ALWAYS good to find someone who does quick , straight to the point, no frills tips. espesially with clear audio and video. great job. using your tips!!
Great video - Clear, concise, perfect amount of detail, great audio and video. And you included the tips and tricks. Thanks! I just glued up a big walnut top and I'm off try epoxy fill for the first time!
Thanks for the video buddy thinking about starting epoxy on live edge slabs thanks too you and everyone else that just puts out videos on anything and everything it helps eliminate some failures before you start things thanks again to you and all that make educational videos. TN Back woods Boy
If you liked this video check out my Epoxy River Coaster video! ruclips.net/video/5UggyQJsVHE/видео.html Also don't forget to subscribe! I'd really appreciate it! ruclips.net/user/walkerswoodworks
Great video! Thanks for the tip on filling the voids from one edge and letting it fill the bottom to remove air pockets. I was wondering why I was getting air trapped.
Yes! Finally a woodworker gets it right! No pigment needed as epoxy mimics the color below. There are a few exceptions when light will shine all the way through. Pigment or color ruins the look of a knot and discolors the surrounding wood but people do it. A couple tips that may save a project for you all when working with epoxy:Hardener into cup first when mixing! Run a torch (not a hair dryer as that can make waves) very quickly over the epoxy while its wet and air bubbles will expand and pop. For knots that go through to the bottom, tape the top and pour from the bottom, air bubbles rise. *Critical epoxy tip*. Always wash the epoxy between coats with hot soapy water and scotch brite pad. This removes the water soluble amine blush(waxy) that prevents bonding of a second coat of epoxy or even finishes. I got away with just sanding and re-coating for years until I didn't. Ouch! Sanding may work to remove blush or it may sand the blush further into your cured epoxy creating bonding problems and more fish eyes. West systems has some pretty good non blushing epoxies but if the moisture in the air and temp is just right(wrong) you can get amine blush and in it's most invasive form the blush can cloud the epoxy and prevent bonding. I know the washing is a bit of a pain because you need to let it dry before the next coat so the torch trick works great!. Another work around is to re-coat while the first coat is still tacky. The second coat will then chemically bond. Finally, wipe your project with acetone to remove contaminants and use rubber gloves after that. Finger oils want to rise and make fish eyes.
Nice tutorial. On the underside, could you use regular wood putty or Durham's Water Putty to seal the holes? It is way cheaper and faster than epoxy, and the underside will never be seen. No need for taping over the holes as you have to when using epoxy.
Yes you can if the putty is fully cured. Not dry but cured. Just make sure the putty is not visible from the top or you will see the color of it. If you buy in gallon sizes epoxy is cheap. US composites has great kits at a much lower price than West. 635 thin with 3:1 is great for wood..... but at the box stores those little kits are super expensive.
Can you use tung oil over the epoxy? I’ve got s tongue and Groove countertop I built for my camper. I have finished in tung oil and need to fill in the knots and gaps.
Great videos. Quick question. I see you pour epoxy on top and know some DIY guys pour on bottom What’s best practice for no bubbles even though we’d use heat to clear them?
Not sure if this has been answered or not but can you stain over it after? Im pealing the veneer off a table and it’s so hard to get off that I’ve gouged out a piece of the under wood, I’d like to try the epoxy but I also wanna stain the table.
Very nice, straight to the point video. I have an old table with two spaces between the planks, about 5 mm wide and 2000 mm long. They go completely through. Can I fill these up with resin in the same way as you do?
You could try. Not sure what the outcome would be though. The boards are probably anchored on the ends I'm guessing? If you do that then the wood may split because it has to expand and contract with the humidity in the room.
Great video. I'm planning on using table top resin to cover a bar top. Can I also use the table top resin with pigment to fill knot holes before I cover the top? Not sure if I need different type resin for knot holes and cracks. Thanks!
