Bellroy is no joke. My wallet from 2013 still looks almost brand new. Probably will be able to hand it down to my kids. They have such a great product highly recommend and they don’t even pay me.
The problem with Tesla is that TESLA only knows the data. NO third parties can repair a TESLA. Only Tesla knows how many batteries, brakes, repair work is done on a TESLA. This will have to change I'm sure when Tesla grows in the next few years because the government will step in.
Hi Ryan Could you make a video about getting Tesla in countries where they have 0 charging point and no Tesla dealer or Service Center? What problem I might face. Thank u
@blueacquisitions7262 The car's maximum range decreases as the mileage goes up. Then you calculate, very simply, by what percentage the maximum range has gone down versus what it was when the car was new.
This all syncs with my experience. I've had access to and been using a 2018 Model 3 (Dual Motor) consistently for the past two years. Maintenance has been minimal. A 12v battery was replaced under warranty (that one is more important than you'd think). But brakes, tires, etc. all held up remarkably well. Compared to my BMW 325i, this car has been extremely low maintenance.
@@Donut-sw9ud I have two E46 (330 and 325). The 330 hasn't broke anything so far (at 200k miles) yet, but the 325 has blown a MAF. Luckily MAF are 20$ at the local junkyard. They can be pretty good so long as you treat them right and occasionally go out on long, fun drives.
@@Donut-sw9ud It's a comparison of maintenance. The Tesla did not require much, while the BMW did. In what way is that null? Compared to any other vehicle his Tesla still did not require all that much done to it.
@@jeremytine at least in a Tesla you are more than likely going to survive an accident compared to a Prius which is NOT a vehicle I want to be in during an accident lol
I work in due diligence for energy storage. Some tips: low state of charge is generally good for storage (resting state-of-charge or rSOC between 20% - 40%). For LFP batteries (standard range new teslas) charge your battery to 100% every week or two so the software can recalculate range, but do not store at 100% for long periods of time. Only supercharge between 20% and 80% charge. Cycle count for a daily driver should be less than 1 full equivalent full cycle (1 EFC) per day, but standalone battery systems typically cycle 1x per day, so they are utilized more, and have a rated lifetime of 20 years. You should be able to get 20 years out of your battery with proper care.
I have 303,061 miles miles on my model X 100D. The car is incredible, still runs like the day it rolled off the lot (other than loss in battery capacity)
Damn...I avg about 6k miles a year. I world take me forever to get to 300k even if I bought used. I definitely get one used and just check for the health of the battery
@@flowfactory249 I work 15 min from my house and if I go out its with the fam in the honda odyssey. So personally don't drive a lot. Its 12 miles round trip to work and I have myself extra miles
Well yeah but eventually you get to the point where the car isn't worth fixing anymore that's usually why most people decide to just get a new car around 150k-200k miles. For example my parents had a car that had 180k miles on it. It ended up breaking down and the cost to repair it would have been 6k in parts alone and the car was only worth about $2500 even though it had been taken care of the entire time they owned it. So they just sold it as is and bought a new car.
@@thesimplegig I drive people for a living through my small company, and do Uber on the weekends. I have a 2011 Rav 4 with 254k miles on it, mostly highway (about 60-70% I would say). I do full synthetic every 5k miles + Lucas oil stabilizer ($75 total per change), besides other preventative maintenance. Car is running absolutely amazing. Gear changes are smooth, burns very little oil. Of course it will need a major repair at some point. But I can totally see myself getting at least 350k miles off of it keeping this same maintenance routine. I plan on getting a Model Y afterwards.
The thing is the p85 only reached 1,000,000 miles with 2 batteries and 8 drive motors. that is really a lot when someone says "my car has driven 1,000,000 miles" they mean my car and powertrain has lasted 1,000,000 miles, not the car itself. we gotta start looking at ev longevity from the perspective of on its original battery, and original motor because having the battery replaced is essentially like getting your ice engine replaced, and nobody goes around bragging about how long their car has lasted with a replaced engine after the original one went bad. good, but still not ideal. a lot of improvement remains and i'm eagerly waiting to see how long a model 3 can last without a battery or motor replacement
Not exactly. The infamous Model S "motor replacements" were in fact motor servicings. The large induction rear motor (LDU) of the Model S developed a coolant leak of the rotor seal over time. Changing it required a motor removal. The Tesla Service Centers took out your motor and replaced it with a serviced one so they don't make you wait for the entire procedure. Model S has the best engineered induction motor out there, according to EV Clinic Zagreb. They call Tesla King of the road, after years and years of repairing EVs. If you drive a non-Tesla, God help you - they say.
I just lost my modelS to an accident, it was one of the first 4000 built, when I got the car on Feb 8 of 2013, the projected range on a full charge was 271, just before the accident it was 258, after several full supercharger visits, I was thrilled with the the battery performance.
That's good to hear, but more importantly you're safe! I hope everyone else who might have been in the car is doing well. Tesla's safety is the #1 reason to keep driving it for so long for yourself and anyone else you transport in your car.
@@gnoxycat SORRY FOR THE LATE REPLY, I WANTED TO BUY OUT THE CAR AT 21K AND FIX IT, JUST LOVED THAT CAR. BUT THE INS SETTLEMENT WAS 45K, I THOUGHT THAT WA PRETTY RESONABLE FOR 10 YRS OLD , SO I BOUGHT A 3.
Trivia: 4:19 the image of the Tesla on a bridge. This bridge is famously used endlessly by car manufacturers for product photos and videos of their cars. It's called the Sea Cliff Bridge located on the coast of Wollongong, Australia. Along the side of it is a walkway covered all the way along in engraved padlocks with couples' names on them which is pretty crazy given it's a 600m long bridge.
That 30% loss before replacement only applies to Tesla warranties. It does not need to be replaced when it reaches 30% after the warranty expires. Tesla is just guarenteeing that you will have at least 70% remaining after 8 years
Definitely. For many owners who charge at home and use their car for commuting, even a 50% loss would only become an inconvenience if they had to travel a longer distance.
@@lucienromano3493 Loss of capacity often comes with a loss of peak power. On an Iphone, if your battery lost more than 70% capacity, you would see slow downs and random shutdowns while doing more power intensive tasks.
@@tqlla Agreed, but with an EV, it depends what you use it for. If it's a small city car used only for local trips, you probably wouldn't know or care about the performance loss until it was really severe.
@@tqlla iphones, when reaching high degradation of battery, were THROTTLED BY APPLE lol. And these electric cars have complex BMS Battery management systems inside.
Greatly differs from my experience. Had a 2019 Tesla Model 3. Two control arms broke with 50k miles. Charger port broke. Car's autopilot and corrective steering would randomly try to veer me into other cars over an imagined road obstacle that wasn't in front of me. Fuse was blown and driver's car window started rolling down while I was on the middle of the highway during a snowstorm. I needed to hold my finger on the window up for an hour and 25 minutes to make sure snow didn't get in the car. After parking the car wouldn't boot back up and needed to be towed to Tesla. I was charged $1,360, which I was able to argue down. A month later I brought the car in to check a torn cable in the steering wheel column, everytime I moved the steering wheel closer to me to drive more comfortably, I would get a turtle image and the car would drive slowly. Another $1,300+ fix. This doesn't include the time my trunk latch broke (which they fixed) or how long it would take the dealership to diagnose problems. I dreamed of getting a low maintenance Tesla, I got something that started giving me tons of problems even before the warranty ended and I could have only imagined what I would've ended up with should I have elected to keep the car. Loved the car when it worked well, but overall dissatisfied. Probably won't buy again.
My Toyota is from 2005 and I get notes on my car to buy it all the time. As inflation, mortgage and lease rates continues to rise, it will be interesting to see how society reacts to planned obsolescence and the idea that companies keep pushing us out from ownership altogether. I want to see model 3's at the 20 year mark and their market value
Its really only a matter of time before planned obsolescence hits EVs. Though I have a feeling there will be breakout car companies that will make far more simplistic EVs which would make it easier to circumvent any of that.
@@ppumpkin3282 I've had 3 2wd and 4wd 4runners that have gotten notes on them through the years. I currently have a 2wd one. The 2001 4runner I sold during pandemic got over blue book value and CarMax offer from private party. One thing to note though... I heard kbb now is owned by car businesses that sale and buy cars now; it is not as objective and has vested interest to manipulate price perspective on vehicles
Not really. After 30% degradation you get massive problems with balancing between the packs. also the risk that one or more cells get to fail is much higher and at the end the whole pack dies because some cells died. Its mostly not the whole pack that dies but some of the individual cells.
Nop, the cooling system can also clog/fail, the electronic fail, and so on... most replaced batteries under warranty are not due to a loss of range, but to a complete failure.
3 million miles on volvo p1800 is highest I recall if I recall correctly. It was well past one million for sure. I was especially impressed because I got one myself old and used as my first car I didn't share with sister and it lasted nowhere near that. That guy obviously took very good loving care of his car.
More. 5.150.000 kilometers, then the original owner (bought it in 1966) died, in 2018. Volvo bought the car and are still using it, aiming for 6.000.000 kilometers.
My tesla model 3 battery began at 265 mile range and is now down to 220-225 mile range in 20,000miles and 2 years. That is roughly a 15%-17% battery degradation. If it continues to degrade this badly I will definetely be on track for a valid warrantied battery replacement.
your car is normal , and your car is in the typical battery degradation track. the car in the video is not normal because that this car battery is very special good. The cars in this video is called as prototype Tesla car, first manufactured cars that were made of premium hi end Long life battery.
@@eddiechen5460 No it is not normal, about 3 months ago I got a warning on my Tesla so I brought it into the service center and they ended up replacing my entire battery due to the severe battery degradation. They ended up giving me a "refurbished battery" and this battery holds a consistent 230 miles and hasn't degraded at all in the 3 months I've had it. It's still not at 100% battery capacity (265 miles) but atleast it isn't dropping anymore.
Batteries have a calendar life, and will expire even if unused. All of this mileage discussion needs to be tempered by how many years before the battery needs to be replaced. With 8 year warranty I expect to get 10-12 years before battery replacement if I am not unlucky. Storing the car in a cool environment and at 50-80% SOC will help, and it might be possible to get 20-25 years of battery life.
One big thing many vloggers/tesla owners forget to mention of having an electric car other than financial savings is the convenience of not having to go for frequent brake replacement or any fluid/oil changes. These all require your precious time....most ice owners must do.
I'm actually the owner of that "424k mi" Model S from The Drive article (now the car us at 434k mi). Unfortunately, like lots of articles, they left out a few bits of info, and made some additional assumptions. As of right now, the car still retains its 2nd pack (approaching somewhere in the neighborhood of 180-190k mi), and has ~87% capacity compared to new. Not mentioned in the article (though I believe it was addressed in the video the article was about) is that the front drive unit was actually replaced, though not until ~375k mi. The rear drive unit is still original to my knowledge. Also worth noting, I purchased the car from its original owner in Sept of 2020, at which time the car was nearly exactly 5 years old (build date of Aug 2015). At that time, it has 408k mi on it, which means the previous owner (who used the car for Uber full time) put on an average of 82k mi per year! I'm actually planning on making an update video on the car soon (and also have a few others posted on my channel). It is my daily driver, and I actually just got back from a ~2500mi road trip with it earlier this week! I actually work on these cars for a living (at a 3rd party shop, not for Tesla), and there are definitely some versions of the S that are much more problem prone that others, particularly the early models, and pretty much anything that has a Large Drive Unit (RWD or Performance).
