How to make post caps
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2018
- How to make post caps for fences and decks on the table saw.
This video shows you how to use the cross-cut guide and a sacrificial fence to make awesome post caps---they can also be used as "feet" for outdoor / pallet furniture and for other trim details. I used them on this raised garden, which I love.
Here's the raised garden blog - bit.ly/2wID0hb
Please let us know what you think in the comments below.
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Thanks for taking the time to post this. Love going to RUclips for ideas and finding videos that get to the point quickly like yours did.
Thank you for positively making my day. Keep up the good work. We post on the socials, too if you're on them. All our stuff--FB, IG, Twitter--is @myfixituplife
Very precise cut. Nicely done ✅
We try. Thank you.
Nice work. I have made them on my tenoning jig. Same results and probably a little safer. Be safe out there.
Honestly. I don't exactly know what a tenoning jig is. 100% safety. Glad to know there is another post cap maker out there.
Cool technique, you obviously don't need anymore safety critique. Finishing up a backyard fence rebuild; I'm short (4) 8" x 8" copper pyramid post tops. Nevermind finding them, difficult at best; but holy moo what they want for them.
Being the end of the job the ones that need tops are back around the corner nobody will get a chance to scrutinize. Copper colored paint and your idea to the rescue, of my project and my wallet.
Thank you, thank you!
You kind of remind me of J Mantzel. Ex-pat (Canadian) RUclipsr that has all kinds of projects going in Central America; solar powered boats, building a house, also a cathedral. If you haven't heard of him check him out; very interesting fella, takes you through his problem solving during projects.
Again thanks! 👍 ✌
Hey, thank you. Made my day. And, inventive way to solve your problem. I'll check out J
i came here, travelled all the way from Australia to find a solution to my barren top posts. I then realised my posts do not matter, its my outdoor furniture that really needs these post caps.
😀😀😀😀😀
Hi, just stumbled upon your video. I have a bunch of 2x10's left over I wonder if it will work with those?...
They absolutely will. Trim them to the size you need for the post you want a cap for and go to town. I like to use the table saw for that. As always, be careful.
Hey! Any chance you're in east Tennessee? I've got to make (4) 8" x 8"s L0L.
Looks like I'm headed to the lumber yard tomorrow... ✌
Crosscutting on a table saw needs to be done using a stop block or get rid of the fence. You don't need it for those anyway.
Some day, I swear, I'm going to make a crosscut jig.
Hey, safety concerns aside, great informative video. Who wants to pay $$ per post cap when you can customize your own! Dumb question from a newbie woodworker - what is the cast aluminum piece that you have screwed to your sacrificial fence? Trying to figure out what that is so I can find where to buy it. Gotta to protect those fingers. thanks!
Hey TD - Thank you! Yes, a cross-cut sled might be a better play here for safety. I appreciate your kind words nonetheless. I think what you're seeing is the stock fence on this table saw which was the ill-fated Bosch Reaxx (competitor to SawStop). Saw is long gone. Using the Skilsaw wormdrive now and I can tell you it's powerful and heavy.
Danger, danger, danger! NEVER use the miter gauge or your hand to move a piece of wood through the blade pushing on the left side of the blade with the wood against the fence. Yeah, it works but it's also a great way to accomplish kickback. That piece of wood to the right of the blade could jam and then the blade throws the whole darn thing at you at 100 miles an hour. It will hurt and it happens in a split second. Additionally, I see no riving knife on the table saw and the blade guard has been removed. Very unsafe.
Mike - I appreciate your comment. While I've never had a post cap kick back, I have had a piece or two javelin back at me and what you are saying NO JOKE. What I found with the pieces that did kick back was that my fence wasn't parallel to the blade. the piece pinched and--boom--back it came. -- In hindsight--heck I knew it while I was shooting this, but not enough to do anything about it--I should have made a cross-cut sled. -- Again, your comment is appreciated and respected. Keep the greasy side down.
There is a fence behind the pieces. There will be no kickback.
It goes without saying that you could be called stumpy nubs 2 for the risk of having you hand pulled into the blade despite you thinking you were far enough away. The actual end product was good. Get some Ready Seal stain & preservative next time you make pallet furniture so it doesn’t go to hell like the stuff shown.
I've probably cut 50-post caps like this. Push sticks and hands on the fence. - As for pallet furniture, that was a thing, but I'm pretty sure my days of pallet work are over. Good tip, though.
