Novice mechanic here having successfully completed this job on my connect 2k miles ago. My van snapped its wet belt about 7 years ago at 50k miles according to the previous owner, but they didn't convert to a chain after rebuilding the head. 60k miles later, having spent a month converting it to a wee camper, I decided that leaving it wasn't worth the risk! Thanks to this video and the video from badgertronix i was saved a fair chunk of cash, have a van that (probably) won't explode, and I got a good bit of experience at the same time. My belt was cracked to high heaven too, so taking the plunge was the right decision. Some things to note from my experience: My camshaft pully was stuck on tight, no amount of tapping would free it. I was able to pop it off easily with a homemade puller using 3 m10 bolts and some thick steel for the body with 3 holes drilled. You'll need some nuts too. I'll let you work out the rest (part of the fun eh). So just be prepared for this. Ford make a dedicated tool but i couldn't find one anywhere really. My new crankshaft seal was leaking quite badly when i installed it, so i replaced with the old one and it was completely fine, still going strong. The seal was from FAI in the lymm engine kits. I saw another guy had this issue so it may be common. So just try this before you go diving back in there thinking the alignment is off. Cheers Alan.
honesty one of the most useful videos iv ever ever watched been in the trade 11 years and trying to get info on this exact job is near impossible even with contacts in ford thanks alan
this vid. was my first date with you.... i put a spanner on the crank, another on the cam, turned engine clockwise, stopped, then turned it anticlock, no lag between top + bottom spanners, therefore fkin belt fitted. needed dmf as well, so pulled lump out. checked shells, big ends gone [99k] , oilpump partially clogged with belt dust. all the belts, shells, wpump, aux tensioner, dmf + clutch + all seals/gaskets , £850. survived 4yrs now, but use 5/40 oil every 3k cos mains rumbling. you were a very expensive video to watch, but well worth it. keep up the good work + give monny one for me
Still a great video Alan. Now coming up on 300,000 miles, this was my second time doing this job with the engine in the vehicle (Ford dealer did it at 100,000 miles). A couple of things I found: (1) You won't get the water pump off without taking the auxilliary drive belt tensioner off first (1 x 10mm screw and 1 x 13mm screw into block). There physically isn't the room to lift it upwards between the engine and the wheel-arch/side of the engine bay - it has to be passed rearwards and the tensioner pulley will be in the way. (2) Getting that engine mounting bracket off is a nightmare due to the length of the bolts holding it on. You need to take the water pump pulley off first to make extra room to wiggle the mounting bracket around (likewise when re-fitting after wet belt is fitted - make sure the mounting bracket is fitted before re-fitting the water pump pulley) - also jacking the engine up a bit creates a bit more clearance. (3) Its important to re-fit the wiring harness to the injectors and various sensors on top of the rocker cover (disconnected to remove the rocker cover) the same way it was originally. When I did this the previous time, I routed the wiring over the fuel pipes instead of under them and it must have strained some wiring resulting in the car going into limp mode until such time as the wiring harness was put under the fuel pipes.
good to now engines good for 300000 , got one in mk2 focus great car issue is clutcj gone at 90000 , seems to be release bearing but im think dual mass as well ... I get it replaced and should be good for ages ...Not had car form new previous owner ruined the clutch mines has the metal chain
Cheers for that, I had one come in today and was unsure about the pump timing, mines on the focus so I’m finding it hard to find the crank blanking plate, I know it’s behind the alternator drive but it alludes me, thank you kind sir for clearing up a few things before I tackle it head on in the morning, much appreciation and love
Bought a 58 mondeo with 125k miles. Took it to my local garage for timing belt and oil change and the lad said please do the wet belt too. Ford recommends timing and wet belt to be changed at 125 k or 10 years. Glad i accepted for him to change it as it was all cracked. Probably would have failed in the next 2k miles totalling the engine
You've done my mate a real favour.lol. I've decided to leave his connect alone. I used to be a fitter in early 90s these 1800s have really changed. N FFS they needed it!!!!!
Absolutely brilliantly explained and carried out by a man who knows what he's doing, what manufacturer in their right mind would design an engine like this to put a wet belt inside an engine and then another belt on the outside making it double trouble, if either of those belts fail then that engine is toast but I suppose it's a good way of selling engines for Ford. I believe they are doing the new 2ltr diesel the same way, I for one will Never buy a Ford with this stupid engine fitted because as usual with Ford as long as it lasts till the end of the warranty period their fine with that and then it's you parting with the cash, nice one Ford.