I drive a 2014 model S and do rideshare with, it has 208,000 miles on it. I did my 1st brake job this week, brakes and rotors, what other car can go that far on a set of brakes? I also had to replace the drive unit, or motor for the 3rd time. First 2 times were under warranty, this one cost me 6K. I'm hearing the 85KW battery is tough on the drive unit. Not sure why, but I won't be buying another Tesla with that battery in it. Anyway looking to upgrade to a model X, while waiting for my Cybertruck.
My Signature MX P90D with 236K+ is running great. Only lost 13% of it’s original 250miles with 8yrs/unlimited miles and still on the factory brakes. My biggest expense was losing the HVAC for the battery and cabin. I never charge the car to 100%. And 85% of my miles are supercharged. I will 17:24 own another ICE. Waiting on my Cybertruck!
IMO, Tesla does offer good battery/drivetrain, but a terribly designed actual car. When Elon goes to jail, if Tesla goes bankrupt, I think whatever company picks it up will have MASSIVE market advantage. Or if those in Tesla are able to restructure and keep the company alive, without Musk's poor management, they may create decent products then
My experience is a bit different. I have a 2018 Model 3 with 80,000 miles on it. Repairs are almost non existent with control arms being the only thing so far for $250. I replaced the tires twice. While that is good, my battery degradation is on the bad end of any normal curve. When new I had a 310 mile range. At one point it went as low as 267 miles or a drop of 14%. I was told by Tesla as well as several RUclipsrs like Kim Tesla to run the car down below 10% charge and then charge to 100% to recalibrate the battery management system. There are some differences as some say when it is very low, leave it there and ping the car regularly for an hour and then charge it at a level 2 charger. Once it hits 100% do the same as far as pinging or opening the door to wake it up for an hour before driving it to get down to 90%. I did that 5 times and the range increase to 281. That was a bit over a year ago and now it stayed at 280 for awhile and suddenly dropped to 272. So I am down 12% after 4 years and 80,000 miles. Tesla service has said to expect 5% the first year and 1% each year afterward. I am nowhere near the 30% for battery replacement but it does have an effect on my 750 mile trips to my daughter especially in the winter. Does anyone know of other things to do to help?
I am *not an expert. But it sounds like you could have one or more cells that are misbalanced relative to the rest of the pack. If one or more cells never reach full charge, it will hold the entire battery pack voltage lower than 100%. It seems to me, that taking it to 10% did have a positive effect - that's an indication your troubleshooting was in the right direction. My thoughts: Do the pack balance procedure down to 5%, if range improves - it can more accurately calculate where 3% is....then do it down to 3%....after that, you could do it down to 2 or 1% or decide you're happy with the results. To be extra safe, you could choose to take it to 10% first, then do the 5% run and 3% run since the battery range has changed since you last did it. One more thought, you could have a cell or cells that leak voltage more than the rest of the pack. This would indicate a small internal short, perhaps not catastrophic, but enough for it to self discharge more than the other cells causing your pack to unbalance. It might be a good idea to balance your pack quarterly, that is - take it as low as you can and up to 100% on a level 2 charger. This will keep that cell and all the others in good health. This scenario is like a leaky tire. You can have a small leak and get the entire advertised tread wear out of that tire if you keep it properly inflated. it just takes a little extra effort / maintenance.
usually in every 6 months its recommended to get your battery to 0% only using AC, and then charge back to 100% on slow charger twice, this is mostly a 2-3 days job, but your battery will get way better for sure
This actually put a lot of my anxiety at ease about owning a vehicle I know close to nothing about. Even after all of my research that I've done to try to convince myself into owning an EV. The main parts of the vehicle was never my concern other than the battery. The information provided in this video and with other research done via the internet about factual research documents backing these claims. I feel owning an EV is just the cost effective thing to do.
Guys, the ceiling fan in my home is older than me. 39+ years (0 repairs). The iPhone 7 that I bought for my dad in 2017 had its first battery failure in 2024 (Dad replaced battery and using now) Tesla’s battery warranty is 8 yrs. The chances of a vehicle breakdown after 5 yrs is very very high for a ICE vehicle regardless of how well you maintain it. Moreover in 5 yrs there would be batteries would be cheaper with a less form factor. Who knows, the current model y can retrofit a battery pack which can take you 1500 miles per charge in future.
A friend’s Model S is almost up to 500k, and his costs have been a tiny fraction of an equivalent ICE car. (He’s a professional driver and on the road an awful lot.) He would never EVER go back to an ICE vehicle. He has had no MAJOR parts replaced, just things like door handles and a couple of suspension parts, and just ONE set of rotors and brake pads. And of course, he has saved a FORTUNE compared to the cost of fuel.
80k miles on my 2018 model 3 performance with standard aero rims and brakes. I have had no mechanical issues so far. Almost through my second set of tires, replaced the windshield twice, windshield wiper fluid once. Car charges 130kw faster than it did when I bought it, and chargers are everywhere now. Range has decreased to 270 miles but the faster chargers and greater amount of chargers have made travelling far faster and easier than when I first bought the car. I figure at around 10 years I'll likely need to spend some money to replace some mechanical parts but dang this thing is cheap to operate.
EV is like a computer. It either works or it breaks. Mechanical things have a “semi-working” aspect like a engine running on 5 cylinders instead of 6 or a squeaking fan that runs perfectly fine. This means once it breaks, you NEED to fix it. You can’t just “run it broken”. The positive is that if it doesn’t break, it doesn’t break. It’ll keep going.
mab all ice cars have compiters in the car, they are called acu, like 5 or more. My bmw and gmc are filled wirh this things that break and coat up to $3 in some cases.
In this respect they are similar to SSDs. I always say, if you can read and write a TB to itself and it goes 3 months, it'll likely last next to forever. With a conventional hard drive, you never know!
EVs are closer to that ideal than ICE cars but they’re far from solid state, so even the solid state components can be affected by movement/insulation wear/electric shorts that would present intermittent symptoms and likely lead users to believe “this car is a pos”. That’s just one example, among many I can think of and likely more I can’t.
1:15 My Tundra is about to hit 300,000 miles. I have both the F150 Lightning and Tesla Cybertruck on pre-order to replace it. I hope they pull my number before anything happens although I am told its a million mile motor. The engine has been maintained really well since new (have all paperwork) so maybe I am good.
Alright y’all convinced me. I’m going down to Tesla and talking to them about getting one and how it would work with my ICE car as trade in or if I should private sell. I was most worried about battery replacement and warranty. This makes me feel much more confident. Also I’m currently renting a model 3 standard as my Toyota is in the shop getting repaired for carbon build up ($952 bill) and using it for Uber.
There have been scores upon scores of diesel and petrol cars that were almost expected to die before 100k kms, one that comes to mind it the GU nissan patrol, where if you made it past 60k kms without the engine going pop you had a good one
Thank you for the video! In comparison to Tesla costing $0.05/mile for maintenance, in 2012 a bough a new Honda Odyssey and it cost me $9,921.21 to drive 146,575 miles or $0.07 per mile (no accidents and all maintenance done on time per manufacturer warranty at a Honda dealer). Looking seriously into getting a Tesla next.
I have a 2015 Model S P85DL with 178,000 miles and have only lost 10% of range after almost 200,000 miles. I have zero concerns of the battery going bad. They did replace the rear motor at 160,000 miles under warranty. I absolutely Love the car and could never go back to an ICE car. Excellent video, thank you so much for sharing!
@@Whathadhappenedwasss 188,000 miles currently and still has only degraded 10%, New 252, now 225. Haven't had any issues in a very long time. The Model 3 has much better motors that last forever.
The Tesloop data was the most useful and inspiring for me as new Tesla owner. It's good to know that beating the battery like that still lasted nearly 200K. If you are any bit more careful, you should be good imho. Obviously the more ideal you treat your car the better. Best
I abused by 1990 Honda Accord for ten years. I put 325,000 on it and it would still be running today had a tractor trailer no t totaled it in 1999. I had to replace a few clutches snd breaks but it never broke and never left me stranded. Cars have only improved and if I bought a Tesla I could easily see at least over half a million miles.
Thanks for doing the research and making this video. I think I suggested this a while ago and I’m happy you did it. Definitely something that a lot of people should share with friends who are skeptical of electric vehicles for his overall heat them for no reason.
2018 Model 3 long range here. It has 110k miles, original battery and about 4% degradation right now. I do about 50k miles a year now so I'll know in the next few years how many miles I'll get out of this battery.
Did you have to replace the 12V battery? Would you wait till you get an alert that you need to replace it? Have you done any brake fluid flush or pad replacement?
@Trust but Verify No I haven't replaced the 12v. I might go ahead and do that before it goes bad.. thanks for the reminder. I very rarely use the brakes because i keep regen on the highest setting. The pads still look relatively new as of last year when i put tires on it. I generally leave brake fluid alone unless I have a problem or race a lot.
@@steezyg3332 Turned 173,000 miles today. Degradation is about 9%. Zero issues! We have about 5,000 miles worth of road trips coming up this summer so we will continue packing on the miles. Should hit 200k some time this fall.
My battery failed at 15,000 miles but I am somewhat to blame because I didn't really focus on battery health at all leaving it plugged in everyday sending it to 100% without setting a limit thinking nothing of it. Tesla was super helpful though giving me a loaner car nicer than my car for the time being and replacing my battery under the warranty, everything was super easy.
I'd be interested to see how the LFP Model Ys perform with their deeper charge cycles. That 1 mil tesla reminded of the lumberjack's favorite ax, only had to replace the head 3 times and the handle twice.
LPF (lithium iron phosphate) cells can cycle 3000-5000 times. They will outlast the vehicle on average. Only drawback is less energy density vs li-ion. They either will have less range or a heavier/larger battery pack to match li-ion range. This is significant since li-ion are rated for 500 cycles maintaining 80% capacity
@@quaidcarlobulloch9300 I believe it’s being used in some of them. Primarily the lower range variants of the model y and 3. LFP is less energy dense than the li-ion NCA cells so won’t be used in long range variants
I’ve been a huge car guy since I was a young child. And I’ve been driving fun ‘daily drivers’ for the past few years with my most recent car being a Twincharged 400hp AWD Volvo S60 Hybrid. I recently placed my order on a Model 3 specifically for this reason. Fun cars are nice, but so are cars that last for a long time. My S60 would be lucky to clock in 200k miles and will likely cost me 5x as much as the Model 3 will (I drive 25-30k miles per year). Super excited to receive my Model 3
@@JY-lg6ee I only got the standard range model because I use it for my daily commute to work. I have a Saleen Mustang to satisfy all of my performance needs haha but I appreciate the tips!
@@MichaelReeves412 what does your delivery window look like, and has it been pushed back at all? Personally I have a m3 long range I ordered just 3 weeks ago. Original estimate said sept-dec, now it says nov-dec.
@@Shortskeez my estimate is Nov-Jan, but I only placed my order a few weeks ago. I have a second car that I’ve been driving so I’m not too worried about when it gets here
You know what the greatest surprise take-away I got from this video? Literally none of the 200k+ mi Tesla's you referenced mentioned having to replace the shock absorbers. Tires, yes, but shocks that last more than 100k mi on vehicles like these with the extra weight they carry seems extraordinary to me!
