@@ClintonCaraway-CNC I've found the solid carbide bits need to have some adjustment or it will "climb" up the bit as it cuts. The single replaceable insert bits do really well with it. The key to keep it from peeling is using a squeegy or other plastic tool to press out all teh air pockets and properly adhere it to the material surface.
@@TheLovee4musicc It depends on the material you are putting it on and how well you get it applied. Bubbles typically come from not pressing it on well to get good adhesion to the surface. I've done 24x36 signs with no issues. I've had to overlap my 12" wide material to accomplish it, but again, no issues.
Have you ever used it over painted bases? I have some plywood signs I want to make with a red backround and white inside letters, I tried using transfer vinyl thing the clear one, and it pulled the red paint off my workpiece when removed
Thank you for watching. I forgot to take a photo before I took them to the store. A close-up at about 7:40 shows a pretty good shot of the crisp lines.
Lol, very funny out takes Chris... nice to see ever the 'pros' have problems :) Also, thanks for the tips as well - will definitely try this idea out here over the pond in UK..
nice work Chris and thanks for sharing. Your editing and camera stuff is a lot of work but it sure does make a difference. Thanks and Peace be with you!
Hey, Chris! So I'm working on a new project today and I'm going to be using Oramask with my CNC. Because it's been awhile since I've done a sign project with Oramask, I thought I'd revisit your video to get a refresher course on how to do it properly. I really enjoy the videos you post - I really learn a lot and I enjoy your method and your manner of instruction. My question is this - during your video you mentioned that you didn't remove the mask for four or five days and that usually you only leave it on for 24 hours or so...... So I was wondering is it necessary to leave it on for 24 hours? In the past I have completed the project, waited for the paint to dry and then removed the mask. Besides making sure that the paint is completely dry, are there other reasons that I should wait 24 hours? Many thanks for all you do! God bless you
As long as the paint is dry or at least not runny, removal is fine. Some parts get painted a few times and removing while the paint is still wet leads to spearing and other issues. Dry is key, not necessarily a time-frame (24 hrs)
It really does make a difference. I purchased my first batch from Amazon, but quickly saw the benefits and convinced the place I work to carry it. Now I can buy it locally, lol.
Great video, although I do have a couple of questions. 1. What is the v-carve type bit you're using? 2. What is the depth of the cuts? it seems a single v-carve is doing the single job. 3. What seal did you use? Can it be used on paint? I'm trying to paint the wood black, use the oramask to carve out lettering then applying different coloring. but it seems I need to cut them out first? I appricate your time and video. Cheers.
1) that is my go-to 60v bit spectra from Amana 2) they vary based on the width of the font lines. In vectric, it has a toolpath called "v-carve" which bases the depth on font line width, bit used, and depth is varied automatically. 3) any sealer works. If using Lacquer, then seal with lacquer sealer. If something else, shellac works well. Paint or seal, then oramask. Cut out letters for the first color, then reapply oramask. Cut 2nd color, and repeat as needed.
Lol 😂 at the end... I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to do retakes on my travel video’s, I know that feeling....lmao 😂 great video i’m gonna have to start using that technique looks easy.
You used sanding sealer before the Oramask, but don’t you need to get it into the engraved areas after carving (or did I miss that step)? It seems like stain or paint could get into the newly exposed endgrain and migrate that way.
Nice Video Sir. What type of Oramask did you use? Oramask 813 or 817. I ask because some think the 817 is harder to remove from the material. That might be the answer to save the pain staking task of removing the oramask. I have the 817, so maybe you can help me answer my question as well. Thanks
I thought I was already subbed to you .... oops... I am now, lol. Tell Mike that he needs to open a store in Colorado Springs. Not Kidding... :-). Awesome video dude.
Good video Chris. However I noticed in your video you have the same issue I am trying to solve. During the carve, the Oramask is being removed from the center of the "A" on the small text. I have the problem with "O, P, D", etc. I was wondering if you have any suggestions on how to stop this from happening?
The smaller and more detailed, the harder that is to stop. More open grained and porous woods make it worse. Sanding it smooth, removing all dust, and properly squeegeeing the mask is the best method I've found. A sharp bit with the right speeds also helps.