There's no prospect of me ever owning any vehicles with this engine, but I watched the video anyway just to see what the hell a wet belt set up would look like. I don't like the look of it! But I liked the video a lot shows how the job is done in the real world. Probably would have been worth doing the video on a real customer job or having at least the new kit of parts, but you definitely demonstrated how to get the job done. It kept my interest through out even after I'd seen the wet belt, I got sucked in and had to see the rest of the demo! Only observation, when refitting the crank pulley carefully over the seal, I reckon a smear of engine oil on the sealing surface on the pulley and / or the seal would be a help to assist sealing and minimise risk of teh seal getting caught and nicked. But as you said you've done hundreds of these so evidently fitting it dry but with great care works just fine! Top vid. Kudos to you for being a real skilled mechanic
thank you, i had to borrow that dud engine to make the video as i never had a camera when i was regulary changing those belts, so it was a case of now or never..thanks again for your comment, much appreciated
What a hero, I didn't realise how much this is for the professionals. Definitely not for the faint hardy DIY with no indoor facilities - I just bought a second-hand Connect at 108K as mine said its prayers on the M6 at 160K. I think I will visit my professional mechanic and let him have the responsibility 😱 Fascinating video that just helps demonstrate why we should use properly skilled people. Thank you
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this strip down. Pulling the tensioner revealed a domed tensioner plunger (phew!!!) but all the same it helped a TON changing bruvs water pump and top cambelt in his Focus Mk.2. Getting the lower engine mount out with the engine in the car was a shit bag of a funt of a castard of a futha mucker of a nightmare but otherwise this job is quite do able on the drive for unauthorised meddlers such as I am. Keep up the good work, I owe you a six pack of your preferred beverage!
Followed your instructions and it’s spot on , short of having a faulty crank seal the van starts & runs and I’ve now improved its longevity- can’t thank you enough for taking the time to make this video 👍👍
Brilliant video Alan I know it's an old video but it's still important to know because these are a terrible idea and ford are being sued in America because of accidents caused by the belts perishing I really enjoy watching your videos they are great for the home mechanic 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Bang on I was sure if the crankshaft locking pin fitted inside a hole in the crankshaft, good to know it does rotate anticlockwise when the locking pin is in place, My connect starts runs perfect, but once it starts getting warm it's blowing out blue grey smoke so I'm gonna take off the head to see what's the problem. Great video thanks 👍
It is possible but a little awkward, i've done quiet a few, if your belt has gone the pistons WILL need to be replaced as they crack at the swirl cup edges. A trick if you need to change the pistons is to carefully break the thin aluminium webbing away from the lower half of the crankcase rather than seperating the two halves to allow access to the connecting rod bolts because they are a nightmare to seal if you split the halves. It takes extra work to get the top belt timing marks lined back up but it is not essential because the top cam sprocket is not keyed and the pump does not require timing. Although it isn't essential it just makes the next guys job easier when doing the next upper belt change if you time the pump and cam sprockets properly on assembly.
Très bonne vidéo. Mais attention,en montant le joint de la pompe à gazole comme ça et la poulie sans pâte à joint, il y a 99% de chance d'avoir une fuite d'huile ! Very good video. But be careful, by mounting the fuel pump gasket like this and the pulley without a compound seal, there is a 99% chance of having an oil leak! Thanks to you (google translation)
About time, can't believe it , I am convinced that when anyone attempts to upload a vital video relating to ford engines, I'm sure the people at ford have it forcefully removed, Brilliant video. Now can you do the dmf on a ford kuga awd 2010 2.0 tdci please.
First time I did one I had no idea it had a wet belt. Did the top belt made up how easy it was. Three month later came back with a wrecked head. Wet belt had gone. Lesson learned. Ring Ford with the chassis number and find out.
Предыдущее поколение этих движков было более проще в плане замены комплекта грм и сальника коленвала. За видео ставлю 5 такое в училища надо показывать (на Русском) Super👍
In our work fleet ,we had 6 out of 6 transit connects with failed wet belts. All of them failed between 25k and 90k kilometers, and one of them even failed twice. Some of these vehicles did however have a fair deal of idle hours, but still all of them was covered under ford 100k km driveline warranty. Must be said that climate here is fairly harsh and temperatured could go as low as -25C in the winter.
Alan had a discussion with an independent garage owner and he came up with following points on wet belt/chain situation 1 he claimed chains broke on the original engine so as long as wet belt is changed in line with specs there shouldn't be a problem 2 he reckon that you shouldn't use a chain conversion on the wet belt engine as the internals have been modified to suit wet belt . 3 he reckons wet belt is used for emissions/fuel consumption and less particle contamination in oil as opposed to chain . 4 he reckons he does this job without aligning tool and has never had one leak . I'll keep my thoughts to myself until you reply , hope I'm not taxing you too much regards Ian.
hi, i will try to answer this...i have changed about fifty wet belts for chain conversions now...most of these cars had chains put in them about 100k miles...and most of these cars were taxis...we get rid of these cars between 300-400k miles so most of the chains have done 2-300k miles with no problems related to the chains whatsoever. i have never heard of one of these chains breaking either..they are a thick double chain. the cars run perfectly fine with the chains..never had an issue. as for aligning the lower crankcase...there are no dowels to hold the case in a specific position so without the alignment tool the crank seal will no doubt not be central on the crank pulley......i fitted lots of these lower crank covers without the alignment tool as i did not know one was needed until i had a few bad crank seals leaking....then i bought the tool and had to align some of the crank covers. you may be lucky without the tool but it is risky. the big issue here...a new wet belt kit is considerably cheaper than a chain conversion...so if you don't intend keeping the car for more than another 100k miles then fitting a wet belt is the best option...if you do then a chain would be the way to go. i stand by the fact the belts are supposed to be quieter in operation...and cheaper to fit as the chains cost more to produce..in reality the engines sound the same with a chain or wet belt....hope this helps
Hi. This video is very helpful. Thanks for uploading it. My question is that on my car the cam shaft snaped which has bent the valve luckily it didn't damaged the pistons. So I have bought the new head with complete valves, Hydraulic lifters and camshaft. So the timing is all out at the moment. I have bought the complete timing tool kit. I have used the timing bar to lock the camshaft from the right hand side. How do I lock the the fuel pump pulley and how do I use the locking pin to lock the crank pulley. In this video the belt is being changed in a normal circumstances n mine is completely different case. Please someone help. Thanks.