I'm refinishing an outdoor picnic table that's sentimental to my wife so want to get it just right. Will this method of susing epoxy hold up to the elements outside? Also, any suggestions on types of stains finishes for the table? I have Thompsons water sealer on hand as well. Thanks, the tutorial was great
It may have been asked but would I have issues with black epoxy staining the wood? All my bigger voids I coat in clear and then fill with black but I have some fine cracks that I obviously can't clear coat first. Thanks!
Great video and good tips! Thanks! I have a kitchen island made of reclaimed wood similar to what you have in the video. Whoever made it (already in the house when I bought it) used clear epoxy to fill in holes as you did, but missed quite a few of them or didn't fill them in completely. Any thoughts on what I could do now to repair those? Will new epoxy bond to the cured epoxy? I don't think there is any varnish on the wood, I think it's just a heavy wood wax.
Epoxy will bond with epoxy if you scuff it up. As far as it bonding with any sort of finish I'm not sure. You can contact MAS epoxies with that question and they can help you out.
I am a beginner at this, wanting to do my first project on walnut slab with some worm holes. Could u add a pigment to this, or should I just stick with clear? Eventually it is going to be a cutting board.
Great video. Not sure if this has been asked in the comments yet, but I have 6 boards that I am glutting together to make a tabletop. I've machined up the timber so its flat and square; it has a number of cracks and holes that I want to fill with resin - would you recommend filling these before or after I glue the boards together?
I ordered an (expensive) custom coffee table and it came with a sizable unfilled knot on the table top which is pretty annoying. Would this work on an otherwise finished table top?
That was a terrific presentation. I work on much smaller scale (musical instruments), but much of this applies. What do you use for the air gun? I've been using compressed air cans, but they do get expensive after a bit.
I apologize if this has been asked already. Can you stain over the epoxy After you apply the epoxy, let it setup, sand it and then blow the piece clean? Or will it not accept a stain?
I like these tips for the bigger cracks and voids. I'm wondering what you do with hairline cracks and also the edge of my cypress slab is pealing/flaking as I sand. Any advice? Thank you.
Will a polyurethane top coat work over top of that? I need to match this shelf to the rest so I have to pick a filler that will work best with the existing finish. No stain, polyurethane only. And thanks.
What grit of sandpaper do you usually use. My epoxy is curing now and I need hit it in the morning! I should have watch this before I started my island top...well done!
I have found that the clear epoxy will stain the wood around the cracks and it’s almost impossible to sand those stains out. What am I doing wrong here. Several projects I’ve had to plane down which made them thinner than I wanted them to be Thanks for any help with this
I’m building a small coffee table that has a big void on the bottom(about 3 -4 inches in diameter and about 1-1.5 inches deep) will this epoxy work well for that if so will it still be clear after filling a hole like that and if not any ideas what I should use that will not leave an ugly spot on the slab
For something like that I would use a slower setting eoxy such at the MAS Deep Pour, Polymeres Technologies Chill Ice 2 or Ecopoxy liquid plastic. It should be crystal clear when its done but you need to make sure its sealed really well because those epoxies are water thin.
Just finished filling in several knots with the same epoxy, and super happy with the results. However after sanding down, the epoxy has a very dull appearance. How can I get it to be clear again? The epoxy is clear and looks great right up until I sand. If I put more epoxy on top, it’s clear again. Not sure if I just need a topcoat of some sort
You have to put something on it to finish it. If you don’t want epoxy for the top, try some sort of oil finisher. I like Rubio Monocoat but there are a ton of different kinds
Great video, thanks for the info! It seems the pinholes are in darker areas so it may not matter, but do the spots with CA glue show through the finish? I thought I remember reading somewhere that CA doesn’t accept stain the same way epoxy does
Thanks for this video! I'm wondering if this would work to fix a crack in my pull-out cutting board. It's no fun to slice tomatoes or watermelon and have the juice go right through the cutting board and onto the floor!
Great video! I know this video is a couple years old now but I was wondering if you (or someone) could still answer my question. When you sand the epoxy down afterwards is it fine to just sand where the epoxy is? As a result it doesn't sand the wood down in that area more than the rest of the table? I'm just sanding mine down now and doing the entire table to keep it even and it's taking forever so I'd love to just spot sand but was worried about it. Thanks in advance!