We drive our Model 3 for 3 years and 125.000km now, without major maintenance. The costs were 2x new wipers, 1 set of 2 tires (!) And an interior air filter. So the costs are extremely low. Degradation is appr 5% now, but not noticeable. Yes I'm a very decent driver, always in Chill and 80% i charge slow at home. Never above 65% only for long trips i charge to 95%. This car is a miracle, the maintenance is so low compared with my former German cars on diesel and patrol, it's just fantastic. We will try and reach the 500.000 or more km.
Similarly to this video, my internet search shows Tesla’s body parts start breaking down after 100,000 miles in average. That’s pretty common in the car industry. Toyota and Hondas break less and last longer in average. I wish Tesla made better long lasting cars in terms of their body parts. I’m actually surprised it doesn’t. That’s why I’m not switching to Tesla yet. I hope they put some work into that. My Toyota has 400k miles and I have never had to repair one single thing in it, just regular oil change and breaks. I drive it off road a lot because that’s where I live and I push it pretty hard and yet it keeps on going.
@@Gozi101 I hope so, but since Tesla’s track record is average on these issues, we’ll have to wait a few years to see if these new vehicles will actually do better. It’d be great to switch to Tesla especially since Autonomous driving level 4 should be here soon. We’ll see!
I am at about 80k miles in my hyundai ioniq, we really haven't noticed any difference so far. Happy with it still and will drive it until it goes down to 50% or less battery.
Also, in 2016, we took a ride from a Model S from the San Francisco airport to Santa Cruz area in the one of the first ones to reach 200,000 and have its battery changed. It was something that for us thinking more about a Tesla.
That was not Total Cost of Ownership. You left out insurance and depreciation. I doubt that the several sets of tires could be purchased for the $1500 for maintenance. TCO Is every penny paid from purchase to sale divided by the mileage.
People act like normal cars dont hold up my parents both drive a mercedes and a toyota and both are at 850k miles without any big repairs. The trick is maintenance.
@@rkwjunior2298 HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH HE ACTUALLY BELIVE THAT name me good sir ONE just ONEEE classic eletric car iff their really last forever as you say
My 2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance has over 320,000 miles on it. It is allegedly on its second battery, but the rest of the car is in surprisingly good shape considering the mileage.
I drove my 1992 Civic for 21 years. After spending $1,400 on a used engine, transmission, radiator, hoses, etc. (that's $1400 total for all that plus other stuff I didn't list), I drove it another 10 years before it ever broke down for any reason. I parked it because of rust at 585,000 miles. It still ran like a champ and I still own it. The last repairs cost me some thing like $4 for a switch and $12 for a brake cable. My current car is a '97 civic with low miles, and it should last me a long time. That's the thing about these electric cars. I'm all for them, but with an older gas car you can fix just about anything for less than $100 if you have tools. Electric cars will need less work, cost less to fuel, but those enormous repair bills are murder. I get that the average person can't fix their own car, but that's only because they don't try.
I do repairs on cars and you are absolutely incredibly lucky to have an engine that you replaced for only $100 .where in the hell did you find that. A used engine from Japan like I’ve replaced in a couple cars is at least $500. still somewhat incredulous that you have not spent money on repairs on your car.
@@glenncornwall4331I think there is a bit of exaggeration in this story. Also, clearly they did not pay for any labor nor factor their time in the cost. Replacing engine for a regular Joe Schmoe is going to cost a lot in a mechanic’s labor fees
@@glenncornwall4331 It's been awhile since I did that work, but I said $1400 to replace ALL SORTS of stuff beyond just the engine for less than half of what they want for just the touch screen in the tesla. The $100 is from any typical break down I might have with an older Civic. Alternator, ignition module, fuel pump, starter, wheel bearing... None of that stuff is any more than pocket change.
Thank you for the video, I just bought my Tesla 3 long Range, and driving about 450 miles a week that will be about 62000 miles a year. I hope I will get good use of this vehicle. Wish me luck.
@@JagtarShergillPodcast it's all good, and if you drive that much, you will be our of warranty in less then 3 years, that's a pretty big gamble to take if you ask me. Get a Toyota
Thanks for the data Ryan. Great the hear confirmed what I already know, A friend with a 2014 Model S has over 200K miles on the car and has no plans to replace it. The free supercharging for life offered with those early models makes long term ownership very attractive. BTW, that car still looks and drives great with no major component repairs or replacements.
I'm at 142,000 in my 2018 model 3. Full HV battery scan shows around 9% capacity loss (using kWh capacity available not mile estimate). Only significant repair is I had my steering column swapped ($1200) at 139,000 as a gear ⚙️ wore out and it was getting stuck. 12v battery was $80 swapped myself, wheel bearing needed swapped for $120 at 95,000. But that's really it. Original brake pads still and I'm on my 5th set of tires.
Fantastic news. We got our 2022 Model Y 2 months ago and love the car. Traded in a 2002 Toyota 4Runner with 160,000 miles that was in need of at least $10,000 of repairs to make it whole. (Got 20% of the original sticker price for it! at a dealership that really wanted it) Hope the Y lasts us 20 years which is the normal time we own our cars.
Interesting. I have a 2021 Model 3 Long Range. Originally quoted at a max range of 353 miles, kw when I charge to 100%, I get between 357-358 miles... the only vehicle I have ever owned that got better milage over time!
Mine is opposite, I have 2 model Y one is 2021 November and second 2022 June. Now when I get 100% on 2021 I get 312 miles now(14,000 miles in 9 month) when I get 100% on my 2022 I get 320 miles. Both charging to 80% and both don’t go below 20% live in Florida (not like in Alaska) never used supercharger. Will see where it will take me, planing to put 40,000 miles per year!!!
2013 Prius plug in with 375k on it. Original battery still holds excellent charge. Head gasket had to be replaced because of failed water pump at 220k. Car still runs perfect. What’s left out is at this mileage all the bushings and suspension is worn out so car is close to the end of its life.
I lost 1.5% charge capacity in < 1 month on new model Y with 7500 miles of cross country traveling (9000 total) and supercharging to 90 to 95 % due to crappy facilities at TX superchargers and trying to skip the bad ones. Thankfully usually charge only at home and won't make such a trip again until supercharger network goes from making such trips possible to making them nearly as stress free as driving ioniq cross country the year before. Learned a lot about finding charger info and using autopilot to make next trip less stressful though and return legs N to S and E to W were much more relaxing. Didn't notice any loss over first 1500 with almost all home charging with most basic charger.
I wonder how you measured that loss. the numbers on screen are only BMS estimates (even if you connect some OBD, you're getting BMS readings), after good charge/discharge cycles you can get range "back". to truly know the loss you'd need to disassemble battery and check each cell individually. pretty sure the actual loss is not even at 1%. That's the problem for all those articles, real loss is only known by Tesla when they do replacement/repair and can actually measure things Other way to measure practically would be to make same driving test in same conditions on same track every few hundred miles. But again, this needs to be controlled environment as anything can impact the range
@@pauliusvindzigelskis2224 - thanks for the tip. I am simply dividing the miles of range listed by the % charge listed and comparing it to the original range of 328 which initially matched. At home I charge back to 80% every night instead of letting get low after 15 to 25 miles of driving. I only have a 5 mph charger so that seems the most practical.
@@markeby6985 You should let the pack drain down to 20% whenever possible before charging it back up to 80%. For many Tesla owners, they average 50 miles a day usage, so that would allow 3-4 days of driving (depending on driving habits and climate/weather) between charges. Think about it, if you owned a gas car, would you refill the gas tank every day even if you only did 50 miles? Most people wouldn't. With that said, at least once or twice a month, drain the battery pack as low as you can (5% or less is a good number), then recharge it to 100% without using a supercharger. It you don't have a 240v charger at home this night take you a while to do. Anyway, this will help maintain peak battery performance and extend the pack's estimated life span. Try and limit the supercharging to when you really need it (like really long trips). This is the same thing Apple suggests owners do to get the most out of a new iPhone/battery.
@@markeby6985 your BMS only knows it's capacity at high charge, not low, it is out of sync. You need to let it discharge to lower than 20%, leave it be for at least 6 hours before plugging back in. That way your BMW will know actual capacity and after doing this several times you will start seeing range "climbing back". Actual real world range shouldn't change and as I said before, it is probably more around 1% loss I had same "issue" as Yours when had SR+ and always tried keeping at 80% because of low charge speed. Now I have LR and do this low charge recalibrate thing once in a while and I barely noticed any range change after 16k miles
I'm at 118,000 with my M3 LR, so I'm approaching that 120k.. Full charge went from 307 miles to 288 miles. (Edited as I misspoke the first time) I had to replace the Upper A-arms on the front for $701 and had to replace them around 60,000 miles; and rear cost me $600 around 110,000 miles. No other big issues.
Longevity is not just how much you traveled in a few years. Longevity is combined how much you traveled and how many years it is operational on the road. Manufacturers today will be willing to make you travel as much as you want in 8 years (within warranty) but will not live past 30 -60 years which was common for ICE cars from the 60s to 90's hence why they want to brick your cars like the mobile phone industry. Once you stop updating (hind because they don't do updates or want to update it) and no longer support with parts they designed to break, you will brick these cars in the 15 to 20 year mark.
I have 122k+ on my M3P with minimal cost to service. Most were covered under warranty. No brake replacement yet. I’ve replaced the 12v on my dime once. And the driver seat frame is being replaced tomorrow for rocking at a cost of $500.xx or so. The biggest issue is flats and bent wheels as I have 20” low profiles but that’s not the cars fault. And the bumper was painted from someone hitting the car in a parking lot that was never caught. Original pack gets 282-285 mi at 100% originally 310.
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Warranties come standard with a new Tesla. You can also extend the warranty to much longer for only $1,800. By the time your warranty expires you’ll probably be in the market for a new car anyway. These maintenance cost are virtually only an issue if you don’t buy your car through Tesla or you void your warranty.
Ask your audience to check if they can get 1 cent/kW from their utility on Super off peak charging like we do with Georgia Power. A full year of driving for about $50.00 instead of $4,000.00 or more.
Tesla's are great cars and very reliable but i do hi voltage repairs and the cell imbalance is a common issue and tesla update stop car charging. I see people supercharging constantly damages battery very fast. Charge it at home...
I'd like to see what the "average" battery life is over time so that we can predict how long a modern battery should last. So far, my only costs for my MYLR has been charging. I haven't even hit tire rotation/replacement territory yet - nearing 10k miles. So far, I have had in-warranty work done (seat bottom repair and window/seal adjustment/reset). If I can get double my warranty period, I will be super happy. Long battery life is important because not everyone can afford to buy new cars, so folks will expect cars to last several years for each owner. I bought my first car with over 100k miles on it and it lasted for over 5 years (finish high school and all of college, into my first year post-college work). I think EVs will have "arrived" when the same feat is both possible and common.
The number of miles driven by just one owner in this story shows what you are looking for since most WONT drive a car for that long but if a car is sold to others each owner can drive it with confidence.