All kind of things wrong with the way you’re setting up the cuts. Makes for a dangerous tutorial if someone unfamiliar with tablesaws does it like you’ve shown.
I do and don't disagree. This is an advanced table saw technique. On the other hand, it shows someone who doesn't know table saws what's at stake, right? Thank you.
I really hope no one uses this method it’s not safe. I’d rather buy theses thank risk injury.
All engagement with power tool is inherently risky. I take precautions and have years of experience doing this. I'd never publish something I thought would get people hurt. At the same time, I acknowledge that there is a safer way to do this and say so in the video. The point is to be as careful as you know how. And learn ways to get better.
Hard to watch, I was waiting for fingers to go flying. At least use clamps!
Yeah, I know. And I hear you. I have, albeit subtle, muscle memory rules to keep my digits out of harm's way. I appreciate your comment and others should take heed, as will I.
Lots of criticism! Cabinet maker for 35+ years.. I've done much worse than that.. jobs gotta get done.. we just know the risks and are very careful.. well done sir!!!
Thank you for your gentlemanly-ness. Things have to get done. 3500 rip ems are how they get that way. Keep the greasy side up, sir.
Never use your fence as a stop block. Instead clamp a piece of scrap to your fence in front of the blade to act as your stop so the piece can't bind between the blade and the fence.
I think I get what you're saying, but I'm not sure. - I'm not using the fence as anything other than the fence. Binding happens, in my experience, if the fence and blade aren't parallel. - And that could very much happen here--it didn't--using a miter gauge not cinched tight. - Comment appreciated.
@@myfixituplife in a nutshell.. when you were making your repeated crosscuts to get your caps cut to length there was a pinch hazard. clamp a small piece of scrap to the fence in front of the blade, it acts as a spacer, so once you start making the cut there is no chance for your workpiece to pinch itself between the blade and fence causing a catastrophic kickback. This operation in your video is a very risky cut. Yes your blade absolutely needs to be parallel to the miter slot but that's a separate topic. I'd highly encourage you to watch some stumpy nubs, he has a plethora of videos on table saw safety.
@@myfixituplifeEven if your fence is parallel to the blade, the part that you are cutting off can change shape as you are cutting it due to the release of internal tensions in the wood. Also, as the cut is completed, the nub that you cut off can twist and jam.
Once it jams from wood movement or from twisting, the momentum of the blade doesn’t stop, and clears the jam all at once. Then the cutoff becomes a projectile.
If you’re going to make miter cuts against the grain, you’re best off making a sled and building a jig to hold everything.
@@TheEffoff I don’t disagree. I work in softwoods. - Hardwoods are different, bit the principles are the same. Fence square to blade chief among them.
I can’t believe you’ve kept this up. It’s a lawsuit waiting to happen. Make a vertical panel jig and say everyone’s fingers. You’re going to get a new person maimed. Jesus
A vertical panel jig is a good idea. Last time I checked, I wasn't forcing anybody to do anything. I have a healthy respect for 3500-rpm. I know what it's capable of and that steel doesn't distinguish between wood and people.
@@myfixituplife next time you post a “how to” video maybe you should think about what could happen if someone took your advise.
@@johnvogler5335 I've posted hundreds of videos, written thousands of articles and blogs. I get that you don't like this--and if I get that it can be done more safely; what I'm doing is not reckless, but it could be safer for sure--what makes you think I haven't considered the well being of who consumes my content?
GOD forbid some Noob sees this and tries this on a table saw...you are going to get someone killed if not yourself. If you keep this video up...you should turn it into WHAT NOT TO DO...and make it a safety video lesson. They really should require disclaimers on videos with such blatant disregard. You might not care or worry about your own safety...but as a content creator you should consider the people who watch this and try to imitate it.
I appreciate your insight. Using the miter gauge proves tricky for this. cross-cut sled would probably be the safest option. I care very much for my safety, however.
I was going to comment myself but you and others have said it already, thank you! I cringed watching this video, it’s dangerous and should not be posted, especially for new and inexperienced woodworkers as a how- to video!
All that skill and u built that ugly pallet furniture? Take it apart and make it look pretty
I appreciate the accolade. At the same time, we try things. Yeah, the pallet phase has passed (thank you!) but even today, I try new things on every deck I build. I try to refine wasted motion, pack in quality and customer service into an everything-is-a-prototype business model. AND record it as I go. Bumps, meet Road.