Thank you for watching. The sealer (in my opinion) isn't as important as the topcoat. I'm a fan of the Zinsser sealcoat (shellac-based) because it makes the grain pop. For a topcoat, you have several options. Any "outdoor" finish will work. I usually use General Finishes Exterior 450 if I want a clear water-based finish, or Waterlox marine if I need an oil-based finish (this takes a while to dry but very easily maintained). Also, about any "marine" varnish will work. System III makes a really good one.
@@ChristcrossCrafts To be clear, are you saying that it doesn't matter if the wood sealer doesn't have to say exterior as long as the top coat is for exterior?
@@kenanklovitch8117 Correct. If you are just using a sealer (i,e. deck sealer, log cabin sealer, etc.), then it will need to be exterior rated. If you are top coating it with something else, it does not need to be. The exterior "top" coating will keep UV and weather out.
Great video!! one question, where do you get your double sided tape and whats the name of it? All i can find is the thick carpet tape made for seaming carpet together, right now im using the blue masking tape and gorilla glue which is a P.I.T.A.
I buy it from Klingspor's Woodworking Shop. The 3/4" is eh, but the 2" is good stuff. They don't show it on their website but do offer it in their stores and can be ordered through their phone line.
@007JHS search Amazon or wherever for a masking, vinyl, or craft weeding tool. Some even come in sets with spreaders, scissors, tweezers, and other tools
Possibly, but the weeding tool allows you to get the small pieces that are easily missed. If you pressed it on well, then the finish can prevent the tape from getting it all. Plus, sometimes the finish may still be a little wet when you peel it off and the tape won't stick.
i used it for the first time today and it did not stick to my wood. i was a piece of pine from lowes and sanded to 120 grit and stained it with minwax stain but did not use a sealer or a finish. is that why it did not stick?
Unless the surface is smooth and clean, it will struggle to adhere. Also, it has to be pressed so all air pockets are out. I've used it on pine with no issues. Is it possible the stain wasn't dry?
I've been trying to carve letters with Oromask with a 60deg 1/8" vbit, but the Oromask gets shredded along the edges. Using on Poplar with 200mm/min plunge and 1000mm/min feed. Final depth at 0.15mm.
How fine did you sand, is the surface clean, did you squeegee or press the surface prior to applying it? If rhe surface isn't smooth and clean it won't adhere well. If the mask isn't pressed well it will unravel some while being cut. If your bit is dull that can also pull more on the material instead of slice.
I have a general question. This is the first big project I used oramask and when I pulled the oramask off it left a sticky residue on project. Is there a special way to get the residue off without removing the paint underneath? Thank you.
It can become an issue if you leave it on for a long time (a couple of days) or if the wood is porous. I have had it be sticky if i applied it over a finish that wasn't dried well. Apart from that, I've never had leave a residue.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thank you. Well the paint was left for a couple days before masking so I assumed the paint was dry. I did put a thin coat of urethane over the paint so that must not have been dry enough. Thanks for the help.
Fantastic! Do you have a recommendation for a colorful paint type for this? Acrylic seems like it wouldn’t be best, perhaps? I prefer a paint-by-hand option rather than spray. Thanks for a Great Super Helpful video!
Thank you for watching. You can use dye stains or any paint really. Dye stains often come in bright colors and there isn't a lack of colorful paint. I use General Finishes Milk Paint quite often myself. It's water-based and dries quickly.
Tried to use oramask the other day, guess something didn’t go right, cause the bit ended up grabbing some of the oramask and got wrapped up so I had to shut it down and peel it all off the bit. Haven’t tried again. :/
It does need to be pressed on well. I get some build-up sometimes with my 60° v bit. You can adjust rpms and fix some of that but otherwise I haven't had any issues.
I haven't used it with one, but I imagine, no. It is a vinyl material and the laser would likely melt it. Lasers have other options to prevent burning around the lasered areas.
I tried this mask on a nicely white-painted sign which I then routed out the lettering, spray painted the lettering black then after a day or so tried removing the film. It pulled off in small pieces and left a sticky residue in patches. Then trying to remove the residue I ended up smearing the black paint all over the white creating a mess. I ended up using white spirits with a Q tip to clean up most of the black smudges mixed in with the sticky residue. Needless to say I spent many hours more than I'd hoped and lost money on the job. I won't be doing another multi-coloured sign until I find a better mask that doesn't leave an impossible-to-remove sticky residue. Someone said that it is easy to remove with soapy water but that wasn't the case, it did nothing to remove it even after soaking for hours. So frustrating!
