Your two cents is worth a lot, as I watched some of the others having trouble it was because they did not use a sealer on the surface and were using an up cut bit. I would give you two thumbs up if I could. Well done !
Thanks boss I really appreciate the video. I've had nothing but troubles with oramask so I'm hoping this one is the right fix for me! I appreciate you taking the time to make the video!
Auto Car Audio Sound Deadening Application Rolling Wheel Roller,Heat Abatement Mat Wallpaper PU Deadener Application Seam Roller www.amazon.com/dp/B07GVGTX2V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QKJ12YW4TCZ071PCZ2CC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the video, would have loved to see the paint and peel, but the edges look clean. I seen other videos of people using upcut bits and the edges would be frayed, it made me not even want to try this stuff but after watching your video I can see where they went wrong.
Very Good to Know about the upcut bits pulling it up. I’m waiting on my J roller, and came across this video. Also waiting on my bits to do a few signs. So initially I bought this stuff because I thought I could use it for diode laser engravings… but now I’m having my doubts about that and causing the masking to melt… maybe I could set my power to just score the boards and use it as part of the graphic and lettering transfer process when I have a stained or painted background idk any ideas on that?
Awesome! For the green and black Honda piece that's shown at the end, did you paint the wood surface with that lime green, then apply the oramask, then mill it, then paint the black area (with the oramask still in place on the green pieces) and then peal up the oramask? Im very interested in painting both the top surface and the area that is milled away, like you did with this black & green piece. Thanks for a great video!
Yep. I painted it green, did a thin coat of polycrylic over the paint. Then Applied oramask and carved it out. Once done I spray painted the carve black and removed the oramask.
Nice video and instructions. Thank you. I'm thinking about making a two-sided Christmas sign using two pieces of 1/2 MDF. My plan is to prime, paint with a coup;e of coats then hit it with a clear coat. Of course, 250 grit sanding after all coats. Then I will apply the Oramask. Does that sound like a proper procedure to avoid tear out of the Oramask? By the way, thanks for the tip on using a down-cut bit. That makes total sense. Thank you from Safford, AZ. Oh, one more question: because my project is wider than 12-inches, can I place the Oramask next to each other or overlap it? Thanks again.
Yep you got it right, and as far as overlapping…I do it all the time and have no issues. I use so much oramask I prolly go through a full roll a week when I’m busy. Just make sure you use a roller or something good to press it down to make it seat better and you’ll be fine.
I use same stuff for stencil when I paint on round signs. I use spray acrylic. Would that clear gloss u use work better to seal those with paint and vinyl??
I like it because it goes on fast and drys fast since it’s water base. Usually when I apply it, it dries within 10mins or less. I’ve used the spray also and I think they seal about the same “my opinion” but I love the drying time on the brush on.
Hey, when you put the Oramask on you don't need to take the backing off the entire sheet before applying (makes it tough when you're doing a 36" sign) - just peal back a couple of inches and let the backing curl under, apply the mask and then you can just run you fingers back and forth as the backing and mask separate...you won't get any bubbles at all. Once it's down and rolled out, use a razor blade on the excess on the edges...that way nothing is flapping around for the dust boot or anything else to catch on.
Quick question, I'm using oramask aswell and having issues with it not cutting as clean as yours. The carving is clean but get little "boogers" where the vinyl doesn't cut all the way. Any ideas?
I only use “downcut” bits when I’m cutting through the oramask. If your using a compression bit, or an upcut bit it will bur the edges.At least it does on mine.
I have used or a mask off and on with a down cut bit and I still have a lot of material fraying upwards. Just out of curiosity what feeds and speeds do you use on your 60° bit? I’m guessing my issue is related to the feeds and speeds so just curious. I car of a lot of hardwoods at 18,000 RPMs and anywhere from 80 to 100 ipm
I never have any glue left on it. I’ve learned if you apply the oramask, carve, paint, and remove as soon as possible you won’t have any. The only time I had an issue with the glue is when I left the oramask on the piece too long. Once I paint I usually put my piece under a fan to speed the drying process up.
I was in a toss up between the xcarve and the Shapeoko xxl. I ended up buying the Shapeoko because it’s a stronger machine, and you can run it without having an internet connection. They are priced about the same. Shapeoko has the best customer service I’ve ever dealt with also.
Like your video Popo and on Amazon the roller is called LUMITECO Bearings Equipped Automotive Car Audio Sound Deadening Application Wheel Roller, Heat Abatement Mat Wallpaper Application PU Smoothing Tool Seam Roller for only $8.59...Its a long name but a good idea on your part.. Thanks
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Your two cents is worth a lot, as I watched some of the others having trouble it was because they did not use a sealer on the surface and were using an up cut bit. I would give you two thumbs up if I could. Well done !
Thanks boss I really appreciate the video. I've had nothing but troubles with oramask so I'm hoping this one is the right fix for me! I appreciate you taking the time to make the video!
Auto Car Audio Sound Deadening Application Rolling Wheel Roller,Heat Abatement Mat Wallpaper PU Deadener Application Seam Roller www.amazon.com/dp/B07GVGTX2V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QKJ12YW4TCZ071PCZ2CC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the video, would have loved to see the paint and peel, but the edges look clean. I seen other videos of people using upcut bits and the edges would be frayed, it made me not even want to try this stuff but after watching your video I can see where they went wrong.
thank you for spending your time making this videos and sharing your knowledge
Thanks.. As someone totally knew to this area.. Very helpful! Looking forward to trying this now! Thanks!!