I like the video and your suggestions, however I have another dilemma that I was wondering about. I am a woodturner, and I turn various bowls and other things on the lathe. Occasionally, I have cracks or holes and I want to fill them. I see from your video that it is a 2 or 3 step process, where you make a base, then add more epoxy, until you make it smooth. That will work on a round piece too. But what i was thinking of, was adding some colored powder to the epoxy, perhaps to make various colors in the wood piece itself, where the cracks are. Can that be done?
Any tips on how to do something similar to a table that is already stained? I recently purchased a new dining set and the table has the "rustic" look with nail holes and cracks where the wood pieces go together. I'd like to add something to get more life out of the table and not have things gather in the holes without having to sand it down and restaining it!
Be sure to check out my website for other Projects, Blog posts, Plans and Tools I use! Walkersww.com
Thank you
ALWAYS good to find someone who does quick , straight to the point, no frills tips. espesially with clear audio and video. great job. using your tips!!
My thoughts to. This guy was easy to listen to and rather enjoyable
Thank you! Finally a demonstration with minimal tools and clear instructions
Great video - Clear, concise, perfect amount of detail, great audio and video. And you included the tips and tricks. Thanks! I just glued up a big walnut top and I'm off try epoxy fill for the first time!
Thank you so much!
How did it go? Just want to know if I can trust this video or not
In glue and dust we put our trust!...
Thanks for the vid really interested in the epoxy resin fills and finishes. They really can be superb!
Good tip on using the CA glue for the pin holes. Great option rather than mixing up more epoxy.
It absolutely saves a ton of time!
Can you use CA glue for small cracks and gaps?
Straight to the point. You're very easy to watch. Thankyou
What grid sandpaper did you use to do the initial sanding, then what grits did you use to get to the final sanding. Thanks, great video.
I wondered the same thing should it be 220+?
Great video, and I'm really impressed with that sandpaper.
Nice job and very clear explanation 👍🏻. the tip about CA glue and accelerator is really clever. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Love the CA glue fill tip! Thanks!
Thanks for the video buddy thinking about starting epoxy on live edge slabs thanks too you and everyone else that just puts out videos on anything and everything it helps eliminate some failures before you start things thanks again to you and all that make educational videos. TN Back woods Boy
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Exactly the info I was looking for! Thankyou!!
the clear looks pretty good, kinda just takes on the colour around it. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tip of pouring in stages, didnt do this on my first pour and had a big ol' blue mess on my porch lol.
Haha me too
Thank you, you really helped with the tip on how to address the tiny (?) air holes.
Absolutely. Glad it helped and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the tips. I'm about to use this for the first time so it was awesome that you pointed out some of the pitfalls.
Awesome! Good luck.
If you liked this video check out my Epoxy River Coaster video! ruclips.net/video/5UggyQJsVHE/видео.html
Also don't forget to subscribe! I'd really appreciate it! ruclips.net/user/walkerswoodworks
I’ve seen our cabinet shops do a lot of scratch repairs on aircraft cabinet finish with CA glue too. It’s a great trick.
It has so many uses!
Great tip about the pin holes, I will give it a go and let you know if that sorts it, thanks.
Awesome. I'm sure it will work out great. Thanks for watching!
This is great. Just what I was looking for!
Glad it helped! Check out my other videos for more tips. 👍
Very helpful, thank you.
