How to remove a rusty stuck Wheel Bearing Hub Assembly. EASY! No sledgehammer required!
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2021
- In this video, I show you how easily remove a stuck, rusty, frozen axle wheel bearing hub assembly, easily, with a couple nuts and bolts. I have battled wheel bearings many times, nearly loosing hope, but this easy method works great! No sledge hammer required.
This is specifically being shown on a 2014 Chevy Impala, but the procedure is the same for many makes and models.
I walk you through the whole procedure, step by step. Lets remove a wheel bearing!
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#impala #wheelbearing #removal
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How-to and Reviews 
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Literally just spent about 8 hours trying a 3lb sledge, air hammer, crow bar, and heat gun trying to get a seized hub off my 08 silverado. Found 2 bolts, washers, and nuts, used old sockets for spacers, less than an hour later, new hub is in and everything is back together!!
Awesome! That’s great to hear! Glad you got it handled!
Now, I am jealous
DUDES!! The 3 bolts that go into the hub from behind ...2 out, 1 WILL NOT MOVE. Tried heat, hammers, penetrate... ideas?
@@Jazzydaze I’d put a 6 point socket on it with a power handle. 12 point rounds the bolts off on stuck bolts easily. It’ll either brake loose, or brake the head off.
Thats loterally where im at right now, fml
For anyone trying this method. The issue is that "standard" bolts you get at the store (like the ones in this video) are only grade 2. Grade 2 bolts have a yield strength of 57,000 psi and tensile strength of 74,000 psi at 1/2 inch. It is far better to use AT LEAST grade 5 bolts (92,000 yield / 120,000 tensile) and even better, use grade 8 bolts (130,000 yield / 150,000 tensile).
Definitely, thanks for sharing!
I was focused on using random nuts and bolts that I already had and overlooked pointing that out.
Sheared off the head of a supposed grade 8 bolt. The other bent. But in spite of this, this technique worked for me!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficialq++q a no
Not only should you use grade 8 bolts but also a fine thread of at least 18. Course threads have stripped out trying this.
The Grade 8 "Black Oxide" bolts should be strong enough to do the job.
This legit saved my life today. Was doing a 2012 F150 front wheel hub/bearing damn thing wouldn't budge for nothing in the world after 2-3 hours of using a Sledge hammer, Air hammer, and slide pully was ready to bite the bullet and take the knuckle off to have it pressed out somewhere but also didn't wanna risk damaging any ball joints or tie rods and making another issue to fix.
Saw this video, went into my tool box and found some bolts and nuts and did the same process as you. The most satisfying noise in the world when you hear loud crack of the bearing as it starts to walk itself out. Got in out in less than 5 mins. Thanks so much.
Awesome! Glad to hear it! I’ve definitely been there before I know exactly how you feel. Thanks for sharing!
Man, my 2012 F150 rear-wheel-drive is having the same problem with the front bearing hubs. Driver side was doable with a hammer. Passenger side is not budging. I had the same idea but got so tired and stopped. I'll get a bigger bolt and longer tools for better leverage.
One of the longest jobs that I had to do was replacing a hub bearing. Like you said, most videos make it sound like the part will just fall off once the bolts are removed. I tried gallons of penetrant (multiple brands), heat, sledge hammers, rented slide hammers and even enlisted my teenager and his friends. No luck. I eventually tried something similar to what you suggested and they popped off incredibly easily. The only thing I would add is to try using 3 bolts if possible. I found I made the job easier. Also use anti-seize on the new parts mating surface. It will make the next time so much easier!
I’ve been it that exact situation more than once. I know the pain. This has worked for me every time I’ve tried it.
A WHEEL PULLER tool will also work
Great method! Use a hardened steel bolt, washer, and nut to avoid shearing!
Great point! Grade 8 bolts would reduce or eliminate the shearing issue. Thanks for sharing.
This definitely works! After hammering on the hub for two hours with a sledge, went down to the local hardware store, bought the hardware, and boom! Had it off in about 20 minutes! Real life saver here! Also, have to appreciate the other tutorial videos that conveniently skip the banging and cussing parts!
