything). Glad to hear you got that job done - still wondering why a car from inland Oz would have rusty axles like that though... I lived near the coast (Killara, NSW) and don't recall any rust anywhere on the car I had down under (a Suzuki Vitara JLX - I miss it!).
I would have cut the axle at that point and bought a new one. Then pull the hub/bearing out with the axle piece still stuck in it lol.
I think that would probably work, but with the wagon, the rear bearing bolts are much harder to get to. The outer CV joint was really in the way, though if you cut it you might be able to move it enough to work around it. The good news is, mine will come out like butter next time, should it be necessary. :-)
При виде такого инструмента. Ступицы саии будут выпадать❤
;-) The hubs should be intimidated by that 10-ton puller, but they were more stubborn than scared!
The best way to remove it. You might be need Milwaukee tools
I'd love to have a garage full of Snap-On tools, but my approach is to buy good "everyday" tools (my sockets, ratchets, wrenches), and go with "adequate" for those things I've gotten through life 'til now without needing. That 10-ton puller is a good example. Amazing tool for the money, but not the one I'd use if I was doing this for a living (now THERE is a scary thought.... shudder).
Easy!
We MAY have different definitions of that word... ;-)
Note to others... for the love of god do NOT use this method to remove a wheel hub/bearing from the knuckle, you will destroy your axle! (Edit: Note that if you're trying to remove a stuck axle spindle like in this video then yeah you want to do this, but if your axle spindle is not stuck and you are trying to remove a stuck hub from your knuckle, do not use the axle spindle as a counterforce. Sorry for the confusion).
And you would have done it... How?
@@Mark_H_DIY I'm referring to if you're trying to remove a seized hub with a puller like this, you don't want to use the axle as your counter force. If you're just trying to remove the axle because it's seized to the hub spindle then yeah use the puller. In my case I didn't have a seized axle, just the hub.
I'm not quite following - sorry. If (as in my case) you DO have a stuck (rusty) axle, I don't know how you're going to be able to avoid applying a whole lot of force to it. OTOH, assuming that the other end of the axle is loose (so there's nothing to "push against") the only part of the axle that's going to be stressed is the splined axle stub itself, which is "just a big hunk of steel". No bearings (or anything else in the axle) can be harmed by doing this - again, assuming you've dropped the axle from the differential end first. I would certainly recommend replacing the wheel bearings after applying this much heat and violence to the hub though (something I planned to do anyway). But if there is a "gentler, kinder way" to get an axle stuck as badly as mine were out of the hub, I'm willing to hear about it (and would pass it on).
@@Mark_H_DIY Yeah sorry for the confusion! I should clarify that I came to this video hoping to find a good way to remove bearing hub that was stuck on the knuckle, NOT a stuck axle. If I had fast forwarded to the middle of the video some people might mistake this for removing a stuck hub and not a stuck axle (even though the title is very clear on what is going on here). So I was just posting to warn anyone who almost did what I did, which is attempt to remove a bearing hub stuck on the knuckle by using a puller on the hub against the axle spindle (which is perfectly good and not stuck) which would probably result in breaking the axle. Sorry for the confusion. I certainly wouldn't know a better way to remove a stuck axle spindle from a hub as the puller I have worked fine for when I needed to do that a couple years ago.
Now it makes sense. Yes, a stuck hub is a very different animal, and there's no need to stress the axle (particularly since it's most likely out of the way before you get to the point you can actually pull the bearing / hub). Just for clarity, you might edit your original comment to reflect your specific concerns (instead of making it sound like someone's going to grenade their axle by pushing it through the hub). ;-) Thanks!
Wtf? Tried to undo nut security pinching?
Those can be difficult to undo. I've found that the aftermarket axle nuts tend to have a much thicker band that needs to be deformed. The original ones on my car were rusty enough that it wasn't difficult to jam a screwdriver in and bend them back out.
well crap, I live in Canada
Before (and since) buying the BMW, I'd bought cars only from the desert southwest for a while. I've never had a rusty bolt / nut on my 1996 Jeep, which still has the original exhaust at 240,000 miles (and 28 years!). This process kind of broke my desire to own cars from the frozen north... ;-)
Wear your gloves man… I’m having similar issue with the axle on a classic car
I've actually taken to wearing gloves for more and more work, but in Arizona it's so hot so much of the time that they get kind of steamy.
I honestly don't have time for a stuck axle - ugh😆
Honestly, just getting the axles loose took longer than rebuilding the rest of the suspension, including axle bearings. The only thing that made it close was some rusty bolts on the upper control arms (I hadn't bought an inductive heater yet, and ended up cutting the bolts off... With the inductive heater I may have been able to remove the bolts / nuts).
After 15:27 I would have discarded the entire car and bought a new one.
I might too, but I'm far too cheap to do something like that. ;-)
Just give that handle another pump or two it will break free complete waste of time.