Sorry you experienced that. The key to the oramask is not leaving it on, but shortly after the paint has dried. Also, if you didn't let the original white paint dry to cure, it tried curing, and the mask prevented it from flashing off. This works well but there are some steps to make it get to that point. I have made the mistake of taking the mask off too early, dragging wet paint onto the main field. It was a learning process, but now I won't use anything else.
@@ChristcrossCraftsThat makes sense, thanks, I must admit the cold weather here in Australia at the moment didn't help, I'll try waiting longer next time.
there are many factors. Mine is a 3 flute solid carbide and I run it 14-16k rpm and the feed will vary depending on the size of my lettering. I know people who use a standard carbide tipped V and it works for them. The important thing is finding what is right for your machine. It's a combination of rpm and feed rate based on your bit and machine Also, you want to ensure the oramask is pressed onto the surface very well. A clean, well-sanded surface is best.
Great video. Thanks for the heads up on the Oramask. Does that leave any residue on the material once pealed off? I’ve used stencil with super tack and that stuff leaves a gummy residue. Also, does it stick well to prestained boards? Thanks again!!
It doesn't leave any residue. I've left it in for 4 days before with no issues. I've adhered it to bare wood, stained, painted, and urethane/lacquer with no problems. The only struggle will be with rough wood. I tried to use it with barnwood and was an epic fail.
@@firemanbif no worries. Glad I could help. I normally try and respond within a couple of hours. I happened to be near my phone and machines weren't running, lol.
I typically allow the bit and vectors dictate my depth. There are a some projects that you have to determine that but usually go as deep as the bit angle allows.
@@newfielad38 in the video I share that I'm making it as a display for my local woodworking store. That's why only half of it has the mask... so people can see the before and after.
Since it's mine, does it matter? It was what was in stock & not pink like the other in stock. Plus, I don't care. It matched my Amana spektra bits, so it seemed like a logical choice.
Do you recycle this material? Do you know what is it made from? Does it mater to you that it may be a pollutant? Did you know some plastics take 20 - 500 years to break down to their molecular basics, and until then it is not environmental friendly? Maybe you just care for the $$ and let your great grand kids deal with the problems you've created. Be responsible, and pass on a good thing to your next generation. Nothing wrong with that right? Don't get me wrong, I like to make money also but, I like to make money responsibly! Keep on tracking and be honest to yourself!
Firstly... there are a LOT of accusations & assumptions here. Your lengthy paragraph is filled with them. A simple, "what is this made of" would have sufficed. Since you went straight for how I'm just in this for money, don't care about my children/grand children, "I've" created problems, etc., I'll just leave this here. I do care and did check this product out. It IS safer than alternatives that are offered. It's a PVC (vinyl) material and the official SDS from the manufacturer reads, 2. possible dangers risk to human beings and environment: "none" 3. composition / information about components chemical characteristics pvc - film polyacrylate adhesive silicone - coated paper Dangerous contents "Do not contain hazardous substances neither substances of the "Candidate List of Substances of Very High Concern for authorization" ECHA (REACH) concentration >0,1 % (w/w) (Relating: film + adhesive)
Lol. You really should recycle it bit by bit. Go through your dust collector bucket with tweezers. I wanna see the video of you sticking the tiny pieces back together on your next project. Seriously! This comment was a great reminder as to why I don't bother making RUclips videos .
Man, in the time it took you to write your accusatory statement/question, you could have Googled it and found out the answers yourself, instead of ASSUMING. Plus, as someone else wrote, you’re attacking the guy who is using the stuff. A better target would surely be the companies that make and sell the products that you assume are so damaging.
This stuff really is a game-changer.
What F & S do you use for the 60° v??
Is there a better setting to keep the Oramask from peeling during machining??
@@ClintonCaraway-CNC I've found the solid carbide bits need to have some adjustment or it will "climb" up the bit as it cuts. The single replaceable insert bits do really well with it.
The key to keep it from peeling is using a squeegy or other plastic tool to press out all teh air pockets and properly adhere it to the material surface.
Does is this stencil good for big signs
I saw that some ppl get bubbles?
@@TheLovee4musicc It depends on the material you are putting it on and how well you get it applied. Bubbles typically come from not pressing it on well to get good adhesion to the surface.