That’s great to hear! Glad it helped!
I love you..... I tried like 2 other videos and like 5 other things. I took my front bearing off completely and took a hammer to it the first time, but I had to also replace the 2 wheel bearings in the back. Thats when i stumbled on your video... In 90 degree heat... i almost died then your video saved me. Thank you
Awesome! I’ve definitely been there. Glad it was helpful!
Learned this trick a while back. Couple of add ons that make this work better.. Use 8 grade harder bolts and nuts. You don’t break them as easily. Lightly grease the threads on the bolts as this make the cranking easier. And the best additional trick is to use an electric impact bumping it and going back a forth between bolts. BTW I will do the spacers as that is my next trick to add..
Excellent tips! Thanks for sharing!
I’m doing the same truck I’m so tired today🤦🏽
Good deal, I was thinking the same. Was also thinking wire wheel cleaning up the mating surface and use some anti seize to maybe help make easier in the future. Especially if you're in salty road country.
@@timothyreed7238How did it go?
Any tips?
I don’t normally leave comments but in this case I had to. I was changing the right front hub on a 05 Aviator and after over 6 hours of banging I was about to give up when I saw this video. It took me longer to drive to Lowe’s and get the bolts than it did to remove the hub with your method. FANTASTIC!!
I’ve definitely been in that situation more than once.
I’m glad it helped, and thanks for leaving an update! It means a lot. That’s exactly why I make these videos, to hopefully help someone out!
Been doing this for years, always thought I should make a video of it as I haven't seen this on RUclips before, only videos similar to what you describe in the beginning. Great job, great video, hopefully this gets around to everyone, makes it so much easier. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it. I first did this about 8 years ago. It’s a life saver. I started this RUclips channel about 2.5 years ago and was happy when I got an opportunity to film it and post a video. The whole point of starting this channel is to help people out! Glad to see it’s getting some views.
Absolutely brilliant. This is exactly what I need to do. My bearing is rust-welded to the knuckle. Thank you for this knowledge.
How did it go?
Any tips?
I spent 2 days fighting my wheel hubs and this was the only thing that would work. Thank you!
Just did mine same way
BRO!! 10 MIN OR LESS. YOU ARE THE MAN!! THANK YOU!! NOT EVEN KIDDING!!
Awesome! So glad it helped! Thanks for the update!
I'm going to do this slick trick. But afterwards I'm still going to beat that bearing with the sledge hammer, just because.
I'm a retired mechanic his method works I have some additional ideas that will help you also PB Blaster it's really well on rusted bolts also when I reinstall the hub assembly always put anti-seize on the surface area of the Hub this way if you ever have to replace it it will not be difficult to take out the Hub assembly also look up the torque specifications for your particular car do not over torque the nuts on the assembly and I put it on the shaft the anti-seize hope this information will help you
Thanks for sharing! It’s appreciated!
Yes. I use anti-seize often. It's a life saver especially for things like this
I knew this but kinda forgot. So thanks for refreshing my antique memory brother! Really appreciate it a lot.. I now remember I had them break off before too and found that 1/2" grade 8 bolts saved that issue. Have a blessed day!
Nice! Glad it helped!
Very helpful I’ve been surfing RUclips everywhere with no help, this was very straightforward 👍
The best way in taking wheel bearing assembly out so far ! Awesome !!! Thanks !
Your bolt trick was the solution we needed. Nothing else we tried worked. We did use 3 hardened bolts with spacers for the removal. That allowed us to quickly distribute the load as we were pulling it off. We were working on a 2012 Ford Flex. The galvanic corrosion between the aluminum knuckle and the steel bearing is terrible here in Michigan. Thank you.
Nice! Glad it worked! Thanks for the update!