I've had my 2022 model 3 LR since Dec 2021 and I haven't noticed any battery degradation yet. Honestly it usually takes me 55% of the battery to pick up my daughter 150 miles round trip. It only took 50% the last trip 😆
Older motors before 2018 seem to have high failure rates. A friend of mine had two motors replaced on his S. New motors seem to have much higher reliability. I imagine reliability is being driven up with each failure investigated.
An electric engine doesn't clog itself with carbon buildups/sludge after a long time. ICE are pretty much always going to get messy and clogged eventually and if you ripped them apart or cleaned them perfectly they'd also laster longer, but it doesn't really negact the fact that electronics are a cleaner way to operate. It's something I've noticed with phones, game systems and other electronics. They almost never have a reason to break so long and they don't get too hot. No mechanical parts means no mechanical wear and no fuel combustion means no sludge.
I had my battery go bad on my 2019 MX with less than 65000 miles. Based on that experience I would not purchase a Tesla that did not have warranty left on the battery. I also have a MS 2017 with 87,000 miles and everything has been good so far.
The problem is who is going to give you a decent price on an 8 year old ev when the battery could (in theory) pack up at 9 years. it's true to say that a car engine could do the same but ICE cars have been around for a lot longer and if the engine fails it rarely leads to needing a new engine costing £12,000 plus. I have nothing against ev's and at some point will probably get one but still unsure. there is a Carwow video about a Zoe car with only 46,000 miles that is only 11 years old, now only gets 59 mile range. My old (2007) Golf is very tatty but still goes over 500 miles on a full tank. I still think the Tesla is the best EV Though and will propbably be my next car. Like your videos Ryan.
The interior should stay nicer just because of cabin overheat protection. Heat damage is common in cars. If my Tesla battery lasts the warranty I'll consider that a good enough deal for the price of the car and what I've saved on oil changes, gas, and other maintenance. And even if the battery is degraded I can still drive the car and just charge it more often, if my transmission goes out in my gas car the range drops to zero and stays there until I fix it.
An ICE engine rarely goes out. A colleague of mine sold his car after 500.000 km. Petrol car. He really really did not do proper maintenance on that car... It still worked when he sold it.
@@Xanthopteryx thats a pretty rare scenario considering most cars that arent properly maintained don’t even last half as long. Just accept it, EV’s will last longer on average there’s infinitely less moving parts, cheaper to maintain and when the battery does go out in 10-15 years you can get a brand new one put in for 15-20k at most and you can go for another 10-15 years. Not many cars you can buy for that price new these days.
@@FrenchyTube3 Well, engines are very reliable today. What kills the car is rust and electrical problems. No one will ever pay that money to replace a battery in a car worth 1000-2000 USD. The car will have so many other faults so it is not worth it. I have had several cars. My parents too. People i know too. NO ONE have had trouble with the engine, but all the rest: Brakes, rust, electrical issues, paint, interior, suspension and so on. More and more fail, but the engine runs.
@@Xanthopteryx what I think you’re not grasping is the inefficiency of an ICE engine, sure they work, we’ve been making them for so long lol. People complain about panels gaps in teslas forgetting that they’ve barely been making cars for 2 decades and basically pulled off the impossible. Yet there’s already many 500k+ teslas and even million mile ones. Im pretty sure no car manufacturers were making million mile cars when they were just in production for 2 decades? Imagine how bullet proof and flawless they would be if they’d been around as long as GM & those other giants. You can’t tell me GM would still have a better product lol.
Amazing video, Ryan. I’m sold. Not just for Tesla but EV’s in general. I have a Kia Niro EV, this gives me hope for the battery to outlive the 100K mi warranty enough to sell it and trade up when I hit 100K on yr 3. (I drive a lot)
There are videos of owners who have trashed their Tesla's batteries. It's all about attending to good battery charging practices, especially where its subjected to intense summer heat.
One factor that goes unmentioned in these battery longevity/replacement debates is the possibility of replacing an old battery with one that uses significantly newer technology that could well result in much longer range than the original spec. In that context, paying $10k+ for a new battery would be entirely justified.
@@ricinroI had no issue with putting a bigger battery pack on my Tesla from Tesla itself during a warranty swap. I had a factory 85 kW and they said that battery was no longer being produced so they replaced it with a factory brand new 90 kW battery.
Except that it won't happen. Why would tesla do that? They'd rather sell a new car. And there are plenty of other part that will fail appart from the battery. Just check the leaking and bubbling screen on the model S
I have been critical at times of some of your vids for regurgitating MSM stories with no fact checking first. You should first question that story and check it before running out doing a "today in the news". This however, was very refreshing. CUDOS!! I found this very informative, well researched and put together, and enjoyable to watch. This channel should be more about this type of content, and not repeating the daily news stories. Again, Great Job! 👍👍
4:56 I believe 4,000 is pronounced “Four Thousand” instead of “Four Hundred Thousand”. You were talking about charging cycles and increased the number by two orders of magnitude for one million miles. Hopefully, teslas have a range exceeding 2.5 miles per charge. ;-)
Having worked in service for various auto manufacturers over 15 yrs typically 10 yrs or 100k miles is considered a life span for a vehicle. Anything beyond that point is considered a bonus and traditionally that's when more expensive components tend to fail.
I had a 2000 model Ford Taurus, brand new. It lasted to 158k miles and 15 years of use. It was still running but had numerous major issues. Sold it for $1200. Currently still have an '05 Chevy Silverado, bought new. It has 168k miles on it and 17 years of use. No major issues and no expensive repairs, yet.
@@trevorjameson3213 my current Honda accord I bought new is 2013 has 150k miles on it. I've done all the maintenance and repairs myself but honestly all I've had to do is basic maintenance. Cars can easily go passed 10yrs or 100k miles but manufacturers literally design cars to last that long, if they made the vehicles too well then they wouldn't get much business. Lol
Super curious about best practices and charging /maintenance habits to minimize battery degradation. What do we know about level 1 charging (trickle charging) vs level 2 charging vs Supercharging? Super curious and interested in ensuring long range with longevity on my upcoming Model Y.
Batteries degrade faster with higher charge rate, higher temps, and being left at a high rate of charge. There is a 2009 model s in Norway that still has 95% of the original battery capacity. This car has never been fast charged.
Taking a makers word for durability/reliability and especially from an entity with optimistic projections is highly questionable. Historically durability/reliability has not been a selling point for many a product. IMO, Toyota got their reputation over a period of decades from both the primary and secondary market. For a product to have a very long life the design needs to be conservative, the product will be bigger, heavier and more costly.
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The problem with Tesla is that TESLA only knows the data. NO third parties can repair a TESLA. Only Tesla knows how many batteries, brakes, repair work is done on a TESLA. This will have to change I'm sure when Tesla grows in the next few years because the government will step in.
claiming eco while selling leather.
greenwashing much?
the design looks awesome it's a shame to sully it like this.
Tesla saw the light, will Bellroy?
Hi Ryan
Could you make a video about getting Tesla in countries where they have 0 charging point and no Tesla dealer or Service Center? What problem I might face. Thank u
Dude you miss on mentioning the LFP Battery 🔋 it doesn’t degrade like the regular Tesla batteries
We've had our model S since early 2013 and had 220,000 miles on it. About 13% battery degradation
then why do people say Teslas are bad?
@@highlighterjelly because Teslas build quality isn't as high as some other brands but it's not unreliable.
@@daviidfm923 i see
My ICE car 250k miles. 0% degradation.
@@webguy943 I highly doubt that. Most gas cars loose efficiency over the years / miles.
170k on my model 3 with less than 7% battery degradation, zero dollars spent on maintenance outside of tires
Not even like, streakproof freezproof window washer fluid?
Can you give us an update one how it’s going plzz thanks
@crackerjuice75
How do you check for battery degradation?
@blueacquisitions7262 The car's maximum range decreases as the mileage goes up. Then you calculate, very simply, by what percentage the maximum range has gone down versus what it was when the car was new.
This all syncs with my experience. I've had access to and been using a 2018 Model 3 (Dual Motor) consistently for the past two years. Maintenance has been minimal. A 12v battery was replaced under warranty (that one is more important than you'd think). But brakes, tires, etc. all held up remarkably well. Compared to my BMW 325i, this car has been extremely low maintenance.
bmws are also big money wasters. they require TONS of maintenance haha so ur comparison is null
@@Donut-sw9ud I have two E46 (330 and 325). The 330 hasn't broke anything so far (at 200k miles) yet, but the 325 has blown a MAF. Luckily MAF are 20$ at the local junkyard. They can be pretty good so long as you treat them right and occasionally go out on long, fun drives.
My 2022 model Y has a new lithium ion 15 volt battery that has the same warranty as the drive battery. So that weak link is almost eliminated.
@@Donut-sw9ud It's a comparison of maintenance.
The Tesla did not require much, while the BMW did.
In what way is that null? Compared to any other vehicle his Tesla still did not require all that much done to it.
@@ThatOneCatNyx What about oil change? sparkplugs? brake plates, filters for the engine etc.
I've met tons of Model S owners with +350k miles on them with no issues! 🙃😃😄So twice the life of most cars and still running strong!!
@@jeremytine at least in a Tesla you are more than likely going to survive an accident compared to a Prius which is NOT a vehicle I want to be in during an accident lol
@@jeremytine wrong it has much less crashes per mile compared to other ai driving systems or fsd
@@jeremytine dude there are hundreds of articles stating why the nhtsa data is wrong please look it up
350k? That’s not common on any electric vehicle nevertheless ICE but not having issues is more incredible.
Doubt
I work in due diligence for energy storage. Some tips: low state of charge is generally good for storage (resting state-of-charge or rSOC between 20% - 40%). For LFP batteries (standard range new teslas) charge your battery to 100% every week or two so the software can recalculate range, but do not store at 100% for long periods of time. Only supercharge between 20% and 80% charge. Cycle count for a daily driver should be less than 1 full equivalent full cycle (1 EFC) per day, but standalone battery systems typically cycle 1x per day, so they are utilized more, and have a rated lifetime of 20 years. You should be able to get 20 years out of your battery with proper care.
I have 303,061 miles miles on my model X 100D. The car is incredible, still runs like the day it rolled off the lot (other than loss in battery capacity)
How much capacity loss have you experienced?
How much capacity left?
Damn...I avg about 6k miles a year. I world take me forever to get to 300k even if I bought used. I definitely get one used and just check for the health of the battery
@@mickee06don’t lie bro
@@flowfactory249 I work 15 min from my house and if I go out its with the fam in the honda odyssey. So personally don't drive a lot. Its 12 miles round trip to work and I have myself extra miles
My father in laws roadster went from 175 range (new) down to 166 after 14 years and that’s with all the old tech.
How many miles? Which state or region?
Wow!!🎉
Cars can last a REALLY LONG time if you properly do maintenance which very few people do.
Right
Well yeah but eventually you get to the point where the car isn't worth fixing anymore that's usually why most people decide to just get a new car around 150k-200k miles. For example my parents had a car that had 180k miles on it. It ended up breaking down and the cost to repair it would have been 6k in parts alone and the car was only worth about $2500 even though it had been taken care of the entire time they owned it. So they just sold it as is and bought a new car.