Great video! Thanks for the tip on filling the voids from one edge and letting it fill the bottom to remove air pockets. I was wondering why I was getting air trapped.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching! :)
Yes! Finally a woodworker gets it right! No pigment needed as epoxy mimics the color below. There are a few exceptions when light will shine all the way through. Pigment or color ruins the look of a knot and discolors the surrounding wood but people do it. A couple tips that may save a project for you all when working with epoxy:Hardener into cup first when mixing! Run a torch (not a hair dryer as that can make waves) very quickly over the epoxy while its wet and air bubbles will expand and pop. For knots that go through to the bottom, tape the top and pour from the bottom, air bubbles rise. *Critical epoxy tip*. Always wash the epoxy between coats with hot soapy water and scotch brite pad. This removes the water soluble amine blush(waxy) that prevents bonding of a second coat of epoxy or even finishes. I got away with just sanding and re-coating for years until I didn't. Ouch! Sanding may work to remove blush or it may sand the blush further into your cured epoxy creating bonding problems and more fish eyes. West systems has some pretty good non blushing epoxies but if the moisture in the air and temp is just right(wrong) you can get amine blush and in it's most invasive form the blush can cloud the epoxy and prevent bonding. I know the washing is a bit of a pain because you need to let it dry before the next coat so the torch trick works great!. Another work around is to re-coat while the first coat is still tacky. The second coat will then chemically bond. Finally, wipe your project with acetone to remove contaminants and use rubber gloves after that. Finger oils want to rise and make fish eyes.
That's alot of good stuff! Thanks!
When you sand it, there is a white dust though. How do you get the epoxy to be clear after sanding?
Nice tutorial. On the underside, could you use regular wood putty or Durham's Water Putty to seal the holes? It is way cheaper and faster than epoxy, and the underside will never be seen. No need for taping over the holes as you have to when using epoxy.
Dan Limbach I'm not sure. That would be something to try out. I'm sure it would work!
Yes you can if the putty is fully cured. Not dry but cured. Just make sure the putty is not visible from the top or you will see the color of it. If you buy in gallon sizes epoxy is cheap. US composites has great kits at a much lower price than West. 635 thin with 3:1 is great for wood..... but at the box stores those little kits are super expensive.
Great tip, thank you. Looking forward to trying this out. Made a big mess of mine the other day
Haha try, try again. I've made my fair share of mistakes as well.
Can you use tung oil over the epoxy? I’ve got s tongue and Groove countertop I built for my camper. I have finished in tung oil and need to fill in the knots and gaps.
Yes you can.
Awesome tips and great video! Thank you!
Thanks made it easy to get started
Very helpful. What grit do you use when sanding?
Thank you! Starting my project today.
Great! Good luck!
Great videos. Quick question. I see you pour epoxy on top and know some DIY guys pour on bottom What’s best practice for no bubbles even though we’d use heat to clear them?
I've never had luck pouring from the bottom. Not sure why they do that.
The tutorial is really helpful!
This is cool. I want to get a hold of some nice knotty, natural wood so I can try this. Can you stain over that stuff?
Yea you can but you will see it.
Ok first I love what you did and I thank you for sharing..
Can you tell me what sand paper you used and when I'm finished can I just polyurethane it?
Not sure if this has been answered or not but can you stain over it after? Im pealing the veneer off a table and it’s so hard to get off that I’ve gouged out a piece of the under wood, I’d like to try the epoxy but I also wanna stain the table.
Ya but it doesn't really effect the epoxy.
Great video. Definite help. Thank you.
Thanks!
Well explained! Great video, Brandon!
+Penalty Box Woodshop thanks man. Much appreciated!
@Walkers Woodworks what grit did you sand the first coat with?
Love the quick tip videos!
Thanks! I'll try to do some more in the future.
Very nice, straight to the point video. I have an old table with two spaces between the planks, about 5 mm wide and 2000 mm long. They go completely through. Can I fill these up with resin in the same way as you do?
You could try. Not sure what the outcome would be though. The boards are probably anchored on the ends I'm guessing? If you do that then the wood may split because it has to expand and contract with the humidity in the room.
Thanks! this is exactly what I needed for my projects !
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Would u need to polish the small cracks and holes ?
Thanks for this great video! What kind of tape are you using to seal the bottom? Thanks!
just blue painters tape works great
Good info Sir!
Can you add any finish over the top of the wood an epoxy? Like a spray lacquer.
Yes
Great video. I'm planning on using table top resin to cover a bar top. Can I also use the table top resin with pigment to fill knot holes before I cover the top? Not sure if I need different type resin for knot holes and cracks. Thanks!
