Ford Focus 1.8tdci... Driveshaft Seized in Hub Flange.. Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Ford Focus 1.8tdci... Driveshaft Seized in Hub Flange.. Wheel Bearing Replacement.
The simple task of replacing a front wheel bearing became a headache when finding the driveshaft splines were rusted and seized in the wheel bearing hub flange.
##### You are using the wrong technique in pressing in the bearing! You are pushing in on the inner race, , you need to push on the outer race, as you will damage the bearings and shorten the life
That's so true...indeed the wrong way to install these Ford bearings!!
No you see the inner race sticking out in the video after it's been squashed to death😂 But hey it was too hot that day perhaps, everybody makes mistakes. Correct way to do it is to press the bearing in the hub first, without the other piece. That's not only for Ford but almost for every make. The axle piece is pressed in last.
@@demonautomotive2726 It's a Gen 2 bearing, hub comes with the bearing on it. Needs a packing piece or a 78mm Gen2 tool.
Hello there. Let me share my experience of dealing with rusted and stubborn bolts and parts.
When you’re using a press to press it out, it would be more efficient to give light taps on the steering knuckle rather than on stubborn axle. With years I’ve noticed that hitting a surrounding area and applying some force to stubborn thing is more efficient than just hitting stubborn thing itself. The idea is (my guess!) to spread vibrations over the bigger part which is holding your bolt or axle in this case. It works exactly the same with caliper bleeder valve - you apply some light force with a wrench trying to unscrew the bleeder valve and at the same time you tap the caliper (not the bleeder valve itself!) around stuck bleeder valve trying rust to make caliper releasing it. I’m sorry for that poor explanation, I’m not native English. The thing is to hit surrounding area that actually holds your stuck part or bolt and not the part or bolt itself. This is just my experience, not saying that yours is completely wrong, just sharing some skills with community.
a nice shiny new bearing, shame it was installed incorrectly!
While being pressed, that big "crack" is music to a mechanics ears!
Your videos are always good Alan. However, whacking the end of the driveshaft with an air chisel or anything else could only spread the end of the shaft and make it even harder to extract. All that energy from the pneumatic tool goes into deforming the end of the shaft which is a small volume to start with. Heating up the outside of the hub and letting it cool again a few times might help break the bond. A hydraulic press is a great advantage but they are bloody dangerous - it's always a good idea to even wrap a sack or a blanket around the part being pressed to act as containment if a Hardened steel part (like a bearing race) shatters or splinters or if the end face of the improvised mandrel or adaptor you're using is not square to the press axis and it suddenly slips off. It could save a nasty injury.
Won't you damage/ stress the new bearing pushing it on as the inner race's are taking the load laterally? I had someone fit a new wheel bearing hub to my mondeo mk4 and the bearing lasted 60 miles and left me stranded in west Wales, the bloke that fixed it said he suspected the previous garage hadn't used the special tool
Most honest video I’ve seen on hubs for a while Thank you
My brake discs were both rusted on so bad, I was changing front bearings on a mark 4 mondeo, I froze my bearings prior to popping in. Also used ebay puller which worked just fine- Video is on my channel. Keep the vids comming
Most honest video I’ve seen on hubs thank you
Funk me!, I've just had the exact same job on an 04 x type Jag(mondeo), including the same siezed pinch bolt, the difference was, I got the driveshaft and bearing out, without a press, on my driveway at home, what a job!
Consider yourself lucky. :D
Alan,
Great job and greetings from USA. I have 2005 and 2006 Focuses.The 2005 is rusted out and is a parts car for the 2006 which is not rusted. In USA 2000-2007 Focus is essentially same as your Mk1 (98-04).
Welcome to Aussie weather....use copper anti-seize on splines of new drive shaft
Drop the job and go beaching, days like that don't cheap don't forget the sun block great vid
Evening Alan 😄 If you think your hot 😳 I'm scorching in my home in Spain watching this fantastic video 👍🏻 Cheers amigo Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Here's a trick that has worked for me, when I have an axle frozen in the hub, I chuck it up in the vise with the axle pointing up. I use a torch to heat up the area where the axle nut usually is at and then I drop a marker crayon down in there, the wax melts and glides down the splines. Let it cool down and it should press out much easier.
Same hub assembly as the Jag X-type. I just did mine this weekend. I think I maxed out my 6 ton press.
