How-To Replace the BOTTOM of a Car Door - Rust Repair
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- In this video, we'll be covering cancer repair, metal work, metal shaping, and rust repair. This video is a great guide for anyone who wants to learn more about this type of metal work. We'll go over the repair on the bottom of a door from start to finish. This is a common place to have rust and cancer.
If you're interested in learning more about metal work and repairing damage caused by cancer, then this video is for you! By the end of this video, you'll have everything you need to start Repairing Metal Work with confidence!
#sylvesterscustoms #sylvestercustoms
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All in real time, no stupid background music; just wonderful content !
Thank you!!!
Couldn't aggree more - well said!
Doing this level of work AND presenting it for us at this high level is crazy. Legend.
Thank you 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Thank you for the long version, it's the only way to share all the detail in your projects. It was a great help.
Glad it was helpful!
As an Aircraft structures mechanic I work a lot of aluminum it is tabu to score anything that is a finished part. The vibration has proven to cause the scored or even a scratch to produce a creacked part with time. I always wondered how to reproduce the bottom corners without a press. Iiked and followed keep the content coming. One of these days I'd like to have the time and garage shop to do the same.
As a former USAF aircraft mech I would like to respond to your comment. One significant difference in aircraft is they have stressed skin structures. Aluminum sheet will crack after constant flexing over a significant period of time "but" have you seen the amount of holes in heavy aircraft access panels? This precaution is like most aircraft warnings in that it's possible but the probability is so close to zero it's rediculous. Light aircraft still predominantly use air cooled lawn mower engines with hand operated chokes so let's get real is what I'm saying. A small scribe line on a steel part is virtually the same as a scratch and in no way will affect it's longevity. I can assure you that every aircraft in our military inventory has deeper scratches in the aluminum panels and airframe and they are deemed safe to carry any form of ordinance and personal into battle. The FAA still certifies bedsheet covered aircraft with glued and nailed airframes so comparing these apples and oranges really doesn't seem to make sense to me anyway
Thank you so much! One of the most complete instructional videos I have watched on rust repair. Awesome job!!
Glad it helped! Thank you
Man that bead roller is a bad ass piece of machinery, that's going on my "some day" list for sure! Killer vid, thanks Travis! 🤘
Thanks for watching!
Concerning the use of a Sharpie, what I do is I will color an area and use calipers to scribe a mark in the ink. A fine point Sharpie is a holy grail in a fab shop.
Yep that’s why I also like using dykem
I imagine it not being easy to produce this content. It's a tremendous help to me, so thank you!!
You are very welcome
I like how you give us options on how to work metal. The tape pattern is awesome, especially the way you put dotted lines for highs and lows. Great video!
Thank you!
I wish I'd seen this video about 8 years ago, LOL! I learned on my own how to do much of this. Although we had a shrinker/stretcher and a bead roller at the shop. we didn't have tipping dies. I used a set of rounded tip chisels and a shot bag in conjunction with the shrinker/stretcher to do the majority of complex shapes. The process you used to break down the steps to make the pieces is EXTREMELY useful and I look forward to using this info on my next project.
Right on!! Yeah just gotta break each part down into whatever works for you 👍🏻
Wow dude. When a Sharpie point is too blunt you know you are a perfectionist. Great work!
Thank you so much 😀
Having never done body work, I’m slowly getting confidence to work on my rusted out VW bus in my garage, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
You got this!
As always, Sylvester Customs doesn't just show you... he teaches you the finer points.... top shelf vlog and another instant save. I'm not a paid advocate for Sylvester, but, If you are venturing into Custom autos and truck or restoration... Subscribe. Travis speaks to all levels.. and very concise. He has given us the confidence to not just tip our toes in, but we've dove in head first...yes, we have made a lot of mistakes, Not Travis fault. beginner mistakes ... they were well earned mistakes
FYI
We have ventured into Metal Works for our project (79 Z28). Only because I'm a knowledge geek did I really look into this before stepping off the plank. The same as with Mig & Tig welding. Before you go bending, knocking and banging away on metal... understand what is actually happening to the metal. How the metal will stretch and shrink... I've watched people stitch / spot weld. They come to the end only to see the new metal and parent metal are over lapping... they get out the zip disk and start cutting. Only later did I learn... you can hammer and dollie the stitch / spot weld and stretch the metal... This is why it is so important to cut new-to-parent metals with as close a tolerance as possible...wide gaps make metal life miserable. Don't ask me how I know...