Great video with very good tips. Thank you!
Thanks for posting great video
Very Good to Know about the upcut bits pulling it up. I’m waiting on my J roller, and came across this video. Also waiting on my bits to do a few signs. So initially I bought this stuff because I thought I could use it for diode laser engravings… but now I’m having my doubts about that and causing the masking to melt… maybe I could set my power to just score the boards and use it as part of the graphic and lettering transfer process when I have a stained or painted background idk any ideas on that?
Awesome! For the green and black Honda piece that's shown at the end, did you paint the wood surface with that lime green, then apply the oramask, then mill it, then paint the black area (with the oramask still in place on the green pieces) and then peal up the oramask? Im very interested in painting both the top surface and the area that is milled away, like you did with this black & green piece. Thanks for a great video!
Yep. I painted it green, did a thin coat of polycrylic over the paint. Then Applied oramask and carved it out. Once done I spray painted the carve black and removed the oramask.
@@PoposWoodworks wow this is so awesome. It’s just the video I was looking for. Thanks a bunch!
Awesome. Thanks Jerry.
Nice video and instructions. Thank you. I'm thinking about making a two-sided Christmas sign using two pieces of 1/2 MDF. My plan is to prime, paint with a coup;e of coats then hit it with a clear coat. Of course, 250 grit sanding after all coats. Then I will apply the Oramask. Does that sound like a proper procedure to avoid tear out of the Oramask? By the way, thanks for the tip on using a down-cut bit. That makes total sense. Thank you from Safford, AZ. Oh, one more question: because my project is wider than 12-inches, can I place the Oramask next to each other or overlap it? Thanks again.
Yep you got it right, and as far as overlapping…I do it all the time and have no issues. I use so much oramask I prolly go through a full roll a week when I’m busy. Just make sure you use a roller or something good to press it down to make it seat better and you’ll be fine.
@@PoposWoodworks Thanks so much.
I use same stuff for stencil when I paint on round signs. I use spray acrylic. Would that clear gloss u use work better to seal those with paint and vinyl??
I like it because it goes on fast and drys fast since it’s water base. Usually when I apply it, it dries within 10mins or less. I’ve used the spray also and I think they seal about the same “my opinion” but I love the drying time on the brush on.
@@PoposWoodworks thanks I’ll try it and see how it does. Are you still working as popo lol
Great video! Just wondering, why do your signs on your door read backwards in the video?
I was using the front facing camera on my phone so it does mirror image. Good catch tho! Your the first to notice that lol
Hey, when you put the Oramask on you don't need to take the backing off the entire sheet before applying (makes it tough when you're doing a 36" sign) - just peal back a couple of inches and let the backing curl under, apply the mask and then you can just run you fingers back and forth as the backing and mask separate...you won't get any bubbles at all. Once it's down and rolled out, use a razor blade on the excess on the edges...that way nothing is flapping around for the dust boot or anything else to catch on.
Quick question, I'm using oramask aswell and having issues with it not cutting as clean as yours. The carving is clean but get little "boogers" where the vinyl doesn't cut all the way. Any ideas?
I only use “downcut” bits when I’m cutting through the oramask. If your using a compression bit, or an upcut bit it will bur the edges.At least it does on mine.
I have used or a mask off and on with a down cut bit and I still have a lot of material fraying upwards. Just out of curiosity what feeds and speeds do you use on your 60° bit? I’m guessing my issue is related to the feeds and speeds so just curious. I car of a lot of hardwoods at 18,000 RPMs and anywhere from 80 to 100 ipm
I usually run my V Bits around 60 ipm and router set on just under 3
Aren't most v-bits upcut?
what do you do to remove the glue resin from the finish product
I never have any glue left on it. I’ve learned if you apply the oramask, carve, paint, and remove as soon as possible you won’t have any. The only time I had an issue with the glue is when I left the oramask on the piece too long.
Once I paint I usually put my piece under a fan to speed the drying process up.
What product do you use sealer/pre-sealant?
Polycrylic by minwax
What speed are you using on this. Thanks
It was the carbide “factory setting” Best I can remember maybe around 45-55ipm
Great advice and informative. The patio heater in the shop worries me a bit.
What's a good cnc to get for wood?
I was in a toss up between the xcarve and the Shapeoko xxl. I ended up buying the Shapeoko because it’s a stronger machine, and you can run it without having an internet connection. They are priced about the same. Shapeoko has the best customer service I’ve ever dealt with also.
May I ask what your speeds on your bit was for the Polaris sign?
I used a 1/16 downcut endmill and ran the router on “3” and feed was what carbide already had set for the bit.
Like your video Popo and on Amazon the roller is called LUMITECO Bearings Equipped Automotive Car Audio Sound Deadening Application Wheel Roller, Heat Abatement Mat Wallpaper Application PU Smoothing Tool Seam Roller for only $8.59...Its a long name but a good idea on your part.. Thanks
Thank you for adding that
where can i find the file of the Side by side ??
That is cool
What bit are you using
It’s an amana 1/16 downcut endmill
You use 1/16 bit for clearing out the whole pocket? Used advanced v carve with 1/16 and then v bit?
Can you do a video of the bits you use please!!!! I was having that problem with the oramask lifting up...
Yeah, I’ll knock that out for you.