I was going to give this a go myself on my 2010 Transit Connect, but i won't have the engine removed as he has here, so i can imagine it being a nightmare.
Would it be further wise to take off the oil pan and check the pickup screen? Nothing like doing all this and have the engine starving for oil and kill itself.
This is a good video, with only one failing. The third (3rd) engine lock off tool, is missing. This goes on to the flywheel where the starter motor goes. This then stops anyone then "as you said" bending the crank shaft aliening tool to what is NOT a locking pin. It is just an aliening tool. You need the flywheel locked to prevent this happening. So, there is no need for as you did to use a pair of mole grips to re aliening the crankshaft, As, it wouldn't have moved. Other than this. Great video thanks for making it.
This is how Ford and similarly other manufactures make money. You either pay a small fortune to have the belt replaced, hopefully correctly or the motor trashes it's self and you pay a bigger fortune having the damaged parts replaced plus the belt, or you spend an even larger fortune on a new car. Engineered obsolescence, when the could have sold the vehicles for a couple of hundred dollars more on the first place with a better timing system that doesn't shit the engine when the belt breaks.
Hello Alan, very good video. I checked my engine (qyba on my mondeo), unfortunatly the belt hasn't been replace at 200 kM and tooth has been damaged at 285kM. The engine failed at about 30mph and was enough to bent 6 valves and damage the 4 pistons and destroyed the cam shaft. I really don't understand why Ford made this f*ck**g design on that wet belt. Now I have to find an engine that is quite hard ...here in France. It seems the connecting rods and crankshaft are not damaged but anyway I will have to replace the pistons.. great watching your video again and again..Many thanks to you !
hello, if it is just a few dents on top of the pistons...that is ok... the piston heads are pretty thick, as long as the bores are not damaged.however, it is a lot of time and expense whether you fix or replace the head or get a new engine
Hello Alan, thank for your answer. I think I have to replace the four really damaged pistons unfortunately (the engine is out of the car so it's easier to work on it now). While making complete revolution of crankshaft the 4 pistons are coming at the same high point (I think I don't have bent connecting rods or damages on crankshaft).The plastic guide of the timing belt has been broken where stands a circlip (12.28s in your video). I think I'm going to replaced by chain kit + water pump. I got a new head (valves and camshaft complete in use for 70€ !! 80% discount). So I think by chance it will cost me not too much money...(half price than a used engine at 2000€). Any idea or comment is welcomed.10.000 thks.
Hello Alan, finally my Ford Mondeo engine is rebuild with parts. Engine kit, welt timing belt, upper time belt, water pump, news valves and pistons, 9 pairs of bearings , fire gaskets for injectors, coolant thermostat...all is fine I just drove 65 kilometers this afternoon and all looks good. I would say it cost me a total of 800-900€ and tools (150€, hopefully I had already a lot of them) and 15 full days f. I want to thank you again for your video, you can be proud to say you saved a french mondeo (lot of laugh). 10.000 thanks again for sharing your knowledge and hope as you said someone else in the world. I wish you all the best ! Take care of you and your family.
hello there, this video helped me alot when doing my timing belt a couple years back (thanks for that), but i am now having to change out the crank pulley, is it enough to lock the ringgear and screw it off and replace, or will this get it out of timing? cheers from norway
@Alan Howatt Your video is amazing! this best quality sound and video i've seen on a mechanic video and the instructions are clear and straight forward, nice one for taking the time to make this. Got a 2006 connect this week and on 146,000 with no service history or history of the belt being done. It's running a wet chain. Do they need changing while i got the top belt off or will the chains just last? and just do the top belt?. Read many stories and info from forums but just wanted your views on it. Cheers Mike
You are not wrong! Once you get the lower engine mounting out though (the bolts ars longer than the available clearance🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬) there is a reasonable amount of space to work with
Hiya mate I just bought a transit connect with a not working fuel pump is the fuel pump the second pulley your man pulled off ? If so what a terrible design I mean why not have it in the tank like normal 🤣
@@seanconnelly2832 yes the second one , front of engine. Make sure you buy a virginised pump if buying a secondhand one. They need to be coded to van once fitted.
How I wish I'd known about this, this time yesterday! Lost power on motorway, towed into garage, no compression. They're checking but from what I've read sounds like the 'wet belt' gone. Question : Is there any chance I haven't suffered major engine damage? Great video, if I was going to do the job myself, this would have been exactly what I needed!
hi, sorry to hear that.... the damage to your engine will probably be all the valves are bent, valve guides broken and possibly broken camshaft.....i doubt very much if a con rod has been bent or cylinder bore damage.... the crown of the pistons are thick and a few dents won't matter but the cylinder head will have to come off...it will not be a cheap job
Do not leave the belt till the recommended 125k change interval. Mine was replaced at 98k and was very badly cracked between the teeth all the way round. I consider myself very lucky it hadn’t snapped due to its very poor condition.