A tough job but that's going to be back soon for another bearing after you pressed it in that way. I was always taught to use the correct tool so that insertion pressure was all on the outer race and the bearing was not damaged.
Will be doing this on my drive, part of the fun doing diy repairs.
I do the same thing on a seat ... a 50 ton press fail to remove the bearing... with one big hammer was easy AF after 2 hrs of trying on that press...
A hell of a job , and with that temperature it was even worse! But very good video. Cheers from a not so hot Portugal
For anyone who lived in a rust belt or east Canada..this unfortunately is a normal day for mechanics
It’s 2024 now …yr immortal… now. Plus I’m in Australia… so yr temperatures don’t frighten me ….😂
I’m about to press out a shaft and hub tomorrow… so good timing .
I have never seen a bearing with a pre-pressed hub like that. The only time I've seen pre-pressed hubs is when it's part of a full bolt in assembly. How would one put pressure on the outer race to press it in to the knuckle? Unless there is some kind of special design to it, he's doing it wrong and putting pressure without supporting the outer race, which would damage it.
Love your videos and been loving your previous career of late
It's probably been to the beach for all of its life and not just for one day
1 ton pressure. Still 29 to go
Its a shame vodka breath wasn't outside in a plain white t shirt for a serious soaking
Keep your subscribers happy
Just had a thought
Its still warm
DUAL !!
i feel your pain i had similar problem last week when i did 2 front wheel bearings on an 08 focus one drive shaft was stuck luckily not as bad as yours .but i also had problems with the tool that presses them in as it was always wanting to pull to oneside and the shell that forces the bearing was wanting to split in half as it was a cheapo tool it only just did the job just ..all the best
TANKIOU ALAN
10:20 Never ever do this. Allways use force on outer ring of the bearing(ANY CAR) when pressing it in the hole!
To do it this way tha the video shows the frorce go's from hub to bearing balls to plastic seals and holder to bearing rise to outer ring..
And that will Shorten the life of the bearing plus void the warrenty, as they can see it when they look inside what cost the bearing to fail before it was time.
So yeah that tool that they sell for these is must have, if you want to do this and not have comeback.
Agree with you 100%. You must NEVER hit the bearing (centre) ring, not ever. Only use a tool with a diameter slightly less than the outside bearing diameter.
Good vid Alan, had a few jobs like this. Famous saying at the time was "I Hate Cars".
Dam, that car was under salt water?! Lol
praobly sitting in grass will surely do it lol
That price was a godsend just shows you You don’t need all the tools you just need the right tool
Allen
Nice one mate Monica face says it all
Phil in stoke
Cutting the bolt on the slit prior to rounding off the head gives the best chance of being able to drill out the bolt and gives you the best chance of being able to drill out the bolt without damaging the thread. Use a drill that fits the hole to dimple the threaded part ( thin the drill point out first to avoid a flat in the center). Start with a small drill such as 4mm to give a pilot hole and go up in stages until you can pick the remains of the thread out. If you are really lucky then the drill will bite and screw out the bolt :) Heat is tricky to use when aluminium is involved but often works a treat, aluminium expands by twice the amount that steel does, there are special temperature colour changing crayons available, heat, dab, heat, dab - repeat, no more than 500C as it melts at 600. For blind holes then drill out with left handed drills as it may bite and unscrew out :) The rule of thumb for heat expansion is 1 1/2 thou per inch for steel and 3 thou per inch for aluminium for every 200 degrees C, it works both ways so that if you have liquid nitrogen at - 200C then they shrink the same amount. Tip, a co2 fire extinguisher will give dry ice at approximately half the temperature of liquid nitrogen and may be hanging on the wall if you need to really chill something such as a bearing for a drop in fit :)
Blimey! Not seen a Focus bearing and shaft that rusty before. I reckon that's been in water or lived on the coast.
Believe it or not, I had to do this very job myself only months after I saw the video. Like other people have said, you have to support the outer race if you are pressing the stub axle onto the wheel bearing. The instructions which come with the new hub (with the wheel bearing already on it) warn against doing it the way it was done in the video. Doing it that way will crush the individual balls in the bearing into the inner and outer races - which is not good. Think about it - the car weighs about 1500kg -so the max static load on one wheel bearing is about 375kg and that is a radially applied load. If you use 10 ton to press it in, that is about 25 times the max static load - applied axially - which it is probably not designed for!