Thank you very much we try our best
you remind me of the man who taught me metal shaping. Terry Cowan was a great metal shaper. made god bless his soul
Thank you!!
It isn’t a micrometer it is a dial caliper
He isn’t a machinist, if you know more than him don’t watch! I know the difference but it doesn’t change what he knows about bending and stretching metal!
@@tools6106 I wasn’t saying it to be critical, I just want to let everyone that reads this what the proper nomenclature is in case they wish to purchase the tool he is using
He should know better!
Dude makes a 2 hour video to help folks move metal and the top comment isn't "thanks", or even anything including "I appreciate this, but just a heads up" - but a one-line "it isn't a micrometer it is a dial caliper".
WTF...
@@dasfette talk about thin skinned. Yes it is a video about how to do things so people can do a better job. So I corrected the name of a tool for those that may not know better. There is no one way to do a job. There are always better practices and ways to do things, but most of the time you use the tools that you have at hand. If you went to the store or the tool crib at the shop and asked for a micrometer then you would obtain the wrong tool. Now ask yourself why I would like to thank someone for using the improper name of a tool he was holding in his hand. Yes later on in the video he does use the correct name. I would be willing to bet in a real shop environment you wouldn’t last a week as you feelings would be hurt the first day.
Someone has taught you a lot of old school techniques.😊 I’m old school. I started in 1969 working on cars. Restoration and modifications. I sure miss the work.
Thank you most of what I know has been trial and error lol
Even machinist use micrometers to scribe lines and measure depths like you did. In fact, it’s one of their functions.
I used to be one lol I have a lot of those habits still haha
Thankyou SYL for taking time to make these videos you resolve so many issues in the how to department your education is priceless...
Thank you very much.
Good looking out! Glad to see you cut the whole lip off. Im planning the same thing, i replaced 1 door for damage but no bottom rust. Other side door is rotted in the middle. So im cutting 3 inches up out of the entire middle section of the door and welding the whole inner & outer section back to the other door, Now i know what im planning is legit coachworx.. Even though i knew it was.😂
👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Since your micrometer is already locked down, you can drag it across your piece and scribe it that way. The tips are robust enough to handle scribing. It’s done all the time. The depth of the little rod sticking out the bottom is the same as the separation of the blades, and they have sharp points on them specifically for scribing.
Outstanding video! My only complaint is it has been too long since the last video. Always well done
More to come!
Incredible detail and a ton of great info. Thanks for taking the time to shoot this video.
Thank you!
A really great video. Very interesting and educational because the time taken (Video length is perfect) to show the detail shows us all how we can achieve great results. Patience and plenty of testing and manipulating the repair panels before committing to welding. Well done!
Thank you very much!
Man i wish i had a bead roller and a huge brake and half the knowledge. Outstanding skill on display here
Thank you
We spoke earlier on Instagram and the wait was worth it. Thanks for sharing this with us. I appreciate the time it must take you to record and then edit to this quality. Thanks again and look forward to and learning more.
No worries!
Absolutely flawless execution of creating a plan, this gives you the steps and the rest is simply creation. Dam fine work! Always watching brother! DK, Omaha.
P.S. My son wants me to make him one for his 86 Monte. He is gonna wait!
Hi Dean
Thank you dean!!
Welcome back. You were missed! Another informative video. Thanks.
You are welcome. Glad to be back at it.
Boy what knowledge of metal bending ahoha from Hawaii!!!!
Aloha!! Oh how I miss Hawaii
Great content,I appreciate the people who are willing to share their knowledge with us,also appreciate the alternative methods for achieving the same results
Glad you like the video. 👍🏻
Great attention to details as well as explaining! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I dig the shop man. Thanks for taking the time to make a video explaining your sheet metal work. As someone mentioned it's a dial caliper not a micrometer. Even though they read to a thousandth of an inch (.xxx) (ten thousandths [.xxxx] if it was a vernier) due to the nature of thier design the user will invariably add error. My mentor called them guessing sticks. A micrometer is that precise and repeatable. You probably already know all that but just in case. Keep up the good work brother!
Yeah thx I have a set of micrometers as well and I always call them the wrong thing but you are correct they are dial calipers
You're one helluva fabricator! I'm really enjoying your videos.
Thanks 👍
Great vid but I'm on a low budget so I would have made the curved piece with 2 pieces and welded it together. . Keep up the great content
Hey whatever works. Thank you!
it is a quality level that only permitted on a high level collection cars
very good job on that door.