Probably the best demo vid I've ever seen. Possibly the most stupid engine design I've ever seen. :) I have a nissan P12 with 2,2 DI engine, timing chain is live time :)
I'm on 155000 miles... how long will these engines go on for once i replace the wetbelt?. It's had regular services. Just not sure wether to buy a re con or do the chain conversion. Thank you.
Hi Do you know if this is a common job now that most mechanics know about? Do you do a belt conversion to a chain? If so where are you based and roughly what is the cost. My vehicle is a 1.8 2012 connect with 80k miles Thank you
Excellent video can you please tell me if I can just remove the tensioner from the bottom belt without affecting the timing? I want to check if my engine is belt or chain thanks
A very helpful and informative video - I am just starting the wet belt on my Transit Connect so a big thank you. One area that I don’t currently understand is the damage that appears to occur when these belts break (happily to date, I have no experience of this although my van has done 125k). I had assumed that given the belt connects the crank to the high pressure fuel pump (and assuming the dry belt is ok) all that happens when the wet bet breaks is that the vehicle stops due to fuel starvation. I am obviously missing something - to generate the damage to valves, guides and pistons surely the dry belt has to break as well?
Solved my silly question - obviously the high pressure pump is the connection point to the camshaft from the crankshaft via the wet belt - anyway thanks for the vid.
Thanks a lot for this video i found it very helpful. I had took the timing case off my 2006 connect and i put back in without using the element tool , do you think it should be a problem ? Thanks
![[MV] 윤승 Yoon Seung - I Mean Love U](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t31DTm975T8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
Novice mechanic here having successfully completed this job on my connect 2k miles ago. My van snapped its wet belt about 7 years ago at 50k miles according to the previous owner, but they didn't convert to a chain after rebuilding the head. 60k miles later, having spent a month converting it to a wee camper, I decided that leaving it wasn't worth the risk! Thanks to this video and the video from badgertronix i was saved a fair chunk of cash, have a van that (probably) won't explode, and I got a good bit of experience at the same time. My belt was cracked to high heaven too, so taking the plunge was the right decision.
Some things to note from my experience:
My camshaft pully was stuck on tight, no amount of tapping would free it. I was able to pop it off easily with a homemade puller using 3 m10 bolts and some thick steel for the body with 3 holes drilled. You'll need some nuts too. I'll let you work out the rest (part of the fun eh). So just be prepared for this. Ford make a dedicated tool but i couldn't find one anywhere really.
My new crankshaft seal was leaking quite badly when i installed it, so i replaced with the old one and it was completely fine, still going strong. The seal was from FAI in the lymm engine kits. I saw another guy had this issue so it may be common. So just try this before you go diving back in there thinking the alignment is off.
Cheers Alan.
thanks for your comment chlorotica, hats off to you for getting what is a daunting job done
honesty one of the most useful videos iv ever ever watched been in the trade 11 years and trying to get info on this exact job is near impossible even with contacts in ford thanks alan
this vid. was my first date with you.... i put a spanner on the crank, another on the cam, turned engine clockwise, stopped, then turned it anticlock, no lag between top + bottom spanners, therefore fkin belt fitted. needed dmf as well, so pulled lump out. checked shells, big ends gone [99k] , oilpump partially clogged with belt dust. all the belts, shells, wpump, aux tensioner, dmf + clutch + all seals/gaskets , £850. survived 4yrs now, but use 5/40 oil every 3k cos mains rumbling. you were a very expensive video to watch, but well worth it. keep up the good work + give monny one for me
Amazing video. Thank you. Just done a transit connect wet belt for the first time and with your video it was a breeze. Keep up the great work.
excellant, cheers Damien
Great video, just replaced my timing belt of my Mondeo. This video is more easy than the workshop manual. I put 6 hours work in mine.
Glad it helped, cheers rutger
Spot on with the crucial explanations, and important notices. You nailed it with this video! Great job!
Have to do this for a client because he’s high pressure pump broke down. Helped me a lot man thanks
Still a great video Alan. Now coming up on 300,000 miles, this was my second time doing this job with the engine in the vehicle (Ford dealer did it at 100,000 miles). A couple of things I found:
(1) You won't get the water pump off without taking the auxilliary drive belt tensioner off first (1 x 10mm screw and 1 x 13mm screw into block). There physically isn't the room to lift it upwards between the engine and the wheel-arch/side of the engine bay - it has to be passed rearwards and the tensioner pulley will be in the way.
(2) Getting that engine mounting bracket off is a nightmare due to the length of the bolts holding it on. You need to take the water pump pulley off first to make extra room to wiggle the mounting bracket around (likewise when re-fitting after wet belt is fitted - make sure the mounting bracket is fitted before re-fitting the water pump pulley) - also jacking the engine up a bit creates a bit more clearance.