I've done 24x36 signs with no issues. I've had to overlap my 12" wide material to accomplish it, but again, no issues.
Have you ever used it over painted bases? I have some plywood signs I want to make with a red backround and white inside letters, I tried using transfer vinyl thing the clear one, and it pulled the red paint off my workpiece when removed
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This is just what I needed for information on finishing my husbands CNC projects. He cuts, I paint. KUDOS!
lol. I'm glad you have it figured out. This would make YOUR life easier for sure.
"Cause I'm lazy, I really don't like painting" lol. I can relate to that Brother, made me laugh. New subscriber for that.
I feel like I'm not the only one.
Thanks for the demonstration. I have some but have not used it yet. I enjoy the outtakes also.
It works great. I figured since I mess up sometimes, I thought id throw em in.
A very well produced video with some valuable tips. Thanks.
Thank you.
Thanks
Thank you
Great information but even better bloopers.
We all make mistakes so I try to share them.
Im a sign carver, freehand. Im looking into using oramask for certain applications. This was really helpful!
I use it a kot and have found it to be very useful and a game changer for masking & painting.
Great video! Lots of helpful tips. Thank you.
Thank you for watching. I'm glad it was helpful. Oramask really is a great product regardless if you CNC or hand route the relief.
Great video, love the out takes. I was hoping to see the finished product by the end of the video.
Thank you for watching. I forgot to take a photo before I took them to the store. A close-up at about 7:40 shows a pretty good shot of the crisp lines.
Lol, very funny out takes Chris... nice to see ever the 'pros' have problems :)
Also, thanks for the tips as well - will definitely try this idea out here over the pond in UK..
Thanks for watching. I'm not sure about the pro comment but the Oramask is definitely worth a try. I'm sure its available over there.
nice work Chris and thanks for sharing. Your editing and camera stuff is a lot of work but it sure does make a difference. Thanks and Peace be with you!
Thank you for the kind words. Some things are worth extra time because it's easy to miss some details if you can't see it.
Very informative. Thank you. Cracked me up at the end. Nice bloopers.
Thank you for watching. I hope it was helpful. I try to add levity where I can.
I've been shopping at the Hickory store since the early 90s. Great people and of course awesome sandpaper!! Lol!!
I actually work there and used to manage the store from 2003-2010.
I appreciate the details, this video answered my questions about Oar mask! Meet up the good work!
Thank you for watching. I'm glad it helped.
Good video - great outtakes!
Thanks for enduring. It doesn't always go right.
Hey, Chris! So I'm working on a new project today and I'm going to be using Oramask with my CNC. Because it's been awhile since I've done a sign project with Oramask, I thought I'd revisit your video to get a refresher course on how to do it properly. I really enjoy the videos you post - I really learn a lot and I enjoy your method and your manner of instruction. My question is this - during your video you mentioned that you didn't remove the mask for four or five days and that usually you only leave it on for 24 hours or so...... So I was wondering is it necessary to leave it on for 24 hours? In the past I have completed the project, waited for the paint to dry and then removed the mask. Besides making sure that the paint is completely dry, are there other reasons that I should wait 24 hours? Many thanks for all you do! God bless you
As long as the paint is dry or at least not runny, removal is fine.
Some parts get painted a few times and removing while the paint is still wet leads to spearing and other issues. Dry is key, not necessarily a time-frame (24 hrs)
I use this on all my carving! Works amazing!
Agreed! Ive done a couple jobs with multiple cuts & colors and added layers. That works well too.
@@ChristcrossCrafts I posted a video of my Army American flag where I used it. Zero bleeding!!
@@TheBengstonWoodshop I watched your video and nice flag.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thank you sir! Now to figure out how to get back into the game here in Germany 🇩🇪
Great video and I like the transfer paper. I will be looking for it in my area.
It really does make a difference. I purchased my first batch from Amazon, but quickly saw the benefits and convinced the place I work to carry it. Now I can buy it locally, lol.
Great video, although I do have a couple of questions.
1. What is the v-carve type bit you're using?
2. What is the depth of the cuts? it seems a single v-carve is doing the single job.
3. What seal did you use? Can it be used on paint?
I'm trying to paint the wood black, use the oramask to carve out lettering then applying different coloring. but it seems I need to cut them out first? I appricate your time and video. Cheers.