Thanks so much for this video!! My 2013 Malibu has always been in NC(travel up North to snow country occasionally though). The wheel bearing hub wasnt coming off like the other guy's RUclips showed, he did say it was great living in SW though, no rust. I thought maybe there was a bolt I hadn't removed but his video said only 3 bolts which were removed. After trying a few things I finally went to ACE and bought (3) 1/2" x 3" bolts, (6) washers, (6) nuts and tried what you said. It was still a struggle moving the wrenches but it creaked n groaned a few times and FINALLY came off. BTW, loved your laughing video, that really emphaaized how ludicrous it is to expect the hub to just come off :), very entertaining. Thanks again.
Thanks for taking the time to write the detailed comment. I appreciate it! Glad this was helpful and entertaining! Thanks for sharing!
Done this job a few times and, you are right, most instructions just say pull off the bearing but don't say how hard it is and how to get around it. Excellent video.
I would always plan these jobs when I didn’t need my vehicle for a day or two just in case, because they can seem impossible to get out. This method has worked awesome for me. They come right out.
mine alway just slide off lol. But then again there isnt a fleck of rust on my 1003 honda accord because New Mexico is nice to cars. My only problem is rubber rot.
For something to push against try using a old brake pad. The metal is strong and they are light enough to be easy to work with. 👍. Get er done.
Nice! Thanks for sharing!
Could have used this many years ago when I did battle with my first hub. Best part of a day of hammering along with what I call "vocabulary building" and not in a good way. Tip 'o the hat for sharing this valuable trick!
Excellent clear advice and demonstration.
Many thanks.
Thanks! And thanks for watching!
You,'re the man! who would 've thought of the push bolt-method? I think I've just made myself A SELF PROCLAIMED WHEEL BEARING-MECHANIC!!!
I just used this method to loosen the bearing and used a sledge to get it fully separated. Thank you!
Awesome, glad it helped!
Best trick ever , spent hours on my bearing last night and within 5 min with your trick the bearing is out !! Wow thanks a lot !!!! 🎉
That’s great to hear! Glad it made it easy!
Holy crap man you just saved me and my sanity 20 year old rust Chevy hubs did all the normal stuff found your video. Love it hub is out
Great to hear!
Thank you for this. I have fighting a bearing for a couple hours. going to try it.
Thanks for the very useful information. This method you show in your video is the only way I could remove my wheel bearing and it worked perfectly. Two thumbs up
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Thank you for this. Been struggling with mine but I’ll try it tomorrow morning
Spent all day on mine and couldnt get it off. All the youtube videos showed them just dropping off but glad i saw you with a big slage hammer too lol going to try your way in the morning 😊
Unfortunately I'm going to need this information this coming weekend. I sure do appreciate having it. I just hate changing cv joints but it has moved to the top of the to do list. This is truly a great strategy.
It’s a good backup plan if it doesn’t slip out.
Not sure if you were planning on replacing the bearing hub assembly too since you are going for the cv axle. If it doesn’t easily slip out, and/or if it has significant miles on it, I would personally replace it.
I hope it goes well!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I appreciate the reply. I am planning on changing the bearing hub at the same time.
Definitely a simple and effective method. Thank you very much for sharing this tip.
where was this last week when i needed it?!?!? thanks you tube.
I love how you kept it all the way real and entertaining.
Glad to hear that! Thanks, I appreciate it!
I needed that last week. I had a stubborn Bearing. Great video thanks.
Hopefully, the next one will be easier!
I’m going to try this tomorrow on a Crown Vic ex cop car. Thanks for the great video! 🤙🏽
This is probably the most amazing thing I've ever seen you sir deserve a gold medal it's very simple and easy you have no idea of how many times I've almost killed myself to get a wheel bearing out thank you very much for putting that on here for people to learn
Lol. Thanks.
It has been great for me. I used to wait until I had one or two days free before starting a wheel bearing hub because the battle could take a couple days.
This takes about 15 minutes to setup and extract. It’s been great!
*HE'S SAVING LIVES!!*
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficialthat's insane. I feel like I have the secret to the universe! I'm about to undertake this job on a car that's lived its 100,000+ life up north and rust is everywhere, dust shields long rusted off, and I hear that sound lol and was dreading knuckle busting and using those words I'm not supposed to use according to my better half. You're a life saver! 👍🏻
@@consciousobjector2507 that’s how I feel about it. I hope it helps!