Yes it works for that is just thicker. Heat it up a little with a heat gun so it will flow better. 👍
Thanks for the information 👍
I'm refinishing an outdoor picnic table that's sentimental to my wife so want to get it just right. Will this method of susing epoxy hold up to the elements outside? Also, any suggestions on types of stains finishes for the table? I have Thompsons water sealer on hand as well. Thanks, the tutorial was great
Great tutorial thanks!
Great Video, Bravo!
Thank you!
Love your videos thanks for the tips. What’s your opinion on tints/dyes in epoxy?
I use them all the time. 👍
Great video. Really helpful tips!
Gabe Buckner thanks! Glad it helped out!
Great video. Clear instruction... excellent close ups.
Thanks so much!
Thanks you! Very helpful
Great video, thanks for sharing!
DIYDadWorkshop thank you! Glad it's helping out!
What tape are you using to cover the holes ?
Sawdust works as accelerator as well. The reaction realeases a very noticeable amount of heat if you let it happen on your fingers.
thank you very much for this
Thank you for watching.
It may have been asked but would I have issues with black epoxy staining the wood? All my bigger voids I coat in clear and then fill with black but I have some fine cracks that I obviously can't clear coat first. Thanks!
Great video and good tips! Thanks! I have a kitchen island made of reclaimed wood similar to what you have in the video. Whoever made it (already in the house when I bought it) used clear epoxy to fill in holes as you did, but missed quite a few of them or didn't fill them in completely. Any thoughts on what I could do now to repair those? Will new epoxy bond to the cured epoxy? I don't think there is any varnish on the wood, I think it's just a heavy wood wax.
Epoxy will bond with epoxy if you scuff it up. As far as it bonding with any sort of finish I'm not sure. You can contact MAS epoxies with that question and they can help you out.
@@WalkersWoodworks Thanks!
I am a beginner at this, wanting to do my first project on walnut slab with some worm holes. Could u add a pigment to this, or should I just stick with clear? Eventually it is going to be a cutting board.
Great tutorial!
Thank you!
Thanks for posting man! Good tips in this video
KnottyDogWoodshop thanks for watching!
Great video. Not sure if this has been asked in the comments yet, but I have 6 boards that I am glutting together to make a tabletop. I've machined up the timber so its flat and square; it has a number of cracks and holes that I want to fill with resin - would you recommend filling these before or after I glue the boards together?
I do all my epoxy after I do the glue up.
I ordered an (expensive) custom coffee table and it came with a sizable unfilled knot on the table top which is pretty annoying. Would this work on an otherwise finished table top?
That was a terrific presentation. I work on much smaller scale (musical instruments), but much of this applies.
What do you use for the air gun? I've been using compressed air cans, but they do get expensive after a bit.
I apologize if this has been asked already. Can you stain over the epoxy After you apply the epoxy, let it setup, sand it and then blow the piece clean? Or will it not accept a stain?
Yes you can stain but the epoxy won't take it.
I stained the whole wood piece before and let sit for two days then epoxy the cracks and it was a clean look
how strong is it? could you drill and hang in such a spot securely?
Can you stain on top of epoxy without any issue? Or should the stain be done first?
Love it! I’ll doing this today!
Awesome!
I like these tips for the bigger cracks and voids. I'm wondering what you do with hairline cracks and also the edge of my cypress slab is pealing/flaking as I sand. Any advice? Thank you.
I use ca glue and activator for stuff like that.
Solid!
Will a polyurethane top coat work over top of that?
I need to match this shelf to the rest so I have to pick a filler that will work best with the existing finish. No stain, polyurethane only.
And thanks.
Ya poly works fine over it.
Like the tips. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Do you have this same video but with blue epoxy?
Great video. Love tips.
Annette Hauler thank you for watching!
What grit are you using to take down the epoxy? Thank you for the video.
I usually use like 100 or 120. Thanks for watching!
