Hadn't thought of the clear coat before machining. Definitely see the benefits with the oramask and sanding after painting. I'm also a relatively new 1F owner so appreciate the content.
When I do lettering on surfaces with deep grain or feature, I heat the masking material and use a cloth or soft roller to push the mask into the grain. My experience is with sandblasting stone but it seems a good thing for wood too.
@@sparrowhawk009 as long as the masking material is designed to be removable, it gives no more residue. It just softens the material to help it take the shape of the grain
Thanks! I usually add another block ( horizontally) and then put my keyhole in that - but because I wanted a blank area to write a note- I just used 2 screws and some thin gauge copper picture hanger wire.
Thanks for you well documented sign making. May I suggest that it’s not a good idea to glue and screw the blocks on the back. Cross bonding wood does not allow for expansion and contraction of the sign. It could split the sign, I would suggest using slots on the screw hole with no glue this way the sign can breath and help it to stay flat.
You have some good tips there. But I have one of my own and you know what? It is very hard to find good instructions on RUclips explaining how to bevel an edge with a v-bit. Every one shows it but no one explains it very well!
Thanks for the tip. I tried using this Oramask the other day and it left a bunch of adhesive behind on my project - I think letting it get cold and hot with the seasons was a bad idea - stays inside now
@@SJSSawdust I get residue too if I leave it on too long , or put it in the sun trying to dry it.. So the cheap stuff and the expensive stuff both leave reisdue.
what does the 5% difference come down to? Does it not stick as well as the oramask? I'm looking to start multicolor CNC making and don't want to jump all the way to ora for a trial run of something that I may not like doing.
Since I put those stiffener pieces on the back, I couldn’t use my favorite method - adding a keyhole. So I used some copper wire and a couple of small screws and created a bracket between the stiffener pieces
You said a 60 deg v bit. Was there a roughing pass with any other bit or was the whole thing with a 60 degree v? I'm kinda new and need lots of tips. Thanks.
I would definitely suggest you run a file like this in 2 passes. A roughing pass with a 1/4” bit, and then a detail pass with the 60 degree v bit. The 1/4” will take out most of the material and you can most likely run it faster and then slow it down just a bit to use the v bit and get that great detail. I have a bunch of other videos on my channel where I show all kinds of techniques- check it out!
@@bigbear4x43 I’m sorry to hear that. Maybe it’s old? Or got real hot? Any of the Oramask I’ve used has come off very clean without any residue ( which is why it’s preferred) Try picking up a new roll
Hadn't thought of the clear coat before machining. Definitely see the benefits with the oramask and sanding after painting. I'm also a relatively new 1F owner so appreciate the content.
No problem. It’s such a learning experience- but I love it !
When I do lettering on surfaces with deep grain or feature, I heat the masking material and use a cloth or soft roller to push the mask into the grain. My experience is with sandblasting stone but it seems a good thing for wood too.
Great idea - makes sense that the material would seal better!
does this make removing the masking more difficult leaving more residue on the surface?
@@sparrowhawk009 as long as the masking material is designed to be removable, it gives no more residue. It just softens the material to help it take the shape of the grain
Very nice. I’ll try some of your tips on my next sign.
Let me know how it turns out!
Great work! I like the idea of adding blocks to the back
Thanks! This board had a slight bit of cupping so it solved that issue and added the nice shadow against the wall.
Nice job. Great idea to add the blocks to the back.
I love how it adds depth - gives the project another layer of interest
Wonderful looking project. I'm sure the couple will be thrilled to get this. Thanks for sharing the video.
They were! And thank YOU for watching!
Great tips. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I would like to know the name of the font you used.
@@DannyCarter-q2d thanks - I’m glad you found it helpful. The font is called Lavanderia
Looks really great! Nice work!
Thank you, I appreciate it! The newlyweds loved it!
Great stuff! Looking forward to the next videos!
Thanks. I’ve got a lot on horizon- check ‘em all out
Great ideas for my next sign. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
nice sign thanks for the tips
Thanks for watching! The LOVED the sign
Very nice, beautiful lots of technique
Thanks for watching- I was very pleased how well it turned out!
That's really helpful thanks
Thanks for watching!
Nice video and great tips. How is it hung on the wall?