1) that is my go-to 60v bit spectra from Amana
2) they vary based on the width of the font lines. In vectric, it has a toolpath called "v-carve" which bases the depth on font line width, bit used, and depth is varied automatically.
3) any sealer works. If using Lacquer, then seal with lacquer sealer. If something else, shellac works well.
Paint or seal, then oramask. Cut out letters for the first color, then reapply oramask. Cut 2nd color, and repeat as needed.
Lol 😂 at the end... I can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to do retakes on my travel video’s, I know that feeling....lmao 😂 great video i’m gonna have to start using that technique looks easy.
Thanks for watching. I figured I wasn't alone and wanted to share the struggle.
You used sanding sealer before the Oramask, but don’t you need to get it into the engraved areas after carving (or did I miss that step)? It seems like stain or paint could get into the newly exposed endgrain and migrate that way.
As long as the top is sealed, it's OK except for pine. Pine can wick some if using a thin paint.
Nice Video Sir. What type of Oramask did you use? Oramask 813 or 817. I ask because some think the 817 is harder to remove from the material. That might be the answer to save the pain staking task of removing the oramask. I have the 817, so maybe you can help me answer my question as well. Thanks
I used the 813. The 817 is best suited for harsher finishes like lacquers.
Oh yeah, that's freak show useful. Well done sir.
Thank you... That would work well with some of your Shaper Origin stuff.
@@ChristcrossCrafts absofreakinglutely
GREAT VIDEO ON USING ORAMASK, WHAT WAS THE TYPE OF BLACK STAIN?
I normally use a black mohawk enamel aerosol. On quick and dries quick.
I thought I was already subbed to you .... oops... I am now, lol. Tell Mike that he needs to open a store in Colorado Springs. Not Kidding... :-). Awesome video dude.
Thanks for the sub & kind words. Who knows when expansion may occur.
Good video Chris. However I noticed in your video you have the same issue I am trying to solve. During the carve, the Oramask is being removed from the center of the "A" on the small text. I have the problem with "O, P, D", etc. I was wondering if you have any suggestions on how to stop this from happening?
The smaller and more detailed, the harder that is to stop. More open grained and porous woods make it worse.
Sanding it smooth, removing all dust, and properly squeegeeing the mask is the best method I've found. A sharp bit with the right speeds also helps.
Thank you
Happy to help
About to buy a shapeoko 4xxl and want to get into sign making, this is what I want to know, the process of finishing and painting
This is one of many methods. Add another layer to cut another area. Rinse & repeat.
Excellent video, what sealer would be best for exterior signs? I read that Zinsser 854 is for interior applications Thank you.
Thank you for watching. The sealer (in my opinion) isn't as important as the topcoat. I'm a fan of the Zinsser sealcoat (shellac-based) because it makes the grain pop. For a topcoat, you have several options.
Any "outdoor" finish will work. I usually use General Finishes Exterior 450 if I want a clear water-based finish, or Waterlox marine if I need an oil-based finish (this takes a while to dry but very easily maintained). Also, about any "marine" varnish will work. System III makes a really good one.
@@ChristcrossCrafts To be clear, are you saying that it doesn't matter if the wood sealer doesn't have to say exterior as long as the top coat is for exterior?
@@kenanklovitch8117 Correct. If you are just using a sealer (i,e. deck sealer, log cabin sealer, etc.), then it will need to be exterior rated. If you are top coating it with something else, it does not need to be. The exterior "top" coating will keep UV and weather out.
@@ChristcrossCrafts Thank you very much kind Sir!!
@@kenanklovitch8117 Happy to help.
Great video!! one question, where do you get your double sided tape and whats the name of it? All i can find is the thick carpet tape made for seaming carpet together, right now im using the blue masking tape and gorilla glue which is a P.I.T.A.
I buy it from Klingspor's Woodworking Shop. The 3/4" is eh, but the 2" is good stuff. They don't show it on their website but do offer it in their stores and can be ordered through their phone line.
looks good. Weeding tool?
I snagged one off Amazon.
@@ChristcrossCrafts what is it called other than a weeding tool... I keep coming up with gardening implements
@007JHS search Amazon or wherever for a masking, vinyl, or craft weeding tool. Some even come in sets with spreaders, scissors, tweezers, and other tools
Could you use parking tape, a sticky tape, or something like oracle 651 to remove the vinyl mask quicker instead of so much weeding?