What grit of sandpaper do you usually use. My epoxy is curing now and I need hit it in the morning! I should have watch this before I started my island top...well done!
I just use like 120 or whatever I start saving the rest of it at.
Thank you
excellent
Is it safe to seal wood plates? Food grade?
Thanks man
I have found that the clear epoxy will stain the wood around the cracks and it’s almost impossible to sand those stains out. What am I doing wrong here. Several projects I’ve had to plane down which made them thinner than I wanted them to be
Thanks for any help with this
Thank you sir, you are excellent!!!
Thank you!
Great video! What kind of tape do you use in the bottom?
Usually just masking tape works.
I’m building a small coffee table that has a big void on the bottom(about 3 -4 inches in diameter and about 1-1.5 inches deep) will this epoxy work well for that if so will it still be clear after filling a hole like that and if not any ideas what I should use that will not leave an ugly spot on the slab
For something like that I would use a slower setting eoxy such at the MAS Deep Pour, Polymeres Technologies Chill Ice 2 or Ecopoxy liquid plastic. It should be crystal clear when its done but you need to make sure its sealed really well because those epoxies are water thin.
What grit sandpaper would you recommend
Just finished filling in several knots with the same epoxy, and super happy with the results. However after sanding down, the epoxy has a very dull appearance. How can I get it to be clear again?
The epoxy is clear and looks great right up until I sand. If I put more epoxy on top, it’s clear again. Not sure if I just need a topcoat of some sort
You have to put something on it to finish it. If you don’t want epoxy for the top, try some sort of oil finisher. I like Rubio Monocoat but there are a ton of different kinds
great video thanks
Great video, thanks for the info! It seems the pinholes are in darker areas so it may not matter, but do the spots with CA glue show through the finish? I thought I remember reading somewhere that CA doesn’t accept stain the same way epoxy does
+Geoff that could be true. I'm my experience stain doesn't do much to epoxy either way.
Thanks for this video! I'm wondering if this would work to fix a crack in my pull-out cutting board. It's no fun to slice tomatoes or watermelon and have the juice go right through the cutting board and onto the floor!
I've got a table that has gaps between boards due to the lumber shrinking. You can see through the table in places. Think this would work?
Great video! I know this video is a couple years old now but I was wondering if you (or someone) could still answer my question. When you sand the epoxy down afterwards is it fine to just sand where the epoxy is? As a result it doesn't sand the wood down in that area more than the rest of the table? I'm just sanding mine down now and doing the entire table to keep it even and it's taking forever so I'd love to just spot sand but was worried about it. Thanks in advance!
I do just the spot but you just have to make sure you keep the sander flat and sand the surrounding area some to blend it in.
@@WalkersWoodworks Alrighty thanks! I'll give it a go tomorrow :)
I like the video and your suggestions, however I have another dilemma that I was wondering about. I am a woodturner, and I turn various bowls and other things on the lathe. Occasionally, I have cracks or holes and I want to fill them. I see from your video that it is a 2 or 3 step process, where you make a base, then add more epoxy, until you make it smooth. That will work on a round piece too. But what i was thinking of, was adding some colored powder to the epoxy, perhaps to make various colors in the wood piece itself, where the cracks are. Can that be done?
My latest video gives some more epoxy tips. Maybe that will help. 🤷♂️
I find the resin stains the wood if it has set outside of the crack or void areas. Makes for lots of sanding to remove.
What grit are you using to sand the epoxy? Same as what the board is? My board is 220 right now
Yep! I usually go up to like 320 or so.
Thanks for the quick tip! Keep it up ;)
Thank you!
Any tips on how to do something similar to a table that is already stained? I recently purchased a new dining set and the table has the "rustic" look with nail holes and cracks where the wood pieces go together. I'd like to add something to get more life out of the table and not have things gather in the holes without having to sand it down and restaining it!
what grit sandpaper is best for sanding the epoxy?
I start with 80 to get it flat then just sand it with the wood as usual.
I use that flashing tape used for exterior sheathing, hasn't leaked on me yet.