(3) Its important to re-fit the wiring harness to the injectors and various sensors on top of the rocker cover (disconnected to remove the rocker cover) the same way it was originally. When I did this the previous time, I routed the wiring over the fuel pipes instead of under them and it must have strained some wiring resulting in the car going into limp mode until such time as the wiring harness was put under the fuel pipes.
thanks for your explanation, very interesting
good to now engines good for 300000 , got one in mk2 focus great car issue is clutcj gone at 90000 , seems to be release bearing but im think dual mass as well ... I get it replaced and should be good for ages ...Not had car form new previous owner ruined the clutch mines has the metal chain
Proper job Been a mechanic for many years helped me out quite a lot thank you
Cheers for that, I had one come in today and was unsure about the pump timing, mines on the focus so I’m finding it hard to find the crank blanking plate, I know it’s behind the alternator drive but it alludes me, thank you kind sir for clearing up a few things before I tackle it head on in the morning, much appreciation and love
Bought a 58 mondeo with 125k miles. Took it to my local garage for timing belt and oil change and the lad said please do the wet belt too. Ford recommends timing and wet belt to be changed at 125 k or 10 years. Glad i accepted for him to change it as it was all cracked. Probably would have failed in the next 2k miles totalling the engine
Probably the best demo vid I've ever seen. Possibly the most stupid engine design I've ever seen.
for ford its a great idea::its so the car has to return to the stealership to be repaired!!!
@@rearspeaker6364 And with there kind of politics by Trump good exposed,it was my last Ford.
@@Boca-do-rio Psa uses a wet belt on some of their engines also not much more to choose from then.
@@rimmersbryggeri Hi, how would one know which psa engines that would be? both 1.6 and 2.0? Which models/years? Thanks!
@@zernestro I don't know but I could find out. They are inte the 3008 anyway. seems to be a whole range of displacements petrol engines. Puretech
You've done my mate a real favour.lol. I've decided to leave his connect alone. I used to be a fitter in early 90s these 1800s have really changed. N FFS they needed it!!!!!
Absolutely brilliantly explained and carried out by a man who knows what he's doing, what manufacturer in their right mind would design an engine like this to put a wet belt inside an engine and then another belt on the outside making it double trouble, if either of those belts fail then that engine is toast but I suppose it's a good way of selling engines for Ford. I believe they are doing the new 2ltr diesel the same way, I for one will Never buy a Ford with this stupid engine fitted because as usual with Ford as long as it lasts till the end of the warranty period their fine with that and then it's you parting with the cash, nice one Ford.
There's no prospect of me ever owning any vehicles with this engine, but I watched the video anyway just to see what the hell a wet belt set up would look like. I don't like the look of it! But I liked the video a lot shows how the job is done in the real world. Probably would have been worth doing the video on a real customer job or having at least the new kit of parts, but you definitely demonstrated how to get the job done. It kept my interest through out even after I'd seen the wet belt, I got sucked in and had to see the rest of the demo! Only observation, when refitting the crank pulley carefully over the seal, I reckon a smear of engine oil on the sealing surface on the pulley and / or the seal would be a help to assist sealing and minimise risk of teh seal getting caught and nicked. But as you said you've done hundreds of these so evidently fitting it dry but with great care works just fine! Top vid. Kudos to you for being a real skilled mechanic
thank you, i had to borrow that dud engine to make the video as i never had a camera when i was regulary changing those belts, so it was a case of now or never..thanks again for your comment, much appreciated
@@alan4x hi Alan ive got 12 plate connect the wet belt snap whats best to do fix it and any place werr I can take it
Probably the best guide I have seen for a long time now. That’s for sharing. Thumbs up
Yes bang on 👍
Excellent video Alan. And clarifies the engine timing perfectly.
Great video and very informative! Just done my C Max, thanks. Takes a bit longer with the engine in the car though :-)
What a Brilliant and helpful video... Cheers bro, you're a champion
Absolutely spot on this is just what I needed but I can’t help thinking it’ll take twice as long with the engine in place 🤦♂️
A first class job you have done of explaining how the job is done. Well done.Thankyou.
What a hero, I didn't realise how much this is for the professionals. Definitely not for the faint hardy DIY with no indoor facilities - I just bought a second-hand Connect at 108K as mine said its prayers on the M6 at 160K. I think I will visit my professional mechanic and let him have the responsibility 😱
Fascinating video that just helps demonstrate why we should use properly skilled people. Thank you
THANK YOU SO MUCH for this strip down. Pulling the tensioner revealed a domed tensioner plunger (phew!!!) but all the same it helped a TON changing bruvs water pump and top cambelt in his Focus Mk.2. Getting the lower engine mount out with the engine in the car was a shit bag of a funt of a castard of a futha mucker of a nightmare but otherwise this job is quite do able on the drive for unauthorised meddlers such as I am. Keep up the good work, I owe you a six pack of your preferred beverage!
cheers
GREAT VIDEO and Thanks for taking your time to make it and share it with others!!!
Nice Instructions Alan. Just about to do one of these for my stepson. You answered every question I had in my head.
definitely one of the best videos I’ve watched on car maintenance. very well photographed and put together.
Followed your instructions and it’s spot on , short of having a faulty crank seal the van starts & runs and I’ve now improved its longevity- can’t thank you enough for taking the time to make this video 👍👍
Brilliant video Alan I know it's an old video but it's still important to know because these are a terrible idea and ford are being sued in America because of accidents caused by the belts perishing I really enjoy watching your videos they are great for the home mechanic 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Good video shots, well explained, pro instruction and useful tips.