If you drive uber/lyft all day only tesla's last
The proper maintenance for a Tesla costs 20k
@@thesimplegig I drive people for a living through my small company, and do Uber on the weekends. I have a 2011 Rav 4 with 254k miles on it, mostly highway (about 60-70% I would say). I do full synthetic every 5k miles + Lucas oil stabilizer ($75 total per change), besides other preventative maintenance. Car is running absolutely amazing. Gear changes are smooth, burns very little oil. Of course it will need a major repair at some point. But I can totally see myself getting at least 350k miles off of it keeping this same maintenance routine. I plan on getting a Model Y afterwards.
The thing is the p85 only reached 1,000,000 miles with 2 batteries and 8 drive motors. that is really a lot when someone says "my car has driven 1,000,000 miles" they mean my car and powertrain has lasted 1,000,000 miles, not the car itself.
we gotta start looking at ev longevity from the perspective of on its original battery, and original motor because having the battery replaced is essentially like getting your ice engine replaced, and nobody goes around bragging about how long their car has lasted with a replaced engine after the original one went bad.
good, but still not ideal. a lot of improvement remains and i'm eagerly waiting to see how long a model 3 can last without a battery or motor replacement
Agree
Not exactly. The infamous Model S "motor replacements" were in fact motor servicings. The large induction rear motor (LDU) of the Model S developed a coolant leak of the rotor seal over time. Changing it required a motor removal. The Tesla Service Centers took out your motor and replaced it with a serviced one so they don't make you wait for the entire procedure.
Model S has the best engineered induction motor out there, according to EV Clinic Zagreb. They call Tesla King of the road, after years and years of repairing EVs. If you drive a non-Tesla, God help you - they say.
I just lost my modelS to an accident, it was one of the first 4000 built, when I got the car on Feb 8 of 2013, the projected range on a full charge was 271, just before the accident it was 258, after several full supercharger visits, I was thrilled with the the battery performance.
That's good to hear, but more importantly you're safe! I hope everyone else who might have been in the car is doing well. Tesla's safety is the #1 reason to keep driving it for so long for yourself and anyone else you transport in your car.
So dry 4ur losss I appreciate you sharing
That just sucks! Was the insurance payout reasonable?
4.8% battery loss in 8 years?
@@gnoxycat SORRY FOR THE LATE REPLY, I WANTED TO BUY OUT THE CAR AT 21K AND FIX IT, JUST LOVED THAT CAR. BUT THE INS SETTLEMENT WAS 45K, I THOUGHT THAT WA PRETTY RESONABLE FOR 10 YRS OLD , SO I BOUGHT A 3.
Trivia: 4:19 the image of the Tesla on a bridge.
This bridge is famously used endlessly by car manufacturers for product photos and videos of their cars. It's called the Sea Cliff Bridge located on the coast of Wollongong, Australia.
Along the side of it is a walkway covered all the way along in engraved padlocks with couples' names on them which is pretty crazy given it's a 600m long bridge.
good, its in Australia. I dread wrong-way drivers here in the US.
I’ve clocked just under 50k miles in 2 years on my LR Y and a full charge is now 298 (from 303) miles. I couldn’t be more pleased.
when you said FULL CHARGE. do you mean 100%?
how many percentage were you charging per charge? 80% , 90%?
What climate do you live in?
@@JohnDoe-ut3sz no full charge meaning 12%💀
I'm at 20k in 1 year in my M3P my full is 297 was 310.
That 30% loss before replacement only applies to Tesla warranties. It does not need to be replaced when it reaches 30% after the warranty expires. Tesla is just guarenteeing that you will have at least 70% remaining after 8 years
Definitely. For many owners who charge at home and use their car for commuting, even a 50% loss would only become an inconvenience if they had to travel a longer distance.
that’s the story of 1st gen Nissan Leaf owners
@@lucienromano3493 Loss of capacity often comes with a loss of peak power. On an Iphone, if your battery lost more than 70% capacity, you would see slow downs and random shutdowns while doing more power intensive tasks.
@@tqlla Agreed, but with an EV, it depends what you use it for. If it's a small city car used only for local trips, you probably wouldn't know or care about the performance loss until it was really severe.
@@tqlla iphones, when reaching high degradation of battery, were THROTTLED BY APPLE lol. And these electric cars have complex BMS Battery management systems inside.
Greatly differs from my experience. Had a 2019 Tesla Model 3. Two control arms broke with 50k miles. Charger port broke. Car's autopilot and corrective steering would randomly try to veer me into other cars over an imagined road obstacle that wasn't in front of me. Fuse was blown and driver's car window started rolling down while I was on the middle of the highway during a snowstorm. I needed to hold my finger on the window up for an hour and 25 minutes to make sure snow didn't get in the car. After parking the car wouldn't boot back up and needed to be towed to Tesla. I was charged $1,360, which I was able to argue down. A month later I brought the car in to check a torn cable in the steering wheel column, everytime I moved the steering wheel closer to me to drive more comfortably, I would get a turtle image and the car would drive slowly. Another $1,300+ fix. This doesn't include the time my trunk latch broke (which they fixed) or how long it would take the dealership to diagnose problems. I dreamed of getting a low maintenance Tesla, I got something that started giving me tons of problems even before the warranty ended and I could have only imagined what I would've ended up with should I have elected to keep the car. Loved the car when it worked well, but overall dissatisfied. Probably won't buy again.
My Toyota is from 2005 and I get notes on my car to buy it all the time. As inflation, mortgage and lease rates continues to rise, it will be interesting to see how society reacts to planned obsolescence and the idea that companies keep pushing us out from ownership altogether. I want to see model 3's at the 20 year mark and their market value
Omg you are one of the few who actually gets it! Hats off!
Its really only a matter of time before planned obsolescence hits EVs. Though I have a feeling there will be breakout car companies that will make far more simplistic EVs which would make it easier to circumvent any of that.
What model Toyota?
@@ppumpkin3282 I've had 3 2wd and 4wd 4runners that have gotten notes on them through the years. I currently have a 2wd one. The 2001 4runner I sold during pandemic got over blue book value and CarMax offer from private party. One thing to note though... I heard kbb now is owned by car businesses that sale and buy cars now; it is not as objective and has vested interest to manipulate price perspective on vehicles
Moving the goal post?
Honestly if you don't mind the reduced range the battery can last as long as you want.
Not really. After 30% degradation you get massive problems with balancing between the packs. also the risk that one or more cells get to fail is much higher and at the end the whole pack dies because some cells died. Its mostly not the whole pack that dies but some of the individual cells.
@@nicoleibundgut534 each cell is fused individually, if a cell shorts out it just disconnects from the whole pack.
Nop, the cooling system can also clog/fail, the electronic fail, and so on... most replaced batteries under warranty are not due to a loss of range, but to a complete failure.
3 million miles on volvo p1800 is highest I recall if I recall correctly. It was well past one million for sure. I was especially impressed because I got one myself old and used as my first car I didn't share with sister and it lasted nowhere near that. That guy obviously took very good loving care of his car.
If you read up about it he did hella maintenance, a few rebuilds, and a super blank check situation
Doesn't count if the engine was changed, which is usually the case
@@theepicricemaker6611 The same engine. The same gearbox.
@@ypaut Original engine and gearbox.
More. 5.150.000 kilometers, then the original owner (bought it in 1966) died, in 2018. Volvo bought the car and are still using it, aiming for 6.000.000 kilometers.
My tesla model 3 battery began at 265 mile range and is now down to 220-225 mile range in 20,000miles and 2 years. That is roughly a 15%-17% battery degradation. If it continues to degrade this badly I will definetely be on track for a valid warrantied battery replacement.
How do you set your charge cycles? Do you allow it to go under 20%?
That's normal for the rwd, 200 miles on 90%
your car is normal , and your car is in the typical battery degradation track. the car in the video is not normal because that this car battery is very special good. The cars in this video is called as prototype Tesla car, first manufactured cars that were made of premium hi end Long life battery.
@@eddiechen5460 No it is not normal, about 3 months ago I got a warning on my Tesla so I brought it into the service center and they ended up replacing my entire battery due to the severe battery degradation. They ended up giving me a "refurbished battery" and this battery holds a consistent 230 miles and hasn't degraded at all in the 3 months I've had it. It's still not at 100% battery capacity (265 miles) but atleast it isn't dropping anymore.
Have you had Telsa take a look at the battery health? There may be another issue brewing.
Batteries have a calendar life, and will expire even if unused. All of this mileage discussion needs to be tempered by how many years before the battery needs to be replaced. With 8 year warranty I expect to get 10-12 years before battery replacement if I am not unlucky. Storing the car in a cool environment and at 50-80% SOC will help, and it might be possible to get 20-25 years of battery life.
Yes, I wish someone would do a video on the economics of an EV us low-mileage drivers.
One big thing many vloggers/tesla owners forget to mention of having an electric car other than financial savings is the convenience of not having to go for frequent brake replacement or any fluid/oil changes. These all require your precious time....most ice owners must do.
Wouldn't really call brakes "frequent" considering they last 50k miles or more but having regenerative braking on an EV certainly helps
I'm actually the owner of that "424k mi" Model S from The Drive article (now the car us at 434k mi).
Unfortunately, like lots of articles, they left out a few bits of info, and made some additional assumptions. As of right now, the car still retains its 2nd pack (approaching somewhere in the neighborhood of 180-190k mi), and has ~87% capacity compared to new.
Not mentioned in the article (though I believe it was addressed in the video the article was about) is that the front drive unit was actually replaced, though not until ~375k mi. The rear drive unit is still original to my knowledge.
Also worth noting, I purchased the car from its original owner in Sept of 2020, at which time the car was nearly exactly 5 years old (build date of Aug 2015). At that time, it has 408k mi on it, which means the previous owner (who used the car for Uber full time) put on an average of 82k mi per year!
I'm actually planning on making an update video on the car soon (and also have a few others posted on my channel). It is my daily driver, and I actually just got back from a ~2500mi road trip with it earlier this week!
I actually work on these cars for a living (at a 3rd party shop, not for Tesla), and there are definitely some versions of the S that are much more problem prone that others, particularly the early models, and pretty much anything that has a Large Drive Unit (RWD or Performance).
Thanks for the update and thanks for giving EV owners another place to get repairs done. The more the merrier.
Yes good to hear 3rd party independent Tesla service options exist for the older cars.
Please do an update video
@@Joe_-_-_ update video has been posted!
I drive a 2014 model S and do rideshare with, it has 208,000 miles on it. I did my 1st brake job this week, brakes and rotors, what other car can go that far on a set of brakes? I also had to replace the drive unit, or motor for the 3rd time. First 2 times were under warranty, this one cost me 6K. I'm hearing the 85KW battery is tough on the drive unit. Not sure why, but I won't be buying another Tesla with that battery in it. Anyway looking to upgrade to a model X, while waiting for my Cybertruck.
My Signature MX P90D with 236K+ is running great. Only lost 13% of it’s original 250miles with 8yrs/unlimited miles and still on the factory brakes. My biggest expense was losing the HVAC for the battery and cabin. I never charge the car to 100%. And 85% of my miles are supercharged. I will 17:24 own another ICE. Waiting on my Cybertruck!
As a Gen 1 Nissan Leaf owner (experiencing massive battery degradation >50% after
The batteries used in the current Nissan EV offerings are much better as are the ones used in all newer EV's.
IMO, Tesla does offer good battery/drivetrain, but a terribly designed actual car. When Elon goes to jail, if Tesla goes bankrupt, I think whatever company picks it up will have MASSIVE market advantage. Or if those in Tesla are able to restructure and keep the company alive, without Musk's poor management, they may create decent products then
@@ArsonistArboristcare to elaborate?