This is an afternoon saving video!
Thanks my friend!
Glad it helped!
Worked like a charm👍 Thanks you for sharing😀
That’s great to hear! Glad it helped!
Haven't tried this yet, but just BRILLIANT!!! SOME NICE fine thread bolts and maybe a trust washer too, and this is the makings of a tool set.
This is going to be a lifesaver!
I've done this method with rotors that have been frozen on where i beat and beat them with a hammer. The 2 bolt method works like a champ.
Great, straight up video. Excacly the info I was looking for.
I appreciate the comment. Glad it helped!
Worked great on 2009 xterra. Thanks for the easy how to.
Awesome! So glad it helped!
I'm due to replace my wheel bearings on my car. I've seen so many videos of people struggling and it's a little discouraging. However, after seeing your method, I'm feeling a little more confident. I don't have any tools yet and I'll have to buy some, but I'll give it a go - it's better than paying the mechanic $1500 to replace both front bearings.
Purchasing your own tools is definitely a better investment and the experience is priceless. It will definitely still take some effort, but you can do it! I hope it goes well!
$1500 to change two wheel bearings? That is $750 an hour. That is nuts.
I just had to go through this and it was hell. As someone above mentioned, sourcing a used knuckle can save a lot of time/energy. Good luck!
@@scottcampbell4678 that is Loud as F@#@$ price😮 yhey can be a mother though but over a grand...damn😢
How did it go?
Thanks for this awesome tips, I'm surely gonna try this the next time.
SWEET JESUS! It worked! Came off in less than 5 minutes! I LOVE YOU MAN!
Awesome! That’s great news! Thanks for the update!
Very helpful , thanks for sharing.
An old head at OReillys told me about this method several years ago. I’ve used it I’d estimate 3-5 times.. it really does make the job much easier.
Thanks for posting this video... this was the only technique that worked for me after trying out everything other techniques found on youtube
Awesome! Glad it helped!
I'am going to give you one million thumbs up for this awesome tip.. Thanks
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much, I've been beating on this, and heating it with torch, prying for two days nothing worked until I saw this video and it worked out so well, again thanks so much. A fan, Ray V.
I have been in that exact situation. Glad it helped!
You need a lot of heat. Blow torch is not hot enough. Maybe a 10kw induction coil around the hub will free it
A smart & easy-to-use trick!
Well just as i've been reading i finally did it and i have to add another comment thanking you for this video. Upstate new york rust. Got the bearing off faster than it took me to find which bolts to use
Awesome! Glad it worked well!
Genius... I still love my puller... but this is just as good...
Thank you for the tip. About to do this in minus temps, fingers crossed.
Good luck!
You are a genius that made this genius' day. Thanks for your contribution.
Glad it was helpful!
Brilliant 👏
Thank you for this video
Thanks for the helpful video. This weekend I changed the right front bearing hub on a 2006 Volvo S40 in my driveway. I first tried to remove it with a homemade slide hammer, attached to the wheel bolts, but after 20 minutes of hammering, it didn't move at all. I then removed some of the wheel bolts from the hub by pounding them out through the back. Using 1/2" bolts from Home Depot, I then used this bolt trick along with a pneumatic impact hammer. The hard part was finding a place on the steering knuckle where the bolts wouldn't slip when torqueing them. There's not much space on the Volvo. After some time, the hub began to slowly come out but it was hard work. Less than 1/2" distance after a couple of hours. Then 2 of the bolts seized up and had to be cut-off. I then went back to H-D for some more bolts and some other pieces of metal, which I used to help the bolts jam into the knuckle better. The rest of the removal went better but still took another hour or so. I then installed the new hub the next day, using a 5/8" threaded rod and nuts, which went down the middle of the hub, along with some homemade steel plates and some washers on the front of the hub and on the back of the knuckle, to provide support and counter-force. I then screwed the rod with the impact hammer, which slowly pushed the hub all the way into the knuckle. Next time, I think it would be a lot easier to just remove the entire steering knuckle along with the hub and then bring it to a place with a hydraulic press to have it removed and re-installed.