Thank you very much
Bang on I was sure if the crankshaft locking pin fitted inside a hole in the crankshaft, good to know it does rotate anticlockwise when the locking pin is in place, My connect starts runs perfect, but once it starts getting warm it's blowing out blue grey smoke so I'm gonna take off the head to see what's the problem. Great video thanks 👍
fantastic. I think this answers every question I had about doing this job. Cheers!
You've really been a great help, and I appreciate it no end.
Omg, this is all pretty hard and precise work. Now imagine doing it all without taking the engine out of the car! Must be hell.
i did one today on a galaxy long job lol
It is possible but a little awkward, i've done quiet a few, if your belt has gone the pistons WILL need to be replaced as they crack at the swirl cup edges.
A trick if you need to change the pistons is to carefully break the thin aluminium webbing away from the lower half of the crankcase rather than seperating the two halves to allow access to the connecting rod bolts because they are a nightmare to seal if you split the halves.
It takes extra work to get the top belt timing marks lined back up but it is not essential because the top cam sprocket is not keyed and the pump does not require timing.
Although it isn't essential it just makes the next guys job easier when doing the next upper belt change if you time the pump and cam sprockets properly on assembly.
You haven't done the THREE timing chains on a GM 3.6 litre HF direct injection V6.... this is less than 1/6 as bad.
Très bonne vidéo. Mais attention,en montant le joint de la pompe à gazole comme ça et la poulie sans pâte à joint, il y a 99% de chance d'avoir une fuite d'huile !
Very good video. But be careful, by mounting the fuel pump gasket like this and the pulley without a compound seal, there is a 99% chance of having an oil leak! Thanks to you (google translation)
Brilliant video helped me loads today i replaced the chain as didn't know if it had been done also replacement top belt👌
good work and well done
Alan thanks for the video slow and precise instructions fantastic 😁keep them coming thank you
Great Job Alan. Thank you for the instructions... truly professional. thank you
thanks, glad it helped
a bit more tricky doing it in position. was much easier taking the whole engine out. But we managed. Thanks to you...
About time, can't believe it , I am convinced that when anyone attempts to upload a vital video relating to ford engines, I'm sure the people at ford have it forcefully removed, Brilliant video. Now can you do the dmf on a ford kuga awd 2010 2.0 tdci please.
محمد كولاني
Just changed a wet belt on a connnect by following this video - very helpful alan! Thanks! 👍🏼
cheers TTA, glad it helped
Thanks to your video I changed the belts on my car myself. Thanks a lot for the help...
excellant, not an easy job so very well done😊
First time I did one I had no idea it had a wet belt. Did the top belt made up how easy it was. Three month later came back with a wrecked head. Wet belt had gone. Lesson learned. Ring Ford with the chassis number and find out.
Предыдущее поколение этих движков было более проще в плане замены комплекта грм и сальника коленвала. За видео ставлю 5 такое в училища надо показывать (на Русском) Super👍
Да еслиб на русском
Excellent & clear video even a french man who have some difficulties with the pure english accent!!!
Well done Alan, been putting off my mates connect ,been a great help.
In our work fleet ,we had 6 out of 6 transit connects with failed wet belts. All of them failed between 25k and 90k kilometers, and one of them even failed twice. Some of these vehicles did however have a fair deal of idle hours, but still all of them was covered under ford 100k km driveline warranty. Must be said that climate here is fairly harsh and temperatured could go as low as -25C in the winter.
Best demo video I have ever seen. Great detail
a great clear demo,,,its a great vid. Thank you for recording
a great video alan, ive never done one yet so this is a very clear indication of correct procedure...many thanks .cheers..
Spot on Alan. Top class mechanic.
Thank you very much for this excellent explanation. It'll help me a lot.
Perfect video (super instructions + good video quality). You are really Professional.
Thank you, Alan!!!
Professional:D dobreee!
Top drawer video.Best I have seen for this job.
cheers lain
Doing this at the moment, trawling your videos as homework!
Trying to do it with the enigne still in place.
Very impressive video quality.
Replacing the hp pump on my focus mk2 this vid has made it possible to do the job , many that's Bro
Excellent video, would not have done it without the information in your video, thank you
your welcome, glad be be of help
Alan had a discussion with an independent garage owner and he came up with following points on wet belt/chain situation 1 he claimed chains broke on the original engine so as long as wet belt is changed in line with specs there shouldn't be a problem
2 he reckon that you shouldn't use a chain conversion on the wet belt engine as the internals have been modified to suit wet belt .
3 he reckons wet belt is used for emissions/fuel consumption and less particle contamination in oil as opposed to chain .
4 he reckons he does this job without aligning tool and has never had one leak .