@@workaccountonly the terrible car part or Elons mismanagement part?
My experience is a bit different. I have a 2018 Model 3 with 80,000 miles on it. Repairs are almost non existent with control arms being the only thing so far for $250. I replaced the tires twice. While that is good, my battery degradation is on the bad end of any normal curve. When new I had a 310 mile range. At one point it went as low as 267 miles or a drop of 14%. I was told by Tesla as well as several RUclipsrs like Kim Tesla to run the car down below 10% charge and then charge to 100% to recalibrate the battery management system. There are some differences as some say when it is very low, leave it there and ping the car regularly for an hour and then charge it at a level 2 charger. Once it hits 100% do the same as far as pinging or opening the door to wake it up for an hour before driving it to get down to 90%. I did that 5 times and the range increase to 281. That was a bit over a year ago and now it stayed at 280 for awhile and suddenly dropped to 272. So I am down 12% after 4 years and 80,000 miles. Tesla service has said to expect 5% the first year and 1% each year afterward. I am nowhere near the 30% for battery replacement but it does have an effect on my 750 mile trips to my daughter especially in the winter. Does anyone know of other things to do to help?
I am *not an expert. But it sounds like you could have one or more cells that are misbalanced relative to the rest of the pack. If one or more cells never reach full charge, it will hold the entire battery pack voltage lower than 100%.
It seems to me, that taking it to 10% did have a positive effect - that's an indication your troubleshooting was in the right direction.
My thoughts: Do the pack balance procedure down to 5%, if range improves - it can more accurately calculate where 3% is....then do it down to 3%....after that, you could do it down to 2 or 1% or decide you're happy with the results. To be extra safe, you could choose to take it to 10% first, then do the 5% run and 3% run since the battery range has changed since you last did it.
One more thought, you could have a cell or cells that leak voltage more than the rest of the pack. This would indicate a small internal short, perhaps not catastrophic, but enough for it to self discharge more than the other cells causing your pack to unbalance. It might be a good idea to balance your pack quarterly, that is - take it as low as you can and up to 100% on a level 2 charger. This will keep that cell and all the others in good health. This scenario is like a leaky tire. You can have a small leak and get the entire advertised tread wear out of that tire if you keep it properly inflated. it just takes a little extra effort / maintenance.
usually in every 6 months its recommended to get your battery to 0% only using AC, and then charge back to 100% on slow charger twice, this is mostly a 2-3 days job, but your battery will get way better for sure
This actually put a lot of my anxiety at ease about owning a vehicle I know close to nothing about. Even after all of my research that I've done to try to convince myself into owning an EV.
The main parts of the vehicle was never my concern other than the battery. The information provided in this video and with other research done via the internet about factual research documents backing these claims. I feel owning an EV is just the cost effective thing to do.
@@nickb654 The decision is only made through emotion. Facts and data brings confidence into said purchase.
Guys, the ceiling fan in my home is older than me. 39+ years (0 repairs).
The iPhone 7 that I bought for my dad in 2017 had its first battery failure in 2024 (Dad replaced battery and using now) Tesla’s battery warranty is 8 yrs. The chances of a vehicle breakdown after 5 yrs is very very high for a ICE vehicle regardless of how well you maintain it. Moreover in 5 yrs there would be batteries would be cheaper with a less form factor. Who knows, the current model y can retrofit a battery pack which can take you 1500 miles per charge in future.
A friend’s Model S is almost up to 500k, and his costs have been a tiny fraction of an equivalent ICE car. (He’s a professional driver and on the road an awful lot.) He would never EVER go back to an ICE vehicle. He has had no MAJOR parts replaced, just things like door handles and a couple of suspension parts, and just ONE set of rotors and brake pads.
And of course, he has saved a FORTUNE compared to the cost of fuel.
I've had my EV for 7 weeks and already saved $1100 in gas. It's insane
Wow that’s amazing does he do limousine service
@@jasonmangan3205 Yes, correct, mainly highway between regional towns and our capital city.
That’s amazing Tesla’s are the best cars on the planet in my opinion
That’s amazing Tesla’s are the best cars on the planet in my opinion
80k miles on my 2018 model 3 performance with standard aero rims and brakes. I have had no mechanical issues so far. Almost through my second set of tires, replaced the windshield twice, windshield wiper fluid once. Car charges 130kw faster than it did when I bought it, and chargers are everywhere now. Range has decreased to 270 miles but the faster chargers and greater amount of chargers have made travelling far faster and easier than when I first bought the car. I figure at around 10 years I'll likely need to spend some money to replace some mechanical parts but dang this thing is cheap to operate.
EV is like a computer. It either works or it breaks. Mechanical things have a “semi-working” aspect like a engine running on 5 cylinders instead of 6 or a squeaking fan that runs perfectly fine. This means once it breaks, you NEED to fix it. You can’t just “run it broken”. The positive is that if it doesn’t break, it doesn’t break. It’ll keep going.
mab all ice cars have compiters in the car, they are called acu, like 5 or more. My bmw and gmc are filled wirh this things that break and coat up to $3 in some cases.
In this respect they are similar to SSDs. I always say, if you can read and write a TB to itself and it goes 3 months, it'll likely last next to forever. With a conventional hard drive, you never know!
Best insight and explication I’ve read
EVs are closer to that ideal than ICE cars but they’re far from solid state, so even the solid state components can be affected by movement/insulation wear/electric shorts that would present intermittent symptoms and likely lead users to believe “this car is a pos”. That’s just one example, among many I can think of and likely more I can’t.
computers are not cars, they should not be.
1:15 My Tundra is about to hit 300,000 miles. I have both the F150 Lightning and Tesla Cybertruck on pre-order to replace it. I hope they pull my number before anything happens although I am told its a million mile motor. The engine has been maintained really well since new (have all paperwork) so maybe I am good.
Honestly if you got those trucks to do truck stuff your better off with ice or diesel ev trucks are trash
Alright y’all convinced me. I’m going down to Tesla and talking to them about getting one and how it would work with my ICE car as trade in or if I should private sell. I was most worried about battery replacement and warranty. This makes me feel much more confident. Also I’m currently renting a model 3 standard as my Toyota is in the shop getting repaired for carbon build up ($952 bill) and using it for Uber.
There have been scores upon scores of diesel and petrol cars that were almost expected to die before 100k kms, one that comes to mind it the GU nissan patrol, where if you made it past 60k kms without the engine going pop you had a good one
One of the leaders on Tesla videos, you are. Thank you fro all the detailed information.
Thank you for the video! In comparison to Tesla costing $0.05/mile for maintenance, in 2012 a bough a new Honda Odyssey and it cost me $9,921.21 to drive 146,575 miles or $0.07 per mile (no accidents and all maintenance done on time per manufacturer warranty at a Honda dealer). Looking seriously into getting a Tesla next.
I have a 2015 Model S P85DL with 178,000 miles and have only lost 10% of range after almost 200,000 miles. I have zero concerns of the battery going bad. They did replace the rear motor at 160,000 miles under warranty. I absolutely Love the car and could never go back to an ICE car. Excellent video, thank you so much for sharing!
How many miles you at now and how’s it going?! Looking into getting one maybe the model 3 long range
@@Whathadhappenedwasss 188,000 miles currently and still has only degraded 10%, New 252, now 225. Haven't had any issues in a very long time. The Model 3 has much better motors that last forever.
The Tesloop data was the most useful and inspiring for me as new Tesla owner. It's good to know that beating the battery like that still lasted nearly 200K. If you are any bit more careful, you should be good imho. Obviously the more ideal you treat your car the better. Best
I abused by 1990 Honda Accord for ten years. I put 325,000 on it and it would still be running today had a tractor trailer no t totaled it in 1999. I had to replace a few clutches snd breaks but it never broke and never left me stranded.
Cars have only improved and if I bought a Tesla I could easily see at least over half a million miles.
Thanks for doing the research and making this video. I think I suggested this a while ago and I’m happy you did it. Definitely something that a lot of people should share with friends who are skeptical of electric vehicles for his overall heat them for no reason.
2018 Model 3 long range here. It has 110k miles, original battery and about 4% degradation right now. I do about 50k miles a year now so I'll know in the next few years how many miles I'll get out of this battery.
Did you have to replace the 12V battery? Would you wait till you get an alert that you need to replace it? Have you done any brake fluid flush or pad replacement?
@Trust but Verify No I haven't replaced the 12v. I might go ahead and do that before it goes bad.. thanks for the reminder. I very rarely use the brakes because i keep regen on the highest setting. The pads still look relatively new as of last year when i put tires on it. I generally leave brake fluid alone unless I have a problem or race a lot.
@@jeremiahsimon6594how many miles and how you liking it. Thinking about getting one.
Hey can you giv us any update thanks
@@steezyg3332 Turned 173,000 miles today. Degradation is about 9%. Zero issues! We have about 5,000 miles worth of road trips coming up this summer so we will continue packing on the miles. Should hit 200k some time this fall.
My battery failed at 15,000 miles but I am somewhat to blame because I didn't really focus on battery health at all leaving it plugged in everyday sending it to 100% without setting a limit thinking nothing of it. Tesla was super helpful though giving me a loaner car nicer than my car for the time being and replacing my battery under the warranty, everything was super easy.
I'd be interested to see how the LFP Model Ys perform with their deeper charge cycles. That 1 mil tesla reminded of the lumberjack's favorite ax, only had to replace the head 3 times and the handle twice.
LPF (lithium iron phosphate) cells can cycle 3000-5000 times. They will outlast the vehicle on average. Only drawback is less energy density vs li-ion. They either will have less range or a heavier/larger battery pack to match li-ion range. This is significant since li-ion are rated for 500 cycles maintaining 80% capacity
@@dasppg9737 are LPFs being used in part of the Model Y batteries today?
@@quaidcarlobulloch9300 I believe it’s being used in some of them. Primarily the lower range variants of the model y and 3. LFP is less energy dense than the li-ion NCA cells so won’t be used in long range variants
yes now
I’ve been a huge car guy since I was a young child. And I’ve been driving fun ‘daily drivers’ for the past few years with my most recent car being a Twincharged 400hp AWD Volvo S60 Hybrid. I recently placed my order on a Model 3 specifically for this reason. Fun cars are nice, but so are cars that last for a long time. My S60 would be lucky to clock in 200k miles and will likely cost me 5x as much as the Model 3 will (I drive 25-30k miles per year). Super excited to receive my Model 3
@@JY-lg6ee I only got the standard range model because I use it for my daily commute to work. I have a Saleen Mustang to satisfy all of my performance needs haha but I appreciate the tips!
@@MichaelReeves412 what does your delivery window look like, and has it been pushed back at all? Personally I have a m3 long range I ordered just 3 weeks ago. Original estimate said sept-dec, now it says nov-dec.
@@Shortskeez my estimate is Nov-Jan, but I only placed my order a few weeks ago. I have a second car that I’ve been driving so I’m not too worried about when it gets here
You know what the greatest surprise take-away I got from this video? Literally none of the 200k+ mi Tesla's you referenced mentioned having to replace the shock absorbers. Tires, yes, but shocks that last more than 100k mi on vehicles like these with the extra weight they carry seems extraordinary to me!