I pressed the driveshaft out of the hub without too much trouble. The problems started when trying to press the stub axle onto the new hub. I thought I could do it with 10mm thick plates supporting the edge of the outer race. A 10mm plate is the thickest that will fit between the bearing and the hub flange (and remember while you can knock out the wheel studs to make more room - how will you get them back in afterwards? - impossible). Because all the load was being supported on a small segment at the edge of those 10mm plates, they buckled! That's what the special FORD tool 204-348 is for. It wouldn't be too hard to turn a circular plate like that on the lathe and then cut it along a diameter.
Class video mate
End bit had me in stiches
I know who to call if i ever get a seized drive shaft
How come you dont lose it over these things cos if it ŵas me my tools would be thrown about the place
Looking forward to your next video
I wish i had a press when i did this 2 weeks ago. Ended up using a bearing puller to steady a bolt and a sledge hammer.
Liked the channel, subscribed.
thank you
keep them coming sir
It's all relative Alan .....whilst you were working I was having a colonoscopy! The gas & air was good though.
Enjoy your videos .. do you do private work or members of the public.i got a timing belt and water pump need changing on 2008 mondeo tdci ...you look a reliable and honest chap
I used to park a 07 focus 2.0dci on grass/earth for a few years. Had exactly the same problem with rust a seized running gear.
I spray penetrating oil on the splines, before pressing out an axle.
That bearing is rough as a badgers arse 😂
Apologies for my French 😂
Did this job on mine last year the ns was a days worth of blood sweat n tears with a bearing puller. Os £20 to the man at the local garage with his press 30mins thanks.
Those parts look worse than the same job I just did on a 2010 Honda Accord, from snowy Buffalo, NY area. Do they salt roads in the winter there too?
the bearing?
That's what you call a solid car 😃😂😁😄
For your diary, National Bikini day is 5th July every year, mark it in on Monika's wall planner :)
What a dam nightmare,great video mate,
I have a ford focus TDCI 1.6 2011 5 door hatch, I think it was the model 2008-2011,
on ebay they sell wheel hub with bearing for models 2004 -20011 would this hub be correct for my ford focus,
Super soaker good but personally I would of used my single barrel pump action yoghurt riffle.
Gets much better results
Very good!
When I finally get the stuck axle out of the hub I am going to be kind to the next poor bastard who has to work on this thing (which might be me) by putting a little copper grease on the splines of the new axle.
I love never seize grease, why does no one else use it?
🤪
today in the netherland was just as warm. I just thought I'd stay home. 🥵
Been there that's what Joe public don't appreciate sometimes simple jobs turn into nightmare jobs
Had the same carry on with my ST focus. All for an inner CV boot
On focus st they are sometimes bonded in with loctite, there is a TSB on it where if a customer experiences clicking from driveshafts, ford tell you to glue them into the bearing with loctite on the splines.
That's not how u pres in a Ford bearing. U need a special tool for that bearing
Trick I learned on these as I’ve had a few seize in now is that I remove the disc.
Then get a puller in reverse with the 3 legs on the flange / hub then screw the puller in so it presses against the driveshaft instead pushing it out the back.
Also need to be careful sometimes pressing those bearings in on a press, there is a tool for pulling them in so pressure is applied to outer part of the bearing rather than inner part.
m.ruclips.net/video/AmANl_W3HRk/видео.html
Hi Allan , put some heat on it and it will fall apart.
1 ton , in sweden sometimes it takes 10-15 tons to release something.
i messed up in the video it was about ten ton to get it moving lol
V much enjoyed vid
You should get a drive shaft perss. Have used a hydraulic one that use a portapower and you could change pressed beraings with it without taken it of the car.
I'm doing that now on my transit connect I can't even get the hub nut off at the moment
What if you put it in a chest freezer for a few hours
Your shop is too clean mate.
lol
Love love you videos
i have read about changing these bearings, often see mention of using a gen2 tool, after watching this i think i can safely do it myself. thank you
Can you please give advice.Mk4 mondeo fuel pump.only done 50,000 miles.on service says theres a fault.Not noticed a problem driving .
Alan, would the time-honoured method of heating up the components have helped here ? I know heat doesn't always produce the desired result, although often it helps plus copious releasing fluid. I like yoiur style " Cheers, Chris.