Thank you
Great instructions, this answered many questions I had
Glad it was helpful!
Great video on this watching you build this door bottom and making all the metal pieces and how to weld and take care not to over heat the metal thumbs up 👍
Thank you
Great video brother!
Thanks for watching
Awesome video bro. Well explained. Thank you for sharing...from South AFRICA
Thank you!
Absolutely excellent video! Thanks a lot!!
Glad it helped!
Sir that was one of the BEST college quality lectures I have yet seen. And I have a 20-year career teacher myself with natural talent to boot. You sir, have natural talent or teaching, were born with it. There is nothing else in the net right now like the content you are putting out. At least not to this quality and depth. Definitely like and subscribe and hope our audience grows, all they have to do is tune in for one and they will be hooked. Well done! keep up the good work! (Where is your shop located? if I have any body work I would not hesitate to bring you the work)
Thank you very much we appreciate it! We’re in Nuevo California
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS wear some gloves next time... maybe leather?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
My pleasure!
i love doing rust repair like this great instruction you guys do nice work thanks for the videos
Thank you!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure!
brilliant explanation from break down to planning the process to executing the repair ..
But then again im not surprised your content is among the best on the internet...
Thank you for your time & advice
Greetings and best wishes from Australia for a happy & healthy 2023 to you your family friends & everyone 1 of your watchers
Thank you so much for the kind words we greatly appreciate it and we wish you the same
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS cheers, its 11am here Saturday im at the shop and had to watch LOL now to get out there and get stuff done
Some very useful information to add to my welding arsenal.
So thanks for sharing man.
✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
Thank you!!
Welcome back. I think it's been a while. I thought you were doing rust repair. Rust here in the Rust Belt Midwest is non existent metal. HaHa. Really great work. I had to fabricate lower cab metal on a 68 F100 due to parts not being available. I found it's easiest for me to do multiple pieces to create one due to the limited tools I use. It's more welding but works pretty good. I spend some time sizing things up. Visualize and attack.
Thank you chris!!
Favorite channel learning a lot thanks 🙏
Great to hear!
Another good youtube resource for fab info is Fitzee's Fabrications ..He's from Newfoundland Canada and is an absolute genius at making car body parts ..
I follow him as well 👍🏻
U are one of the greats my man thanks for the info and keep those mask on we need u around
Thanks! Will do!
excellent video as always
Thanks again!
What'd you do for New Years Eve? Just subscribed to, and watched hours of SylvestersCustoms. Great work and thx for passing around real knowledge and proper how to skills!
Right on! Thanks for watching. Had a small bonfire with a couple friends. Happy new year!
Thank you. That was an excellent lesson.
Glad it was helpful!
Looks good
Thank you!
Definitely worth the wait.
Thank you!
Great video, amazing work and instruction
Thank you very much!
Love these
Thank you
Great work great vid! 👍
Thank you
very skilled, very intelligent! i used to do body work on semi's and never got to try anything like this being they are all aluminum panels or fiberglass so it was basically R&R or just fixing fiberglass. would love to try this!
Thank you! It’s pretty fun!
Great skills thank you!
Thabj you
That was a great video it help me alot
Glad to hear it!
Another textbook repair..Thanks!
You're welcome!
My. Favorite job is to do. Clip tops. People run. I embrace lol
Could have left some excess on the opposite side from the edge to be tipped on that the small corner piece for better leverage. (It would also keep fingers away from the dies.) The excess also makes it easier to hold in the shrinker. It could then be cut to size after the tipped edge is done.
Thanks I’m learning everyday 👍🏻
Last piece was the hardest! I would have filled the gap with weld. Yeah duh, once its tacked you can beat it down to blend it in This is a simple step you may overlook just trying to get it done. When we don't have all day...
I epoxy the whole backside of the panel. I tape off the weld edge heat zones and spot weld areas, then come back pull tape & add weld through to the edges and nickles around the plug welds. Its more work but seems great in theory.?.
That is the best way
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS i just used you're metal blend technique on a part I'm building for my car today! Thanks. It's a 6 dimensional part so a few areas needed knock down for a seemless quarterpanel stepdown, it was great & really needed in a critical area of my car.
Awesome glad to hear it helped you!
Very informative 👍. Looking forward to seeing more.
Awesome, thank you!
Great video! Just a heads up, if you remove the orange extrusion from the bending leaf of your brake, you can get into some pretty tight areas.