I'm currently at 193k and still on original shocks lol
Tesla uses Bilstien shocks which are a higher level than most OEM shocks. I have heard of control arm replacement
@@gtbigdog3507 I've replaced 3 upper control arms
@@skep2 what model?
@@gtbigdog3507 model 3 with 196,000 miles
We drive our Model 3 for 3 years and 125.000km now, without major maintenance. The costs were 2x new wipers, 1 set of 2 tires (!) And an interior air filter. So the costs are extremely low. Degradation is appr 5% now, but not noticeable. Yes I'm a very decent driver, always in Chill and 80% i charge slow at home. Never above 65% only for long trips i charge to 95%. This car is a miracle, the maintenance is so low compared with my former German cars on diesel and patrol, it's just fantastic. We will try and reach the 500.000 or more km.
Similarly to this video, my internet search shows Tesla’s body parts start breaking down after 100,000 miles in average. That’s pretty common in the car industry. Toyota and Hondas break less and last longer in average. I wish Tesla made better long lasting cars in terms of their body parts. I’m actually surprised it doesn’t. That’s why I’m not switching to Tesla yet. I hope they put some work into that. My Toyota has 400k miles and I have never had to repair one single thing in it, just regular oil change and breaks. I drive it off road a lot because that’s where I live and I push it pretty hard and yet it keeps on going.
This! I simply cannot follow when shopping for something luxury but it isn’t as reliable as some consumer grade examples out there.
The newer models with the structural pack and large gigacasting should solve these issues. Cybertruck should also solve this issue 😏
@@mikelevels1 It’s so puzzling as to why that is!
@@Gozi101 I hope so, but since Tesla’s track record is average on these issues, we’ll have to wait a few years to see if these new vehicles will actually do better. It’d be great to switch to Tesla especially since Autonomous driving level 4 should be here soon. We’ll see!
I am at about 80k miles in my hyundai ioniq, we really haven't noticed any difference so far. Happy with it still and will drive it until it goes down to 50% or less battery.
Also, in 2016, we took a ride from a Model S from the San Francisco airport to Santa Cruz area in the one of the first ones to reach 200,000 and have its battery changed. It was something that for us thinking more about a Tesla.
@carlosvelasquez5534 high degradation after being used as an ride service car.
2009 Toyota Camry hybrid still running strong at 250k miles. Have changed the front control arms and the AC evaporator. That’s about it!
Please keep us updated bc I’m truly interested! I own a Toyota hybrid too
cant' wait to see how the LFP ones will hold up
Much better since they're Iron based. Much more stable than Lithium and cheaper to build.
I'll be dead before the LFP batteries give up.
That was not Total Cost of Ownership. You left out insurance and depreciation. I doubt that the several sets of tires could be purchased for the $1500 for maintenance. TCO Is every penny paid from purchase to sale divided by the mileage.
People act like normal cars dont hold up my parents both drive a mercedes and a toyota and both are at 850k miles without any big repairs. The trick is maintenance.
because they have parrts.... eletric cars dont have them.
Electric cars don't need maintenance
@@rkwjunior2298 HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH HE ACTUALLY BELIVE THAT name me good sir ONE just ONEEE classic eletric car iff their really last forever as you say
@miroslavraven1413 Nothing mechanical lasts forever. Some longer than others though
My 2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance has over 320,000 miles on it. It is allegedly on its second battery, but the rest of the car is in surprisingly good shape considering the mileage.
I drove my 1992 Civic for 21 years. After spending $1,400 on a used engine, transmission, radiator, hoses, etc. (that's $1400 total for all that plus other stuff I didn't list), I drove it another 10 years before it ever broke down for any reason. I parked it because of rust at 585,000 miles. It still ran like a champ and I still own it. The last repairs cost me some thing like $4 for a switch and $12 for a brake cable. My current car is a '97 civic with low miles, and it should last me a long time. That's the thing about these electric cars. I'm all for them, but with an older gas car you can fix just about anything for less than $100 if you have tools. Electric cars will need less work, cost less to fuel, but those enormous repair bills are murder. I get that the average person can't fix their own car, but that's only because they don't try.
Your Civic is a unicorn. High mileage EVs, and Teslas in particular will be the norm, not the exception.
I do repairs on cars and you are absolutely incredibly lucky to have an engine that you replaced for only $100 .where in the hell did you find that. A used engine from Japan like I’ve replaced in a couple cars is at least $500. still somewhat incredulous that you have not spent money on repairs on your car.
@@glenncornwall4331I think there is a bit of exaggeration in this story. Also, clearly they did not pay for any labor nor factor their time in the cost. Replacing engine for a regular Joe Schmoe is going to cost a lot in a mechanic’s labor fees
@@deemanDavid yes, I totally concur.👍
@@glenncornwall4331 It's been awhile since I did that work, but I said $1400 to replace ALL SORTS of stuff beyond just the engine for less than half of what they want for just the touch screen in the tesla. The $100 is from any typical break down I might have with an older Civic. Alternator, ignition module, fuel pump, starter, wheel bearing... None of that stuff is any more than pocket change.
Thank you for the video, I just bought my Tesla 3 long Range, and driving about 450 miles a week that will be about 62000 miles a year. I hope I will get good use of this vehicle. Wish me luck.
I think your math is off just a little bit...
I am sorry 1250 a week I drive then my math is good
@@JagtarShergillPodcast it's all good, and if you drive that much, you will be our of warranty in less then 3 years, that's a pretty big gamble to take if you ask me.
Get a Toyota
Thanks for the data Ryan. Great the hear confirmed what I already know, A friend with a 2014 Model S has over 200K miles on the car and has no plans to replace it. The free supercharging for life offered with those early models makes long term ownership very attractive. BTW, that car still looks and drives great with no major component repairs or replacements.
Good video I'm working on trying to get me a model y but as off right now I have a 2005 4runner with 379325 miles on it and still running strong 💪
Outstanding info and superb video! Thank you, Ryan! I’ve already shared your video too!
I'm at 142,000 in my 2018 model 3. Full HV battery scan shows around 9% capacity loss (using kWh capacity available not mile estimate).
Only significant repair is I had my steering column swapped ($1200) at 139,000 as a gear ⚙️ wore out and it was getting stuck.
12v battery was $80 swapped myself, wheel bearing needed swapped for $120 at 95,000.
But that's really it. Original brake pads still and I'm on my 5th set of tires.
Fantastic news.
We got our 2022 Model Y 2 months ago and love the car.
Traded in a 2002 Toyota 4Runner with 160,000 miles that was in need of at least $10,000 of repairs to make it whole. (Got 20% of the original sticker price for it! at a dealership that really wanted it)
Hope the Y lasts us 20 years which is the normal time we own our cars.
Last of the 3rd gens!
As someone who currently drives a Lincoln and wants to get a Model 3 instead, I agree with the statement at 11:00
Interesting. I have a 2021 Model 3 Long Range. Originally quoted at a max range of 353 miles, kw when I charge to 100%, I get between 357-358 miles... the only vehicle I have ever owned that got better milage over time!
Mine is opposite, I have 2 model Y one is 2021 November and second 2022 June. Now when I get 100% on 2021 I get 312 miles now(14,000 miles in 9 month) when I get 100% on my 2022 I get 320 miles. Both charging to 80% and both don’t go below 20% live in Florida (not like in Alaska) never used supercharger. Will see where it will take me, planing to put 40,000 miles per year!!!
@@JY-lg6ee I need charge to 80 because by the time I am done I am at 30%, therefor I charge daily driving over 100 miles per day
@@JY-lg6ee at 80% I am 246 miles if you decide it by 0.8 you get 307.5 ; so there for you get your answer
@@JY-lg6ee second Y 2022 is at 259 at 80% so if you divide it by 0.8 = 323 means still good (4000) miles
2013 Prius plug in with 375k on it. Original battery still holds excellent charge. Head gasket had to be replaced because of failed water pump at 220k. Car still runs perfect. What’s left out is at this mileage all the bushings and suspension is worn out so car is close to the end of its life.
I lost 1.5% charge capacity in < 1 month on new model Y with 7500 miles of cross country traveling (9000 total) and supercharging to 90 to 95 % due to crappy facilities at TX superchargers and trying to skip the bad ones. Thankfully usually charge only at home and won't make such a trip again until supercharger network goes from making such trips possible to making them nearly as stress free as driving ioniq cross country the year before. Learned a lot about finding charger info and using autopilot to make next trip less stressful though and return legs N to S and E to W were much more relaxing. Didn't notice any loss over first 1500 with almost all home charging with most basic charger.
The loss is not linear, it flattens out over time and it will take a very long time to lose another 2%
I wonder how you measured that loss. the numbers on screen are only BMS estimates (even if you connect some OBD, you're getting BMS readings), after good charge/discharge cycles you can get range "back". to truly know the loss you'd need to disassemble battery and check each cell individually. pretty sure the actual loss is not even at 1%. That's the problem for all those articles, real loss is only known by Tesla when they do replacement/repair and can actually measure things
Other way to measure practically would be to make same driving test in same conditions on same track every few hundred miles. But again, this needs to be controlled environment as anything can impact the range
@@pauliusvindzigelskis2224 - thanks for the tip. I am simply dividing the miles of range listed by the % charge listed and comparing it to the original range of 328 which initially matched. At home I charge back to 80% every night instead of letting get low after 15 to 25 miles of driving. I only have a 5 mph charger so that seems the most practical.
@@markeby6985 You should let the pack drain down to 20% whenever possible before charging it back up to 80%. For many Tesla owners, they average 50 miles a day usage, so that would allow 3-4 days of driving (depending on driving habits and climate/weather) between charges.
Think about it, if you owned a gas car, would you refill the gas tank every day even if you only did 50 miles? Most people wouldn't.
With that said, at least once or twice a month, drain the battery pack as low as you can (5% or less is a good number), then recharge it to 100% without using a supercharger. It you don't have a 240v charger at home this night take you a while to do. Anyway, this will help maintain peak battery performance and extend the pack's estimated life span. Try and limit the supercharging to when you really need it (like really long trips). This is the same thing Apple suggests owners do to get the most out of a new iPhone/battery.
@@markeby6985 your BMS only knows it's capacity at high charge, not low, it is out of sync. You need to let it discharge to lower than 20%, leave it be for at least 6 hours before plugging back in. That way your BMW will know actual capacity and after doing this several times you will start seeing range "climbing back". Actual real world range shouldn't change and as I said before, it is probably more around 1% loss
I had same "issue" as Yours when had SR+ and always tried keeping at 80% because of low charge speed. Now I have LR and do this low charge recalibrate thing once in a while and I barely noticed any range change after 16k miles
I own a Tesla model Y long range and drive it in chill mode and use maximum regenerative break. This will reduce the tire and break replacement.
I'm at 118,000 with my M3 LR, so I'm approaching that 120k.. Full charge went from 307 miles to 288 miles. (Edited as I misspoke the first time) I had to replace the Upper A-arms on the front for $701 and had to replace them around 60,000 miles; and rear cost me $600 around 110,000 miles. No other big issues.
Struts cost you 1000? Damn. You mean suspension struts? That's very costly
@@teem5642 upper control A-arms. Cost me $701. I edited my comment above.
Longevity is not just how much you traveled in a few years.
Longevity is combined how much you traveled and how many years it is operational on the road.