Can the old one I need it for parts
"Ear protections is very important"
Wears no eye protection lol
neither the Bering if is installed correct .look what you done to the end of it ..I won’t put my car there to fix it ,,,,,sorry
Good job well done. Jobs like this makes us wonder why we didnt pick an easier trade lol. Ps the customer rang up , its the drivers side she wants replacing ha ha
Same as all mk1 and mk2 focus, also Ka en Fiesta......rust en seized.
Don't have a right tool
If you use cutting torch to heating the Bolt....
And try to heat inside the shaft... Every time works 😉
Not going to bother with the tool to support the outer bearing race to avoid brinelling the bearing then
you probably dont give a damn but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost my password. I love any tips you can give me!
@Marvin Anthony instablaster =)
@Diego Tristen I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Diego Tristen It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much, you saved my ass!
@Marvin Anthony you are welcome xD
Hi Alan, great video again, thank you. When you off the drivshaft from gearbox, do you need to shift any gear?
no just leave it in neutral
@@alan4x Thank you,. 🙏🖐
why haven't you replaced the ABS sensor ? how silly for the sick of 20 pounds
you can't press in the hub like that, it was a gross mistake.
Use Anti-seize lubricant is the best.
Well, I commented a while ago on a different video, but here goes nothing ...again.
Please, master. Help me out.
- Mondeo MK4 2.2 2014 model.
- Satnav. (SD card type)
- High pitched noise coming out of the head/nav unit each and every time I just get in the car. Turning the radio on, starting the car can change the pitch/tone, but it's always there. Sometimes it gets quite loud as well. Turning down the speakers/music has no effect on it whatsoever. Now I took off the plate on the satnav (where the SD card is), and the noise is coming out of there very loud.
Any idea what might cause this? Some inverter/converter/electric circuit?
I'd be really glad if you, or anyone could point a finger at any component that I should take a look at. Obviously "replace the satnav" is one option, but that'd be a rather pricey attempt, and it might not even fix the problem.
Thank you in advance!
Hi have you had much Trouble with 1.8tdci head gaskets going or cracks in the head. Mine has been fine cold but once it warms up it blows out the water and engine cuts out safety mode .
no they usually are a bullet proof engine
You mean Celsius, right?
yes
This shit happened to my 2008 2.0 tdci focus :))) Fucking DOT 4 solved the issue :)) Mine wasn't rusted like that though
So thats what happens when you park your car in the sea, i always thought the transit connect was a focus with a van back on it but the suspension is different the connect has the bottom ball joint on the strut, anyway brilliant video and that bit at the end everyone was thinking it but no one is saying it.
Let me clarify we are all thinking Monica is beautiful.
No that's what happens when you use road salt in winter and then are afraid to wash it all winter because you'll have frozen door latches with no way to defrost the electronics
Try working in it lol.... Nice vid bruv
Jesus wept. Lots of soaking with WD40 and a lot of heating with the map gas and quenching is your only chance on the driveway.
I actually had a Peugeot 206 where it was so bad we just had to get a corner from the scrap yard. Even the caliper and brake hose. Everything was FUCKED.
Been here many times before in this situation no doubt a coast car at some point
ive said it a hundered times, car manufacturers should be forced to use anti seizing compound on assembley, it will prevent mechanics from injury due to having to use accessive force to remove serviceable parts.
That bin must be getting very hungry as you have stopped feeding it :(
hI,I KNOW IM OFFTOPIC BUT I WANT TO ASK IF YOU KNOW why steering wheel shakes like left right lil bit on over80km h and i can feel like lil bit car in front shaking? these are secoond summer tires i buy because of these problem...its a 2011 2.0 l diesel 115hp ,thank you
It could be worn suspension bushes, or balancing on your wheels might need doing
never-seize, for next time
6:46 Holy Shit! 😂🤣😂🤣
I didn't know that Bruce Willis is British.
hit the hub-bolt hole with a countersink
Only a ton? I had to use 15 tons on one once,all was ok after.by the way you must use the special press tools which press on the top of the bearing itself, if you press on the hub all the force is taken by the balls which will dent the race where every ball presses, shortening the life of the bearing.
i messed up in the video....it was around 15 tonnes to get the driveshaft moving out of the bearing
The worst nightmare, Ford mondeo focus ka, cheap iron cast ever from factory
Sweet revenge 👍👍👍😂
No safety glasses with the press ?!?
Volvo v50 2.0 and the Ford focus 1.8 are really bad for this crap seazing drive shafts into the hub. I do them in press with 20 ton of pressure.