I'll keep my thoughts to myself until you reply , hope I'm not taxing you too much regards Ian.
hi, i will try to answer this...i have changed about fifty wet belts for chain conversions now...most of these cars had chains put in them about 100k miles...and most of these cars were taxis...we get rid of these cars between 300-400k miles so most of the chains have done 2-300k miles with no problems related to the chains whatsoever.
i have never heard of one of these chains breaking either..they are a thick double chain.
the cars run perfectly fine with the chains..never had an issue.
as for aligning the lower crankcase...there are no dowels to hold the case in a specific position so without the alignment tool the crank seal will no doubt not be central on the crank pulley......i fitted lots of these lower crank covers without the alignment tool as i did not know one was needed until i had a few bad crank seals leaking....then i bought the tool and had to align some of the crank covers. you may be lucky without the tool but it is risky.
the big issue here...a new wet belt kit is considerably cheaper than a chain conversion...so if you don't intend keeping the car for more than another 100k miles then fitting a wet belt is the best option...if you do then a chain would be the way to go.
i stand by the fact the belts are supposed to be quieter in operation...and cheaper to fit as the chains cost more to produce..in reality the engines sound the same with a chain or wet belt....hope this helps
Thanks for the quick response you've basically confirmed my thoughts , very much appreciated thanks again .
"Nice an' tight" is a Standard British Torque spec. 😆 Srsly tho, great video mate, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us!
Dobra robota kolego 👍💪
Awesome video!!!!! Please keep making videos it help us a lot!!!! Thanks
this helped my dad so much his car is reaching 108 000
Hi. This video is very helpful. Thanks for uploading it. My question is that on my car the cam shaft snaped which has bent the valve luckily it didn't damaged the pistons. So I have bought the new head with complete valves, Hydraulic lifters and camshaft. So the timing is all out at the moment. I have bought the complete timing tool kit. I have used the timing bar to lock the camshaft from the right hand side. How do I lock the the fuel pump pulley and how do I use the locking pin to lock the crank pulley. In this video the belt is being changed in a normal circumstances n mine is completely different case. Please someone help. Thanks.
I was going to give this a go myself on my 2010 Transit Connect, but i won't have the engine removed as he has here, so i can imagine it being a nightmare.
the best video on how to change the timing belt of a Ford transit connect, congratulations from Spain
Did this. You were a great help. 👍
Glad it helped, cheers
Would it be further wise to take off the oil pan and check the pickup screen? Nothing like doing all this and have the engine starving for oil and kill itself.
This is a good video, with only one failing.
The third (3rd) engine lock off tool, is missing.
This goes on to the flywheel where the starter motor goes.
This then stops anyone then "as you said" bending the crank shaft aliening tool to what is NOT a locking pin.
It is just an aliening tool.
You need the flywheel locked to prevent this happening.
So, there is no need for as you did to use a pair of mole grips to re aliening the crankshaft, As, it wouldn't have moved.
Other than this.
Great video thanks for making it.
Умеют же показывать. Профессиональная съёмка и ремонт
Да.еще бы на русском .было бы хорошо.
Very well executed 20 out of 10
This is how Ford and similarly other manufactures make money. You either pay a small fortune to have the belt replaced, hopefully correctly or the motor trashes it's self and you pay a bigger fortune having the damaged parts replaced plus the belt, or you spend an even larger fortune on a new car. Engineered obsolescence, when the could have sold the vehicles for a couple of hundred dollars more on the first place with a better timing system that doesn't shit the engine when the belt breaks.
They did it was the Pinto engine,done no damage .Cortinas capris escorts etc..
The Ford equivalent of snatching defeat from the jaws of victory
Thanks for instruction! I can change timing belt in my car now. Thanks
Hello Alan, very good video. I checked my engine (qyba on my mondeo), unfortunatly the belt hasn't been replace at 200 kM and tooth has been damaged at 285kM. The engine failed at about 30mph and was enough to bent 6 valves and damage the 4 pistons and destroyed the cam shaft. I really don't understand why Ford made this f*ck**g design on that wet belt. Now I have to find an engine that is quite hard ...here in France. It seems the connecting rods and crankshaft are not damaged but anyway I will have to replace the pistons.. great watching your video again and again..Many thanks to you !
hello, if it is just a few dents on top of the pistons...that is ok... the piston heads are pretty thick, as long as the bores are not damaged.however, it is a lot of time and expense whether you fix or replace the head or get a new engine
Hello Alan, thank for your answer. I think I have to replace the four really damaged pistons unfortunately (the engine is out of the car so it's easier to work on it now). While making complete revolution of crankshaft the 4 pistons are coming at the same high point (I think I don't have bent connecting rods or damages on crankshaft).The plastic guide of the timing belt has been broken where stands a circlip (12.28s in your video). I think I'm going to replaced by chain kit + water pump. I got a new head (valves and camshaft complete in use for 70€ !! 80% discount). So I think by chance it will cost me not too much money...(half price than a used engine at 2000€). Any idea or comment is welcomed.10.000 thks.
Hello Alan, finally my Ford Mondeo engine is rebuild with parts. Engine kit, welt timing belt, upper time belt, water pump, news valves and pistons, 9 pairs of bearings , fire gaskets for injectors, coolant thermostat...all is fine I just drove 65 kilometers this afternoon and all looks good. I would say it cost me a total of 800-900€ and tools (150€, hopefully I had already a lot of them) and 15 full days f.
I want to thank you again for your video, you can be proud to say you saved a french mondeo (lot of laugh).
10.000 thanks again for sharing your knowledge and hope as you said someone else in the world. I wish you all the best ! Take care of you and your family.
Kiitos tämä kertoi ja auttaa tosi paljon.
Thanks man this helped me a lot greetings from finland mate
Děkuji za video. Perfekt.
Jen idiot mohl toto vymyslet.