Manufacturers today will be willing to make you travel as much as you want in 8 years (within warranty) but will not live past 30 -60 years which was common for ICE cars from the 60s to 90's hence why they want to brick your cars like the mobile phone industry. Once you stop updating (hind because they don't do updates or want to update it) and no longer support with parts they designed to break, you will brick these cars in the 15 to 20 year mark.
I have 122k+ on my M3P with minimal cost to service. Most were covered under warranty. No brake replacement yet. I’ve replaced the 12v on my dime once. And the driver seat frame is being replaced tomorrow for rocking at a cost of $500.xx or so. The biggest issue is flats and bent wheels as I have 20” low profiles but that’s not the cars fault. And the bumper was painted from someone hitting the car in a parking lot that was never caught. Original pack gets 282-285 mi at 100% originally 310.
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I've seen many toyota tacoma's and other toyota's like the camry go to 1,000,000 miles and are still running on the road.
Forget toyota.
Toyota reaches 1 million miles
1960s Volvo P1800 reaches 3 million
Warranties come standard with a new Tesla. You can also extend the warranty to much longer for only $1,800. By the time your warranty expires you’ll probably be in the market for a new car anyway. These maintenance cost are virtually only an issue if you don’t buy your car through Tesla or you void your warranty.
Wow excellent diagnosis on the EV Experience Thank You
Awesome video, very impressed with information 👏.
Thank you.
Ask your audience to check if they can get 1 cent/kW from their utility on Super off peak charging like we do with Georgia Power. A full year of driving for about $50.00 instead of $4,000.00 or more.
Tesla's are great cars and very reliable but i do hi voltage repairs and the cell imbalance is a common issue and tesla update stop car charging. I see people supercharging constantly damages battery very fast. Charge it at home...
I'd like to see what the "average" battery life is over time so that we can predict how long a modern battery should last. So far, my only costs for my MYLR has been charging. I haven't even hit tire rotation/replacement territory yet - nearing 10k miles. So far, I have had in-warranty work done (seat bottom repair and window/seal adjustment/reset). If I can get double my warranty period, I will be super happy. Long battery life is important because not everyone can afford to buy new cars, so folks will expect cars to last several years for each owner. I bought my first car with over 100k miles on it and it lasted for over 5 years (finish high school and all of college, into my first year post-college work). I think EVs will have "arrived" when the same feat is both possible and common.
The number of miles driven by just one owner in this story shows what you are looking for since most WONT drive a car for that long but if a car is sold to others each owner can drive it with confidence.
I've had my 2022 model 3 LR since Dec 2021 and I haven't noticed any battery degradation yet. Honestly it usually takes me 55% of the battery to pick up my daughter 150 miles round trip. It only took 50% the last trip 😆
Wow, that is a really short range. I would be forced to stop for recharging all the time. Guess EV:s are not for me
@@thoos192 it's almost as good at your typical 4 cylinder. Plenty for a daily commuter
Older motors before 2018 seem to have high failure rates. A friend of mine had two motors replaced on his S. New motors seem to have much higher reliability. I imagine reliability is being driven up with each failure investigated.
Getting closer to 500k miles 😊
An electric engine doesn't clog itself with carbon buildups/sludge after a long time. ICE are pretty much always going to get messy and clogged eventually and if you ripped them apart or cleaned them perfectly they'd also laster longer, but it doesn't really negact the fact that electronics are a cleaner way to operate.
It's something I've noticed with phones, game systems and other electronics. They almost never have a reason to break so long and they don't get too hot. No mechanical parts means no mechanical wear and no fuel combustion means no sludge.
Electric motor *
An electric engine is a contradiction
Electronics, especially power electronics do break down.
I had my battery go bad on my 2019 MX with less than 65000 miles. Based on that experience I would not purchase a Tesla that did not have warranty left on the battery. I also have a MS 2017 with 87,000 miles and everything has been good so far.
I’m shocked to see no regular replacement of suspension or control arms. Pretty wild.
The problem is who is going to give you a decent price on an 8 year old ev when the battery could (in theory) pack up at 9 years. it's true to say that a car engine could do the same but ICE cars have been around for a lot longer and if the engine fails it rarely leads to needing a new engine costing £12,000 plus. I have nothing against ev's and at some point will probably get one but still unsure. there is a Carwow video about a Zoe car with only 46,000 miles that is only 11 years old, now only gets 59 mile range. My old (2007) Golf is very tatty but still goes over 500 miles on a full tank. I still think the Tesla is the best EV Though and will propbably be my next car. Like your videos Ryan.
2012 Tesla owners: "200K miles in 10 years, I'm so proud!"
2017 Prius LA delivery/cab driver: "My odometer stopped at 400k few years ago..."
Imagine having to drive a Toyota 🤮
@@jkacvbhijfn If you are not driving any luxury high end cars all the other ones are the same shit... Don't be proud of your Tesla... lol
@@jkacvbhijfn imagine bashing a Toyota, a car far more reliable than the bullshit Tesla has been crapping out. 🤮
@@marcoserbach1468 May me the case of now but atleast we dont sit on fabric seats that are so uncomfortable.
@@TFSIChristmas Sorry to tell you but that’s not leather! It’s a plastic "eco-leather" over an cloth seat! You been fooled your entire life! LOL
How come no price was stated for the replacement of any of the model S batteries that weren’t under warranty?
The interior should stay nicer just because of cabin overheat protection. Heat damage is common in cars. If my Tesla battery lasts the warranty I'll consider that a good enough deal for the price of the car and what I've saved on oil changes, gas, and other maintenance. And even if the battery is degraded I can still drive the car and just charge it more often, if my transmission goes out in my gas car the range drops to zero and stays there until I fix it.
Interesting analogy!
@@ADE-of-LAGOS Two years and 25,000 miles on our Tesla Model 3 and the only maintenance was the cabin air filters I just installed for $60.
My Chevy suburban is 13 years and 300k miles still doing great
Even at the extreme 30% degradation the car would be very useful. When an ice motor goes out it needs a complete rebuild at best.
An ICE engine rarely goes out. A colleague of mine sold his car after 500.000 km. Petrol car. He really really did not do proper maintenance on that car...
It still worked when he sold it.
@@Xanthopteryx thats a pretty rare scenario considering most cars that arent properly maintained don’t even last half as long. Just accept it, EV’s will last longer on average there’s infinitely less moving parts, cheaper to maintain and when the battery does go out in 10-15 years you can get a brand new one put in for 15-20k at most and you can go for another 10-15 years. Not many cars you can buy for that price new these days.
@@FrenchyTube3 Well, engines are very reliable today. What kills the car is rust and electrical problems.
No one will ever pay that money to replace a battery in a car worth 1000-2000 USD. The car will have so many other faults so it is not worth it.
I have had several cars. My parents too. People i know too. NO ONE have had trouble with the engine, but all the rest: Brakes, rust, electrical issues, paint, interior, suspension and so on. More and more fail, but the engine runs.
@@FrenchyTube3 I think in 10-15 years a battery will cost a lot less than 15-20K.
@@Xanthopteryx what I think you’re not grasping is the inefficiency of an ICE engine, sure they work, we’ve been making them for so long lol. People complain about panels gaps in teslas forgetting that they’ve barely been making cars for 2 decades and basically pulled off the impossible. Yet there’s already many 500k+ teslas and even million mile ones. Im pretty sure no car manufacturers were making million mile cars when they were just in production for 2 decades? Imagine how bullet proof and flawless they would be if they’d been around as long as GM & those other giants. You can’t tell me GM would still have a better product lol.
Amazing video, Ryan. I’m sold. Not just for Tesla but EV’s in general. I have a Kia Niro EV, this gives me hope for the battery to outlive the 100K mi warranty enough to sell it and trade up when I hit 100K on yr 3. (I drive a lot)
There are videos of owners who have trashed their Tesla's batteries. It's all about attending to good battery charging practices, especially where its subjected to intense summer heat.
Thanks for good coverage about Tesla longevity.
One factor that goes unmentioned in these battery longevity/replacement debates is the possibility of replacing an old battery with one that uses significantly newer technology that could well result in much longer range than the original spec. In that context, paying $10k+ for a new battery would be entirely justified.
There could be challenges regarding backwards compatibility but great point and possibilities.
@@ricinroI had no issue with putting a bigger battery pack on my Tesla from Tesla itself during a warranty swap. I had a factory 85 kW and they said that battery was no longer being produced so they replaced it with a factory brand new 90 kW battery.
Except that it won't happen. Why would tesla do that? They'd rather sell a new car.
And there are plenty of other part that will fail appart from the battery.
Just check the leaking and bubbling screen on the model S
Yeah no, they will most likely give you a refurbished version of the same tech
I have been critical at times of some of your vids for regurgitating MSM stories with no fact checking first. You should first question that story and check it before running out doing a "today in the news". This however, was very refreshing. CUDOS!! I found this very informative, well researched and put together, and enjoyable to watch. This channel should be more about this type of content, and not repeating the daily news stories. Again, Great Job! 👍👍
4:56
I believe 4,000 is pronounced “Four Thousand” instead of “Four Hundred Thousand”.
You were talking about charging cycles and increased the number by two orders of magnitude for one million miles. Hopefully, teslas have a range exceeding 2.5 miles per charge.
;-)
Ok Mr perfect
🤣
102k on 2021 mdl 3 (145 m/day)……..tires and cabin filters…….tail light via warranty……… best vehicle I’ve owned
is the maintenance really low comparing to gas cars ? How many tire changes so far ? And Any other maintenance ?
Here's my question: are warranty battery pack replacements brand new assemblies, or are they "remanufactured" which would include a mix of used cells?
They are brand new batteries.
Having worked in service for various auto manufacturers over 15 yrs typically 10 yrs or 100k miles is considered a life span for a vehicle. Anything beyond that point is considered a bonus and traditionally that's when more expensive components tend to fail.
I had a 2000 model Ford Taurus, brand new. It lasted to 158k miles and 15 years of use. It was still running but had numerous major issues. Sold it for $1200. Currently still have an '05 Chevy Silverado, bought new. It has 168k miles on it and 17 years of use. No major issues and no expensive repairs, yet.
@@trevorjameson3213 my current Honda accord I bought new is 2013 has 150k miles on it. I've done all the maintenance and repairs myself but honestly all I've had to do is basic maintenance. Cars can easily go passed 10yrs or 100k miles but manufacturers literally design cars to last that long, if they made the vehicles too well then they wouldn't get much business. Lol
Super curious about best practices and charging /maintenance habits to minimize battery degradation. What do we know about level 1 charging (trickle charging) vs level 2 charging vs Supercharging? Super curious and interested in ensuring long range with longevity on my upcoming Model Y.
just put the limit when you charge to 80 percent or less on a daily use and put 100 only if you need to travel far
Batteries degrade faster with higher charge rate, higher temps, and being left at a high rate of charge. There is a 2009 model s in Norway that still has 95% of the original battery capacity. This car has never been fast charged.
Taking a makers word for durability/reliability and especially from an entity with optimistic projections is highly questionable. Historically durability/reliability has not been a selling point for many a product. IMO, Toyota got their reputation over a period of decades from both the primary and secondary market. For a product to have a very long life the design needs to be conservative, the product will be bigger, heavier and more costly.
We are almost at 150,000 on our 100D Model X. Still feels like a new car.