Thank you you are correct the problem is the portion of it that comes down and clamps onto. It is pretty wide typically when I do smaller parts I use the finger brake inside the shop.
I have a question, is it okay to use machinist bluing to mark bending and rolling points on steel , at the ends of the piece you're working on? Seems more accurate than a sharpie.
Yes, absolutely
Order of work maybe tip the round flange leave cut trim to size last
Good stuff. Thanks!
Our pleasure!
A 1 foot length of wide flange beam makes a great forming platform
I need one!
A piece of train track is also nice. That’s what I use
Some good work here, maybe think about a different title, I lost my good lady to Cancer, it’s rust, rot, not the big C.
Sorry for your loss, it's not intended to offend. It's a top rated search term for this type of automotive repair. We try to get this information out to as many people as possible.
take angle iron off the break it can bend 1/2x1/2 back to back.
angle is for heavy metal only
I did but it still wasn’t small enough 🥲
Dude! Great work man love metal fab. That 2nd break, have you ever thought about removing your helper angle on that break ?I'm a sheetmetal worker and that top dye should be 1/2" . Most breaks in the shops don't use that angle till we get into breaking heavy stuff. By the way no hate here, not trying to be a know it all neither don't take it that way, I know there's a ton of time bead rolling and bead rolling again !
None taken 👌🏻 on mine it’s super wide I wish it was 1/2” my brake is 8’ long she’s huge lol
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I'm glad man almost hate to say anything now a days. Our 10' at our old my old shop was 9/16 . I think The 8' break in my garage is 1/2 " For the lighter side for me 20ga I normally don't use the helper angle. And maybe adjusting the top leaf too ! Definitely got a new subscriber tho DUDE 💪
@@chadalac1977 much appreciated!
Wouldn’t it be easier to clamp that block into a voice or have something more like an anvil then to try to hold it while you’re tapping it?
Yeah I switch back and fourth
I love the insights you give us.
I love the tape transfer method! Packing tape might not stretch as much as making tape?
Some breaks have adjustable offset differences between the front of the top edge and the lower bending surface so you can vary the bend radius.
I am restoring a '55 Chevy and have a bad passenger door that the shyster dealer that sold me the car swapped the good door on my car that he sold me for a bad door off another 55. It is rusted swiss cheese on the lower 1/3. I was able to get a new bottom outer skin and a new sheet metal bottom. Is there any way you could do a session on these two fairly common practices?
Many thanks!
I don’t have the parts to do that scenario. Typically, I show the stuff that we are currently working on with projects in the shop. My recommendation is leave either the outer skin on or the inner structure. Doesn’t matter which one you start with, but you have to leave one on and then fit the other. Trim a little bit at a time until it fits perfect
Metal Gods by Judas Priest comes to mind 🔥
Nice tips and metal working skills. However, the tool you used is not called a micrometer, it's a Vernier Caliper.
Yeah I know I’m human I make mistakes
What sort of spotweld drill bit is that
Blair spot weld cutter
Your measuring device is Dial type Vernier calliper
You are correct. I goofed
If u don't have the use or the equipment to do that work do u think if u clean it up and spray a rust inhibitions on it and inside the door and then use a fiber glass on it a thin coat would work especially if u have a thin budget
No it will fail unfortunately
I want to do the undercarriage on my 66 Fastback Mustang. Do you have a video on what type primer and pain to use, I keep getting mixed reviews as to what is the best option.
I have a video specifically on primers and it breaks down the confusion 👌🏻
A macco paint job shit. I would have told t it s extra to work on dinosaurs lmao
With all that professional equipment, overhead and know how, seems to add up to $150. per hr or greater just to properly repair a factory door and ready for paint. This is why a properly restored or modified auto is a wealthy man's luxury only. What most folks fail to understand is that a great craftsman will build whatever he is working on more perfect than the factory item, just by nature of being a craftsman. I'm an artist and friends and relatives ask to purchase a painting or commission. I quite frankly tell them, it is out of your league. You simply can't give away what you struggled years to learn. Nor can you create a lessor product and stay feeling good about what you do. The craftsman that do great work never overcharge their customers. It's always the lessor craftsman you must always watch out for.
That is very well said and you are so correct! I need to double my rates 🤦🏻♂️
What’s the best thing to spray or wipe down the metal with before primer and paint to prevent rust
There is not a product that I am aware of that you can just wipe on before primer. I want to make sure this responses clear you can use Gibbs oil over bare metal to keep the rust away but before you paint or primer, you need to make sure you get a wax and grease remover and remove it. I have seen demonstrations where people have painted over it and it seemed to work but I don’t recommend the reason that Gibbs oil is good is because there is no silicone in it.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you very much! After I do some welding sometimes I won’t get to the panel for a while and I don’t want to leave it bare.