Thanks! I usually add another block ( horizontally) and then put my keyhole in that - but because I wanted a blank area to write a note- I just used 2 screws and some thin gauge copper picture hanger wire.
Thanks for you well documented sign making. May I suggest that it’s not a good idea to glue and screw the blocks on the back. Cross bonding wood does not allow for expansion and contraction of the sign. It could split the sign, I would suggest using slots on the screw hole with no glue this way the sign can breath and help it to stay flat.
That’s a great idea - I’ve seen that method used on bread board ends on tables, never even thought about it for this application. Thanks!
Thanks for you reply. Slots are not easy to cut but with you Cnc machine it can work well. I look forward to watching more of your postings.
You have some good tips there. But I have one of my own and you know what? It is very hard to find good instructions on RUclips explaining how to bevel an edge with a v-bit. Every one shows it but no one explains it very well!
Thanks! Check this video- I break down the entire bevel process (that I use) ruclips.net/video/wQo1pSMW_GM/видео.html
@@SJSSawdust
Thanks! Bout damn time somebody did something helpful. I say that as a compliment and not as a demanding viewer.
I use the blue vinyl rolls from the dollar store.. works 95% as well as oramask at like a 10th the price
Thanks for the tip. I tried using this Oramask the other day and it left a bunch of adhesive behind on my project - I think letting it get cold and hot with the seasons was a bad idea - stays inside now
@@SJSSawdust I get residue too if I leave it on too long , or put it in the sun trying to dry it.. So the cheap stuff and the expensive stuff both leave reisdue.
what does the 5% difference come down to? Does it not stick as well as the oramask? I'm looking to start multicolor CNC making and don't want to jump all the way to ora for a trial run of something that I may not like doing.
Great video. Can I ask what you used to hang on the wall? Thank you!
Since I put those stiffener pieces on the back, I couldn’t use my favorite method - adding a keyhole. So I used some copper wire and a couple of small screws and created a bracket between the stiffener pieces
great job.👍
Thanks and thanks for watching!
great looking piece, where did you find the wedding bell vector art?
Thank you. It was in the Easel pro design library. They’ve got quite a large selection
You said a 60 deg v bit. Was there a roughing pass with any other bit or was the whole thing with a 60 degree v? I'm kinda new and need lots of tips. Thanks.
I would definitely suggest you run a file like this in 2 passes. A roughing pass with a 1/4” bit, and then a detail pass with the 60 degree v bit. The 1/4” will take out most of the material and you can most likely run it faster and then slow it down just a bit to use the v bit and get that great detail. I have a bunch of other videos on my channel where I show all kinds of techniques- check it out!
Will do. Thanks for the instruction.
Another good way to get rid of those little bits of Oramask is to use some duct tape and pat it over the trouble parts. It will pick it right up.
Great idea - thanks!
Nice sign, and a very good idea for a gift. Did you use the 60 degree v-bit for the lettering?
Thanks. Yep - you got it. The majority of the material is cleared away with a 1/4” end mill and the detail is created with the v bit
Did you use a 60v bit for lettering also?
Yes I did - I find that it leaves the best results
Will a 22° raised panel bit work in this?
Hmmm. I’m not sure. That’s seems like it would be a monster bit. Run some tests first
what font are you using? great video
Thanks! The font is Lavanderia
While I love what you did, what about all of those vertical milling marks?
Dang it - Did I forget to add those? Lol
what do you do with the gule thats left behind from the oramask
There is no adhesive left behind from the Oramask - it acts just like masking tape, clean removal
@@SJSSawdust I have sticky glue left behind on mine
@@bigbear4x43 Hmmmm…. that’s odd.
@@SJSSawdust i used it and it is very tackey
@@bigbear4x43 I’m sorry to hear that. Maybe it’s old? Or got real hot? Any of the Oramask I’ve used has come off very clean without any residue ( which is why it’s preferred) Try picking up a new roll
How depth is the carving of the letters?
I went down .2”- so just under a 1/4”
Which fonts did you use if you don't mind me asking?
I used Lavanderia and Alegreya
@@SJSSawdust Thank you for the info and the very quick response.
How long it it take to carve
@@mariomartinez5088 not too long - I’d say 45 minutes, but that could definitely change based on your machines recommended speeds and feeds