Udělejte to na motoru v autě....
great and very helpful video,cheers.
At the start you sound like you're tslking on one of those vox activated cb/uhf radios.
My wet belt went on my connect 1.8 TDCi van , its interesting to see what the garage are doing to my van
hello there, this video helped me alot when doing my timing belt a couple years back (thanks for that), but i am now having to change out the crank pulley, is it enough to lock the ringgear and screw it off and replace, or will this get it out of timing? cheers from norway
you can just remove the crank bolt and pulley and it will not affect the wet belt timing, just fit a new pulley and bolt it back
@@alan4x thank you soo much :)
fantastic & Much Needed Alan :-)
@Alan Howatt Your video is amazing! this best quality sound and video i've seen on a mechanic video and the instructions are clear and straight forward, nice one for taking the time to make this. Got a 2006 connect this week and on 146,000 with no service history or history of the belt being done. It's running a wet chain. Do they need changing while i got the top belt off or will the chains just last? and just do the top belt?. Read many stories and info from forums but just wanted your views on it.
Cheers Mike
hi, if you have a chain fitted in the lower crankcase then leave it alone, it will outlive your van...just change the top belt, happy new year
@@alan4x Hi Alan thats awesome thank you. Really appreciate that. Happy New Year!. Hope you have a good one. Cheers Mike
Alan how often is the top belt changed?
What an F-ing nightmare that would be to do if the engine was in the vehicle ! Good video by the way.
You are not wrong! Once you get the lower engine mounting out though (the bolts ars longer than the available clearance🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬) there is a reasonable amount of space to work with
About to change the fuel pump so this vid is handy. Cheers.
Hiya mate I just bought a transit connect with a not working fuel pump is the fuel pump the second pulley your man pulled off ? If so what a terrible design I mean why not have it in the tank like normal 🤣
@@seanconnelly2832 yes the second one , front of engine. Make sure you buy a virginised pump if buying a secondhand one. They need to be coded to van once fitted.
Hi Alan.no I didn't fit a ford kit.iam in the trade and I fitted a fai kit from Euro car parts because I thought that was a good product.thanks Simon.
Best most help full vid i have seen in a long time and well presented
Hello . Very very good demo . thank you . Greatings from norway
Thanks Allan, what a great video and a massive help
it does help indeed.....however it is easy to say and to do when your car engine is on the table....
How I wish I'd known about this, this time yesterday! Lost power on motorway, towed into garage, no compression. They're checking but from what I've read sounds like the 'wet belt' gone.
Question : Is there any chance I haven't suffered major engine damage?
Great video, if I was going to do the job myself, this would have been exactly what I needed!
hi, sorry to hear that.... the damage to your engine will probably be all the valves are bent, valve guides broken and possibly broken camshaft.....i doubt very much if a con rod has been bent or cylinder bore damage.... the crown of the pistons are thick and a few dents won't matter but the cylinder head will have to come off...it will not be a cheap job
Great video. Best explanation ever 👍👍
Very nice video, every how many km must be changed the wet belt? If is chain doesn't need to be changed?
Thanks
hi, wet belt is 200,000 km,,,, chain no need to ever replace
Do not leave the belt till the recommended 125k change interval. Mine was replaced at 98k and was very badly cracked between the teeth all the way round. I consider myself very lucky it hadn’t snapped due to its very poor condition.
Probably the best demo vid I've ever seen. Possibly the most stupid engine design I've ever seen. :) I have a nissan P12 with 2,2 DI engine, timing chain is live time :)
I'm on 155000 miles... how long will these engines go on for once i replace the wetbelt?. It's had regular services. Just not sure wether to buy a re con or do the chain conversion. Thank you.
these engines are pretty much bullet proof and should even outlive you😁
@alan4x brilliant thank you for the quick reply. I wonder if I could get it to 300,000 with a chain kit...
Hi
Do you know if this is a common job now that most mechanics know about?
Do you do a belt conversion to a chain? If so where are you based and roughly what is the cost.
My vehicle is a 1.8 2012 connect with 80k miles
Thank you
Excellent video can you please tell me if I can just remove the tensioner from the bottom belt without affecting the timing? I want to check if my engine is belt or chain thanks
I would also like to know the answer to this question please?
Excellent demo!! Thanks!
A very helpful and informative video - I am just starting the wet belt on my Transit Connect so a big thank you. One area that I don’t currently understand is the damage that appears to occur when these belts break (happily to date, I have no experience of this although my van has done 125k). I had assumed that given the belt connects the crank to the high pressure fuel pump (and assuming the dry belt is ok) all that happens when the wet bet breaks is that the vehicle stops due to fuel starvation. I am obviously missing something - to generate the damage to valves, guides and pistons surely the dry belt has to break as well?
Solved my silly question - obviously the high pressure pump is the connection point to the camshaft from the crankshaft via the wet belt - anyway thanks for the vid.
DUMP WET BELT fit chain coverstion as pre /b4 2007 1.8tdci job done
Thanks a lot for this video i found it very helpful.
I had took the timing case off my 2006 connect and i put back in without using the element tool , do you think it should be a problem ? Thanks
those casings should be aligned up with a special tool....if you're crank pulley seal starts to leak then thats why, if it docent then your ok