Glad you got through it, nice job! But yes, removing the steering knuckle may still be the easier option for that job.
The slide hammer often doesn't work because the hammering is "cushioned" by the balls rolling on the inner race as the bearing is forced laterally. Kinda like kicking a ball and it rolls half way up the hill, and then back down. And in some cases, the spindle just comes out, leaving the hub in the knuckle.
You need to pound really hard, the screw nut method holds the force and awaits the next higher force with the next turn on the bolt. Each successive turn keeps increasing the pushing force till the hub gives up. The sliding hammer cant do that, but if you pound it hard enough with the right force of separation, it will work
That's a good idea. I'll give it a try. Thanks
Great video I'm gonna need all the help I can find doing my drivers side brg on sunday on my 2020 camry!!
Hopefully, you can tap it out with a hammer! Otherwise, I hope it helps!
Thank you for the video
Thank you for your video
AWESOME INFO DUDE!!!!!!! THANK YOU
Excellent, EXCELLENT video
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent common sense video
You are a genius! Made my life so easy
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Great video! Thank you!
This video has saved me so much time and effort. Liked and subscribed 👍
Glad it helped! I hope you find some of the other videos helpful or entertaining.
Great advice! Thanks DVD:)
im in the rust belt too, whenever i have to do a wheel bearing job i mentally prepare myself for a wrestling match and have a recovery beer right after
This is amazing!! Thank you 😊.
Nice ideas thanks..
Brilliant advice- Many Thanks!!!
I hope it helps!
nice work
Great vid.
Great idea. Thank you
This video was a huge help thanks!!
Glad it helped!
Great Video, saved me a lot of time!
Glad it helped!
Wow! Living here in here in one of those rust belt states and yes. Hammering away and you make get lucky with those rusty bearings.
This video is a life saver because I was looking at all types of tools to remove stuck hub bearings. About to pick up some nuts and bolts now to try this out.
Will report back soon 🤞🏽
I hope it helped!
Thanks going to try it 😊
Nice job!
Great stuff!
Looks good thank you
Thank you very much
Thanks for the help
Sledgehammer marathon! Lol i felt that. Countless hours and still stuck. Hopefully i get it off with this trick.
Best to use grade 8 bolts & nuts. Some lube on the threads may help as well.
Very good recommendations! Thanks for sharing!
WOW Working on a 2012 Ford Explorer right now you make it look so easy Thank you for the tip I've been working on the right rear wheel bearing for 2 1/2 hours and it hasn't budged will try This
This has honestly made it easy. Results exactly as shown. I hope it helps!
Slide hammer works amazing
good to know---Thanks
Yes this is the way to do it in comparison with hub buster that isn't cheap by the way. Also use grade 8 hardware it can handle more stress.
Good idea and thanks for sharing. Using an impact and a wIre wheel clean up after is all that came to mind, along with an application of anti seize for the install.
Absolutely. I completely agree! This video was just for how to get it out, and I didn’t get into how to install the new one.
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I like the idea like others noted using higher grade bolts and nuts as well. I've been grabbing extras at the yard when I go to pick parts, since I'm amazed at times to luck out like at Weller's and Lucky's Self Serve yards to find name brand higher quality parts that even used outlast the cheaper aftermarket ones that might be handy in a budget crunch or expedited if required. The JIS bolts and nuts I'm finding are 10.9 appears, albeit I've had to transition to metric tools more now with the two cars. Like my old Ranger, will have to try to swap in the proven Jap designs into the U.S. makes. Especially hybrid if I can. Working on that now, albeit procrastination station with analysis paralysis since have to keep my wheels on the road and safely.
Great tip, thank you 👍
Very helpful thanks!
Glad it helped!
Thanks I really need to try this !
I hope it helps!
@@HowtoandReviewsOfficial I’m sure it will
Well Done!
nice trick. wish i would have thought of that over the years.