@@shatnersufolanded7785 don't I wish that would have worked. That puller was pumped to capacity plus. If you've never had a badly frozen hub, you can't imagine how stuck it can be. My current car's axles could be pressed out with a finger (Arizona car)
@@shatnersufolanded7785 don't I wish that would have worked. That puller was pumped to capacity plus. If you've never had a badly frozen hub, you can't imagine how stuck it can be. My current car's axles could be pressed out with a finger (Arizona car)
Wen so schwear ausser kommt.Unnötige arbeit besser Radnabe mit grosser Flex ausschneiden neuer radnabe kostet nicht vermögen.
I had to do this yesterday, after 2 days battling. I made a video of it ruclips.net/video/9VrXUVaTRqc/видео.html
This Bosch Rotary Hammer drill worked for me. 3 arm puller & a OTC slide hammer, heating and prying with crowbar did not work
Congratulations on getting it done. I used a hammer drill that was a lot bigger than that one, and it didn't do anything on my axles, though they were a whole lot rustier than yours. Mine really did need the combination of 10 tons static pressure, lots of heat, and an air chisel. I've sworn off cars from north of the Mason Dixon line. ;-)
These are just dreadful designs, my Ford just slides out no bother as their not an interference fit with the splines. They should make car designers service the junk they come up with.
To be honest, I've done cars with pretty much identical splined interfaces, and pushed them out with just a finger. This one suffered from a few years in the frozen north, and was no doubt soaked with lots of sloppy, dirty salty grunge. The splines had just rusted together, and I'm not sure that any car with a similar design would be immune from this. And since I live in the Arizona desert, I am going to try to avoid anything that spent any real time exposed to the salty slush of northern winters.
😵😵
@@jonnydiezpaz769 I can't tell you how nice it was to just push the axle out with my finger on my "new" (150,000 mile) Mercedes GLK (California / Arizona car).
Theres got to be a better way than this. Your hurting yourself on this job and tearing your hands all to pieces.
It wasn't a dainty job, for sure! ;-) I tend to be less-than-careful with my hands when working on cars (or trimming trees, etc.). As a result, my career as a hand model has tragically ended... ;-)
Not easy
A bit of an understatement...
You are correct!! Midwest cars suck!!
I had sworn them off, but broke my own rules when I found the unicorn I'm driving now. I could have waited for a lifetime Arizona car, but I might have died of old age before I found it. :-)
Next time you get a air hammer 🔫
I did have one, though not a huge one. It was enough to finally break the stalemate of the axle vs. the 10 ton puller and two torches. ;-) FWIW I did try just the air hammer and it didn't make much of an impression on that nasty axle.
Im sorry but this is not the right way to remove the axle. Your method risks bending the hub, not to mention the danger of the socket or gear puller catastrophically breaking apart. The correct way is to remove the bolts holding the axle to the differential and with a pry bar moving that side of the axle away from the diff. On the hub side, remove the nut and then use an air hammer with a punch bit to drive the axle out. Simple and pain free, no matter how much rust.
Except for the fact I did that, and it the air hammer wasn't nearly enough to push the axle through the hub splines. As I mentioned, this one was about as bad as it gets. It took the 10-ton press, two torches, and the air chisel to get the axle free. I've done other axles that didn't need more than a couple taps with a hammer to free up. This wasn't one of those. ;-) There was no danger of the puller failing, as it was designed for any stress it could supply
This seems like a stupid design.
The hub / axle interface is pretty much the same for all cars that use CV axles. Lots of other elements of the BMW design are at best questionable though. ;-)
Yup most cars have this from way back
Wish I could upload pics, mine is worse than this 🥹
SO sorry to hear that! If my rear axles would have been worse, I think the only logical thing to do (other than trying that inductive heater, which worked very well on the front) would be to remove the nut and just soak it for days with PB Blaster, hitting the axle with an air chisel a few times a day. With any luck, that'll help free up the stuck splines and you can go from there.
@@Mark_H_DIY the nut on mine is barely recognisable, I dont have any issues yet but is giving me anxiety
@@budhafred Don't get too excited yet. My nuts were really crusty, but I was able to easily chip off the crust with a small screwdriver. Just make sure and use a quality socket. Mine took every bit of the 1000+ foot/pounds of torque available from my impact to come loose. And don't forget to undimple the notches or it'll be even worse. ;-)
@@Mark_H_DIY I chickened out and bought a second hand knuckle and shaft.will save me so much time if it’s hard is yours to remove :-)
@@budhafred I actually bought a new front knuckle for the same reasons, shortly after I got this car. When I got it, I realized that it was so beat up, and the bearing was so bad that I was wasting my time. In the end, it was much easier driving out the broken pinch bolt that prompted the whole exercise than it was to replace the knuckle, so I still have the original knuckles on the car. If your car hasn't seen a whole lot of salt and snow, it probably won't be too bad. Good luck with the repair, either way!