Thank you for your restoration videos. I wanted to know if, let's say hypothetically I were to sand my mustang to bare metal. Could I sand the mustang to bare metal then primer it with DTM Hybuild VP2050 Epoxy Primer THEN send it to your shop (hypothetically) to do all the body work/dents?
I’m order for me to guarantee a paint job I must see the car in bare metal
Good to see you back man, your videos are the best for giving the excellent information. By the way how hard is it to spray acrylic over epoxy primer (the primer says it is suitable for acrylic). I have an old Australian muscle car painted in acrylic (paint is still good) but I want to change the colour. Would you get rid of all the old filler and take it back to metal or can I just take the paint off back to the filler and primer over it?
Thank you. I’d strip it all but you don’t have to. You could wet sand with 600 and just repaint it.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Cool, thanks for the reply.That gives me something to think about.
If the paint is still good. No cracking or peeling just sand the whole thing with 320 grit then seal it with a 2 part sealer and paint it. Base clear or single stage. Base clear is easier to wet sand and buff. Be sure to use enough coats of clear to compensate for wet sanding . I usually would apply 4 coats let flash appropriately between coats.
@@michaelmorrow614 Thanks for the tips, that would be a whole lot easier.
Hey Jason….watching this again at 3:35am… did you install the new pins with anti-seize?
I’m not sure who this Jason character is
I'm noticing in some of the sprays ya'll do, in the ones with flake, like you said the edges could stick up. Almost like it has a texture too it, a grainy roughness to the touch. It got me thinking of the spray on coatings in bed liners. But, that coating could be used all over the car. I was just wondering if your pigments cod be added to those to, add a bit of color. Also wonder if adding the color changes it on a molecular level, changing it's properties.
I’m sorry I’m confused is this comment for the painting video we just put out today?
Yeah man sorry about, this I was watching a video from dipyourcar. I guess the video ended, and this one began, and I was still typing my message. Then this video started and I finished my comment, it added their comment to your comments. Once again, sorry about this!
@@geraldrobertson7871 all good lol I was confused. We just dropped a video on how to paint a car today so I thought maybe it mixed it up
👏👏👏👏👏👏
You've done this a time or two. Amazing work. Jow many days off camera would the repairs take?
We rebuilt three doors in three days. Start to finish. Thank you
😵💫👍 great video but I’m getting the urge for fiberglass . Sorry 😅
Itch itchy
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS lol your a cool cat I checked out your podcast . I normally don’t look at videos. Just to pull up my game . You know we are like basketball players, AUTOBODY cats we need to shoot from everywhere.
I have a guy that is trying to sell a 24" aluminum Mittler bros. bead roller w/ variable speed motor and adjustable upper shaft.... It comes with the Blue Mittler bros. table and just one set of dies(top and bottom) and the stand..... He was asking $1800 for it and I got him to $1600.... Do you think its worth it and if so, what set of dies do you recommend I get for it?? Thanks for being OCD.... there aren't many of us left.... haha
I forget off hand what they go for new. Do your research for sure. OCD is the only way to be 🤣
Why not just use the brake to make all of the bends?
In the video we describe exactly why. The brake I have won’t do 1/2” apart the foot on the brake smashes it.
Come on now Bad Chad's Friend Jimbo would have had that fabricated gas welded in and painted with house paint by now
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 best comment yet!!!
Apparently you've never lost anyone to Cancer. Rust and Cancer are not the same. Hope you learn that soon.
Lighten up Francis 🙄
Well, that was painful to watch! The amount of time spent rolling, shrinking and stretching that one little corner, Fitzee would have the door finished and wouldn't have forgotten that the door has is crowned both ways. Fitzee's Fabrications, don't over think things and you don't need that fancy crap, all it did was slow you down. Sad to say the least!
Lol thanks we’re glad you loved the video so much thx for all the love and support 😘
Now can you repair my cancer?
We can! Lol
I have a new trick. Take a dog pee pad cut a small section whatever size you desire, dump vinegar on it, and lay it on rust overnight❤
🤣🤣🤣 not going to fix the massive holes tho
Who knew that cars get cancer too 😮!!!
Now you know 🤣
Calipers
My bad that’s what I meant