Possibly, but the weeding tool allows you to get the small pieces that are easily missed. If you pressed it on well, then the finish can prevent the tape from getting it all. Plus, sometimes the finish may still be a little wet when you peel it off and the tape won't stick.
i used it for the first time today and it did not stick to my wood. i was a piece of pine from lowes and sanded to 120 grit and stained it with minwax stain but did not use a sealer or a finish. is that why it did not stick?
Unless the surface is smooth and clean, it will struggle to adhere. Also, it has to be pressed so all air pockets are out. I've used it on pine with no issues. Is it possible the stain wasn't dry?
I've been trying to carve letters with Oromask with a 60deg 1/8" vbit, but the Oromask gets shredded along the edges. Using on Poplar with 200mm/min plunge and 1000mm/min feed. Final depth at 0.15mm.
How fine did you sand, is the surface clean, did you squeegee or press the surface prior to applying it?
If rhe surface isn't smooth and clean it won't adhere well. If the mask isn't pressed well it will unravel some while being cut. If your bit is dull that can also pull more on the material instead of slice.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thanks, I’ll give that a try.
@Brent Headberg one of those plastic walpaper spreader tools works well.
I have a general question. This is the first big project I used oramask and when I pulled the oramask off it left a sticky residue on project. Is there a special way to get the residue off without removing the paint underneath?
Thank you.
It can become an issue if you leave it on for a long time (a couple of days) or if the wood is porous. I have had it be sticky if i applied it over a finish that wasn't dried well.
Apart from that, I've never had leave a residue.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thank you.
Well the paint was left for a couple days before masking so I assumed the paint was dry. I did put a thin coat of urethane over the paint so that must not have been dry enough. Thanks for the help.
Fantastic! Do you have a recommendation for a colorful paint type for this? Acrylic seems like it wouldn’t be best, perhaps? I prefer a paint-by-hand option rather than spray. Thanks for a Great Super Helpful video!
Thank you for watching. You can use dye stains or any paint really. Dye stains often come in bright colors and there isn't a lack of colorful paint. I use General Finishes Milk Paint quite often myself. It's water-based and dries quickly.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thank you so much!
Tried to use oramask the other day, guess something didn’t go right, cause the bit ended up grabbing some of the oramask and got wrapped up so I had to shut it down and peel it all off the bit. Haven’t tried again. :/
It does need to be pressed on well. I get some build-up sometimes with my 60° v bit. You can adjust rpms and fix some of that but otherwise I haven't had any issues.
Interesting - does this work with a laser?
I haven't used it with one, but I imagine, no. It is a vinyl material and the laser would likely melt it. Lasers have other options to prevent burning around the lasered areas.
I tried this mask on a nicely white-painted sign which I then routed out the lettering, spray painted the lettering black then after a day or so tried removing the film. It pulled off in small pieces and left a sticky residue in patches. Then trying to remove the residue I ended up smearing the black paint all over the white creating a mess. I ended up using white spirits with a Q tip to clean up most of the black smudges mixed in with the sticky residue. Needless to say I spent many hours more than I'd hoped and lost money on the job. I won't be doing another multi-coloured sign until I find a better mask that doesn't leave an impossible-to-remove sticky residue. Someone said that it is easy to remove with soapy water but that wasn't the case, it did nothing to remove it even after soaking for hours. So frustrating!
Sorry you experienced that. The key to the oramask is not leaving it on, but shortly after the paint has dried. Also, if you didn't let the original white paint dry to cure, it tried curing, and the mask prevented it from flashing off.
This works well but there are some steps to make it get to that point. I have made the mistake of taking the mask off too early, dragging wet paint onto the main field. It was a learning process, but now I won't use anything else.
@@ChristcrossCraftsThat makes sense, thanks, I must admit the cold weather here in Australia at the moment didn't help, I'll try waiting longer next time.
@ausworkshop longer on the white but much less on the paint after the carve.
Hi what kind of feedspeed do you have on the vbit? My rpm is 18000 but haven't any luck with the oramask so maybe the feedspeed🤔
there are many factors. Mine is a 3 flute solid carbide and I run it 14-16k rpm and the feed will vary depending on the size of my lettering. I know people who use a standard carbide tipped V and it works for them. The important thing is finding what is right for your machine. It's a combination of rpm and feed rate based on your bit and machine
Also, you want to ensure the oramask is pressed onto the surface very well. A clean, well-sanded surface is best.
I need to get a cnc !!
They are amazing. This works with hand routers or hand carving too.
So you just left half the Oramask on the sign?
This was a display, so yes. They wanted something that would show how it works. Leaving half did that.
Great video. Thanks for the heads up on the Oramask. Does that leave any residue on the material once pealed off? I’ve used stencil with super tack and that stuff leaves a gummy residue. Also, does it stick well to prestained boards? Thanks again!!
It doesn't leave any residue. I've left it in for 4 days before with no issues. I've adhered it to bare wood, stained, painted, and urethane/lacquer with no problems.
The only struggle will be with rough wood. I tried to use it with barnwood and was an epic fail.
@@ChristcrossCrafts thanks for the info and the help. That was the fastest reply and just got you a sub!!
@@firemanbif no worries. Glad I could help. I normally try and respond within a couple of hours. I happened to be near my phone and machines weren't running, lol.
My husband is having trouble with the Oramask lifting the paint from the signs. Any suggestions?
@@maureencrossman3978 make sure the paint is dry before applying the mask. Some softer paints (like chalk) will pull. Best to add a sealer first.
Charlotte in house.
Good tutorial thanks! Out of curiosity, what depth do you use on the CNC cut for signs like this? I tend to go around 3mm, depending on detail etc.
I typically allow the bit and vectors dictate my depth. There are a some projects that you have to determine that but usually go as deep as the bit angle allows.
Had problems hearing some parts because all of the high range was taken out and too much bass was left in the audio. Sounded muffled.
I love Klingspor! The downfall is i live 2 hrs away.
There's always the phone or shopping online. Sometimes it's worth a drive when ya need something.
Why leave the mask on half?
I guess you will have to watch to find out
@@ChristcrossCrafts Where can i find the other part of the video?
@@newfielad38 in the video I share that I'm making it as a display for my local woodworking store. That's why only half of it has the mask... so people can see the before and after.
125 pounds. Really brother. Lol😂
yeah, a slight exaggeration.
Why is your weeding tool purple.... like a girl
Since it's mine, does it matter? It was what was in stock & not pink like the other in stock. Plus, I don't care. It matched my Amana spektra bits, so it seemed like a logical choice.
@@ChristcrossCrafts that's what's up. Here for oramask review. Just messin with ya...
Do you recycle this material? Do you know what is it made from? Does it mater to you that it may be a pollutant? Did you know some plastics take 20 - 500 years to break down to their molecular basics, and until then it is not environmental friendly? Maybe you just care for the $$ and let your great grand kids deal with the problems you've created. Be responsible, and pass on a good thing to your next generation. Nothing wrong with that right? Don't get me wrong, I like to make money also but, I like to make money responsibly! Keep on tracking and be honest to yourself!
Firstly... there are a LOT of accusations & assumptions here. Your lengthy paragraph is filled with them. A simple, "what is this made of" would have sufficed. Since you went straight for how I'm just in this for money, don't care about my children/grand children, "I've" created problems, etc., I'll just leave this here.
I do care and did check this product out. It IS safer than alternatives that are offered. It's a PVC (vinyl) material and the official SDS from the manufacturer reads,
2. possible dangers
risk to human beings and environment: "none"
3. composition / information about components
chemical characteristics
pvc - film
polyacrylate adhesive
silicone - coated paper
Dangerous contents
"Do not contain hazardous substances neither substances of the "Candidate List of
Substances of Very High Concern for authorization" ECHA (REACH) concentration
>0,1 % (w/w) (Relating: film + adhesive)
Lol. You really should recycle it bit by bit. Go through your dust collector bucket with tweezers. I wanna see the video of you sticking the tiny pieces back together on your next project. Seriously! This comment was a great reminder as to why I don't bother making RUclips videos .
Yeah. I take the bad with the good. Sometimes, I like a challenge
Maybe you going after the wrong person using the material. You should be going after the company that makes materials for $$$. I’m just saying
Man, in the time it took you to write your accusatory statement/question, you could have Googled it and found out the answers yourself, instead of ASSUMING.
Plus, as someone else wrote, you’re attacking the guy who is using the stuff. A better target would surely be the companies that make and sell the products that you assume are so damaging.
Thank you.
Happy to help. I use this stuff quite often and it's a huge time saver.